ULTIMATE ARROW BUILD | Lancaster Unboxing Easton Superdrive 19

Hello everyone, welcome back to another video. Today, in my opinion, we are making an incredible video because many of you have already done it from start to finish, as I like to do it and what better way than to combine it with an

unboxing

of Lancaster. They sent me something in this box and I know what it is, but I've never exactly messed with this before, so today is going to be very interesting and will probably carry it into tomorrow a little bit, but let's go ahead and open this up. Look, well, I guess you already have an idea of ​​what's in this box.

I mean, there's only one way it can really be a bunch of plastic bags. Just kidding, they're not plastic bags. These are the new type SuperDrive 19. of an interesting diameter, closer to a fighter type diameter, but what I really think I'm going to try to do with these is 3, so we have a new dozen, it would be SuperDrive 19 and in fact we get some hits and then we also have 90 drain tips, so we've got the hits, we've got the tips, it's pretty much ready to go for fun, so I'm just going to base it on this or how I'm going to cut these zeros first.

I guess what I should say is my X tens. They're already set up pretty decently lengthwise, go to how I'm going to want them, so I'm actually just going to add a little bit of length on the X 10 and then cut them as kind of a rule of thumb. I'm going to want just a little bit of room and this is very general, just a little bit of room to get over the riser when you're maxed out. I'll run the riser in front of the rest, that's always a general rule depending on the spine and everything on the amount of weight you have on the front of your

arrow

, so it depends a little more on the type of links you have.

Hello, so we have everything cut out now and what we have to do now is and I forgot. I mention that you can look at the label and determine which side it is cut on, it usually doesn't always depend on what I like. If you want to check each shaft and determine which part or which side is the straightest, try cutting more of the non-straight side, but I'm not going to go into that, so the label is closer to this side, so this will be the side of the nock, so you cut the tip side and this applies to parallel shafts, when there is no type of barrel or something where this shaft is one hundred percent parallel, so we cut the tip side , but now you know that the saw made me something that might not be 100 percent straight on this edge, so what we want is 100 percent contact all the way around. when that bit goes in there, so I have this little squaring tool, it's not really the tool I would like to use.

The tool I want to use is like a g5 squaring tool. I don't have one of them, so I have this little sandpaper. What Easton sends with most

arrow

s is fine so now we have the arrows cut level so now I assume you attached the machine and the broadhead which I didn't mention before, I got ferrules so it shows how to install them as well. I guess it's the hardware that puts all the hardware on and we need a torch some glue and some pliers unless you like burning your fingers then I guess you can use your fingers if you want like I already said these are points greens Easton SuperDrive 1990. so let's go ahead and use these, the type of glue that I like to use for this is called hot melt.

I think it's boning glue. I'm pretty sure I'm not 100% boning that, but I've used it for a long time I really liked it for the tips and stuff and then the ferrules I was actually going to use the same glue for the ferrule. You want to put a lot into this, just a little bit and we'll go over some tips and tricks for putting these bad guys on. guys on Oh, so the first thing we're going to do is place this portion on a plate, so when I do this I like to think of it as fancy, you don't want anything to get too hot, you don't want to be too aggressive because these You know what?

Are the tips quite delicate? You want to put a bunch of stuff on them with the pliers or burn your hands or burn the carburetor and chop the carbon, so it's like being picky about it, so the best way I have what you like to do is find the hit on the end. of the tip, put the punch end under your armpit and this is actually a George Ryles tip, but you never want to heat the tip any more than it would burn you if you held it. If you really don't want this to get too hot, then one option would be yes, go ahead and take the pliers, hold it and the Eastham pliers actually have these cool little slots that you can put the tip in, but you can hold it. your deal with fire and everything, but for me I'm just not going to do that, so with this hot melt you're supposed to heat the hot melt first and all you're doing is melting it a little bit and then you put it on the tip like this, so you're melting it by putting it on the tip melting it by putting it on the tip is important, you know, don't put a ton on it because it's all going to be squeezed out, but Put on a little bit, so something like that, so what you want to do is reheat it and I have my arrow in the damage pool ready to go, it will always be here so when I'm ready to grab it.

I just grab it, warm it up a little more. I can go ahead and when you put it on I always like to turn it, turn it and put it like this, yeah, all the way in, push it on the table, take your finger because it never gets hot enough to burn your finger, turn it just like that and I have a piece of glue, your tips are ready to rock and roll and then actually what I like to do is have a water bottle that says cool tips. and I like to take the tips, put them in the water creates I don't know if it's like a chemical reaction that rapid cooling makes it harder to dry or something, but I heard someone say that that happens, but anyway, there you are . wow that's a super super clean tip like that okay so I have all 12 tips installed ready to shoot so now I'm going to show you how to put them in the case.

It's going to be pretty much the exact same way except we're going to use a very very small amount of glue, you don't really need a lot of glue here because all you're doing is hitting, there's really no stress like shooting at a target and then trying to hit it. . to take it out, so I'm going to do the same thing, I'm just going to put a little bit on it and this is also important so that you don't damage it, if you use pliers, don't damage this bushing, booyah. I have one that won't damage this bushing because you don't want to bend it.

You don't want there to be anything wrong with this because it's a very important part. There you push it like this, so I'm going to go ahead and put these. 12 inches and they will move on to the next step. We are one step closer to completing a dozen barrels. We have all the bushings installed nice and pretty. We've got all the tips installed nice and nice, so now what we need to do. It's just that we have to get all the Noxon out quite easily. One thing I always try to do is line up this logo exactly the same every time, so if I put this super booster 25 up, if I were to hit it on the bow, I try to do that.

I don't put the same thing as a Quay every time, so, for example, if I were to put the nock, if you notice, I think this is in all manufacturers, but at least in Easton there is a little dimple on the side, just there. I can see how one side is different from the other. I always try to put it in the same place as X. I would also say let's place the arrow like this. I won't quite put it in yet, but here and there is what the label looks like, we're going to try to imitate that exact address, you know, every time and I just broke my own rule, never do what I just did, hit that sucks , that's why Easton spends everything. that money and send these bump tools so use the bump tool put it on and then push it that way all the bumps are ready to rock and all that for the blushing Jake for these actually I'm going to use a main boned jacket of these are my special edition be real and if you want to get these veins they are available at Buell Merch don't worry so I have some white and yellow ones and some new colors as soon as right now I have white and yellow so let's go to put them.

I'm using the last archery chance they master. Pro really liked the adjustability and precision of this, so let's go ahead and remove these sample jigs, so how you use it, because it's different than other fletching jigs, you have the error. bracket right here, so you put it on and you put tension on it, you slide it down and then this is where the nock is that you know, you turn it and stuff, so you want to make sure it hits something or clicks. something, then you put the blow on a little tab to the right and then this is the actual part where the fletching is done, there are two little pieces of wire and the amazing thing about this is that the propeller is super adjustable, you have z' left and right helicals in different degrees. so you can go ahead and change it any way you want right now.

I'm running a three degree right helix, that's what I use a lot of my stuff on. I don't like to go too crazy three degrees 2 degrees straight in is pretty good for me so go ahead and grab your vein there's a little red mark right there and what I do with that is I put the vein in and then I line up that red mark with this edge, so each time I just line up Solo with that and there you have it, the vein ready to rock onto the fletching template. There are all kinds of glues out there.

I normally use boning glue but I'm out of it so I actually have this electronic super glue that works great. Actually, and you know, if I'm going to be honest, most super glue is pretty much the same, so I like to put a little bit of glue on them because I don't like things coming off, but it doesn't get too much. and you don't want to put too little in because you don't want air pockets and stuff, all you want to do is have that whole little ridge fill that whole ridge and you take the edge of your bottle and you just smooth it out so there are no air pockets. , there's nothing, there's no bubbles, because if the air gets underneath, that's going to allow it to slide up and separate more easily, so now what you do, you have your fletching and then this little template here, put it on and with both hands.

It is important for the hands and you should also make sure the end of your arrow has this kappa. I keep everything nice and comfortable, so two hands, two hands, it's super important, you hold it like this, you hold it all the way down and then I like to put pressure against the shaft against the shaft and press to get a more comfortable fit. . All I do is hold it there for five seconds, six seconds or so, so my camera overheated, so I had to let it sit for like just a little while, but I have a pair of feathered antennas and I completely forgot a very important step.

Importantly before you can start feathering, what I recommend and what we should do is rub the entire area of ​​the shaft that you are going to feather with alcohol. denatured alcohol or somewhere or some kind of arrow cleaning wipe, so there are a couple on the market, but I totally forgot about it, make sure you do that. I go to manipulate them and it's like 11 p.m. right now, so we're going to pick up this video tomorrow morning, shoot it through the bow and see how well these arrows fly, it's been a couple of days since the weather has been so bad that it's still very windy, it's very cold, there should definitely be more than this. sweatshirt on, but I have to get out here because we have to test these arrows a little.

SuperDrive 19. I've got six of them ready and now we're back to 55 yards, let's see how they shoot, hopefully not. Don't miss this one first. I've estimated how I feel they should fly, which are actually a bit lighter than a x10, at least how am I set up X tens? Yeah, let's see how they do it really fast down there. However, let's look at it, so I already said this, but the SuperDrive 19 is designed to be a 3D type shaft, it could be an inside shaft as well because it has a little bit larger diameter, but like a field.

The round archery setup or some kind of feet around setup isn't going to be like your arrow of choice just because it's a little lighter and larger diameter, like you can tell the wind is affecting it because it's a little windy right now. . It's affecting him a little, but there's plenty of anger down there from the six I shot. I move my view around and this was the first shot, the second shot, so it's not too bad. I'm very impressed with how they shot at least for the first time. so let's go ahead and film again.

I'll give it a couple more clicks and that could just be the wind. I'm not 100% sure, so it's not very windy right now, but when it gets really cold in Michigan, it's still April to early April. I'm not sure exactly, but turkey season is very early, but I'll shoot one more time and then freeze anyway. I'm going in, so I don't want any arrows to come out, so there's only five left, so I'm going to photograph these five and see how it works. They are five. Let's see them. It's a pretty decent group. The wind definitely picked up that time though, but I think I kept them all there again.

I am very happy with this group two. 9 just nine, but for thehow windy it is now and how cold it is, I'm very happy with how the shooting SuperDrive 19 is definitely a good candidate for a 3D arrow, an inside arrow, kind of an all-around arrow if you will. Makes for a pretty decent one at shooting some targets, so definitely don't look too hard at the SuperDrive 19. Be sure to check out Lancaster Archery Communications. They have pretty much every arrow on the market and I know they're still trying to be up and running as much as possible with everything that's going on right now, so now is a good time to mess with their stuff, pick up some new mail, try to make them yourselves. themselves, so I hope you really enjoyed this video, this extensive review and

build

. anyway Lancaster Archery, be sure to check them out, be sure to check out the bearish calm and I'm freezing.

I'm going to come in because you guys next time.