Save Money and DIY a Smokeless Fire Pit. Build a Pavestone Rumblestone Smokeless Firepit for cheap!

Are you thinking about

build

ing a

fire

pit? Are you thinking about doing it

smokeless

? Have you watched a couple more videos and really haven't found the video you want to

build

your

fire

place in? In this video, I'll show you how. I built this

smokeless

fire pit and had almost all the parts delivered to my house for about three hundred dollars so stay tuned for what's going on guys welcome to the guys garage my name is Matt I'm just a guy and before that we advance too much. If you like this video and subscribe, it would definitely help the channel to be highly appreciated.

Thank you. In this video I'm going to go over what parts I ordered, why I ordered them, how I built this, and things I would do differently. Start with the parts everyone is trying to build something that represents store-bought smokeless campfires. Store bought smokeless fire pits are narrow and tall to allow the wood to condense inside the fire and then allow the sides to heat up to cause a secondary burn. Some of the builds I've seen on YouTube seem to me like that. the pit is too big what I want to do is find a kit that is not only pretty A lot, everything that was there I didn't have to go buy parts it was narrow and

cheap

what I ended up buying was a round

pavestone

fire pit

rumblestone

number one and I ordered this because it was, you can find the kits for under 200 dollars. and Home Depot didn't charge me anything to have this delivered to my house, which is a definite plus.

I would also like to mention that Home Depot Pavestone or any other brands mentioned in this video are not sponsors and did not pay for this. video either way, in addition to being extremely affordable, the paver kit was also designed in a way that would make building this smokeless fire pit super easy and we'll talk about that a little later, the inside measurements are approx. 32 inches a bit. a little less than 32 inches and the outside measurement is a little less than 46 inches, so it's not a giant fire pit kit, it's narrow and condensed, which is what I was looking for.

The second thing I ended up buying was a nice, painful steel fire pit insert. Now this steel insert measures 29 inches inside diameter, 30 inches outside diameter and I believe it's 33 and a half inches to the outside lip part of the firebox insert, which would allow it to be placed inside the firebox kit and it would be about an inch on each side or around to allow air to enter, heat up and cause a secondary burn. Fire pit kit number one has 36 of what they call trap stones and then 36 of the many look like little bricks. stones there are 12 of each on each level of the fire pit.

I wanted to add one more level. I wanted to get this about 14 to 15 inches tall, but to get number two, which is another set of bricks, I had about six to seven hundred. dollars, which I thought was a little expensive at this time in 2021, some building materials are a little harder to get than others and it seems like these concrete blocks are one of those materials that are hard to come by with the kit coffee I finished. The purchase was available in other colors of the Sierra mix and I think there are a couple more colors that are hit and miss, whether stores have them or they are backordered you can order them so you just have to look around a little around you and discover it. but I was able to buy the trapezoidal paver retaining wall stones and I was able to find them in Sierra mix which is a different color but I don't think it will look that bad when it's finished, they were about two dollars per stone and I needed 12 of them for about 24.

I was able to add another level to this fire pit. The stones are close but they are a little different and what matters to me is that the exterior measurement was the same but the interior bricks were a little different. narrower and the angles were smaller, which isn't a big deal because I'll show you how I fixed that, but these had a little edge that I chose to break off with the tip of a hammer, a couple of whacks. The deal struck so at 12 bricks I also ended up buying a bag of leveling sand and two bags of lava rocks, that's all I needed so let's get on with the build.

The first thing I had to do was from the retaining wall. The stones were a different diameter than the traps that came with the Rumblestone kit. First I built the first row with all the blocks from the Rumblestone kit and that would give me an outside diameter or outside perimeter that I can mark with a piece of chalk. which I did once I had the outside perimeter marked with a piece of chalk, removed all the stones and mounted the stainless steel fire pit insert that came with the rumbling stone kit. Now this is just a stainless steel kit to assemble.

They come together fairly easily and are made to sit on top of the fire pit, but I'll use it a little differently, since we add a brick to the bottom, we'll need something to fill the space between the bottom and the top, since the nice hearth stove insert is only 10 inches deep, we're going to need about another three and a half to four inches to make up for that, so we're going to use this, so I turn it over and put it in. in the center of that chalk mark, the next thing I did was place sand on the first layer where the bricks are going to start being placed.

I did this because the edge of that stainless steel insert comes up off the ground, probably about a sixteenth of an inch isn't much, but it's enough to uneven retaining wall bricks, pavers or blocks and if you send them to one level, the rest of the build won't work well, so I used some sand to level that out so the bricks have a solid place to sit on if you just place them on the ground on sand. I don't think this is necessary as you may be able to lower it a bit and place it. I put the bricks on top of that, once I had the stainless steel fire pit insert in the ground with the sand on top, I took the retaining wall blocks and placed them where I marked with chalk where the trap blocks from the paver kit were. .

I was once I had all this, now it was time to start putting blocks on top of blocks. If you can find the paver traps that come with the Rumblestone fireplace kit you will only need 12 and I put the model numbers or SKU numbers needed for the different colors of paystone in the description below if you can find them, so this will be much easier because this design, as I was telling you before, catches small bricks, catches small bricks. Trap the small bricks around in a circle. Build that first layer. Simply remove the small bricks. You now have the intake holes or vents at the bottom of the fire pit, allowing air to enter.

They are all evenly spaced. around the fire pit in uniform, once I had the first layer in place it was time to start building the rest of the fire pit. What I did was I took the mini blocks or the square blocks and put them in the middle of the retaining wall. stones and then I put a trap between them so that the trap spans the distance between the vents at the bottom and then another mini block and then a trap around it and then I did that for three levels when it is recommended to assemble this paystone.

Using a masonry adhesive, I will recommend an adhesive from Home Depot in the description below. I chose not to use a masonry adhesive for this project because I will be taking it apart and reassembling it in another area once my patio is finished. Once all the blocks are put together and the fire pit is built, it goes together quite easily and there is no need to break anything or cut any blocks in half. It's a pretty easy build. The hardest part of building this kit was moving the blocks. from the front of the house to the back of the house, once the blocks are in place it is time to drill the holes for the upper vents in the fire pit or steel fire pit insert .

To do this, I used a 7 8 hole saw. It comes packaged in four pieces that you have to assemble, but the way I attached them was I took a piece of tape and put it on a quarter piece of the panel just to get the distance once I had that distance set or what is that extent. It's end to end on that panel, I ripped the tape off and then I put it on the table and I took a tape measure and I marked an inch and a quarter distance down the center and then I put that tape back on top and then I use a punch center and I simply put a center punch on the bottom of each line and there were my marks for the center of the holes at an inch and a quarter on center, once I had these holes marked it was pretty easy I just placed the fire pit insert into my drill press and just drilled the holes where the markings were so your drill bit or tools or cutting tools would last a little longer.

Use a cutting tool oil or cutting tool coolant. Give your cutting tools a longer life and make them more efficient because it keeps the metal cool and the tool cool when you are cutting. Don't have a drill, don't worry, you can do it by hand with a cutting tool. Coolant or oil cutting will definitely come in handy because it will make cutting those pieces much easier once all the holes have been drilled. I used a rag with a little acetone to wipe the oil or liquid off the fire cutting tool. hole insert, you want to wipe it down and clean it, it will eventually burn out, but it will cause a little black smoke when you first start and you want to avoid that.

I also used a grinder with a flap disc to round the edges. so there were no sharp edges around the hole where the hole saw went through the steel insert. Everything is clean, paint it with high temperature spray paint to make it look much cleaner, get a little more life out of it because it's not bare. The steel is going to be exposed to the elements to place this top ring inside the bottom ring, you will need a little coaxing due to the fact that even though the outer ring or the ring on the bottom is stainless steel.

The steel ring is 31 inches, it's octagonal so it's 31 in one space and 29 and a half in another so you're going to have to do a little coaxing to get this top ring in and to coax it I used four pounds. sledgehammer, I just put my knee on the bricks, held them in place and hit them a couple of times. This separated one panel a bit and I simply put a brick in the hole to help stop the air from just sucking to the bottom. from the fire once the bottom ring was coaxed enough to let the top ring fit inside it it fits very easily now it's time to add the lava rock but first before I do that I took two of the mini leftover paver blocks and laid them down. on each side to block the hole where the ring separated to avoid being hit with a hammer.

I did this to help slow down all the air coming out of the bottom vents inside the bottom of the fire and not making it to the top. of the steel ring for the secondary burn after this is in place, all I did was take two bags of lava rocks, put them on the bottom and then level them a little with my hands. Now I use lava rocks. Want something? large, you don't want to use sand because you want the fire to be able to carry oxygen underneath as well. Now, if you look at a store-bought smokeless fire pit, they have tons of vents at the bottom. to keep that fire well oxygenated so it burns efficiently, I keep that fire in a more closed container, I keep that fire more contained so it gets hot, it gets hotter than the size of that chimney to allow for that secondary burning, so I hope that this compartment 29-inch fire compartment Measures 29 by 14.

The 15-inch fire compartment is good enough to create secondary combustion Once everything was built, it was time to test it out. I just put some wood in there and some tp, lit a fire and it worked. Great, now this fire pit is not 100% smokeless, it smokes 100% less than what I had before which was just a typical store bought patio fireplace, pretty

cheap

, worked well, made fires that produced tons of smoke , but this definitely works much better. a couple of mistakes starting the fire, the fire I started was above the secondary burn holes which created a little more smoke because the wood was above it, the burning material was above that secondary burn, once it crumbled and fell it burned much cleaner and much hotter if i were to build this again the first thing i wouldn't do is not use the one and a quarter inch holes in the center i would make them two inches in the center, I just think an inch and a quarter was too close. together to really get that second, that hot secondary burn, it works great, don't get me wrong,but to get that hot secondary burn, I think you need to space the holes a little further apart.

I would try two inches in the center, hope you can. I liked this video and I hope it helps you if you like and subscribe, like I said before it would definitely help the channel and would be greatly appreciated. My name is Matt. I'm just a guy. If I can't fix it, I will. fix it so no one else can thanks for watching