I was scared to delid my CPU, but then...

Okay, something I've been waiting for a while, not so much, a few weeks, but you guys, if you're as impatient and adding as I am, a few weeks might as well be an eternity, uh, this, if you remember, is my setup. proof. Here for the ryzen 9 7950x AMD am5 processor and I said that I will use this processor in the version that I will replace at home because you know I never took the 12th generation system home because I knew this was coming. and this is so much better than the 12900k it's not even funny yeah the top 10 sisters there put a bag over his head because he's still in isolation it's a great system but I mean he might as well go for the best now, right?

Anyway, if you remember, I already used Dare Bauer, their Bauer, their lapping tool to lap the CPU and took about two millimeters off the IHS and you said this is going to start to look really like a very daring Bauer, their sponsored video. I'm German, I can say okay, this is the lapping tool and I've already used it to remove about two millimeters from the IHS. This tool will allow up to three millimeters to come out, but I didn't go that far. I already made a whole video on that, if you haven't seen it, be sure to watch it, it'll pop up here or something.

I was using the new cryonaut extreme thermal paste, which is pretty crazy, but it came. He came out with a new tool and said: I'm the first to have it. I'm the first to try it and he even said this about it: You can't use the slider incorrectly, so that's pretty much idiot proof. Roman I'll be the proof of that, tired of looking at the ugly Nvidia 40 series adapter. I think the cable mod has you covered with its direct PSU replacement sleeve. High power 12 volt cables made of individually sleeved 16 gauge wire supporting up to 600 watts delivered.

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If you haven't seen it because it shows some of the trials and tribulations of modifying the CPU with the am5 socket being compatible with am4 in quotes because of the z axis. height for mounting options I did quite a bit of testing to find where I could mount it correctly, but since we now have a different room temperature and we have a different mount, I have to test it again to get our baseline working see if the dear Bauer cleaning tool, I still call it Dare Bauer, it's technically Grizzly Thermal, that's the company that founded and creates all this stuff.

I just like to call it Dare Bower, awesome tools, but we still need to Go ahead and make an effort here. I need to see what our thermals look like if you remember the spoiler, we ended up having about a 10°C drop. Between there we go with the original IHS stuff which was like 95°C. Remember we were hitting. 95c no matter what it's called, that's normal and we thought no, it doesn't need to be the new norm and we kind of tested it using their Bowers tools. I need to go into the BIOS and I need to set the fans to a static speed because we can't have the fans increase and change any kind of variable there, like we need a constant fan speed that allows us to measure the differences ab because if the fans increase in a curve, it can skew the results, so we need a constant fan speed there, so I'm not going to go full speed.

I'm going to try to keep this somewhat reasonable about where our duty cycle is going to be, so I'm going to do it, let's do it. 70. I also have the Celsius 360 here, which is a basic Acetec AIO and the fans blow through the motherboard because we need cooling for the vrms and such. This is a very high powered CPU, so I just want to point out that yes. I have cooling on the motherboard and in the RAM, although the RAM won't really be touched in this particular test, if you want to know why I'm a thermal Grizzly fan, check this out one of the things that sucks about AMD IHS are those weird indentations on it and believe it or not it's not completely sealed so things can get in there and get into the substrate which is really weird.

I'll show it when I delete it, but it showed up. Leaving this basically, this is the CPU protection, they are designed to fill that space around the CPU, so here I'm going to grab a CPU to show you real quick, this is really cool, it's a Ryzen 5, but they're all the same size. I'll be returning to some cheaper versions here very soon. These are the gaps I'm talking about like these cutouts so when you put thermal paste here it just oozes out there once you put the cooler in there but this is actually adhesive on one side and look at this so it's on the upside down right now because it's designed to get sticky and down, look at that when it's there and on the plug and stuff and it's pushed in there well. it will fill those spaces and you can see instructions here on how to install it, so you put the CPU in, you put it in and

then

you close it and

then

the arm will just squish it down, which is a pretty cool basic little thing, shh.

I don't know why AMD decided to have all these cuts. I guess it's because of all those smds sitting there on the substrate, but it's still an interesting design, but I thought I'd point out that he sent it. That's over too and I thought it was worth showing you flusic metal. I probably just said a bad word. I thought: look, my German is a necessity. I know how to order food, beer, pretzels and women, my mom, my mom. and my wife is German, she's fine, those are the women I order, so all configurations right now are in stock, so it's up to 5.8 gigahertz single core.

I think 5.3 is where the CPU goes with all the 79 and 50x cores right there so you can see. PPT stock 230 watts 160 amps TDC 225 amps CDC everything is stock I just want to point that out and even with the stock configuration like we showed when it was new um 95c even with an AIO is where it will go but anyway so I need to start the test. I'm curious. It's where it will immediately rise to our idle temperatures, as you can see right now, pretty solid 32c, without moving around too much, there's ADC 82 83 84. 84.4, so yeah, like I said, it was around 10c. fall between the CPU lapping, actually the IHS shaving and then the CPU lapping and then adding the non-extreme crowd, so that's the majority of that, believe it or not, like five, almost six C's those that come from temperature. paste alone, so I highly recommend these things.

I really do. I wish I had more. He sent me some tubes. There aren't many per tube, but I would use this on any GPU. I put water blocks on any CPU. Anything you require. thermal paste I would definitely use this, the kpx or the Kingpin extreme is also very good but it seems to outperform it so it's good here now while this test is running. I'll leave it running and we'll unpack what arrives today. This is the lighting and mounting tool because here's the problem: when you take the cover off the I8, the IHS, just like I showed when we cut it, you start to have mounting problems because the bracket that closes on the CPU like an Intel .

The CPU only has such a large part of the IHS sticking out above it that when you start shaving it, you start hitting the bracket before you hit the CPU, you remove the IHS completely, the CPU is way below the bracket so it doesn't you just need the tool to -Turn it on, it developed a mounting bracket and you'll notice there's actually no retail packaging for any of this because it said I was the first to get this so here it's anodized, it's nice, red and black. pretty foolproof, he said, um, the cpu can only fit in here one way because of the way the smds are underneath, we have those gaps, those gaps, believe it or not, are what make it possible for this type of tool delay works, remember that We are sliding the IHS from side to side, side to side, side to side until the glue basically breaks and then we can remove the cap, but it can only go so far before it reaches smds and you can only go in One Direction before. it hits smds under the IHS, so your Bauer had like seven or eight revisions of this tool to make this possible, in the most recent video he talked about there were bearings here, but they weren't ball bearings, these are ball bearings, I think they look alike. ball bearings but yes I told you I'm proving their idiot proof theory as you tighten it not only will you have the head of the screw rotating against the metal giving you more strength the bearing will allow for that. to rotate without any resistance meaning the only resistance you will feel is the IHS now this is the retaining bracket this replaces the retaining bushing the latch mechanism the mechanism is very similar to how they came up with one for the 13th Intel generation CPU, in fact I have one of those, I remember how the 12th generation CPU had uneven tension on the bracket.

The 13th gen, very similar, already had this created and this is what is kept on the 12th or 13th gen Intel CPU to give even Force, so it's just an adaptive version of this to hold down the AMD CPU, since you're essentially doing the same thing by removing that mechanism there and then you're on your own, you were 100% figuring out how the heck you're going to hold the cooler down and get even tension because each CPU water block blocks the entire issue, each of them has a different mounting mechanism, so that depends on the hardware time, okay, I think we're pretty much even. here and you can see we're still cooling at 87.3, we're still at 5.25, let me go down to 5.1, so we're around 5.2 gigahertz, all cores, um, not bad, the reason we can maintain that level of del clock would actually drop a little bit, not much, but at 95°C it still gave you full performance, because of that temp right there, so 87.5 as soon as you stop the test, watch how fast the temps drop, this He will show you.

This isn't something cooler, it's an IHS design thing and the die itself looks stopped at 55 and 4 51 53, well it's still running 5.4, there we go, so anyway I'll let this cool down for a second under load right here. in idle conditions and then we'll pray it doesn't destroy your CPU 600 700. It's a pretty good stand, you can even see tension there in the center and stuff, but look how I'm talking, everything oozes and squishes everywhere. What that little CPU saver you did would really help with what I hate about this is the fact that you're going to take it out.

Bits of that thermal paste can fall into the socket, which is also an Intel thing. No problem, if that happened you could just spray a big amount of alcohol in there. The alcohol won't hurt anything and will definitely eat away at the thermal paste, but don't try to remove it or anything, you bend a pin. We already finished the am5, it has the same finesse as an Intel system when it comes to its pins and such, so look, all those pins are protected there, so always keep the socket cover on, we need to clean this guy right now.

I go and get some soft bristle toothbrushes first, I'll wipe off the excess with a paper towel. We see all that excess sitting there, so I'm going to continue there and then we'll start brushing our teeth. Brush our teeth. All these little smds and things are going to be very very gentle with them now, you might be wondering why I'm going through all the effort to clean it if I'm just taking it off, well again you'll see we don't have many. of space between the IHS and these transistors or these capacitors that are placed here on the substrate, so I don't want anything to build up between them.

I don't want to say it's a pretty mild thermal paste, but I'm not going to take there's a chance that something will build up there and create stress on them, so just using the brush pulling it out without pushing it down because I don't know if it will you can see on the camera that there is a gap that is not completely sealed. it's just stuck on each of these grains, these points that stick out, that's the only place where it's stuck, it's not sealed like an Intel CPU, so it could be pushing stuff down there and you'll probably find some thermal paste in there when it gets there .

This is off, but I didn't want to crush it, so I take it and make this kind of outward motion so you can see there's a groove there that matches the CPU and I wish maybe I had done that. milled into a triangle to match the corner the ryzen 7000 CPU is placed on the lid of the ryzen 7000 D with DDM diameter the triangular mark on the CPU must be aligned with the corresponding mark on the DDM there is no corresponding mark on the DDM okay, I sent We will send you a small video byemail from this, so I hope you figure it out, but we'll continue because we know that orientation is the little arms point right there.

Phil also said that it's weird that there's a hole in there to fill it, so you can take it out anyway, um, yeah, so we'll put it in, squeeze these guys back on top and then start the decompaction decapitation of the CPU, the manual calls it decapitated CPU, so we thought it was funny because you know. The German translation is a very obscure translation, so even with these tightened, the thickness of this type of berry doesn't call it a bearing or a bushing, but it allows it to keep moving, there's really no turning back now, so with those bearings there, yeah, as soon as it tightens, I need to make sure it's loose enough that it doesn't stop. to go, come on, oh, I feel so bad that it makes creaking sounds, listen, oh, all the sounds that it makes, okay, so we loosen this one up again, let me do this side and we just do this back and forth and a side to side and so it will be. it becomes very obvious when it is released I want to release I'm sorry, it will become very obvious because it won't have any more because at this moment there is still tension I feel like I have to use a little force, not a lot, but a little.

A little bit of force to move the slider, but if you look down, you'll see on the side you'll see the IHS moving, so look at the substrate pieces and look at the IHS, you'll see it move, so we do it a few times. until you are free, that is why orientation is so important. Look at the clearance between the smds and the edge of the IHS right there, obviously Bauer has built the tolerances into this to be extremely precise; otherwise he will remove one of those, that's all. That's why orientation is really important and that's why I need to know if there are any problems with this unit before I start shipping them because that would be a problem if you can place it 90 degrees from the way it's supposed to be . it's literally designed not to do that, so as long as only the IHS comes off, we did fine.

I say it's like Phil has something to do with how much damage this can happen, but yeah, if he's broken, we break him. If it worked, I did, it's like a sports fan works, yeah, oh, we won, they lost it, they lost, no, my team lost, the team lost, look, look at all that thermal paste under there, like I said and as you can see right there. It's not sealed so when it releases like there's barely any glue it's mainly the solder that gets released there so what I need to look into now is how exactly it cleans the solder because I don't know however tempted you may be. to take a rag, don't do that, the fibers can trap a capacitor and just take it off right away, okay, soft bristle brush, isopropyl alcohol no.

Force only the weight of the brush and do this repeatedly until you remove all the thermal paste and such. okay i'm not using any force i'm literally letting the weight of the brush do its job in his video he said the method he uses to clean this well he just scraped it with a blade and that's scary he said. you could put the liquid metal here let it sit for five minutes um the liquid liquid metal will break down um it was indium iridium yeah? The Indian in the can here and then it will clean up.

I'm just worried about taking it somewhere else, maybe I'll try it first. I mean, I've used liquid metal before, so I'm on my second round of liquid metal eating it. um, I want to talk about this. Roman replied to me, this is actually one of the previous ones. -production samples was one of the first production tests where apparently this top piece was not changed like it is now for retail, but the one I have was not changed to prevent the CPU from having the wrong orientation which uh Roman didn't notice until I sent him a video on my phone and he was like "Oh I know what happened so idiot tested it for sure and this idiot found it but it's okay you don't have to worry about it" .

Because it's already fixed in the retail version, this is like a REV 2 of what was marketed or whatever and then in the final revolution you won't be able to spin it like that, so anyway use the liquid metal here. it's working pretty well and then cleaning it up just using a bunch of different swabs to absorb it so let me finish removing it and then we'll install it and do some temperature testing but it's okay. Some time has passed and some discoveries have been made. One of the things I'm not a fan of on this motherboard is that it's not very clear which voltages control what, eh, I was noticing that the thermal paste was squished and the temperatures were high.

It's not very good, so I decided to go ahead and use liquid metal. I applied a lot of liquid metal there, applied it to the cooler side, applied it to the CPU side, took it apart, put it back together and made sure it was all there. I completed and made some discoveries here, so for example I was hitting 82c with liquid metal and I thought that can't be right, so I went here to the performance preset, we have a lot of different things here, PBO and TJ. Maxx 85 PBO TG Max 85 um curb optimizer, we have offsets, these are voltage offsets for the CPU and I decided to do it.

I just want to see now. I'm going to use PBO TJ Maxx 75 before doing any kind of compensation. So what we would expect here is that it does whatever it takes to get to 75c. I think that's how it works there, I just wish I told you what the settings actually were. The only thing that is changing is the free space. for it and the problem is that I feel like this particular motherboard with this particular CPU only bugs it as a precaution, such as for pump voltage stability and then lets the Turbo Clock Optimizer deal with the frequencies so that they do not pass. 95c which is not good for your overall performance because you will lose performance by losing clock speed instead of voltage and safety against Crash, so if that doesn't make sense don't worry it's just the way AMD works and sometimes stinks. but it's the motherboard manufacturers that are responsible for this anyway, so I'm set on the PBO, which is a precision boost overdrive, which is an overclocking logic and logic built into the CPU and a TJ Maxx of 75, so now what I'm going to do is try it. and adjust your voltage to control yourself because what I'm noticing is that my voltages are going much higher than the gobblers when I was trying to figure out why I'm looking at the voltage right now just in idle conditions this is fine but I was Realizing that when I went to charge it went up to 1.43 volts which explained the super high temps even with a direct die enchanted metal uh liquid cooler which shouldn't be the case so anyway yeah I go and do this test right now.

I'm just curious what will happen here, oh yeah, 75c is doing exactly what it should be doing. By the way, note that the GPU didn't make any difference whether it was on igpu or external, it's exactly the same temperature as I thought maybe the igp would be. which makes it go up a little bit look at 1.26 1.25 volts you don't have to pump the voltage so it was 37 738 okay so I'm going to go back to the ASRock BIOS and now enable the voltage offset the thing is I would love to enable offset myself but I don't know what voltage it is, there are tons of voltage options on this particular motherboard and the ones I've changed all talk about the CPU input voltage and the CPU.

Core voltage had no effect. I lowered them to 1.275 and then I went in and wrote the test and I saw 1.35, so I didn't see any change with any of the voltages that were listed as CPU voltage, that's why when I started playing. with this performance optimizer or the performance dropdown with all these preconfigured Optimizer settings that's when things really started to show up well, what I've been struggling with is not my mount, it's not the liquid metal, it's not the die, It is the motherboard. so look here PBO and TJ Maxx 75 so now I'm going to use PBO so look at this if I were to go to 85c it would probably go even higher on the core clock but look at this if I just do PBO TJ Maxx 75c and Curb Optimizer 40.

I wish I could change that curve, by the way, that temperature limit. Honestly, I'd do it more like 77 78, which I think is fine if I know I'm getting more for it, but I want you to do it. See, here are the core clocks with this particular configuration and the voltages, it still shows 5.8 right on the CCX Max, so that's where a single core would be locked at 5.8, which would be cc01 cc05 and cc11 and cc15 or C15, but look at this if I put it's under load right now and I'm going to do 10 minute tests it won't go over 75 seats check it there it's 5.45 and 5.375 39 805.

I changed one thing in the Bios so by default look at the voltage by The way 1.24 volts we're getting 200 megahertz over the advertised total speed by changing one thing now, I think if I hadn't removed this we'd probably be sitting at 5.2 with the AIO at 75. I think that we would have gotten our publicity. speed as expected, we are getting additional frequency due to the fact that we have thermal headroom and that also means voltage headroom due to the fact that it is such that it cools so well that it doesn't need to pump a ton of voltage. 1. 174 watts, so we also reduce a ton of power due to the fact that we don't have to put a ton of voltage into it.

I can feel a decent amount of heat coming out of the AIO right now, that tells me we're getting a really good heat transfer from the eye straight through the liquid metal into the cooler and into the liquid and then out of the red if I come here to enjoy heaven right now 37 38c now I had this on default mode without any of those PBO optimizers and stuff, I was actually hitting 55c with this setup because of the stock stuff, now your mileage is going to vary, every manufacturer of motherboard has a little different way of doing things and I'm a little lost on the in the ASRock BIOS I'm very used to Asus I'm very used to EVGA I'm even used to MSI over ASRock this is exactly the way I would use it on my system now I still wouldn't still prefer not to run liquid metal on a daily basis, but that's another thing for me to find out with the thermal paste what was going on there, but I bet you right now with the thermal paste it would probably be fine, but of course Anyway, one last test before I leave here I'm going to do.

I didn't make a single core. I want to see what our single core boost clock is. It's actually 5.65 interesting, so this is one of those diminishing return types of mods and what do we mean by that. What do you have? to give up what has gone down, well your warranty is clearly gone, there is a high risk of damage to the CPU not only while removing it, but also while handling it after the fact, while cleaning it while We are removing all the Iridium that There's there, there's also the custom mount you have to create to make whatever cooler you're going to use now, this wouldn't be as difficult with, say, an EK water block or something.

That, the difference is that the EK water blocks use their own backplate, it's designed to replace the entire backplate and one of the things that your Bauer used in your video was that it made like a little backplate that was designed to retain the socket pressed in, but then you were able to use an EK backplate on the back, so to do this here I would have to cut my backplate and make it shorter and then put an EK backplate on there and then clamp it on and eliminate that gap. It would actually help lower the springs, screws and all that to the proper height, which would actually be a lot easier than digging through my box to try to find screws and nuts to mount this thing and then hoping to have it.

Still, tensioning would be much easier with a separate water block that has its own retention system that passes through the base plate like EK does, which is probably something I would probably end up using although I now have my own water block. JC sense water. the differences between your Bower is performance or temperatures in mind, now we are at about 5c, so if I run this one more time, it was at 72 72c. I've been running this for a while so I have some load. Here I am at 75 with PBO or the limit there, so I don't know where I would limit.

He just hit 69 on his own. Remember you are running a Corsair water block or so. exactly the same block Jason says the block is just a different brand of mine um and a 360 AIO with an EK pump and the whole thing, and it's a fatter rad, it has more thermal capacity in that loop in a better block design What's here? So the thermal plate on that block is doing a better job of dissipating heat than this particular one and I think this loop is starting to go a little bit through sublimation, starting to lose some of the fluid that's in it.

I think thatsublimation is the right word whatever sub permeation permeation it's losing water okay slowly over time this is like five years old anyway thanks for watching guys um I'm glad I didn't kill it there are a couple of moments where it got scary but we're Okay, it works, my table is now covered in liquid metal and it's okay guys, thanks for watching and as always, we'll see you in the next one.