Italy's Riviera: Cinque Terre

Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of Europe's best. This time, we're rebuilding medieval terraces here on the most beautiful stretch of the Mediterranean coast, Italy's Cinque Terre. The Cinque Terre are five small towns like this, beautifully isolated on the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera. For me, the best corners of Italy are traffic-free and, in this unique mix of Italian culture and nature, there is not a Fiat in sight. We'll explore five small rugged port towns, ride a wine train through vineyards, make pesto at its source, dive off spectacular cliffs... Oh my! Buy flowers from a singing florist...

And walk around, enjoying more sun and scenery than you can imagine. In the south of Europe is Italy, and between Florence and Genoa are the Cinque Terre. We will see the five cities, starting with Vernazza. We then walked to Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore before taking the boat to Monterosso al Mare. The Cinque Terre, meaning "Five Lands", were originally described in medieval times as "the five castles". Small communities like this grew under the protective shadows of their castles, and their people were ready to flee for refuge at the first sign of a Turkish pirate raid. As the pirate threat faded, communities grew, with economies based on fish, olives and grapes.

Today, the big employer is tourism. Each rugged little town is a variation on the same theme: a jumble of well-carved pastel houses filling its ravine. Today, the castles, which once protected cities from marauding pirates, hold only glorious views. This 10-kilometre stretch of the Italian Riviera is the rugged alternative to the glitzier resorts on the nearby Riviera. The traffic-free charm is a happy result of its natural isolation. Just sun, sea, sand (well, pebbles) and people. For me, this is the most relaxed Italy. To have a base of operations, choose from the five villages. Each one has a different personality, and with delicacy and perseverance they make a good life in difficult terrain.

Cinque Terre is reached by train through long, dark tunnels. Bursts of Mediterranean brilliance hint at the wonders to come. Milk trains link towns to each other and to the outside world. The first train line to cross this harsh, mountainous coast was an engineering marvel of its time. It was carved out of these mountains just after the unification of Italy in the 1870s. Built with the same determined spirit that united Italy, this train line literally helped unite the diverse regions of the newborn country. We start in Vernazza, where the big news is the arrival of the hourly train, bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors to the city.

There is a main street. It goes from its train station to the sea. Of the five cities, Vernazza is the one that has the closest thing to a natural port. The old castle no longer says "stay away." Instead, it seems to welcome crowded excursion boats. Settle into a comfortable spot on the breakwater. Study the layout that man and nature have created here over the last 15 centuries. The wrinkled hills come with topographic lines, a green bouquet of cacti, vines and terraced olive trees covering the surrounding hills. Each city is packed with a variety of rooms, apartments and small hotels.

Rentable private rooms, called "camere," are the best options in Cinque Terre. This gang rented a place with a cozy living room and a small but fully equipped kitchen. This couple chose a place just above the square. The adjacent church bells ring during the day, but thanks to a nice town priest, they remain silent at night. In Vernazza, the action takes place at the port, where you'll find a children's beach, plenty of rocks for sunbathing, and plenty of cafes and restaurants. Just as a breakwater protects waves at the bottom of the city, a gate stops traffic at the top.

No cars enter this town of 600 residents, except early Tuesdays, when trucks and vans arrive for the weekly street market with tailgate party. While most tourists are still in their rooms, the villagers, some of whom have never set foot in a modern shopping mall, do their shopping. The mobile phone market serves a different city every day. The flower stand is a family affair. For 20 years, the Lombardo family has settled here on Tuesdays. And the son, Eros, florist by day and opera singer by night, sells flowers with a dramatic touch. The people of these towns are proud of his heritage.

They boast that while the big Riviera resorts nearby are sold out, Cinque Terre is still locally owned. The families are still close and go back centuries. Until the arrival of the train and tourism, these towns were very remote and highly dependent on the sea. Even today, the traditions survive. While they look nothing like generations past, small-scale fishermen still make a living working their nets while tourists play. And every day, restaurant owners count on these men to keep their diners smacking their lips. And each of the five towns preserves a different dialect. Each town has a different dialect.

What is an example? For example, to talk about "married", in Vernazza we say "sposato". "Sposato." What if you are married in Riomaggiore? "Accompanied." Very different. So when you listen to someone, you know what town they live in. Yes of course. From the main street, you can access a series of narrow lanes, called "carrugi". These zigzag in all directions. In the densest areas of the city, these lanes became interior passages. If you keep going up, you'll eventually appear at the top near the castle, which will be useful for running away from attacks. The castle is nicknamed Belforte, "the place of loud cries", because of the warnings shouted from its tower during the time of piracy.

A tower has stood guard here for a thousand years. Visitors climb to the top to enjoy the view and imagine past raids. Today, the castle functions as a tourist viewpoint, a place from which local daredevils dive... and a restaurant. And the lower deck of the fort is perfect for a romantic meal. For a sweet dessert wine, try the local "Sciacchetrà". Served with biscotti, ideal for dipping. Savor the view and unforgettable surroundings. But this submarine-capable door hints that the weather isn't always so calm. Huge waves can crash against this wall. And as interior photos attest, winter storms can engulf the entire tower in waves.

Life here is subject to the dictates of the weather, and the people of Cinque Terre know the weather by the wind. -"Bellissima giornata." -A beautiful day. It is nice. Yes, but I think time will change. Yes because? Because now we have a wind from Syria, called "sciroco". Normally the sea will be too rough. Then, after the "scirocco", we have a wind from Libya, called "libeccio". And that storm came from the sea. -So, from Libya, "libeccio". -Yeah. -From Syria... -"Scirocco". STEVES: "Sciroco." Bad news. Yes Yes. And, normally, we have, after the "libeccio", the north wind, called "tramontana".

STEVES: "Tramontana." This wind that comes down from the north and cleans the sky. You would be, once again, "una bellissima giornata." -Good for tourists. -Yes, for us. So if you know the wind... In Cinque Terre, if you know the wind, you don't need the meteorologist. But the meteorologist didn't help when a freak storm hit the region in October 2011. Like many cities built in a ravine, Vernazza paved the creek that once divided the city to build this people-friendly main street. The city was buried in a raging torrent of mud 10 feet deep. With the steep hillside serving as a giant funnel, the flash flood inundated the tunnel containing the city's creek.

While all of the town's street-level businesses were destroyed, the townspeople have rebuilt and are careful to keep their expanded drainage system ready for the next bout of violent weather. Vernazza has recovered and its main square is home to some of the best restaurants in the region. And we settled for the classic dishes of the region: pasta with pesto and anchovies. MAN: "Gnocchi with pesto." Pesto is a local sauce, it comes from Liguria, the region where we are now. When you come here, you must try the pesto. The basil, which loves this temperate Ligurian climate, awaits its fate in the mortar.

First, the fresh garlic, sea salt and toasted pine nuts are ground into a fine paste. Then the basil is added. Little by little, the chef turns everything into a delicious green sauce. Like many Italian dishes, virgin olive oil is mixed in. The pesto is completed with freshly grated Parmesan cheese. And then it is poured over the pasta. Tonight we will enjoy it with gnocchi. The most typical main dish here is fish. The "acciughe", or anchovies, are a regional specialty that are served on the day of their catch. If you've always hated anchovies, the hard, salt-cured ones, try them here, fresh and cooked in a variety of ways. -"Acciughe." "Grazie." -Enjoy.

Steep terraced hills extend from each city. The ingenious monorail wine train, called the "trenino," transports workers above towns where small family vineyards are carefully tended. Cinque Terre prides itself on its white wine. Traditional farming techniques are complemented by modern knowledge as the delicate vines are prepared in anticipation of a hot growing season. Historically, each family has its own small vineyard. With the lure of the modern world, it's not easy to keep these labor-intensive traditions alive, but those who appreciate the heritage of their land seem determined to keep things going. These slopes have been terraced for centuries.

Someone, perhaps after drinking too much local wine, calculated that Cinque Terre has more than 4,000 miles of dry stone walls, built without mortar, that require regular maintenance. The dry stone masons of Cinque Terre are famous for their ability to artfully construct and preserve paths and terraces. And the craft survives to this day, with skilled artisans like Giuliano Basso. The five towns are connected by scenic trails that visitors greatly enjoy. From Vernazza, the trail runs spectacularly along the coast and through vineyards. One of the essential experiences of Cinque Terre is to get out and walk. The trails are difficult but manageable.

Sure, there are a lot of ups and downs, but with these views, it's worth it. The hilltop town of Corniglia shines in the distance. Corniglia, the only town not on the water, seems more remote than its sisters. With a church overlooking its intimate main square, a couple of restaurants and a handful of private rooms for rent, it has a relaxing atmosphere. Since Roman times, Corniglia has been noted for its winemaking. To this day, many families still make some wine in their cellar, and if you can get them to invite you in, you'll be treated to an education and, of course, a treat. "-How many liters do I have? -Cinquantaquattro." 54 liters, that's a lot. "Wine from the Cinque Terre." "No, it came from della Corniglia." "-Corniglia or Cinque Terre." -That's better.

STEVES: At the windy end of town there is a lookout, an impressive lookout high above the sea. From here, you can explore the rest of your walk and see your next stop, Manarola. There is a main path, so you don't get lost. Trails can be congested. Minimize crowds and heat by walking early or late. Since the area is a national park, you'll pay a nominal entrance fee and enjoy better-maintained trails and more pristine scenery. Whether strolling through shady olive groves, enjoying open views or pausing to soak up some sun on your own private rock, the hike is a delight.

Manarola is small and picturesque, a cluster of buildings filling its ravine above a steep harbor. The small port, with its modern breakwater, serves a double function: it serves both fishermen and fun-lovers. Oh! Cliff diving for beginners is popular here. In Cinque Terre everyone enjoys magnificent views, and that includes the dead. I will join my friend Monica on one of her visits to the cemetery located at the top of her city. Since Napoleon, who crowned himself king of Italy in the early 19th century, declared cemeteries a health risk, people in these towns have buried their loved ones outside the cities.

The result: cemeteries dramatically situated high in the hills. With evocative photographs and finely carved commemorative reliefs, any of them are worth a visit. In cemeteries like these, some are buried in a cemetery, while most are in niches called "loculi". The shrine is quietly occupied by locals remembering their lost loved ones. When you come to the cemetery, it islike visiting your family. MONICA: Yes, my family, my friends. I know everyone here. STEVES: So do you have family here on this wall? MONICA: Yes, I have my grandparents here. STEVES: Oh, Licardi. Armando. MONICA: My grandfather and my grandmother.

STEVES: Everyone is a little different. He has personality. MONICA: Exactly. Everyone, people want, to have something like before. And people come every month, every year? -No, every week. -Weekly. Every week, and there's no need to cry when you're here. You are happy because you are with the people of your family, your friends. Lina is Vernazza's first bed and breakfast. She rents a room, for the first time, to Americans. Here's an American boy. STEVES: Look at that, with his rolling suitcase. MONICA: Exactly, exactly. And Lina is waiting on the main road for someone to arrive. Here I have grandparents Massimo.

STEVES: These are her husband's grandparents. Exactly. They both died within a week. Within a week. And here I have my cousin Sauro. STEVES: Oh. The flood came and took him away. MONICA: Exactly. And they found Sauro in France. In France. Manarola is connected to the next city by the Via Dell'amore, or "Walkway of Love". It's the easiest stretch of the walk and a good place from which to savor your own private slice of Mediterranean coast. Enjoying this walk, it is easy to understand why so many artists and romantics are attracted to this region. The next town is hidden around the corner.

Riomaggiore, while larger than the cities we have seen so far, is another cozy group of houses located in a valley. The tangle of pastel-colored houses lean on each other as if someone had stolen their crutches. The colors of these towns are regulated by a commissioner of good taste of the community government. For those hitting the trails, an ideal snack is a slice of focaccia. Focaccia has its origins here, in the Liguria region. The baker stretches the dough to fit the pan, roughens it with finger holes, adds a few simple ingredients, maybe tomatoes and olives, drizzles with olive oil, and sprinkles with salt water.

Fresh from the oven, focaccia comes in several varieties. and is a local favorite for a quick grab-and-go snack. "-Grazie." -Grazie. -Chiao. -Bye bye. While you can walk or ride the train between cities, you can also take the boat. If the weather is calm, there are hourly boats linking the Cinque Terre towns. After a hike, it's fun to examine what you've explored. There is Manarola. And Corniglia, safe at the top of its hill. And from my boat I can almost see our apartment in Vernazza. The last stop of this boat, "number five" on our Cinque Terre tour, is Monterosso al Mare.

This is the most touristy city of the group. With cars, larger hotels, rentable umbrellas and the best beach in the area. If you want the kind of beach scene that comes to mind when you hear the word "Riviera," you'll find it here. Warm water, colorful umbrellas, many bodies sunbathing in the Mediterranean sun and a cozy promenade. Complementing Monterosso's lively beach scene is Miky's restaurant. And my son Andy will join us for the finest dining experience in the region. While tourism has brought new wealth here, even luxury places are still family-run. The father, Miky, runs the kitchen with an impressive mix of artistry and precision.

Meanwhile, mother and daughter help serve tables and charm their guests. Miky's pasta is cooked with a unique touch, topped with pizza dough and finished in a wood-fired oven. Sara brings us the house specialties and makes sure we know what we are eating. -It's delicious. "-Enjoy your meal." When our pasta arrives and the crust is cracked, the steaming aroma portends a taste pleasure to come. And to top off an excellent meal, Chef Miky stops by while we enjoy our traditional "sciacchetrà" and biscotti. "Complimenti." Delicious tutti. From the middle of the Monterosso spa, a tunnel passes under the castle and reaches the old town.

Here you will find more restaurants, characteristic shops and a world of colorful streets. Sure, it's touristy and practically every store caters to visitors' needs, but there's a low-key atmosphere where you remember that we're all in this life together, so let's enjoy the moment. It's "aperitif" time and, like everywhere in Italy right now, families are out, children and parents, children cheering up the main squares. A tradition that thrives outside of tourism is that special time when people go out, socialize and enjoy the cool of the afternoon. Back in Vernazza, I'm enjoying the "passeggiata" with Irene. -"Buonasera." -Chiao.

Ciao, María, ciao. STEVES: A walk around here, especially with a local friend who knows everyone in town, gives a good idea of ​​this close-knit Italian community, a community I've been visiting since we were all much younger. "My scusi!" Hello Antonio. There is my friend. Does this bank have his name? -Eh yes. -This is your bank. Italy's Cinque Terre are an irresistible mix of nature, culture and human activity. Worn-out premises, sunburnt travelers and cozy, familiar squares. Sure, the place is now well discovered, but I've never seen happier and more relaxed tourists. While Cinque Terre now endures the storms of the modern world, the region's charms are as endearing as its people are resilient.

And even today, when the church bells ring, the fishermen at sea and the grape pickers on the hills look towards their village and know that Italy is still Italy. Thank you for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep traveling. "Ciao." If you know the wind... If you know the wind in Cinque Terre, you don't need a meteorologist. I'm sorry. No. That's perfect! No, it's great! CAMERAMAN: Okay, I'm rolling. STEVES: ♪ I'm going where the water tastes like wine ♪ ♪ Stay drunk all the time ♪ In Cinque Terre, you don't need a meteorologist.