Italy's Amalfi Coast

Hi, I'm Rick Steves, enjoying more of the best of Europe. And this time, we're exploring the spectacular Amalfi Coast area of ​​Italy, and somewhere here we'll find a blue grotto. Thank you for joining us. Just south of Naples are some of Italy's most beloved attractions. Along a stunning

coast

line, you'll find modern resort towns, ancient ruins and charming island getaways. Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, long frequented by celebrities, remain a hit with travelers today. We will start with the charms of southern Italy in Sorrento, try traditional Italian food with a fun twist, drive along the spectacular Amalfi

coast

, enjoying its cliffside towns, stroll in the shadow of the Greek temples in Paestum and we will take a cruise. to the seductive Island of Capri, with its romantic Blue Grotto.

In southern Europe, Italy juts into the Mediterranean Sea. The coast that extends south of Naples is full of temptations. From our base in Sorrento, we explore the Amalfi Coast, stopping in the towns of Positano and Amalfi. After visiting the temples of Paestum, we sail to the Island of Capri. Nestled on a ledge under the mountains and above the sea, dotted with lemon and orange trees, Sorrento is an attractive tourist city of 20,000 inhabitants and, in summer, the same number of tourists. Serene Sorrento is well located, both as a springboard for regional sightseeing and as a great place to simply stay and wander around.

Although located just an hour south of wild and crazy Naples, the Sorrentines have gone to great lengths to create a completely safe and stylish place for tourists to come, relax and enjoy spending their money. While the city is hot and packed with tourists during the summer, we are here in mid-April. The weather is pleasant and most of those enjoying fun in the Sorrento sun are locals. Sorrento dates back to the time of ancient Greece. In fact, the word "Sorrento" comes from the Greek word meaning "mermaid." In his legendary Odyssey, Ulysses sailed past and conquered the treacherous allure of the seductive sirens.

In doing so, he opened this region to colonization. For the ancient Greeks, places like Sorrento were the Wild West. The city's original Greek street plan survives east to west for the most sunlight and north to south for the prevailing, cooling breezes. While the breeze is welcome in summer, as far back as ancient times, documents report that locals complained about the cold winter wind. Sorrento's back streets give a glimpse into both its long history and rich culture. This 13th century palace recalls a turbulent time. It did not have balconies for security reasons. Small shrines decorate walls throughout southern Italy.

The Catholic faithful pray to Mary in the hope that she will defend them in heaven. Italians venerate Mary and Italian men also venerate her mothers. Still, Italian men have incorporated women-free zones into their lives. Here at the Sorrento Men's Club, men (and only men) play cards and gossip under a historic city emblem and a 16th-century frescoed dome. Although it was originally a place where the city's nobles met, today this is the club for working class boys. Strictly no women and no phones. From the old center, an ancient street zigzags to Marina Grande, the historic port of Sorrento.

Just before reaching the port, you pass through an ancient Greek gate, a reminder that Marina Grande was always a separate city with its own proud residents. It is said that even their cats look different. The Sorrentines believe that, because this section of the city was closed outside the fortified wall during pirate raids, the inhabitants of Marina Grande descend from Saracen or Turkish pirate stock. The Sorrentinos still scare their children by telling them: "Behave or the Turks will take you away." Nowadays, the "Turks" of Marina Grande are not very threatening. The port's economy is still based on its colorful fishing fleet and, more recently, its many seafood restaurants.

The family-run Ristorante Delfino sources its seafood directly from the fisherman's boat. Tempting dishes are enthusiastically served to hungry locals on the pier. Greeting. Greetings, Signore. Steves: Lemons are everywhere around here. All other tents are lemon yellow. Stores bottle their own citrus delights and are generous with samples. When it comes to fruit stalls in Sorrento, take heed. On the Amalfi Coast, there is always something to learn in this land where lemons are more than lemonade. In Sorrento there are lemons everywhere. Tell me about your lemons. They are typical Sorrento lemons, okay? That's... it's the fur. Oh that's nice.

With this we make limoncello. I can smell the limoncello. Yes. Well, which one is the biggest? This big one is Cedar. We heat this with extra virgin olive oil and salt near the fish. So with dinner, with fish? Yes. Yes. Very nice. Thank you. Thank you. Bye bye. Hello. Hello. Steves: Surprises visitors, right in the center of the city, a cozy lemon tree. An abundant orchard offers locals and tourists a fragrant and peaceful walk. At the rustic store, end your visit with a tasting of the region's favorite liquor, limoncello. While there are many beaches near Sorrento, many hotels offer travelers an attractive alternative.

Our Hotel Minerva is like a temple for sun lovers, with a spectacular terrace overlooking the Mediterranean and a small pool located on a cliff. This place offers everything I'm looking for: an efficient lobby and cozy lounge, and a simple room with a good bed and an excellent view. During the high season, many tourist hotels require half board. That means you have to buy lunch or dinner there. It's a reasonable policy, designed to keep hotel restaurants busy, but I prefer a hotel like this, one that leaves meals optional so I can go out and find the restaurant I want.

And tonight, that restaurant is Il Buco. Once the basement of an ancient monastery, today it is a small, elegant restaurant serving deliciously presented and top quality food. They display good wine and offer elegant service. In the state-of-the-art kitchen, chefs pride themselves on taking a playful attitude with traditional Italian dishes. In my guides, I strive to list places with practical ownership. Il Buco's owner, Peppe, designs his menu around what's fresh and lovingly explains each dish to his guests. Peppe: Generally it's spaghetti vongole, but we want to play with tradition. We make a little distraction in this dish with some pasta and clams on the other side.

Just forgive the idea of ​​using your finger: clean the clams, put your hand in and play with the spaghetti. Enjoy your meal. Can I rearrange it my way? Yes, thank you very much. Steves: And on a nice afternoon in Sorrento, the streets are filled with people enjoying a nice passegiata. For many, a stop at the ice cream shop is a regular part of family night. Gelateria Davide is sure to have the flavor that suits your mood. Please read the delicious chorus carefully before placing the order. Thank you. Hello. Hello. This is not a festival, it is simply another night: a celebration of community in the Mediterranean world.

With all this action on the streets, who wants to go home? Sorrento is the ideal base for exploring the stunning Amalfi Coast. Tourists line up every morning, filling the buses that make the day trip memorable. But this is the case where I hire a taxi driver, like Raffaele Monetti, to be my driver and guide. Is it time to take a trip through Amalfi? Yes, good. Steves: But, especially for a small group, when you take into account the value of your time and the frustration of trying to explore an expensive and congested part of the Italian coast on your own, a day with your own driver can be a great option .

Yes. The Amalfi Coast is chaotic, picturesque, life-loving Italy at its finest. With its stunning landscapes, spectacular port towns and historic ruins, Amalfi is Italy's coastline with the most. Whether you travel by bus or taxi, the trip south from Sorrento is one of the best road trips in the world. You'll gain respect for the Italian engineers who first built the road and even more respect for the bus drivers who drive it. Cantilevered hotels and villas cling to the vertical terrain, and beautiful sandy coves peek out from far below. As you hyperventilate, watch the Mediterranean truly sparkle. Traffic is so heavy that private tour buses are only allowed to go south.

Still, due to the narrow roads and sharp turns, expect some delays... And enjoy the show. Beautiful. See the engineering here. Monetti: This path is very, very old. It is about 750 years old. 750 years? Yes. To make this road, it takes about 150 years from Sorrento to Salerno. Specializing in scenery, shopping and sand, the resort town of Positano is located on the most spectacular stretch of coastline. Only one street in Positano allows motorized traffic; the rest are steep pedestrian lanes. Because bus access is so limited and hotels do not accept large groups, the city - unlike Sorrento - has been spared the impact of large bus tourism.

The town is trapped in a ravine, with narrow pedestrian-only streets cascading down to the port. The skyline looks like it did a century ago: strict building codes prevent modern structures. The shallow domes on the city roofs are filled with sand. These provide insulation: cool in summer and warm in winter. Positano's steep streets are a way of life for its 4,000 residents. It is a pleasant gathering of cafes, galleries and boutiques. There's little to do here except eat, window shop, and enjoy the beach and views, and that's exactly how many visitors like it. The beach is a relaxed setting.

Boats ferry visitors in and out, young Romeos hone their craft... And the café crowd watches it all unfold. There's really no way to avoid the climbs that accompany this amazing landscape. To save myself a few steps, I enjoy the efficiency of having a cell phone when I'm traveling. You can buy one cheap here or bring one that works in Europe from home. I'm ready to move on, and Raffaele said to just call him to pick him up. Many of the best views of the Amalfi Coast are found just south of Positano. You will see several medieval watchtowers built to warn of Turkish attacks or Saracen pirates.

The towers are very old, from the time of the Saracens. The Saracen pirates? Yes. There are 30 of these along the coast. Yes. Why so many? Because they needed the towers only to warn people that the Saracens were on their way. So was it a warning about attacks? Yes, just a warning. And they warned with a fire at the top of the tower. So each tower has a little bit of fire. Oh, then, real quick, you could spread the word that the Saracens are coming. Yes, and all the people just go from the beach up. Run away from the pirates.

Run away, yes. The Amalfi Coast is named after this city. After the fall of Rome, Amalfi emerged as an independent republic. Harmless as it may seem today, in its heyday in the 10th century, Amalfi was a maritime power. With a commercial fleet that controlled the region, it competed with Genoa and Venice. The Amalfi Republic minted its own coins. He even established the rules of the sea, the basics of which survive today. But in 1343, this small power station was devastated by a tsunami. This disaster, compounded by a deadly plague, left Amalfi in a humble backwater. Today the shipyards, where its mighty galleys were built a thousand years ago, house tourist shops and the former glory of Amalfi's small empire is remembered on this mosaic map.

But tourists seem oblivious to the city's illustrious past. They are here to enjoy the good life under the Amalfi sun. Today, the city lives off tourism and has a cathedral larger than a city of 7,000 inhabitants would deserve. The church's imposing staircase provides an ideal spot for locals. Its extravagant façade is neo-Byzantine and dates only from the 19th century. But this bronze door is a thousand years old and was given to Amalfi by a rich local merchant who had it manufactured in Constantinople. The cathedral is richly decorated. Behind its magnificent 13th-century wooden crucifix, a painting shows St.

Andrew martyred on an X-shaped cross. And St. Andrew himself is buried here. Sacred relics were sources of power in the Middle Ages. Just as Venice needed the bones of Saint Mark to appear on the pilgrimage map, Amalfi got Saint Andrew, one of the apostles who left his nets to join the first fishers of men. The remains of Saint Andrew were brought here from Constantinople in 1206 during the Crusades. This is oneindication of the wealth and importance of Amalfi at that time. Saint Andrew is near and dear to the people of Amalfi because he is credited with saving the city from certain looting and looting back in the 16th century during a pirate raid.

Just when a horrible attack seemed inevitable, a strange storm broke out and the pirate ship was destroyed. This board is all that remains of that ship. This and other treasures from the cathedral are well displayed in the adjacent museum. The Angevin miter, with a paving of small pearls that enhance the gold and gems, has been worn by bishops since the 14th century. The Cloister of Paradise is a quiet and atmospheric place for a rest in the shade. Its elegant columns protect stone sarcophagi, since this was the cemetery of the Amalfi nobles. The bell tower, with its majolica tiles, a regional specialty, rises high above the cathedral.

Just south of the Amalfi Coast lies a dramatic reminder of the rich history of this part of Italy. While many travel all the way to Greece to see Greek ruins, just south of here you can see some wonderful Greek temples. Remember, 500 years BC, southern Italy was called Magna Grecia, "Great Greece." And the wonders of that western border of Greece can be well appreciated in Paestum. The city was founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC. The Romans conquered it in the 3rd century BC. But Paestum's last conquerors, malaria-carrying mosquitoes, kept the site wonderfully deserted for almost a thousand years.

The striking surroundings include the remains of three impressive temples: the solitary Temple of Ceres. The almost delicate Temple of Hera was dedicated to the Greek goddess of marriage in 550 BC. And the highlight, the Temple of Neptune, is simply stunning. Built in 450 BC, it is a classic example of the Doric style. As well preserved and beautiful as the Parthenon in Athens, this massive structure is a tribute to Greek engineering and aesthetics. For a great day trip from Naples, Positano or Sorrento, take the early morning motor boat to the island of Capri. The island of Capri first became famous as the holiday retreat of the Roman emperors.

In the 19th century, it was the place frequented by the aristocrats of the Romantic era on their grand tour of Europe. While the island is small (just four miles by two miles), there is plenty to see and do. To make the most of our quick visit, I'll be meeting up with my friend and fellow tour guide Roberta Mazzarella. Our first stop is the reason most come to Capri: enter the legendary Blue Grotto. The Blue Grotto experience is more than just visiting a cave. Getting there, entering and returning is a picturesque sight. You'll enjoy a quick cruise around the beautiful island, bird watching and local fishermen at work, all under spectacular limestone cliffs.

Most of the island of Capri is like this. Limestone cliffs leading into the beautiful blue waters. Look at this cliff. From the water to the top, the Roman emperors loved this because it was easy to defend. Steves: When you reach the mouth of the grotto, you find a very busy distribution center. As the boatloads of tourists arrive, the waiting boats converge and the visitors cautiously board their small boats. The entrance hole is small. If the water is too rough, it becomes too dangerous: boats cannot enter and visitors are turned away. We are lucky today. There's a small cut, but the boats are squeezing in.

The debauched rowers make their way towards the small hole. Tourists huddle safely under the gunwale. And the guides pull fast and hard on the cable at the lowest point of the waves to get you into the grotto. Inside the 60 meter long cave, the sun reflects off the limestone bottom, giving the grotto its famous bright blue. Your man makes you row, sings a little "'O Sole Mio" and lets you bask in the iridescent magic of the moment. Capri, the larger of the island's two cities, sits on a hill above the port. Piazza Umberto is the main square of this beautiful and touristy commercial city.

The main street is nicknamed "Rodeo Drive" for its unique boutiques. While prices are high, window shopping is free. Nowadays, especially in summer, Capri can be a world-class tourist trap, packed with lanky visitors seeking out the rich and famous and only finding their prices. But other times of the year (we are here in April) offer a relaxing and picturesque break. On the outskirts of the city, elegant villas and a public garden are strategically located to enjoy beautiful views. In stunning Capri, everything is done with panache. The taxis are white convertibles. Although they are expensive, they make getting around an unforgettable part of your visit.

The island's second town, Anacapri, has fewer tourists, a little more character and a passion for colorful majolica tiles. They are majolica tiles. We can see them everywhere: in Naples, on the Amalfi coast and here in Capri, on the domes of churches, on the floors and in the decoration of houses. Steves: And squares like this. And squares like this. Only glazed tiles. What makes them special: the colors. We love colors here. Steves: The city's celebrated San Michele church has a remarkable majolica floor depicting paradise on earth in a classic 18th-century Neapolitan style. Ironically, the floor of the church is so beautiful that the pews for worshipers are replaced by a promenade for tourists.

The entire floor is decorated with tiles and features an angel with a sword expelling Adam and Eve from paradise. The devil is wrapped in the trunk of a tree loaded with apples that cause trouble. The animals, with curiously human expressions, seem blissfully unaware of this momentous event. For expansive views of the island, ride a chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro, Capri's 1,900-foot summit. You will float above lush orchards and well-tended gardens. At the top, you will enjoy the impressive panorama of both the Italian mainland in the distance and the island of Capri. The cliffs are filled with birds, enjoying a short break during their migration, tending picturesque nests and soaring in a constant sea breeze.

The Faraglioni Rocks are an icon of the island, with tour boats passing by every few minutes. And from here the descent is a delight. It's clear to me why the Roman emperors chose this island as a holiday getaway and why so many travelers today include the Amalfi Coast in their travel plans to Italy. Thank you for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep traveling. Hello.