K Swapping My Honda Civic - Episode 2

In the previous

episode

of the case, I took my 1997 Honda Civic ek hatch and removed its B 16 B engine. This is not the car's original engine, so replacing it with the K series is no big deal. I don't think I haven't seen all the comments about this below. Drove to J spec Auto to pick up a jd MK 20 in perfect condition for an engine, then it was time to completely strip the engine bay so I could paint it. white. I did this with a rival can based paint and clear coat, but I think it turned out very well with a clean engine bay.

I couldn't put all the old parts back in, so I replaced everything with new parts as much as I could. Includes a large box of new stainless steel bolts. I bought them on Amazon, that's where I bought them. I got so many messages about this anyway, with the engine bay reassembled the car was now ready to take some k24 pudding so I took the car to a case while I'm an expert in Wisconsin hi my name is a nice prairie guard we are here at my ASM shop here at ASM we build fast cars our specialty is K swamps we do a lot of 2000K swaps but we've been known to put them on just about anything so yeah it's just me in the shop working full time.

I have two small part-time people who come in and help me with some other things to allow me to focus more on work. handy if you haven't seen a friendly meadow guard on this channel before, he is one of the fastest drivers we have ever filmed, he has been in many of our grid life videos in the past driving his monster of a Evo and even his personal K swapped s2000 which you may have seen in our video last week on ice racing, plus the man moves, is incredibly talented and hard working, and I'm delighted that I was able to convince him to work on my little Civic , your ASM store.

It is more of an exclusive store dedicated to slope-oriented people. He doesn't usually do standard oil changes. He usually just does the bills further afield, so I'm glad he decided to take on this case. It's definitely more of an exclusive shop where we try to work with our same customer base, we don't take a lot of OVI, your quick in and out stuff. I want to take care of the entire car, basically do all the general maintenance. any modification and that even extends beyond when it leaves the workshop. Many times I will meet clients at the track and help them with track setup as well as driver training, so I try to do the complete package from the planning stages of getting a car to building it and running it on the track, putting a K in an e K chassis is a little easier than an S.

You know, converting the decay, which is just a front drive motor, into an s2, it's a little easier to turn . All you have to do requires a little more adapters and such. The K Danny Kaye has been tried and true. A lot of after-sales support has been provided, so it's a little easier, especially when we have a company like K Tuned on board. Here to help with all the parts, they make a lot of swap kits or a lot of swap parts to make it practically a Bolton kit, so this week we are going to change to the ek Civic meeow meeow where we will swap Mia and we will put a JDM K 24 in her The K 24 we're going to start with is basically the K 24 8.

We'll open it up and do some quick internal things. We will put an S type oil pump. It will give a little more rev range. We'll seal it with a Moroso oil pan with baffles. This part will see clues at the moment that the stock bottom end of the K 24 is quite tough, it should need a lot of power, even the boost you can throw. 5 600 net horsepower those stock bottom ends and they'll take it for a while, I think that's the best combination and what I've found with some of that, things that I've done a lot of testing with is that k24 bottom end up with the z3k 23 head and If you can increase the compression on the bottom end, great, but for this project we'll start with just stock 10 10 and 10 1/2 to 1 compression and replace the head. with a z3 head, which is the 8th gen

civic

SI head, while we're at it, we'll put a 50 degree cam here to give a little more torque range and we'll drop into some camps so we'll have a drug cartel on his endurance race.

The cam should provide a nice thick power band there, so we're going to put an RB intake manifold seat on the right. See the RBC is a generation H intake manifold and the SI

civic

? Putting a lot of K tuned parts in the car, some fuel. up the throttle body a bunch of good stuff and then we'll feed it 85 and from there we'll put it on the dyno and see what kind of power we can make. Everyone is very obsessed with dyno numbers and there are absolutely no standards for chassis dynos, so what you see on one dyno can't really be compared to the other dyno.

I don't even care if it's like a Mustang dyno for a Mustang dad, no one reads the same thing, you know, if I tighten my belt on the dyno super tight or something, or you strap a car with super tight straps that they will change the numbers so it's very difficult to compare numbers from one dyno to another, so with that said my dyno usually hits 260 on many of these s2's. I need to have a higher compression engine, I guess the cars will maybe, we'll see, yeah, I guess we'll see, that's all I can say, I mean, they'll bunch up for maximum power, we'll do everything we can. .

It can and will do what it does, let's get to work, we have 24 hours, the first step in this whole process is to tear down the JDM k24 engine almost to the bare block as we are putting almost all new parts on this engine to make it even more powerful we are going to remove all the parts we are not using which I think most of them are correct we are actually

swapping

the z3 head so we are literally using the short block what a waste huh JDM engines are set up very differently than the USDM engines and because we are changing all the accessories on this engine with the USDM spec Boltons, we will need to change all the brackets to fit as well. making it much easier in the future if I ever need to replace parts because there will be US spec parts so my parts stores will have them.

Can you imagine trying to order a JDM-spec Oh 60 SX alternator? You would have to pay. An arm and a leg to spend the night in Japan, but with us, specific parts, it's just a call to advance auto parts. Ok, can I get that and a water pump for the same car? Let's start with the low end. We're not going to change the connecting rods or pistons, but we're going to have to upgrade the lubrication system to help this car perform better on the track. We are going to change the factory oil pump to an S type oil pump that will allow the car to accelerate faster and higher to generate more power and reduce rotational mass and while we have the oil pan off we will change it at any time in your case, changing whatever you do, the best adjusted conversion, that's what it does, so there's a very critical one. part of the conversion and there is an oil passage that goes up from the block towards the rebound shafts, you have to cover it.

If you don't plug it you will obviously have very low oil pressure and will probably eventually kill an engine. of some things, you have a new deflector, so this is the deflector with the balance shafts, it's very small, obviously, because you have the balance shafts, so you can burp with this, you have to get a new pump chain of oil, new hardware and then a new one. of the new guide so you should get this guide it is slightly different than the one with the balance shaft but it will use the same tensioner so this one uses a small spring tensioner so it will use the same one you removed and then the most important part, obviously, is the oil pump.

A small modification you need to make. If you purchase the factory pump you must attach and/or cut half of this pump to allow clearance or in the block, the S type oil pump is a good upgrade because it also eliminates the heavy balance shafts that the factory oil pump, which means less rotational mass, which will allow the engine to spin more freely. It also cuts a few pounds, so I can't complain about that and the guy. With the oil pump installed, it's time to seal it with an oversized oil pan with baffles, so that if oil sloshes against it, that will keep it closed but then allow it to flow back in when you're accelerating, for example.

If you're always trying to keep the oil close to the truck, baffled oil pans are important if you plan to take your car to the track because it keeps the oil close to the oil pickup at the oil pump without a pan. oil with baffles, you are much more likely to take oil pressure off the engine when cornering hard, ask me how I know we are going to remove the k24 head next and replace it with a k23 head and a bunch of extra stuff while Andy remove the head from the k24. Ronnie just joined us and brought a new k23.

Let's get to work Hi guys, Ronnie, here this to help with the head preparation. We're cleaning this head right now because it's freshly made and sometimes we have all the chips still stuck in the ports so I have to make sure everything. Those things are gone or I'll end up inside the engine. No, it's a JDM engine. It's probably, I don't know, between fifty and eighty thousand miles on it. The used engine probably sat around four to five years without running. that's typical and you know, carbon buildup on the pistons and dirty oil that's probably been here for five years doesn't bother me.

I've seen enough of these where it doesn't faze me, but then here. He's just walking back and forth, so take the head off and he'll swap it out for the z3 head, which flows a little better. Ron's there putting some strap train stuff in there trapping that as soon as he's done there we should be able to blow this up. Restart the engine, replace all the timing components, put the engine back in the car, and start working on assembling all the other little things. Andy cleans the carbon deposits off the pistons before installing the ARP head bolts.

These head bolts are a little overkill. for this build as I'm not turbo on the motor but it doesn't cost much extra and they are reusable if I ever want to get the motor back. Clark, meanwhile, Ronnie is changing the valve seals and springs to fit the upgraded cams. We are doing double valve springs so I had to remove all the seals and seats and replace them, but this is a higher flow head. The z3 is known to have better flow even on the stock ports so just extract as much as you can from a k24 this would be best, best to start with the generator they should run 240 to 250 as given but when The combination works, they do it very well, so we'll see.

I have some work on making these upgraded valve springs in combination. with the oil pump will help this 2.4 liter engine accelerate to almost 9,000 RPM. There are things super stuck. I'm going to screw this in and next are the cams. I have a tracker that tells the cams that they are approaching. You already asked this. It's good that they put on. first they like it a little tight and then they read rusyn and start over they make the head feel flat but Andy how much of our horsepower comes from these cams? Ultimate in 30, motor racing is powerless, well not without them, no way. which Kim is absolutely yes sir um that's a good question actually see how much more power hopefully 10 15 P but I think these cans are more designed for the wide power band so they might even be yes yes if max horsepower to numbers that I know everyone on the internet loves to see horsepower numbers, that's not what it's about, it's about making the curve bigger, getting more area under the curve and that It's what they're supposed to do if we're running 2.2 drag cartels, drag racing camps.

Few people recommended that I use the more aggressive 3.2 cams, but these two-point-two cams will actually generate more mid-range power under the curve and better overall engine utilization. The three-point-two cams might make a higher peak horsepower number, but I care. More about the usable power band rather than the dyno peak power numbers. Bigger numbers aren't always better unless you want to brag on the internet, but I care more about the overall powerband, which is the best thing about a n/a K-series engine. After installing the cams and adjusting the valves, it's time to button up the internal parts of the enginewith some good Philip K Tune pieces.

Almost everything K Tune makes is billet aluminum, which is incredibly strong and incredibly light. Their pieces are also usually lists of joints. They are cut with rubber O-rings so you never have to worry about scraping and cleaning gasket services and with the internal work of the old one complete, it's time to work on the external Boltons and prepare them to fit on the car, but that will have to wait for the next

episode