K Swapping My Honda Civic – Episode 1

This is my replica of the 1997 Honda Civic Type-R. It has the B16 B engine from the Civic Type-R and accelerates to 9,000 rpm. It is fun. I've had it for almost a year and we've traveled the entire continent with it to Key West, Florida and all the way to Nova Scotia, Canada. I had a lot of fun with him. It's not a fast car, it's definitely a slower car, but it's a lot of fun. I took it too. to a bunch of race tracks like Ginger Moon Raceway in Michigan to do a motorsports bit in Canada and most recently I took this to Virginia International Raceway and raced my friend with his Integra Type R and also traded in the Honda Civic if you haven't.

I've seen the video, check it out, everyone has been telling me that I need K to run this Civic and that I have a lot more fun with it with more power. Now I realize that that will make it a little less fun to drive on the street, but I'm okay with that, I've enjoyed it for a year and it's time to move on to something different, so we'll almost double the power of this car by putting a k24 with the K 20 head and with the With the help of K Tune we will have a lot of Bolton parts on this car, hopefully we will make about 260 horsepower at the wheels.

We have big plans ahead for this little Honda and it all starts right now. The first step to any engine swap is Obviously, removing the old engine is bittersweet for me because I love this B 16 B. It's a fantastic engine. There aren't many engines that have such a smooth power band and exhale at 9,000 rpm. The B 16 B is an iconic engine and it's a very popular setup for good reason, people say that Hondas are easier to work on and that might be true if you know what you're doing, you know it's like I think any car you know how to work on is going to work.

It will be easier than cars you don't know how to work on. I've done a little work on this before the road trip, so I know the basics a bit, but I don't know all the little things like most of you. I know the Honda guys do it. I'm sure it would be a lot easier if I knew all the little things. Despite not working much on Honda, it's actually pretty easy to take apart. There's a good reason why Honda has the reputation it does. being easy to work on, everything was going great until I got to the shifter pin known as a pin, so I'm working on this pin here on the shift linkage which is known as a pin and is appropriately named because it doesn't move .

You're supposed to hammer it and I'm hammering it, but it's yours against gravity, so it's hard to give it a little boom. I hit this thing probably hundreds of times. I haven't seen food at all, of course, it's hardened steel, appropriately named. That didn't take anything other than that pin on the shift linkage, but we're ready to get the motor out just fine. Honestly, it wasn't that bad. It only took a couple of hours, not as fast as I can get an escort out. engine but pretty good considering I've never taken a B series out of a suit before and it wasn't that bad so it's a little sad to see this engine running because I love this engine so if you're thinking about doing a Swap the Series B on your Civic definitely do it like you don't have to spend all the money on a case but I'm going to see how the case is so it's supposed to be better it's hard to believe you can have a better engine in this thing because I love it but it's time to move on you don't have six big guys so I load up vp-16 beat in the back of my truck and I'm going to J spec Auto which is in Richmond it's about two hours from where I am and then I'm also going to pick up my K 24.

They have a K 24 8 in very good condition, very low mileage, technically since in the stadium, it's like only two K. 24 a, but it's a 2008 TSX engine, so It has all the features and power to generate the most toric power possible and is in the best condition possible. There's my new engine. I want it, what is it? this engine, why are we going to buy this one? This is the engine we decided to use for the exchange. It is an O 6 k 24 a, but the RB b2 head we can say that this particular one has been quite well maintained, there is something good about it. features to look out for like the Honda oil filter, this was an automatic transmission model so we know the automatics were outclassed a little less because the previous owner probably wasn't knocking gears in Japan, typical of other JDM engines what we have. one has pretty low miles, around 60,000 and you know all of these engines are taken out of running cars and we back them with a 90 day warranty so it looks pretty clean too, just looking from the outside, the aluminum It looks very bright, we checked it.

Here are the three lobes, which are apparently different from the 2 lobes. I guess so, the 3 loved ones we call real VTEC. Both loved ones, the Honda community knows it is fake VTEC, but this one has three lobe cams and the larger valve. It should be a great contender for what Ben plans to do with this sweet, so this is definitely the best way to get as much power out of the K 24 block as possible, so I'm going to put a K 20 head on it. Okay, although this is a big head oh no I mean the K series you know you can go to the moon with the power in the setup so I'm definitely excited to see what you do with this one yeah I'm aiming for a 260 260 wheel or that . quite a few, yes, all of these air conditioning components I need to remove from the engine bay so I can put a full size radiator in the front and obviously that's a different compressor than I would use on the wall of the box so than all that.

It has to come out little done. I forgot to drain the air conditioning system of its freon before taking the engine out, which means I can't drive the car to a shop and drain it, so I had to tow it to a shop and have it drained. From the lesson learned from towing, drain the freon before you start working on the car. Alright, now we finally remove the freon and a PVC system. We can properly remove the compressor capacitor on all the engine compartment AC lines to give us something. more room to clean up the engine bay in preparation for painting, let's start off right, we've got everything out of this engine bay and it looks great, basically, I mean, there's nothing here.

I left the brake lines here because I didn't want to open up the system and let all that air in and make it a big mess, especially when I can remove it, so I'll cover that wrap with some duct tape and it should be fine. to go there, these are the radiator brackets here, they need to be drilled, one of these here is for the radiator and the other one is for the air conditioning condenser. I'm going to use a full size radiator for obvious reasons as I'll be on the right track so I'll have to get rid of the four and fit my own brackets that come with a K tune full size radiator kit.

You should still be able to fit the Integra AC condenser in front of the radiator so you should still be able to have the best of both worlds but yes before I paint this engine bay I want to remove them because otherwise there would be stains under each one one of these that are not painted and wouldn't look very good so I'm going to remove them so we can I can fit the full size radiator here so first I have to drill them and then once I do that I can start cleaning, degreasing and sand the engine bay to be ready for some paint.

This engine bay is absolutely filthy, it's obviously never been cleaned since 1997, so we need to remove all the dirt and grime from the surface of this paint so the new paint will adhere to it. The painting is in prep work so it is important that you take your time, this may seem like an easy task. task, but what this time lapse doesn't show is how long it actually took just greasing the engine bay took several hours and by the time I got to sanding the engine bay my arms were so tired I had to call my fiancé, For extra help, we start with a coarse grit and work more gently until we get to 400 to 600 grit.

This is the optimal roughness for the paint to adhere without seeing sanding marks underneath, talking about the paint. I'm making a rattle can. Cutting paint I'm not a professional and this is definitely not the best way to do it, but it is the best way I am capable of and it should meet the quality standards I have for this car, I hope at that time. The period was quite interesting. I've spent about four days painting this engine right now. I'm glad I took the time to do it because it looks fantastic, ready for the final step of applying the clear coat.

Well, I've done it. I completed the paint look of this, totally painted the engine bay and it looks pretty good. I still have it all recorded here, so I'll go ahead and remove the tape now that we can see everything better here. but I'm pretty surprised how it turned out, it has a nice shine to it, it's very clean, it really looks the same as om, so I'm very, very happy with how well it turned out, the firewall looks great. Everything looks great, so now it's time to remove all the tape from the engine bay and start putting things back on after the paint dries.

Now it's time to start reassembling the engine. The day I thought about putting the old parts back in for only about three seconds before replacing everything with new parts as much as I could. I even bought two hundred dollars worth of new stainless steel hardware so I wouldn't have to fight with any rusty bolts in the future. I used a higher quality steel. bolt for the structural components and these stainless steel bolts for everything else in between and for the parts that didn't need to be replaced. I made sure to clean and paint them to make everything look new, so this is the old subframe, this is the EK Subframe, if you look at it upside down from the engine bay it would be more like this, but this is what I removed from the car and you'll notice how wide it is throughout this center section, right here, so I'm going to put it in this stuff room where it's from an Integra.

I think it is the same as an example. You'll notice how much thinner the subframe is. It still has a lot of rigidity, but they put the string rack on top. of it instead of into it, so basically what that does is give you two more inches of space in the engine bay, that way basically the cable sits further back in the engine bay and distributes the weight a little bit better overall, it just gives I have more room in the engine bay to do things and be able to work on it and put parts on it and clean out a full size radiator and that kind of thing, so let's go ahead and put this mark now.

Alright, we've caught the Civic on the ground for the first time in a week or two. Everything in terms of suspension is united. At this point it's just a roller, so we can roll it onto the trailer to take this bad boy to Wisconsin. I'm taking this to Wisconsin to get the motor and transmission and the whole case will have stuff on it so you'll have to keep an eye out for that in the next

episode

. I'm going to cut this one here. I hope you've enjoyed everything you've seen so far. The next

episode

will be out shortly after.

It won't be months like it is for escort bills or other bills like that. This build is being phased out and, in fact, should. In theory, this will be done within a week in Wisconsin under the masterful skill of a nice prairie guard. He's basically going to put the case pop and everything related to it on this car, but until then, thanks for watching and stay tuned for the next one. episode