FULL BUILD - REBUILDING A CRASH DAMAGED BMW M5 COMPETITION

I didn't buy this BMW M5 racing car at auction, someone else did, but they then sold it to me after realizing a problem was preventing them from fixing it. Buying a car

damaged

by an accident is risky, but buying it from someone who could. Not fixing it increases the risk a lot more now, you're probably like me, find a car you want or dream of owning, look on eBay or a car dealer and then put the lowest price first or that just makes me a cheap skid now. In fact I found this BMW M5 on eBay for £33,500, usually these cars cost around £50,000 if not more and it's easy to see why the BMW M5 comp comes with a 4.4 twin turbo V8 which has over 600 BHP .

It's cheaper than that but we'll talk about what I paid later in the video because now I'm thinking maybe it wasn't worth it but on First Impressions some of you might think I'm mad but even on the list and I didn't think This car looked so bad, it had a dent in the front, but really everything from the wing to the back looks in half decent shape and for someone like me who doesn't really have any kind of skill it's more of a self-repairing entry mechanic In the photos of this car you can see it well, it needs a front end, there is no hood, there are no headlights on the bumpers and maybe some coolers too.

The driver's side wing appears to be repairable. The passenger side wing not so much, it would need a new inner wing, which just requires. a little bit of welding and all the airbags blew up including the dash and the two curtain airbags, so really looking at that damage we could probably repair this in a driveway without needing any real special tools and have a decent M5 for much less than the normal price but as always when it comes to cars I'm sure you know it's not that easy and in this specific case there are two reasons why it's not that easy and the first reason that Hannah will explain to you and why. is that the engine is not working, yes this is not working because BMW decides to put their oil coolers at the bottom, in the front of the engine, so if they ever have an accident, they are completely destroyed, so this is All the oil has spilled out of it and you don't have to be a genius to know what happens to an engine when it doesn't have oil, we just have to hope that it didn't run without it, the oil cooler looks like it's freshly taken out of there is the top of the oil cap and there's the pipe, it looks like I definitely think it's destroyed, I mean yeah, it's definitely like taken out, I think you have like an oil feed inside. here and then the oil will go in there is the auxiliary belt oh geez what is that oh is there a pulley there oh that ow that looks like a water pump oh my god there are so many things broken here oh even that is broken the load caller oh Darling, do we get Hannah's approval for the M5?

I mean, don't come after me, but I don't like BMWs, Lally, this is a 4.4 liter, 8 twin turbo, it can have like 1,000 horsepower and look at the interior with four wheel drive too. and you can convert it to rear wheel drive it doesn't have a heated steering wheel it doesn't have a heated steering wheel don't check the key like I never used to lock BMW and then when you keep driving you like Now the engine has to come out of the M5 anyway to do a certain repair, but before we explain why we have to try to put the car in neutral so we can push it into the unit, we have power, we don't have power strangely.

Looks like my jumper pack didn't work so I went looking for a bigger one. The mass is actually in the trunk, so we had to use the terminals under the hood and we got 7.5 volumes. So why is it absolutely nothing, but still nothing, so the only one? Another option was to put the jumper pack directly on the battery in the trunk, but we can't open the trunk because electricity is needed to open the trunk, so we will have to climb through the back seats to access it, unless you I know of an emergency release mechanism that I could have pulled to open the trunk, but I didn't know that, so we'll crawl back from red to red.

If this doesn't work, we have a problem. You have a reading on nothing, no. there are three lines just no reading at all, what works? Yes we have power, we have power on, we have power on, it must be really dead, yes our digital display is fine, so we have digital display, oh, almost a

full

tank of fuel. Come on, there are a lot of flaws. Can you put this in neutral? I don't want to rip it off, that's the thing. Know? If I just press, press to start the engine, press the brake pedal. I don't want to start the engine, that's what it is.

It doesn't have oil. I don't think you can put it in neutral. I can't even release the handbrake. I think what we have to do is get under it. There may be a notch in the gearbox, I'm pretty sure. There will be a notch in the gearbox. We can put it in neutral, but that does not solve the fact that the handbrake does not come off from the back. We're going to need power to release the rear handbrake. Oh, we can open the trunk. open the trunk now open the trunk no we can't well it doesn't look good so far so I got the jack out to see if we can find something at the bottom of the gearbox.

I've seen a video apparently all you need is a flange to do this let's see if that's true there's the box here's the gearbox okay so it's this lever apparently you pull it down and then You tie it to the driveshaft and that will put it in neutral. I'm going to put them there, let's see if I can do this. This turned out to be much more difficult than it looks, the propeller shaft was in the way of this lever and I somehow had to bend the TI rack to hook it over the lever. which puts it in neutral.

I've finished now. I'm only going to get it after playing a bit. I finally put the TI zip through the small hole in the lever and could eventually start tightening it hoping that will happen. I'll put it in neutral, aha, okay, I think if we lower it, oh, a round bridle with two bigger zips, I'm double zip tied keeping that lever down, if that doesn't do it, I don't know what will do that the front wheel moves backwards. wheel it is not necessary to set the handbrake to red for that the button look here yes, okay, the next step see if the handbrake is released, okay, the handbrake does not like to be released, now that I think about it , this is the only BMW I remember that had an electronic handbrake, they all have manual handbrakes.

I thought it was ok to have a manual handbrake but suddenly they decided it was not ok to have one and which means you can't move it when it

crash

es so plan action was to connect the Orel diagnostic to the car and then put the handbrake in service mode, which again didn't seem to work. He doesn't like sounds like a dog. Turn it off. Why doesn't it turn off? It says "Press the brake pedal." I'm pressing the brake and fixed it. I can't believe we finally got the handbrake off and the car was in neutral and now we can start putting the BMW M5 into drive which makes me so excited to get started.

In it, the BMW M5 as is cost me 32,500, it is a category s, which means structural damage, it is A2 2019 and according to the seller it only has 10,000 thousand. M5

competition

with same year, same specs, but didn't

crash

. Looking at between 63 and 65k so in my opinion I think that leaves you with around £10k or so to make this worth it and get it back on the road and be a cheap BMW M5 that was up to the previous owner. I found this damage this is the damage that is going to cause hell there is a huge hole and a big dent in the strut tower which is where the suspension sits and for that reason we believe that the engine has to come out being the category s car , which means structural damage, which it has quite clearly.

Actually, I don't think any of the frame is bent. I think it's all straight, but we'll have to check it to see if anything has obviously moved, but the structure is there to verify. These strut stays right here and well nothing has moved you can't see the strut towers moved back left to right or crooked anyway the bolts seem to be in the same place and on this side yeah , everything is the same on that side. With these chassis legs, this part looks good, that part seems to be gone, but we can measure everything, but I think this hole was caused by something going straight through the hood.

I don't think it's any kind of tension in the suspension. This caused it to look like something literally hit the hood, went through it and punched that huge hole and the worst part is I think the strut tower is made of a special cast aluminum that needs to be attached to the frame of the car. This is a huge piece and a vital part of the engine and it actually goes all the way up there and further down the back as well and I don't think we'll try it, but I don't think we'll be able to do it. get to it and attach it and remove it and put a new one on without removing the entire engine because I don't think we have enough room to play with here but if it's just that part to replace the front end and the airbags this could be a cheap repair , but if the engine is fine, the only positive thing about this is that if the engine has to come out anyway to repair it, then if there is any damage to the engine, we can fix it while it is off, but that could be very expensive, so I believe, I think and I hope I am right in saying this.

I want to run this engine first before I start taking it apart to see if it actually works and the way I'm going to do that is I want to bridge the oil line from here to here so we don't go through the oil cooler which is obviously broken and then it should contain oil in the engine and fingers crossed it works fine, here we go while I had the M5. In the air I had a quick inspection to see if I can see any more damage but everything looked good so now I'm removing the hose from one end of the oil cooler and then I can remove the old oil cooler.

So I have this super long silicone hose that I'm going to use to connect one oil cooler hose to the other, completely bypassing the front oil cooler. Obviously this is not a long term solution, but it should work to start the car, since the BMW is a newer car, it has no dipstick, so there is no way to know how much oil is actually in the engine, so what I'm going to do is drop what's left of the oil into my oil vat and then I'm going to refill it with the amount of oil it needs, well there's supposed to be 10 and 1/2 liters in this engine and it's just that It didn't even come out 3 and 1/2, so I'm going to put this back on top of some old oil or something, we just want to see if it's working, of course, I'm going to replace the oil at some point, but yeah, It doesn't look good at the moment, the only good thing.

What you can deduce from this is that I didn't notice any metal fragments or anything unusual in the oil that came out before trying to light it. I'm going to remove this induction tube just to check that there's no plastic or any debris that has gone down and into the turbos because if I turn it on and there is we could cause some serious damage there but everything looks good and there's no play in the turbo either. Turbo. Let's hope it stays that way at this point. I don't know, I don't know if this has a pyrotechnic fuse, which is the fuse that blows when the airbags activate.

I've had a look back here and it looks like there's something missing on this part, but other than that, I don't see that it actually has one, so I think it'll just be trial and error. Oh, how positive you feel. No, I feel a little more fun. I just hope it doesn't sound a bit. Yes, if it starts ringing. crazy I'll turn it off right now that's a good idea buddy just double check the oil now because if it helps if you need help with your vehicle because of a wait please wait in the customer service line and select the customer menu, how do I put it? the phone hung up I don't know if you have been, are you in any trouble?

Yes, I have the front end hanging off the car. Okay, here we go, we're just going to send it. That start? No, that WIP, he doesn't want this. to go oh oh I know, I know, I know, I still have it in neutral underneath ah aha, okay, yeah, then it should be in the park. I think this is it, I should be in the park now. oh, this is the mess and this is. What is the risk about? I'm going to do it. Okay, I'm going to do it. I still don't look. The only thing I can think of is if this car has a Parro Technics fuse that would blow, right? that's a pyrotechnic fuse, but to be honest I couldn't really see anything obvious, if this doesn't then power isn't the problem, it's a power, so we just resorted and used a larger jumper pack with the hoping it would just work.

I don't have enough power to start, come on, it doesn't want to, it's nothing. I have my foot as hard as I can on the brakes. I'm pressing the start and stop button literally nothing happens so still no luck. there must be a fuseWhat counts are these weak points that BMW placed in the frame rails. They are there, so if you have an accident that is a head-on accident, the frame rails can crush inward and bend easily. if they didn't have them it's possible that the frame would end up inside the car, but none of the weak points seem to be cracked, bent or twisted in any way, so in my opinion I think we're done, but that strut tower is far from over. be ready to go.

I need to remove the front wing and everything around that strut tower so we can get a better look and see if there is any further damage. There is a bolt on the inside of the wing here and I can't open the door all the way to get to it, so I have to lower the car and somehow move it forward so I can open the door and get the latch in the back of the wing, we ended up putting Two Jacks on the frame rails and then pushing the car forward so I could actually open the door to get to that latch and there it is, with super dramatic music, I was able to undo the last latch to get the We removed the spoiler front and once we did that we were able to push the BMW onto the ramp and I was able to start removing all the wiring and hoses surrounding that strut tower but the more I remove the more I have in the back of my Mind how the heck This thing is going to be put back together and there's an exposed strut tower there, but oh, this is not going to be an easy job.

I knew this was going to be difficult, but it's definitely going to be one of the biggest challenges so far. I have the strut tower exposed now that the damage is done, it's pretty clear that we can't get away with just repairing that with a load of fiberglass or something, but this strut tower is huge, look how far it goes, you can see where the panel ends because of all this seam sealant here between the two panels and it doesn't just go down here, the seam sealant goes out there and since this is cast aluminum, it's not welded, it's all riveted with These special rivets here and I guess they're also bonded and not only here it's all bonded and riveted also on the wheel arch.

Look how many rivets there are holding this to the car. I guess there have to be many. of rivets anyway because you imagine the force of the suspension pushing that thing up. I have to get this right, otherwise this whole car could be a mess. I can't take it out 1mm because the suspension would be completely gone. The place and get this BMW can tell me the parts and they are a lot cheaper than you think but like Porsche they can't tell me how they are put together because it is a structural link so it seems If I have a right challenge on my hands, first of all we know that none of this strut tower has moved, this has just been an impact from something that went straight through the hood and into that strut tower and also this strut tower is made of aluminum and is super smooth , so it literally absorbed all the impact and all these bolts in the strut and everything is still aligned, nothing moves down here and everything is in place, this part on the other hand is not so straight. and this front part is still and can be removed in sections this is a section that is a section this is a section in the back here and then this whole Strip Tower is one piece and BMW will sell all these sections and you will be I'm very surprised for the price, but before we get into the price, we need to start removing the

damaged

panels.

Starting with this section, here we need to remove all the seam sealant that covers all the seams between the panels that should give us access. whatever it holds this to and they are these weird used bolts that BMW used and I only found a logical way to remove them, by angled grinding a slot in the middle and then using a screwdriver to loosen them and it finally worked and look at these , they are almost self-tapping screws. I believe these screws are also used in conjunction with the Panel Bond to hold the front panel to the chassis leg.

Once I removed the seam sealer from the top of the panel, a couple of weld spots were revealed. Out came the angle grinder and of course the spot welding drill is real, but wait, there's more holding it down. This steel panel is attached to the aluminum strut tower using rivets at the bottom. Here you can see four of them and there will be many of them. In this video the best way I found to remove the rivets was to drill through the head, punch them and tap them on the other side and finally we should be able to remove them so this section is now closed what this section is supposed to look like here and the next step would be to remove this tower of strips, but before we do that and start working with it, there are a few things we need to clarify.

Number one. Some of you said why not. I just put a separate piece of metal here because nothing has moved and well, that seems like the most logical thing, we can't do that because this strut tower is cast aluminum, it's all one piece and it's part of the structure like that cut out. Putting a part of another strut tower to weld onto this one would compromise the structural integrity of the car and probably ruin it as well and number two, how can I be 100% sure everything is okay? without using a template, welcome to Matt Armstrong's School of Physics, we have a tread width here and this is actually what they use in body shops and it's even what BMW uses to measure the frame.

This thing cost £600 but it might save the day when we can use it. this now instead of a tape measure to get a super accurate measurement now, although BMW can't help us with any shop manuals or how to do anything, many of you have been doing my detective work and have actually sent me some of the measures. than the M5 should be, I just have to measure my M5 to make sure it matches the correct measurements. Hit in the middle, hit the SP backwards, if it was 8 800, you can see here 854, oh, there we go from a to a. what is the a point of an 854 that is straight, it is literally a bump, there is not even a mill, there is not even a mill outside, but that is not all, there are many other measurements that we need to make and it is a good peace of mind to know. that this thing is nice and straight before we start dismantling the rest of the panels, let's see if the strut towers moved, that the Trum gauge is turning out to be a brilliant tool now, surprisingly, this is not a genuine BMW tour, this might surprise you all but this is actually done and you could do this at home all you have to do is go to my dad's house and remove part of his garage roof and this will be our template like we did it The other day me and my dad designed this incredible masterpiece.

We designed this to bolt to the subframe and then secure it at certain points on the car to make sure that when we remove the strut tower we put it back in the exact same spot where we want it to be 100%. % confident that this shop is going the same way it went now, although we have the actual measurements of where the shock should be, we just wanted to make this idiot proof since you guys know I'm not a mechanic and I'm far from be. a body shop, so we just take these extra steps, but this tool will make it almost impossible to put it in the wrong place.

I guess we're about to find out if we need a professional to do this job or if I can do it. on my unit I waited for another one with our special jig tool installed and my dad laughed as he started to remove this strut tower, as I mentioned this is aluminum and not welded in place it uses Bond panel and a lot of rivets to break the Bond panel we are using a lot of heat and we are using the same technique to remove the rivets that I did on the front panel. I can't wait another day, we're so far away.

Hope

full

y it's hours drilling rivets and Now we're almost ready to start trying to separate the shock tower, the strut tower from the rest of the car, so this little piece here we were going to replace and I actually bought a piece here that we'll go through . The prices on everything here were very cheap so I thought I'd buy it just in case, but I think we could get away with it and it will give us another point of reference when we put up the strut tower. but now all these rivet holes are drilled. If you can take a look here, all of these rivet holes are drilled.

The next thing holding this together is the entire Bond panel, so we just need to heat everything up with a blowtorch and hopefully that. Peel off the Bond panel and then we can remove it from the car. Good news, so let's see how it goes. We can't damage anything and we can't move this to the wrong place. It's very easy to Bol on Bol outside of work there, so remember these strange guys. There were similar bolts in these holes before and when you ask to replace them, they don't replace them. These are like the self-tapping ones, but these are the ones you replace with and they're like some strange wrench heads Alen yes This is still going well I'm not even going to say it I think let's keep going surprisingly everything was going well which is strange for such a job big.

I'm just going to put some screws in and measure it to make sure. It's bang, the device is on, it's all online and you can see here, you see that the accessory on the top, you can see, you see that, you see this is absolutely bang, I can't believe it's working, we just gotta to do it for real now, the second time we put those bolts in, next thing is to remove everything, add the binding, drill the holes for the rivets and that's it, although this job so far was very time consuming, surprisingly it wasn't. Wrong but I really didn't want to speak too soon, all I'm doing now is using the holes left in the car as guides to drill the holes in the strut tower to fit all the new rivets in and trust me.

There are a lot of them, this takes a lot of force with the rivet holes drilled and now I need to remove the strut tower and since I needed to cut this panel to fit the new strut tower I'm going to have to replace it. I just have to be careful, I don't catch fire and it's not just spot welded. I discovered that it is also attached to the panel. BMW didn't really want this to move, but it ended up like this. The cleaner BMW sent me to do the job is simply labeled R1 and I just have to use it to clean the surfaces where the strut tower will meet the rest of the car and of course use it on the strut tower like Well, because after that I'm going to use this Bond panel.

I had to order it from BMW and it's a mix of two pieces in a tube. You put this special nozzle on the end and when you use your gun, you push it out. Mix both mixtures now all I have to do is apply it as evenly as possible and then move on to the Strut Tower and I wasn't quite sure how much time I had before Bond fixed the panel so I was very quick to place all the nuts and bolts and start placing those rivets at this point. Okay, let's move on to the Bond panel.

There's no turning back now, but that's pretty solid. We have the type of self-tapping screws we need. We have the bolts lined up, we think everything is in place and ready to go. All holes are lined up, ready for rivets. These are the rivets that BMW sent me. They are the ones they used. Don't know. I'm sure they are the exact same ones they used when they actually put the car together. I think these are the ones that are used for a repair, the other ones are done with a machine I guess, so I have to put them next and It won't be easy to push them in and to do that I have the number one option which is a riveter.

I think it might have enough power to do it and if it doesn't have enough power to do it then. We have option number two, which is the big, sturdy hand riveter, but we're running out of time. I have to start doing it before the whole panel joint is set, so let's do this, come on, oh my gosh, that's crazy. hard oh oh oh my goodness, about 20 months ago with a questionable noise. I continued putting in all the rivets. I decided to use the hand gun as it was much better at breaking the end of the rivets than the electric gun.

With the strut tower in place the next thing to do is this front panel and to make sure it was absolutely perfect I decided to also fit the Slam panel I bought, that way I can be a little more sure that I am putting it in exactly the same place now this front panel is made of steel but it is not connected to the chassis leg by welding it, it's just a few screws and panel B and there we go, the bolt holes are practically snapped into place. the center of the slam panel and just to be sure of course we can use the tram gauge to measure it now where this steel part meets the aluminum part of course use rivets and Bond panel on the top, so I have to drill the holes for the rivets and then remove the panel again, clean all the surfaces where it will be attached, place the panel.

Glue and then reinstall the front panel, this time for real. The screws on the bottom of the panel I think just help hold the panel together. to each panel and thenIt's with the rivets on the top which was surprisingly better than I thought and there's one final piece that's a little different than the rest, it's all connected, we have the front. slam panel just to make sure everything lines up everything is riveted and there's a lot of joint there that's still a little sticky but there's one last part here that's steel so it's a little bit different how these aluminum pieces go.

I'm still very surprised that that's all that holds up on this piece that looks so incomplete, but I guess that's how BMW does it, so now this is steel on steel, so it will be spot welded. Spot welded here too and then r Ed along the bottom here because it's attached to an aluminum part at the bottom, so we can't work steel to aluminum and then again at the steel to aluminum joint, We have to put a burden. of rivets down there, so God help me with that you guys seem to be getting the picture here and I seem to be getting the gist of things now, most of these panels are simply joined together as panels and then riveted together, unless make it steel or steel and then it's spot welded so after I've lined it all up and drilled all the holes I can clean it again using the BMW special cleaner and now I can use the BMW special panel adhesive and I have to use a different panel adhesive in this section here because It's steel on steel so BMW sent a different one for this panel and then they reattach the panel with some world primer ready to spot weld it to the rest of the car.

What a job this thing is. My dad comes with the spot welds and with the belt sander we can sand them all down so they're nice and flush and looking as clean as possible and you know, there's almost a complete front end. I literally can't believe we managed to pull this off. I really hope I can do it. I've done this right, I dare say we're not done yet, but it was a little easier than I thought, as long as everything lines up these parts at the top, it's where all the wings mount, so we'll find out if all they line up, they should because we've done it, this would have taken a lot less time if we'd done it sooner, but since we hadn't done it before, I kind of made sure I was doing it right. so I hope everything is fine, all we have to do now is seal all the gaps like here where BMW has sealed all the gaps here with this sealant.

I'm going to try to get it as close as possible to make it which is probably going to be difficult so all of this has to be sealed and then once sealed it can be painted and that's what Chris is here for, professional painter, yeah, I hope they don't paint everything for you. around the unit, how do they actually get it like that? I think it will be a machine that does it, but the videos seen look for a nice wide nozzle, they flatten it and waste it, yes, they use it as a flat nozzle and then they go like lit, it's like that before taking out the sealant, I have to remove the front panel and get everything nice and clean and ready to prime and paint, but the primer and paint goes over the sealant and this is The sealer here again, another BMW special, but this was all pretty cheap and here I go in a I'm trying to make this look as OEM as possible and if I'm being completely honest, I'm absolutely bad at this. m I'm really embarrassed about it, but hey, it's doing its job and at least trying, that hasn't really gone as well as I planned at the beginning and I'm not going to show it to you.

Because you're probably going to laugh at me, so instead I'm going to mask it all off, paint it, and then show it to you because it might look a little better with a little paint. I saw it was a boy. Back to yeah, just before I show you and it's not that bad, let's go over the prices, so the paint and everything is £70 and believe it or not, all the parts we've used so far on the car, all the parts structural. and the BMW panels, silicone, sealant and everything else only cost £300 so far, which I think is an absolute bargain, so we're on the winning side so far.

I also have to say it was cheap because we have to do it. Shout out to sitner sit sitner us shout out to sitner because I actually have a discount code there Matt 15. I put a link in the description box below. You can get genuine BMW parts at discount with the link in description on sitner leester, regards guys. Now keep in mind that most of this is covered by the engine plastics. Here's a picture of the engine bay right now, so you won't be able to see it, but let me show you. Here we are. First of all, the paint is perfect, it matches very well, although this side is very clean and shiny and that side is very dusty and dull.

The paint 10 out of 10. I think the repair also 10 out of 10, but my roof is fine, there is no other. way of saying it it's bullshit but on the other hand it's doing its job, it's sealing the panels where they join so that water doesn't get between them and start to rust or corrode even though it's aluminum but this part is steel, but other than that, I think we've done a pretty good job and what's even better than that, when we measure all the points like we did before everything worked, we can measure from that rope tower to that rope tower and we can take the measurement from here to here and everything is absolutely perfect so the next step is to start reassembling that engine and getting to the damage and then we can start putting it all back together and it looks like I have a great job with this , so this monstrosity connected to the gearbox is a 4L twin-turbo V8 engine and I'm sure everyone will agree that it's pretty ugly, there are so many cables, wires and hoses, and half of them.

I have no idea what they do, a lot of things are broken, but what we're going to do before we try to move this to the engine, I have to start repairing all the parts that are broken, like the inlet manifold here, which is a Manifold plastic entrance. I think we have the water pump here where the pulley is also broken and if I put this engine in before doing all that it's just going to cause problems for me trying to do it inside the engine so I guess I'd better start here: the manifold intake and this is the last place the air has to go through before entering the combustion chamber and it is pretty damaged and that will cause some serious air leaks, not to mention if it absorbs any plastic it would cause a pretty catastrophic failure of the engine.

There are two of these intake manifolds on this engine, one for the four cylinders on the left side and one for the four cylinders on the right side of the engine, if I tried to remove the intake manifold while it was in the car, you can imagine what a nightmare would have been and in fact I seemed to have gotten lucky in the previous episodes when I started the car because there are some huge pieces of plastic in there, but I have almost removed all the bolts and here is the new one, we will talk about prices later, but for a bit of plastic, BMW was surprisingly expensive, now I just have to change the sensor from the previous one. on the new one and then I can bolt the throttle body to the new intake manifold.

This is what controls the flow of air entering the engine and is electronically controlled by the accelerator pedal. Once I have it bolted to the intake manifold, I can get started. putting it back on the engine and now I'm removing the other charge cooler so I can access the water pump pulley here which looks like it took quite a beating from the crash again the water pump does what it says on the Now pump the water through the motor. I've never worked on a BMW M5 before so I'm learning as I go and the only thing I've learned so far is that working on this engine is a nightmare. you have to remove so many different things to get to that thing you need to get to the water pump is off this seems like a lot of stress and here's the water pump and we're just going to change this just for that plastic pulley over there the thermostat housing It's at the extreme, here's the new one, which is BMW branded and that's it.

I can't imagine there's any reason you'd ever change this on a car, it doesn't seem like something that can be fixed, but come on. this on and I think the rest of us should be able to do it in the car before some mandatory updates. You're right. I'll be fine after I get the engine back in the car and running again before changing the water pumps. finished, I'm going to transfer the thermostat housing with the thermostat to the new water pump and then start connecting it to the engine without forgetting all the pipes, hoses and cables that are now connected to make the water pump work. a belt to turn the pulley and belt on this M5, well it has seen better days and looks like it came loose during the accident, but here we have a new belt from BMW.

I just have to figure out which direction it takes root. around the entire pulley, this pulley here that I am turning is the tensioner and by turning it I can remove the old belt and to put the new one on I will turn the tensioner again and then I will shim a little in the center. drill the hole to prevent the tensioner from getting tight, then I just hope I rooted this belt the right way because the only thing that seems strange is that the belt has ribbing, but the water pump pulley is super smooth so You should just hold on tight.

I'm calling him. I think this is almost ready to go back in. There are still some damaged parts. The cargo coolers are missing, but all the damaged stuff, the cargo coolers and everything that should be able to. arrive with the engine running and actually it will probably be easier because I won't be kneeling on the floor doing it, but not before making some vital improvements, most of these BMWs have adaptive suspension so when you press the sport button, the Rod Heart gets stiffer when you press Comfort it gets softer and that's all done with this shock and the control that connects there and I wanted to keep that if I changed the full suspension unit you'd lose it and you'd end up with a warning light on the dashboard, but I wanted to be able to shift into High gear, which is exactly what these things will do.

KW adjustable springs. It would be stupid not to do this while it's available. It will probably be the easiest. suspension installation I have ever done. I don't even have to separate it from the wheel hub. I have my spring compressor on because I don't want to lose the teeth when I disconnect the top bracket and once I disconnect the top. assembly I can take it off the strut along with the spring and compressor, how easy was that and to put these KW springs on you are supposed to press the lower spring seat and I don't have a press so next thing was a hammer Best thing is that it did the job and once off I can clean the throttle and then press the new KW adjustable spring mount into the bottom stop and the dust cover spring top mount bushing and then the top mount KW suspension into the next mod, It is not necessary, but it is almost a necessity.

While we take out the downpipes, we will change them for better ones and we will shout that Automotive evolve to solve these because these will be these. To go from 9 out of 10 to 10 out of 10, there are countless downpipes and I think they also remove OPF, so on European cars you have these horrible OPF filters that make the car like a help? Yeah, what did you say? They make it sound like nonsense, but this will solve my problem. Okay, let's put this. Not only should the M5 sound better with these downpipes but it will also help the engine breathe better which in turn increases performance and these cars are not slow to start as usual removing the downpipes is not As simple as we thought, there are a lot of heat shields in the way along with cables and a bunch of sensors since it's a VA8. two downspouts, that means there are two lambar sensors for each downspout.

I have to remove them all so I can remove the heat shield to access both city pipes and now it's just a matter of removing all the bolts and brackets. so you can separate the downpipes from the engine and continue with the new evolved downpipes. This job wasn't the easiest doing it with the engine off, so I could only imagine what this would have been like if the engine was on. so we should save a lot of time here, which took a lot longer than initially anticipated and would have been horrible to do with the car engine.

The only thing we're stuck with now are these probes that were located in the opfs and there must be some kind of OPF sensors because they are electrically connected here, but we don't have any opfs anymore so I can only assume this has to be hardcoded into the car, but luckily we have malib for that, so we should be able to adjust it instantly, but it will be interesting to see what happens when we run it without these op sensors for now. I think we're ready to put the engine on the first step. to get the engine and gearbox into position and with the three of us it shouldn't be too difficult to push them into place.

Good,the big V8 engine is now practically lined up to run. I really hope I remembered to plug everything in and now. I just have to slowly lower the car and hope to put some bolts on the top of the strut here through the strut tower that we replaced and then the rest well I think oh God I hope. I'm going to have to improvise. I don't really remember much, but I took a lot of photos. I'm just worried about where it went, but I guess we'll find out, so I'm on my own for this. work, but that shouldn't be a problem because all I have to do is lower the ramp into place and if I can get a bolt to hold the subframe to the car then I should be able to line everything up with that and I actually managed to do it, but I don't have the gearbox mounts yet, it's just held up by this huge jack, so I'm going to crawl under the car, line up all the bolts and position them to hold the gearbox. the frame and now the engine is fully resting on the car which means I can remove the engine mount and the car can fly and now I can get under the car and tighten all the subframe bolts and then start with the electrical connections like the ground wire for the gearbox here then connect the driveshaft to the gearbox there are three bolts that hold it and then there are two support bolts that hold the driveshaft to the car and it's starting to come together .

One last thing though, the steering rack, I have to connect it to the steering column coming out of the car and this job is a little complicated: the steering rack pushes towards the steering column and then there is a bolt that tightens it and the fastened. put it in place and I almost got there with a little bit of a squeeze, now it's on top of the engine which is all the wiring and oh in my day there's a lot of wiring and a lot of plugs that need to be connected but Fortunately, On these new cars you can only connect them one way so it's pretty easy to figure out if you've missed one and it's almost impossible to plug a plug into the wrong connector and I think I've almost got all the electrical connectors in place, it's time to connect the fuel lines, we have a fuel feed and a fuel return and then the coolant reservoir can go back to the top of the engine and then last but not least it's time to connect all the suspension parts, including the brake lines, because the calipers came off with a subframe and that should just about doing it, I hope the engine is running, or I'm getting a little better at this mechanical stuff or that actually wasn't that bad, it seems an absolute disaster and I'm in a bit of a difficult situation at the moment because of the charge call. they are broken I have them here so this one is broken you can see it broke there the other one has a hole but they are not there yet but I am desperate to know if this starts and also listen to those pipes with the exhaust off because you know it's going to be very loud and I know what everyone's thinking, they're probably thinking, don't start it, but I want to start, uh, I.

I think I'll start just to be a little safer. I installed both old charging terminals even though they had damage, but this should prevent the car from having a major air leak and with both installed I can connect. the battery works and we will see if this engine starts properly, this is really going to be absolutely Bob, there is no GPS, there is no coant. I hope I don't regret this, okay, it's so loud, oh my God, oh my God, that. it's so loud the belt looks good it looks good the break time too that's incredibly loud that's mental that's ridiculous that was the first well almost the first crank wo well we actually did something we took out an engine we put it back in We actually fixed something.

I think we've definitely made progress now because we have an engine that runs on a fixed strut tower. The belt seems to have remained in its best progression, although we still have to install the rear springs, but let's have a price update. about how much it costs to get to this point, intake manifold 622 and it was plastic, then we moved on to the water, a pump which cost me £31, fan belt 53, bringing the total repair bill so far to £1346, but that's without the update. parts here we go one is going to be in the center two is going to support the weight of the car if we can drive this outside after this then we have performed some miracles with three fingers and four fingers too This is the precise test of the fingers three three with a little play Let me check it twice, oh my gosh, I think it's like three with a little play, well we're calling my fingers, this is a hit, I think I just need it.

All the tracking so far looks like the new strut tower was a success. Everything seems to be in the right place, but I was dying to see if the M5 would kick in and I could get it out of the unit every time we recorded myself. If we are doubting whether the M5 managed to drive under its own power, we can definitely say that we have made some improvements here we go, but I think I was speaking too soon, this is what you can take away from a BMW M5 and still be. drive it here we go oh I don't have any brakes I don't have any brakes right now even though the car would start I couldn't get it into drive it wouldn't get out of the park um it says put it in gear press pause so it sounds like the commitment of the pause, yes, but it is strange because it let me start because it cannot start without putting my foot on the brake, we think I can't put it in gear because the brakes are not there.

It didn't bleed properly the pedal is pushing to the floor so it's probably not thinking I'm hitting the brake and I put it into gear so we're going to try bleeding the brakes and then give it another chance and I'm going to check all the connections underneath while I'm there, obviously the front brakes came loose when I disconnected the subframe and must have lost a lot of brake fluid when I did that, so let's go the old school route first. ble on the brakes where I'm going to sit in the car, step on the brake pedal while my dad opens the bleed nipples and removes the air from the brake system recycle to start, we are only applying the front brakes because they are the ones that They let go, let's see if they work despite bleeding the brakes I still didn't have a brake pedal, I was pushing to the floor and still couldn't get it into gear.

This is very new and again probably over designed. It's literally like this, normally in a brake system you would have four brake lines, uh, coming out of the master cylinder, one going to the front right, front left, back and the other one going back as well, but this one has six, there's two, yeah , there are two additional brake lines. that go down and into this ABS module here and it looks like all the air in the brake system ends up in these brake lines here that go into that ABS module and it looks like the only way to bleed is to plug in a computer I don't know if the mine will do it, alel's will do it, they use something called Isa, but I'm going to see if that computer would do it and would like to bleed itself, I almost think I'm going to try it, but If we can't bleed the brakes, we can't start it because it looks like the brake pedal is on a pressure sensor, so unless you have brake pressure, it won't recognize that your feet are on the brakes. start it this is ok this is stupid once I logged into the autel I can see a procedure to bleed the brakes which is all connected to the ABS module which appears to be that little computer under the car like this I'm going to see if I can follow the instructions on the autel to see if I can get a brake pedal, after that I'll say when it's okay, continue, so this thing is doing something while it's pumping fluid.

Not when I make that other noise. We had to follow the steps on the computer and it looks like it's bleeding the brakes using that ABS module under the car going corner by corner, we could have S, but it could be talking too soon, it seems strange but it launches it. Isn't it like that now in the computer that we're supposed to have pressure in the master cylinder, so we used this pump and then we almost sank the hole because of course we didn't have the right kit for it, but we'll do it. soon you'll find out if that job is complete, press it, yeah, to the floor, are you kidding, no, really, yeah, no way, Flor, really, yeah, what the hell what in H, what the hell, wow, cool, so My dad and I did the procedure over and over again, I think.

In fact, we did it four times just to try to get as much air out of the system as possible and we got to the point where not a single air bubble was coming out of the calipers, but the brake pedal still wasn't pushing at all. All the way down, we eventually stopped braking and then started thinking it wasn't going into gear because it thinks the hood is open, but we hooked up the new sensors for the hood latch and tricked it into thinking. the hood was closed but it looks like it still didn't work, we still can't get any kind of brake pedal.

We have done the procedure many times, as normally we would bleed the brakes many times, and this is all related to not being able to start it because we have no brake pressure in the brake, so we are picking up where we left off as of right now, we have a real vacuum thing, this is just going to pump pressure into the master. cylinder here giving some pressure to the whole system, which I think is what we needed last time and then we're going to do the same process procedure with the AEL and we'll do it curve by curve and hopefully after that we can get a brake pedal, either this. is it going to work or not.

I'm a little skeptical. Let's see, we are starting with the left rear caliper as indicated on the diagnostic tool and the pressure bleeder is taking the air pressure from the front tire to the bottle and then into the master cylinder and this will provide a constant flow of brake fluid and When we got to the front calipers we noticed chunks of air coming out, we were pretty sure there was some air trapped in these huge tubes that went to this ABS. module here it's just if that pressure bleeder took them out if this works the first time people are going to think we were playing the first time just because of that easy bleed thing try it there's no way this will work no chance here Let's see that we have a pedal.

I was skeptical but when I put my foot on the brake it was solid. I actually have a brain pedal. No way, no way, after all that, I can't believe it works, but will it fit? engage now if this goes into gear now because we have that solid brake pedal it's a miracle it's on good it's good it's not breaking P yes yes it goes in Dr no come on now it works it goes in G it must be a pressure switch Yes yes , now I have a brake pedal and the car finally starts up after putting the engine in, which now means I can continue with the re

build

and we all have a lot of parts to continue with that

build

, but we still have to remove some.

Damaged parts, there were lower front arms that needed to come off and then a lot of damaged and cracked coolant hoses. There are almost two cooling systems on this engine, one cooling system called the engine and then the other one calls the air coming into the engine, giving it more power and you may notice that I still have the original charge coolers on top that are damaged because the new ones haven't arrived yet so I'll have to build this with the old cargo coolers on and then swap them out once I've built the front end which will be a little harder than doing it now but I really want to have this front end on this radiator down here, which I'm disconnecting the pipes from for now is the transmission. cooler and when I disconnect the lines it doesn't seem like there's much oil left in it so we're definitely going to have to top off the gearbox with some oil before we take this thing out on the road and then this follows. new second hand red pack that I bought on ebay which was pretty cheap so I just have to attach all the hose clips and mountains in place ok we are actually getting somewhere now that I have the rad pack in the front and also in each corner I can begin to discover where this loom goes.

Now there are some sockets missing on the end, but I'm starting to figure it out now, so this one would go directly here, which is a switch for the airon. so I can ask for that plug from time to time, this one down here. I still have no idea but I think this has something to do with the parking sensors, I'm not sure what that is and then I also have this huge loom over here that I have. I also have no idea where that goes at this point, but the next thing to do is the front crash bar along with the lower oil cooler, so I'll just slide the crash bar onto the chassis legs and then bolt the bolts on. support bars. up and then we have to move under the car because if you remember the first video to start this car, we bypassed the oil cooler with this huge silicone hose, so I just have to remove the oil cooler hose.silicone and then put it on. the feed and return line to the oil cooler located under the car.

I'm going to stop here at the front right now because I just noticed something here that will increase the build cost a little bit. a lot and right now we are fine, come here. 32,500 is what the BMW M5 and the cheapest M5 cost me with the same specs, a similar mileage rate is 52,900 and 99. I'll come back to that topic in a minute, but for now we have wheels to put on and something special under the car oh my gosh I'm going to do it right oh well this was the full exhaust system that came out of the D pops here and I think I'm sure a lot of you said these are the options not the ones they remove on the lower Pips that's what we've already done on the car then we have a muffler to silence the noise and then a tail box or muffler if you're American but obviously I'm me and the cars we make we won't put back the stock exhaust, we are going to put this full Remis exhaust system on, this is the new exhaust and I feel like I might have made a mistake, sometimes louder is not always better and it looks like this exhaust is going to be incredibly loud, especially since this car is a 4.4L twin turbo V8.

The first thing it turns on are these tubes that replace the OPF filters and then it connects. to these pipes that eliminate that center muffler, then I have to remove the valve system from the old exhaust that allows you to open and close the valves to make it quieter or louder and put them on the new exhaust and you will be able to notice the new exhaust box or silencer is considerably smaller than the previous one. All I have to do now is put all the brackets in place and align the exhaust so that the exhaust tips line up on the back of the deactivator.

I was getting really excited to hear what this exhaust system was going to sound like, like the exhaust was on and it looks as sick as a new Remis, from top to bottom, evolving down the pipes and tight against this exhaust, now still There are still plenty of braces and bottom trays and everything else to go on, but I'm dying to hear it, so I'll let Liam do the honors. This is going to be so loud it's going to be ridiculous, yes this is going to So it's going to be fine, it's going to be a contender with the C63.

I think we still need the coolers loaded, we don't have any coolant, so I'm just going to pour in some coolant. Just so you have a little bit in there, you wanted to fill them to vacuum, but we'll get to that, but just so we can get started. Let's do it, put a little bit in the Remis exhaust, evolve down, let's do it, yeah, and I've got the button for the valves open so I gotta go take a look yeah what's that in Comfort oh Sport Plus Sport Plus oh and now close them and it's the smallest thing it's the smallest okay that's loud that's incredibly loud that's ridiculously loud , we don't see leaks, okay, we have a start, let's go, we have brakes, we have exhaust, we are making some progress, now we just arrived. to put all the struts and trim along the bottom of the car and the work done underneath, but there's one thing we're forgetting since we put the engine back in when I took it out, we upgraded the front suspension to KW adjustable springs, but We left the back, so we have to do it.

Here I am thinking the rear suspension was going to be easy, but obviously not all I literally have to do is remove this shock absorber that's bolted on the other side here. on the wheel hub, but to get to the top mounting bolts right at the top, they go over to the car, which I thought would be behind this mat here, but it's not, it actually turns out that they are somehow behind of this parcel shelf, so I think I have to remove this parcel shelf so we can get to the top mounting bolts and go from there, so who wants me to look?

Getting to that parcel shelf was definitely not easy. I removed the bottom half of the rear bench and then a lot of it. of the shelf was on clips so first i removed all the clips then the trim had to come off each corner and then to remove the parcel shelf i have to take apart both seat belts on each side and once i got the belts out security, There are three bolts holding the upper mount for the rear suspension in a place that's not the easiest to put it on a BMW, but once I'm done with those upper mount bolts, I can go back under the car and undo the large bolt that holds the strut to the wheel hub, then there is just an electrical connector on the top of the suspension that needs to come loose and there we have the strut and spring away from the car to remove the spring.

I'm going to use my spring compressors because again I don't feel like losing any teeth so it's just an 18 mil knot to loosen the top bracket. Now the KW springs use the same shock absorber, but the mainspring seat has to come off and I found the best way to do this was with heat. Lift it up and then knock it down with a hammer. I'm sure you wanted to do it with a vise but I don't have a vise so the hammer was the best option and then I can hit the new KW bottom spring seat. which of course is adjustable, allowing me to adjust the gear up and down depending on whether I change the wheels to a larger size or not, but by keeping the same strut it allows me to keep that adaptive suspension that stiffens it up when on sport. mode and it softens it when it's in Comfort mode, so it's a win-win situation and now that we have it assembled, I can put it all back in the car, one bolt in the wheel hub and then those three bolts . to squeeze on top of the stru tower and that's job done, it's starting to look more complete now.

I would say the ride height in the rear with the stock wheels now looks pretty perfect and then when we move on to the front again I think it's absolutely great, we still have all the body panels to put on the front , so it may sit a little lower in the front with those original alloys and then also in the rear. I haven't put this together. rear parcel shelf yet because we need to send these seat belts to be reset because obviously the voltage would have probably gone through even though the seat belts still move but we will find out that it is better to be safe than sorry and send these in addition to Remove the front ones, which are also completely blocked, and the front airbags will be a different story.

Now remember when I said this was about to get pretty expensive so far to get to the point we are at. I'm currently on the hoses, crash bar and rad package. It cost me an extra 1100, but I actually managed to find a second hand bumper on eBay that is actually the same color as the car. The problem is that we are. It's missing a lot of parts and I think those parts have something to do with these two wiring harnesses here on this bumper you have holes for a parking sensor there a parking sensor there there there there and there too the problem is that there are some Here there are cutouts that look like little square ECU modules of some kind and when I look at the parts diagram of this car I can see that these little ECU modules in each corner and there is something to do with the lane departure warning sensor or something like that. that and they each cost £530 each and we seem to be missing one and two and furthermore it could get worse depending on whether this M5 was specced with a radar sensor found around here or sometimes in the Bumper lower, I'm not so sure, that it actually detects where the car is in front so it can maintain the same speed.

If I have to order one of them you can see here they cost £1,619 and that's just for the sensor there is for all the brackets and everything you need to keep it in place and not to mention the loom that goes on it too, so this could really be where all the little parts add a lot more to the price of the build unless we can find some second hand ones that would potentially work, but then we had the problem of probably coding them into the car. I don't really know how it works. If you know, let me know in the comments section below.

Don't you think it looks better? Do it right. Yes, it looks more like a car, yes, but I don't like it. Yeah, I just don't like BMW. Wow, I'm so sorry. Bin screensaver installed a new windscreen costing £400, bringing the Bild total to £. 35.3 46 I just hope you don't regret putting in that new windshield when I replace the dash later in the video, but the good news is that we got some parts. These are charge operated coolers that are I'm going to replace the broken charge calls we put in just to get this car running massive thanks to Imran at Evol for sorting them out.

They're CSF load calls and I guess they're going to rate the load much better and I. I'm right, unlike your normal intercooler which is located at the front of the car, these loaded coolers are water cooled. A separate water pump pumps water through radiators at the front of the car which you can see here, then air cools the water and then it is sent directly through the charge coolers and at the same time the turbo pushes hot air into through the charge cooler which is cooled by the water passing through it, then it leaves the charge cooler and goes directly to the engine, all I have left is What you have to do is put the new ones on the bottom of the charge cooler .

You can see the throttle body here and then right at the top you can see the turbos. Because of how compact this engine compartment is, it makes it really difficult to do anything in the car. with the engine in, so removing these charge coolers wasn't easy, but once they're off I can transfer everything from the old ones to the new ones, like the two boost pressure sensors that do exactly what they say on the tin and tell you to the ECU. how much air the engines take in and then we can adjust the air fuel ratio based on those numbers so they are pretty vital sensors and then to finish off there are some small hoses left and it looks a lot better we can almost add coolant to the system now you're excited to finally put some coolant in here and then Chris noticed something, take a look down here, that bottom hose has a pretty big hole in it.

Oh I'm going to order one of them now from BMW so I can finally put coolant in it now it's time to tackle the electronics of the car and this is where it gets expensive and I'm going to throw it all in the Deep pen now this was £1,600 for the pair of headlights and I just hope this works. Headlights are my nemesis, especially on newer cars. They have so many different variations that even one difference may cause them to not work on this M5. I think I have the correct part numbers and there is only one digit difference. between the left side headlight and the right side headlight, first let's turn it on from the back, okay, it's plugged in, okay, that's the better of the two, here we go, okay, let's see if they work.

I'm excited. oh it's on oh jesus one oh oh no that's not a good start oh no so we have one on but not the other oh dear how you feel oh no but maybe it needs to be turned on for the first time those cool ones In fact, try turning it on. Maybe you'll never know, maybe it's like maybe I have faith ready, okay, the good news is that one, come on, no, no, but wait, that one has gone off, you won't believe it, what's going on there, what are you doing? I want it to happen I want them both to come How come that one didn't light up?

It's weird how that one works at first and then that one works. Because it does not work? Why is it always headlights now? You may have noticed that there are two. coolant reservoirs on the M5 and that's because there are two call systems, one coolant system calls the charge coolers that we talked about, which is the smaller coolant reservoir, which I think I'll get away with just pouring in the coolant to look at that concentration and then the The other cooling system is for the engine, but I can't just start pouring coolant into this coolant reservoir.

The engine cooling system has to be vacuum filled, which means I need this special tool. The compressor will blow air through this airline and through here. which creates a vacuum that sucks air out of the cooling system when I open this tap and we should see a rise in pressure which hopefully will hold showing that there are no leaks in the system and this is the actual way BMWs say that it has to be done. otherwise a lot of air bubbles appear in the system, so let's do it now, the tool is creating a vacuum in the cooling system and you can see the pressure here, now we are going to close the tap, we should see that it maintains the pressure, but unfortunately in this case it looks like the pressure is dropping which means we have a leak somewhere, we just need to find it.

I literally can't win with this car. There is another holein this hose. Look at it, that little hole there. Well that's a good job, we tested it under vacuum, otherwise we would have lost a lot of coolant instead of ordering another new coolant hose. I can see that the small hole is at the top of the hose, so what I'm going to try to do instead. I cut off the metal clip that holds it to the plastic connector at the top of the hose and once that's removed, I'm going to trim the hose down to just above where the pin hole is.

I probably shouldn't use a Dremel, but it was in my hand, so I can slide the hose back into the plastic fitting and hopefully now the pin hole won't leak coolant, so it's time to put it back on the second turn and after testing the vacuum again it looks like we could be completely clean, it is holding vacuum and because the cooling system is now creating vacuum I can put this hose on the coolant bottle, open the tap and it will suck all the coolant out of the bottle into the cooling system. system that way we won't have airlocks and we're not even done yet.

BMW likes to complicate things even more than that. Turn on the ignition. Select the highest temperature on the air conditioner. Now, this is not a joke, this is the real way. BMW tells you how to properly bleed the cooling system, the heater has to be on the highest setting and the fans on the lowest setting, after that I have to hold the accelerator for 10 seconds with the ignition on, which should activate something. It's kind of a self-bleeding system with all the water pumps in the car and you can hear it working now, so you're supposed to leave it there for 12 to 13 minutes, so while I'm waiting for it to finish, I'll use those 12 or 13 minutes to start putting together more of the car at the front.

Now when I first bought the car it didn't even have a front end, it was completely destroyed so putting this all together was a bit difficult as it's something I never got off the ground in the first place before moving on to the electrical aspects and the bodywork, or there is one last thing we are missing from the engine and that is the air filters and, of course, we have not opted for original filters. I'm excited about this one. I already opened it because I couldn't wait again. Shout to evolve Automotive in Ran. Look at these bad boys, even CH is the shots.

The way they work is basically a conical air filter, but in reverse. It actually makes a lot more sense because the centrifugal centrifugal centrifugal is like a centrifugal flow instead of from small to large, it's from large to small, which creates a centrifugal flow force. They're going to go either way here and I want to hear what they sound like. Also I don't know if it will affect the sound where Darth's attenuator will sound the most, but let's put these on and then the engine will be done and dusted, hopefully we'll cross our fingers and have the rest of the car to take care of putting them on.

The first thing we need to do with this induction kit is a heat shield. It's pretty obvious what they do and they go on both sides of the engine because there are two air filters on this car and then there is a protective tape to put around the inside of this part because then the carbon air filter housing slides through of them and that tape keeps it from getting scratched and then self explanatory from there, they fit exactly the same way the original filters would have fit and while I was doing that. Kevin decided to start recycling and there were two final pieces to put on the air shrouds in the front that should help guide that cooling.

The air in the new induction system, look at them, it's full of Carnage, now I have to clean the engine bay and also some little brackets that sit here and then rest there for the heat shield, but I can't wait to get this started and just listen to see if this makes any difference to the sound. We know that the performance will probably increase, but I don't know about the sound. So we have these air intakes that direct cold air. flow there and hopefully into these big filters, but it won't actually direct anything. He stood still, but Hannah is about to start now and we're going to find out how much you love this BMW.

Great, but now that we have the coolant, we can get this car up to temperature and give it some revs too, let's see if it's going to sound different. I don't know well. I can't hear anything on EXO. I can't hear any difference. around here the exhaust is very loud all of us looking have check engine light on the tire pressure retention system why are you doing all this when the airbags still need to work? why are you doing all this when the airbags need to work? Hannah was right. I got a little carried away with the updates when there's still a lot more to fix on this M5, but look how good it looks.

I just finished all that and then realized I'd missed these turbo inlet pipe things, they look absolutely crazy. I thought the originals seemed a bit restrictive, they are plastic and I better put them in, okay this is the last update before I repaired this M5 and this one doesn't count because it was part of the induction kit. but after all this, any work we need to do on the engine should be finished. Look, that's a mental looking engine bay, full carbon intakes, now down to the turbos and then to the gold charge coolers, but we still have We have this to deal with and we still have all this to deal with.

Well, I've been putting it off long enough. We need to make this board, as you all already know, there is a lot of air inside. this M5 and when the airbags deploy, especially the passenger side ones, most of the time, it means you have to remove the entire dash, but not only is the passenger side airbag gone in this car, the curtain airbags are gone , the steering wheel airbag disappeared and also The knee airbag is no longer there because we cannot repair the dashboard that is already in the M5. The benefit of buying a brand new one is that we can see where all the bolt holes are, where this comes off.

We can see the holes there. and there, but the painful ones are these two right here, which means we're going to have to take out the entire center console to get to those bolts, but other than that, I don't think it looks that bad, but I've said it. Now, if you ever think about making a dash at home, I would advise that the best thing to do is to remove both seats first and that's exactly what I'm doing here. I couldn't imagine removing a dash without removing the seats first, it just gives you a lot more room to move around the car and look at the mess inside this M5 now these seats are far from light, there is a huge power loom that connects to the bottom of them and they are completely electric, which made it much harder to get them out now.

I'm going to have to remove this center console here to access the two bolt holes that we can see on the new dash, which appear to be attached to the frame of the car and to do that. so I'll start from the back of the center console and work my way up. The first time I removed a dash to install an airbag was last year on the GOL R and since then we've done a lot and from what I know, I've learned that you just can't cut corners. Sometimes I try to remove the dash without taking the center console and it always comes down to having to remove that center console, so this time I'm not going to beat around the bush.

I found the two 10ms on the front of the center console that hold it to the chassis, then I just have to find the rest of the 10ms that do the same job, another good technique I used on the Porsche GT3 in Florida. was that every time I removed a bolt I put it back in the hole it came from after removing the trim that way it's very easy to organize where exactly the bolts come from and now I can access two bolts that hold the center console to the dash we're almost there the craziest thing about this what I just discovered is that to remove this center console you have to remove the dash, which doesn't make sense even though I removed those two bolts there and all the 10 ms that hold the center console to the frame of the car, I can lift it up but I can't get it out because of the way the dash is shaped here, so if you look when I pull it, I literally can't slide it out.

I removed it because the dash overlaps here, but the good news now is that you should be able to remove the dash without removing all of this, although I had to remove everything to get to those bolts, there you live and learn, so now I'm moving on to finally removing the dashboard, but before I get to that, I have to remove the steering wheel along with the steering wheel airbag. I lifted the spring on the watch just to make sure it doesn't spin when I turn it on. remove it since we've made that mistake before and then I'm going to remove the wiper stalks.

This is so that when the dash is finally loose you can lift it up over the steering column and the more stuff you remove, the more bolts you will reveal. and we just have to work on it little by little, some will be in obvious places and some will not so obvious, but having that new board ready at hand made life a lot easier because now we can see where everything is that I can see here on the On the right side there are about three or four bolts that hold it to the frame and one of them was hidden inside this compartment on the right side here, in fact I think there were two in there, another tip I would give when making a board. is to make sure you remove it and put a new one back on the same day, that way your memory will be fresh and the longer you leave it the more you will forget where things went, but if you plan to do it again several days and then it takes a lot of photos on your phone.

I think one of the hardest things about putting it back is figuring out where all the wires are connected, and if you don't get it right the first time you could end up taking it. Go out again to re-root the cables, which is really frustrating, but right now I have enough wiggle room to slide the center console back and finally get the dash out once and for all. Yes, I do. The old board is gone. It wasn't that bad, I actually could be getting a little better at this. I've certainly had a lot of practice. The new dash here now comes with a passenger side airbag already bolted into the entire dash.

It was £1,100, which I think. It's quite expensive for a dash with an airbag, but it's because it also has this Malarkey head-up display, so you have to make sure it's correct, in fact, yes, the stitching is exactly the same. I think it's like a full toggle board with gray stitching, yeah I think. now what time is it 9:36 9:36 let's get your Dash back at 10:36 yes 10:36 let's go It was a race against time could we have the new dash in 1 hour? I think we're probably being a bit ambitious but now we know where it's all going I don't see why it's not okay, quarter 10 we've got 15 minutes left Liam smashing it plugs now look they're just plugs yeah they're just plugs plugs I'm an electrician and an electrician just plug things in apparently yeah all you have to do is plug things in, plugs and plugs they just plug in yeah there aren't many plugs okay let's make some plugin it's actually the plugin that makes this job very consuming time, you can't rush something like this if you leave one of those.

If the connectors aren't plugged in then there's something on the board that's not going to work and I don't want to be the guy who has to take everything apart to plug a little connector back in, but Liam and I were making good progress. Now putting the instrument cluster back on and I was working on the left side of the car to put all the trim on made life so much easier that I just left the bolts in the holes where they came from as it were. We were looking for a bolt that had been placed in the middle of nowhere, finally the dash was on the steering wheel and all we had left to do was put the entire center console back together, which was a little frustrating because a few things had to be done. go in certain order £329 39p has to come up here and that was for the knee airbag and it was straight from BMW.

I couldn't find one anywhere else Liam what time is it half 10 yes half 10 10 10:25 yes half 10 we have how many 10 minutes to spare, yes, yes, 10 minutes to SP, we did it, we absolutely did it, check it out, although we didn't, we were an hour longer, it took us 2 hours to get back in, but we also did a center console and we also did the center console. Yeah, you know, I'd actually be interested to see how the book Time For That went because I think 2 hours was a couple of hours, so I'd guess four. hours, four hours of full work doing this and I don't have a steering wheel airbag, we still have to do the curtain airbags, um, but it's all done and it's got my back, Liam, how many bolts are left?

No, actually there are no bolts left. We are getting so much better at this, there are literally no screws left, we broke it, whether we left anything unplugged or not that's another story, so before we deal with this situation, we have some unfinished work thatdo. the interior and clearly good, we are not done like in the GT3, all the airbags have been deployed in the M5 and what is in this box here are some new curtain airbags. In the last video we covered most of the passenger side airbag system. airbag that forced me to change the entire dashboard, but we still have a lot left and one of them is the curtain airbags, which are held on with these non-reusable clips that are a nightmare to remove and then some T30 bolts to hold it against the frame of the car remember that these curtain airbags have to be very well secured because when the cartridge turns on the airbag you don't want the airbag to fly around the car and now we have the old one out, here is the new one with all the clips and a new air bag container.

I tried to find them second hand on eBay but no luck so I ended up buying them directly from BMW but the price wasn't that bad but more on prices later. the video, but now that the curtain airbag is installed, I can start placing all the decorative pieces and start making the interior of the M5 look like an interior again and of course I have to do the same on the work done with driver's side curtain airbags. There is one more airbag missing and that is, of course, the steering wheel airbag. This one was broken, but before we get into the steering wheel airbag, I need to remove this steering wheel because we have some good stuff for it, this is the old shifter and wait.

There, Imran from Evolution got us some new paddle shifters operated to disconnect the electrical system from the old paddle shifters. There's just a slide pin that we have to take out and then the electrical system literally just takes out the old paddle shifters and then everything I have. What I need to do is get the electrical system and spring and connect them to the new shift paddles and slide that pin back again. Once I've done that, I'll push the paddle shifters towards the back of the steering wheel. There is an electrical connector and another. Torx bolt to hold it.

I'll just do the other one and then we'll put it in the car. It's the little improvements like this that really make the difference in making a car yours, but let's not get distracted, we still have it. To solve this problem, here is the new steering wheel airbag, but then we have to move on to another part of the restraint system and that would be the seat belts that everyone should already know from watching my videos when the airbags deploy in a car usually locks the seat belts, thus pulling the passenger or driver back in the seat, so the airbag does not deploy directly in your face.

Now, luckily, in this case I didn't have to buy four new seat belts. I sent the seat belts. to the airbag team where they put new tensioners in, you can see the cans here on each seatbelt, which still isn't the cheapest, it's £399 for all four, but to buy new seatbelts with tensioners from BMW, you're Looking About £300 per seat belt so not a bad saving, installing the seat belts isn't too difficult but if you don't make sure the seat belts are in the right place when fitting them you are likely to It just got blocked. so you have to be careful to a certain extent, once I put the driver's side seat belt on, I can put the trim back on so it looks nice and neat again and then I have to put the rear seat belts on and they sit right under the parcel shelf, the M5 is really getting me going today, the interior is back in place and looks fresh, the best it's looked since I've had the car, it looks super clean here but There is one thing we still don't know since then.

We are putting the board in, we haven't checked to make sure everything works. There were so many electrical connectors, bolts and all kinds of things behind this board and we want to see if it works. We're ok. I haven't started it. but the dash is on we have so many warning lights oh wow oh no no no no no no no that's not working, a car? oh oh oh, it worked oh, it works, sometimes it works one thing we do there is still a warning line from the restraint system and that is because we are not done with the restraint system yet, the next part of the restraint system has to see with the hood hinges and you can see them here and they are on both hinges on each side.

I managed to get a new set of these hinges on eBay for £15. which is still pretty expensive for these little things, but at BMW it's a lot more expensive, I think these things are actually called pedestrian protectors and they are designed to protect a pedestrian if you hit them. You can see the hood rises here when The Pedestrian hits it to act as a sort of cushion for the poor guy when he hits the Bonnet. Now that M have been detonated, they are not going to detonate again and that is why I need to replace them and because of how bad the Bonnet was. twisted and bent, I'm also going to replace the hood hinges.

In my experience I have found this to be a very good idea as when you buy a new hood and try to align it it can sometimes be really difficult if there is a slight bend in the hood hinge and it is really hard to tell so that sometimes it is much better to just get new hinges, but we are still not entirely clear in order for the protectors to detonate, we need sensors. On the front of the car, the thing about this is that I'm still not quite sure how they work. There is a sensor on each end of the car with some sort of vacuum line and when it is pinched it activates something in the sensor that pushes. those pedestrian protectors up and this, well, I'll show you where this line goes and the sensors go into this piece of foam that sits on the crash bar and I guess if that airline gets a pinch or registers an impact, then it will send a signal to the pedestrian protectors to open the hood hinges up and with those installed I can now slide it over the front crash bar and then it comes on with new wiring that I had to buy from BMW again, more expense on each one of these plugs.

It's going to be plugged into something that I know is going to be expensive because it's electric, but the good news is that the restraint system is almost there. One last thing, the Channel's all-time favorite, the Pyro fuse, this thing breaks when the airbags deploy preventing you from starting the car because what this pyrotechnic fuse does goes on this side here everything this one does fuse is to isolate the power going directly to the starter motor so you can no longer start the car now to get a BMW pyrotechnic fuse you have to buy this whole section like most cars which costs over £550 but just google the partner with the Pyro fuse $21.99 off eBay and in fact they are used on most cars even Rolls Royce use this enter it if you have missed a few episodes then We have been able to start the car without going through the Pyro fuse and if you ever buy an accident damaged car that won't start this is the best place to start, we can avoid moving the wire that is at the Pyro fuse to the main one.

The body electrical system is again very sketchy but seems to work for short term use anyway, but now that I have all the airbags and restraint system I feel comfortable enough to put the Parro fuse back in. and fortunately in the BMW it is not in a too complicated state. Difficult situation, moving on to the situation with my headlights. I bought two headlights second hand and although they have the correct part number, only one seems to work. How come it didn't turn on? These were £800 each and I hope no money was wasted. the left headlight for no reason does not work but the right one works completely fine so apparently I have been talking to defined coding on Instagram and he says that now many of the electrical parts and modules of the BMWs and many more new cars are locked to the VIN of that car, especially if you're putting a second hand part on, you're trying to prevent people from stealing parts and then putting them on other cars, we could have a stolen headlight or we could do everything we need. is to code it for the car, which is more than likely.

I don't think it was stolen but we are about to find out that I had to plug this cable into an OBD port which then goes to an Ethernet cable on the laptop and then it was defined. coding was able to remotely code the car okay one just turned on that was like 2 seconds come on. Defines the encoding, absolute legend that took about 3 seconds. Legend, here's the plan, there's a problem we're going to get to. but of course we are missing body panels and this has to go to the body shop at some point in its life.

This is the old Wing or Fender, if you're American I thought it could be saved, it doesn't look too bad, but this thing has It was dented and maybe it could have been taken out, in fact, oh no, everything was wrinkled, that's why, yeah, everything is wrinkled so I looked on eBay and couldn't find anything except BMW, about a couple hundred for a new BMW wing. so at least one fit guaranteed. I just want to screw it in with some screws because of course the body shops have to take it out again and they're going to be mad at me if I put it in correctly.

Better, we already have the plastics for Ste to take out, that's One Wing on the hood in the next step. Here we have a new BMW bonnet, which was surprisingly cheap. We'll get to all the prices in the end. It was a lot cheaper than buying a new second hand one on eBay, in fact it was about the same price, but the convenience of having a new one, Chris, come on, okay, you're all good, finally the M5 is starting to work. if it wasn't for that mistake in the last video, I filled it with the vacuum and actually ran it until this happened.

The colon started flying out of somewhere and was thrown into the auxiliary belt which made it very difficult to figure out where it came from so I actually made two mistakes here and one I think the coolant line is the one at the bottom here and It turns out that I think it's rubbing against the belt and it rubs, so I'm completely wrong, I think. I rooted a coolant hose in the completely wrong direction which led it to rest on the auxiliary belt and that is what caused this hole here and 77 lbs later a new hose arrived this time.

I have to make sure I root the the right way and once I've installed it, I have to vacuum fill the coant again, which means placing the vacuum filler in the expansion tank, blowing air through it to suck vacuum and make sure it holds before putting in some more. The coolant sucked in well, it holds a vacuum so there should be no leaks in the engine cooling system which brings me to mistake number two and I actually have an excuse for this one, it's not really my fault. I brought in the wrong coolant. BMWs take green coolant. thanks to everyone who commented and said I should use green coolant, not red.

I asked the parts place where I got the coolant to call BMW and they sent me red so I just trusted them and well I was wrong. It was green, let's soak it all up and then we could put the bumper on and take it out on the road. Now I am very excited to drive an M5 for the first time and with the transmission system vacuum full, I have Now I have to fill the charge cooling side which has a separate expansion tank, but here is mistake number three. You can see on the gauge that the vacuum was dropping before I even added coolant, but I completely ignored it and still added coolant and soon found out why I shouldn't do that just when you think you've done it and bled the system.

There is more. There are too many cooling systems in this car, like this radiator. These are the only last few hoses I haven't made. replaced and you can see up there that the hose should have the smallest of pinols inside and there is the one that goes, this one is on the top of the radiator, do you replace this radiator? Yeah, okay, yeah, replace that radiator so it's on top and that one. it's leaking from the hose, you can see it up there, oh my gosh, that side is the charge cooler side, the engine side seems fine, the charge cooler side is not fine here, hopefully that's the final culprit, the smallest of holes is holding all this in. car back but that shouldn't stop me from putting it on a trailer where I can get the second hand hood, spoiler and bumper I managed to pick up painted at the body shop but I'm starting to think some of you guys were right , these are all parts receipts.

I'm not going to write down each part individually but the remaining parts I bought have cost me another £2700 which now brings the total build cost including the car to £39.5169. and the cheapest on AO Trader at right now, which is a similar year and the specs are £51.1,190, but that's not damaged by aaccident so we're really narrowing it down but I think we're going to have an amazing M5 after this now there are some obvious things that need to be fixed on the M5 and some not so obvious things and well this is one of them although I bought one new battery for the M5 because the other one was dead, I still have to start it. with a battery pack and well let me explain why the BMW comes with a lithium battery which is very expensive and mine was completely dead so I tried replacing it with a regular lead acid battery which was still 250 and it worked for a time.

Yeah and then it stopped working now it should start now with the battery connected no problem just check the clocks here if I give it a REV the clock does it l literally doesn't even have enough power for it to accelerate and it doesn't seem to charge the battery like this which clearly I can't use a normal battery, it even has an F power supply on the board and although it goes in and out of the unit it doesn't last long before it dies so I literally had no choice but to buy a new one from BMW that cost just under 642.

Now we all know how expensive lithium batteries are. The good news is the bumper that is on it and on both fronts. The wing fenders, if you're American, have already been painted, we'll get to the price later, but for now I need to install them on the car and it will start to look more like an M5 after this, we're getting started. simple we have to remove the front wheel so we can attach the spoiler and now that it is painted it will start to make the car look more complete, there are some bolts on the top of the spoiler, inside the spoiler and then one where you have to open the door to access it on the top of the driver's side wing.

There is also a washer bottle that is located inside and it contains all the fluid for washing the screen and finally the M5 trims and then it is exactly the same for the passenger side, other than this it does not have a washer bottle inside, both wings are in the next step, which could be expensive, but it actually turns out that it wasn't that bad now that you see the loom on the front and it's got all these different plugs. I actually found out where these plugs come from now and the main issue would have been does this car have a radar sensor for that adaptive cruise control that follows the car in front, but we know we don't. that's because on the steering wheel there is no button here for the adaptive cruise control to follow the car in front so I didn't have to buy the radar but the plug in the loom is still there but I tell you what about these two things that are Parking assist stuff, yeah that's how it works.

I'll cut the rest off, then we realized there was no part of the Loom that actually connected to those parking assist sensors, looks like we don't need it. No, I don't think we need it? You might have to take them out and you could resell them maybe or you could have them and confuse the next owner and make them think why they're not plugged in, we'll see, let's put them in. All together, so I could have potentially saved some money on those parking sensors, but I could always sell them. The next thing to do is the small camera that goes between the kidney grilles and after that, the car needs a problem with the ambient air temperature sensor.

There were two plugs that could potentially go in the only way to find out which one was for Liam to get in the car, yes, yes, immediately, yes, and a sensational. Next up are the kidney grills. I bought them cheap on eBay because they are not The genuine ones are copies but I don't think you can tell the difference and almost the last piece of the puzzle is the front bumper and it is really starting to fit now but we are missing the arch liners on both sides, so we're going to have to order them from BMW now with this so we can see if the parking sensors work because if they don't, we have to turn it back up, yeah, yeah, and, the beep and the camera, the camera . camera on camera is on not crushed you destroyed the belt when you were doing that oh yeah okay there might be a problem I knew was a problem but I thought I could probably get away with it so this and this is part of my auxiliary belt.

I remember when I put the auxiliary belt on it looked like the bottom pulley was a little bent, but when I ran it everything worked fine, but I ordered, I ordered a new pulley, but I put the whole front part on before putting it on. I thought it would be fine and now it clearly isn't, maybe I should put this in the lesson learned. I should have changed it in the first place because now it's right down there and the radiator fan is practically in the way, so even though this is a super tight space to access the four bolts, I still somehow manage to get it out on this one. spot.

I hope this is actually what's bent and not the bit on the end of the crank because well, it looks straight, but I don't know, we're going to put the new one on, so by squeezing it harder I managed to put the new one on and just to test Whether it was actually something that was bent or not, I put the old damaged belt back on. He made sure everything was in place. I started the car and everything looked good, we just needed a new auxiliary belt. Yes, it worked, we just need a new canister and then we can continue with the rest of the car.

Come on, so we are ordering a new auxiliary belt along with the front one. Arch Linings too, but in the meantime I could put everything back together properly once we have a belt and everything, we could also figure out why we have this airbag light still on even though we replaced all the airbags. I was hoping it was just a case of clearing the fault codes, but it turned out that it was nowhere near the airbag driver's resistance, it was too low, so the KN airbag underneath, there was a fault with the KN airbag and if you remember, we bought a new one from BMW in the previous video like you.

I can see here, so there has to be something wrong with the airbag or the wiring connecting it. I removed the airbag but everything looks good and also the wiring went in so now we have to test if there is any fault with the Knee Airbag the maximum it should be is 5.4 and the minimum it should be is 1.3 and is zero so the airbag was reading 0 ohms when plugged in and 25 ohms when not plugged in so the airbag was braced. when it's plugged in it says it's a problem with the airbag but the only thing I can do now is put it back in place because I wanted to get the car on the road but then we'll try to return it to BMW so then it's defective. yes because it's plugged in yes it's faulty it's faulty so it's gled it looks like tomorrow we'll go to BMW for a lot of things for a lot of things yes we're now very close to the M5 being back on the road for the first time . time since the accident, but one thing we haven't done is put new oil in, which will be necessary, especially since this will go on the dyno later in the video, the oil filter was changed and now BM has delivered the rest of the the lower trays and the front arch liners, as well as the knee airbag, well that's a different story and we'll have to cover that later in the video, but the front arch liners are now They look really smart along with the rest of the M5 goes down from the bottom trays and 9 and 1/2 liters of oil go in and last but definitely not least the freshly painted hood that they called Hannah to help me clean. put it.

This will be one of the most spectacular parts of the work to properly align the hood and all the panel spaces. The best way I found is to leave the hood loose, close it without the hood latches and edge it until it's perfect and there's all the engine and engine plastics all inside. The place looks very smart and that is a BMW M5. This satisfaction is real and in fact, Hannah, I'll let you do it because you love BMW so much that you'll be able to make the final piece. weird no, I don't think you can, you can do it, yeah, do you like it now?

No well I think it looks very good but very good everyone has seen a standard BMW M5 and now this is where things get interesting before we go and drive it's time to add some modifications now what Is it better than not having a divider? A carbon fiber front splitter of course, so now that's exactly what Hannah and I fit in and the black rear diffuser is nice and all, but what's better than that of course? There is also a carbon fiber rear diffuser, so Hannah and I are installing one of those as well with the carbon fiber diffuser.

There are little side fins that also go with it and they look pretty good now that the standard black spoiler is fine, but what's better than a standard black spoiler? a carbon fiber one of course, so Hannah and I are going to attach one of them, but it turns out that the tape provided with the spoiler wasn't as strong as we thought, so we ditched it and in the end used a tiger seal to glue it the carbon fiber trunk spoiler, the company where I bought that carbon material did not sell the side skirt, so I ended up buying them on eBay and well, this is what it came, it said carbon in the title and look clearly at its condition.

I don't know what it looks like on camera but they're definitely not carbon, sort of a fake copy of carbon submerged in water, well and truly trapped, they're coming back now that there was still more carbon to put in the car, but I had a quote . at the wheel Mania and I couldn't disappoint them, so I had no choice but to drive it, since I almost forgot the license plates. Thanks again. The UMR plates always classify us with the license plates. Let me clarify it. Yes, it's a little strange. Pretty good, we're doing well. I'm 5 seconds away and now I have a drivetrain crash and can't handle it over 2000 revs.

This car will be one of those cars because it has many sensors. I don't know if this has to do with the induction kit, if it has anything to do with the exhaust, I don't know in limp mode or not. I finally made it to Wheel Mania, the place for all wheels and for wheel renewal, of course not. I actually don't think the original wheels on the M5 look that bad, but there is definitely room for improvement and to make the car look more like mine, well I'm missing some, my license plates fell off, well maybe because that went limp. mode I totally forgot what wheels I ordered because I ordered these wheels when I literally bought the car because I was excited to get on it so this will be the first time I'll see them in person oh they're good they look.

Sick, so these are the BMW M5 wheels, they go for 11 by 21 in the RAR and 9 by 21, I forgot what 1 in um width I ordered 8 in I ordered, you know what, I don't know how much they're going to run. the color of the car, do you think they will be? I think it will be a good contrast, yes, I think it will be good because everyone will want me to use black wheels because they already have black wheels, but I am already over the black wheels. Now, let's see how they look. Now that you've seen the alloys, let me know what you think.

I'm not sure they'll work with the color of the car, but worst case scenario, I can restore them here, so whenever you want. I'm trying to find a fit for Wheels, what is the process to get it to fit perfectly? Just message me personally and I'll take advantage of it. No space required. Just send WhatsApp to the number. WhatsApp the number and George is right. I've been coming. Wheel Mania for years and they always get the right spot. It's a proper family business that really cares about customers and if you need alloys for your car, leave your WhatsApp number in the description box below.

Go blow up your phone, but now the wheels are already installed, you know what? I think it looks 10 out of 10 and I would never have chosen this color, but I don't want to show it to you just yet. I need to finish this car. with all those electrical faults and all kinds before we show you and there's more coal to continue, so let's get back to the unit. It's very interesting, first drive in limp mode at less than 2 RPM, but I've been doing a little research and I think I know why, but Before we continue, we have a few things here to fit and a few things here to fix, so this part of the steering column here, which should move back and forth, up and down, doesn't really work, oh, sometimes it works, but sometimes it doesn't.

It doesn't work, but this is the perfect time for me to not only change this because one actually came with the board and I didn't fit it, but also to make another mod. The first step is to disconnect the battery and that is because We are going to remove the airbag from the steering wheel and once the airbag is removed from the steering wheel, we can loosen the bolt that holds the steering wheel to the steering column. Once that's off, I can access the lower panel that's under the steering wheel, which has all of those switches and the faulty trim switch as well and now we can remove that one and replace it with hopefully the good one.

Once installed we can move on to the next premium mod as that also works, but I can adapt that mod. I have disassembledThat has made a big difference. I can't believe how much difference it makes, we have an M5 to give to Craig, he bought three £30 tickets and he's taking my M5 and 2000 cash from me, that's the worst. Driving done, all the nerves and stuff on the phone. I was shaking like Le reck, your neighbors will enjoy that my L is going to be exactly the same. She hates love C. This is one of my dreams. cars, oh, are you going to keep it for AIT?

I'll keep it for a while, yeah, as long as I can put it that way, as long as I can, what a win for Cretti, absolutely exciting, this is the best part. then goodbye M5