The perfect hunting arrow setup

what's going on everyone, welcome to today's video and today what we're going to do is go over what my

arrow

configuration will be for this year and we're going to fully develop it following the steps of previous years. I've switched between four millimeters and five millimeters, uh, mainly because of the illuminated bumps. I really like the illuminated bumps. I run these Nocturnals, not the universal fit, oh, these Xs here. I run these nighttime These are the Victory 300 Spine V1 TKOs, so thousands of straightness. 300 loin, these tkos are incredibly strong. I've been shooting them for like three years.

I can't say enough about how strong they are. Actually, it's scary. I have shot so many things and the

arrow

does not break. I may have to bend the insert or you know. the point bends but you take them off and the carbon doesn't break, it's incredibly strong and relatively light so you can get a really good Arrow

setup

from these good shots. I don't want to sell them. I'm not trying to sell them. This is what I use, but it's because I've shot a lot of stuff and I keep landing back on these, but I'm going to hit the rip tkos so that the five millimeters of the rip are the five millimeters of the VAP. the four millimeters.

I'm going to try the cuts only throughout this year. I'm going to use a 50 grain insert in the front just because you don't need a lot of weight. Eight and then I'm going to be running be real Arrow wraps boning and then what I'm going to run is this is something new, this is the black sky vein boning the be real edition, so it's actually an x ​​vein made of its thermal material, so it is rigid. a stiffer vein. I've been photographing them trying them out and I actually really like them, they're a little bit stiffer, you know, they're not as loud, I think because they're a little stiffer, they hold their shape. factor a little bit better, you also know they say that it's the stiffer veins that open up the wound channels a little bit, so a couple of good things about a stiffer vein in general and we have that here in this black sky there is a real vein, so These are available now on the website if you're interested in getting them and it's like the X-bane cut, so what we're going to do is build this one from start to finish for you guys, every time. from cutting to Fletching and all that jazz so I have God I think I left it in the same configuration let's roll the dice because my others support reading a bow case so I have this uh D cut Arrow seen by Lancaster Archery Supply.

I did this a long time ago as an unboxing and it's still kicking. It is a fantastic saw. There's nothing wrong. It has been great. I went through a couple of blades because I was reckless and broke them, but other than that. It's cool, there's a pedal that goes down right here, so you can press that pedal to always keep it set, and if you have a tight space, it actually collapses a little bit so you can mark different spots. It is micro-adjustable. I'm not trying to sell this again, it's just a good saw, if you want to look it up, it's the D cut aerosaw, okay, so we're going to put a bump here on the right side and then we're going to move it slightly. move this forward and turn, that's all you're going to do, move it forward until it cuts off and then you're going to turn all the way.

I did a little bit more, you saw, I cut, I turned until it was completely cut and then I just turned a little more and in case there were little burrs or something I didn't see there was, but you should always check that this is the G5 ASD flip but it's an arrow Square oh Nice ASD Arrow Squaring Device Arrow squaring device, it's like this little diamond cut sandpaper here, really sturdy, you can mount it on a desk, which I should mount it on, but what you do is to place it here and add a little bit of downward pressure on your Spin. and this is essentially squaring up the arrow, making sure it's nice and square at a 90 degree angle so that your insert is flush with there and this really isn't a question of precision because your point will always be straight based on the inside. of your arrow because it's a cylinder that rubs along it, it's not based on how it sits on the actual ledge itself, but it will be stronger if you have a nice even contact there, it will be a lot stronger and it will prevent cracks or something like so, so if you make all your arrows, just go ahead and rub them and then what I like to do is just bounce them, rub them and that's it.

I actually don't like cleaning the inside of my arrows. Wise Jesse brought water in once and told me that he actually prefers a little charcoal dust to act as an additional adhesive to stick to the charcoal. I don't know if that's true. I don't know if it's fairy dust. but since he told me he hadn't and I feel like there hasn't really been a change one way or another in my point of staying, so I don't know, it could be a fairy tale thing, so the next thing I do is I'm going to make and I like to make this in batches of like a dozen or six so I'll cut them all out until I'm done and then I'll do them with Arrow Square until I'm done and then I'll do wrappers and stuff, but we'll just go over this with an arrow to show you my process, but I usually make a full dozen, one at a time, and you don't want to do that.

Don't you really want to make a single like what I'm doing? But I'm going to finish these, but a single to say you broke an arrow and kind of like, oh, I'll just like to do one. I can do that, but it kind of allows the opportunity for errors, flaws, or variations. I like to do them all in batches because you never know if you actually change your arrows or change your Fletching jig or you just never know, so these are our b. -reel Arrow wraps uh when boning, they're actually underrated, something that boning does that makes all of their stuff very sticky.

Some companies actually their Arrow wraps have a different coating and it kind of creates a weird adhesion so something like magic pixie dust they do on their Arrow wraps or I've never had a problem and if I get something coming off it's because the whole wrapper ripped off on the Fletching it ripped off like you were stealing an arrow and it bounces off or does something weird, amazing adhesion with these wraps and I love them. What you're going to do to install these wraps is actually have this little foam board, it's actually the bottom of my husky crate.

I pulled it out because I was trying to find something I don't really like, using a mouse pad because it's not big enough, but the bottom of this husky pad is super wide so it fits really well. You can see there is an extra one. The gap spacing on this top side is to allow the four millimeter, five millimeter, and six millimeter arrows to work with a single wrap, so what we're going to do is place that thicker side toward you, so it wraps around it. Whether you have a four, five, or six millimeter arrow, it will work, but we only allow that little space in the logo, so you're going to put that side facing you, you're going to place it now that I've touched it. it's glued to my finger so we have the b-reel logos which are here and the thicker side is on the bottom.

Let's do. I'm going to turn this light down more. Really good light is really nice while I'm doing this, so I'm going to line this up and then you apply even pressure to start rolling and then once you get to this side, I like to just swipe once with my finger to make sure that's nice and applied, then you're going to do that and then I just like to roll it a couple of times and then check your work, make sure that you're good and ready to go, so now, um, notice that I didn't do any work of preparation on that Arrow as if you could clean it. with denatured alcohol, but these are new arrows, there's really no need to do that if you want to re-inflate some arrows to get them all off, you can wipe them down with a paper towel and a little bit of denatured alcohol just to get a little more. things, but these wrappers stick very, very well, they're not as sensitive as a vein would be, so for these, what I'm going to do is flex them with the last chance of a Master Pro. go back and forth between bits and burger and a Vein Master Pro.

I didn't use this one for a while because it was much easier to use hamburger bits, but I noticed some slight inconsistencies in the bits and hamburger. um, there would be like two fletchings a little bit closer to one and a couple of times I thought, ah, maybe it was me who didn't quite click on it and I think, honestly, I might have a problem. I think this unit might have a problem. So I'll do it, but I'm not attacking or anything. I think I just want to give the unit some love or, um, let's put a unit together, but I have this Fame Master Pro, so I thought, you know what I am?

I'm just going to switch and use this this year for my Hot Narrows, so how this works is, uh, you've got this little device right here that you're going to put the arrow on, twist it, and then you're going to clip it on. the shot right there and you always want to make sure it's a clicking motion, then you have this arrow stopper that essentially always makes sure that there's tension against the shot, which is really nice that you don't accidentally move the arrow. with it like this or something and then this is the actual clamp for the clamp to come out of, it has left and right helicals that are actually very nice and they are labeled correctly and I have it set to two degrees to the left and then these two connectors of cables actually twist it so you can have

perfect

adhesion on the wrap, which is pretty cool, couple of cool features, one last chance and you can do four flats, you can do three Fletch, what I'm really going to do this year is a three fudge, so I'm going to do a triple color and I'm not worried at all because the X vein cut into these black Skies is a thicker material, it's a little bit bigger vein.

I have a two degree helical. They have been absolutely fine, but they have already been testing. them and shoot them and they do it very well, they direct, they direct very, very well if I was running like a heat vein or something, I definitely want to run a Forward Fletch, especially if you're running fixed or shooting longer distances or something, but We are absolutely fine with this, okay, I guess I already missed a step, but I was lucky with the wins. Here's the column aligned, Mark, and what's pretty close with some testing I've done sometimes, is correct.

Sometimes it's wrong, but it's actually a peace of mind, it makes sure the spine is in the same place on the arrow so that when you shoot you have the same reaction every time and it doesn't come out one way or another. The arrow what I like to do is have the fold of the arrow wrap the line with the spinal line, so I was lucky. I completely forgot this step because I'm filming and I'm not paying attention, but it's lined up. Now what we are going to do is rotate the arrow. I'm going to hold the punch in place.

I'm going to rotate the arrow until that wrap line at that spinal line mark is where my Fletching is going to go. Come on, so I'm going to Fletch essentially my top Fletching over the seal line of the wrapper just for better adhesion just to make sure it doesn't accidentally wrinkle or something and that I shoot every time I shoot in theory. The spine will be in the same place every time you have the same reaction, okay, so let's put one of these. What I like to do on these is there's a little black line right there, so I'm going to make sure that every Once I get Fletching all the way there, then you want to make sure that your Fletching is all the way down.

Another thing I love about boning veins is that they don't really require any um, uh, what are they? They are called initial primer pens, they don't require primer pens, I don't know what they have, but I don't have to clean anything, I don't have to do anything, I literally just use their glue, put it on and To be honest, I don't drop anything . I hate primer pens, to be honest, okay, so we've got this glue here and we're just going to do a couple of dots all the way down. The most important thing here is to make sure there are no air pockets.

The pockets are what allows the vein to get a little bit of water or air in there or whatever and start to peel or allow that rupture to start so good light is really important now just look up and down to Make sure you don't have air pockets in there. always check that your Jig is in place, nothing worse than Fletching when you click when your jig is not in place and then this last chance you come in here and slide until it stays like this and then what I like . What I have to do is grab it and push it a little bit more just to make sure it's 100%.

I like to hold it for just a couple of seconds, you don't need much and then you turn it around and we have a

perfect

you can. See, that's right on top of the seam there and there, so we put our top Fletch right on top of that seam and the spine lined up and we're ready to go okay, so we'll do the next one, just do the exact same thing. Shooting arrows is very repetitive. I'm always wrong with moreglue than with less glue. I don't care if my arrow is a little dirty and I just clean it compared to not having enough glue, having a bunch of air pockets and potentially falling off, but that's just me, I'd rather sacrifice some looks. nice, so you know the actual functionality, okay, we have a feathered arrow and what I'm going to do now on a sheet of paper, this paper here, always keep a paper towel on the cover.

I'm just going to take my index finger and some paper. towel and just rub and there's a little bit of excess glue left and we have a perfectly developed arrow and another final little step that I'm going to do is put a little bit of glue on each point of this Fletching and what it does is it helps the vein obviously stay in place, but these are like the biggest friction points, like if it passes through a target or does something strange, it just helps it not come unstuck or fall behind. It's New Black Sky Veins, uh, they're on b-rollmerch.com now and this is what I'm posting this year, so it'll be cool.

Next time we have our insert, not now. I know if it's because I'm lazy or what, but all I do now is glue them together because I know this is my arrow configuration. I'm not going to change anything and if I end up bending or breaking this Arrow, it's most likely going to be Toast You Can Make a type of glue that melts quickly. I think it's actually an oriental glue. You can make a Hot Melt. This is a giant Hot Melt bar, but if you're trying to make something more permanent, I wouldn't recommend it. this blue melts because it's super like it melts over low heat, but if you do it like uh target points are good or maybe an arrow where you're going to be a little flexible and maybe change things in and out like inserts or something like that. so, I'm just going to super glue this bad boy because they're stained, that's all I need to do, so I'm just going to put some super glue on, you can also use like, uh, there's this black glue, this, uh, forget what it is.

It's called, but it's also really good, any kind of epoxy or whatever, it's going to be absolutely fine, so press it down, clean it up a little bit more and then what I'm going to do here just for a second is let it sit. stand up and while I make them all I'll just stand them upright so they just stick with glue, harden and don't slowly come off due to air pressure or something so I usually have my dozen stand them all up. and then when you're done with the last one, the first one will be up and ready to do whatever needs to be done, so let's take a tip real quick.

I go over these final specs, are they actually new or Not new, but these are the little deciding points. I've never used them before, but they've appealed to me and they're actually fantastic, good little field tips, but let's screw this up to see if that's the case. It's already dry, that super glue dries so fast that we're going to get a final arrow weight here, so we're down to 429 grains, which is absolutely fantastic. I love a 420 to 450 arrow if I land right there. I love this. 't Ranch ferry around here we like arrows that go fast and go through things and I like short sight tapes.

I like a lot of forgiveness from yards to yards, so I don't have to move my side as much if I go from 30 to 40, you know, I'm not going to have to move it much, so this is my aero

setup

which or not, it's not a VAP, a TKO by Victory 429 grains, three Fletch with the New Black Sky, I know real lanes and I go. To run this all season long and what I'll probably do, but I haven't done it yet, is give light hits to all of these and I might gain, you know, eight ounces or something like that, so we'll be sitting there, you know?

Eight to ten ounces more right there, so another little bit of extra weight added, but this can kill everything in North America with 75 pounds, let's do this, let's shoot through the Chrono real quick, okay, so let's shoot this through the crown. very fast just to show you this weighs 75 pounds so we'll see where we are here 300 feet per second it will absolutely go through anything. I shot my moves with a very similar setup, just four millimeters and, yes, everything underneath. the sun will be absolutely fine come through your town with this bad boy so I hope you enjoyed this Aero build which is what I'm going to photograph this year and our Target is very quirky see you guys.

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