D16 Vitara build-Install in detail with my break in procedure

somewhere on the Internet, so now we set this up like this, now we'll place the pressure plate on top of here. Conveniently go to the clutch alignment tool and you'll see how easily it goes in and out, which will make it perfectly stab to the transmission as long as it slides in and out like that effortlessly. You're good to tighten it all the way down and that that's it now this thing is ready to go in okay so the video stopped so I'm going to turn off my security cameras and show you how I set it up okay that's basically what you missed the GoPro stopped working it's so cold outside so my phone wasn't working my GoPro wasn't working nothing works except my security camera so I thought I'd improvise and just give you this content so we can get back outside Alright now I'm just using a new nine multilayer steel fel-pro gasket nine one five PT, is a part number.

I have used this in all my

build

s. I'm sure there are better ones out there but this is what I have so that's what I'm going to use now I have the number one cylinder at top dead center along with the cylinder head. I have it at top dead center so when I put it all in everything should be fine so these head bolts are a little long for some reason they said D 16 Y on the box so clearly they aren't and they don't I can return them because I didn't buy them on eBay or anywhere else I bought them for commercial work.

So I'm basically out of a hundred dollars and now I have to spend a hundred more, so okay, so I have to remove them and put the original head bolts back on until I can save up for more RP. I'm a little exhausted. After all this

build

ing and spending all the money on everything I made, I was hoping they would work because they are new in the box, so now I don't even know what they are for, so I'm going to have to take them out, so we have coolant, we have oil, everything is put together, no leaks so far, we haven't turned it on yet, we are about to turn it on for the first time.

I put in some Valvoline manual transmission fluid with timing capability, this is really good, it actually cross referenced Honda manual transmission fluid, so it's a nine dollar bottle at O'Reilly's, but anyway everything It's together, so I'm going to prime the fuel pump twice. I'll try. to increase the RPM in hopes it starts well, but you never know, with the compression so low, you know, the rings aren't broken. I'll rev it to about 2000 rpm, maybe thirty seconds or less and then go out if it can run on its own and make sure there are no leaks. I'll put some heat on it, bring it to where it'll warm up and then we'll turn it off and let it cool down and then I'll go over the rest of the

break

-in process.

Okay, everything looks good, everything sounds good. Now I'm going to let it sit for a minute as a warm up to let everything warm up and expand and then when I

break

it up. I like not to get to 4500 rpm, but I want to get there gradually and do a lot of downshifting. Downshifts are where the engine really starts to work, at least this is the method I've always used with other people. I may tell you otherwise, but this is just the method that works for me doing a lot of reverse compressions from chip downs. I don't know if that makes sense, but the compression goes down constantly, but you don't have much compression from the crankcase it goes up well when you go down a gear, a lot of pressure goes up instead of down, it's a little hard to describe, but we have a lot of hills around here, so I can do a lot of downhill, downshift and gradually increase the RPM.

It's a little easy at first, this is just 5w30 conventional motor oil, nothing crazy, I don't want to use full synthetic or anything like that when braking, as soon as it gets a little hotter we'll continue to turn it off, let it cool down again. down and then we'll take it out and seat those piston rings because this is very crucial, if you don't go for those piston rings, they'll never seat and there will always be smoke, but it's not smoking right now, which is really impressive. because it's really cold right now, so that's a good sign, so let's take it out and break it in and that's basically over and over again, repeating it constantly and slowly increasing the RPM each time, all good.

Everything feels pretty good, so I'll go ahead and give it a little boost, not much, although it's only four pounds so it shouldn't be too bad. I just wanted to see how he responded and feels much more responsive. than the other engine, so I'm very happy with it so far everything looks great, sounds good, looks good, so everything seems to be as it should, everything sounds good, what I recommend when you

install

it is to change it. your oil is between 200 and 500 miles anywhere in that range, get a good oil filter. We have an STP here which is a pretty decent oil filter but I prefer the wicks to all the others, it seems to filter better and the micro shields are pretty good too. but I definitely make sure you have a good oil filter because you want to catch any of those metal shavings that come out of the new build and you don't want to recirculate them throughout the engine too after the second oil change.

It should be good to use full synthetic. I just don't do it during break-in because the full synthetic puts a barrier between the metal and you'll never fully seat the rings and then your Carl will smoke forever and it kind of sucks because I have I've done it before, believe me, yeah, but yeah, so far it seems to be much more responsive you just give it gas and it just wants to go and this is not tuned it's on the other tune so it needs to be dialed back but I could only imagine it if everything was fully settled but it felt good .

I think the downshifts helped as soon as you downshift a certain amount you can feel the power change so you can actually feel the compression going up a bit more it's great because at first there will be a delay when you first start the build and you keep going out and downshifting and slowly increasing the RPMs and stuff like that, then you'll notice more power and more compression, so that's cool, I just try not to do it. get into it or stay in it and try to stay out of the momentum as much as possible while you're in the steal because you don't want to do it wrong, a lot of other people will say to do it as is.

I'm going to drive it and it makes sense, but I've always taken it a little bit more on the safer side and it worked really well for me, so I hope you enjoyed this video. It took a lot of work and effort to make and edit it. posts all of these videos so if you could go ahead and hit the like button, leave a comment below and subscribe to the channel if you haven't already, stay tuned for more because we'll have more once we build up the momentum and get the posts of Air P heads and yes, they should be a lot of fun, so definitely stay tuned.

I'll see you in the next video until then, God bless you, stay safe, be awesome.