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The Show Must Go On - Andrew Carruthers - Today's Pixie

Jun 24, 2022
Isn't it digital? We're all a treat guys, okay, looks like we're finally streaming on Facebook and on YouTube. The best part was that I fixed everything and then my camera decided to stop working, so thank you very much. for your patience we're back we'll have a great time cutting some

pixie

eat here we'll still be able to get most of the content but we have a little bit of time in between my segment and the next Anna segment so she can get there a little late and someone during this segment is going to win one of these super super badass tripod to the point and extreme red can extreme bleach sorry break in bleach extreme package so excited to give it away because we eat we breathe and the pivot point of the dream and love very excited about that plus you're going to get a special little message from Robert's own face at the end of this broadcast so that would be fun ok a lot of you didn't hear the intro I gave earlier. so this is

today

's Dixie this is not a hundred percent complete actually this is the mannequin head I am 98% complete with but I wanted to

show

you the difference between where we would have been more with

pixie

haircuts , which has been more of that kind of texture undercut a lot of very short short hair lawyers around the perimeters now what we're starting to see is because of the shag and that 70's and 90's influences are coming back as well we're starting let's see that element goes into the pixies so you can see this hasn't been super cleaned up on the perimeter this has been left super loose very mangled and i understand it seems a little heavy but let's talk about how to approach that and wrap up and detail But we're going to go through the haircut and I'm going to

show

you how to start building something that can have a little more slack, separation, and texture along the perimeter, so let's get started, shall we?
the show must go on   andrew carruthers   today s pixie
I've already started to cut the head off for you a little bit because just based on how much time we have, you just don't want to spend that much time, but you can see we started to break up our first section was the vertical transition and Jesse Linares, when he comes up a little bit later for your bob class, it's I'm going to show you in depth how to do this fundamental breakdown The fundamental breakdown is really about parting the hair on the actual side back and up so we can really understand the distribution of the hair on the regards to the surface of the head so we can Ready, first go ahead and clip it.
the show must go on   andrew carruthers   today s pixie

More Interesting Facts About,

the show must go on andrew carruthers today s pixie...

It's like putting a ring on it, but put a clip on it. Dad jokes. this side and part of the back so the first step we're going to do is cut the perimeter first now like I said we actually want to leave a softer and more furry perimeter so a lot of times what we could do is we could start from the bottom start with the angle of our finger there and start to build but we don't have a lot of texture and movement on the perimeter we cut all of that out so first we're going through a process to build some texture and slack into that perimeter so we're going to divide it into sections like three quarters of an inch and a half inch this is really going to depend on the density and texture of the hair as well.
the show must go on   andrew carruthers   today s pixie
If you have very fine hair, you may want a slightly larger sectional section there because with finer hair we want to make sure that we have some density through that. perimeter for finer hair take this section around the perimeter just a little bigger let's work it wet she's dry because it's been a section for some continuous fog bear we set up the mannequin head with raccoons one i made we drank quite a bit these things here mainly because they work so well on the mannequin heads that we started washing and conditioning the mannequin heads with that new red product from Ken that you guys are potentially going to win at the end of this, the reason for this is which i think the biotin especially the one in the shampoo and conditioner really helps soften the mannequin heads plus adding just a hint then you play it safe which we are looking for for the mannequin heads .
the show must go on   andrew carruthers   today s pixie
It creates a bit of protection from the heat, but it also makes the hair a nice softness. I think we have a question, Michelle, so the quiz just follow the instructions on the screen. get a chance to win the pivot point tripod and the red tin extreme pack and we'll pick the winner at the end of this segment and then we'll announce it here so we'll take that section which is DeLong next here watch closely and grab the comb bottom and I'm going to take the bridge of that comb and raise it up to the top of the section so tell me always talk about this how we can use the cotton bridge under the spine of the comb is a police hair where we want whatever it is so we take that bridge of the spine comb we're going to put our fingers under it so we can hold and we're going to lift the hair up keep your fingers tight against the head the hair is now at the top of this section like this that when I work with the scissor and the tip cut pretty smooth we just scan through that what happens is the edge of the perimeter has risen when we let it drop it leaves us kind of softer and more the rgo. the water in it so that it would not come out.
I know you've been very curious about the tools we've been using, so I'll be more conscientious in sharing them with you. This is six point two five six simplified. and a quarter inch part that we designed this year to keep all of the positive ergonomics that we have in our shears with that thumb forward but with much smaller finger holes giving it that glove fit so I like the six and a quarter for this particular type of work been pretty much my bailey driver lately just because it's such a light weight scissor and very comfortable so here same thing look at the angle of my finger it stays parallel to the line of that section because i want to direct the hair too much and lift it away from the hairline so same thing the comb does the job followed the bridge of the comb to the top of the section which pulls the hair away from the section my friend DJ Melvin , which is like a great mentor and as far as being a teacher always says to take your hair away from what you want to keep so lifting and oversteering away from that perimeter we're going to keep the length towards that side is not exactly as he says he says it much more eloquently eloquent we question several questions regarding type of hair texture great very well in this case we are going to be looking primarily at someone who has more of a medium to finer type of hair textures Super thick, coarse, and curly hair would probably end up feeling a bit slick as a mushroom.
I'll try to remember these exact techniques that I'm going to show you to talk to you as we go through the haircut about some of the things that you could adjust within the haircut to better suit that thicker hair. the texture so clearly is really going to depend on what they do with their curly hair because if they think it's curly this is not the haircut for them because especially this short if they have a tight curl it will turn into weird little curls around the side of your head is probably not the look you're going for if you're going to blow-dry it and have good control over your core, okay, then we can work with that, so we're going to start here at the front. and actually let me take you to the graphic here for a second so you can see phase one, we're using the perimeter, it just rises away from the perimeter, now we're going to go into vertical sections and look at the cut. line with the vertical sections the cut line is going to be a diagonal so my section itself is vertical let me put a little more water in it to control it you know with haircuts like this because they have multiple sections and shorter hair , these are the type of cuts we like to work with. at least wet wow drop a comb add that to the list of combs we have to give sam but when working wet we have a bit more control over keeping our sections clean so that's one of the reasons why you might choose to work with for Work with wet hair or dry hair.
Take our shear again. We have that vertical section. The elevation will be what we call 90 degrees horizontal. What we mean by that is that the individual hairs will stay parallel to the floor. section my fingers go flat to her head because the shortest point on the / at the top edge of what we cut for the perimeter is pretty much against the head for the length of the fingers so that's where I want to go and place my fingers against the head Take your fingers out and read the diagonal angle of the finger that I'm looking for and then we'll scan down the section at that diagonal cut line so what we're creating here is something that says like this actually it's the shortest . kind of in the middle of this section that's what gives us that cave of cotton just above the ear but still allows us to keep some length and texture to the perimeter next question so the question is is it curly but they smooth it out, could we cut it anyway? wet or dry probably still wet actually because I think you'll still have the benefit of more control now that you can do this dry so I guess my answer might be it's going to be a little bit based on personal preference if you feel you have more control over guest hair than dry hair so maybe the trade off is that you don't have as much control with sections but maybe you have better control over texture every decision this is something ing we really think guys and it's for that we don't talk in we don't talk in terms of always and always right wrong will always get a bit of an ambiguous answer from us because we don't believe that there's always a right way or way to do something, in fact we tell people if you you sit in a classroom and they are basically preaching well this is the way you have to do this this is the way you have to do that we would probably suggest you look up e in a different classroom because yes the compromises you can make when crying at first maybe a little more difficult to control your sections but maybe the benefit is that you have more control over the texture of the hair or vice versa if you cut it in the wet, you might struggle with its texture a bit more, but you might feel more in control of the elevations of the num directions sections, so it's always a win-win process and compromise as we work towards behind, we continue with the vertical sections. exactly the same so we're not directing this too much forward or backward because at this point we're not trying to gain length in either direction so this has already been done on the opposite side of the head.
Diagonal angle of the finger. I can see my guide from behind and then. just scan my section keeping it pretty parallel I don't want this to look too thick I wanted to keep it pretty smooth great so let's address why we're cutting this. We also believe that efficiency is a very important part of what we do. As hairdressers, as you probably realize if you've seen some of my education, I'm not fast at all, in fact, I'm pretty slow at most things, which means when it comes to cutting hair, I have to choose. the most efficient way to do it. get to my bottom line because that's the only way I'm going to do things in the amount of time I have so we figure if you don't want a hard blunt line then why are you cutting a hard blunt line because if you're cutting a hard blunt line with the first cut then you have to destroy that hard blunt line somewhere during the process that you're working on so we definitely see a trend towards more texture within haircuts than I would say to myself that I should probably cut with an instrument and with the process that will give me a texture the tip cut here is very very smooth because the hair is short if I go in and a stronger diagonal and do these kind of choppy feeling cuts which will be very apparent with how short this hair is because it's so short that I'm going to stay a little more parallel with that spiky cut.
Now could I use a razor for this? Absolutely yes, and I plan to show you a couple sections with the razor. You'll get a slightly different texture with the razor, but the same kind of principle. if i don't want hard straight lines then i don't choose a process in the technique that creates our customers straight so we're going to grab the razor so this is our straight razor a couple of you guys asked me um leave this here for you a couple of you asked about the blades we have three bullets it's the car I'm with our razors this one is straight what we call straight but it has a guard but we have two texturizing blades that come inside the package we have an A nine gap razor and a six gap razor so those gaps only cut strands of hair so you can think of the white one which is the nine gap orthat's wait I'm saying that ok I might be saying that problem but anyway the white one that has the smallest gaps we see that it's more like a thinner blending scissors and then we have another one that has a razor of 206 very large spaces and that's a black color code that one has almost like a scissor type bit touch it so as we cross around the back of the head we'll continue on those vertical sections with the razor one thing the It changes, that's where I stop my fingers because when I'm cutting with scissors the guide is here and the front of my fingers when we're cutting with a razor the guide is behind the fingers so I have to slide past my guide to have room to bring the razor in get some tension and then make these circular cuts everything else is the same the rise is the same the angle of the finger is the same so nothing else changes here when you're short Using a razor and a couple of things that will really help make sure you get a good strong tension on the hair allows the razor blade to float through the hair much easier and we recommend changing your razor blade every cut and indeed if it's someone with very thick heavy resistant hair and I heard Jesse the other day say that he will actually change his razor blade maybe once or twice during that particular haircut that I haven't done before but I think it's a good idea because there are times at the end of the haircut I feel like I'm starting to struggle with the hair a bit if you have good tension damp hair that is prepped with some kind of silky smooth product if you have the correct blade angle and relationship to the hair which is somewhere at about a 45 degree angle and you are making good strokes that hit that razor should be floating through s of the hair like it's just a hot knife through butter if you feel like you're fighting for something reason with your razor through the hair something's wrong you have a blunt razor you don't have enough tension you don't have the right angle typically it's one of those particular challenges how are we doing give me a give me a hey hey in the comment box if you feel good if you are having fun are you enjoying the show good question cross check some cross checks because im using a vertical section now im going to take a horizontal section here it is what we're working with is a dramatic texture like this that's not going to show me a clean line so you know Sammy always likes it to be hard to check off the things you've cut with such a bold texture so what? we're looking for when we collate was th horizontally it's just to make sure that the overall shape stays with the shape of the head because remember we're not driving too far forward, we're not driving too far back because we're not trying to build length into a a certain direction here we are just trying to keep it parallel with the head shape so i just take a couple sections horizontally across this bottom just to make sure i keep it balanced so we only have a section or two more here thanks for sticking with me guys and i apologize again for those issues at the beginning of the stream if you are interested in any tools you need to be really sensitive when talking about our sale because we totally understand a lot of you are facing financial hardship right now and we want to be support of that, what is really important is that if you are looking for such stock up on some things or buy some tools for when you're ready to go back to the salon, we wanted to offer you the opportunity to buy some tools for the best possible price and also do something philanthropic with that money, so what we've done is put the tools on the cheapest price possible which is 40% off almost everything on the website but to make sure we were giving back to the community but we also donated 10% of all those sales to the kovat disaster fund 19 from the Pro Beauty Association which is amazing we have Steve Sleeper right at the end of Sam's segment and the cool thing is they've had over a million dollars now that's come through their hands to help hairdressers and if you are one of those people who are struggling financially go to PBM because you can apply for assistance with the kovat 19 disaster relief funds if you are someone your family is doing well pretty cool right now maybe you know you have a spouse or someone else in your household who is still working and you feel pretty comfortable donating to that co good 19 relief fund even if it's five bucks before n if it's two bucks great, that's what will help them continue to help hairdressers in need so if you have something please share and if not we are here for you would you recommend doing this?
The nice thing about doing this on a guest with a difficult hairline is that with this little bit of extra length that you're starting to see build up this is something they can really dry out there are two perspectives when we start talking about how to deal with Hairlines difficult hair because in a sense if we cut it shorter like this it might be more difficult or sorry if we cut it longer like this it might become a little bit harder for them to control just because those patterns will show up of growth. more but if there is someone who likes to blow and drop the benefit of doing this is it gives them something to really hold on to with the blow dryer now the other option would be if they have a very difficult hairline, maybe you.
I want to make it short enough that I don't care about the growth pattern, for example I have a really crazy growth pad at the back of my hair. In fact, I don't like my hair to go super clipper. I short sometimes so what I do is I have my hairdresser they ask him to keep the sides a little softer and more textured but then when we get to the neckline he does the thing which has a lot of Brooklyn right and the Brooklyn bang it's super low. fade which pretty much takes it to the skin so only two options and that's really once again it all comes down to the discussion with your client so now we are going to move on to the next part of the haircut which is going to be the step number two here bring it down a bit so step number two that you can see is the crown area so we're going to split from the highest point towards the ear but we're not necessarily aiming for the ear in this place. point is rather that's where it's going to end and I'm going to explain a little more on the mannequin head the elevation is kind of a diagonal elevation because we want it to just be straight lines from that crown so it's almost 90 degrees perfectly from the middle of the crown you can see it's a little different elevation at different points and I'll explain a little bit more about that as we get further into the pack you've got a little bit here come on sorry I'm messing with my zoom lens

today

to see the effect that gives them better views. without me jumping around with the tripod of course i need to give myself one more thing to pay attention to during a live broadcast right zoom lens haircut comments questions and thanks for your comments and questions thanks for being patient with us with compliments. and questions we've never had such a large turnout on our streams before, so sometimes we're a little behind in getting to some of your feedback, and quite honestly, some of it just wasn't going to get through. to you right away we'll do our best to come back and answer some of them as we go along and folks you know we appreciate you being a community some of you have been answering each other's questions and that's beautiful thanks for doing that's ok so let's look at this section if we take the comb and put it parallel to the floor place it on top of your head see where it hits the head that's the highest point on the head that tells us where the head starts milled back and become more of the crown from there once it just encompasses the crown so don't necessarily use to specifically target anything on the ear we're looking at what the natural shape of this area of ​​the crown is and it follows after from that crown we're going to work sections into a pie shape which is a bit of a tongue twister we'll start in the center and go down to about an inch wide at the occiput it's going to go here and fan out let's see you can see i probably should have not chosen a d ark shirt for the bottom but hey whatever this is what is going to be interesting because the head is curved if i choose a straight cut look at the spine the cut line straight you will notice that the hair is shorter in the most protruding part of the round. which is the middle of the crown right there and it's going to be longer here and longer here that's part of that shape that I'm trying to create so the angle of my finger takes the same as I'm going to cut a little bit of that excess length just because it will be easier to cut to the point now here we are going to tackle it with a little bit deeper kind of knot technique yeah that will really depend on the client so the question is how long did this person schedule to come back between four and six weeks because a couple of things we all know is that different people's hair grows at different rates but it will also depend on the tolerance of our guests because yes we do have certain guests that the I actually don't care about the evolution that happens to As your hair grows and if it's a great haircut, I hope it grows out with some kind of beauty, some elegance, but I've also had clients in my clientele who you know won't come every three weeks with a full haircut. or this one because they can't tolerate anything that isn't really freshly cut so again as we shape we're not directing too much we're just looking because there's my guide we're going to keep the angle of the finger very parallel to the crown, the elevation is diagonal, you could call it 90 degrees from the center of the crown if you want to talk about degrees of elevation because the degree of the elevation is definitely 90 degrees here from the center of the crown, but it also stays on the same elevation as we get to the crown.
We're not going to 90 degrees or, sorry, to the highest point. point everything stays in that sam The elevation we will continue with that pie shaped section working around the head shape that diagonal elevation or 90 degrees from the center of the crown remove some length there just to make it a little easier put our notch in there and you can see why is it important to work with a belief that has only a little bit of length? I know if we were working with five and a half years we would probably need a little more leaf length to get that texture especially since I'm in the crown so this is an area where we have tons of different growth patterns and calyx inside the Corona One of the things you can do to make sure you give your guests the best chance of addressing corona issues is to keep some texture and movement there if we are very forceful in these areas that have growth patterns really strong. when I don't control them correctly, it's much more apparent, so the chalice is a couple of things that this part cuts out as well. here because we don't want the crown to sit perfectly flat we wanted it to have some texture and movement we'll be sure to teach you how to wrap it properly blow dry your hair from one side to the other to help break it down those chalices if I go to my next section and take that one section and I say where is my guide where is my guide well the best thing to do is go back a little bit because if you know you have an I'm back here somewhere then just take a section back because usually I do What we find is when people say they've lost my guidance, usually what they're telling us is that they're ahead, so they took too much hair in front and not enough. hair behind this section to keep consistent guidance so if I lose my guidance what I'm going to do is step back and go well well I mean back off a bit let's take those sections okay there's a guide that will make you stronger you can also do a quick cross check so you can check there take your cross section and pull it up and what you notice is oh look ok that's where it was and here's the new hair which needs to be cut now that tells you ok i have to stomp all the way back there to find that guide again as we start working on the left side of the head nothing changes everything stays the same.
I'm only going to cut a section or two. as we work out many times we are taught that we have to change our body position from side to side again there is a benefit and there is a commitment to every decision we make the benefit of changing our body position is consistency in the overdirection so if I am oversteering again if I change my body then I can continue straight to the back naturally but what we find is that when people start going from this position to this position with thearm, they generally change their elevation and usually the cutoff as well, so there are benefits and trade-offs in everything I'm going to show you. some sections here on the side so you understand what's going on now at the top if we look at the diagram here as you can see in step number three now we're going to switch to vertical sections at the top of the head we're going to run the line of the hair a little bit back but the elevation stays pretty much like that and I'll just leave it here for a second guys if you want to get a screenshot of the diagrams because we probably won't have time to go back. go ahead if you want a nice screenshot of that diagram go ahead and grab that once in a while how would you address thin or sparse hair on top we have sparse hair that wasn't very pirate yeah i just have a bit of a Crimean rocker, isn't it?
Well she has very thin hair, sorry Robert, well you totally forgot what the question was. i'm going to think this you can see my mmm-hmm as thin inner thin just doesn't have a lot of density this will actually work quite well because this cut line at the top will actually give you a little bit of extra length on top of your head so this will actually work really well if it's a little thinner at the top so we'll go to a center parting as we go along the top we'll take vertical sections and within that vertical section we'll take a little piece of the pre-cut section of the crown that sets my guide so you can see right there is the guide the elevation and turner and show you that from the front so you get a better feel for what that elevation looks like this is how the elevation looks so you can see again that because If the rise is sort of a diagonal like this, the shortest point will actually be on the curvature of the head and leave me some length at the top. rior so going back to the question you had before this is going to be beneficial because it's going to leave a little bit of length at the top to create a little more density it's going to run just a little bit of weight on this segment but that's ok because we built some buffer time between the segments so we'll make sure we get Ana back to you perfectly on time, we have to have a little bit of buffer time for graphics transition and all that kind of stuff, but don't worry, we'll We'll make sure not to spoil your time with you because that's pretty important, you guys have really enjoyed Anna and her work.
I definitely want to appear in this scream ending suggesting Anna because I think many of you are somewhat familiar with me. They are definitely familiar with Sam but Jessie. and Anna haven't had as much t I was in the studio as we have and I'm so excited to see how much they have enjoyed Jessie and Anna this weekend, there are fantastic hairdressers and just so you know you can hire them to give you classes at online in your classroom for now, maybe even just at home, you can basically do these one hour, two hour and three hour long online classes where we video chat with you and your team so you can do that with Anna, you can do that with Jessie and you can do that with me you have the live artist studio you can get information on that unless it's through the website if you click on the education tab once you get into the education tab just click on I think it's an artist reservation yes it's an artist reservation let's go to Sam Viacom click on the education tab and then there's a tab called artist reservation and that will give you the information you need so what e if we look at it from a profile view here you can see that now i'm directing that front airline back because if you love it ok in our reference point we let the front elongate to protect that length in the front for the bangs .
We will order echt back. This is optional. If you wanted more of a short with a lot of texture. I could definitely go in a full direction, especially when we're adjusting a lot of thick hair instead of spiky cutting. Sometimes it is good to do this, which is to cut the movement. we're coming from the inside out so it's going to take more of the hair from the inside and then leave a little bit more length out and we'll talk more in detail about that specific topic in today's afternoon class called texturing and detailing nicely from here, we would give it a good wrap dry.
I'd love to talk more about drying the wrap that only has 45 minutes with you, so by the magic of TV, check out what just happened. sically at this point with this mannequin head it's exactly what I just showed you with very little actually almost no detail I think I clipped some fine hairs off the bottom but that's all because I wanted to go through more of the texturing and detailing with you in this um just live and i knew we wouldn't have time to dry so let's talk a little bit about smoothing this out now because the main thing you're going to find is the way the shape is cut is you're going to have quite a line weight strong here so if you think about it when we cut off that top because the finger has a diagonal target of course this down here was raised higher so it's we're going to leave that blank and actually even slightly separated at the bottom to address that we're going to grab the artist series slide cutting shear we love this year.
I love the way Jessi explains it because she says it's the shear you never know you want until we Whether or not it's the shear you never knew you needed then you start using it because honestly it's not something you should have, but after we start playing with it it's a lot of fun so it helps smooth out that block and we want the weight but we don't want the line we don't want that type of block so we'll just put it diagonally and then work towards down and through the strand of hair at a slight diagonal and as you can see I'm actually going to close all the way but notice how it's not grabbing the hair that's the principle of the scissor is that it allows the hair to push slightly as you cut to that you can keep the texture very, very smooth and you can see it now starting to break up that heaviness of the line but still leaving that weight because from a frontal standpoint what we really want to keep is we want to keep that fullness there.
We actually like this shape it's just I didn't like the visual I'm the heaviness I mean just continue to do that anywhere we see that heaviness that bit of arc thinness if you want even though the cuts of bowl are kind of cool, right? Oh, and then the same kind of technique at the top, we can take a few sections at the top to continue to break this up. a little more texture and eNOS peace is there a reason my classes every time I say eNOS peace people think I'm staying politically correct it's like the texture is politically correct no pc pc get it and then around the perimeter to smooth out the perimeter we're going to go with the invisible end shear so the invisible end shear is our smoothest blending shear it actually allows the hair to slide forward much like the slip cutting shear so that when cutting it won't grab a ton of hair and it's just going to help me smooth out the density of the hair without removing too much hair because I really like the overall shape it just has a little bit of volume on the edge ok so the question is what makes slip cutting shear is better for that type of technique than regular scissor and it's all about how it allows hair to glide let me show you an example flippity the other side because I don't mind looking up a little bit so on this side let's do the same so let's take the seven inch dry cutting shear which is our most aggressive cutting shear.
If I do the same thing with the seven inch dry cutting shear, if I put this diagonally it'll be fun and I do that I think you can probably see what I just did there. I created a big chunk, so the main difference here is that with the same aggression slip-cutting shear, you can see it's a lot smoother, it actually slightly pushes the hair away from the face. as you cut really what you're doing is allowing the hair to be a lot softer as you cut that texture so from here really it's just detailing especially around the perimeter all that kind of stuff and then here with the fringe we like this long dream f Ringe so its a really very quick and simple process just work back with this live cutting shear just to create a diagonal and if you want it to sweep both ways guess what just do the same from the opposite side, just work in and gently work some diagonals. through that side so she has the option to push it this way push it that way it just doesn't matter she can move it in any direction she wants so I think we have a winner for the tripod mount and can red mmm sorry I keep forgetting.
The name is the Bleach Extreme pack and the winner is Renae. I'm going to guess a shadow. Shh, although I'm saying it totally wrong, but from North Carolina, so congratulations, you're in a boy group. Yeah again thank you very much for your patience today as we work through some of the technical issues we'll definitely talk more about the texturing and detailing process and the EF and in class so don't miss that I have to close so we can take a short break and reset for Anna Peter She's going to be talking about boho Bridal and we've got a lot more coming up this afternoon with Jesse and Sam too so thanks so much for watching.
I'll see you in a moment.

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