Rupes Product Training: E9 - Machine Sanding Application

This is not like that, it's unbelievable how horrible this is. I mean, what years is a car like a 2017 Altima? Probably a combination of brush washing and cleaning, washing and car wash, whatever you call it, automatic car wash. You know, these straight lines are. from the automatic, yes, many of them are welcome, look Matt, this is the scenario we were talking about, where layers and layers of defects where one of the traditional and normal approaches would be to just hammer this with a compound wool pad, movement aggressive tool, whatever, but some kind. of an aggressive approach, so what we're going to show is an alternative to that which will use this foam disc technology, so it's sandpaper, but it's a completely different approach to normal sandpaper, this one is about Eight inches thick, about a quarter of an inch thick and then this is if this is a 3000 3000 grit it's funny when you feel these things it almost feels like you don't like it it doesn't feel like traditional sandpaper it almost feels like a rough sweater you know, yeah, very, very different technology and this approach will eliminate defects like that without composite filler and all that and then we also talked about the film disc technology, which is more like the traditional approach, very, very thin, like sandpaper fishing with grit and this is a 1500 grit and this is a dry

sanding

product

, you can see because there's a stearate pattern there and that's an indication of a dry

sanding

, it's like a dry lubricant on the sandpaper that releases as you go, so you know we're going to do it in one place on this car, we're going to do a two step scenario that's going to show removing these defects but also leveling the texture, so we will show that this two step scenario one: this is not dry, this is wet, in fact we call it wet, it is not a flood of water, it is also a spray, so we will do the two steps on one side, on this side we will do the step in which we are going to look for defects, but leaving the texture first we want to clean the surface and remove dust and debris and also remove any possible wax or enamel residue that may be in the paint and in this case you could use a solution IP or diluted, yes, diluted in a spray bottle or I can use this

product

which is a G Technic clean the panel, turn it off so you have, I mean, this is a car.

Perl has a version, it has a version, yeah, I'm kind of a chemist that aims to remove the oils in the idea, so we're going to do that and this is always the first step because if you're trying to sand on a surface that has waxes on it or roofs or something like that, it's going to oppose what you're trying to do with the sandpaper so it's going to cause you more work and you're going to load up your sandpaper so the first disc I'm going to throw in one go just for fun. I'm going to hit it again and now I think there might be wax there because now I see more scratches, yeah, I'm making it too believable, yeah.

Okay, so I'm going to show the two steps and then I want to do one step on that side so we have a variety of orbits, so these are our air tools, these are three millimeter, six millimeter, and nine millimeter air sanders in this first step with the film disc. I'll be in the range of three or six according to using the least aggressive method first, we'll take this three millimeters and see how it works, we'll put our foam interface pad in there, all the holes are for cooling well, the holes are actually designed for a dust extraction system, ok yes, so they will suck up the dust as it is sanded, wouldn't these little holes create problems like grabbing problems?

Well, in theory, it's not the film disc, they are thick enough that the hooks on the vacuum cleaner or interface shouldn't stick out, but if you push down hard enough you will make contact with those hooks on the ideas, don't push down. down let the paper do the work so I'm just going to do a A little spot here let me show you something real quick before I go on so it was ten seconds yeah it was literally two after this so what I want show you here is that here you see an area that looks different than this, yes, this is your almost completely leveled texture right here, very quickly, yes, very quickly.

I can still see some dimples, but considerably different than here and what those dimples are, those are valleys, so we removed the peaks and two passes disappeared, these are peaks and valleys. This is what's called partial texture leveling, so if the goal was to level the entire texture, we haven't done that here but we've come close here, so I just wanted to show you that before we continue there is a little bit of loading, but no so much. as you can see, just those couple of extra passes, textured levels, this area over here is where you have absolutely no partial heat, yes, it's a no heat approach to achieve that with one hand with a block, it would have taken me 20 minutes between hands, yes.

Because I would have made a small section with the small blocks, but you can sand by hand with a whole piece of sandpaper and you can even out that texture with a few passes by hand. The correct product is needed on the right hand pad. but you can do this by hand referring to loading all the little spots that are loading and if I kept sanding with this I would be asking for that pigtail mark that we showed you in the classroom so there are two ways to clean this with a towel and my recommendation is a cotton towel, not a microfiber because the microfiber will clean this effectively but it will also start to remove the frenulums from the disc, so the cotton will not, so you will have removed the load that is on the disc . as you can see the stearic material is still there so it hasn't affected you can continue sanding just fine so that's one way the other way is to remove it and another way is to remove it we show the towel approach but yeah , it cleaned it up much more efficiently, so that's your texture leveling step.

You could jump into this and aggravate any marks, but it wouldn't be efficient to remove sand marks. It would have to work harder, so the next step is that we are going to remove this film and switch to foam disc technology. This is 3000 grit and the purpose is to refine the sanding mark to make it easier to polish now just for fun. I'm going to change orbits and I'm going to Go to a large 9 millimeter orbit and I'm going to use that same foam interface pad and remember as we talked about the function of the foam interface pad is to eliminate that little bit of angle with the UV tool and level it over the paint, which will prevent part of that edge from being cut off.

Now this approach and most foam disc products, regardless of brand, will be used wet, so I'm not aware of any foam disc technology that just because you use dry doesn't mean it doesn't exist, but I just don't know. . Almost every brand you can imagine of this technology uses water and is a couple of streams of water. so it's not wet sanding we call it prey sanding we want to do this twice double it double the passes or double the amount of time you just let the

machine

not apply any pressure you're just very light enough like to plant the difference, that's about the right speed right there and you see the foamy white stuff, yeah, it's actually a clear coat, they really want to work with this disc.

The biggest mistake people make is that they don't do it thoroughly enough. and you end up polishing a little bit of here are your 1500 grit stone scraps that you don't want to have to re-sand again, yeah, so those are the sand marks that should look very different to you, yeah, I mean, actually you can see. you start to see shine, you can see a reflection of that light, there's even no ups and downs, this is exactly how it should look and what we're going to show here is that it won't remove the texture and we can be here all day sanding and it won't remove the texture, but what it will remove is all those hard scratches so I'm going to break the cycle just to show you something so that's not the normal

application

but I just wanted to show you so you can see the straight line and scratches appear and you can still see them there already you know, so we haven't eliminated them effectively.

I'm trying to partially remove them so you can see the difference and there are still remnants of the straight line that you can still see, but some of them are removed correctly and you should count the passes and never go beyond ten passes with this technology, you can see that the straight lines are starting to disappear, all you see is a sort of orbital sanding, you can still see all the texture, yes, still Look at a couple of real depths, there we go, with very different appearances, you know, same 3000 great on both sides, but you can see a very different look and that's to be expected so it's 1500 drop over 3000 yeah and that's just the Devon so you.

We're going to compound this, yeah, so we'll just take our dick to a Zephyr 15 millimeter random orbital cutting disc or microfiber compound, which is our usual choice for a brand of sanding, but it's still a less aggressive compounding step What if we tried. to hammer out these scratches because you would have to do a much longer cycle or probably do more two or three yes yes there must have been a prototype it's not blue the color blue didn't come into our compounds until recently these products became available for five years, so we have a good amount to print again.

I do a short cycle just for the purpose of showing you something that was two passes that went up and down twice and you can see that there is not a complete removal of the defect in the sanding mark. but we probably have half of it right now mm-hmm, so that's a full cycle, the medium is off the edges or not a little bit more, the need is a little bit on the medium to hard side, but I'm just going to go to the edges and get that. The remaining sand marks the edges of the mark, so it took a good number of passes and due to the hardness of the paint, another car could have had the sand mark come off and half that time and then another car could have took twice as long. it just depends on the hardness of the paint, so from my angle you can see the difference in texture from here to here yeah, I definitely don't know if I'll be able to capture that difference in texture on camera, see the texture and the light right there.

Now we have a little bit of haze left for the microfiber in black, so we would finish that with foam on the yellow polish, you know, and remove the rest of that haze. In this case, you would definitely need that second step, other paints. You may not need it and I'm going to do Matt, let's call this drop down panel so when it's done visually you'll see each step, so here's your sanding mark, yeah, here's your compound mark and I'm just going to polish here. So you will see the final result struggling a little. You're doing it by finishing in gear 1.

Yeah, I'm a low gear guy. I'm on the lowest SP settings than most of my tools, so here you definitely should. see a progression and quality of finish and then this is what we started with this mess. You can actually see the mess we started with here. Did that appear on camera? Hmm, yeah, that could appear 20 feet away and then we have our Fanny mark. our composite mark and then a polished mark, which is a little flaw that was left a little bit, but this would be ready for wax for most people. You can refine it a little bit more with a couple more strokes of that polish going from there to this hmm, so on the foam, you know, you can prime as you go like this, you're really handicapped.

I'll show you proper priming, so we'll continue adjusting the speed with the mark on the version of the tool that we're going to leave. You leave it in one place for twenty or thirty seconds, which, told on camera, seemed like an eternity before you leave it in one place and what it does is it heats up, the foam heats up, the compound starts to spread over the surface and that's it. the main one. Fill in this kind of light pressure, at some point you'll see the rotations kick in right there, you'll see that yeah, and then you add more product or you just roll with that, you could actually roll with this amount of area, so that was Those were three Pacis, I decided on another three this way and that's it, I see all these scratches in a straight line mmm, if you follow them down they disappear right there mm-hmm, so all your scratches are gone, there's a little blurry mark from the compound. step, so this is this paint that I would describe as haze prone, because no matter what we've done, it generates a little bit of haze, so this is a type of paint that is just haze prone, just not, It never will be. a correct step exactly, it's already telling you that hey, no, I don't like the steps, yes, it has to do with the fragility of the paint, not the elasticity, so this paint would be a little more brittle than other paints . makes it more prone to scratching, yes, well, here I am looking at the rotation, my ideal speed for polishing, since I do the lowest possible speed that keeps this for like a year and a half, but as we have already learned that this ispaint prone to fogging, I'm not going to over cycle, I stopped it dead, it was two or three frames, yeah, and we'll see where we've gotten a lot better, yeah, a lot better, yeah, so it's gone and that showed everything.

We processed Matt, so we went from those hard scratches on top of the scratches to no scratches at all, but we left the texture alone here mm-hmm here we see a nasty sanded reducer panel Marty nasty car wash scratches sandy brand composite brand and I finished Very good , so let's check our paint deaths right after our three thousand nothing 15 less than three thousand composite composite on top of that and then let's finish the top of that so that our defective virgin paint here four point nine zero point nine eight five so it's quite consistent on that, so that's what we have at the defect level, so here we have 3,000 and dissolved foam, polished four point nine four point nine again five point two, even higher in that place four point nine, so It's pretty consistent, so what this shows is that procedure, we did three thousand grit sanding plus blowing and all we didn't remove paint, we never removed a microscopic level to remove defects, but other than that, we didn't cut too deep into the employee.

Oh, here's our sanding mark five five. five again four point nine so even then we're not showing much paint removal here compared to your composite four point nine for 0.93 is very consistent 4.96 4.8 so we got 4.9 and five here a very, very microscopic difference here and that really You shouldn't see any difference in polio four point nine four point nine three four point nine four five point three so basically looking at these measurements we don't impact the clear coat too deeply here so you know if we're getting a three point nine, you know , we did something serious, that would be pretty drastic if it started in the five or four nine and 5.0 area here, if it started to see four point five four point three, then you would really remove a lot of paint, yeah, now what?

We have nothing to compare ourselves to here. Well, what if we had taken a wool spinning pad in a compound and hammered it? So what would we see? That's something we haven't compared ourselves to yet, but the main point of this. The measurement is just to demonstrate that these procedures we just performed and not sanding are not correct. The sanding isn't as incredibly aggressive as the previous punishment has been, especially the way we did it here. I'm talking about the aggressive grain size we use throughout this process. The thing was fifteen hundred, right, if we had started with a thousand mm-hmm, we might have a different story here, but well, because if we did a thousand, we would have to continue with fifteen hundred, right, and then you know, I'm the step.

Yes, but we also did

machine

sanding, which, as we mentioned earlier in the classroom, means that machine sanding is less aggressive than hand sanding, so if we had done a thousand grits by hand, mm-hmm, we would have removed a lot more paint, which is counterintuitive. Most people think that the hand would be less suitable for definitions, so due to the inaccuracy of your human movement, well, this is not flat even with a hand pad. Your downward pressure on the sandpaper is not consistent mm-hmm, you have ups and downs and that's any mark. so yeah, it's a case based on what we just showed about using technology instead of the hammer, the mm-hmm ax uses refinement, you know, refined technology, they go after D, so we have you know aggressive compounds and sanded somewhere. come in instead of the opposite, which would be conventional wisdom, right, yeah, eventually I would say sanding is here and then compound, when it's a lot of times it could be the opposite, depending on the abrasive technology, it can be much more aggressive and certainly correct if we grow up a little. 80 grit, you know, start, yeah, polishing it, you know, with a 21, okay, so let's finish this, yeah, a matter of technique is when someone wants to get more aggressive to eliminate that last flaw.

I don't increase the speed I don't increase the damage speed I just make a slower pass with a little more pressure I remember that mist we cut so explain to me water how when how much how do you know I got the slide to okay, I'll do it I'll give you the nerd side of the water, oh man, that's good. I always polish those two things with water. I won't polish the car without this built into a spray bottle of water, so the concept here is to blow on the pad and blow out the residue we already have.

This is a tapering polish, you know, these don't taper mm-hmm, okay, lemon. I respond that I thought they were diminishing, so you were breaking down the enamel. No, I'm actually a fan of not tapering, so now look at the difference. here, yeah, that extra Paston mm-hmm, I could actually keep refining this and make it better and better just by blowing on that pad and spraying it with water and not adding any more product, no more product, yeah, okay, that's the part that It comes from many. of experience correct trial and error if it's okay