Ford 6.4 powerstroke turbo removal. Tips and Tricks

Hello, today I have a 2008 6.4. I'm going to remove the

turbo

s and the way we like to do it here we found works better for us, at least if we raise the body a little bit, that way we have more clearance towards the back. here in the back to remove the exhaust pipes there are other ways you can leave the body alone and just find ways to get to the bolts, you can pull the transmission and reach up and grab them, sometimes we do that in ambulances too or you are. they're different, we could do it that way, but usually on pickup trucks, especially if they have ladder racks or anything else, or loosen the body, lift it up and then take the

turbo

s off.

I'll try to show the highlights as I go, so first. What we're going to do is prep the truck, drain the coolant, pull the body bolts to get the body bolts. You have a couple of options if you heat it here with the map gas to loosen the log and then you can go and hit it with an impact and take them out here that works quite a bit that works I mean, it's effective but you will remove some from time to time just for the constant hammering from the impact the way you hit it the system does this This will loosen the car bolts inside the body so sometimes that is a problem.

Now another tech, not me, came up with this and posted it on Ford's internal website because the way these pipe threaders are, they have constant tension, there's no noise. the body bolt will get stuck inside the cage, it will cock and it will just sit there and spin and get stuck like this and then you can fight them, you don't even have to heat them up or do anything, and what we did here, we just take one of the adapters, weld an extension to it and get the socket that it will fit into here. It's a little heavy and it's very slow, but it's effective.

You just start with the body bolts and it's going to stay there and twist them until they come out right, remove the shift cable, remove the emergency brake cable, we need to get the tabs out here and slide them back and undo them when you release this, make sure Release it slowly so it doesn't spring back too quickly and damage the inside, squeeze the tabs here and then slide the cable out. Well now I want to point out a couple of things because this could be really dangerous, it's very slow this way but it's very effective. and the other is that it has a lot of torque.

I'm going to demonstrate it right here, but you have to remember that you shouldn't have your hands anywhere where you can cut because it could be dangerous, so hold on and wait for him to twist you. You see, it's slow and effective. I'll show you here in this case. Disconnect both batteries. We are going to remove the driver's side battery and the coolant bottle that is along with the battery tray. Remove the locking rings from the top holes. here and also out of the hose down here on the Degas bottle the vent hose up here because we're going to take the hose out here and we're also going to take out the coolant bottle as well make sure every time you do this you want to inspect but you should really replace the ones.

O-rings on the inside because that's when these cooling systems leak a little bit, that's what causes the front cover cavitation, so let's go ahead and take these hoses off and lift up the bottle with the hose removed, lift up the bottle with the sprayer and remove four. The ends of the charge air cooler hoses spray clamps on all ends remove the fuel cooler and cross pipe as a assembly so I'm going to disconnect the hoses here they usually don't leak so no It's a problem, take the fuel. cut the lines and then just remove the heater hose here because they're lifting up the body and there are three bolts holding the whole bracket on and we'll lift it up as we assemble, disconnect the actuator cable and pull the red latch back. here and squeeze it, pull it out, pull it out, disconnect the EBP sensor and you can move the wires out of the way, remove the hose from here to the turbo.

I just set it up here just to prevent leaks now with all the bolts removed. I have the bolts removed here at the bottom of the bracket, both on each valve cover, and you can take everything out as a set. Go ahead and pick this up. You can see the bolts, all three down here. plus the dipstick and then the two bolts here on the valve cover, just move the EVP back, now this is pretty simple, we're just going to remove the air filter assembly, take out the entire air filter and also off the turbo and then remove the turbo so let's get this out of the way remove the crankcase breather and air filter hose as a assembly be careful when you disconnect the one down here that goes to the crankcase because if you end up breaking this or the plastic tube is quite fragile and they break, you can also splice or patch it with just a suitable hose to fix it for this oil resistance, so if you break it, make sure to fix it, but just pay attention. and be careful with it, it doesn't break when you take it off, just take this whole thing out now raising the body three or four inches here, what would anything that doesn't stretch or rise that's separate from that do? down with the engine and the body goes up we want to loosen up here so we're going to disconnect the PCM here the battery cables we're going to take them off here just undo them so they can go down or stay up go up whatever you want to say the trans lines down here on the frame we're going to take the clip out here I'm going to disconnect the steering this here we just want to disconnect this from the body so it lifts the three four inches it won't lift the front end and like I said the steering shaft was going to come undone down here, so go ahead and start focusing on that and get ready to lift the body a little bit, okay weird, this is the passenger side frame rail that lines up here just as the body lifts off the frame, we don't want to stretch them, so we just take it and loosen it that way you can come up with the body here, so now with the blocks. there we have all kinds of clearance here to get to it let's go ahead and start turning on the turbo it makes it a lot easier to get to the back of the turbo this is the driver's side exhaust manifold we loosen both of them back here and then I'll loosen the bracket here that holds it against the block against the cylinder head once you remove the bolts on the driver's side exhaust manifold and then two up here, both on the bracket, then you'll just pull it out. del I know some guys will try to let this joint here not be made to flex and bend, and if you do that you'll end up breaking this pipe, it'll just come back and you'll be looking at adding a pipe that costs over 300 and is not easy to do if you just loosen it, it takes a few more minutes and now getting to the rest of these bolts is much easier, so now we're going to remove these six bolts again. here that holds the uppipe to the turbo I'll also point out here with the body raised so high that you can take this pipe out all the way, otherwise you would normally pull the transmission or do something else to get this pipe out at the rear. here I highly recommend getting a brand new six mil, six point, ten millimeter bushing just because it's much better to make sure you do it right the first time, almost all bushings now have the board unit with Snap-On started and grip, but if you get them all, as you can see here, I have a deep socket with a one inch extension and this is one of the hardest ones, so you can see it hits all of these on these bottom two on both sides.

I'm just using a three inch extension on top of a one inch extension and the same with the Deep and then the flex ratchet and it's even a cheap flex ratchet from Harbor Freight on top of that, the bolts are removed on the back now the six On to the uppipes now to prevent damage, I recommend removing the fuel line here and also removing the oil supply tube. I mean, you have to unscrew it from the turbo. No big deal, just undo the six millimeter head or eight millimeter head bolt down here and then remove it, so we're going to remove the oil supply lines and the fuel line and then we'll come out to this heat shield here remove the heat shield every time the bolts begin to stick in their stop. instantly apply a little more penetrant and instead of trying to force it out because the thread got gummed up, you have a problem, give it a little penetration and tighten it again, lower it and keep reversing it back and forth, try it lightly because it's It's much easier to work with a little bit and then break it up and then try again.

I want to work on penetration and get it out a lot, that will help, but trying to keep forcing it out is not a good answer. Not a good answer now with the shield removed, we have a straight shot down on both holding the anchor bolts here, so now with that removed, I'm going to go ahead and get a long 15 extension to release them. I have two of them here, one in the front and one in the rear, this is what it takes to loosen these bolts, so I wouldn't plan on going in there with a 3 8 ratchet and trying to get this out here. they're pretty tight they're going to fight with you here this is what you're going to pull out twice front and back here pulling them out of there use the magnet to pull them out take it here and pull them out good Now here I'm not going to use a lot of force because I don't want to break anything.

I've never had a problem breaking a head or valve cover, but we're going in here with a crowbar and me. I need the turbo here on this side maybe just move it a few, okay oh come up, now it's up and this is a two person job to lift it, it's pretty heavy here I guess depending on how strong you are. I want to try to get it right, I had to get help and I got it out of the vehicle, just a couple things I'll go over real quick, normally they don't have bolts inside here and this one is all loose, they'll be loose. some of them because normally with the bushings and everything else and you don't have an exhaust leak, they're a lot tighter than that, but as far as having bolts inside here, they're not there, they're just used to assemble them. so expect not to see them if you don't want them to come apart when you take it out feel free to put a couple of bolts in there and also what you want to check make sure you check both sides of your turbo. for endgame for any problems with them for up and down movement, mainly up and down movement, you expect a little bit of endgame, but what I have here in this Turbo, this is actually my problem, this it's seized so that's the problem here with this Turbo, you can see it's been going on for a while here, look at all the burnt oil that's trapped inside this system, this one has problems.

Also, Snap-on makes a tool that I show here in a second to take them out because if we're We're going to service this turbo on some of these, we have to take them off, some of them are pressed in and some of them are bolted on, okay, when you get this, the turbo will separate here from the actuator here, the part that moves. the variable veins inside, so what you have to do now is loosen the nut here and instead of sitting here breaking all this. Snap-on makes a tool is the part number, touch one two two five Tom Apple Paul one two two five takes remove the net here and then you can take it, you can slide a tool over it and you can see here how it does it and the titans against it the same way a pitman arm remover works, you remove it and push it in, so this tool comes in handy here when I make them now, the only other two

tips

I'll give here as far as assembly goes.

I usually don't show reassembly videos, it's pretty much the opposite of what you've done, it's nothing really. If it's extra technical or difficult, let me show you some

tips

. One thing I show here regarding getting back together normally. I will always replace them if you are in a bind or want to take a chance and do it. Doing it twice is up to you and usually I like to go a little extra and put them in, but if you want to do it, you can see here the tapered side that goes down and also during assembly we always glue them on the turbo first. so we'll put the turtles together, we'll put this one inside the turbo, we'll assemble it and make sure it goes all the way in until it's flush, like this, and then of course the turbos will be together when we're. back together with them, so we seal there first, that's our preference with them and then we lubricate all of this, we just put a lot of assembly lubricant all over the place to make sure we don't have any problems, okay? and then up.

What we will do here is make sure that the rear oil drain tube is not bent. Put a new stamp here. We put a lot of anti-seeds around here. This is what we were moving to get it off these pins right here. It would also help if you sprayed them before removing them. I should have shown itand having done it first, as you can see, these here are pretty dry, that was part of what's giving me a problem, but we're going to put a lot of anti-seize in here. We'll even do some extra lubrication right there, new seal here, then we'll lift the turbo down, just lower it down and put it in and once we put it in, we push it in and we have it.

When we're sitting down, we'll use a mirror and make sure it just takes us a couple more seconds to make sure everything is down and sitting, so that's it, but there's one thing I think I'd like to mention just because it's I must. a guy here who helped me. I had a guy here write me and say he really appreciates the videos I make and he wants to make sure. He had one of these top side creepers and I told them I had one. His name was Tim Elias, but he won. He said that he sounds like I'm always stressed when I lean over these motors, mainly because I don't use them.

This as much as it should, so Tim Elias made me a pretty sizable donation to make sure I can buy one of these if I ever need another one, so let me say hello to Tim and say thank you, Mr. Elias, for what you did. For me that really helps especially with my kids and my kids in college this all helps a lot that's all I hope it helps you with this 6-4 turbo

removal

and inspection and if any of this helps you like and subscribe. thank you so much