Jeep 4.0L Camshaft Upgrade | Jeep Cherokee XJ

Hey guys, welcome back to the Jeeping YouTube channel. My name is Austin and in today's video I'm going to show you how to replace the

camshaft

on your 4.0 Jeep engine. If you watched my last video I got the The entire front end of this Jeep is destroyed that's because we are doing a rebuild series since I hit a deer with this a few weeks ago and right now since we have the engine completely exposed on the front, it's the perfect time to go. Jump in and start changing components while they're easy to get to and one of them will be the

camshaft

.

Now I will guide you step by step through this entire process, from disassembling the engine that we are going to have. remove the cylinder head and all that and replace the components along with the new camshaft that we're going to put in here now. This will be the same process if you have a factory cam that you are adding or if we are doing an

upgrade

d one, which is what I am doing today with an

upgrade

d Comp Cam, so let's go to the bench and look at all the components that we are replacing today and then We'll dive into the Jeep and start taking things apart, so let's take a look at all the components we're going to replace today.

Let's start with the camshaft. Here we have a Comp Cams. A new camshaft for this Jeep 4.0. We have two different options you can get for this right here. We're making a soft cam, which means we can use our stock valvetrain in our head here and don't have to worry about special adjustments on this cam as well. The axle works with our factory tune, so we won't have to update our ECU or anything like that. The part number on this one is 16321 D5, so it will be a great replacement cam that will add about 10 to 15 horsepower. and maybe 15 to 20 P lbs of torque, um is what the numbers say online, nothing significant, but with the low horsepower engine like the Jeep 4.0, it could be noticeable, especially um, going down the highway and if Do you have bigger tires or something. should help give us a little more low rev torque now, along with a new camshaft, we're going to have to replace other components, like our lifters here, so we have 12 new lifters and since this is a running engine flat, that means the lifters mount directly onto the camshaft, there is metal to metal contact, which means they will have a unique wear pattern with each individual.

Lifter on the cam lobe and we can't use the old one. because they did it with the existing camshaft so having a new camshaft that will also have to mate with new lifters and along with that I have some new pushrods right here as they once again have some wear only. patterns on the top of the lifter and also on the valvetrain and are pretty cheap. I think these are only two dollars a piece at Rock Auto, so I also got 12 of those now that we're doing this job. having to remove the cylinder head so we can get the old lifters out and all that and along with that we have some new gaskets that we are going to replace up here, the main one we have in the head. gasket and then we also have our intake and exhaust gasket right here since we're going to have to remove those manifolds on the side of the head as well and moving to the left, we have a new head bolt box here now. with head bolts, you can use them up to two times, is what people usually say, but if you don't know if your heads were removed before or if those were the original bolts, it's always good to buy another set of head bolts as well .

They're pretty inexpensive, about $30 or so now, along with what's underneath we have our new timing kit, so with that timing kit it comes with a new timing chain, uh, chain guide and new sprockets , since this engine has probably never been taken apart and has high mileage, the timing chain is most likely very stretched and with a new cam you will definitely want to have your chain in Spec um so that way your engine will run properly now down here I have a new harmonic balancer that doesn't need to be replaced and since mine failed before and I replace it with a used one that I had in a pinch, technically I still have a used one in there and it's showing signs of cracking and stuff. like that, so we went and bought a new one that we can put in there as well.

Now obviously we're also going to have to remove the timing cover on the engine so we can get the camshaft out and along with that. I also have a new set of timing cover gaskets. Now let's talk about other little things with the installation of this camera. I went out and got a new set of cams. Lubricant. This is the Comp Cams brand here, but this will help us. cover our new camshaft and lifters when we are installing this so that on the first start everything is properly lubricated that way it seats nice and doesn't run out of oil on those first few rotations and I'm also going to add additional zddp to the oil that is currently in the engine right now, you don't necessarily have to put new engine oil in it while you do the cam swap, since we'll replace it right away anyway. you just don't want to make sure it's too dirty or too worn out.

Mine only has about 1,500 mil so I'm going to add a little more zddp and then after that cam break in period I'm going to change the oil put new oil in and then add a little more zddp and then it should be ready to go. One thing I want to mention if you are also installing one of these Comp Cams, they have a kit. of instructions here, you'll want to take a look at this because they have a ton of great tips on what to do and what not to do while installing this. There will be many things here that I will gain.

I won't mention them all today, but I hope I can walk you through the process of installing this cam into the engine right here. But this is definitely a great thing to check out that way you won't miss any steps and hopefully you'll avoid any camera failures while you're setting it up, that's the last thing you want to do so we want to do everything correctly and then, basically textbook state of things so we don't have any problems, so now that we've gone over all the components that We're going to put into the Jeep engine right here, let's go to the Jeep itself and then we'll take a look at all the components that we basically need to remove from the engine in order to get to this camshaft. and replace it so let's go okay so let's take a look at the engine bay right here we're pretty much where we left off in the last video.

I did a couple things like replace the water pump right here and then I also removed our power steering pump to go ahead and replace that power steering pulley that was basically broken and everything, but other than that we're pretty much where we were before to put a new water PP in here which I don't think will be on the way but time will tell once we start tearing this down if I had to remove it it's no big deal but if you didn't see the video right before Of this, I highly recommend it, since we had the entire front. torn end so that way we can access this camshaft up here, but if you're starting from scratch, you're going to have to remove all the coolers and stuff from here because that camshaft is coming. from the front of the engine, right where my hand is, and it's going to have to have some room to get in, so having everything here at the front is going to make everything a lot easier now that I look at this. a little bit more about other components that also need to be removed, now obviously we need to remove the cylinder head so we can remove our lifters that are mounted on top of the camshaft, to do this we have other components attached to our cylinder head um, so we have all our intake manifold, we've got our exhaust manifold that's underneath and then we've got a bunch of other little sensors and stuff, we're going to have to disconnect from our intake manifold, our air box, we're going to have to remove that, we've got the spark plug wires and then we have this bracket that goes to the cylinder head that also holds our AC compressor down here, so let's start with this.

I'm going to start by removing some. small hoses, our throttle cables, all the vent hoses and all that, then we're going to have to remove our fuel line, basically, everything that's in this intake manifold, and we're going to remove it all in one. piece, we leave all the injectors and things like that still there, but we're just taking off sections at a time, so that's what I'm going to start with and start removing some components. We have our respirator right here that goes into our air box and we pop it. that gets this out of the way we're going to remove the valve cover so we want anything that's blocking or uh wedged into it to come out of there basically now while you're removing the components it's always good to have a table that's clear everything set up so you can just lay things out on a work table, that way, everything is laid out, you know where everything is, you can keep the hardware together in separate piles or separate bags and label them so you know where everything goes.

When you put things back together to make things a little easier, I'm going to take all the C's out of this bracket here because we have them all over the engine bay and they just help get this thing out of the way. Because I know it will be a pain once we try to remove the cylinder head. It's always good to just take some photos of how the vacuum hoses and wiring are arranged here so that way we can put it exactly where it was. um, when we put this all back together, we're going to have to remove all of this wiring harness from our intake manifold, so I'm just going to pull everything out and then we'll throw it to the side so all of these injector wiring plugs I need to disconnect and that's okay, so now that we have all the little things disconnected from our intake manifold, we're going to start unbolting it from the cylinder head and they're held in place basically by a group of 9/16's. screws, we have five up here and then we have four underneath, which is a little annoying, but since we have this open space under here, it should be a lot easier to work on than having all the radiators and everything.

So too up here, so let's start to free them up and remove the intake first and then the exhaust manifold will follow after all, okay, with the upper ones removed, I'm going to go to the bottom, this is. In my setup I only have a 9/16 socket on a pivot with some extensions and it's a little hard to get a feel for it. They will basically be between the top bolts, but just below, so I recovered both. the ones that were made, um, those were the hardest ones, um, lining up the back one since I couldn't get my hand back there, I went underneath and I was able to spot that bolt, uh, fish, my arm up there put this on and then went up again. on top and I ratcheted it off so we just have these two front ones underneath, left to do here and these bolts are actually coming out pretty good since a few years ago I removed them because I replaced the exhaust manifolds there.

Come on, this is the last bolt, so this entry is going to start to come out, so I'm going to hold it there while I take this bolt out. Then we can remove it from the vehicle. I taped my fuel rail so it can't leak, but if you don't, keep in mind that there is still fuel in here, so it could leak as you take it out. Okay, I'm going to finish removing the center bolts and then we'll have two nuts on each end of the exhaust manifold that just hold the exhaust manifold on, we'll remove those next and move the exhaust manifold to the side, we don't have to disconnect it from the pipe front since we're not taking it completely off the vehicle we just need it to come away from the head there we go and that's all we need just to make it a little bit like this we can remove our old gasket right here okay with our entry and exhaust. now it's time to tackle the head, first we need to remove the valve cover, we have a bunch of 10mm bolts around, some of them are bolts, some are not, so i took some pictures so i know which one goes where when i come back to put this in, otherwise you can take a piece of cardboard and as you take out each bolt you can place them in the pattern that it is in, that way you put it back together exactly the same way it was. but I just took some pictures so let's close them up real quick and I replaced this valve cover gasket earlier but if you have the original gasket here it will probably be another piece you'll want to add. to your list, um, but I have a Fel Pro here, so I should be able to reuse it.

These guys are actually 7/16 10 mil and these last ones you might need to get creative with a twist to get them out because they're a little tight against the firewall, now we should be able to get this out of here, just with this back, let's go and do it. withdrawal. I'll probably just replace this gasket, it's pretty cheap, but I installed the grommets incorrectly in the end.time and they're kind of chewed up, so when you put this back together, which I'll show you later, they got some aluminum spacers that go between the grommets. For some reason, I put them back on, so they're all kind of too tight and torn, so uhWe're going to have to put them back on with our new grommets and the gasket right here, so before we start unscrewing the head, there's a couple more things we have to remove, we have to remove the spark plug wires that go to the spark plugs. and uh to make it easier I'm just going to label them using flanges one flange for cylinder one 1 2 3 4 5 6 and do it all in the future another thing is we have to remove our push rods so we have to remove our rocker assembly into this and then take out our pushrods.

Now our rockers need to make sure they are on the exact same cylinder when we put them back in, so you want to get them in the orientation. that, um, you take it off so you can put it on properly, um, since I'm kind of limited on space, um, I decided I'm just going to unscrew this, take out the pushrods, and then screw it back into the cylinder. head, so these are at/2 here, so we'll lift them up, since we have new pushrods, it doesn't matter, we can throw them out, so I'll put them back in there and we'll just thread them.

It doesn't have to be tight at this point, it just needs to hang in its correct location, so we'll tighten it up a little bit and I'll do it with everyone, so I have our zipper. ties on our spark plug so 1 2 3 four and then I ran out of a white one so I put a black rod in for five and then it's empty in six so let's get them out of here and then set them aside. We're going to have to remove our distributor, so we'll get to that once we get the head off and all that will give us a little more room, but right now we're just taking these guys out.

Okay, so we're removing the head bolts that hold the rest of the head on. We want to remove it in a specific pattern, somewhat opposite of how you would tighten it, so start from the outside and work your way up. Our approach to this just helps, that way we don't put extra stress on any specific head bolt and also so we don't warp the head, but one last thing we need to do is get a nut. that's on top of the right rear cylinder bolt, um, and that's just holding what used to be our ground strap, which is actually broken, the other half goes to the firewall, so it's 1116, so I'm going to take that off. quick and then we can Continue removing our head bolts, take off that strap, now we'll start removing these head bolts.

They're going to be 1/2 in 12 points, so I have to use a special socket on that guy back here. We'll have to use a breaker bar on these as it's a little difficult to impact now this last bolt here, this one will have to come loose when the cylinder head is removed as we won't be able to remove it. This is due to the firewall as you can see so we may need to prop it up with a piece of hose or something so it doesn't get caught while we try to remove the cylinder head and there is one last thing we need to do.

I have to, um, I forgot that we have two bolts that go to the cylinder head of our AC pump, so let's undo them. 9/16. Now comes the fun part, you lift the cylinder head up here, so break the seal, I'm just going to put a zip tie around that bolt so we don't have to hold it the whole time we go, it's stuck in that wiring harness. I'm going to put this on the workbench, we have our old head. gasket remove that okay, so now that we removed the cylinder head, we need to remove our distributor.

The reason we have to do that is because our distributor is driven by our camshaft, so its gears mesh together, so that has to come out so we can slide off the old camshaft and put the again, but before we do that, we want to make sure we're at top dead center and this will help us do that. our timing is correct, especially when we put our distributor back in place, so setting top dead center should be pretty easy since we can see the cylinder right here, it's basically our number one cylinder that we want to push all the way up. and we want to make sure that inside our distributor we're going to remove the cap and we're going to make sure that the rotor is pointing towards the number one spark plug wire and that way we'll know that we're at top dead center if it's uh, otherwise, that means we're at 180°, we have to turn the motor in the rotation to be able to have that alignment, so we're going to remove this cap right here, but first I'm going to locate number one. spark plug wire and that's this guy right here, so if you look at it from the passenger side of the engine, it's going to be towards the 5:00 position, so I'm going to remove this cap quickly, so I'm going to gently pull this out of its place and looking at our rotor, it looks like it's a little bit off, so let's start the engine.

I have a 3/4 inch socket on our harmonic balancer so we can turn it clockwise like this and as you can see our rotor should be pointing down here, right now it's pointing at 12:00 , if you're looking from this side, it should be pointing towards 5, so we're going to keep rotating it. that's at the 5:00 position and our cylinder is on its way up and then right where it's practically flush with the top of the sh block, here it's going to start going down, but right there, right where it stops, that's our point. dead top. In the center we have the number one pointing to the 5:00 position where it would point towards the number one spark plug wire on the distributor cap, so we are at top dead center, we are going to maintain this rotation and we are going to memorize. um, because that's how everything is going to work again, so the next thing we're going to do is the Rover dealer.

It looks like we have some sort of clevis plate holding it down, it looks like a half inch or 13 millimeter nut or bolt. holding that on we also have our electrical connector right here this is our cam position sensor so we just need to undo that as well so we have our bolt and then we have our clevis piece that holds our distributor and we should be able to slide that in there we go , you can see here on our distributor, this flat end, here, this is what actually connects to our oil pump and then here, where we have these gears, right here, that's what actually connects to our camshaft and what drives. our distributor, so to finish the disassembly on the top end of the engine, we're going to go ahead and take out our lifters right now, so I just have a magnet here, we're going to feed them over to where our thrust is.

The rods were and right at the bottom, that's where our risers are, so let's lift them up. Sometimes you don't have a good enough magnet, it can be a little tricky, let's see if I can put a pick in there too. The guy was stuck in there, he could be a little stubborn at times, but he was able to get it a little snug with the magnet and then just put some pliers on it, but just taking a quick look at this, it doesn't look terrible, which is "nice." , there is a slight Dage inward, but other than that, it's not terrible at this, so we'll inspect them all, just because I'm curious, but yeah, we'll take them all out and it also looks like "We're stuck there because we have a carbon layer built up at the bottom, so it's trying to get through those four in the cylinder block and it's getting caught on this kind of ridge of dirt, so we just have to fight. that there's another one, so I pulled out three lifters and the next couple that I was testing in the line are so stuck in there that they get to a point where they just stop because they get caught in all that debris and everything. like that, so I'm actually going to apply a little bit of Cy um on the rest of these so that way c has time to work and hopefully dissolve a little bit of that carbon buildup that's at the end of those. lifters for uh that stops it from going into the hole so we're just going to throw this out there so while we wait for those old lifters to get soaked now is a good time to point out that we want to grab our new lifters and actually the We're going to pre-soak it in a little bit of new oil so that way they fill up on the inside and have oil around them, so basically I'm going to put it in this container here and fill it with oil. um and let it sit overnight, so I'm just going to drop them all in, then I got some new 10 watt Rella, we're going to go and fill this up, come on, let's let it sit, a lot of air bubbles and things are coming out.

Give it a little shake to make sure all the air bubbles come out, but we'll let it sit overnight and then it'll be ready to install on the new camshaft, so I managed to get all the lifters. and basically just a little technique that I did was I came here with a need from those players and I just slowly worked back and forth and picking it up and finally I managed to get over that ridge that you can see. That Ridge is pretty strong on some of these to be able to get out and then it separated a little bit on one side to be able to get through that hole so I got them out of there using that which Cy definitely helped to soak them a little bit and free them up um something that It's a little surprising, well, not too surprising.

I knew I had some bad lifters here as this engine ran pretty hard, it wasn't anything lower, but I knew it was a valve trainer. lifter tick and uh what I noticed on all of these lifters is that they are all collapsed and the way you can tell that is you can take a push rod and push down you should make it spring back towards you but all of these They're completely shot now, for example. We've got a new one right here, so we're going to push it down and you can see it's got a spring right there and we've got that seat that goes up to that little wire over there that's our little keeper. and on all the old ones, that lid is all the way down, there's a big gap between that uh keeper, so all of these are collapsed, so this is something we definitely had to do, anyway, whether we're doing a chamber or not , because these lifters get shot and probably have been shot for a long time, but I'm still surprised that the surface here was mounted on the camshaft actually doesn't look terrible at all, no significant wear or anything like that .

Here it's okay, so we got everything we need out of the top of the engine to get this far, so now we're going to work on the front over here. We need to remove this timing cover so we can get our timing chains and then eventually we can get our camshaft out as well um first things first um we still have the engine at top dead center um I was moving it around a little bit but memorizing the position in which was before I turned the engine over a little bit, it helped raise those lifters a little bit so I could grab them with the needle from those suppliers, but I got it back to where it was before with top dead center, so now we can go ahead and remove our harmonic balancer this is a 3/4 inch bolt right here, so I'm going to get my impact on that and then we can get our polar harmonic balancer and get it out right, so I've got my polar harmonic balancer on my right harmonic balancer.

Here what threads in here are 5/16 so it won't damage it and then at the end here you have a 3/4 inch drive now unfortunately this access hole that's on this front bottom core bracket um it's too low to fit in an impact to get a direct drive on this so I'm going to have to weave a wrench here to do it and when you do it manually like this and don't use an impact the motor will spin on you so I probably should have done this first before I wrecked the The rest of the engine because what you can do with the cylinder head on is put a piece of string in one of the spark plug holes and it will prevent the piston from going up all the way and it will cushion it and lock it up.

Raise the engine that way so it doesn't spin. I'm going to try it and see if I can get a lever in here. Just to keep this from spinning. It's not ideal, but it's the only thing I can do. do it right now so this has been off before so hopefully it's not too painful so I'm going to start rotating this and see what happens and I can already see it's starting to let go it's already pulling that thing out and it doesn't require a lot of effort so I'm not really damaging the extractor by using it just to hold it in place, it's not a lot of force, maybe 20 to 30 feet PBS or so.

I'm going to keep working on this and we'll take it off, there we go, we just need to weave this out of here, that's our harmonic balancer, so with that harmonic balancer off, there's another thing we have. forremove it so we can get to that timing cover, this alternator bracket covers it up a little bit, so we're going to have to remove this alternator with the bracket, so it looks like we have some 9/16 head nuts, right? here and some 15mm bolts over here just a mix of uh SAE and Metric, that's what they did on these Jeeps, so let's get those guys out.

I already went ahead and disconnected the electrical system on the back of this. I just got that main power cable and then they also have that connector and they slide off that bracket and you don't actually need to remove this alternator completely. I'm just going to put this bolt back on top just to hold it down. in place since it was primarily that bracket that was covering it and we'll leave it there now. We have access to all the bolts on our timing cover so now we can start unbolting the timing cover. We have a wide variety of hardware used to bolt this into place.

We have bolts that were used for the alternator bracket. some small 716 bolts, we have some larger 916 bolts and all that, but basically around the perimeter of the timing cover we're going to start removing things now as a good time to take a picture so you know where all the hardware is. It is and it may not look like it from the view you have, but the timing cover clears the water pump, so we should be able to slide it off as well. I noticed on mine, which is kind of interesting. I have two empty bolt holes. where some bolts are supposed to go through one right here below where the water pump is and then another one is even further down, but the bolt is just sitting in that little crack and it looks like it's been there for a long time so I'm I'm curious if maybe someone, when they did the water pump or replaced it 100,000 miles ago, accidentally took it out and never put it back in, so it's interesting how we'll have to get another one for that, so I'm going. to start taking them out and we also have some bolts coming up from the oil pan that actually thread into the bottom of the timing cover.

I think there's four to six of them that are on the bottom side here, they should be 7/ 16 and A2 are fine, so I took out all the bolts except this one guy here that's kind of tied to the bracket on the back and I can't get it all the way off without it hitting this pulley here, so I think I can get the timing cover off with the bolt, so I'm going to gently pull it off the engine, break that seal and we'll try to get it out of here, so what I'm doing doing here is I'm pulling away from the oil pan gasket and lifting it up a little bit and trying to slide the bottom part out first so we can go around this top end over here now I can remove that bolt, there we go, so now it comes all the way. the fun part.

When we put this camshaft on, we have our timing chain right here and as you can see, this engine is very dirty inside even though it's been changed every 3,000 miles, but it just has a ton of miles on it. so I'm going to have to do a lot of cleaning on my part so let's get started we're going to remove this old set of timing chains take some pictures so you remember how to put them on. First, we put this back together, we have this oil deflector that is on the shaft, we are going to remove it next, we have a 5/8 bolt on our camshaft, we are going to take it out, take it off the sprockets and the chains, um.

All together and then we're going to put our sprocket back on the camshaft. We'll use it as a handle to remove our camshaft before putting that sprocket back on. It seems we have some kind of cam. Chea lock plate to prevent the camshaft from moving it looks like there are two t40 uh bolts holding this on so let's close them now we should be able to get this out as you can see our camshaft just fell off so which and I'm not actually going to put the sprocket on because it's going to hit this front crossmember, so we're going to take this out, but when we install the new one we're probably going to put that sprocket on as a kind of help guide. put it in place, so I want to be very careful.

I'm taking this out, we don't want to scratch any of the camshaft bearings and lift the end up, if you can, take this out and we're good to go. so before we turn things over and start installing them, now is a good time to clean everything up and that's what I'm going to do here, this engine is very dirty, the timing cover, even on the outside, probably have an inch of mud on the outside. so I'm going to scrub everything, clean everything, clean all the gasket surfaces on this timing cover and even on this head gasket here because I don't want to install the new camshaft with lifters and then do the head gasket. surface because I don't want any dirt to get on our new parts, so I want to keep this as clean as possible and we're going to try to not get any debris into our oil pan here, if so, it's not the end of the world.

I'm planning on changing this after the camera breaks to help remove all that gunk and sink to the bottom of the Pan um and then we can change everything and one thing. To take into account this distribution cover, since it seals with the oil pan. We've got this oil pan gasket right here, so we're going to have to cut it out and take a look at its new set of gaskets. We have a new piece. that's going to go in here, there's going to be some RTV that we're going to have to do to fill the corners and stuff and then we also have a new gasket that's going to go on this top surface as well, so I'm going to go clean everything up and then we'll come back to install our new camshaft.

Okay, time to take a look at our new camshaft. This is here, right out of the box, and simply following the instructions. instructions that comcam gives you, the first thing we're going to do is put some mineral spirits on it and clean off the soot, shipping oil residue and all that, then after we get it nice and clean, we're going to put it on. a little bit of assembly lubricant, which is this right here and then basically we're going to coat everything nice and generously and then we're pretty much ready to install this on the engine so I just bought some mineral spirits and a microfiber towel. and then I'm going to go and clean everything, okay, I cleaned our entire camshaft.

I also have our timing set up here as well, this is our new timing assembly, with two new sprockets and we have a new chain and then also a chain guide that goes inside that timing cover so they have the standby ready to go. work because we're going to install it right after we have the camshaft on a couple of other things to keep in mind when you inspect your camshaft to see if The first time you want to make sure the numbers etched on the camshaft match up with the ones in the box, that way you will know for sure that you have the correct camshaft that you are installing in your vehicle, so now I'm going to grab some Cam Loop and we're going to go and cover everything that's supposed to which is very sticky so that's the point it's supposed to stick and not drip right away and some of you are probably wondering if I'm replacing the cam bearings that are inside the engine block and the answer to that is No.

You can do a quick inspection of your old camshaft and see if there's anything major going on there. I mean, if you have an important score or something that might be something you want to analyze; however in most cases you will be fine just using the original bearings that are there and that is what I am doing on my Jeep even though it has many miles on it they still look good so the camshaft is ready to go. be installed on the engine side. I cleaned the surface of the timing cover gasket on the engine block, so we're going to put this on the engine and once we get halfway or maybe 3/4 um, it's going to be a little bit difficult to be able to lift it up so that these rolling surfaces fit into the bearings because it has four sections to go through, so that's where we're going to stay. this on and this is going to be a handle to help hold it up as we get it in there, I know the front crossbar is a little bit in the way so let's see how this is going to work. putting it in there, make sure you're going the right way, obviously, we're going to be very gentle and if something gets stuck, we're not going to force it, we're just going to take our time with this, so I'm going to stop right there and then I'm going to grab our sprocket, we're going to use this to lift the last part into place, there we go and we can take that sprocket out for now and push it in. all the way, come on, our new cam is in, now it should be all downhill, from now on we're going to reinstall everything else, so next we can reinstall our camshaft torque plate, which is this guy right here .

I went and just cleaned it up. up and then also, uh, I'm just putting an assembly loop on all the pieces coming back to this, so I'm going to put this guy here and then we have our two Torx bolts and we're going to tighten these guys down. I think it requires PBS of 18 uh feet, so to synchronize, I set the new timing there and the way I'm solving this just to keep where the motor rotation was before I did it. something a little different my way, um, but where this was placed before is at the top dead center, the sprocket for the crankshaft, we had the key around 12:00 and when we took the old camshaft out, um, they had the key. way like looking towards the 8:00 um position, but to set the time we have to make sure that these timing marks are set, so I went ahead and did a full rotation on the crankshaft and that brought the timing mark right here and then I adjusted and registered our camshaft to where our timing mark is going to be right here, so every two rotations of the crankshaft these timing marks should line up perfectly, so I set it up right now, your timing marks on each one of the sprockets should be in line here and it should be on an imaginary axis from the center of the camshaft to the center of the crankshaft so they're all lined up there.

I'm going to go ahead and finish screwing this in and then continue back up one rotation to where the engine was at top dead center before, that way I can put the distributor exactly where it was before, so I'm not 180 out or anything like that, but the way I did it is I got this sprocket. for the crankshaft halfway, that way I can easily take it out and then just turn the crank and then put it back on. It may take me a few times to get it right, but I got it right right now, so here we go.

You are going to finish installing this, you will want to push both sprockets in at the same time, for some reason the new sprocket that is on my crankshaft is much tighter. I took out the key to make sure it was nothing. It's strange, but I think it's a tight fit. If I hit it lightly, I'll take it like a piece of wood or something. I'll just keep working side to side and then it'll come in okay, so once. We've got the timing chain back in there, we're going to take the camshaft bolt and screw it back into place.

Now there's really no good way to tighten this down since it's going to spin the engine, so I'm just going to give it a little more on impact, being careful not to break this or anything, now I'm going to take a little more assembly lube and I'm just going to run it all over the chain here so that way this doesn't dry start, then I'm going to turn the engine back to where it was before so that way I can put my distributor in correctly the way I took it out and, as it rotates, there is a dry spot in the chain.

I can take a little bit more assembly lube and lube it up good, so I've got this in the place that I want and I'm going to take this P crank out, then I cleaned my entire Slinger of oil and I'm just going to put a little bit of assembly lube on that too and paste it back there. Now we are all ready to put on our timing cover. I'm going to go clean the timing cover gasket surface. and we're also going to replace that front main seal there, so here we are with our timing cover, this thing cleaned up pretty good to where it was before there's a solid 4 inches of mud here that I rubbed off.

I scrubbed it with some plain green and a plastic brush on a drill. I rubbed it for a full 20 minutes so I got as much as I could and it should be a lot better than it was before there was a lot of mud. It was also inside. and I took most of it out, but the rest will have to stay there, that's pretty cooked in there, but look inside, here you can see some scratches that were right in this area, they look like our old timing chain. Since it had all that slack, it was just rubbing here, so it's a good thing we replaced it right now.

We need to drill out our old front main seal which is right here, so if you look on thelater, they got this little notch. there so we can put a punch in there and just pop that guy out, so I pulled out that old seal and went to clean the inside surface. I'm just going to lubricate it again with some assembly lube. To help get the new seal into place, our new seal we're going to have the spring-loaded side facing inward into the motor, so we're going to set it up like this, I've got my seal driver here and we're going to touch this. instead make sure we go straight once we get to the bottom it's nice and flush we're all set up nicely so I cleaned everything up with some brake cleaning on both the gasket surface and the motor, the last thing we had to install. on our timing cover, this is our chain guide, which sits in the slot right here and then I laid out our gaskets, this is a two piece gasket, so we have one end that goes in the bulk, another that goes On this top surface here, which is pretty much the bottom, what I'm going to do is RTV on both sides because this is a little bit of a weird alignment and especially in those corners where it's between the oil pan block and this um that had. a lip on the oil pan gasket and, uh, that aftermarket oil pan gasket, since I did it recently over the summer.

It's an aftermarket Fel Pro and it's steel line so I had to cut it off and there's a little bit of metal edge there so we're going to have to make sure we put some RTV in that corner. I'll show you when we get to the Jeep, so that way we don't have any leaks, but we're going to cover the side that goes to the engine block first and we glue our gasket there, then we cover the side of the timing cover and then we glue this there , so I got some black RTV which is meant to resist oil, so we're just going to put some good film on the surface of this gasket and lastly, we can put some good RT TV film on the timing cover gasket surface, so we have all the gaskets glued here and this bottom gasket, I can tell it's going to be a pain. rear, since it wants to keep showing up, I put zip ties through the holes and around the outside of the box, it's a little trick I did when I made the oil pan and then once I have this here I can cut them off and pull them off . come out that way, I know it's not going to be pushed around once I put this timing cover on one last thing I'm going to do before I put this on.

I'm going to put a thick bead of RTV in these corners. because I have a feeling that's where it's going to possibly leak if it does, so I'm going to have to interlock that bolt and put this at that weird angle and then also make sure these guys don't get pushed in. Well ok so I put it in there it's a bit stressful now I'm starting to screw in some bolts and then I'll cut the flanges on the bottom which helps make sure the gasket doesn't poke out the side or go in for the other. You can take a pick and if it looks like it's pushing in, you can weave a pick and pull the gasket back where it mates with the oil pan. together either way I'm going to take another bead of silicone and just on the outside here I'm going to put a little bead like a line just to make sure we don't have any leaks in there, but right now I'm just We're going to thread all of our bolts in and then we're going to tighten everything into a criss-cross pattern, that was a pain, probably the hardest part of the job, honestly, just trying to line everything up, especially with that joint, but I got everything tight now I'm going to put in our new harmonic balancer, I'm going to put a little lube on the new roof surface, so that way it doesn't dry out and then the same on the inside so it slides over that crankshaft pretty easily now for some reason I don't have a harmonic balancer installation tool with my kit, so I'm going to have to use the bolt and be very careful not to damage any threads or anything like that, so I'm going to put this here in the top slot, so on my harmonic balancer kit, for some reason I didn't have an installation piece so I made my own.

I have some bolts here. I got them from work these are just 1/inch x 20 threads here I have them in a few different sizes and I'm basically making my own installation tools so I got a long enough bolt that has enough engagement in the crankshaft and then I also have a nut here on the end and ideally you'd like to put a bearing or something right here, that's what the installation tool is, but I just have some washers in there with a little bit of grease between them to help, so there's no friction and then now we're just going to hold the end of this bolt over here and then we're just going to tighten this nut and then you're going to start to see this suction on that crankshaft, so I'm going to go all the way with this until it bottoms out, so we're going to take out this installation tool and then we're going to replace it with our bolt, so it goes all the way down, we're just going to take out the makeshift extractor right here and we're going to take our original screw washer and screw this back on.

I'm just going to use a gasket right now to tighten this, but to tighten it we'll have to do it later when we can stop the motor from rotating because right now. If we try to tighten it, it will continue to spin. I would also like to mention that now is a good time to replace the engine mounts now that everything is out of here and it was actually very simple. I went ahead and already replaced them on both. On the sides I just had some extra engine mounts that I had in storage for many years and finally used them here.

They're nothing special, probably just cheap ones from Rock Auto. They're not bad at all for only about six dollars or so. but I'm glad I did because this one here on the driver's side has a big crack there. I didn't really see it from above because of this stand that was in the way, but once I took it out. It clearly shows that guy got shot, the other side wasn't too bad, a little crack started to form here, but I replaced both sides, just jacked up the

jeep

engine with a piece of plywood on top of a jack and just jacked it up.

I raised. up next to the oil pan, um, being careful not to go too far or anything like that, so as not to damage anything, and I switched to those guys, so now we have this alternator bracket, I'm going to put it back in there, I just have I took this bolt out again, so now to install our distributor, I got a reference image of where it was aligned before. Make sure the engine is once again at top dead center as we have that new harmonic balancer there, um, we can. I actually see that timing mark and I line it up with the zero there so I know my top dead center when this was pulled out before you noticed it turned counterclockwise just by the way the gears are cut like this Let's anticipate that rotation a little bit and try to get this back to where it was placed before.

Be very careful. I have some assembly. About this shaft, here I clean it up, um, the instructions for the camshaft. installation, they recommend just taking a wire brush lightly to this gear, um, just to remove any carbon deposits and stuff, so it bottomed out, our oil pump shouldn't have been spinning at all, so it should match up fine. that. I'm going to go through our line of photos and it looks like it's exactly where it was before, so it's perfect and it's bottomed out, so the next thing we're going to do is just put that little guard there, that little fork. and then we can bolt it on, then we can plug our cam position sensor back in, then I'll put the distributor cap back on, it's a good time to change the rotor and the cap and all that, um, I didn't do it.

This was a long time ago, but there were still some things here. I'll have to do it another time because I also have to replace my coil. There is also a large crack above it. I just realized I just went and cleaned it up with some scotchbrite and all the contacts so now we can put this guy back in place so now it's time to focus up here again we have our new lifters, we have a descent and we also put our head in um, I'm. I'm going to go ahead and clean all the gasket surfaces.

I got this one almost as clean as the one I had. I just took a razor blade, scraped it off and then used a little scotchbrite on some of the rough stuff. I have a plastic, uh. wheel on a drill that I used that had carbon buildup and all that, so this is pretty clean, the only thing I'm going to do since now we can spin the motor freely without having to worry. about the weather or anything, I'm going to go clean the rest of these pistons. I've got number one and six, all clean since they're at the top, but we can do 2 3 four five and clean up all this carbon here.

Also, I'm going to do that and then I'm going to clean all the gasket surfaces on the cylinder head and also on the other side of the cylinder head and we also have the intake and exhaust gasket surfaces and then also the cylinder head gasket. valve at the top. of the head, um, which is a little bit easier to clean up when it's already on the bench, so I'm going to do that and then we'll come back to throw the lifters and then we'll throw overhead, okay, that's right. riser installation time so I got my bucket of risers that have been cooling in some oil for more than a few days so they should be ready to install.

I have my magnet here that I'm going to use to install it. I cleaned everything. um from any residue so now we're going to very carefully glue them onto the bar and there's one that we're just going to work down and fix them all up so that you clean up the head gasket surfaces one last time with a little bit of brake. . Wipe clean so they are all ready to go now. I'm just getting our head gasket, we're going to put it in there and then we're going to pat it on the head so that with the head gasket they're stamped on the top right there, so you know which way. this goes, this is going to lock onto two of the pins on the front and back of the block, make sure you have that bolt there, I've got a new bolt there held on with the flange, here we go, that fell out. instead, make sure everything is flat.

Now we have a new set of head bolts. We're going to start feeding these guys in the correct orientation that they had before, so all the big ones on the driver's side and all the small ones on the passenger side. side and I'm not using oil on these bolts. The bolt manufacturer actually recommends that you don't put anything in there because if you get oil in the hole where it's supposed to go, you can hydrolock it. small area and actually potentially ruining your block by breaking it, so I'm just going to hand tighten all of this just to free up the slack and then we're going to tighten them properly, um, in a couple of rotations.

Believe me on this front right, right here. I'm going to put some Teflon tape on because this one actually goes into a water jacket and I don't want any leaks, so I'm going to put some thread sealant on it. This guy is fine, so now it's time to tighten these head bolts. We will do it in three different waves. We'll start with 22 foot-pounds, then we'll raise our weight to 45, and then we'll raise it to 110, except. For this guy here that we put caulk on, he only has 100 feet of PB, so I'm going to start with 22, we'll start in the middle and start working our way out, like that.

We don't get any weird warping or anything like that when we tighten this down, we just work our way around, like it's a circle, starting from the middle and working our way out nicely so that the last bolt that's on the driver's side. Around here for some reason I can't get my torque wrench in there because the firewall is in the way and even with my smaller torque wrench I can't get it in there. I tried removing this little zip tie with a firewall, but I still can't get it in, so I'll have to tighten it by hand.

I just have to guess as best I can with a breaker bar to be able to do that last bit, but now we have it all. 22 let's go up and go to 45 feet - PBS and lastly we'll go up to 110 feet - PBS then this one here only gets 100 so we'll go down 10 okay so we have our new ground strap I I got it from Jeep cables.com. We're going to put it back in here with our 1116 nut, so now we're going to install our new push rods that we have here and when we put them in, I'm just going to put a little bit of mounting lubricant on each end of these and then we'll slide it under of the rocker arm and then we can tighten our rocker arm and the torque spec on these volts will be 19 foot-pounds so that You will feel it hit the top of the lifter.

You want to make sure it's nice and sturdy in there, simple as that. I'm going to repeat that five more times to get the rest of the pushrods to fit together nicely, so I have our joint surfacesthey're clean for a valve cover gasket, so we're going to put that in and we've got alignment holes on each end that are going to correspond with the head bolts that we put in here and then we're going to take our valve cover. I went and installed the new grommets and then pushed our aluminum spacers into those new grommets so this is ready to go here and then we can start getting the bolts into the layout pattern that was before, so I'll just use the picture.

I took it before as a reference and then we're going to tighten all these guys, so we tighten these bolts, we're just going to tighten them, they're basically going to bottom out, um, because you're going to feel it set. Solid because that's the aluminum spacer, uh, touching the top of the head block, but we're going to slowly start to tighten them down like we did with the head gasket. We start in the middle and work outward, so I'm. We're just going to go little by little and then we'll go over it a couple of times because you'll notice that it's going to start to loosen a little bit on the other ones that you worked on initially, so we're going to go through this and tighten them all up nice, again, we clean all the gasket surfaces for lastly our intake and exhaust manifold, so we're going to put on our new gasket and then put on the exhaust manifold and then we can pull. on our intake so this guy is just going to check the bolts there's one on the back of the engine and one on the front and then the front one that had the whole bolt just came off so okay we can just glue it on . there, but I'm going to put our exhaust manifold against the head, then I'm just going to tighten these guys, but I'm not going to tighten them all the way yet, so when you line this up you want to make sure it goes into the pin. that are on the cylinder block, you don't want to put this in crooked, so we'll start threading in some bolts and tighten this up.

No, okay guys, so we put everything back together for the intake manifold and that's nice. We've already concluded where we start this video, obviously I still have a lot of work to do. I'm still doing it on the front end so you guys want to keep an eye on that while I rebuild the rest of this front end of this Jeep Cherokee and then from there we can power on. the engine and break this cam, but overall we just put an upgraded camshaft in this Jeep 4.0. I'm really excited to fire this up, so I hope you guys can follow along if you're doing this at home, um or in general, it's just not an overly complicated engine, the inline six.

Pretty simple, it takes a lot of time to remove all the pieces and make sure they're clean when you put things back together, that's the most important thing, especially when you're setting up a new campsite. We want this to be as clean as possible so I don't have any crashes during Breakin, but if you have any questions or comments be sure to post them below and I'll be happy to answer them, as always I'll post links to the parts I use in this video . below including the communication cameras I got from Summit Racing so if you liked this video and found it helpful be sure to like and subscribe to outg's YouTube channel to help keep these videos coming if you would like to help to support the channel.

I got an Etsy link below where you can get some Jeeping decals. Stay tuned for the next video as we put the rest of this Jeep Cherokee together in this front end and fire this up so I want to thank you for watching and us. We'll see you in the next video oh