I built a 6-axis (2x3) 3D printer that could be groundbreaking!

Over the past few months I have developed a 3D

printer

that is unlike any other and I firmly believe this

could

be the next step in 3D printing. This system has multiple tools that run independently of each other. It sounds a bit like an idex system, but where The idex system is only independent on one

axis

. The system I developed is independent in all three AES, which is why I call it the Time system, which stands for true independent multiple extrusion. With this system it should be possible to print totally different parts in parallel or print the same part using multiple tools like the Autodesk project, but what I think is even more interesting is the possibility of combining totally different materials.

Think about printing glue on each subsequent layer to strengthen the parts or using concrete filler to make the parts heavier or modifying a center of gravity and there are more use cases I can think of and we'll explore that in future videos, but First we have to put this together. The base of our 3D

printer

is a grill plate which I use because it is affordable heats up quickly heats up and has a convenient shape for our purpose the problem is that it warps when heated which I discovered when looking at the pictures last time oh, smoke is coming out so we need to reinforce it and I use these aluminum profiles for that.

I made very professional engineering drawings to make it look like I know what I'm doing and started cutting the profiles roughly to size. I placed the largest bur that

could

fit in my chuck and placed it in it. little milling machine I just bought, not the most advanced machine, but I can finally do some milling work now, the part I like least, that's why I printed this tool so I don't have to think about hitting directly, there I sit. the shed making holes in loop profiles myself just maybe that's a little dramatic the next day I was ready to modify the board itself.

I marked where all the holes should be centered and started drilling, this is the definition of not flat. I slowed down the router for the CH ring these chamers ensure the plate can be mounted without the screw protruding from the surface a bit of clean up and I was ready to mount the frame together I needed a flat surface although for this oh wait, my brother is working on this door that has a fairly large window that is flat, now everything is tight and the next step is to mount these sturdy linear rails. This rail assembly is assembled using threaded rods with corner brackets and compression springs.

It is possible to adjust it like a normal 3D printer. Pretty much all the pieces we need are on this table and to make sure we have everything, I use this checklist and this is the bill of materials that generates my design. literally every piece is in that design and that design is here on my laptop so I can see where all the pieces go, which is quite a few. First we're going to work on this base and first I have to remove this grill plate in order. To exaggerate everything, the diameter of these connecting rods was a little too big.

I was thinking about hammering them, but that would do more harm than good, so I decided to send them down, stacking them now that they fit. I put the belt tensioners together aligned. everything ready and assembled The cart blocks the last step is to add the timing belts and adjust everything so that the opposing carts are perpendicular to the rails the movement system works well the base was assembled at least mechanically and everything went very well well if you ignore the fact that some parts didn't fit and I had to do a redesign, reprint them in pla to see if they fit and reprint them in pet for these final versions and then realize I made another mistake redesigning and reprinting again and now here we are yeah okay yeah okay I'm not very happy with how smooth these rails are going they're not smooth I cleaned them with very fine oil and I also oiled them well you know you have rails stocky when I need some fat for these.

I think that's enough for now, but this is something I'm going to investigate, perhaps for a future version. I already added the temperature sensor to the board and also added this ceramic felt for insulation. the heater from the rest of the electronics speaking of which now it's time to add the electronics I'm going to reuse most of the electronics from this original Grill plate that I have shown in the previous video the reason for the new plate is fine and Also, when I bought the new one, the picture showed that it didn't have this hole and was completely flat, which I thought would make it easier for this purpose, but well, for some reason, this is not completely flat, although it is missing the hole. but it is different from the picture so I am going to change some things one of them is the power supply that is used for LED and it is quite small and this one is 300 ws and the smallest one is 150 so I am going to I will reuse most of this.

I will also add a second solid state relay for the future possibility of having a chamber heater. I removed the electronics from the old grill plate and now it's time to add it to the new one. It must be oriented differently. I didn't want to torture my laser cutter again like I did last time when I cut a piece of material B, so I cut it with PB and was handed a bare piece with all the holes in the right place. PB mode is one of the most experienced PB manufacturers in China, the process was very simple, especially in my case where I only needed the PCB schematic.

I just uploaded the files, selected the required thickness, clicked on order and now here I am adding nuts to it, everything could have been elegant with electronics. which would have been possible because they can make high-end complex PCBs, flexible PCBs and they can assemble them. They use PSB only for its mechanical properties, but often also do CNC machining, sheet metal fabrication, multiple forms of 3D printing, and injection molding, quite impressive. Well, you can send your design. Select a manufacturing process. Select the material and receive a professionally manufactured piece. Thanks to PCB for supporting the channel and this project.

Okay, it's a small miracle that this doesn't work because I demonstrated it in the last video but it all fits together. I think this is a pretty solid grill plate. I managed to connect most of the wiring. I had to modify the springs there to make it fit, but it does, so what's left to do now is. adding the portal, I already made one before to see if everything fits, it's not perfect, um, everything fits. I've designed an improved version which is in Parts here and we'll put it together later, it's good enough. We can use it as our first portal.

This is based on the trusted system that I made the desk lamp with and this is a core x z system so the motors are at the bottom and if both motors rotate in the opposite direction then. the G goes up and down and when they turn in the same direction it will go from left to right or a combination of the two and that's what I think is an interesting advantage of this system is that it puts most of the weight on. on the bottom it's better balanced when we're going to throw this back and forth so I printed everything in pet with carbon fiber in the bamboo lab and with the lamp I used brass rod but with this I used carbon fiber rods carbon, everything is tensioned with dye wire, but the tensioning system itself I'm not very happy with it, so I have an idea for an improved version, that's what we're going to try with the second portal.

It works well, it's very smooth and it's a good thing. The Z corx is that the Gentry always stays horizontal, you can't push one side down, so it's a bit similar to having two lead screws, but I think it's much more elegant and also moves much faster in the Z direction. which can potentially be interesting for non-planar 3D printing, so yeah, I think this could work really well in this setup we're building here and it can also be tilted at a 45° angle so you can print like a ribbon printer. Let's put this on the printer, then we'll put together the second portal, put it on the printer, and then we can do our first test print.

Ok, I made a tensioning system and that is drilling two holes next to each other. It wasn't the easiest thing to do. I think it should work better with the tension system I've shown with the desk lamp because that was a clear bottleneck and it should also be much easier to work with than tension. system I used for the other portal. I also used screws for them, but I made two flat edges there and somehow I had to try to make a nut inside here, so with this system I can just make the nut. the outside so I'm going to use this dyema rope it's pretty strong and it's easier to work with than the cflar because all the cflar were loose strands and this is braided it's a lot easier to just push it in well let's see what happens .

If I'm going to put it on voltage then I just turn it like I did with the lamp yeah okay this is 10 times easier than with the other system okay I moved to this room because I have an example here and I have a line p here where everything was fun in the games until I realized that the heads of those screws were too tall, so yes, I had to mill them and finally, after more than 3 months of work, this thing is put together, like this that the only thing left to do now is to configure it and that will not be an easy task either because we have a strange movement system here, so I am happy that I partnered with Jet, they provided me with their jet. controller that controls all this and is very convenient to configure.

They also supplied these tool boards, the Roto tool boards which can be mounted to the REO Roto from e3d. I have two of them and I think they look great in this. machine, so thank e3d and Jet for these amazing products, you might be wondering why I'm not using the proper extruder that I developed earlier. I didn't want to add even more variables to this, so I decided to use some products that already exist and work together like these. I'm going to turn this on, hopefully it won't explode, then set it up and hopefully we'll see a successful first test print.

Imagine this. I put all my AXS in one basket. I haven't uploaded a video in over 3 months. How bad it would be if this just doesn't work. I really believe in the system and the possibilities we can explore in future videos. I decided to do all this. I don't think I've ever felt so much pressure when making a video and it wouldn't even be funny if this feels good. I think I managed to set this up, it wasn't easy. I set it up. It's a Core xyu V system and I replaced the AES so technically it's a Core x z UW system with an AIS and standalone so yeah the time system is a much easier name to remember it works so let me show you, yes, let's go back home. so first it will go to the first portal, this is tool zero and then once it is HED, it will start the second portal, which is tool one.

It has a little different starting sequence than that, but they both head out. I managed to place them in parallel. It looked a lot better, uh, but for some reason the firmware said the second portal wasn't connected properly. By the way, the rig is oriented completely on top, which makes it much easier when I'm going to tilt this portal at a 45° angle, the zero position of the Z height will be very different, so when I direct it to the top I can tell in the software to set a different offset from this point to the BET itself, so that the Z right now is at the maximum position, so it can't go up, it can only go down, same with that portal also with Y, so V I can only do minus 100, so we have six AES, but we also have two tools, tool zero and tool one, and if I select tool one, then tool Zero moves to one side and now that one is selected and it's possible to reassign the coordinate system, so right now when I move again and move the x

axis

, that one moves with the x axis and the Y axis. but for some reason, uh, Z It's not Z it's still M for this one.

I think this is where I run into the firmware restrictions, but on the other end I don't want to use the functionality of having the zero tool and the tool. one to select between the two because I want to print in parallel so the restrictions will probably be on the slicer itself so for future videos I think I have to come up with some kind of script or whatever that I can manipulate the G Code with So, both portals are doing their thing. Another thing I want to show you is um oh, let me put this microphone in there.

This is a um, a tool changing system. It is inspired by the toolchain system I have shown. In my first video, that's also why this tool board is so convenient, but it can be placed at a 90° angle, so when I go to place this portal at a 45° angle, it's actually can print as a belt printer you need. a mouthpiecepointier, of course, for this to work, but there's a stupid problem here is that when I go to move this thing up, the cable hits this top beam here, so it can't fit, but yeah, these are things . I'll figure that out later when we use this functionality of this 45 degree portal, but before we do our first Test Sprint, I want to quickly thank my Patreon supporters, especially these guys, for their support.

It helps a lot, especially during this project. I think this is the best thing I've developed so far. Yes, it's silly with the grill and those moving gantries, but it works well. Now it's just printing with a portal, but that will be different in the future. I have to be honest about something: the quality of this Sprint is terrible. I still have some problems with the synchronization between the axles and it is also missing the part and the fan. A long way to go, but the hardest part is behind us, oh.