Making Match Grade Arrow with MFJJ

Would you like to learn how to make a nice

match

ing game? Arrow grid. I'll show you. Hello and welcome back to the YouTube channel. I'm fjj here with podiumarcher.com building me a dozen antelope

arrow

s. I'm using an Extreme Velocity 350 rip. Yes, I know this is a very light

arrow

and I'm probably very irresponsible, but Antelope is very easy and doesn't require much penetration to achieve it, so I'm using the lightest I can and it's kind of trying to prove that you can actually kill things with very light things, but I like to make my arrows weigh the same and work the same, so I thought I'd follow my process with you so you can see how it works.

First of all, I'm shooting illuminated punches. I'm going to shoot these halos that are super easy to operate, very good retention on the string and a good stroke fit, so I'm going to put them here before I cut my arrows down. I'm going to go ahead and install Nox on all of them, so We'll start with that. Now these are already weight axles, so I don't need to weigh each axle because inside the package they should all weigh. inside a pimple I'm not going to use the original insert that's in these so try to get them to fall into the package there we go so let's get all these punches out that's the only thing I didn't grab. a new pair of pliers, put them in my mouth and take them out, we're going good, so we'll take them out and if you're careful taking them out, you could reuse them for something else, but if you refund them, you'll probably want to just throw them away, but if you're nice, you'll be able to reuse them at a later date, so that's 12.

We need to open these bugs and install them. They come with these little covers here for different sizes. of arrows, but I'm not using different sizes of arrows, so I just have to put them in a standard one. There's a little bump on one side and I'm going to line it up with the spine alignment marked when I put it right there. Let's push down on the counter, so be careful when you do it, if you push too hard you can bend the ears when you hit it and mess it up, so now I'm going to do this 12 times the indentation of the last line, there it goes, okay, in the end. one and then Forest asked me how they worked because I hadn't actually seen it so I'm going to show you so this strike turns on you seat it all the way and it turns on when the string is released and then there's a little button. on the side if you can see I'm spinning it differently so you can try to see the little notch there all you have to do is hold it down put it back on your string take it off and let go that's how you spin them .

They're pretty good, so I have a sample of Arrow in there. I love my previous version. This is what we are trying to duplicate. This is a DCA super saber 2.0. They just came out with these. I have fired them with some mechanics. broadheads so far and they're actually very stable so I'm going to go ahead and try hunting with these and I'll try them with a fixed blade coming up and see if it stabilizes the fixed blade but it definitely seems to stabilize the mechanics and they weigh six grains each one, so they are relatively light and since I'm putting a light bump on the rear, I'm trying to save as much weight as I can here, but this is the length we're trying to double, so instead of going to a saw , let me grab a silver Sharpie.

I like to just draw on it instead of trying to put one on the saw and the other on the saw. I really prefer to touch the ground evenly and draw. a line and then I always try to draw that line to where, if I take that line all the way, it runs that distance, so I'm going to go ahead and set this up and trim one and then check it and then if it's okay, I'll trim the rest of them, that looks pretty close, make sure it's seated well, it looks good, let's try one. Oh now, when you're cutting arrows and I've said this many times, you always turn towards the blade to turn your arrow in this direction, turn it slowly and very lightly, don't just stick it into the blade and turn it like let it cut both outer layers of the arrow until it comes all the way in, we'll make a straighter cut and then you don't have to use as much squaring device to straighten the end, so it was like three or four rotations to cut it and these are very thin walls, so There's not a lot of material there, let's see how this looks for a weird length that looks exact, so let's go ahead and cut the rest off, then I'm happy with that.

I'm going to lose a little bit when I square them anyway, so let's do it, thanks, let's try it. to bounce them on the counter like that and get the dust off at the end now we're going to square them up nicely. I need to give all of these a nice square now all you're doing is trying to make sure the edge of this thing is straight and that's all that really needs to be done it doesn't take much just a little roll if you made a good cut If you make a real irregular cut it will take a lot but if you cut them like I showed you on the saw, they will make this nice straight cut, it will be super easy.

We're going to link all the tools that we use in these videos in the description below, so if there's a tool that you saw that I said, hey, yeah, that's going to be great for me, there will be a link to the website, this also ensures that you get a good Square Edge, so when you put on a Broadhead it usually goes very straight, as long as we're buying a good Broadhead, so now that we have it, we're going to use these true helical jigs, love them or hate them, they work great to give a lot of spin to a Fletch and that's what we're going to do. to use with these These are the new DCA 2.0 we like to use a primer pen on them.

We've had better luck with them sticking in general. They come with alcohol wipes, so you can use those if you want, but the primer. pan is really easy to use, very easy, we have already oriented our hit receivers so that everything lines up with our spine alignments. We should be able to make them very quickly, very easily and all we did was orient this little mark here with the indentation here. and then rotate that to where that vein is going to line up with that so that it lines up with the spinal line mark, you can argue that that's wrong and it's different where they are, but for today's purposes we're just going to line them up with that. , so all I do is clean the base of the vein with the primer pencil.

I make sure the primer pen is wet. If it doesn't have liquid, it doesn't clean anything. I think this just removes the film from under the extrusion. where they come from, then put a little glue on each one and I like to move it with the tip. Some people like to use a Q-tip, that's up to you after you put glue on all three make sure you push them in. Go back down to where they're all the way down and sitting there you go, so they're even, that's what's going to get you into these Fletching jigs if you don't make sure those veins are all the way down when you go to close them.

They will be uneven when they come out of the receiver close it, pull down, grab the top, slide it over the top, push it down now you can let it sit for a minute and then open a single receiver and do it again. or if you have two, which is good to do it quicker because it still feels wet, so I'm going to go ahead and use it down when you get to the first one to get it out, pull all of these back straight relatively straight. I don't see much from the overspray, it probably has a good amount of glue in there, everything seems to be stuck together pretty well, so I'll leave that one in there and load it again.

The last one has a bit of Uber, so I'd like to see if there are any. bubble of glue and wipe it off with a Q-tip, but if you put the right amount on it, it usually stays pretty clean. It takes a while to get used to how much to do and then once everything is done I like to use the Fletch type. Platinum on the ends, so there's no bump in the transition, so it's smooth because if you don't do it a lot, if you cut something or snag something, a sheet of paper, something like that, there's a good chance that it peels I found that when you do this it's very difficult to remove the vein after it's stuck, so those two things will give you good contact and good security, so what I'm doing here is building a little graph. to weigh everything and try to

match

everything and we're going to weigh the arrows, the inserts and the feel points now, if you're going to hunt, you want to weigh your broadheads, not your fuel points, because you want them to match. more than anything, but we're going to start by using our grain scale here and start weighing each arrow and then I have a little box here to write in so that the arrow is between 214.5 and 14.5 and put it back like the first.

Second Arrow Arrow 215, there's a lot of difference here. Check it again, yes, two fifteen six. Okay, now we remove each insert. These are titanium prototypes that I made because I'm trying to make as light as I can and they're pointing. 30 grains, so typically, traditionally, when you check these, you'll find up to a grain difference, which gives you a little bit of flexibility to make your components lighter or heavier. Be careful when you do this also if you break something. out of place you're going to hate life because you're going to have to weigh everything again so well that we only found a tenth of a grain from one insert to another Max there's nothing more to it than that so hopefully there's a little more variation on the field points to try to match this now.

Every time I've done this in the past with other components, this is the first time I've done it with mine, there's always been a decent amount of tolerance to where you can take these two that will be heavier and put them with an arrow lighter so they fit more or less the same a little worried I'm not going to have enough variants for that to work in this video but if you do weigh your stuff and you're using most people's components you'll find some variants to combine these things, so we'll see what we find here, since I don't want my products to have a lot of variation. on them I could use a lot of variants right now oh cool there are some 99.8 variants now I really like to do this personally with the amount of arrows I'm going to take hunting which I usually try to do two dozen arrows so I usually gives you enough variation of 24 arrows 24 components.

I've had people go really crazy with this and weigh each stroke into each vein, try to put them together that way, but I found that most of the time I did this, I was able to get it out just from the inserts and the tips and not have than going through all the other weighing stuff, if you end up using components that have a really tight tolerance, you might have to go through and weigh the bumps and the crimped veins and put a couple of tents here and a couple of tents there together , but I've never found enough veins to make it relevant, to be honest I don't think you're going to weigh more than a tenth in a vein and that's asking a lot. and honestly, your scale is likely to vary a little more than a vein is likely to be off by a tenth because that's right, they only have six or seven grains.

I mean, there's not much to have in a 99.5 molded product. So we've got a little bit of variation here, we might be able to make it work. Most broadheads I've weighed have more variation than this, so it depends on the inserts you're using and their height. By publishing them in quantity, you will get more variation than a tenth of a grain in the inserts. I've found up to a full grain in inserts before, depending on who and how many you use, but if you did, you'd know double the amount. of components to pass twice as many arrows to pass it is much easier to bring them closer the last two years that I have built arrows I have not been more than three tenths of the total from the lightest arrow to the heaviest arrow simply by weighing inserts and points, for which isn't very difficult, but since we're a grain short on the overall Arrow, we'll probably have a hard time matching it, so we'll probably have less than half a grain total. 99.4 99.5 99.4 Okay now comes the fun little math part so we're going to try to make the heaviest component we can so checking here we got a 99.8 so that's number two and then 29.9 number one the we're going to take them out and Screw them in, not only was it nice and then we're going to take them and put them on the lightest arrow we can find, so it's going to be 214.4 2.15 2.

Okay, so we're going to put it at number 12 and set it up. back up, so now we're going to remove number one and number two from the board and number 12. And we'll do it again to find the next heaviest point we can, which I think is 99.5. so we'll take the number three 99.5 and another insert of 29.9 which is the number five and then the next lighter arrow which is the number 11. I think so, 14.4, so that was the number five one two three four five and the number three and number 11. Okay, 99.5 there are several of those, so we'll go down to six here.

I should probably do this as I get them out, it will be easier for me here 6 29 9 is 6. and then 214 five will be next, so that will be the arrow number sevenso one two three four five six seven make sure you always put it back in order so as not to mess up the count which is the number seven, the next heaviest one will be seven and I didn't mark six or seven seven and seven are also the same, so I can mark that , that one, that one and number one. Okay, now we've taken the 12 arrows, combined them all, and made them as similar as possible because our component tree is very tight and I marked each one as we went along.

Now I'm going to use my little paper towel that I used to hold my inserts and tips to clean up the hot glue and we're going to glue these suckers together and see how well we did. Alright, let's hot glue them together. I really prefer using a heat gun instead of a blowtorch because it's a little more controllable, so just set it on your counter, turn it on, and take out your component. I like to use these. Loop pliers because their tip fits in there very easily, it's easy to hold so you don't get your hands too hot, the glue gets hot and starts to soften a little, you can put a little bit in there, it's still not completely weird. heat up the arrow, okay, I'm trying to show you how to do this so you don't cause damage for a long time.

I didn't recommend using hot glue because people pick up their own stuff, twist it really well, and then let it sit. the counter will eventually dry out and you can peel it right away, so do it again when you look at it, you can see it turn liquid just like that it started moving, spin, spin, spin, spin, spin, as long as you don't get it. too hot, you don't really need to dip it in water, but if you're worried, a little cup of water, cool it down, but the hot glue doesn't need to be very hot, this material we use doesn't.

It doesn't take that much to heat it up super, heat the component a little, heat the glue a little, put it there a little, there you go, put the component back and wait for it to become a little liquid, there you turn it, turn it, turn it . They're great so you'll know when they're done when it's no longer sticky and you just push them in like this and with a little o-ring, all the glue will usually be gone when you're done. number 12, the first ones cool enough, you can remove them, peel them, it's very easy and if you're really stingy you could probably put it back in your little glue ball and reuse it if you want, because it's still just hot glue and all what I said, you can reuse it and I'm cheap so I'll put it back there.

Look, take off a couple more of these, oh don't waste it, there you take off a couple more of these and then you weigh them. and look how we did it, this one is already there, there are a couple more things you can do to get them a little closer if you have to, but if you are within three four tenths, even half a grain, of a Dutchman, you can outperform a Dutch. half a grain, but some people may think they can one more, the last one, this is the last one I made, so yeah, when I got to this one, it cooled enough, it comes off, it still sticks a little bit but it doesn't burn you. piece kick nice and clean, okay, let's see how we did here in the room, oh look at that extra glue, yeah, 345.5 and yeah, I'm going to kill something with that 345.4 345.2 weird, that's really light, that's naughty, I could It might be because I moved the scale. wait, let's see, yes, that's because I move the scale, let's start again, no, it's also 345.5 345, friend, something strange turn it off 3448 344 7. it's close, there were two that came out very light 344.9 344 5. so, with the exception of two these are all within half of two that were light honestly this one is really light so I'll have to add some weight to that one yeah you probably want to add the weight to that one check we had two frank, very light.

Yeah, other than that, they're all 344, 9 to 345, you know, three or four, so I'll end up doing these two. I don't have any with me right now, but I'll go to the store and buy some spray. uh Fletch lock or not Fletch lock sorry, lacquer thinner, lots of lacquer thinner, oh my gosh, spray lacquer, sorry, thank you. I'm going to take the knock out, throw it in the back, take it out and weigh it to add a little bit of weight to these two arrows. Because they are too light now I need them within half a grain and these are a grain away now when I go to switch to broadheads I can go back and do it all over again before I bother doing that and finding .

My two heavier broadheads and I put them on these two arrows, but other than that, they are all within less than half a grain. You should be able to shoot them at any distance and not be able to tell the difference. Comment below what you think about this. video and if this was helpful or if you learned something from it, if you have questions, ideas for videos, please put them there too. Hey, like and subscribe, we appreciate your connection with us and being able to continue sending you information that will hopefully help you. You're a smarter goalie because that's what we're trying to do.

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