The BEST HUNTING ARROW?

The final aero build time is not final, but this will be my aero setup for this

hunting

season. I finally decided that I did a lot of testing. I literally used Lancaster archery supply and bought like five different brands of

arrow

s and shot them all and tried them all. and I came to these for a couple different reasons, I mean, we can go over that kind of stuff throughout this video, but first I'm going to show the final product of why, what, and where I'm going to use them and then we're going to dive in and just give you I'll show how I put them together in case you're interested in how exactly I put them together, so we'll start with the four millimeter vap tko

arrow

next to the victory. this arrow obviously because of the four millimeters I love the four four millimeters I used uh easton uh pro comps last year why am I not using Easton pro comps this year is one they are very expensive technically they are a target arrow that I don't really notice much magnification or any increase in accuracy over any other four millimeter arrows I've used this one and four millimeter long range those are really good too but the long range and pro competition ones were not as durable as this one .

I was just shooting in the backyard and anything I broke in a professional competition once in a while just hit the target. It's strange, you hit the back of an arrow and it starts to split. I haven't broken any yet, except for that attack. when I shot a rock it exploded, but they are pretty solid. I am very impressed with their durability and they are four millimeters. I am so impressed with the durability they are four millimeters and they are shooting as well as I do. I can possibly handle them, they're grouping up, they're doing well, that's literally the reason I picked them, they're not even the ones that have similar levels to them, what's the highest level one v1 v1 one is this the one lowest or middle? one is it's a v6, probably v6, this is the expert series, whatever it is, oh v6, yeah, v6 below 350.

So 350 v6 backbone, so it's not even your level arrow higher, so you might even expect better things from its higher levels. but I'm a little stingy on some things and I thought: I'm going to try them and try them and I'm going to get their v6. I love them. They are fine. I'm running an x ​​vein a four. -fletch x-vein, which is the same setup I ran in pro comps last year and I'm running it because this is going to be my elk, my moose and potentially a mule deer arrow, so I'll potentially experience a little more shooting. and also a fixed blade, so I have these larger feathered ones.

It's like a two degree left helix, which is pretty standard with zebra bow strings. You'll want to come out of the left arc, so I'm going to feather them to the left. heel coil and which is really important for fixed blades, but this arrow configuration will work very, very well for a fixed blade. I have just a 50 grain underground tip, we can see what the final weight is. I don't even have 100. insurance or scale, you brought it out, I didn't know, okay, zero scale, so we're looking at 435, phenomenal for anything in North America that you want to kill with a fixed head, I don't know if I would. run an expandable giant with this arrow light um it's not even that light it's a very medium arrow in that 420 420 to 460i is in my opinion just a very good medium arrow it's going to be fast you know over 280 feet per second can be right in that sweet spot, um, it's going to be really good, being able to shoot 100 yards, overall a great arrow, I'm just going to run the original shot, I'm not going to do a light shot because they're in the four millimeters.

Lighted hits tend to break a little bit more, a little bit more inconsistent, they can bend, so I'm just running around, running the plane hit, which is going to be cool, standard and fine, so we're going to build this in just a second, which is like my western arrow um yeah we're going elk

hunting

if you saw that little teaser I'm going to use this for elk we're going elk hunting some mule deer that's what that arrow is going to be. and yes, you can run an expandable. I'll probably use them with an expandable to go antelope hunting, so the antelope are a little smaller.

You know, more size whitetail with an expandable on this will be totally fine. grains so we'll see but a little longer shots that's what I'm going to run for whitetails all whitetails what I landed was a victory tko um I might change this but I have a jacket put there, right? now and with a four fletch, I could change to a three fletch. I didn't really notice much difference when switching to a four fletch, there's no real benefit, so I could still do some testing with just a standard three fletch, um, and we have a light hit there, I run light and play, obviously, it's a a little more fun to watch them on videos and stuff, and I just like shooting more, it's a little more fun to see you right where they go and obviously find your arrow afterwards. you shoot something five millimeter arrow a little stronger a little heavier whitetails you're not shooting potentially as far as you know hopefully you only got a shot from 20 to 30 yards you're not from 40 to 50 yards no need to cut the wind at all , but we still have a lot of direction to help lead.

I'll probably run like a g5 dead meat expandable broadhead, so it doesn't really need a ton of steering, but it will surely help these big blazers again. I ran the Victoria because there were no durability issues. I shot a lot of them, none of them ever broke. I don't know what it is, but they have really stood out, especially in their components. I know. When I tried their stuff a couple of years ago, it was like their components weren't right. t 100 there were some inconsistencies in their punches and their inserts but I don't really know what they did but they really stepped up.

I'm impressed zero problems 50 grains on the front I'm going to do 100 green head uh the light and the strike add like 25 grains something like that so it's important that you shoot 100 of the time with these lighted strikes. Now don't switch from one side to the other. We have a total weight. I'm going to need a field point. They're going to be a little heavier, but it's still not a heavy arrow. I'm not. I did the whole 550 grain arrow, 500 grain arrow thing and we could talk for hours about it. That's all for a different video, but yo.

I just didn't mean that, I didn't see enough value, there are pros and cons and everything, but in my opinion there were more cons, so this is a 438, so honestly, it's the same 435 to 438, it's pretty much what same, but it's a little. thicker, it will be a little more durable, but it will still be pretty fast, probably in that 280+ range, whatever you need to kill a whitetail. I'm excited about the setup, I really like, um, four millimeters to the west, five millimeters with a blazer plus Midwest whitetail type stuff, so let's dive in, let's build some of these and I'll just show you how.

I do. Something underrated when building arrows is nice lighting is really important to make sure all your cuts and your glue and everything is right, you know if you're in your basement and it's dark and you can miss things in the light or I just have really bad the eyes and I need one or the other, so we have, we have a little more tear tkos, but I guess I bought the v1s. I forgot about that, so I'll be interested to see if the v1s shoot better than the v6s, but if you guys are cutting your own arrows or whatever, I'll just talk about it.

There are different precise ways you can do it, some guys like to take the knockout out and put a point on there so it's a completely round cylinder that they move it around because if you stick it on the end and move a If you hit it, it swings a bit. I don't think there is much difference. My philosophy is that the biggest variable is you, so you can go to these extremes, but most of the time I don't. let's cut this is already the right length um you're going to want to put the punch end first and you want to push it into the blade and then twist it you have to make sure you twist there we go Let's confirm with the other arrow that we have the correct length and that it has the same length, so now what we're going to do is I have this g5 squaring tool uh, it's kind of like a newer one.

I thought it was newer Riley said it's been around forever but I thought this was a concept it's been around concepts have been around forever but I think this is like a new template um it's actually cool so just put your arrow here put it It's like a diamond tip sandpaper thing, you just turn it a few times and what it does is you get a 100 square edge. Sometimes these blades can do something funny to your edge and this just keeps it square. I'm just going to do the other one I already have so I don't forget a boom that we're ready to hit again.

Arrow construction is a little different. Each one does it differently. I just don't clean it. The inside of my arrows used to do it and then I stopped doing it and didn't notice any difference so I don't clean the inside of my arrows anymore. Sometimes I superglue them. Sometimes I use a blue glue again, just testing the last one. Lot I wanted to photograph them like now, so I just glued them together and shot them. I've been photographing them for a long time and none of them fell off occasionally blue glue if you have a hot day or something it's really sticky it can melt at a low temperature you know I don't know what it actually is probably 120 degrees 130 degrees, it starts to break and sometimes they come out, but I don't know, I made a dozen with the super. glue and it was, it was totally fine, um, but I'll show you the fan favorite, the politically correct way to do it is with blue glue or um, like Easton Hot Melt type things, so we'll do that.

I also have my torch in my truck that is currently not here because they are working on it so we will use this one and we have a torch in my truck because instead of breaking a trailer the other day I will fix it. but we fixed it, we fixed it, that's the important part with this blue glue, all you have to do is heat the glue, you don't really want to heat the insert too much or anything, you don't want the carbon left on the arrow. hot or your fingers almost dripping on me carbon is actually very sensitive you heat it up it can break it make it more brittle so all we're doing is heating up the glue putting it on the insert make sure it's 360 coverage and then we're going to go back to warm it up.

It's a little easier with a blowtorch. The way I'm doing it isn't amazing, but let's heat it up again. A tip from George Riles if you have to use pliers to make arrows. You're making it too hot. You should always be able to use your hands and fingers. Because it never gets that hot, but you just remove it with your finger again. It's not too hot. tap or something and shoot a couple of times, the rest will clear up and there's our insert, we've got our punch installed and I think I'll do it. You could make three arrows in this dozen and see what the difference is.

If there is any, we did the noise comparison, uh, video and there was a very slight difference, but it was negligible, so there's no sound difference really going from three to four, so I think we're just going to rock with three. I'm going to do white, I really like white or yellow, obviously white shows blood better, it's better to see it in the dark or just in general, obviously yellow, neon yellow is also very good, black will probably It looks sleeker and cooler, but I try to digress. Away from black because it is very difficult to find the arrows, but it looks better.

With fletched arrows, you want to make sure they are low enough on the shaft so that they don't touch your face. I've been looking at the total challenge of archery. people shoot and realize that there's so much veiny contact on people's faces, on people's chins, that it's going to throw your shot off everything, shot after shot, so make sure you have it far enough in the arrow so as not to touch your face, this is how I run it a little bit, just that bottom dash line at the bottom of the feathers, I use a boned jacket link, I'll tell you which jackets I've pulled air, I've shown arrows with each down, almost jackets require the least amount of It is possible to make a mistake in maintenance.

I don't clean my arrows. I don't clean the feathers. I literally stick the hood on the vein and stick it for five seconds and they don't bother at all. I've tried them all. Some require pens, acetone, sandpaper and all those magician and blazer type things, I don't know what they're doing, but there's or boning in general, the materials they use I just don't know, I don't know what they're doing, but it's very high maintenance. low, make sure everything is square, a piece of glue stuck there and I forget one step and I forget two steps because I have to turn this into a three fletch because there are no four fletch left right now, pause. 120, isn't it?

Yes, yes, because it needs to be equal to 360. You're smarter than you look, smarter than I look, but stillSo you're not very smart. Yeah, she didn't set the bar. Yeah, we didn't set the bar very high on all that. Okay, I'm going to get rid of this feathering because it's probably dry. Now I'm loading a new fletching so I do a couple of points and then I just go over the nozzle a couple of times to smooth it all out, you don't want any air pockets, big deal, why isn't there good adhesion, just air pockets there, that's why a good light comes into play, just kind Look at it, make sure it's straight and then a slice and a burger it's literally the simplest feathering jig out there, it's pretty consistent, so you hit it against the metal, you drag the clip down and then just and then I like to push it with both hands. down so you really get all the adhesion make sure it sticks just wait about five seconds you can wait a little longer if you want then you just open twist and pull then you're good it's still a little wet so don't do it I really want to dig into it , but you just turn it and do the next thing and you know, making arrows usually requires a cold drink, good music, television because it's one of the most boring things in the world, at least I like to make them. usually very quick, you can be very precise about it, be very nice and neat and make sure there's no glue, clean up the glue and everything, but I just run it as is, I don't really care what they look like, number two . there you want to make sure everything looks good because you make a mistake, you make a mistake once and you just have to redo everything, open, turn, turn, turn to the next one.

Another important thing is to make sure the arrow is facing down. all the way down sometimes when you turn it it pops up again and you make sure it's all the way down like this we have a three prong blazer with a slight left helical about two degrees and now like I was saying about cleaning up the glue , um As you can see, there's a little bit of glue coming out of the sides. You can take a paper towel and just wipe it over so it looks a little better when it dries completely. You can do that.

It's not necessary, it's just for aesthetics and what I'm going to do with all the feathers is once I make them, I'm going to lay them all out nice and neat like this, don't let anything touch them, just leave them. Dry for an hour, usually preferably overnight so they are completely solid. I never wait that long and usually don't have any problems. I put them all in and then what I do is I go through them and Tilt them and put them in, just put a little dot on either side of the vein and what that does is it just helps keep them from starting to peel.

You know, if you shoot at the target, put it through it, it helps prevent it from snagging. The overall durability of the vein sticks. You don't have to do it, it just helps, it doesn't make it look super pretty either, but it really helps with the durability of the vein overall. Now we are going to make the four millimeters. I'm going to change this back to four points. slide it in, let's double check and make sure it's changed to four fletch and these are x pallets like I was saying um, what length is this? What did three of us do?

These are three inches x pallets landed on three. a good middle way, same goes for this, I run it on the same line, nothing is different, that's how my arrows work fine, I have no facial contact with it. I've confirmed that there's no real reason to change that, so that's how I run a slightly larger vein, a longer vein on this, so we have to make a couple of additional points in the same process, although the vein is It looks very pretty, but the yellow really pops, count to five, remove it gently, remove it in about five or ten seconds.

It's also good because sometimes the clamp will stick to the fletching if you keep it on too long so removing it really helps with that, just like that we have a four millimeter four fletching x vein which is pretty easy, that yellow matches really well with that knot. kind of slick um but that's my aero setup for this year guys I'm going to run this western and whitetail setup. It will be great for longer distance fixed blades due to the four millimeters and for expandable whitetails or fixed blades. if I mess with that, um, but yeah, that's what 430 grains is like for both rock and rock and roll.

We have to dig up where that 550 grain is. Do we prove that just because we talked about it it was a couple? Years ago I built these five millimeter all metal jackets, uh, they were 340 green, they had hidden 75 grain brass inserts and they had a big, unique bezel. I think it was called a Strickland archery propeller at the time. This thing took a lot of work to get it to fly right, you know, it was slow, I had to shoot like 80. I think I was shooting uh hoyt helix or hoyt rx1 at the time and it was like 82 pounds, it was still only 260 feet per second 250 feet per second and this arrowhead you know any type of single bevel arrowhead after about 30 yards you have to really individually tune each arrowhead you have to turn them using the blue glue it's important you literally take a little lighter, you shoot if it hits you, you light it up, you pick it up, you turn it a little bit, you let it cool, you shoot again, they're a lot of work and I really don't think there's that much benefit if you're obviously making a big game in Africa, you know? and I want to want to do some crazy things or I love to, you know, shoot a deer in the shoulder on purpose, but it still won't go through the shoulder bone, but anyway I've done it and I really just came back. a medium 400 grain arrow when it makes sense you know use expandables when it makes sense to use fixed blades obviously a little larger animal I like to use a fixed blade on smaller holes more reliable I can cut better whitetails expandable but that's my uh setup aerodynamics for this year we can go on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on and on about this because the arrows are something so technical that you can align the spine, you can make group adjustments, you can do all kinds of fletching variations all kinds of weights all the different spines it's really endless and at the end of the day it's a personal preference and what you're sure of is the only thing that matters the most important thing is to make sure you go out and practice, you can shoot an untuned Make a bow right, you can have a very tuned bow and still not shoot well because you simply don't practice, so make sure you go out and practice and shoot with your broadheads before the season.

Make sure everything is in order. Practice, practice, don't overthink it and be confident. your setup we'll catch you guys