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Complete Build of a Modern Rustic Bathroom

Feb 27, 2020
Hi, I'm Jeff from home renovation, DIY and welcome to my


. Today's video will be a bit unique because here we have a


project video for you to





from scratch. Now this is what I call high luxury. bathroom is a bit high end not top of the line but these really nice fixtures here and great aesthetic so if you are thinking of renovating your bathroom and not sure what to do and looking for some great ideas and to join us on the journey have a cup of coffee maybe to sit back and relax and we will take you on the journey of all the steps it takes to


something like this and any information that is missing your room is missing some information to help keep this video reasonable.
complete build of a modern rustic bathroom
We're going to put all the links in the video description broken down so you can go and look at projects specific to you later, but in this video we'll just show you the process. of what it's like to do your own diy bathroom renovation so you can get ideas that's something you can tackle maybe you can there's some elements of this that you want to get but it'll be a good time anyway we'll get to that in the video oh and by the way at the end of the video we are going to break down the cost of all the different items in this bathroom and the different things that you can do because you can make this bathroom here much less expensive if you would like to and you would get a very similar, okay, you see it from the other side.
complete build of a modern rustic bathroom

More Interesting Facts About,

complete build of a modern rustic bathroom...

The secret to installing one of these tower systems is to plan ahead, so anytime I'm telling people how to renovate a bathroom and you want custom fixtures. you want something really beautiful and sexy the truth is you want to do all your shopping first have everything on site then when you are working and building you can have reference material that is not just a diagram that might be online that might be out of date not be relative to the model number you're dealing with so I love to have stuff I'm a visual guy I love to have it and hold it against a wall and say this is where I want it to go so what are we going to do? now we are going to put a tower on this wall this is not a traditional shower system this is the one mounted on a finished tiled surface you have your body jets in your hand the rain shower the function of waterfall and it is correct. here let's take a quick look here we go this is awesome we just set up a new affiliate program with wayfarer and the reason i did it is because i found out that amazon plumbing fixtures are very limited there wasn't a big lots of great options while the wayfarer seems to be more focused on plumbing fixtures and they have a ton of options so you can start senior right off the bat this is going to be a sexy thing but the important thing for me is to know what it looks like is what's on the back thank you and this is how they're made it's like a PEX pipe only it's much more like a water supply mine agency for your faucet or your toilet it's a line and what they come with is they come with all the hardware and this is a very normal half inch female thread and all I have to do is add a half inch male thread to this and I can connect this supply line to water to inside the wall and then I just mount it now here's a mounting bracket here's a mounting bracket here and then the case comes with a box of hardware like a little French lath and I just mount these two little brackets on the wall and i put them on after connecting the pipes it's usually a two person install but it's really very simple and gives you the flexibility at a later date to just lift it off the wall, undo your two connections and then install the new one if you want now in the side there are joints here this is just for this red set to rest against the stone it's a nice clean finish and you don't have to use silicone all over the place so it's nice that way what I want to do is hold this against me wall.
complete build of a modern rustic bathroom
I want to identify exactly where I want it to be when it's ready. so i can put my markings on the wall and add wood blocks in my frame for where this will be mounted because my center line is not where this studio is so if i want my finish here which is to be honest with you. I love that, oh yeah, I just flip it and I know this is going to be here and then this one has a boom now. I don't have to worry about the exact placement when I'm done, but I'm going to add a 2x4 piece at this point and down there as well as a vertical L to this I'll do Matt 16 inch blocks 16 inch blocks give me the ability to climb or go down when it's time to do the install but i know i will have wood there to screw into one of the other secrets is to remember because you have water lines going up the wall you want to see the depth of a screw that is not going to go through the stone and depth of a 2x4 so keep that in mind one of the benefits of doing all the work yourself is that when it comes time to finish you know how you built it so you won't go screwing the line of water that would be disastrous you know something like this you would think it would be worth a lot of money but the truth is it was only $300 and we had it within a week of when we ordered it such a deal we are going to have a link in the description below the video so you can check our way to find a link and you can find some great deals there.
complete build of a modern rustic bathroom
Be very careful when you are doing this. tight together you don't want to leave gaps because that's a weak point most of these shower towers are very similar installation the locations for the water to come out and where the mounts go will be unique to each tower and depending on the person and what features can have a set higher or set lower so putting this big block even though my lumber is on this my mounting plate goes right here. I have flexibility in the future, okay, so I'll either go with a shorter pull system or the mounting blocks are in a different location. a screw to a socket on the tile this is one of those situations where having your product on site is really important.
I just checked the shower tower to confirm the two water supply lines that connect to my lines here where the location is where they come out where these braided lines feel comfortable you have to be careful not to twist them now at the back of that tower there's actually a little collector there okay and there's a braided line hanging like this for hot and cold but it's near the bottom okay so what's going to happen is I'm actually going to make it go up like this and i need my water supply to go down through the hole to something completely opposite.
I'm right now so I'm actually going I have to cut the line put an L put an elbow reroute these water lines going down so that when I go and hook up my water supply I can have a nice comfortable curve and not risk thinking that its really interesting almost every one of these towers were installed to date the water supply was coming directly out the back ok and we were able to put the extra braided line in the wall in this situation i have to reroute so i'm like my water is coming from the ceiling very interesting now if we were doing this in a basement where the water would come from it wouldn't be a problem in this situation my water is coming from the floor so I'm going to adjust this to leave myself a panel open to install this later and I'll do all the plumbing at the point of installation now that may seem complicated, but the truth is that I have these water lines disconnected at the other end for now so I can pull them in. or and out so i can do all my plumbing push it back on the wall to and then i can bring my water towel ring later it pays to plan ahead and know what your options are and have your product on site.
I wouldn't have the flexibility and I would do these modifications to open up the wall from the other side okay so we've talked briefly about our system here for the shower how we got a built in bench but let's talk about our finish because this is what I I would consider this a waterproofing shower installation superior to many others and I know we've had some criticism in the channel before because we've used drywall with waterproofing systems and yes there are some areas in the northern United States where code Construction has to use a little bit of fiberboard so we thought we'd do this video with cement board just to demonstrate the differences and a lot of the differences are in the cutting techniques to be honest with you I want say pu Mounting to cement board or drywall or anything else doesn't make much of a difference but you do need the right tools so what will os to use very quickly we have to change our wooden blade and that is one of the reasons why I love it. this saw because everything i need to change my blades is right here if i can do it there come on how much to forget skill saws are back where is nate there we go now you cant use a carbide tipped wood blade to cut cement because almost It will blow your mind how many dust decrees let's be honest I'm switching now to bleed which is 62 for a sheet of fiber cement board which is 60 now this sheet is not much of an investment it's less than $20 worth picking up it's available at your local store and just snaps on like any other blade just make sure your carbide tilt our face pointing because the blade rotates counter clockwise so the blade will cut in that direction if you put them on backwards it will just sit there and burn a hole and nothing dr freaking you out wondering why you can't cut the board the funny thing is it will cut but it won't go straight you'll just be around all over the place driving you crazy i love my saw i just push this little button here and i can re-tighten this with the wrench that stores easily in the handle.
I love this song. Now we can use this. We're only cutting half an inch material so we'll adjust the blade a little shorter so we can. you're not increasing the amount of heat you were causing if you bury the entire blade through the cement board then all of those blades make contact as you spin it overheats very quickly and then starts to drift off the path as worked. we're going to call this back in the case for now and then we're going to cut the last few boards here that go into this wall so it's basically two types of quarter inch and a half inch thick fiber cement board and you'll notice the quarter inch comes with this grid and the idea behind it i If you take your utility and me if you can just score and shoot usually you can just score and shoot but not like with your hands you want to place that advantage in a 2x4 and then stand on the other piece and that. it will break and you can measure and cut that way without the blade but honestly I just suggest you get the blade it gives you so much more versatility the half inch doesn't mark or break you will need the blade and you are will need that half inch every anytime the shower wall is connected to another drywall or the room's drywall surface is a half inch so you want to use a half inch cement board here if you are only using the room you have for join two layers and I just think it's a bad deal.
These screws that come for this product have a blue coating and are going to be specially marked for cement board use. There is also a product with green screws that are surface mounted as well. be a bump don't worry about it you don't have to go flush because when you're applying your cement for all your stone you're going to use a 3/8 or a quarter or a half inch line of cement anyway now of course our system for that is to use the fiber tape around the corners it's like doing drywall only after we put the tape down you want to get some quick set cement and you want to apply it with a four inch knife just to install and caulking all corners before using a waterproofing membrane and yes with cement board I suggest using a waterproofing membrane this board itself is not damaged when it gets wet but if you don't have a waterproofing membrane you are not diverting all the water which sits behind your tile towards your drain.
I'm still allowing this to soak up the water and sooner or later the water will hit your frame and create a siphon and that's for sure and every time you take a shower the water will go into the wood and at one point that wood will have so much water that's going to start leaking that's when it's going to go through the ceiling under you the cool thing about these screws is that the really sharp tips go right through that cement pore like nothing the hard part is if you have a lot of your hand is going to put holes in it now you want to install this the same way you would drywall ok one screw every 12 inches this is where this gets interesting ok ok we're just putting our tape on self-adhesive fiberglass mesh as part of the process to deal with this cement. board,the product recommendation is that we use a little quick set on top of that cement once it's dry we can take out our green aqua defense membrane it's the roll and we'll paint the shower before we tile it yeah really handy trowel for inside corners putting mesh in these corners its not very often that you use mesh in a corner if you got stuck on drywall work you can do it you want to use a fast setting cement in those applications and same here as we are using a fast setting cement i can use this corner towel just to embed the tape and the reason we are using this is to give the cement something to cling to so it is a continuous bond from one surface to the next and then the levees when all is said and done and the cements dry and we paint our waterproofing membrane there.
This would be a very very very effective way to create a DIY waterproof shower and save a ton of money. It's a good time to ask if you have any questions about waterproofing systems just put them in the comments section below because we've used Schlueter we've used regular drywall we've used a Schluter membrane the kerdi-board we've used red guard we've used aqua defense used on drywall now we are using it on cement backer board each of these systems is a little different they have different pros and cons including cost and availability so if you are unsure you are always welcome to ask your questions yes , we even made it a tile-on-tile video once we s How do you know how to waterproof your existing space and then give your existing interior a new look?
So I mean there are many options and there is no right way to do it, there are just many different right ways. to do it according to what's best for you so here's a question you get all the time basically it's understanding how these assemblies go together you'll see that it's a shower tray and it has what we call a integrated mosaic flange this rising piece here is part of the continuous pore part of the shower base and it goes right against this space frame it's exactly the same as the bathtub a bathtub also has an integrated mosaic rim so if it's from 16 inches tall 20 inches tall or 2 inches tall all work exactly the same the base is placed against the frame and then your substrate either cement or drywall or kurti board or wedi board whatever you are using comes in six plus of this the secret here is that it doesn't matter if you sit directly on it and in most cases I suggest leaving some space because these products tend to flex when you walk on them or sit on them if you his tub what he does is he just takes his mesh tape or his kerdi bands that orange tape that comes with the kurdish looting system and glues the gap it almost seems ridiculous when you think about it but it's very effective ok and then what we're going to do is follow the following the manufacturer's instructions we're going to put our fast setting cement on top of all of this just to fill it in it's like drying it down well when we use our 20 minute mix and all our gaps and cracks before we take a similar concept here, we're going to fill that gap with cement, then we'll apply our membrane which will then be painted from this point to the wall so there's no way for water to get behind any of these substrates or between any of these cracks one Once you're done that way and this is how you complete your assembly so you have a complete water diversion system from your shower to your drain, this is my favorite waterproofing membrane. , bye, bye, mate, it's just a simple roll up. - Coach you're good to go thick rolls don't work and the best part is one of these tubs will last about four hours so that's awesome what we're going to do now is I actually have to run to the buy one bag of quick set cement because I don't have one which I thought I had but it's been sitting in storage too long and it's gotten clumpy so I'm going to grab another one we'll do the quick joints and then after it sets in about 20 minutes or so, we will be able to continue with this and of course it is just part of the whole process. tile time but we can do all of that tomorrow so by the end of tomorrow we're actually going to h I've finished all our tiles here and it's starting to look like a bathroom.
I'm really excited so now that our cement board is ready. Our mesh tape is installed. We are going to use our cement compound for filling only. the gaps to create a good bond from one surface to the next we are using the quick set there is a product i found at the local construction store it sets in about 15 or 20 minutes so you have to work fast do it in small batches put the water in the bucket first add the mix give it a quick shake then run to work its going to be a bit crazy but i will probably do two or three applications of this i will finish it all and in about a half hour from now we will be being able to do the waterproofing membrane in the shower the recommendation from the company that sells the fiberboard is not just to put the tape but to add the cement so I'm going to show you all the main procedures today just to make sure you have the information correct.
I have an hour. I'm a little fatter than a slu. rry which is perfect now we have to execute the idea is to fill the gap in the base this is the most crucial point then we can always revisit this again after this cement starts to set it doesn't have to be pretty right now just put it in just one application to do the job we can clean it all up afterwards although the cement sets pretty fast there's plenty of working time while it finishes in the hardening process for us to clean it out of the shower pit, of course make sure you remove the plastic if you are putting in a new shower fan take it out because if you waterproof it while the plastics are in place the water will find a way behind it and that would be disastrous ok so now it's a bit like drywall in la crosse the forest of drywall cement a little tree up here in the mountains we're going to work fast here just to get everything really the object ivo it's just getting the cement on the fiber so it has a surface that the waterproof membrane can bond to it starts to get stuck now this is actually it it's the way I like it I like it a little stiffer this is like waxing what you get you are laying and then taking it off try to get your surfaces as smooth and flat as possible so nothing remains the way the tile installation is ok now if you are working on doing a steam shower the only difference in your application is you want to take your cement board or a waterproof drywall or something that you put on the ceiling and continue all these mesh joints. the entire ceiling as well now usually steam showers hold the steam and have full doors into the floor to ceiling system so you're really encapsulating yourself more like a submarine in this system.
I'm just creating water diversion and guarding against a little bit of steam but it's not a big deal and you are when you're here the wiring is set up the fan will be on with the lights and it's guaranteed to evacuate all the moisture in this room so again how far do i want to pr educate yourself so what kind of longevity is up to you, but if you put down a cement board and caulk the joints and use a waterproofing membrane system, most shower systems with a decent fan in the room, you are looking at a shower from 50 to 75 years.
It's not going to be a concern and I'm more than happy with it so we had plenty of time to get our subfloor down and now that the material is hard it's not fully dry and cured yet but it doesn't matter it's a solid substrate and it's done to receive our waterproofing system, which is our Aqua guard. Now I love this product. I have used it before. In fact, the last bathroom we used. This can was in his mother's day video. mention and i wouldn't before that the tub is a little too big for just one shower so if you have it handy you can use it again and here we are using the rest of this tub you know most houses have two bedrooms . if you have three bedrooms you will have two showers to renovate over your lifetime, know one of them you may want to do a complete redo like this and the other we may just want to give it a little face lift as a remodeling job tile on tile you must watch that video we will put the link in the description you can see how you can remodel and the differences vs renovate now this is amazing we are just going to cut this is like painting a wall this brush and roller we bring our waterproofing system down to the acrylic base ok before we put the tiles here we go so we're just going to use this like we're cutting through a wall get a nice little coat here we want to put this pretty thick the secret of an effective membrane. it is actually in the thickness of the material when it is dry, so unlike a wall or less is more with waterproofing systems the more you can leave the better to mattify it is a Canadian company and it has a fairly large distribution circle, but Depending on where this North American country is located in ICA or the world, you will have a tile company that will have a role in the membrane.
This is not a unique product that has been on the market for twenty thirty years and you can find out which dealers you have for supplying tiles and cements. I will also have this product. It is a very common commercial application to use a roll membrane when you are laying tiles. In fact, the other day someone has the vastness that he's a guard in the UK prison system and he just redid the whole thing. the prisoners shower and they just used the roll-on membrane covered with whatever was there before and that's how they did the job there and saved a fortune for the taxpayers.
I don't think it was because of my advice, but the point tip said it's a good system, it's used by professionals, it's accepted in the industry, so I know there are a lot of guys who like to badmouth that kind of product. , but at the end of the day there is a reason these products exist. the market and these can roll on membranes or are worth their weight in gold you don't necessarily have to upgrade to fancy dash systems and we D and Kerdi and sluder all these things I like to say so based on the investment in the tile and the renovation and the life expectancy of the project, your substrate systems and your waterproofing system should be relative to that, so if you're only spending five hundred dollars on tiles for your bathroom renovation, there's absolutely no point in spending a thousand dollars. in waterproofing especially if you're doing it yourself but if you're spending a thousand bucks on tile maybe you're in that market we're looking to protect that investment for a longer period of time it might make sense to make it work amazing depending on the design your shower again if its a steam shower you wanted to waterproof all the walls and ceiling this is just a normal shower we are going to have a fan so what e really could get away with doing the bottom four feet with the water waterproofing system because cement backer board doesn't get damaged if it gets a little wet which is why people like to use it and why some states actually did part of the building code but the reality is if you really want to protect your investment you have to make sure that water doesn't get to the structure behind the cement that's why we're using the membrane it's not the cement or we're concerned that a Any time it gets wet it will transfer that moisture into the wood framing behind it over time and once the wood starts to absorb that moisture it will pull it through the cement and create a siphon and start to drip onto your roof so really what we want to do here is protect the most vulnerable areas from absorption. water and that's the bottom four feet and around the bench so when you're done showering and rinsing the walls and stuff you don't let the water get in there and cause a problem yeah time for code number two between all of us personally I think the first code is going to be fine, but it's safe rather than sorry because it only takes one place for the water to get in and cause a lot of pain, so it's always under construction - you have the mentality of doing too much. the waterproofing membrane is the time to do it the fun is most of the time when it's time to overdo it's the things that no one sees when you're done that's one of the reasons I'm a firm believer that people should do their own renovations of own bathrooms, the most important step is the plumbing, the waterproofing, all these types of things, these are things that are not part of the finished project, the things that, if not done right, that is where the problems lie and These are usually the areas where people cut corners if they're in a hurry and that's why I think homeowners are their best contractors.generals ok so here is the million dollar question for you if you have seen some of our other videos you might have n noticed that we have done many different types of waterproofing systems.
There is no one way to do it. Do you like green things, like the Red Guard, like the Kurdi membrane? Do you like the Kerdi board? Do you like cement board vs waterproof drywall there are many different options I'm curious to hear your opinion and in fact if you can put it in the comment section below I would love to know what state or country you live in and what is your minimum code where you live because this is an area that is different across the board so i chose what is a test basically three or four feet around including the bench because i didn't have enough material in this bucket to do a second full shower to the ceiling, but because this doesn't absorb moisture and I'm not going to be standing here spraying water on the wall all day.
I'm not too worried about it, but we're concerned if the water gets behind the tile and that settles here. I want to make sure it diverts into the shower pan, which is why we're caulking the bench and around the shower nook area. that I'm building and sealing it down to the acrylic base that we're not taking. there are possibilities and i know some of what people might think oh you're taking shortcuts i think if i waterproof all the joints so the water has nowhere to escape and leave the ability for the water behind the tiles to get back in under the tray will be fine hey and for the sake of this video we actually removed the tile installation from this video but if you really want to see it it's an 18 by 36 you can click the card link here , okay and also if you want to find something that makes it a little simpler for you if you are new to tiling then we will put a link in the description below of how to make subway tiling because that would be another great option if you are making your own shower and back to the video so another word halfway through our plumbing is it's time for us to set up our lines and we've already done the verification we know exactly where the mount is we have our wood wall now it's the time to connect our tubing to go up and then down to make our connections as we found out they need to be done what we're going to use is just a simple little PEX plumbing system we're just going to make a few additions on this with some elbows to redirecting the water because right now our photos are facing up and that's not what we want so for people unfamiliar with pecs it's basically a plastic tube and has brass fittings and copper rings that are crimped to create enough pressure around the joint that it will more than withstand anything water related. pressure in the lines we have seen evidence where the pipe will actually burst before the joints give out and these pipes are designed to expand when frozen and not rupture so you are perfectly safe as long as you are tightening. these things right so we'll just be interested in a little bit without pipe these are special pipe X cutters and if you need to buy these tools because of your situation you can connect us on amazon the links in the description see just favorite tools you will be able to find some really cost effective pectoral plumbing tools for your project here we go let me put these extensions on here because now you need to put on two rings and then the elbow, when you work with the things that always put on. on your connectors your copper rings first before you add your fittings and then when you put them in place just pinch and that should help keep it in place.
I have always found it easier to make the connection and then cut the pipe to fit. yes very good can you imagine if i had made the plumbing here in copper before the unit arrived? I wasn't sure and just kind of went off of my experience and experience of all these tower systems. g the back so a lot of guys will plumb this, they'll bring a stiff copper set in an elbow with a thread and this will mount there on the wall ready to roll and then they'll come and put the plumbing. like oh wow look because at the pull site the plumber always comes after the tile when it's done to mount the unit it would come to this and say hmmm what to do because now your pipe is coming from the bottom you can't put that extra joint in there because you don't it's long enough it's going to cause a crimp, just like the plumber then says ok let's install it with a crimp see if we're lucky did you have extra length and then not enough room to fill it all in? in the back so we create trouble there or it says hey remove the tile from the wall i can open the wall and fix the copper lease when you have pecs you are flexible you have options ok basically i can take this stuck off the ceiling here we go no, my waterline is down, how easy is that.
Now that I'm set up right, I just do this and here's the best part. I'm going to do this gasket and it's going to be installed outside the wall, lower than the tile, so even if there is a leak, it's not inside the shower system. It's going to be a problem. These fittings are designed for half inch pecs and that is a standard half inch male thread. Well, nothing special here. The unit that comes with the shower tower has a half inch female thread and they are standard and compatible. Here we go. the shower plumbing is now complete thats simple just a couple of minutes all kinds of flex when i go to install this unit i can go up or down just by adjusting this pax rail on the wall to the right you dont get that kind of flex with the cover Okay, we've finally finished all our stone.
I still have to put the silicone on, but that's ok. Let's finish the tower. Now we're going to silicone a little bit later. We have enough time in the day here to finish filming. this video so this is what we go no do the tower remember last time we talked we had the extension for the plumbing done i'm going to get here to get this out ok there's the red line and now these lines still they are very adjustable because I have them running through the basement and they haven't attached yet the other end makes this really easy if you don't have such a flexible situation that's fine all you need to do is pull this out just an inch or so two but I think having that flexibility is amazing because these towers are heavy and if you're working solo it's a little hard to work with but here we go let me grab the top and bring it over here we'll set it all up so here's the back of my tower and I have this connection here it goes to the hose adapter that will connect to this and we'll do that a little bit later in the video what we're going to worry about now is mounting the brackets on this on the wall, you can see that there is a mounting bracket here and one at the bottom.
These mounting brackets Originally this hose that is your water supply came here on the other side of that issue and if you wanted to you could have lowered the water supply to the bottom and run it right up to the wall like this but then she can see her chance to work there is getting very small she would have to have someone hold her in the air while she's on her knees crawling and squeezing that which is why I opted to bring them in for free so I could run them like that that's what is this height to you you also have this great little plastic gizmo here that you can use to tighten those nuts honestly when you're behind that machine setting it up there's not a lot of room for wrenches so having that little hearing really is a game changer so what we're doing is putting this visibly on the wall and I'm going to be like I like that I like that height I like this feature right on that grout line, yeah so I'm going to make a mark with my t ape that's where I want that thing to be right and then I'm going to measure this sensor this is just a little digital readout screen on the back and my mount is right on top of it wow that was really working out well so let's first measure the center of the shower which is actually right on this line it's very easy because of my stone that I chose I know it's seventeen and a half inches so which is great and i'm going to get mine to work for my first support at that height now all i do is measure the distance from one support to another and i can translate that information there we go this way you want to be pretty exact ok thirty seven and a quarter is ok I should be able to guess within a meter here thirty seven and a quarter from that location is my center line ok just to make sure I'm going to grab my laser level drop a line on that make sure that I have a nice Wow, that's actually deadly beryllium here we are we have our hardware this is my shower wand and hose and fittings we'll put all of that on the tower but in the bag it also comes with what I call my little french cleat mounting clips ok so the idea is you mount it there this screws into the wall and then the bar on the back of the unit will come down and slide behind it making it compressible against the wall nice and simple.
It also comes with the plugs I need, which are a quarter inch each. Screw caps. Stainless steel screws. This is my favorite. i have some plastic washers in there if you are working with a textured stone if you want to install one of these shower units you may need to use one of these to create enough space for the unit to hook up well so textured stone sometimes you'll need to put this behind the plate to build the wall plate so your unit can still mount on top of that in the middle of all that texture that's there too that's a good option so here we have looks like this because we have our center mark across the line we're going to put this here and we're going to use our little tiny torpedo level which in a small area is incredibly accurate if you put it exactly on the line in that bubble here we go that's my setup line BAM okay and we'll just confirm there's 37 - a fourth which was the number we were using.
I love it. The reason you want it to be perfect is that there's only a little bit of area to work with with this slope. It actually pulls the machine by gravity towards the wall if you have them. if it goes too far it will connect with one part and not the other and the machine will end up rubbing and that's undesirable so now we take our clips because the back of that machine that we were measuring from actually meets right near the bottom okay the overall dimension of where we did it will be about a half inch so don't be too hard on yourself let's just work with the numbers we got and I'm just going to mark a center line on the actual bracket for that i can line up on my pencil as well so i'm going to over exaggerate where those holes are so i know exactly where to drill this will make everything look relatively perfect every time ok we have a beautiful quarter inch glass and a piece tile nothing fancy it's pretty simple we're just going to slow down on the drill and this should brine through that tile with ease here this is the grinding sound of the blade ok ok start all four before i wear the tip down a bit and so i'm going to show you a trick to show you how to keep the bit from overheating because they will split if they get too hot now that we have our starting hole if already We don't need the tape.
I'm just going to get our wet sponge. We were using this for grout before. I'm going to put my bit on my tip and drill while keeping two things off the tip works great on ceramic and you'll find your blade will last much longer also it takes forever to drill the hole o h yeah that's the way I like it get through the fog because I don't have all day ladies what I've had people tell me for years don't use it on camera bore look how fast it was I mean why would you? you two less I would still be working on that first hope I was using the other system yes I know parts don't last that long but how often will you install the shower.
I don't want to be here all day messing around with drilling a couple of holes if you remember we've put wood behind these areas so we don't have to rely on plugs, which is what we did, we just went through the concrete. to sprout now we can screw up to the lip that's awesome burst a phillips head god damn my existence ok so it's easier to put the screw and phillips in especially your hard work Oh typical screws aren't long enough to get out of my tile through my cement board into the wood uh-huh I have to rely on sockets now that's great or I'm going to get a long ger screw problem solved Tomo some two and a half inch deck screws because if you remember you don't want to go with more screwof what you need we have one and a half just think about my pores behind on the flat plus 1/2 inch mint bar plus almost 1/2 inch for tile which is two and a half this will not put my plumbing at risk because the head of that screw won't go through the plate and the thickness of that plate plus the head is almost 1/4 so we're in great shape now just a matter of drilling that's ok again be careful not to over tighten make sure you your cement is nice and dry on the back we want it stiff but not too tight just until this thing stops moving so here is the elbow that leads to the hand wand this always drives me crazy was there was a filter at the inlet i hate restrictions on my water flow it has nothing to do with anything oh yeah baby now let's do some pressure hey that's a decent quality hose huh surprise surprise when that goes like this. means it's a nice metal hose that twists out of the package means we're half plastic for 50 bucks you can get a really good metal one this is my only problem oh no those are, that's silicone rubber gasp yes these hoses come with built- in joints ok ok that's my correct three components and it looks like this is my clamp to hold it to my tower ok now just a quick warning on the back of This tower, almost never, you've never had, has a small gasket on it. ok it's covering the galvanized edge so when you're grabbing your tower for them you're nice and safe in the rest of this area like when you're taking a shower don't reach ok this is sheet metal it's just rock cut when your hands are wet if you touch this it will cut you to the bone so be careful there ain't no company that doesn't have exposed metal so be smart when you're installing make sure you're grabbing the gasket on the back, ok here we go there are two things going on here one is we want to attach this to the other side see they cut the oval out of the bit So is the threaded connection there so you can? don't get me confused about putting that leave that gasket there it's to keep water out if you really want to instigate it if you want to see better we could put the gasket on the inside to be honest with you little water gets in it's not the end of the world i'm going well because i had a sexy like these are all plastic pieces ok so the danger here is i've over-tightened them and broken them what i like to do is rotate this around five degrees past me level as tight as i can and then twist it back into position we just have a good hand adjustable wrench it's really good this does loosen up a bit over time which is very possible due to the type of materials we were working with here, Beverly here is a plastic accessory so having yo It's not going to be a big surprise that it comes loose.
It is not a problem. You lift it off the wall once we install it. You can get up. Have someone work with you or you can use my cheat when you take it down. pull it down and you can tighten all your plumbing connections now here we are this is the supply line that goes to that wand ok use my trick roll back right there you heard that and then you keep going forward that way you know you're not crossing the thread anytime you're threading a plastic or non-plastic fitting don't discount your own strength you can easily cross it and just crimp it and think it's nice and tight and whatever you've done this destroyed your seal get this nice comfortable moderate strength here you know ok don't over do it and then pull the hose to the position it should move freely to give it a good shape ok this hose here has two ends this end is the one that sits in the cradle , just confirm that before you go and install it right because thr Read is universal and will work on both ends I have a go back guy I can't even tell you all the times I've messed something up on me i life until i learned that secret impulses are crazy at this point i want to have a shower here tomorrow morning.
I don't want to wonder if I can take a shower, ok, wrap your bubble wrap around your fixture, squeeze it with the pliers again, ok, you can over-tighten it and it will be all over. it will break if you don't tighten it enough it will leak but you're inside a shower it's ok so if you're going to make a mistake err on the side of needing to tighten it that's later because it's always an option to replace the part. that'll just ruin your day okay so now we're ready to set up this bad boy we need on the creative table here something with some weight to it so the bucket of water from when I touched it I'll throw my hock in there it's made of solid aluminum so nothing bad is going to happen there we're just going to lift this tower up in the air and put it there now. now i can connect i realize these lines are color coded for hot and cold just like my water supply lines so it should be as simple as possible this is metal and metal so the risk of thread crossing is not the same if there are two go around, you're good and use this little wrench to leverage, okay, here we go along this line.
I've seen situations where maybe two or three people work together trying to put one of these things together. platform you can rest your fixture you don't like your life we ​​don't have them hand tight now the fixture has the ability to put a key on it let's take advantage of it yes it's ok because this thing goes inside the wall ok this is not a place you want to waste your time okay here we go that's it not for my next act we're going to get this up back on the wall now we didn't have to have this pipe in the wall plenty of space in the cavity here for it let's not be afraid of take advantage of that space now we're hanging high we're in a good position now press against the wall with your knee and hands and slide down to activate the mechanism that's it now it's a little dusty but you'll see it on the side here that gasket is almost fully meshed which is really good ok now these systems you'll see now don't work now don't work the same there we go no inevitably people will ask me what's up with the g great hole in the wall Jeff here's a secret if you have the fan on when you're in the shower all the moisture that comes into the air is pulled out of the air at about 110 cubic feet per minute you're not going to have this wall start sweating on you and dripping behind if there's a little moisture behind that wall it's made with tile and cement board well it won't get moldy if the wire actually drips into the wall cavities the house is made of wood it can soak up a couple of ounces of water every month every day you can absorb a lot of water er and redistribute it back to the atmosphere.
Relative humidity takes care of all these problems. just thinking you're waterproofing that's a waste of time it looks ugly and it's going to end up coming loose because this is a wet area and silicone that sits in so much water with something that's moving it's going to loosen the seal that you won't have clear anymore it will show translucent nasty white leave it nice leave it like it's ok and enjoy it and if it starts giving you trouble first take the twenty and a half hour to replace it with another system what a great idea especially when you're going to sell your house so in five ten years old and i want to sell this place i can take this other $300 unit and have a new shower because stone doesn't age but generally speaking metals lose their polish over time and it would be nice to upgrade so in this video we will install this live edge countertop in our bathroom, mount it floating on the wall, show you all the steps required for mounting. and setting up the countertop mani if ​​you can get that out of the way thanks mate i'm going to start sanding right now what we're going to do we're going to take our 3/4 inch rod it comes with elbows you can buy at the hardware store this is standard stuff at any Home Depot so you don't have to hunt it down and buy the elbow and the rod and both ends of the router are threaded which means if you buy a small foot rod like that you can cut it down and have the extension come out as well like so What I'm going to do is configure this.
I'm going to have Matt cut right there. I think I like that height there so we basically wanted our countertop to be set to 32 inches we're going to use a sink so we're not going to be too tall and that's right hoop and here what I'm going to do is just look at my mark, get some space and here we go, Matt, what I want you to do is give me three of these cut pieces in the same place here. ok but i need three eighteen inch pieces ok so three this length and the three and 18 inches is ok there are two more rods right there you can cut them for me I'm Matt, I'm going to use that evolution saw, it's our new tool. a blade cuts wood and metal if you haven't seen it work before we have a video where we made an amazing huge hardwood deck we did the entire hardwood deck over three days cutting that blade and then it could still cut through out of a quarter inch steel tube it blew my mind we are still using that same blade today and if you want to check it out we will put a link in the description that video is awesome i need the thread yeah yeah thats very important that's why i want to put all the marks on me before you start cutting i'll take the marker tape mark these two too here we go thumbs up against the fence here you go you're creating a pivot thank you no it's not yes dad so now that we have our pieces cut out we've assembled them just thread them into the corner like that and you can start to figure out really quickly how this is going to come together now these elbows don't necessarily make the tub If everything is square the goal is to set this up where it's perfectly level and all the same height so to do that you're going to use a nice straight piece of wood and a laser level that way we can set up the dead back and front dead level and then set it all up accordingly now my laser level has a universal thread for all camera highlights which makes this awesome because i can adjust the height of this bad boy exactly where i want it to be well done so i am using my laser line to tell me where is the level for the top of the pipe and that will be that where the thickness of the countertop starts right and there you have it pl us a vessel sink which makes it very snug and now we're just going to take our stock two piece for six here and we're going to set this up right on the line and put in a mounting screw okay there we go so now I have a positive stop when I'm installing my rod the part The back of the counter will be level correctly and what we can do is manipulate the angle that we set this up so that the front is level right so now I'm going to lower my laser level about 3/8 of an inch there we go and my goal we'll have all these lines on the pipes in the same place i have a laser line right in the middle of my pipe and i know that's going to be level so i keep changing my line here oh that's going to work awesome , so these clips really fit exactly to the dimension of the same spot where you put it right under the elbow ok and then the best way I can think of to do this is going to be to get my pipe perfectly level first and then , when you're in a perfect position take my marker and mark my po ints I don't want my bolts to come out right so where do you use our torpedo hit level here as well when you're working with the counter?
If you install your brackets at about a 1 or 2 degree angle that's okay because there's a little bit of flex here under the weight and under when you pull this under the weight it's going to be level that's awesome so we do this three times, we have the same setup, but what I can do is I can actually take out my four foot level and after I get all these rods, install them with one or two screws. perfect every time the funniest thing about this whole system is when you go to the lumber store to buy your lumber the big slab because it's made of pine there's only a hundred and sixty bucks that's for a 20 inch deep for almost 7ft thats a great deal and then right next door they are selling square eel pipe street which of course you would have to paint and prime and assemble they sell the legs assembled for you and its ridiculously expensive cost as much as lumber this pipe galvanized is four foot it was nine bucks and the elbow another two so for 35 bucks I got all the hardware for this counter and all you have to do is be able to cut that steel now you can use a grinder or hacksaw if you had to do it al end of the day it doesnt really matter im just rotten cause i have the new evolution i sob if not the only reason they charge so much money for that leg of steel is because people have no idea a of how to design a proper way to attach the wood so having a system like this in place is great for counters that like it but if you just wanted to buy some square steel you'd be surprised how cheapwhich is if you have the ability to cut it you can save yourself a fortune so just so you can visualize this I'm going to have a live edge solid wood count ertop almost seven feet across the room we're going to put up a couple of bookshelves of under counter baskets will look great leaves a great open concept you get that illusion of space that is so easy to keep clean and replaces the need for a whole vanity now a live edge counter plus a top mount sink and faucet i want say the vanity for me will cost less than two hundred bucks try to find a vanity for $200 good luck this is the way to go sometimes when you go minimalist you can save a fortune we are done with this now ok so now all what we need to do is twist these threads out of the other threads, set them aside, install our drywall and we're just going to measure from the edge here. make a mark with our pencil so we can rotate a hole and then after the drywall is installed and it's all done we can go back and slide these rods in again.
We are ready to assemble our countertop. We can use the same clips below to attach the countertop to the rod. and simple so that's t The preparation phase now we're going to take a look at all the steps that are necessary to get the countertop ready to go so I set up my laser level this will be my center line ok and you can see it here, okay? What you want to do is take a look at your measurement. We're going with a 20-inch speed counter. What you want to do is just mark your make a mark on your wall.
Just make a 20-inch pencil marker on the laser line. i have one on each side we are going to mark on the drywall the back measurement and the front measurement off the center line so left to right the left side on the back is 35 and 3/4 ok and on the right side in the back it's going to be 32 and 3/4 ok now do the same thing here and this is where the trick is to come here and get your number here so 35 and always going a little further small it's safer that way 35-minute 8 ok that's significantly different yeah look this is oh there's no such thing as a square wall so you can't when you're cutting something that's no longer square it doesn't have a straight edge you have to go from a center line so you're going to make a template for the cut on this wall and then translate all this information onto your slab of wood now the front here do the same there's a number there 33 and I'll call it 1 /8 alright now take this info so take your slab alright and you're going to drop your centerline to the right and then what we're going to do is even though the slab has this shape, we're going to cut from this corner something as square as we can here and then we're going to take the center line and translate all these pieces of information into it and we'll cut both ends to fit in the room makes sense ok ok i saw you we can always buy another one if you mess it up but i'd rather or not so let's measure twice and cut once basically what we're doing is taking this center line and measure from this point, wall in back which is what it means left and right and front left side BAM and right side and what we're going to do is take our slab throw a center line on it and to measure all four intersections so we can cut those lines and then we can go right through the back and clean it up we're just going to drop that sucker in there when we're done it'll be perfect so we've got the mo strador on our bench it's upside down because the skill saw cuts from the bottom clean and I put a straight edge on the back of them that I'm going to cut that represents where the wall goes the live edge is angled so I'm going to peel the board an inch and a half.
No, this is not exact science. I don't need a saw for this and I'll tell you why because my wall isn't straight and I'm going to finish it at the end of the day once I have this cut to fit when the room is finished I'm ready to install it then I'll take this c the countertop there place it on my rods and then I'm going to trace the back wall so it fits perfectly but that's after everything else is done for now what we want to do is create a straight line and start the fabrication process to being able to measure from my center line and double my room dimension and cut the sides as well doesn't make sense to restore the whole slab we just want to spend time sanding and finishing the part we are going to use now what we want to do is measure everything over 78 inches makes the center line around 39 ok so now all I have to do is translate this number to my center line sorry so I can translate the numbers now we are rel atively straight here now so I get a chance here we go I represent my center line this is where it gets tricky one of the secrets to working backwards is knowing the difference between left and right now so when you're set up , I'll flip it, okay, this is my left side, this is my right side. so my le The feet side in the front is 3508 from here because that's the front this a little bit back so I'm going to measure 3508 in the back the straight front and back side is 35 and 3/4 and we're just going to translate this information that we took from the other room, then we can connect the dots and that's going to be our cut line, there we go, so before we go back to finish, we'll take this in the other room and set it up in space just to make sure 33 yes these balls are really very oh good idea that's square yes i live in a parallelogram one more time very quickly we'll just confirm this that's my back that's the fruit this is still the left side 3508 yes this it's the front left side the back side 35 3/4 i got it now we'll cut the ends now i'm going to cut on the line but i'm going to cut on the line basically given myself about a sixteenth of an inch of extra material is more easy for me to making sure everything is tight and well if it's a little tight it's easier to shave off or if it's hard to grow the countertop so let's just give each other some mercy and take the guard off here so I'll go look and you say hi we'll fuck it up now you can see the countertops intentionally a bit larger than they need to be there are two factors here we need to keep in mind one we haven't made any drywall mud briquettes so those corners they will be built into this part of the wall it has a bit of an arc this wasn't good enough and you just draw it there is our new cut line that will make it perfect and then I'll put Matt to work sanding this surface down and making it perfect it's ok ok so now i'm going to describe cut done in relative terms it's the perfect hole size now no matter what you do at this point you're going to have to make some adjustments with the cut leader the proper routing you should do after all the drywall mud is done, sanded, primed and painted. but in the meantime we're going to go ahead and finish the countertop because this is a lot of work so we're just going to use a basic orbital sander and some 80 grit sandpaper to get rid of all these factory dents and nicks and scratches ok , whatever is left of the saw and then when we're done. with this we're going to go down to a 180 grit sandpaper to get a nice smooth finish and then we'll put the finish on and show you that finish later we're using a water based flat finish and we're going to fill in all the bark and apply three layers on this, oh this will look amazing.
I should mention that I make sure we have a good quality mask. your powder in a container like this what you can do is at the end of this we're going to mix this with some glue and really make a paste that we can use to fill all these holes before we switch to the last sandpaper and that way we will have a nice filled and finished counter top without chops it will be much easier so i cut my drywall to size sion of this face and now what i have to do is translate all this information so the best way to do it is just measure down get nice and low this is nine and a quarter times nine ok so the top number will be the distance from the left the bottom number will be the distance down from the edge of the drywall so what should all be equal.
Now we take all that information translate it to our sheet of drywall and this is nice my wife surprised me today mm-hmm my last sheet of drywall and she leaves me a love note in that nice yes I told her that you had to use black marker now i have a special huge primer just to cover them up oh okay down nine and a quarter there we go and just put a cross twenty five and a quarter I'm also going to draw the relative size of the hole that I need so this is a 3/4 inch hole this is a 3/4 inch hole I am cutting larger than I need because I am going to use cover up extensions to cover it all.
This is a one and a half inch pipe. e so 3/4 and so these are just 1/2 inch water lines no go get my rotors and we're ripping all these holes out now you can always use a drywall saw to cut a hole like this is going to force Move that sucker around in frustration or you can see a list of my favorite tools, grab one of these for a couple hundred bucks and you can cut drywall like nobody's business. Be as creative as you want. ok so drywall is a relatively dense material but if you put a hammer on it you're only going to deal damage right at the point of impact but if you use a piece of wood to spread the impact you get all that force in a bigger area and you won't damage your dremel so in this situation i just need a little love to get it done the same they don't want to ruin your drywall ok so let's lift this into position mmm maybe not now there's a fine line between giving something some love with a hammer and just trying Too aggressive like you're trying to pry up this drywall.
I have to close 3/8 of an inch. I'm tight here, so if I don't cut some of this, I'm guaranteed to destroy me. now when i go there i can step on it thats something i can live with so much easier take some more hair yeah beautiful now just show her no we got that one up there. go back tell you till you feel let's eat it sit on the thread and there's a counter tub ok there we go now this area over here is very easy to fill up when we kick up the drywall mud. I'll just use some quixotic compound pop maybe just some mesh will clean it up naturally there's no natural flange cover covering these it's attractive so we'll just try to create a nice clean paint edge to the best of our ability this out of the way for now so we don't have a good one Michelle loves jeff yeah what a cheesy brad ok so we've finished our first level of sanding here and you'll see some bumpy areas where we have nicks and that sort of thing real quick if i just take my sawdust and rub it in well you'll get an idea of ​​what it's going to look like when it's all done but that's just dust there's nothing in there to hold it in there and it just gets chipped again so here's what we do: come on going to take some wood glue we're going to remove the filter here we go that's enough and we're just going to do a little glue now the wood glue alone it has its own coloration but if you used the same powder material and I mixed it or with your glue and then you used it as a repair compound you will have something that will fill the hole and it will be relatively the same color and it will look much better now the reason I like to use the sawdust because it adds a little more filler to this material so that when the glue dries it doesn't shrink so much that we've got another big hole back here to fill two or more now this is not a technique that it's not like working with epoxy ok the point of this is to fill the hole so that when we add our finish we don't have to use five six seven coats of finish to fill these holes ok we're just making sure every aspect of this wood that isn't perfect can be sanded down so we have a finish flat and then two or three coats of finish will do the job, yes that needs a bit more. fill a hole but it sure works fine come back to the 80 grit sandpaper in about 20 minutes give it a quick spin just to get all the glue residue off the surface of the wood then we'll finish one more time with a 220 grit sandpaper to finish the whole thing off oh and then we can start the finishing process yeah here we are actually we've done the second coat outside of the chamber. we just took our 220 orbital sander paper and did a quick pass over the entire first coat and then w wiped it down in damp water just to get rid of all the dirt because generally speaking we were working on the dirty area, now we cleaned up the area and now we're ready for our third coat it's nice and smooth we don't want to go back to the orbital sander because we have a clean surface andnice but what we want to do is move on and usually most of the second, broadly speaking, is just to seal the wood with specialized wood software so now we're going to use this product a lot and we're going to start from the middle and drag it to the outside because outside is where the dirt hides and what we're going to do is use this coat a lot here we go now this is a water based product i've never used it but it's from the same place you bought the wood and it was recommended to you so I always take a recommendation from a store that is a specialty store and use their products it is a great way to expand your knowledge base it is also a great idea since they are using that product on their wood regularly to have some kind of expectation of good results right now just to give you an idea when you go to the hardware stores you can buy live pine that is available i think they are selling the designer furniture I mean nowadays everyone is getting into this market and at the hardware store a pine piece like this will cost you a few hundred bucks but funnily enough we went to a designer lumber supplier for this product called fountain lumber here in Ottawa if you are in the area ok this particular pine counter was a hundred and sixty bucks and it is milled there it is stored on site in climate controlled conditions so it will not warp and work this slab is in mint condition conditions over 20 inches wide is still perfect and you don't have to worry about it now if you go to a box store I don't know generally speaking you're not going to get the same kind of quality and you're not going to get the same kind of customer service That's for sure and since it's half the price it's a win-win here we go now this code we're going to go nice and thick and we're just going to go through it a few times to make sure we get rid of all the gobs add them because generally this is not going to get soaked in the same way that we're going to look for that sheet of glass more and the way we're going to finish this layer when we're done we're going to come back with some 4-0 steel wool now, if you are not familiar with that rating when you go to the hardware store in the paint department you will find steel wool available in small packets use about eight or ten packets in a bag and they will have everything from two zero two five zero and in the furniture refinishing business steel wool is very common because it can be spun so finely it hardly sands anything at all and you can use it to sand the finish have a tumbler like this on a floor or a piece of furniture oh here we go and do it what it does is sand it's so fine you can't even see the marks when you're done and that's why you want to use it because it can take something like a four or five zero in a finish coat on something like this and it'll go smooth as glass , there is no such thing It's like applying a glass smooth finish you actually have to sand it down to glass smooth so if you want it perfect get a nice healthy coat here on the third coat ok take it down make sure it doesn't drip when done and then when it's done drying take your Still just buff it with the steel wool and it will be perfect every time as this will be in a bathroom and we don't want the Berkeley to get damaged.
Ready for this. We're doing these three layers. the bark is alright we're going to make this as bulletproof as we can just to make sure that in we're not going to get an accidental chip äj-- chip edge is even a word i think i just made a word here we go good and here's the process where we're going to put too much here without any consideration for our own safety now you're going to want to put on two or three layers here as well and then when you're, yeah just go and rub it in here with a blue cloth if there's a little bit sitting on the edge it won't hurt anyone it will dry nice but you definitely want to make sure that in this situation paint more is better it's ok on the counter top less is better because you get a better finished but here we're dealing with just trying to protect this crust so more you better spray it real good and then go back just catching all the drips okay now this is already two coats and you can see it's got that nice shine to even though it's a flat finish because it's absolutely saturated that's fine and that's the goal here we want a counter that's not just glass smooth flat shiny and waterproof we want it to be really tough and bark the hardest that we can. it doesn't splinter when people lean against it, basically I'm going to finish this and then it'll be ready to install after we get the steel wall on that surface. project where we have our drywall in our tent, do the mud for the ceilings, paint the first coat, paint the walls, paint frisco, which we hate, happens sometimes when you have a space and it doesn't have the lighting finished you know you make your best decision and this is what happens anyway it's supposed to look a lot more steel blue but here it looks baby blue so we're going to paint again but that's not it's going to slow us down remember we took all these pipes we're just going to thread them all back now we're done as soon as i can find the right spot there it's ok torsion problem my own advice back off tell you feel feel good well the reason why the reason this has so much weight is because the threading we have is five or six threads deep in this thing which has an immense amount of weight that is why this system is so amazing just resist the urge to hold the pair You're behind on that, that'll probably cut your hand off, okay, here we go, we're at the door, so now, late, you know, lie down there. nice and easy ok now take it straight to the back wall right to the back wall I'm going to catch my exterior here is the best part about drywall hooray it doesn't fit give us a chance to show you a little scribing technique now this the counter has to go that way.
I can see a screw popping out, which means we're putting the drywall on the wall under a lot of pressure here. I am very tight at the back and have not closed my gap yet. so the front when i push this back it will open up even more which means its probably perfect ok these pencils the carpenter pencils come with a wide side and the thin side for this very reason that describes you would see that and you just hold it against your surface and you can draw a line now when I do that. I'm taking an extra eighth of I'm still too tight it won't cut it so I'm going to go to the wide side and I'm going to write this way it gets me almost to a perfect 2-0 ok this is what we wear these if you need to go wider you can even put your finger behind it and you can draw a straight line or you can take a piece of strap and put it against the wall or any other flat surface that's ok and you can follow the contour of the wall like this how much plus P the wall is smaller the other thing you want to use to build so if it really works use a finger if it's relatively straight use whatever comes in handy here we go further up you can repaint all the balls oh yeah yeah , you never finish painting a project like this until everything is installed using brush scratches and wobbling great we don't have to beat the shit out of everything ok so let's go back that far we ain't talking a lot of meat look that that will be well amazing what an eighth an eighth of an inch from the flat side you know its an inch up get a quarter inch thick in the center of the caps on any of the center 1/2 LEDs in a corner perfect almost everything in life can be can fix with those two dimensions with some acrylic latex putty there you go let's lift it up flatten it come here pipe there you go ok ok pick it up a bit first look at this this is how squaring up all lives is check out its new perfect good now this is our backsplash tile and here's a cheap plug in for me we're actually putting this up as a herringbone backsplash this is an amazing rich backsplash color you'll want to watch that video a below i will link a description of the video well welcome to my world i am going to need the counter here now and we are going to use these amazing clips these are actually for conduit pipes but they have exactly the same diameter as the other side of the galvanized steel pipe that's a great trick to know why this is available in the plumbing department this is available in the electrical department at home depot and look at this perfect fit i mean just amazing especially working upside down now we're using an interesting two quarter screw what thickness is my wood no problem ok it was ok for duplicating make sure you don't drill the other side because that would be really a pain now i'm going to put the clip on the front and rear of this because there is an overhang because the counter is inconsistent we shortened it on purpose and there is an overhang so we want to join the front and back on the two outer tubes and the middle one doesn't need to be connected it's really relevant, it's just there to help carry to support the weight now we're going to go up an inch from the end just so we don't risk d ividing wood and drill works great there too when you're working on your back so be prepared for it to make your life simple ok ok that's not attractive good luck we still have to finish this countertop we still have to put the last layer.
It already has two coats of finish on it and what we want to do now I mean so smooth this is ok it's nice it's sealed all that good stuff but it's not glass like now this is still ok is this is a 4-0 steel wool I mean the package literally has a grading system of 3 to course or 4 zeros is ok four zeros is great for polishing furniture you can take this and put it on any piece of furniture and polish it and this is what you use on the counter top this is this is what you use to polish any surface lacquer vera Thames oil based water base never mind use this to polish that surface just a quick rub like this is all it takes to tell you now that this is the difference between beautiful and not beautiful now the other thing it does it will leave little residue there it's ok and you don't want to put another coat on there if you're going to have any steel residue The steel will rust and you don't want it to get caught up in your finish coat so take your rags, lime pick them up and throw them away throw it away it's ok it's like tape it cleans it up and throws it away and if you follow that procedure you won't have any steel fibers left on the counter when you go back for your last coat and again like any other coat. start at the edge follow the green and just pull it to the center ok this will be your third layer it will make it absolutely beautiful then the crazy thing is when this layer is dry you can get the same thing still it will come back and give it's a light polish and now that it's got three coats and the reason we waited until we did the third coat until it was in place because we knew it was going to cut well and we didn't want to have our final piece here until after may the cut be at that time here we go kind and liberal now let's drag and stretch this head that's coming our way here we go in this video I'm going to install a herringbone tile boom as a backsplash in this



bathroom now this is two and a half times 24 so it will be some very delicate detailed work but i have a simple way to do it so stick with it they will show you all my tips and tricks and you can be on i/o master here so q Because this product will officially be placed on a wall and not in a damp area we will only be using one adhesive this is an omnidirectional grip this particular adhesive is available at your local construction store and has a very good bond strength, so it has enough bond strength to hold this tile in place on the wall after we've said off we go I'm going to use spacers just to help make sure all of our grout lines are very consistent.
I'm here now. Here's a number one secret when shopping for spacers for your mosaic work. Get two different sizes. I got a 16 and 1/8. The reason for that. it's simple, sometimes in your tiles you need to change the grout line to finish, so in this particular case we mentioned that a bit earlier when we found out that we could be a perfect herringbone finish to the edge of the wall if you go with the spacer 1/16 now if that doesn't end up working. I also got the 1/8 in case you need it, but it's nice to have options now of course if you're a fan of the channel you have.
You've seen my videos before you know I love my laser and we're going to throw it in here. I already did my central line. You will see that it is in line with my box, which of course does not mean with the center of my light. and i like to set everything up very very symmetrical especially in a bathroom small spaces you can't afford to work right you have to start in the middle and work your way up so now i have my line established that's good , the trick of course, and the spike is that it overlaps, so you have to decide what your center line is, is it the point? or is it in the middle of the tile where it overlaps, that's itthe magic visually that point will be the center whether you like it or not so if i install my tile like this and so on that center line visually that's awesome ok this is what happens around here oh perfect ends well and that's what we're going through so the trick with the tenon is you don't want to start with the bottom row because that's all a little bunch of little cut pieces that you want to start with your full tile and you want to have the full dimension laid out and square it so what we're going to use is some of these little wood screws okay and we're going to put some adhesive on the wall we're going to get our first four tiles in place and we're going to use our frame box Because you already have a perfect 45 we'll put it on your counter level and then install all of our stone based on that level and counter level and that will be my line ok so I can install that. stone like that anywhere you want and it will be absolutely perfect now to apply our adhesive we are using this trowel here this is a quart by quart square notch trowel it does a great job of spreading a nice bead of adhesive that also doesn't put too much on the wall so that when you press your stone it doesn't come off between time.
Another thing to consider when you're doing a project like this is the total square footage of the space I have twenty six and a half square feet from the countertop to the ceiling so that's what we're going to cover so I bought exactly twenty six and a half square feet of stone the danger is that it won't be enough with all the little cuts to cover the whole space but I'm cheating on the save Give me money because this stone was insanely expensive and I know my mirror is going to be this big it's ok i just drew that with my marker so i don't need to fill it all up.
I want to leave a hole in the wall here on purpose so I can still fish my wire up to the box so I can get my low voltage power to the mirror so it doesn't fog up there we go so to start I wonder just pave in the general vicinity of where I know that tile is going to go and I'll clean it up as I go. Here we're going to kind of estimate for now. Ok, we'll send our tiles. You don't need a little more. Are here. and you see how that supports it that actually supports the tile on the counter without any difficulty, don't you know?
What I don't know is if this is a perfect 45 minute so that's what I have to take care of now and I always love to have a bit of cardboard on my countertops when I'm working just to help protect my surface that's ok, so here we go now i have to change my angle first that's my 45 ok ok rough but i want this to be on my center line so now we'll slide it ok almost perfect yea i'm very happy with So now the first few tiles are going to be the hardest and messiest, keep everything neat and tidy while you work because it will probably be a couple of hours before we get back to this area down here we don't want it to dry out glue build up in the corners it's hard to clean afterwards like i said we have our 1/16 spacers we'll finish them now let's continue with our pattern i want to take it from here and then up for a long time so this is where it gets interesting remember what e talked about where the center line is on this and that peak is usually where the center line is visually it looks like the center but the truth of it is the center is right here it's in the middle of th is so when i put this on the wall , I'm actually getting closer to the wall by an inch and this tile doesn't fit so I have to choose depending on the situation if you have a traditional sink and a center faucet and offset this a bit you're going to run into a layout problem in the one that will look silly to have all the spikes on the sides of the faucet as you can imagine if your faucets are here and everything is off an inch that's fine it may look silly but to me because I'm using a stone sink and my facets already make up for my mirror so big I don't really have a centerline issue to deal with so what I'm going to do is actually send that off the wall and I'm going to reposition all my tile so I can finish wall to centered wall for full stone here too Wow that will be awesome.
I like that we are using these 116 spacers. it comes really hidden just to make sure we have everything the way we want it now let's see if we get the last e piece of our initial layout in place here like this it's crazy the fact that this is going to work is crazy that's just dipping this now now we know this doesn't happen every time and this is kind of crazy but i got the perfect W that's new wow factor yeah we lucked out for the purpose of this video it actually worked really well in this particular situation this is a wall five foot and a half, so consider that if you're going to get these twenty three and three. -fourth tile Wow I'll have to remember that math for the future is a great design element you know if it doesn't fit of course you need to cut the edges on both sides balance it properly because in this situation if we go let's say this tie was a little too long and i started with full pieces there and this side has all the cuts it would start to look a little weird so you really want to balance it out but you can see my center line travels through both tiles because that's the true core eve n though the tip of the W got offset anyway that's just a little tip let's keep playing around with the sticky and of course the secret here to doing this is to get some of these tiles into play first so what? don't you want to go too?
Far from filling in all the little bits until you actually have your pattern laid out visually, it's very easy to make a mistake when you're doing this, so we want to start filling in all of these gaps, okay, let's enter the next few rows. at least here this tile is really against the wall and against the counter it's not going anywhere so we just have to continue our pattern now send it nice and tight take your spacer right there one down here and one here . Now I know that this particular one, the adhesive will do most of the work, but especially for now, in the early stages, we want to be very careful.
Now one of the benefits of using an adhesive here instead of cement is that it cleans up much easier. sponge tomorrow an d wipe off all this extra adhesive you can wet it and it will wipe off and then you can grab it very easily without getting too much of that residue stuck between the tiles ok here we go we'll go to the other side again I've mentioned how much I'm love the max style so the reason i chose this tile is because i was really looking for something with a little punch, something with a bit of drama, well i definitely found these deep rich colors. it's just that i don't like to paint my bathrooms a dark color if i can get away with it, especially in a room with no window, so this allows me to keep my walls even though this is a slightly lighter light gray and then put all my drama on the short walls on both ends which make the whole thing really very pretty ok matt let's put the wet side in because the wet side does a pretty good job of cutting these edges. series of triangles now for this particular project If we are going to use unsanded grout which is pretty much needed anytime you have such a thin grout line there is now an option that they have grouts that have a polymer additive that helps dry very fast and it's an unsanded grout like well but it's a little bit different and then you really have to be able to work fast and in this situation I don't think I want to be rushed so I'll be much happier working a little slower with a standard grout and giving it time to dry properly look and see what I'm going to do is throw a screw in here just to hold the weight so it doesn't slide under the weight as I'm building the tile so one of the ways we're going to save material is i'm not going to fill this area much because it's behind the mirror but i need to be careful with this inline memory on this side now if i cut this tile in the middle ad put it up it's too short so what I'm going to do instead is just fi finish stacking them up to the ceiling here we go one of these tubs with this type of trout says about 20 to 25 square feet it's designed primarily for the kitchen backsplash which averages 18 in a weird way so we're going to get all of that and move on here so what I'm going to do is and that's why I'm cheating right now so now I'm dropping my laser line into my corners to help me stay in one position now when you're using a wet saw to make the cuts it ends up with the same effect as if I were cutting and polishing the stone in the same movement, so I can cut in both directions.
I can actually line this up on the ceiling not the adhesive with my grout line and then I make my mark on my game stone here ok that represents where the stone ends and then I just take my square draw that line with my marker and I'll have that stone cut out for me and then I'll finish all the exposed area up here in line with these cut lines it'll look really cool. help me with this and see how it ends up we really want to make sure that as we go along we always set that 90 degree corner and if it goes off a bit make a little adjustment ok that's really good then measure the cutting is always easy measure on the long side so you put the tape on press it against the ceiling right where the tile will end you can take your measurement it reads 15 and a half you translate that information correctly make our mark then double check holding back is fine and make sure you have an eighth more maybe even two is maybe maybe a full quarter there just put the difference in that grip line on the ceiling edit the woman she's good so i'm gonna take my triangle now i'm going to draw the line i want to cut into the stone so i don't accidentally cut it very well this is how you do it so you always end up getting exactly what you want always make your line on the outside rior of the actual stone you want to keep you can cut that mark perfectly every time there's my next three that's what we're doing around the box we're actually using one with a porcelain drill bit and that gives the ability to cut all these fancy little shapes that we want to have as snug to the box as possible so that the lamp actually mounts on top of that and we don't have any visible holes so it looks like it's going to work really well here's this stone here yeah there it is proof that keeping everything as square or worse i can find the pattern after the fact like i said it's all behind the mirror so i'm not worried about that piece right there when you're filling a space like that instead of trying to put the adhesive on the wall first you can always put it directly on the tile it's ok you'll just have to be a little careful you don't want to leave too much there and it will squeeze you like I said this is not a wet area so 90% coverage is not necessary, just make sure you put enough for it to work. ally sticks to the lerigot that's what I'm looking for ok so I'm just putting a couple of my leftover pieces near the top because I need to have stone under my lamp ok let's put everything so nice and al flush if you're going to put the glue on the tile first make sure it's good and rinse well squeeze it all together and then you can open it up when you're done create that big gap there we go once you've got it squeezed good and tight like this it will hold up really well oh let's give a little extra support you're going to use the screw head show them a little secret here coming at an angle here right under my screw head it actually picks up the weight it'll actually pull it really well and tight so the next piece goes here in the pattern and then here so I really want to measure from here to that ceiling this is one of these situations where we're not all square so my tile is a 45 perfect my pattern is perfect I end up with a zero to hero space here and I don't want that to show so I'm actually going to crop this angle it's closing in a little bit once I've cut it then I'll have my length Hard to tell exactly what your measurements are in some situations, especially these inside corners, so I think it's seventeen and a half.
I am going to cut it in seventeen and five eighths and I can bring similar measurements. It would lean down. I was actually here mark where I want to cut so here we are we have this situation on top and you have two options to do this kind of thing what we're going to do we're going to take our pattern that's our pattern okay and they're the ones that they're on the counter put on our outline and then we're going to measure we're going to measure the bottom of that line there and that one goes into four and three eight four and we just put our tile together and then we draw our line let's start with four and a half on the markfrom the corner and then we'll take our straight edge across both stones at once that way when you cut this you'll end up a nice straight line if you measure each of these individually you're going to mess up that joint and it will show when you get in an area like This one, you can actually take three, four, or five stones all in the pattern, measure the other side, draw the straight line, and cut all those cuts at the same time, which will really speed up the process and give you a perfect result. cut, but more importantly, and make sure the grain of the tile goes in the right direction; if you're not careful just use a trim, you'll end up with a grain always in the same direction, it always looks funny from a distance it's amazing how a small detail like the grain of that stone can make such a big difference.
You are very careful with the corners of the drywall because they are not going to be perfectly 90. I like to throw a small amount of adhesive in the middle. of the stone to be able to bullet Once I move it and move it, everything will look nice and smooth, there we go, it will look pretty good now, listen, I did not understand that this is not a complete wall, finishing the wall is simple, but I just wanted to make sure I was not going to have a hard time not having enough stone so I have to cut a hole in the wall here anyway because I'm going to bring this feed in here for my heated mirror so next thing I draw everything what we are going to do let it dry and then we'll shred it too so stay tuned because we're going to take this in this video because we're going to show some tips and tricks for doing that kind of thing and how you can end up nice a look and if you like this kind of content be sure to subscribe to the channel don't forget if you're interested in learning a lot about renovations and have some big projects coming up we have a member program so hit the join button see I make myself much more available today for people who are looking to get a lot of information have questions about their own projects so see you in a couple of hours or in your case just a few seconds you're back on the grout now here's a special message to everyone out there seeing this. wall doing what the heck we're going to be hanging a huge mirror here and I need access to this cord because this is my scare line for my low voltage wire that goes to the heating system behind my mirror so it doesn't fog up so the la I actually could have installed the mirror first and actually tiled around it but that would look a bit ridiculous and it's easier to work this way this way I can keep my lines perfect I can fill all my gaps and I'm going to have a really perfect look when finished that's why i did what i did no need to tile here i needed to have this hole so since it's not going to be a perfect finish wall it doesn't matter what i do it's just the shape i shoot it anyway we've been in for a few hours and the glue is dry one of the benefits of using a high performance adhesive is you can grow at the end of the day without delay just ryan weird ok gen erally I take them out and then put them away, put them back in the package they came from, have a pair of pliers handy if any of them are giving you any trouble because they're actually embedded. a little bit of adhesive then you can just pull them off like this no big deal the process here is pull the plastics off wash them make sure we don't have any adhesive on the surface or stuck in the corners and then we go put our grout in and wait about five or ten minutes and then we'll wash it right away then we'll see what it looks like on the right one of the benefits of the dowel is that all the tiles are already 45 degree so all you have what to do is go straight up and down the straight left and right clarkey you have all your angles proper tiptoe time don't forget that one of the advantages of having all your finished painting which is about two days old is that you can wash off the grout as part of the process without damaging the walls one of the reasons the tile guy is the only one to get into the construction of his new house before the other floor guy arrives, so he gets tile after the painter, which which is awesome and of course because this is a 1/8 grout line or sorry 1/16 we are using a non-sand path the gaps will be too small for the growing sand to work now i am going to end up on my roof with the concave part of the float the goal here is to leave a little bit of cream filling that gap and then I'm going to use a translucent or clear silicone on top so you don't have an ugly silicone line here we go so you really want to make sure of filling all the little gaps in there and you're using that process I just found when you had weight silicone on a white ceiling it looks like it doesn't rash because the ceiling is flat the silicone has a shiny weight so use clear silicone instead of white it just gives it a better look it makes the tile work like the star and doesn't draw attention to itself it's fun you know next you know OCD on this truth is I just need to grow but a perimeter stand a foot on the other side of this thing so you'll always have a good view so when you're done make sure you clean it up with the growth layer as best you can.
Could it be much easier to wash the towel afterwards? It's obviously not a complete tutorial on how to grow it, but you'd like to see one. We will have a link to a video in the description below. how to grow we did it in a tub shower surround sound great video lots of info in there if your learning how to do all these things for the first time not once then they grow when you mix it thick like i just did it has a benefit to you. you can look right away if you're careful, only one swipe if you have w You've learned it more than once, you're going to see all the dye out of the mix and it won't be the color you thought it was supposed to be right now that we're washing , there are still a couple of things we have to do. we need a quality check so you take a little drop of your goat left over from your bucket and you really want to go through this really small area focus real hard and don't just look down get down and get right under look here we see good so which just takes this a little bit just blend it out there's one there leave it messy here we go ok now I'm just letting it sit for a few minutes to set it up and then we'll come back and go clean and the reason why you do it like this it's ugly so you can find out later that nothing worse than coming back and saying oh I missed a bump because then you're going to have to sand it down and score it, it's just a lot of work so leave it messy. in five minutes wipe it off and then when all the grout is nice and dry on the surface you can go back to Go with your clear silicone and caulk all four edges any time you change a surface plane you want to add a little silicone and When everything is finished, your backsplash will be ready.
I tell her to always hang her mirror. very human in here for some reason it always seems to be raining when we're doing some amazing Groucho so we're going to bring a fan in here and blow this up for a book ten fifty ms dry the surface so we can show you how to finish this so in todays video i am installing a huge mirror on a tiled wall the nice thing about this is the fact that it will have a heating system behind it so it will never get fogged up from using a shower so really all you need is Let everyone know that you already know you can check it out on Amazon.
We have our link in the description. You can buy one there and some painters stick on a couple measuring and cutting tools. It's not that complicated. I'm going to throw a piece of tape on the back of my mirror because yeah I want to get all my measurements ok I put my mirror on my counter and I can measure my headroom to the ceiling I'm 23 inches I also have a light which will go in here so I want to double check if I split the difference 11 in half it's a little too close so I'm going to go with a 12 inch clearance on top which makes a 11 inch clearance at the bottom so I'm going to go +11 inches from where I'm sitting right and my mirror comes with these two hangers and what we're going to do is just use a simple oil plug system. a product and now the trick here is to center it so what i want to do is put a measurement on my mirrors 48 mark my center on the mirror and i want to measure my wall it will be 68 and a half thats 34 and a quarter and i recommend writing each of your numbers as you go, now I know that the center line is roughly below Under this center of this box because we centered that as well, so 34 and a quarter we're going to go here.
I'm going to mark my center line and there we go, so that will be my center line. I measure left and right from well. now i'm going to physically line up my centerline number with a mirror pretty much where it's perfect and i'm going to take some tape now place it on the wall right above my limbs ok you know i'm going to be over 11 inches from this it's going to be the top of the mirror and that's what we want the top of the mirror mark plus 11 inches ok now we're going to measure down each side because we don't know if the mirror brackets are actually hanging level, so on the right hand side it's 4 inches on this side it's a little more so 4 inches translates here because we're going to flip it over this will be the height of where I would put my hole and here I'll be measured down 4 inches and a little now I actually have no idea why I have a laser level involved with this now once again we're going to be working on far center lines to measure our locations here so I put my tape measure there it's twenty two and three eighths so i'm going to measure from here twenty two and three eighths to there that's twenty two and a quarter that's why it's important to do this now at the end of the day if your measurements are off 32 of an inch or so it's not the end of the world okay here we go let's put this on low speed and in a hammer drill cause i don't like messing around yeah i'm going to burn the bed a little early but i like to get things done look at that and that's a perfect spot here for years people have been telling me i know you can't use a glass and tile drill bit on the highest peas with a hammer drill i mean why doesn't it work it's fast yes it's a little loud but it bothers me jen i'm wearing ear protection here we go now i use a quarter inch quarter inch glass and tile drill bit and this one here is from Bosch it's pretty decent it has a little life left in it we're going to use it to hang a door glass in our shower then here we go now i buy my plastic dowels with the screws and the same kit so i know they will work they have a nice big head on them it will clip on that no problem ok tape measure i love it this is my hammer rubber as far as depth you just need to have enough clearance between the back of the screw head and the tile for this to make it snug and it will help hold the mirror in place so don't let it hang down too much , okay, now because we are doing videos here, I still have to install my sink on my faucet and if I mount it. mirror first it's going to be really hard to do that job so let's just put this aside for a second finish the plumbing we'll finish this video right now okay so our electrical inspector came by yesterday poked his head in real quick it took a look check the mat space on the floor and everything is in line with what it's supposed to be so he approx.
He loved the installation, he asked me an interesting question, although he did ask me if the thermostat also had a sensor wire, so I wasn't sure, I opened the box and sure enough, there were now installation instructions. a second sensor but he advised me since the most common failure is the sensor if you have a second install it ahead of time in case the first fails then you can switch the wiring in the box to the second sensor so we run that second line and now both are installed we are ready to lay our flooring so here we go now luxury vinyl plank is unlike the ultimate lower cost plague that is really easy to score and tear with a knife ok? agreement? we're going to demonstrate three different cutting techniques for you well actually one two three yeah we're going to show you five different tools you can cut these things with today so you know to use what you have available at home or you might choose to go or ut and invest in something if you're going to be doing a lot of flooring now traditionally this type of flooring is what I would call entry level installation because it's just measuring the right cut all you have to do is mark and go ahead and install it vinyl the floors don't expand in heat and humidity I'm so tired of hearing that all over the industry and then this is going to be controversial because uh when the first one came out the advice was just to tell everyone when they asked about it to deal with it like laminate. but it is not like laminate flooring, the reality is that thisproduct has an expansion of something ridiculous like less than 1/2 of 1%, so in my world it's zero expansion because I don't have temperature fluctuations that are going to cause those kinds of things to happen even though I'm heating the floor.
I'm not worried about this buckling, so we'll install it flush against the wall today. We will not use clips. We will not use spacers. We won't get weird. about that we're just going to cut and measure how i see it fits all we do is align we've got a tab and a groove we're going to make sure that the groove is always facing out it's much easier to install that way okay and this is our waterline and we're just going to mark with a marker where that line is and then I'm going to get an idea if I cut the first inch to the right you don't even need a tape measure for these people just go ahead and do it now the most easy to cut this is actually with a jigsaw and you just put it on a little platform and you can cut it with no problem lemme give it to matt matt is helping me today ok now on to the next board we want to stagger our joints , okay so we're going to want the next joint to be a foot away so I'm actually going to take a foot off this table because we're going to demonstrate the technique of scoring and ch Click here and see how well this works or doesn't work on the deluxe vinyl just use your little squares and it's nice to have a guide for your knife so you can't accidentally cut your thumb and the trick here is flip it over and then put pressure on, okay, no, I'm just giving you an idea here that gives you a decent advantage, right?
No one will complain about that and it can be quite useful, but if you're not really strong you might find it difficult and I'll keep it handy for a bit later. it's really simple now the next piece we're going to adjust it so we can measure now if you've been following this series from the beginning you know we put this orange mat and this floor piece right at the beginning to set the height of our transition our little metal edge coming out of the tile and the secret here is you want to cut the floor under the metal into the stone so we're not cutting here. you're cutting behind it because it's going to slide right t under it so we just set that up for one measurement slide the floor up to the shower pan and then back it out about an eighth of an inch because you don't want this when you're walking around rubbing against this when we're done we'll add a bead of silicone to hold everything in place but I'd rather now this is how we'll do the same thing here we're just going to measure, make a mark there because that's where the wall is. is behind this dream and I'll just take my trusty little square and draw my lines send this to this here we go now pass it to Matt cut the puzzle and he'll show you how well it cut okay no no the easiest way to put this together floor just to put it at an angle and then slide it in and then it sits in that groove very easily okay just below where we have it there not because we want to stagger the floor. like to go with at least three panels so that's about one third the next we're going to go about half the distance so I can lay this back and then you measure this which ends up being the mark where you're going to cut to that the cut is against the end of our tray and that's where the silicone goes here we go there you go you just have to place it in the slot and place it here is my next piece over here here is my group sitting I'm going to turn it over put where it goes and then i get a mark and i'm going to mark that somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 inch sigh just because rooms are never square and that will make life easier now here just set the end to nicely, when you're cutting around the toilet flange you really want the flooring to fit as snug to the flange as possible the best way to do this is to measure a midpoint just based on this line here so that's for the flanges on my toilet and I'm just going to put a mark there now this is all going to be under the to Ilet so you don't have to worry at this point and also come up here okay and come over here where it's flush in the front and this mark where that is flange, not the toilet flange, it's about seven inches in diameter, so I can go. line to line dial my three and a half and that becomes a pivot point so what I do is put my knuckle on the pivot point reach out with my marker okay find my spot and you will find that this works pretty good most of the time okay here we go take the puzzle slice relative to that pickle somewhere in the middle it'll probably work great that's funny man pick a line okay there we go, we go into the groove, it just clicks into place now.
This is one of these situations if life doesn't treat you kindly and cut it short most cases when you are adding new flooring to your home the toilet flange will be too low for a proper toilet installation and you will be adding a Flange extension ring, some sort of build up system, so you'll have to chisel away the floor to expose all of the vinyl on the ring. It's amazing to work with him. It's easier than with wood. having the basic old fashioned tools is really nice so now we're going to measure a small piece to fill in at the end and it's very small here we go again take 1/8 off a quarter now just for fun let's show you what it is trying to cut this with the score and snap technique that's a lot of work and that's dangerous Oops now I'm going to show you a couple of other tools that were invented to make life easier ok I'll put a dummy line in here and then I'll do have matt show the world we have two different thieves floor cutters here one is a commercial unit that i have used a lot for many years and it was about $400 and william wow that unit i dont know tens of thousands of feet of flooring with those others when n I learned it on amazon not too long ago we actually did a special video demonstrating how good it was perfect for homeowner if you're just doing one or two rooms with 60 bucks from the same company : a little system but it works just a little more demanding manually but it's a lot easier than ticking the snap here we go good you put the ticking to the far right so it works right han so that's the $ tool 60 which cuts and works but it's a lot easier with the good one and now my old $400 tool was easy so here we have to finish translating this information for the rest of this you can use your Square and just measure the gap .
I've got about two inches here, but two inches in it's there and then we'll finish drawing this little circle, okay, we'll send it to the puzzle, okay, here we go. I'm going to get a few more pieces here for all these final pieces that c but I keep them flipped and I like to save them for reference to fill my rows if I can use it all so this will be a perfect opportunity to use this piece right now , here we go. I'll get that cut so there are two basic theories on how to install this flooring one you put the piece down you bring the next piece but you put the back end right coming shy of the rest of the floor and that helps make sure that that joint there it's locked ok and then you have to lift everything together and then force it there you go that's a good joint the other way to do it just put your way together depending on the size of the room this could be easier could be difficult to put your way together first and then lay the whole row at the same time my experience with this type of flooring is that it's almost impossible anyone will find that with vinyl it's too flexible with laminate flooring you can get away with it but with vinyl it seems to be too difficult to work with at unless he has two or three people working with him so i like to get my butt off alright alright now the truth is the first two rows are the hardest once you you can get to the other side of the floor then it's in a position where it can lift and break so for everyone who doesn't have a table saw you can still use this if you have a jigsaw they can cut flooring they can cut whatever, this is the technique I use all the time.
Any time you hold the saw still and run the floor through the blade here we go Oh perfect every time and of course you can always use a chop saw to cut through just about anything if it's plugged in we have power here now very sharp grip Ok Depending on where you are and what situation you are in, you may already have a door installed. This is a new build for me. When I'm doing new construction with vinyl flooring. tight I don't have to cut around the trim I don't have to use caulk my door jamb sits right on top of the floor and that's perfect like I said I'm not afraid of expansion shrinkage because it's not going to happen it's ok nice piece of vinyl love these ends they just snap into place there we go. this floor is well finished so now i've shown you how to install the floor and heating system but we're not done yet because every time you do a project like this you have to trim it too so I'm going to quickly show you my favorite ways to install baseboards and so that they do not have a lot of touch-up work.
It's incredibly fast. I am going to show you another system for fixing the toilet flange to adjust the height of your toilet flange is part of your floor installation if you don't consider that then you will have a big mess trying to install your toilet and it will not seal properly as well so before i show you all my finishing tips and tricks i just want to give a shout out to mohawk flooring company zenith flooring is a actually supplied the flooring for this project and they are an online flooring supplier so they can connect online.
I'll put the link in the description below and you can check them out. They can give flooring samples for free. I think they are delivered to your house. to make sure you get the right colors and textures they have the entire line of luxury vinyl products so if you are having a hard time finding a good quality vinyl in your area this is definitely a resource I would recommend for anyone who is made the floor before you know it in a bathroom especially half the job is putting the floor down the other half is finishing it all so I'm going to share with you my tips and tricks today this is just a skirting MDF, it comes with a primer it really only needs one coat of paint finished, but if you use a nail gun to glue it down, you'll have to do all sorts of patching on everything else and it will drive you absolutely crazy because it will have to be removed. a compressor and fire on the nails and then you have a pat putty on the nails if you use this adhesive here and it's just what it says it's no more nails that product right there it's just an adhesive to install the trigger ok are you ready to this now? your trim installed and if you are in a hurry and want to finish the product quickly get this product this is the quick dry alex ok this is not your typical door and window. you can paint it this is twenty minutes the way you hint at it is just put an angle on the tip and then just pull it fill the holes take a wet sponge and then it's done twenty minutes from now i can go and start painting it will take me about 20 minutes to trim the whole room so if I start in one corner when I'm done trimming I just pick up my brush and have to finish painting and then I'm done and when you're done with your paint job you can put some white silicone pure go to the inside corners and just fill in the corners and you're done now for the plumbing we're going to use what's called a pipe flange cover this is a split pipe flange cover and this is in case you already have one done you have your plumbing run if this is copper and you already have a shut off valve on top of this you can't just slide this over the top because that is exactly the diameter of the pipe and it looks very b onito but yeah if you already have your shut off valve is there and use shark bite for this reason it's that simple ok here we go then this split pipe flange is the solution for you it has a little crease and you will see it and the chrome really split and you can wrap it around your pipe and put the split in the back so no one will see it and have a perfect decorative finish in seconds we don't need it because the toilet lift will have the right fit for there and then the next trick will save you a ton of time and more than once this will save you from a flood when you were working in the trades callback number one was for leaky toilets.
I can't even tell you how many hundreds and hundreds of toilets oh it's crazy and these are professional plumbers and sales and stuff but they're all cheap but since this is your house you're not going to cheat here's a solution that it will work great for you ok this comes with a little bolt extension pack here this is a pvc ring it's the same thing the material youthe toilet flange is done now it's ok and has the same holes lined up here. It works perfect for placing the bolts. All right, put the extra long bolts in place.
Line them up so there's something parallel here. Okay, before. you put this ring on you put this gasket seal on top this is where everybody misses it i've seen so many plumbers come and they'll try to use silicone or something else it always fails amazing no fail fails no we're gonna stick this ring on and let's go to pull it almost to the extreme because you wanted to have a little flex with this okay no at this point you can take screws and screw this flange down that's definitely one option and then the other what you do is you it comes with these holes already made this is a rubber gasket for the toilet to sit on okay now this is awesome because it's made for situations like an old house if your toilet is here and your house is moving the winter there a little bit of movement here and there and the toilet can be tight like this and then here one day old houses like this the floor is constantly moving with this type of seal no matter what happens on top of the toilet this s e compresses then grows back to maintain its seal if you use wax and press that wax if your toilet moves around a bit you have broken the seal that water can seep into so this type of gasket is not perfect for the solution for older houses the secret you want to know is this yes the new ring has to be higher than the floor ok just an eighth of an inch ok it's yours you can't slide your square through the ring, it's too low, so get an extension. make sure you are three inches above the floor and then there are other extension packs for more dramatic situations that are a half inch and a quarter inch high and you can stack them together and they have more of those joints in it too but this is the situation, as long as you do this, put the toilet on the right, tighten with the bolts, everything will be fine and this is how you install the floor, you don't know how to put the toilet.
The back is the most important part of any flooring installation okay so in today's video guys we're going to install this beautiful stone sink you know now it doesn't have an overflow system so which requires special plumbing so stick with us we are also going to put in our faucet that goes along with th we are going to connect all the plumbing underneath so you can finish your bathroom vanity yourself so when you install the plumbing of the vanity sink there is really only one thing to worry about and that is aesthetics, how does it look? so what we've done is just take our center line that I've measured across put my framing box there and I'm going to mark my center line on my tape and I'm going to put a lot of tape now back right over that center line, Now what I do is place the sink on the counter knowing that I am in the center.
The kind of question is do I want to move forward or push back. The idea here is that this is our guest bathroom. It's really only designed for occasional use. Handwashing. Brush your teeth in the sink and then I can set it at this angle. I like that. I think I like it more aligned in the center of the hole. That sounds good to me. Well what I'm going to do is take my marker and just put a mark under the center of the location that I like and that will mark where I'm going to place my bit to drill my hole.
I also like the fact that this is pushed forward a little bit so that I'm not reaching the back of the counter and I'm actually going to draw a full circle for my drain, that's fine for the drill bit. I'm gonna need a working pilot. This is small enough for it to sit on. my holes because I have to drill from the top and bottom and I'm going to get into this in a minute and I'm going to need a couple of piss seriously I'm going to need this bad boy here this here now if you've never seen this before everything this sock is absolutely amazing, it will save your life every time you have to solve a problem, this is the kind of tool you want to have around you.
So all these bits have self feed tips and the trick is I want to drill a hole in the top and a hole in the bottom that are different thicknesses and we'll get into the assembly and the reason in a minute let me just drill my pilot hole through wood so you have all this and i'm just dealing with pine so this is really so here's my sink drain assembly sir please explain how this works in a second this is actually the drain and this the part threads on nicely so we're going to set this aside for a minute and here are my washers now this cardboard ring is pretty vital this is the piece that goes on the bottom okay and this is what causes the compression of this gasket in the bottom of my stone sink ok that cardboard ring is what transfers that pressure to this and i will explain if i just had this here without the cardboard ring is it threaded ?
It's not coming straight, it's actually at an angle and so there's going to be more pressure at this point, then there's at the back, there's a gap, and so when you do it under pressure, it actually causes the joint to bend like this , it's fine, and when the gasket bends under pressure, it leaks. What this cardboard ring does is what it creates. an environment where there's no friction there's just pressure so you're not binding the rubber when you squeeze so if you could throw this away and think about this unusually useless gasket you're making a huge mistake you're going to get yourself into a lot of problem so keep it handy ok this white foam thing again it's not packaged it's actually the gasket it compresses almost to nothing ok I just have to mix a little worm ok so what we're going to use here, yikes!
Pipe Joint Compound Okay well this isn't old but one of those lasted you a long time but the point is this teflon tape is more of a lubricant it's a sealant so what you do is you always go back so you feel like it clicks and then roll forward so it doesn't cross the thread and tighten it right there good to look at ok you can get rid of the excess there we go crap i missed a big surprise huh , so now we have our assembly all set. we just slide it into the sink okay up to here and then we want to put the washer this part facing the sink the flat part facing the washer okay and we're going to try to slide it into position as best as we can before we get there squeezing everything right, this is just a giant nut ok to attach this drain i'm just going to put my screwdriver in the overflow section which doesn't matter ok this sink doesn't have one here we go i'm just going to take this up so that fit nice and tight you know that's the hardest I can do it personally no I can have my key Matt okay here we go now this is really the only chance you're going to get this tight so it's not the time be shy now since we are dealing with two together when you put all your effort in Get into it then you know you are done if you don't have a lot of upper body strength you can get a socket wrench its a much longer bench you have a lot more leverage ok this isnt the part thats hard to hold up its not hard to press that rubber joint its where you need strength so have some upper body strength or use a longer pair of pliers or a socket wrench to really get a good grip on it, to be honest with you if your wrench was three inches longer that almost doubles its strength it's a little crazy but that's the power of the leverage this is a diamond we'll put this aside and get ready because what we need to do is drill a hole in our countertop which is wide enough for this whole assembly to sit just flush it's two and a quarter inches wide wide so that's why I grabbed the drill which is two and a half inches wide and what we're going to do is drill all the way through this bad boy because we don't have any connection n here that attaches it to the counter other than gravity and the bottom part ior of the stone and we'll just install it with silicone believe it or not so I like to have a little file handy.
I actually keep this in my kit with my sauce just because when I'm drilling holes I'd like to make sure it's nice and sharp okay here we go we'll put this on normal drill and slow speed because there's a lot of torque here okay now I'm just starting to cut I'm going to go in reverse just a second and that makes sure I'm not causing splits that will rip my counter now we're good to go and just a little bit of rotation helps make the hole just a hair bigger than the bit and it helps keep it from getting hot ok now instead of going through the other side i know a soft wood will split and make a mess that's why i pre-drilled the hole i'm going to see from below now finish this hole from here below this faucet is a bit of a different scenario ario ok we also need to drill the hole for the faucet .
The standard faucet hole is one and a quarter, okay, but that's on top. Here's the other consideration: how thick are the threads now, this is a two-inch-thick countertop, okay, so when you take two inches. off of this i got to the last thread which means the hole on the bottom side needs to be wide enough for me to put this under which is my lock mechanism so if i want my lock mechanism to be at least connected for a few threads ok so then i want to make sure i drill down from the top to about an inch and a quarter and then go the other way to set my luck straight because i drilled all the way through.
I'm going to drill the hole under it first it's the bits that are already in the drill bit and we're just looking to advance about a half inch right there now the diameter of the pipe going into the hole is an inch and a quarter that's an inch and a quarter of the diameter of the part that's on top is three quarter inches so I'm using a drill bit to make my life easier that's an inch and a half and we're going to drill all the way through yeah and this one has a trend with the software number for these threads to get stuck, okay? if you wanted to go straight to put pressure in the middle of the drill behind you up from here if you're pushing by hand you're always going to be twisting so hold with this one but push from the top full of sawdust here as a result the threads already they don't pull so let's clean that one more time now should be enough to finish this oh beautiful ok let's put this here ok?
I'm going to connect them, it's important to remember that when you look at a faucet, the hot water goes in the riser and these lines are marked with red and blue stripes, okay, they also have a joint, so you squeeze me here. don't use a wrench ok we can throw this in here for a quarter turn maybe just make sure they're secure now most faucets have a gasket that goes right here at the base of the tower like this than make sure it is in place and we run one line and then the other ok that will work fine before we put that in place we want to drop the stone sink ok this is a situation we are going to use our clear structural silicone ok this its a new flexible cone i love this product i use it on all my wet areas all the time these tubes are amazing i buy them from my commercial supplier because i can change the tips right so when it fills up and dries i just change tip for a new tip and be back in brilliant business now look at the diameter of my Basin here, that's amazing.
I'm literally going to put a bead of silicone around the hole. I'll make sure any water that splashes out of the sink stays on the counter so I can take care of my maintenance and then I'll be gone. so just to help secure it in place right here goes everything yeah here we go so now we need to put our assembly lock set into the idea of ​​putting all of that over the sink base yeah that will work fine and then our locking ring is incredibly important especially in this situation when you're borrowing your own hole that hole isn't going to be perfectly flat we're going to set this up to lift it up and let me go back until we fill it click there , now we are going to tighten it. i know this is the point where we need to make sure the faucet is pointing directly in line with the dream ok now i'm going to hold it still while i turn these clamps no i don't have to over tighten here because we actually use the screwdriver to tighten the clamp ok on both sides great ok so here we are going to use the sponge to get some of this residual paint drywall compound out it looks thick not uncommon thanks on the show we are going to install these decorative caps alright and a couple of shark bite shuto ffs, now no little tip here, just use your wrench to secure your pipe while pushing your shirt with the valve,ok here we go ok here's a great little gizmo it's on the hinge and it actually fits around the ABS pipe not perfect but ok for creating a decorative cap around a drain pipe it will work in a pinch to close those ugly holes in an exposed area so the next process is to assemble the drain it's a doddle really what we're going to do. is we're just going to set our height now this piece of pipe coming out of this wall is not taped ok it's just there to catch any possible sewer gas in the middle of construction and we want to make sure that when you're measuring it's just it has a lesser slope one degree level okay hold this here and let's look at the dimension from the counter to the bottom here and that represents the total rise that we have to have in our plumbing okay that's nine and a half inches this is the fit goes one and another half pipe to an inside and a quarter here which is almost every vanity drain in the world is one and a quarter kitchen sink drains are one and a half so when you buy this fitting make sure you buy the 1 and a half by one and a quarter because the kitchen pieces are one and a half by one and a half and that will cause problems so for the bathrooms one and a half by one and a quarter and I can be as tall or as short as it is or, so I have a little bit of movement here, so just to make sure I have flexibility, I'm going to start in the middle, so what did I say? an id on it and then a ninety over here okay boom over here and i'll set it to nine and a half so nine and a half is my total pipe right up to this ridge so i grab my mic i mean you could simplify this a little.
I'm taking the full rise that I need which is basically nine and a half inches okay I come here and I'm going to measure from this ridge right here it's the pipe inserts on the inside two and a half gives me a seven pipe inches so we're going to cut that out and install it so my plan here is to install this pipe. back and then you'll see it will work fine ok but i want to run the pipe directly to the back wall and then back so it's away from the water supply lines after i install this not sure what i'm going to to do for the front of this i might end up putting a piece of one by twelve pine and make a little box just to encapsulate all of this so it's all hidden we'll wait and see what i decide later just a word of caution when i'm looking with your abs glue is a solvent based over vinyl flooring they don't get along so be careful now let's take all this assembly I'm going to put this together now this p- trap comes with a cleanout it's an emergency access hatch here this is great if you're washing your hands and you lose e your ring is ok it should get stuck in the p trap and then you can open this over a bucket and be able to salvage your ring why do we use them in these types of areas because you have we access we might as well keep access wraps a little teflon tape around those threads just three more times and that helps ensure they have a perfect seal now these are all plastic fittings so when using a key just skip a little touch if it's too tight will end up making things twist and warp like an oval and you'll end up causing a leak so watch out for that ok let's go with the same with the other color get some nice runs in there because it's going to act as a lubricant and a sealant and we're going to go back right away okay here we go we're going to put some glue on the fitting and on the pipe because what we're doing is we actually melt both pieces of this ABS and then we glue them on this is how you do it correctly you don't need a lot to make this work just enough to make it look like it got wet ok now we have all of that.
Push together, let's slide that over the top, and then tighten this ring. Remember that the piece of pipe you are connecting this to was also laid in a clockwise direction. When you are done tighten it. well yeah i sent my son to the store when he gets back he'll have a couple more elbows for me we'll hook up the rest of that pipe real quick and then it's done so here's our mirror and this is our lovely little pad mirror for the heating wires this is a peel and stick scenario i wish it was easier to get started but here we go we really want to line this up relatively in the middle we're going to peel the rest of that the best part of this system is this p eel and stick and now our wiring is connected to our light so it's guaranteed not to fog up we're going to put the link in the description how you can get in touch with these products they're amazing all we have to do we're going to open these little rings here and fill it in for a minute or two until you find the mounting locations wait and that side is fine so there's just one other thing I want to try and do and this may seem like a crazy, but when you have a mirror, let's be that big. hang on two screws it's terribly wobbly so what I'm going to suggest is you take some double sided tape and put it on the back of the mirror and then remove that extra sign and we're going to use a little bit of adhesive and attach it to the stone here we go so you have to remember that because we're on these two screws if you just pull the top of the wall just a little bit then it will change the height of the mirror have you pull the top and then let the bottom push that tape i into the wall ok its not taking all the weight now but it will just hold it in position so now those screws are holding the weight and not coming off wobble ok the only thing left to do now is hook up the water supply lines and listen up most of these braided faucets have a gasket inside so you don't have to over tighten with a wrench just tighten with the fingers put the blue supply line on the right hand side as soon as you can figure out where it goes hello Oh that's typical.
I made a rookie mistake. I bought the Shark bikes. I made sure it looked right, but it didn't check the package. Every time you're at the hardware store. they never put it in the right place so what i was trying to hook up was a quarter inch supply line that is for fridges only. I needed a 3/8 so I stole the one from the toilet. I'll finish this now that I have it. go back to the store now to buy something for the toilet supply line which I'm doing a little more now we can go back and hook this up.
I always always always always always double check. I can't believe he did it. It's been a while since I didn't get the right accessory, but it happens, okay, here we go. now put the hot on wed then we'll put the wrench in here a couple of turns just to make sure we embed that joint in the line okay now for the drain plug this threads into the bottom of the drain and it's faster , ok, how is this? little flange joint here so you sit on top again go counterclockwise until you feel it's sitting there that's the spot and that's what I did okay and then we have a drain the danger of this and this type of bowl is because there is no overflow if you do this and fill it up don't leave the room well the world of toilets hasn't really changed much in the last I don't know 70 years except for the body design style so when you're looking for your toilet you want to have to take a look at a couple of options that really separate the men from the guys in this business one of them being a great dual flush water conservation right there .
The other issue is if you have the ability to move a large amount of content through the pipeline. you want to check that too and the other of course and this is my favorite soft close toilet seat i mean its such a simple investment just a few bucks and you can have the seat you can slam it but it never does any noise just oh it's beautiful I love my soft close seat anyway we're going to install it today we're going to do it over our vinyl flooring that floats on top of our heating system so what we have here is this little build the whole it comes with a foam gasket with the bolts already in place and then it comes with this teflon ring ok and it sits right there like this and then on top of that you put this huge foam gasket now the reason I'm using this. instead of wax it is because this house is very old d and has a lot of movement throughout the different seasons so if I have any movement on this floor over time I need to have a joint that is under compression that during movement will return to grow and that's ok this compresses and will grow back so if the toilet ends up moving around a bit during the four seasons that won't be a concern, it will self seal all year round. wait a minute so this is the perfect type of flange cover to use if you have an older house like ours and we're going to have a lot of time so no more ado let's bring on the toilet here we'll show you a couple of simple tips and tricks for installing them, so just so you understand when it comes to a one piece toilet with this slim design you're going to have to have a tool that sits on the bolts and then you can tighten so you know Here's another great example.
I have my crescent wr. ench with the detachable prongs this is an amazing tool it comes in handy we will be using it for the install today I also like the fact that the back is raised so I have room for my water supply line. room to go in and behind let's get this spinning real quick so one of the main benefits of a one piece toilet is the fact that you don't have extra contact between the tank and the bowl usually those areas are like a very common place where water drips and leaks so you don't have to take that extra risk and it makes it really easy to clean and you don't have a lot of places where surface dirt can collect on that kind of thing So what? what are we going to do?
Because we are using the rubber gasket instead of the wax. In fact, we can tilt it, slide it back, and wax it into place. You have to lay it down well and flush well and at this point the toilet should be on the floor that's perfect because what you want to know is you need compression if this is touching the floor and sitting there and it's not moving there is no compression you need to build its ring a little more this is perfect so the idea of ​​installing is the same as a normal toilet you have you go up this little brass plate and put it on there and then you have to reach in and put the nut behind the toilet and just tighten it until it is loose.
I'm going to slide this over the top of the ball. that a ratchet right here you're in a lot of trouble so we're pretty solid here we're going to do your part with that too look you can see here this side is a lot lower and yeah so this is the thing I don't tighten to the point where you can't move it anymore just adjust it so the ratchet works go to the other side and now we'll tighten that side until the toilet is at a new level so I've been sitting here this ratchet for almost two minutes tightening This, there is so much limitation on th movement, but the reality is that everyone who installs one of these one piece snapped it without a ratchet system.
You just can't get enough. You can't get enough strength. time to install the seat on the toilet seat let's talk about that for a second this is not a standard seat you can't just go to the store and buy one this is not a basic elongated or around this is specific to all layout here so make sure when you buy your toilet if you want soft wear buy it as part of the package or you will get really frustrated that you won't be able to just go to the store and buy one after install system here is very standard for a soft clothes, just take these screws out a little bit and you've put the toilet on and everything we were over here is fine, everything clicks into place, you can see there's a lot of movement in here so what? what you want to do is put that down and then maneuver your seat so that you can once it finds its happy place put it back up push your two pins in here now push them in again ok you know this particular manufacturer has a decorative cover because it is somewhat visible when the seat is on. stainless steel, this to cover this, okay, and you can install it, and that's just as good as doing it on the toilet seat, but at the same time, okay, that's it, yeah look at how the soft clothesline is amazing, that's how you don't do anyone. more in the house in the middle of the night yeah okay now the sides are really interesting they have this really nice snap on cover i was over the side to close the access point ah it's a little tricky you see these rings these are designed these four corners clamped to the edges of the groove here and then this actually fits that piece they're happeninga lot of stuff here but the idea is you're reaching the back again it seems like a lot of work but shelter I didn't invent a better snap fit system but you just take your jack you snap it into position and there you have the hatch for the toilet.
Done you're a good step up okay Matt next is the water supply line now I love buying braided water supply lines ok they already come with a gasket in there so no assembly required extra, just reach behind the toilet seat. that and what you want to do is go back say you feel like clicking and then squeeze it, it's a plastic thread on a plastic fitting so you can cross the thread very easily if you're not careful. back there close your eyes and you can't see you can't see you feel no click but you felt you felt the grant is ok something like that and then you just squeeze with your fingers i didn't grip i wonder if it's easier from this side is because you're right , I'm right handed back and forth and a round thing yeah click Matt it should go this way you told me this way now that's what you said I'm just giving you some room for personal expression no , the information is good, you just did it.
I don't want to know what's up, how it works, he's turning it while we're doing it, okay, I'll tell you what, just give it to me for a second because I'm right handed and I can reach it with my right hand, it wasn't working because they put a factory accessory on it, it read that what you want is now but with that there is a blood squeeze you were probably doing everything right and at the same time having a bit of experience pays off when i felt that other adjustment. I'm like that's all I am usually it's just a plastic stem there you go you know any kind of pressure you can get with two fingers is going to be good you're not going to leak from that joint now just connect it to the supply. line and once you have one finger tight you can get another one a quarter turn with that bad boy ok that's unique no that's common yeah ok i just did.
I wouldn't qualify for all those moments where you were like, oh, you crossed them, but I taught you all my tricks up front, even though then you learn nothing. the hard way, you don't respect them. I'm just trying to figure out where in the world they would need that fixture, so where in the world do you think they have a different water supply line? this because the clothes are different yeah yeah yeah the idea is we wouldn't really know because the instructions that came on this toilet were in Chinese characters there were literally three pictures so one of the reasons we're doing this video i hardly made a video of the toilet but then we watched the instructions when wow we better go through this together just in case and i'm glad we did because we probably would have spent half a day in there trying to hook that water spider every night. you know the only other system that has to be installed is the double meat right now the tank has an obvious outline so it makes it really easy that's awesome oh yeah that's it that's the install so So in this video I'm going to show you how to install an amazing bathroom fixture.
Clean Electric Heated Towel Rack These bad boys look beautiful and functional amazing so they warm up your towels Are you coming out of the bathroom? Now when it comes to installing one of these, there are really only a couple of things you need to know. Hey, you have to give energy. I prefer to run a line directly from my light switch or my fan switch, depending on which has more space, and run it directly to this box. Now when it comes to air box location I find the easiest way to go is to figure out where. on your wall you want this before you put your drywall and then make sure there is a stud on one side placed on the feed side you want to make sure you measure to the center of your box mount to a brace between the studs, it's ready now, if you want to see that happen in depth, we've got that information in our how to make electricity for a bathroom video.
I'll put the link in the description below, basically you're getting power from your supply line, which is your light switch takes you to this location. There is no on/off switch with this product, it only works with this switch, so if you turn it on when you walk into the room with the lights or fan, you are ready now for easy application. This product comes with a ton of extra cable, and if you want you can try connecting it while sitting on the floor. and then you can try to tape all this wire into the box or you can do what I do just put the trash can in the room give me some slack and they cut the extra out of the way and there we go problem solved now that the box has lots of space now this little tool I have here is also a wire stripper so I'm going to find the right gauge for the wire and strip the coating off it and then it's all prepped and ready to wrap the only other thing we have to do and I can do it here same now because I have not turned on the circuit I ran a new circuit for this bathroom so I know I'm good to go.
You're not sure if you're going to set yourself up. You can grab one of these bad boys. Turn on the light. there's life power there and a blank can turn red which will be like don't touch this turn off the brake first then once it's ok we're in business we ain't done now before we can make our connections we've got to set the location for the whole mouse now on the back of this you'll see that each one of these legs here has a mounting pin that goes to the wall and the set screw to tighten it down so it's important that all these locations are perfect for the process for that it is not described in the documentation that comes with the product, oddly enough, not in the the box with the product comes as beautiful decorative plates these screws on this plate are aligned with the locations mounting bracket on the box ok and that's going to be our main location so we'll install the rest of this based on that in this kit it comes with three little caps that resemble a well flared thimble and pins a in that hole a lot of room to maneuver then the set screw is what tightens it all up so there's a little bit of mercy involved here and this one also has a thimble in it too same thing ok and they come together with the wood screws that they come in the wall so what we're going to do is just push all the wiring through the hole so we can temporarily mount the unit in this location we're going to take out a torpedo level put everything where it belongs ok here come on no even though this is magnetic because it's chrome it won't stick to it so you have to be a little careful here. i always prefer to trust my le vel and not my eyesight there we go thats my place whoo now you will realize if you watch the video where we run the cable i know there is a stud right behind these two because i based this location on that stud but what no I don't know where I should put that symbol so we'll use our pencil here and make some marks around the base location where they contact the wolf and I guarantee if you finish your paint job before you do this you'll need to do some touch up so don't be disappointed it will happen no matter what you do ok get all this out of the way and then we can put Oliver back together with all our brackets I hate Phillips hey how I hate him so much and that's why we're going to take our thimble now we're going to reverse it put the fat side against the wall Center on your pencil marks take your screw drive it straight through the puncture that drywall wow that was a lousy shot it's just a matter of screwing in these areas and it's amos ready to go I love Phillips screws.
This is where a good job of planning is a beautiful thing that will work great. Now, there are still two things we have to do. I'm going to back up a bit, don't worry if you lose a standard practice now is that these companies didn't put more in the package, but before you start taking the hardware completely out of the package, put it on the counter somewhere. Thank you Rory. here we go now we have a location to set up we need to run our cable through our board so we have a solid cable and one of these little fiber cables we'll just thread it in there twist it a few times ok we're going to use our little blue red cap twist it nice and tight so it comes loose over time we'll do all three connect white to white black to black ground to ground the ground just got this green and yellow you can't miss it there's no point in having an extra cable in there when you're done you shouldn't see any exposed cable buildings we need them RFK that's just one way you can be sure to know when you put this in the box you won't it's going to make contact with no other will you fix those wires in there like the ground wire, don't you want anything else to be in contact with that ground?
Fold everything up and push them in as deep as you can to make sure you have clearance. Twisting the wires is great. The way to make sure you're going to get a good connection gives the ability to rotate it and then pinch under there so nothing moves while you turn this on. it's easier to put this in and then through the wiring and just try to connect it to the bar and then try to glue it down just because these screws won't be accessible once the bars hang there that's ok always good make sure your screws be with your hands first get a couple of turns so you know they're not threaded the drills are powerful enough to drive them in there take a breath read it and take it off ok there we go just like we did when we just set it up to start let's feed all of this the wire inside that box is a bit stiff it's good we cut almost half before we start ok now here we go it's all over the only thing left to do is tighten these little set screws so let's get back here ok before i put any more i want to double check my level and press good because then i tighten that set screw it pushes it down and that's still perfect ct, also what I have to do now is keep a little bit. of pressure applied on these as I tighten them make sure they are tightened as close to the wall as possible it's all about patience sometimes it's a little fiddling around that will drive a person crazy but if you're patient even what the customers do damage to the wall you're working on try to do it this way the bottom of this almost always scratches the wall ok now we have it plugged into the wall basically but we still want to connect power to the switch like this stick with us for that and we'll show you how to do it. plug in the switch too if you like this kind of content make sure you subscribe to the channel don't forget to hit your notification bow so you see every time we upload a video you get a notification so you can see it in this package that came with these little plugs cheesy plastic and to be honest if you're trying to fish a wire somewhere in the wall and want to mount a box you're going to hurt everyone to get that. done if it's not going to be on wood and you want to try and install this with plastic I suggest you don't take the time cut the hole in the drywall block the wall and never use these because they know what happens so I'm going to put a towel here. peeked out of the shower or grabbed the towel and gi go yankee the whole damn thing will fly off the wall if you don't install it on wood just don't install it so what I have here is I have this white and black going to light fixture every light fixture you are going to replace in your house will have a black light and a light and if it is old it may have bent a lot right?
They boop and break very easily that's ok so if you're making a new lamp sometimes it's better to just cut off the old ends and flip the strippers over let's be honest strippers are a part of everyone's life electricians, here we go, now in this situation, our mounting box is on the wood as it should. b and we have drywall and we have nice thick porcelain tile so you'll find that the mounting screws for your blue fixture won't be long enough that's okay this bracket wants you to feel good and proud in here that's okay , because these screws here are actually mating with the plate and then these little nuts here ac I usually hold the fixture on the wall so knowing this I'm going to show you a little trick that I learned from a random electrician and that is to mount this in the area to keep this brass flush with that tile, which is key. for a good install the first thing we do is take our little tool here and we're going to grab the end of the ground wire and we're going to create a little hook on it, okay we're going to use that wire to hook the ground screw on our trim trim ok now we want to be careful here because that's my design that's my finish that's a good location it'sok so i'm going to bring it in from the other side pinch that again ok then tighten the screw ok no the other thing we want to do is salvage these little added nuts from the deal here set them aside for later a move that you need is from the wall which would be tight to this in the perfect setting to the surface of the face and that comes out to three quarters of an inch when you tighten this is three quarters of an inch from the back of the stone to the face of these nuts that's the measurement we're working with so I want to install this on that bracket I mean if I install the back plate flush with the stone I have 3/4 inch of my little nut to go in there let me get a measurement that gets me to an inch and a quarter ok those little nuts aren't that long so your best plan here is to embed this mounting screw no come on it should be a lot easier ok turn this back and then or turn the threaded rod so that it's only 1 inch, an inch from the back plate and go a little further and if we can't go beyond that then what we know to do is embed this plate in the hole if possible, but it's good to know how it works because not all situations are going to be desirable to embed the plate in the hole. a lot of times you're going to want to go for the recess in the threaded rod that comes in h before you double check an inch there mr. perfect ok so here we go now i have some hardware here that i brought will solve it just mounting this light fixture in a wall box and i went out and bought some screws now what you want to do is go to the local hardware store pick up a box of machine screws and this is just a basic machine thread it's a 632 per inch and a half this is what you want to grab I hate phillips now you can put this screw in the box and set the depth right where we want it good but there is nothing to prevent it from falling off.
This is the million dollar problem everyone has when they're doing electrical work so we've measured from the tile to the face of the fixture to mount it but when I'm mounting it if this is falling on me then I'm in a heap of trouble ok so this is what we do take this off take your moretz this is the tip of the day right? You put it right where the mounting box is. and you take a look at your depth and it's just a hair like it's just an eight h of an inch grab your side cutters grab a hole that bad boy doesn't look great but there's a hole and that's what you're looking for and this it becomes your washer so I mean if you want to take your bit to get rid of that metal thread part that's inside it's okay sit on it it's like a nail punch there it is and this is what's in your way, this is great for joining the wires, but it's really inconvenient and you're setting this up boy.
You can tuck it in, but you can't get it all. I'm having a lot of fun with this, right? I've never seen this be so stupid, just Hana, no, it's about rescuing my fucking bit, okay? there is my screw and here is my extension. I am going to hold this marette and here is the advantage of making sure there is no electricity. There's a lot going on here so don't try this live and there's enough to screw that up. The other option is you can go out and buy 40 or 50 of these silly little washers and stack them all up with one of these more etz handy it's so much easier and more versatile now we're ready to assemble our box ok ok now that box is fully secured which it's awesome all you have to do now is set up this level well i barely get it now that you've finished it i need to use my torpedo level here because this will tell me what the level looks like and i don't want to trust your eyes standing on a ladder .
Come on baby, okay, now there's a set screw in the panel. here once you have a level you squeeze that bad boy until you hear some resistance now your whole fixture will sit level if it's made square to the plate which in many cases it isn't but this fixture seems being of a higher quality shouldn't have that problem either hmm no big surprise i would love to buy all made in north america any of these threaded wires always have very little of the exposed wire for me i like no you might be one of those guys who They say no.
I love it when there's just a little. I can not stand. I like to pre-wrap my cord so I can sleep easy. I hate doing things twice. get started let's cut all these down here now the idea behind these little clips you haven't seen them before as they are designed to hold the glass shade properly and what you need to do to get the shades in place before you put the bulbs in and we're installing our fixture this way so it's super easy to do after it's installed but I think I saved myself a step because I'll be working over my head at the time yeah there's a good question for you maybe you can fill that out in the comments section, do you like the lamps when the lights are pointing down or when they are pointing up?
Now this is an option especially today when you're using LEDs and with some people no not most in my experience but some people love bright lights so it's not direct light in your face I've always been supporter of having light on your face for those times when you need to see what the heck is going on with your face, okay yeah what we're going to do is grab our ground wire. Also call it the hang wire because I put it on that green screw I put two loops on that bad boy ok and then I have the ability to hang my fixture ok I just know how to use a screwdriver it will be ok come on to squeeze it. up again there we go nice and gentle here yeah i'm nice and gentle that's ok now let's connect our wires we'll start with the black yeah i probably should have hung that wire a little closer together give it a little twist hold the wires in the base thread on the blue ok then do the same for the white ok yes if you can push them right connections back into the box thats ideal ok these connections here won't be in the way If it goes. get them where the plate is but if you can get them back inside the case then ok all we have to do is get these two screws through that plate and it should be perfect because we measured this is not the time we the one you want to identify how deep the screws need to be and make your adjustments. now that everything is glued and screwed there it is very difficult to play with it so I like to measure progress and put on these little balls now the same go back until you feel like it click there it is have your screwdriver handy there it is always going to be a cable that's going to be a bit frustrating ok make sure you don't compress the cables against the plate against the stone or the back wall and voila ok ok ok yeah and this is my lens with a sticker make sure you remove this sticker it's nice dry or eat it if you're using an incandescent bulb and to make it almost unwieldy put that top thread on that piece like this backwards until it seats light properly then forward it's ok if it does that's a very aggressive threat if you just start turning it on and try to force it will ever say a little label that was on the screen it mentions this device has max 100 watt bulbs not like last night , but I'm not going to put 400 watts of power in front of my face, we're going to use these 60 watt LEDs because it's better to have a white light than a yellow light, especially when you're using LED lights in the room lights that they used to have the same color temperature in the bulbs throughout your space, that's just one of those little signs that say you thought about what you're doing before you started, right? i've seen it all before and someone's house you're the winner in the standard kinda got a bunch of yellow lights and a bunch of white lights gotta fool everyone throw something away it still works though it looks awful there we go these fixtures still have the ability to balance them out even after installation ok so make sure it looks pretty voila thanks for joining us for that demo on renovating your own bathroom but here's the good part , let's talk about money because there is enough. some elements here that may or may not have been in the video like for example we have this amazing clear mirror in the shower behind us it has an LED light and a heated mirror so it doesn't fog up so you go to shave the shower is great for the guys right we also have the heated towel rack we also did all our own switched electrical system now i know some of you are there you know your different places in the world your electrical system is different al just like on stage.
We're all 20 amps we're 15 so don't be too hard on me if you watch the electrical video on how to do all the wiring in your bathroom put the link here for you ok now last thing we want to talk about they were the correct numbers so the cost of th the vanity and sink and herringbone mirror the lights the heated towel rail the door the tile the shower tray all these things the floor the underfloor heating system I mean there's a lot of right materials put us under five thousand dollars that's Canadian money so if you're from the states you're probably looking at a four thousand dollar investment so this is the good news when you do a project like this and take your boring old outdated bathroom from the builder and renovate four thousand dollars a material with all your own time, sweat, love and blood, you get a great return because the value of this house goes up ten to fifteen thousand dollars doing this bathroom now which is money in the bank, listen if you enjoy this type of content and are looking for information on how to renew because you are like me and you know that it is necessary to get ahead today and it has z click the subscribe button below and then don't forget to hit that notification bell so you get Notified from YouTube every time we put our new video up which should be pretty much every Saturday night at 9:00 EST and one more thing if you are a renovator and need help i can encourage you to join our membership program.
I guarantee to answer our members' questions. YouTube has changed our little computer studios so that I can see every one of your questions and make sure I answer them and they don't let me get away with it. That is incredible. We also have an email. so you can send us photos and ask for details and give you advice we are here to help you we want to help you see everyone to be successful in your renovation because we don't just show you tips and tricks so you can ruin your house, we show you how to improve it, many thanks for joining us today don't forget to hit the like button if you think you may have learned something valuable and if you want to see the full playlist of this project it's her We have all videos divided into sections so if you missed anything , you can scroll through that playlist and find what you're looking for.
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