SAVING an ABUSED Portable Welder from its Junk Yard GRAVE! ~ WILL IT START? ~ Red-D-Arc D300k P. 1

hit them with a hammer, but I don't know if it was accidentally dropped or hidden with the microphone, you never really know, well, we have the jumper pack on the cables, let's see if we can get some crank, I didn't expect that, wow, maybe Mike be right, maybe we'll run a little full throttle, which could be one cylinder down. It's already smoking, huh, well, maybe our injection pump is going to work fine. I'm going to try this preheat and get it going. Are you kidding? I'm absolutely thrilled, I didn't even have fuel connected and no. I don't even know if the spark plugs worked because I didn't see anything, so let's try it again, we'll give it a little more glow plug, it's probably out of fuel now, well I'm going to prepare some fuel and let's try to get this baby running right .

We're going to find out pretty quickly if this little fuel pump is any good. I think we'll get this line out of here and get it going and we'll see. If we're getting fuel out of this little pump, if we do, we're going to go ahead and then we're going to need to get the nut to break these nuts off, which is the same thing for the injector lines and that's how it should be. It should be governed at a certain RPM. I don't know if it has a high idle. I don't believe it. I think it's just one speed all the time, as far as I can tell, and then up here there's some kind of lever. with a spring, I think it might have a decompression valve on the actual valve cover, um, to make it easier to

start

or something, I'm not sure, but we're not going to mess with that now.

I checked the coolant. Can. I don't see anything and I don't even see moisture so there's actually a valve here, nothing so far, oh yeah we have some coolant so there's something there. I doubt it's full, but I really don't know, but the fact that we saw something very good, I don't have to put any of that in now, one thing I'm going to add to this diesel, we're going to add a quart to this bucket of 5 gallons, it's probably too much, but This is an automatic transmission fluid and what it

will

hopefully do is it

will

mix with the diesel and then when it goes through the injection pump, the injector will

start

to clean out all the residue of the old diesel that It's been sitting there for so long, so this line coming out of the fuel pump here goes into this little container, so we have the fuel supply going into the fuel pump and then coming out into this container, let's see if this thing is pumping, if it's pumping, we're going to plug it back in and start working our way through the fuel system, so look there to see if the liquid is going into that container, there we go, all good, so we don't have a a single drop, so what I could do is take that apart, try to figure it out and see what's going on or we can just avoid it and go ahead and add a click.

I'm leaning towards doing that, most likely this thing is I'm going to need, it's probably a diaphragm pump. I'm pretty sure that's what they are and the rubber could be bad. I don't know what's going on with that, so let's skip that part if you haven't seen it. these are pliers, loop pliers that grip hoses very, very well and so you can grab a hose, you can take it off or push one in like I just did here, so yeah, very useful, I couldn't get it on hand. the right tool and you can get them cheap at Harbor Freight online, they don't have to be nice.

I don't use mine enough so I bought some at Harbor Freight. Okay, I redirected the return line to this little container so we can see. It looks like you still have that out of the fuel pump although I don't think it will do anything. The last thing there, that one loosened up a little bit. Lube on those, okay, this fuel pump, here we go with our click, clack. ready to go, cookie clots, you're already sending it over the overflow, let's try, you've got fuel in two of them, our overflow is actually filling up pretty quickly with fuel in three and four, that's a great sign, I'm very happy to see that because that means. that our injection pump is doing injection pump things, so the color you see of the fuel looks like old diesel, but it's because of that ATF we added.

I have fuel in one and two, very good. I was expecting to have to dive into that injection pump, but I don't think that will be the case this time. Crazy about all the

junk

I work on on all the old machines. I have forgotten to drain the fuel around the injectors many times. I will do it in order. so that if there is a leak you can see it better than leaving the fuel that is there, okay, we look good. I think what I'm going to do is take this line back, I need to get a bigger jug ​​so that's what I've gotten out of it so far and it's got some dirt on it so actually it's probably a good thing I turned on all 12 volts, here goes nothing, ha, woohoo, yeah, could you look at that turned on and let me close this. off and off Runs beautiful I'm excited so something's going on right here look at that line um I don't know let's restart it okay restart it warm up beautiful sweet she's a racer so I want Stop wasting the fuel being sent back to the line return, so now it's going to go back to the tank, so there's a little bit of smoke here.

I'm going to open the door a little bit to get some air in and then really. The Plan I think next I want to start diving into the fuel filter. I'm going to try to find an oil filter. We'll do an oil change. We will do a filter change for the fuel filter. Understand that. connected, we'll find out if this temperature gauge is working and maybe before we do all that, just reset it and see if it has any output and if it's because I don't know, just because Mike said, oh, that's right. Not generating power for welding doesn't mean it's not, it just means that's what he remembers and then I want to figure out how to put the air filter back in, change all the filters, new fuel lines, we'll have to do it. dive into this fuel pump.

I want to fix the actual factory one instead of continuing to use the click clag, that's fine for now when I go to do St and stuff like this. I'm fine with adapting something at the moment, but I would. It rather works the way it was designed, so if we need to get a fuel pump or a rebuild kit, if we need to get it, I'm not sure what this shutoff solenoid is, even there, because there's no on or off. With it, there is no switch. unless maybe it latches onto some kind of switch that trips and then cuts off the fuel, that might be it, we'll have to chase the wiring, we've got to dive into the tank, there's a lot to do, let's get started, I'm going to open the door, bring some fresh air in here even though it's very cold outside and then we're going to turn it back on and see if we have power, if we have power coming out of the generator, we just need to start eliminating the little things that need to be done to make it look and work. as it should.

An incredible step in the recovery of this old Beast is that it started, it runs, it actually runs very well, it sounds good, it is idle despite this. This is a set RPM all the time, this lever here, if I pull it back, basically adjusts the amount of fuel that the injection pump sends to the injectors, essentially lowering the RPM, so by playing with this I can take it to an idle even though this machine is set to run at those RPMs all the time because that's how they are, generators are just built that way and they tend to last a long time because they don't have all the revs up and down. with the RPM and that's a lot harder on a motor than a fixed speed motor, um, but yeah, let's let a little bit of air in here and we'll see if it makes any power.

I'm going to let it run for a while here so it doesn't work. Don't smoke option, it's okay. I'm going to let it run outside for a while. It's really steaming up the store in here and it's a little difficult because I can't open the doors very much or I lose a lot of heat. so I think I'll bring what I'm going to do tomorrow. I have a welding fume extractor, it's a huge square, I probably don't know, it's 3 feet by 3 feet and maybe 4T tall with one arm and so on. It has a large filter, you should be able to lower it down here and then just stick it right above the exhaust and that should reduce a lot of the fumes.

You could even plum some type of pipe. I really want to install some kind of exhaust fan to expel all the fumes outside. I don't have that tomorrow. I'm definitely going to bring it, but for now let's let it warm up outside and then we'll continue playing. With it this thing runs surprisingly well, the engine I don't know if we're generating power but it stays cool, the thermostat seems to be working it goes around 189 190 which tells me it probably has a 190° thermostat. I added some coolant to the tank, so I probably had a quart, I poured it in there and it filled to the top of the tank, right at the bottom of that filler neck, which tells me it was already pretty full of all modes, which is great, it's smooth, all the cylinders in the exhaust ports are the same temperature, so we don't have a dropped cylinder, it sounds great.

I ran it for probably I don't know 35 40 minutes outside right now it's about -2 because the temperature is dropping, but I wanted it to warm up, I wanted that oil to really come through and everything, so I think what we're going to do now, ya It's hot out, let's dump the oil and get a new filter might do it right this second. I have a lot of filters. We should be able to find a filter that fits this, so let's do it once in a while tomorrow. I'll bring it right. fume extractor and let's start it up here and see if we can generate it for us there we go.

I was wondering where it said Kabota v1902, so now we know this is the original engine. I'm moving it. Because the engine drain plug is right there, so there are absolutely no numbers on this filter. I already looked, so I'm not going to worry too much about worrying. It looks like it's never been changed. Well, let's take this. in the other room and let's see if we can find a filter that fits well, we have some new filters in the boxes in there and we have all these filters here, they are all oil or whatever is too big, too big, that's the right size .

It looks like rubber and that one is about the same diameter and I can't tell but it looks like the threads are correct so that's an option we'll take, here's a deeper one that's maybe the right full size but the O ring is too big, the number is in 2160, okay, here it looks good small, medium and large, so if it is too small or too big, we will take them both out and if the longer one fits, it has more capacity filtration. Don't know. I actually don't know if that matters. Can you run it? If the filter is larger, does it have more capacity to filter more since there is more filter paper in there?

There is more real material. You know they have more to catch or it just doesn't matter, they cover up. I understand. You know, it needs to be changed regularly, but I'm curious. Here's the biggest one and obviously if I put it there, it's going to come into contact with the outside cover of the machine, the cover, so one is going to be too big. one will be okay, it's shorter than the previous filter, but that's okay, just make sure it screws on perfectly, so it's hard to pre-oil these side filters when they're like this, basically I'm going to put it in there and we're going to let the engine fill the filter well, there are no metal particles in it.

I don't see any metal swirl. I don't see any water, although there will be water at the bottom, but I didn't see any before, none came out when we removed the plug, just oil, so it's black, which is great, that's an awesome sign, leave that, okay, we change the oil, we fill it all again. I've finished now. I'm going to go home and hang out with my wife and kids and have some dinner and I'll be on it like this, so I was thinking about my welding fume extractor and trying to use it to get the exhaust smoke out properly. filters and what that would do is filter maybe like you know some of the particles, but it's not going to remove the CO2 and the other hydrocarbons that are created by an engine in a space like this, so that's probably not the best plan.

So I came up with this idea, this is a

portable

dust collection system, a

portable

dust collection system for construction, usually, and I used to own a construction business and I used to manage it, we use it a lot for, as you know, drywall dust or to use saws in a house to try to take care of all the dust and get it out of the house so that we don't end up with a layer of dust over everything and you have this tube, a bag, you have that little Shute thing there, but what is it?

It's basically just a big fan, so there's a block so you can turn them off. It's an old Delta portable dust collector, but there is a large fan that sucks in one of them and blows out the other. I think it sucks. through this and blow this way, these tubes here, these three two small pieces and then this one a little longer, you can glue this over the end of an exhaust pipe and you would have a hole like in thegarage door or wall. you put that in there and then the exhaust can come out okay when we redid this shop the garage doors had those holes right in the middle of each of them, the three don't have them so I really don't want to put holes in the doors they are insulated, They are expensive doors, maybe we'll do it eventually around here, but right now I need a bigger seal, basically the bottom under this garage, so I have a bunch of rag towels stuffed under the door, so I guess what I'm going for What we need to do is run one of those tubes under there and that's how we'll get the exhaust out for now. eventually I want to build some kind of general air vacuum, you know, something in the corner, maybe that sucks all the air out because the smoke and heat rises and then I can easily get it out for today.

I don't want to deal with it, I don't want to mess with it, you know, trying to find something permanent. My thought is that this tube is probably all plastic, it's probably too meltable. I guess you could say it, so I came up with these. I went to the place. A while ago at a hydraulic repair shop I was making some hydraulic hoses and these hoses, as well as many others, were being disposed of. They were basically transitioning from being a Parker distributor to another company and they had a full container. of hydraulic hoses and on them were these, I think they will work perfectly on this, this is not going to be permanent, this is literally just me trying to find a quick way to solve the problem.

I want to run this in this building and I don't want to lose all my heat. It's very very cold outside. It would be better to be here and be able to work on it. To be able to work on the actual part of the generator and know what's going on, test it out. I need The motor is running there now we can put the big hose on the suction side let's make sure I'm right before I go too far we'll plug it in turn it on okay turn this on yeah it's blowing that way . I started that way, the other nice thing is that this thing is 110 so I can plug it into any outlet.

I don't have to worry because I need 220 or I even have some of these larger ones that are uh three... phase and yeah, this will work great for this, this is what I'm thinking, we have a flexible one here, in one direction, there , this pipe, connect that, think something like that, then it will be easy to take it apart, move it to For the next project, I would like to introduce you to some kind of arm or find a better system than this, but for a quick time it literally cost me nothing . I think this should do what I need.

I want to dive into this little fuel pump. real quick, I want to see if it looks bad there or if maybe we can revive it, get rid of the electric. I sprayed some WD40 into this tube, here we go, something dripping could be WD40, okay, door number one we have. some buildup there, I didn't break the gasket, but I'm going to clean it out to see if we can get the other side out trying not to ruin these gaskets on the other side and this is our diaphragm that does the pumping that I did. I didn't realize there was oil on this side so there must be oil that lubricates the shaft going in and out so this works like the motor is moving and this works like this and then that's what it pulls out all the fuel.

Okay, we've got a lot more clean that the diaphragm still looks rubbery, so let's put it back together. It's going to stay like this. I'm going to tighten them with this and then I'm going to get a screwdriver and do the same thing. rest your hand okay I want to put this fuel filter back into the system it was overlooked so let's take it out it's a nasty looking fuel so this is a Wix 3339 5 and I have a filter exact to replace it there. Come on, that's our supply to the fuel pump and then I have to get another line.

This line back here is the supply coming from the tank, so we're going to get too much out of this tank. Happens. Okay, we have everything ready. The only thing I don't have on right now is the air filter. I'm not too worried about that short term. Let's see if we can get fuel from this pump to the injection pump. The lines are dry. We have fuel. the filter, so we'll uncover this at 12 volts and then it should be ready to go. Yes, we are blowing smoke. Let me show you. I'll show you how this escape will work.

Our exhaust manifold is broken, but the exhaust comes out through there. look now I'm going to turn it on now we're going to turn on the watch right there, right in that area, right here, some of the smoke is coming out right here. I have to seal that better, now we'll try it right here, basically we have is a purge valve and there should be a little knob on it, it should look like this, so this is a replacement one. You can open it and it should allow you to bleed air from the system. Well, it's broken, so here we are.

I'm going to throw this one in there. I have a couple of other Kabota diesel engines that are v2203 and many of the parts are very similar if not identical, many times when I remove these hoses if I am going to reuse them, which they temporarily are and if it works we will leave it for good. I'll cut the end off because the end is a little flared, it's basically been there and it's safer to use a small new section of hose because you can usually get a better fit, it will be tighter than before, sometimes that creates its own problems of not wanting to continue, but we can deal with that, so I disconnected the electric click to power the road.

I have it set up so the fuel goes from the tank to the clicky clack, from the electric clicky clack pump to the filter housing, through the filter housing, to the mechanical fuel pump, from the mechanical fuel pump, feeds it to the injection pump and so on because we've been running it by literally pushing fluid from behind this fuel pump through the filter and back to this mechanical pump and having cleaned it and we didn't really see any major problems, we could have given it back life basically when you know the liquid has to go through that pump, so it's going to clean it up, reduce it, hopefully, quote unquote, but let's try it without that electric click.

I unplugged it while it was still running and it seemed like it will be fine, so let's see if it boots without it. Put this back here, I have this here because this line here is the return line from the injectors and I want it to discharge back into this tank, so obviously one of the problems we're having. here is that we are not getting electricity out of this from the actual generator side of the machine. I was looking here when it was running and I couldn't see anything moving, so let's take this cover off and see if we can find anything obvious, something is definitely going on because this thing should be spinning, huh?

I'm cranking the engine while doing this. I thought maybe there was a wooden key or some kind of loving joy. The connection there was broken, but I don't think that's the case, let's start this and see what happens. Well, turn. I made a mistake. I don't know if that's a good or bad thing. Obviously, something simple would be: you know, a key is destroyed, you have to replace it. that, but that could also cause a lot more damage, so I'm glad everything is docked now, we just have to start investigating what could be causing this to not generate electricity.

Oh wow, there's a huge nest here. there's some of that, I'm sure being dirty here doesn't help at all, yeah, definitely, this is a Lincoln generator, I'm sure the brushes say Linn on t 2687. I'm going to get a vacuum cleaner here and clean all this up, which gives us a lot more access to try to work on all these nasty looking cables, we have things that aren't connected, we have things cut, we have things that are supposed to go somewhere but don't, yeah, I'm going to have To figure all this out, I have than get a wiring diagram and try to figure out what's going on here, even the crispy connections here could be corroded and just not allowing power flow, power flow is fine obviously I want to get clean. air in that diesel, so let's clean the air filter, okay let's see what the filter looks like, it doesn't look too bad from this perspective, although I can see dirt on the filter, it's just this one, no pre-filter, just that filter , yes, it is definitely I need to change it, so I bought a new one, this is a Donaldson filter.

I got the comparable Wix. Let's finish cleaning it and actually I see some rust like here, I see the rust right there, all the way there. I think I'm going to take a wire brush and get it as clean as I can and then we could spray paint which I don't want any little particles passing through the filter mechanism because that's after the filter, the filter goes over that and any Some of that rust will simply be absorbed into the engine unfiltered, so let's finish this and clean these elbows. I'm probably going to replace the band clamps with some real hose clamps.

I'm not going to make you watch me clean. everything, so I'll bring them back when we get a little closer to put it back together, so I'm diving into the wiring here and looking for problems. The first problem I see is this cable I tied up. We put them together like this and I can tell that at some point there was a duct-taped lock, that's what they are. Look at that blue thing over there, it's a duct tape lock. If you're going to do wiring, don't use them, they're garbage, so I. I'll have to replace that one, but I can tell there was a duct tape lock here because that's the inside of the duct tape lock, what it basically does is when you close that little connector, it punctures both wires with this little metal thing here and that little metal.

This leaves a mark on the cable that looks like this, essentially, you can see how it's like it's punched through the coating with my finger here, so of all the cables that are disconnected, the only ones that seem to go together are these and So someone who did this instead of continuing with a white wire used a piece of green. I'm replacing it so I want the wiring to be the same as the wiring diagram I have here because it's important for me to be able to follow it. wires, so what is this white wire? I've been following it and it looks like it leads back here and one of the wires comes out here and goes to the water temperature gauge, so from there there's a red wire that jumps up.

It comes back and it goes to the hour meter, the hour meter doesn't work and the temperature gauge doesn't work and I'm wondering if it's because this wire isn't connected to this green one, so let's, let's put them together real quick I don't know where. this wire goes this one isn't connected to anything I'm not sure where that guy goes um there's a fuse and an inline fuse right here and this yellow wire on the other side so this yellow wire comes down and goes into the wiring loom that goes down to this alternator basically this is the start, it gives it the voltage, the initial voltage to be able to crank up and start generating electricity on the larger side of the generator, it could be as simple as maybe. that fuse is bad, you see all these connections here, these are for adjusting the voltage to different ranges, there is green residue everywhere, I need to clean everything I did with a wire brush, this riat here essentially, this allows you to change the voltage variably like That thing that spins on the other side of the dial is basically our fine tuning from 10 to 100 and while you're spinning, behind the scenes what happens is this little arm moves to a different side of that coil And I do not know.

All the technical terms explain exactly how it works but I know the voltage varies by location here so essentially in one place you get very little and on the other side you get the exact opposite with a lot so you've got the meter. Let's try. Let's start testing that fuse. Fuses are something that can explode easily. So you want to put your multimeter on continuity. You take your two cables. I always do this before doing anything. You pick them up and touch them. together that beep and that solid sound says we have a connection, we have a connection, that's all it does, it's testing to see if there's a connection, this wire comes out, the red wire comes out and comes back through the black one, that way you know Yes I test two sides of a wire and you can do this with anything, so let's test anything that is an electrical connection.

We'll test this side of the wire to this side of the wire and we'll have continuity through this little green wire. I thought Now we would do it on the fuse, we will take the red one on one side. I know you can't see the fuse very well. It's there, black on one side, red on the other, and we're not really understanding it or maybe we are. maybe that fuse is good, not a good sign, so I bet the contacts that are dirty, let's take out that fuse, okay, I cleaned the fuse on both ends, now we will test the continuity, yes, all the way around.

It was dirty and didn't make good contact and I cleaned the fuse holder with a wire brush. I'm going to put this in there for now so we can take and put a test lead in both of them. wires on the outside wire on the outside wire on the outside all right so it's fixed so the manual says we might have lost the excitation in the field for the machine umreal here and that's what basically gives you the ability to Let's start generating energy, so let's try it negative positive. I don't know how long we're supposed to do this.

The other thing is that all these contacts that I'm finding on this whole machine, all the electrical elements, are they rusted or are. corroded, so probably if this doesn't work I'll start checking every connection, cleaning them and putting them back together, well let's try to start it. I'm still not getting power so no. There's voltage coming out of the outlet or the wires so I think it's time to start cleaning well so I'm checking the electrical system and I checked the hour meter is working but it wasn't working , so the way I did it. What we did was we have a couple of jumpers on both wires and then I take that and go straight to a battery, so we'll put a positive there or a negative there, meaning a positive here and you can Look, it's 2470 hours and 0 /10 and then the little one on the side of the bar just goes 1 Z 1 Zer and basically I think like every other kind of thing, I'm not sure what they call it, but now I know that this hour meter is functional and it works, we just have to get it working so then i made my way to the oil pressure switch and this one is normally open and i found this out by googling the part number m M-46 which means to test it we need to put pressure on it, it it closes at 4 PSI, so there's hardly any pressure, um, it goes right here, right above the starter motor, the starter motor went right here to get this out without destroying it.

I had to remove the starter motor. which are just two bolts not too hard, so I'm going to show you how to test a normally open oil pressure switch. To test this switch we need a multimeter and set it to continuity which is this one over there and with continuity it's basically like creating a circuit when you hear the beep that means the circuit is complete. I always test all my multimeters every time just to verify that the problem won't be with the meter, so if I touch one of these to each On the side of this, this is a two-wire cable, which just means it has two cables going to it.

There are some that just have one wire and it receives the ground through the actual body, so to test them you just touch the body you touch. touch the other side of the single wire, but this one has two, so try one here and one here and if you don't know if it's open or not, you might think okay, this is bad, well, I thought. normally not closed normally closed means the circuit is complete which means there must be a lot of energy to go all the way normally open means for the circuit to be completed it has to be closed it's the other way around Well, but if you understand electronics and the way things are connected, it makes a lot of sense, so finding out that this is normally open, what we need to do is take and connect one wire to this side and the other lead to that side and then what we can do and I didn't do anything complicated here it's literally just an air pressure look at the screen the circuit closes and then we can go to ohms and we can test the resistance and I'm not sure what the rating is supposed to be.

I need to look it up, but this will tell us the resistance inside this switch and it probably matters how much pressure is applied to it. I don't know exactly if. that is true or not but CU we are getting some different readings here and this is a much higher pressure coming out at 120 maybe 100 PSI. I'm not sure what I have it set to, but it's a lot more than the four this needs, but we've established that this is a good oil pressure switch, so I cleaned it all up. I got new screws for this end cable.

I brushed it thoroughly, removed all the dirt and corrosion and that's what I'm doing is checking all of this. I discovered that one of the cables had this little black wire right here. The cable basically broke the connector so I hooked a new connector on it for now so I'm going to put it in. I'm putting this back in and I'm going to keep working on every little detail and try to resolve all the electrical issues. Basically, I'm going to clean all the contacts, replace the bad ones, and try to find problems by testing the sensors.

I've been digging into the wiring here and basically started, you know, cleaning the wires and labeling them, finding out I put a new ammeter on this one, it had only gone up to 30, the other one went up. at 40 not really sure I think the ammeter is literally just for the alternator. I also hooked up the glow plug indicator again. They cut it all the way out, so what will happen is that in this hole there is a little wire that will glow and indicate that you are actually getting power to your glow plugs. I was doing a little bit of cleaning, basically cleaning, so here's the exciter, so I'm basically cleaning every connection at the moment.

Removing bolts, sanding off rust. get all the corrosion out of there and then take and test for continuity, so I'll touch one end of a wire here and then I'll go back to where I know there's another wire and then that tells me that this wire here What I'm testing is fine. Let's try this. I have checked all the cables, every connection that is made in this panel on the engine. The only ones I haven't been to is the generator. There are some I've gone through this whole panel here, so let's figure out that it should light up with a little glow plug and see if we can get them to light the lung protector right.

Our glove spark plug indicator now works great. and the amp meter was working here we are going good so we fixed some things this amp meter works but I was still not sure why the hour meter works absolutely and now when we turn it off it stops working which is perfect, that's what we want and the alternator started working so it's charging. You saw something like 15 volts, so the alternator now works. The hour meter works. I don't know if our water temperature gauge looks like it moved a little. I only ran it for probably five or 10 minutes, I wouldn't even say that, I would probably say three or five minutes, um, there's still no power coming out of the generator side, so I think what we're going to do is try to flash.

We're going to try re-exciting the exciter the same way we did the other time with the battery and see what happens, so I don't know exactly how long this will last, but we'll do it the same day. Likewise, the rearmost brush holder is the negative one that definitely did more of something than ever before and let's try to start our suction again still nothing. I'm going to try again, well I don't know. so I think there's something else going on. I have a few more things to check, but for tonight we cleaned a few things, we have the alternator working, we have the hour meter working.

I don't know if the temperature gauge is working or not, but I'd go ahead and call that some winds for today. Hopefully, we can figure it out. I'm sure I will. It will just be a question of how long it will take, how many attempts I will have to calculate. It's over, but big win with the alternator, big win with the hour meter, I still have a bunch of wires. I don't know what they're going for. The wiring diagram is not the best, but yeah, awesome, so while I was cleaning this thing, it rusted. painted I went ahead and just put a coat of black on the entire filter housing, it looks a little better here is our old filter, got a new Wix.

One thing that is important to know about these style filters is if they have a hole in the end like this, be sure to get a new washer now. I bought one of these and the parts store basically sent it to me and it was like this wasn't there, just the sticker was here and I went back to the store and thought it was missing. the washing machine, well this washing machine here is the old one that was here, they couldn't find one and they basically said why don't you use the old washing machine? Well, two reasons, one, it's not what I paid for.

I paid for one. new part I want the parts that come with it two, this rubber deteriorates over time and gets harder and the problem with that is that it's not that I can't use that washer, it's probably still good, the problem is that there is a hole If any unfiltered air or dirt and debris passes through that hole, it basically bypasses the filter and goes directly into the engine. It is very important that this hole is sealed so that no air can pass through there and all the air has to escape. through the filter paper and then into the engine so make sure you find the little washer if you have to screw your air filter uh into the choline filter housing like on this one so just a quick note let's add this and then I have perfect filtered air so I poked around down here and I'm looking at this right there and actually the more I look at it I think it might be a diode and when I cleaned it the wire was connected. down here down here, so I crimped on a new end and basically used this as a nut, but I'm going to show you that energy will only go in one direction and that's essentially what a diode does: it allows energy to go in one direction but not towards back. to the other side and then there was a wire soldered right there.

You can see the remains of it, so I'm thinking that this wire coming from the actual brush here on the alternator side of this generator G of the

welder

is on the wrong side here and I'm not getting power to generate or excite this side of the generator, so let's take it out and turn it over okay this is the diode and the more I look I can see the epoxy right there around the edge normally there would be some numbers. I'm going to clean this up and see if there are numbers, but I'll show you on the meter what you need to do is put it here and your diode mode is this small like uh arrow with a stick through it, so to understand it, I push this here and now we have the diode mode and what that does is essentially, I'm pretty sure the red is always the powered side or basically where the power goes through, so if I take this move this up so you can see the screen a little bit better, so if I take this and put one end here and one end on the other side in one of these modes, I shouldn't get anything so no power flows out of this.

Stick to this, so now if I take and put this here, you can see we're getting a reading, so the power is flowing from here to the bolt, but it's not allowed to flow back up and into the alternator, basically the These are the brushes on the front and that's what you want and maybe that's our everything, well, I don't know if that's a problem, I say that a lot, um, that's a problem so that that way it works if we flip. also works which means it's working properly so I'm going to remove this wire here probably just cut this end off and we'll solder it directly onto this stud there and then we can install it and we'll give it a try yeah I think all the marks disappeared, but what I did here was I took out the old wire and then I tinned it, which basically means you cover it with solder and then that allows you to run the wire through and we'll do it. that into the machine and then you're ready to basically put the new solder in, we'll tin the wire and then we'll install it.

This is flux and it will make the solder flow and go where I want a nice solid connection. Now let's try it for real. The quick routine row might have gotten a little hot, well, well cleaned, it must have had something like a flow or something because now the power is not flowing back to that wire, but the power is flowing from that wire down through him so I cleaned this up I think the rating for any diode size has been oxidized so I don't know let's try that first if we end up needing to figure out what size diode is um we'll look at it then but for now that It's definitely a problem and I hope it does something good for us.

I need to get one of these diode rectifiers, essentially it's this square box with a bunch of wires and then I need to get two new circuit breakers, so these are circuit breakers. Both are garbage, but currently work. I put power into them and am taking power out of them so they need to be replaced, but I replaced the outlet. I put in a new 20 amp outlet with some pan head screws instead of uh Um instead of the flat heads that never work later um yeah, I'm starting to button some of this up and figure it out okay, so this is what I know. called a bridge rectifier or a diode bridge rectifier and basically what they are are four dodes a diode is an electrical device that allows energy to go in one direction and not come back in the other direction so a diode symbol is basically you have a line, there is an arrow and a line, and that symbol means that power. it can flow that way, but then that line denotes that it can't flow back this way, so this diode or this bridge rectifier is essentially a square with four points and the way it's set up is it basically goes in the shape of an arrow. . this way the line Arrow this way a line there and then these go up Arrow directingthinking right in this area, so there are three good places for the gauges right there, which would be on the instrument panel, right there where it is.

I would look at it, um, the other thing I'm thinking instead of just putting a switch here, what I should probably do is add an actual key switch, one with glow plugs, turning it that way and then you turn it off and then you turn it on. . the fuel solenoid and then all the way this way would be cranking and then you turn it on and then you leave it in the key on position while it's running and then you pull this to turn off the engine and then you turn the key and take it out. and then you would be ready to rock and roll, you would have the fuel cut off in the right place, you wouldn't have an extra switch to remember what it is, what you do with it etc, you just have that key switch that does everything for you, glow plugs and it turns on the fuel, turns off the fuel, turns off, etc. so man I'm so excited I thought I was headed down a path of well this thing is garbage and it's not worth spending any more time on and we're not. not down that road, this thing is absolutely worth bringing back to life, so let's get some electronics, throw them in there, here are our two new 15 amp circuit breakers, 250 volts AC and 50 volts DC, here's basically our new bridge rectifier.

The diode bridge put that in and then I know I said maybe I was going to do a key switch right now. I'm going to take this little momentary switch and replace it with just a toggle switch and that will give us the ability to flip it. circuit on and not having to push the button, so I went in today and I heard this noise, I heard that, this hour counter was clicking, now we're at 2485, so there's about 15 extra hours in the machine now, basically, what What happened was that I left this. on I replaced this momentary switch with a real switch and left it in the on position.

I thought I had disconnected the battery, maybe I didn't, but that's exactly what I thought would happen if it needed to be turned on, but you can stop it mechanically, so let's flip this switch. It really wasn't working very well. I found a new one and this one has one of those that doesn't involve me, but the nice thing is that it will stick out and stand out when it's on, so if it's like this it has to stick out, so it'll be something visual that basically tells me to turn it off and the another thing I'm going to add is just a little light bulb.

I found this. I cut off the end where the green is and added some extension to ground that green end. This end will go to the switched side of the switch so that when this switch is on, not only will it stick out, but we will have a light indicating that it is on, another thing that basically tells me to turn it off. I found out that this is another twist, basically, I don't know what these things are called, but Basically, when you press this down, it turns off. I'm going to use this cover because it actually says on off.

This one doesn't say anything. No, it doesn't really matter, but this one is also a little older. I knocked around a bit and it fits the machine a little better, so I'm going to throw these out and got rid of a lot of wire nuts. There was a wire nut over here. There was a wire nut for this. cable to a different cable. The only wiring I have left is this one for that solenoid, but I've been cutting the ends off and putting shrink tubing and a better connector on a lot of these. The other thing I realized was that I was testing these cables, but I wasn't testing them for amps.

I was testing the DC voltage, so essentially that won't tell me how many amps are going to be put out. Also, I wasn't soldering, so there's a very good chance that we plugged some wires into this and it solders beautifully, so I think what we're going to do is install that switch and then turn it on. I have some cables that I brought. I think they will connect to this if they don't we will figure it out. I just want to run a wire and see if we can make an arc. If we can make an arc and start welding, we can start marking and trying to figure out what we should do as to whether it's welding good, if it's welding good, then man, we just start doing a lot of various things and start fixing what be it, but at this point, the overall goal, like I said before, is to see if not only does the engine work but it will work as a generator and it will work as a

welder

, if it does those things, then we will dive into the fuel tank, try to clean it , maybe we'll do something. cosmetic stuff maybe add some different gauges maybe even mount it on a trailer.

I have a trailer that I could use to put this on and you know there's a bunch of other things I have, you know, potentially adding a DC amperage meter so we can basically know what it's actually outputting. We have a new belt if we need it and then we have a brush seat commutator cleaner, so essentially if we get what we want from this weld, we're going to put some lipstick on the pig. It seems to hold coolant wonderfully. It doesn't leak a drop of oil anywhere. The engine runs wonderfully. So let's move on. Let's do those few things.

Flip that switch. and we'll see if we can get some solder out that should work great and for now I just have this bulb here. I'm not going to install it permanently yet because I haven't decided if I want to make a key switch that would eliminate this and this and then with a key switch there we would still have many. I would still like to have one and it will only be on when the key is in the on and go position, but for now that's what this switch is essentially our go position because here we have our glow plugs and our starter and then the middle as well It's like running, but without this switch we can't feed our fuel. solenoid just as easily and that only matters because of the emergency stuff, the emergency shutdown in case of low oil pressure or high coolant temperature.

I want to show you these are the brushes that this welder has, it has four sets of two, these were A couple of them were slightly corroded, so I basically took some 400 grit and tried to keep the same curve that was already there, but the I did a little cleaning just to get rid of the dirt and grease and really that Ness foam that was on the bottom I think caused a lot of corrosion and things down here that caused a lot of problems with this thing since it was sitting for so long, but we're going to correct without problem, so clean these two brushes and the actual brush.

The holder is this one and on the other side two of the brushes were completely glued to this base and this base, this strap here is steel, but this is all copper, so I'll show you basically what I do: I just turn my vacuum and then take the wire wheel, it's not finished yet, but we're getting to bare copper and essentially that's the goal. I'm going to clean this surface this surface is where the brushes actually move so they can move and there's a spring that tensions them there, so I'm going to get all that corrosion out of there, basically clean it enough, we'll put it back and should make a big difference.

I'm not an expert on this, I just know. dangerous enough to be dangerous and we're figuring it out, although we're going through this machine trying to remove little things, but I really wanted to clean up all the connections, all these wires that go to each of the brush holders. I have completely removed cleaned the nuts that hold them the bolts that hold them there I haven't done it yet, but I have to clean that clean them all I want as good a connection as we can get and that's what After all, we're good. I've been working on these main cables, generator main cables, and these three are totally fine, there were no cracks in them or breaks in the actual insulation, so I just added some heat shrink. the ends just to protect it a little better, this one here number four was completely cracked like this one, so you can see all those cracks all the way through it, but the cool thing is the cracks stop right here. so I don't have to go through the actual case to protect them so just like number four, we're going to slide some heat shrink tubing over this cable and basically seal all these broken pieces up a little bit better and then this one. it goes right there, so it was a little tricky to slide this heat shrink tube into CU.

It's barely bigger than the wire we're putting it on, but let's put it in and heat shrink it and we should have them ready to go. We're getting ready to connect some cables here so we can connect some welding cables. There we go, we have all those cables clean, the only cable we have left is the actual cable coming out. to our positive wire, this basically does the same thing, but we're going to cut it and extend it. I don't have enough basic accessories for the end of the cable to make the connections I need. to add my solder wires to it, so I have some copper tubing and it's the thickest of the different copper tubing, this is / inch, so we're going to take, we're going to measure 2 and 1/2 inches and you can be whatever you want, you can do this at home, it is extremely easy, these accessories are available.

I don't know if Nappa or Oilly sells them but I don't want to go looking for them and I had this copper tube lying around and it really doesn't take much time to do this and plus I can show you something you can do yourself in a pinch because parts stores They are not always open and this is practically free if you have the pipe there, we have our part, so Then what I do is take a wire brush, I put it in a drill and I run it through and that serves to clean the inside of the pipe to that when we go to solder the end sticks to the inside of the tube. all the dirt and debris wears off a little bit now that we have the fun part so basically take this grab your hammer I think I want a little more like this so now our wire can go in there we can crimp it and solder it and now we're going to put the hole in it, we're basically going to make a quick pilot hole to hold this in the vise so it doesn't spin on me and we're basically just going to drill it down to the size that you need, so I think this one I need one that size, so ready you could round the corners with a belt grinder or you know there are many forms of angle grinder but when you put the bolt that's going to go through here it's going to hold them together but we're also going to solder and crimp this to the wire so I've done this on many old machines and works absolutely great.

It's a quick boom. We have one, maybe not as beautiful as one that is actually made, but honestly. I don't really care, as long as we have a good connection and it's solid and secure, that's all that matters, so I'll make a few more of these and we'll connect them to the cables. I will show you how. You do that too, so on the back of the machine, where the dial is for the main amperage range, there was this and I cleaned this bar and it had this insulation and essentially the way it worked was it was screwed on. to the back of the selector and then this one, a wire went from here to the actual ground wire, the negative side of it and I think they used this to push it away from the back of the panel so it wouldn't make contact right, what?

I did it, I took the one we just made and I folded it like this at 90 and we're going to crimp the solder and then we're going to put some shrink tubing over all of this and this is temporary. I need to get new small, real outlets. for the back, for the side where we can connect it, but for now we're just trying to solder it, so we're going to put this end here and here's something else, so I was going to take these ends of the end of the cable while I'm removing it and someone soldered it to the actual connector instead of using the set screw that would have been there, you would tighten it, which is totally fine, it will be a great connection and then instead of removing it, I just cut a piece of the wire off so we can use this end, but I'm going to put this back in there, let's put this piece on another thing I found were these little rubber grommets.

I'm not exactly sure what they are for, but if I remove the metal, it fits nicely over this wire, so I'll run them through the old place where it ran. The place where the terminal would have been where we would have mounted our cables, so we tried to keep a little more protection on this cable. Now that this is not a long term solution, then what you want to do is flow. Devils! This is a flux. Flux is essentially a chemical solution that helps get the solder into the joint, so we're going to put a bunch of flux in here, put some on the wire, put them together and then we'll heat up the fit and then start putting solder in and it'll absorb it. until there.

It works very, very well. This is our shrink tube and if it's right there, I want it to go all the way to that corner and then overlap again. in the sum of the cable, so you will probably use that amount, so you have to put these things in before. This tubeshrink tube can probably be put on afterwards, but a lot of times you have to put it on before you put the accessory on because then you can't put it on afterwards because the accessories are usually too big, so you also want the shrink tube to be as far away from where you are as possible doing.

Let's take out this set screw, this little cover screw, let's push it back. so you can cover it and then we're going to put this set screw back on, this screw retains this cover over the end of the actual connector. Try to get all the little bits of copper, all the wire strands in there, it can be difficult when laying. it's big enough and that's what we're going to deal with here next we're going to crimp it well enough for me so now what we're going to do is heat up this fitting heat it up and then add solder there we go after a little bit of cleaning now we're going to slide this shrink tube over it there we go and that shrink tube shrinks 3 to one and it's double coated it's got the actual shrink outside shell and then on the inside it's got sticky glue you can see it dripping right there on the edge and that's really helps seal these joints.

I've had very, very good luck with it and have been using it for a long time. a long, long time, I really, really love this, electrical problems and electrical connections corroding is a big problem with big machines or anything, really any machine that needs batteries or electrical power, you can chase your tail for a long time and it's just something Bad grounding or bad connection and really that's what this machine has been. There have been other things that have been wrong with it, but a lot of the problems have been just putting the mouse nest in it, all the corroded wires, um, I mean, me.

I've spent hours cleaning wires that I haven't gotten a good look at, we have one of the wires done and yes, we can run it through there, make sure it doesn't rub and that it works absolutely perfect, that's how you make simple copper ends for electrical wires and They can be made in all sizes. Also if you had smaller copper, but okay, so the wire that we just made will go through this hole here, which is where the lugs are that should be, basically it should have a brass end like this and on one side the wire. on the inside it connects and what that does is essentially leaves a step St and that bolt is what you would connect with your welding cables to what I found online that these two replacement pieces with the plastic and this already integrated cost 40 dollars , so I'm going to buy some new ones, these holes here where those things were melted is where I'm going to push these little rubber gaskets in, but this cable connects here, so now, on our negative side, we have a The cable is ready to rock and roll and if I close and put the top back on and close the doors nothing will make contact with the doors perfect so now I'm going to work on the positive wire and run it through here and then we'll get the actual electrode holder on the ground on the cables and we should be able to get it up and running and test everything right now, we're going to mount this electrode holder on the actual cable here, so there should be two set screws, one here and one there. but this one, if we loosen it, it should take us to the deck, there we have that, yeah, there's our second set screw, so the cable goes in here, the cable is just pushed down by this set screw, here this screw Fixing is literally just for the cover that Basically, we're just going to peel off what we need and I don't want to solder it there.

I want to be able to remove it, but we're going to put a lot of solder on the end to make it solid. which when we put it in there it doesn't push against the soft copper, but against the soldered end of the copper wire, which makes it harder and a better connection and lasts longer. Perfect, now we have a rock hard end that we can put on that cable. now we're going to put in the solid shrink tube, there we go, there's our magic Stinger electrode holder maker, here's our setup, so I extended this wire coming out of the extra generator for the positive side and basically I'm going to use this little one. piece that should be here for now mainly because I basically set it up with a thru lug that once I get the replacements for this I can screw them right into the back of this, but for now I'm just running them through these holes. and then for the negative, I'll have to make another small little piece on the outside or inside to jump from the actual selector to this one here, so negative configuration, this set configures what we're going to do here to avoid a problem, we're going to wrap this with electrical tape because obviously we don't want all that voltage to go somewhere we don't want it to go and this is the positive side so I'm wrapping it with red I just want to see if it solders too much but like this it's like I like it just for S and G, we'll just add a little red band right here, let's run the wires, let's get some metal, see if this will burn an electrode well.

It actually solders quite well. I'm a little rusty on my stick welding, but it left a bead beautifully and even when I made some adjustments on the dial, it got colder or hotter depending on you know which direction I went. with the dial and that was one of the concerns is that obviously if you don't adjust the voltage it makes it a lot harder to use but if you do then we have a big machine on our hands and it gets stuck but it gets stuck exactly at the same RPM and sound when you're welding consistently and that's important, you definitely want to know that it basically says that when we put a load on this motor, which we haven't done yet, the motor has a lot of power and I'm very excited about that and I basically glued this square tube to this piece of round tube without a care in the world and man, I could keep going, I'm going to clean that up. real quick we'll see what the weld looks like, it won't look good, but we can look at it, so here's the first weld on this side and we're getting a lot of penetration, it's definitely spattering a little bit, but it honestly looks pretty normal.

This is running a 7018 rod, it definitely penetrates well, leaves a pretty decent bead. I have to get used to it, but this is the second one, a little more paracity in that weld, but I think I had it too high, look how. It's actually melting into the main metal of the square tube right there, so it's probably a little high amperage, but I don't really care, I mean, obviously, this isn't structural, we're not doing anything with this welding. I think it's more time practicing with this and I'll be pretty good with it. I'm excited to have it fully pumped because it solders well.

I'm looking for an exhaust manifold. I brought Scout and Maisy with me. Many of you will remember Dirty Turkey. Here, this is my Gale 4625sx that I couldn't get working. Basically it needs to rebuild the engine or it needs a new engine and I haven't been able to do anything with it, but I bought it a new exhaust manifold, so let's open up this cockpit and see if it's the right one. Well, don't you know? I think it is the correct one. It has four bolts, four bolt holes, so I brought a different exhaust manifold. What I'm going to do is take this one out and put the other one in this engine because I don't know if I'm going to rebuild this or if I'm going to put a different engine in this one. machine, but I really don't want to ruin this engine if I change my mind and decide to rebuild it.

I just measured the bolt pattern that came out of the welder and what there is is basically 2 and 1 12 Ines from center to center of these bolts and that's like 2 and 3/4 maybe a little less than that, it's a little too big but too big for what we need, so if I'm going to waste time removing it unfortunately it's not the right one, okay, I'm going to cover this up again and we'll get going since we're down here. Might as well take these two running into the woods to have Scout be the darkness. one of that color is called Blue, these are Sailors if you didn't know and Maisy is the silver one, that one is that light tan color called Silver.

I love runners, they are absolutely amazing dogs. I almost never put a leash on them. where they roam, come on maie you can hardly even see her there Scott you can make out a little better come on Maisie come on girl good girl good girls well I hope you enjoyed the process of getting this old thing up and running welder generator. I'm totally excited about getting it welded and generated and finally able to be useful, so there will be a part two on this and the second part will essentially be all the additional things we need to do to it.

I've done the two main things: Does the engine run? Will the generator turn off the electricity and allow us to weld? And we have solved those two main obstacles. Some things I'm thinking about doing, possibly even putting it on a trailer that would do it. It would be nice to have it on a small two-wheeled dolly so you could tow it, put it on a trailer, whatever is easiest to move, as well as all the other things you saw on that list that haven't been finished, so No. I always like to do the second part, but I really think this machine deserves it.

One more video and we'll get this machine exactly where I want it to be ready to go and in the Arsenal here at Salvage Workshop, so as always, thank you. for watching Salvage Workshop thanks for tuning in I really appreciate your support it means a lot as always you guys go out and try something new. You'll be surprised what you can do if you try, come on Scout, okay. dogs good girl St come good girl oh hi St oh hi yes I know it's okay come on ready come on do it good girl good girl good girl good girl okay come on come on come on Maisie Maisie come on girl I know you smell The deer I know can't tell Enough about the W Mariners, they are amazing dogs and I feel blessed to have them in my life.

These dogs have helped me get through a lot, yeah, get her, Maisy, get her, have a great time.