Complete Build of a Modern Rustic Bathroom

Hi, I'm Jeff from DIY Home Renovation and welcome to my

bathroom

. Today's video will be a little unique because we have here a video of the entire project to

build

an entire

bathroom

from scratch. This is what I call high-end luxury. The final bathroom is half high, not the best of the line, but these really nice and aesthetically pleasing accessories, so if you are thinking about renovating your bathroom and you are not sure what to do and you are looking for some great ideas and, to Come along for the ride, grab a cup of coffee, maybe sit back and relax, and we'll take you on the journey of all the steps it takes to

build

something like this and any information that's missing.

This room is missing a bit of information to help make this video reasonable. We'll put all the links in the video description broken down so you can see specific projects later, but in this video we'll simply show you the process of what it's like to do your own DIY bathroom renovation so you can get an idea, that it's something you can address, maybe you can, there's some element of this that you want to get, but it'll be a good idea. time anyway, we'll see in the video. Oh, and by the way, at the end of the video, we're going to break down the cost of all the different elements of this bathroom and the different things that you can do because you can do this bathroom.

It's much less expensive here if you want and you get a very similar result. Well, you see it on the other side. The secret to installing one of these tower systems is to plan ahead, so every time I tell people how to renovate. a bathroom and you want custom accessories, you want something really beautiful and sexy, the truth is that you want to do all your shopping first, have everything on site and then when you are preparing and building, you can have reference material plus a diagram that can be online, which may be out of date, may not be relative to the model number you're dealing with, so I love having things.

I'm a visual guy. I love having it and holding it up against a wall and saying this is where I want it to work, so what we're going to do is put a tower on this wall. This is not a traditional shower system. This is the one that is mounted on top of a finished tile surface and has body jets. the hand the rain shower the waterfall feature and it's right here so let's take a quick look at it so here we go now this is awesome we just set up a new affiliate program with Wayfarer and the reason I did it is because I discovered than Amazon pipes fittings, we're just very limited, there weren't many great options, whereas the Wayfarer seems to be more focused on plumbing fixtures and they have a ton of options so you can start senior right from the start. that this is going to be something sexy, but the important thing for me is to know what it looks like, it's what's behind it, thank you and that's how they are made, it's like a PEX pipe, only it's much more similar. a water supply agency for your faucet or toilet, it's a braided faucet line and what they come with all the fittings and this is a very normal half inch female thread and you just have to add a half inch male.

I screw this on and I can plug this water supply line into the wall and then I just mount it now here's a mounting bracket here's a mounting bracket here and then the case comes a hardware box like a little french clamp and I just I mount these two little brackets on the wall and attach them after connecting the plumbing. It's usually a two-person installation, but it's actually very simple and gives you the flexibility to lift it up further from the wall and undo the two connections. and then install the new one if you want. Now on the side there are joints.

This is just for this red set to rest against the stone. It's a nice, clean finish. You don't have to use silicone everywhere, so it's kind of like that. nice like this, what I want to do is hold this against my wall. I want to identify exactly where I want it to be when it's finished so I can put my marks on the wall and add wood blocks to my frame. to know where this is going to be mounted because my center line is not where this study is, so if I want to end up here, which is to be honest with you, I love that, oh yeah, I just flip this over and know that this is going to be here and then this one has its boom.

Now I don't have to worry about the exact location when I'm done, but I'll add a 2x4 piece at this point and down there, as well as a vertical L to this. I will make 16 inch Matt blocks. The 16 inch blocks give me the ability to go up or down when it comes time to do the installation, but I know I will have wood there to screw to one of the other secrets you need to remember because you have water lines going up the wall, You'll want to use a depth of a screw that won't go through the stone and the depth of a 2x4, so keep in mind that one of the benefits of doing all the work yourself is when it's time to finish, you know how you built it so you don't screwed into the water line, that would be disastrous.

You know, something like this, you would think it would be worth a lot of money, but the truth is it only cost $300. and we had it within a week of ordering it. Such an offer, we will have a link in the description below the video so you can check our way to find a link and find great deals there; Be very careful when you are doing this sink the screw until the wood is tight. You don't want to leave spaces because that is a weak point. Most of these shower towers have a very similar installation, the locations where the water comes out and where the supports go.

It will be unique to each tower and depending on the person and characteristics, you may have a higher or lower set, so when placing this large block, even though my wood is on top, my mounting plate goes right here. I have flexibility at the bottom. The path is fine so I choose either a shorter trigger system or the mounting blocks are in a different location. I don't want to just attach this via a screw to a plug in the tile. This is one of those situations where having your product on site is really important, I just went and checked the shower tower to confirm the two water supply lines that connect to my lines here, where they come out, where These braided lines are comfortable, you must be careful not to bend them now.

On the back of that tower there's a little collector, okay, and there's a braided line hanging like this for hot and cold, but it's near the bottom, so what's going to happen is I'm going to make it appear towards above. like this and I need my water supply to go down through the hole to something

complete

ly opposite of where I am now, so I'm going to have to cut the line, put an L in an elbow, redirect these water lines that come down so that when I go and connect my water supply. I can have a nice, comfortable curve and not risk thinking it's really interesting.

Almost all of these towers are installed to date. The water supply came directly from the rear. Well, we were able to I put the extra braided line on the wall in this situation I have to redirect so I'm like my water is coming from the ceiling. Very interesting now if we were doing this in a basement where the water would come from, no. be a problem in this situation my water is coming from the floor so I'm going to adjust this to leave me an open panel to install this later and I'll do all the plumbing at the installation point now, that may seem complicated. but the truth is I have these water lines disconnected on the other end for now so I can pull them in and out properly so I can do all my plumbing, push them back into the wall into position and then I can bring my towel ring of water later.

It pays to plan ahead and know what your options are and have your product on site. This was almost any other job. I would be really in trouble and that Tower came because I wouldn't have the flexibility to make these modifications. opening the wall from the other side, okay, we've talked a little bit briefly about our system here for the shower, how we got a built-in bench, but let's talk about our finish because this is what I would consider superior. shower installation with waterproofing system than many others and I know we have had some criticism on the channel before because we have used drywall with waterproofing systems and yes there are some areas in North America where the building code requires them to be used some on fiberboard so we thought we'd do this video with cement board just to demonstrate the differences and a lot of the differences are in the cutting techniques.

To be honest, I mean putting up cement board or drywall or anything else doesn't work. There is a lot of difference but you need the right tools so what we are going to use very quickly we have to change our wood blade and that is one of the reasons why I love this saw because everything I need to change my blades is here. If I can do it, here we go, forget about hand saws, where's Nate? here we go now you can't use a carbide tipped wood blade to cut cement because you will almost be blinded by the amount of dust it decrees us to be Honestly, now I'm going to switch to a bleed that's 62 for a fiber cement board blade which has the number 60.

Now this blade is not a huge investment, it's under $20, it's worth picking up, it's available at your local store, and it just appears like any other. With the other blade, just make sure the carbide is pointing towards our face because the blade rotates counterclockwise so the blade will cut in that direction. If you put them in backwards he will just sit there and make a hole and nothing will drive him crazy wondering why he can do that. Don't cut the board, the funny thing is that it will cut but it won't go straight. You'll just be all over the place going crazy.

I love my saw. I just press this little button here and I can re-tighten it with the wrench that stores nice and easy in the handle. I love this song. Now we can use it. We're only cutting half an inch of material so we're going to shorten the blade a little bit so we don't increase the amount of heat that they were causing that if you bury the entire blade through the cement board, all of those blades make contact as they rotate, they will They overheat very quickly and then you will start to go off track as it was worked, so there we are going to call this again in the In this case, from time to time we are going to cut the last boards that go on this wall, so they are basically two types of fiber cement boards that are a quarter inch and a half inch thick and you'll notice that the quarter inch comes with this. grid and the idea behind it is that if you take your utility and I, if you can just score it and break it, you can usually just score it and break it, but not with your hands, you want to set that edge up to a 2x4 and then stand up. the other piece will break so you can measure and cut that way without the blade, but honestly I just suggest buying the blade, it gives you a lot more versatility, the half inch doesn't mark or break, you're going to need the sheet and you will need that half inch every time your shower wall is attached to another drywall or room surface, the drywall is half an inch so you will want to use a half inch cement board here if you only use the fourth part you have.

I have to put down two coats and I think it's a bad deal. These screws that come for this product have a blue coating and will be specially marked for cement board use. There is also a product with green screws and it installs on the surface it's fine, it's going to be a bump, don't worry, it doesn't have to be flush because when you apply the cement for the entire stone, you will use 3/8, a quarter or half. one inch cement line anyway now of course our system for that is to use the fiber tape on all the corners it's like doing drywall only after we put the tape down you want to get some cement fast setting and you want to apply with a four inch knife just to install and seal all corners before using a waterproofing membrane and yes with cement board I suggest using a waterproof membrane this board itself does not get damaged when it gets wet , but if it does not have a waterproof membrane you are not diverting all the water that is hidden behind the tiles towards the drain; you're still allowing this to absorb water and sooner or later that water is going to get to your frame and create a siphon and that's for sure. and every time you shower, water will get into the wood and at one point that wood will have so much water in it that it will start to drip, that's when it will go through the ceiling beneath you.

The good thing about these screws is that they are really sharp. points to go through that pore of cement like it was nothing, the difficult part is that if you have a lot of hands you are going to fill yourself with holes, now you want to install this more or less the same way you would with drywall, it is well, one screw every 12 inches. This is where this gets interesting. Well, we are simply laying down our fiberglass mesh tapeself-adhesive as part of the process to treat this cement board. The product recommendation is that we use a little quick set on top. that cement, once it's dry, we can take out our green Aqua Defense membrane, that's the roll and we'll just paint the shower before we tile it.

Yes, an interior trowel for corners is very useful. Put mesh in these corners. It's not very often that you use mesh in a corner. If you're stuck on drywall work, you can do it. You want to use a fast setting cement in those applications and the same thing. here since we are using a fast setting cement I can use this corner towel just to embed the tape and the reason we use this is to give the cement something to adhere to so that it is a continuous bond from one surface to the next. and then dikes when all is said and done and the cements dry and we paint our waterproofing membrane there, this would be a very, very, very effective way to create a DIY waterproof shower and save a ton of money, here we go, okay , it's actually a good time to ask if you have any questions about waterproofing systems, just put them in the comments section below because we've used Schlueter, we've used regular drywall, we used a Schluter membrane, kerdi board, we've used red protector, we have used Aqua Defense on drywall now we are using it on cement board.

Each of these systems is a little different and has different pros and cons, including cost and availability, so if you're unsure you can always ask questions. Yes, we even did that. once a tile on tile video showing how to waterproof your existing space and then give a new look to the inside of the existing one, so I mean there are many options available and there is no one right way to do it, there are just a lot of ways Different correct ways to do it depending on what's best for you, so here's a question you get all the time, basically it's understanding how these sets go together.

You'll see this is a shower pan and it has what we call an integrated tile lip. Well, this rising piece is part of the continuous part of the shower tray pore and it goes right against this frame of the space. It is exactly the same as the bathtub. A bathtub has a built-in tile surround. Also, whether it is 16 inches tall, 20 inches tall or 2 inches tall, they all work exactly the same, the base is placed against the frame and then the substrate goes in, whether it is cement, drywall, kurti board or wedi board, whatever you are using. six addition to this, the secret here is that it doesn't matter if you place it directly on top and in most cases I suggest leaving a gap because these products tend to flex when you walk with them or sit on them. them, if your bathtub, what you do is you just take your mesh tape or your Kerdi bands, that orange tape that comes with the Kurdish looting system and cover the space with duct tape.

It almost seems ridiculous when you think about it, but it's very effective. And then what? What we are going to do is follow the manufacturer's instructions. We're going to put our quick-setting cement on top of all of this just to fill it up. It's like drying well when we use our 20 minute mix and all of our gaps and cracks before adopting a similar concept here, we're going to fill that gap with cement, then we're going to apply our membrane, which will then be painted from this point to the entire wall, so there's no way for water to get behind any of these substrates or between any of these cracks once you're done that way and that's how you

complete

the assembly to have a complete water diversion system at all times. your shower straight into the drain this is my favorite waterproofing membrane Aqua Defense bye bye Matt bye it's just a simple move coach you're ready to go.

Thick rolls don't work and the best part is that one of these tubs will do. about four hours, so that's great, what we're going to do now is I have to run to the store to pick up a bag of quick setting cement because I don't have one. I thought so, but it's been stored too long. and it's gotten all lumpy, so I'm going to grab another one, we'll do the quick joints and after that we'll set it up for about 20 minutes or so, we'll be able to roll this and of course it's just one part of the whole. correct process place your board, fix it to tape it, fill it, waterproof it and then it's time to lay the tiles, but we can do all that tomorrow, so by the end of tomorrow we will have all our tiles finished. here and it will start to look like a bathroom.

I'm really excited, so now that our cement board is ready, our mesh tape is installed, we're going to use our cement compound just to fill in the gaps and create a good bond. from one surface to the next we are using the quick fit, there is a product I found at the local hardware store that installs in about 15 or 20 minutes, so you have to work fast, do it in small batches, put the water in the bucket, first add the mixture. give it a quick whip and then run to work, it's going to be a little crazy but I'll probably do two or three applications of this to get it all done and in about half an hour from now we can do the waterproofing. membrane in the shower, the recommendation from the company that sells the fiberboard is to not just put the tape on but add the cement, so today I'm going to show you all the main procedures just to make sure you get the right information.

I have an hour. I'm a little thicker than a slurry, which is perfect. Now we have to execute. The idea is to fill the space at the base. This is the most crucial point. So we can always revisit this later. this cement starts to set it doesn't have to be pretty now just put it in there just one application to do the job we can clean it all up afterwards although the cement sets pretty fast there is a lot of work time while it finishes in the hardening process for us to clean it out of the pit the shower, of course, be sure to remove the plastic.

If you are going to put in a new shower fan, remove it because if you waterproof while the plastics are in place, the water will find a way behind it and that would be disastrous, okay, now it's like drywall, right, La Crosse, the drywall cement forest, a little tree here in the mountains, we're going to work fast here just to get everything, really the goal is just to get the cement into the grain so that you have a surface that's a waterproof membrane that can bind it together. starting to get stuck now, actually, that's how I like it.

I like it a little more rigid. This is like waxing what you are putting on. Then you remove it, try to leave the surfaces as smooth and flat as possible so that nothing interferes with the installation of the tiles. Okay, now if you're working on making a steam shower, the only difference in your application is that you want to remove the cement. board or a waterproof drywall or something placed on the ceiling and continues with all these mesh joints that also cover the entire ceiling. Now generally, steam showers hold the steam and have full doors that go from the floor to the ceiling of the system, so you're really encapsulating.

You are more like a submarine in this system. I'm just creating a water diversion and protecting against a little steam, but it's not a big deal, and when you're here, the wiring will be set up, the fan will be on with the power turned on, and it's guaranteed to evacuate all the moisture from this room. , so again, how much you want to prepare for the type of longevity is up to you, but if you cement the board, seal the joints, and use a waterproofing membrane system. most shower systems with a decent fan in the room you're looking at, a 50 to 75 year old shower won't be a concern and I'm more than happy with that so we had enough time to get the subfloor down and now that.

It's tough, it's not completely dry or cured yet, but it doesn't matter, it's a solid substrate and it's ready to receive our waterproofing system, which is our Aqua guard now. I love this product. I've used it before, last bath in fact. We used this can in her mother's day video, it was actually the tile from her tile video, yeah, and I mention, and I wouldn't before, that the tub is a little too big for a single shower, so yeah You have it at hand, you can use it. Do it again and here we are using the rest of this tub.

You know, most houses are two bedrooms, if you have three bedrooms, you will have two renovation showers throughout your life. You know, one of them you might want. to completely redo it like this and the other one maybe we want to give it a little facelift like a tile on tile job you should watch that video we'll put the link in the description you can see how you can remodel and the differences versus renovating now this is awesome , we're just going to cut this is like painting a wall with this brush and roller, we're taking our waterproofing system down to the acrylic base, okay, before we put down the mosaics, here we go. we're just going to use this as if we were cutting a wall, let's get a little layer here, we want to put this on pretty thick, the secret to an effective membrane is actually in the thickness of the material when it's dry, as opposed to a wall or less is the more with waterproofing systems the more you can leave the better matify is a Canadian company and has a fairly large distribution circle, but depending on where you are in this country, North America or the world, you will have a tile. company that will have a role in the membrane, this is not a unique product that has been on the market for twenty three years and you can find out what distributors it has for the supply of tiles and cements, they will also have this product, its commercial applications are very common. using a roll-on membrane when you're tiling, in fact the other day someone said he's a guard in the prison system in the UK and they just redid all the prisoner showers and just used the roll-on membrane. membrane covered with what was there before and that's how they did the job there and saved the taxpayers a fortune.

I don't think it was my advice, but the suggestion said that it is a good system that is used by professionals, it is accepted in the industry, so I know there are a lot of people who like to badmouth that type of product, but at the same time End of the day there is a reason these products are on the market and they can roll on membranes or be worth it. weight in gold, you don't necessarily have to upgrade to fancy board systems and we D and Kerdi and sluder all these things that I like to say like that based on the investment in tile and the renovation and the life expectancy of the project, then your Los substrate systems and your waterproofing system should be relative to that, so if you're only spending five hundred dollars on tile for your bathroom renovation, it doesn't make any sense to spend a thousand dollars on waterproofing, especially if you're doing it yourself, but if you're spending a thousand dollars on tile, maybe you're in that market, we're looking to protect that investment over a longer period of time, it might make some sense to make it work amazingly, so depending on your shower design again, if this is a steam shower you wanted to waterproof all the walls and the ceiling this is just a normal shower we're going to have a fan so I could really get away with the bottom four feet with the waterproofing system because the cement board doesn't It does damage if a little bit of moisture gets in, which is why people like to use it and why some states actually included that part of the building code, but the reality is that if you really want to protect your investment, you should. make sure the water doesn't get to the frame behind the cement, that's why we use the membrane, it's not the cement or we're worried that once it gets wet it will transfer that moisture to the wood frame behind it. over time and once the wood starts to absorb that moisture it will draw it through the cement, it will create a trap and it will start to drip onto the ceiling, so really what we want to do here is protect the most vulnerable areas so that they don't They absorb water and those are the bottom four. feet and around the bench so that when you finish showering and rinsing the walls and stuff you don't allow the water to penetrate and cause a problem, yeah, it's time for code number two among all of us personally, I think first The code is going to be well, but it's prevention before cure because you only need one place for water to penetrate and cause a lot of pain, so there is always time in construction: you have the mentality of making an excessive waterproofing membrane.

The funny thing is that most of the time when it comes time to go overboard, it's the things that no one sees when you're done, which is one of the reasons I firmly believe that people should do their own bathroom renovations. the most important step for plumbing, waterproofing, all these kinds of things, these are things that are not part of the projectfinished, things that if they're not done right, that's where you run into problems and those are generally the areas where people will take shortcuts if they're in a hurry and that's why I think homeowners are their best general contractors.

Well, here is the million dollar question for you. If you've seen some of our other videos, you may have noticed what we've done. many different types of waterproofing systems there is no one way to do it do you like green things, like red guard, like kurdi membrane, do you like kerdi board, do you like cement board versus waterproof drywall, many different ones? options out there I'm curious to hear your opinion and in fact if you can put it in the comments section below I would love to know what state or country you live in and what your minimum code is where you live because this is an area that is different. across the entire board, so I chose a basically three to four foot test all the way around, including the bench, because I didn't have enough material in this cube to do a full second shower up to the ceiling, but because this wouldn't absorb moisture. and I'm not going to stand here spraying water on the wall all day.

I'm not too worried about it, but what I'm worried about is if the water gets behind the tile and sits here. I want to make sure it's diverted back into the shower pan, which is why we're sealing the bench and around the shower area. corner of the shower I'm building and sealing it down to the acrylic base we're not taking. there are possibilities and I know some of what people might think oh you're taking shortcuts. I think if I waterproofed all the joints so that the water had nowhere to escape and left the possibility of water behind the tiles backing up under the tray. it'll be okay, hey, and for the sake of this video, we actually removed the tile installation from this video, but if you really want to see it, it's 18 by 36, you can click on the card link up here, okay , and also if you want to find something that makes it a little simpler for you, if you're new to tiling, we'll put a link in the description below on how to make subway tiles because that would be another great option if you're doing your own shower and back to the video so another word halfway through our plumbing it's time for us to lay out our lines and we've done the checking we know exactly where the mounting is we've got our wood wall now it's the moment. to connect our plumbing so that it actually goes up and then comes back down to make our connections as we found out we need to do, what we're going to use is just a simple little PEX plumbing system, we're just going to make some additions. in this with some elbows to redirect the water because right now our photos are facing up and that's not what we want so for people who aren't familiar with the pecs it's basically a plastic tube and it has brass fittings and copper rings that join together. to create enough pressure around the joint to more than withstand anything related to water pressure in the lines, we have seen tests where the pipe will actually burst before the joints give and these pipes are actually designed to expand when frozen and not break so you'll be perfectly safe as long as you tighten these things correctly so we're just going to be interested a little bit without pipe these are special X shaped pipe cutters and if you need to buy these tools because to your situation, you can connect us on Amazon, the links in the description, check out just your favorite tools, you will be able to find some really cost-effective pectoral plumbing tools for your project, here we go, let me put these extensions here because now you need to put them on. into two rings and then the elbow when working with things always put your connectors into your copper rings first before adding your fittings and then when you get them into position just give them a pinch and that should help keep it in place place.

I always found it easier to make the connection and then cut the pipe to fit. Yeah great, can you imagine if I had done the plumbing here in copper before the unit arrived? I wasn't sure and just based it on my experience and experience. In all of these tower systems, the water supply line, the benzene comes right out the back, so a lot of guys will install it, they'll bring some rigid copper, they'll put it in an elbow with a thread and this will just mount there on the wall, ready to roll and then they come to put in the plumbing and say oh wow look because at the extraction site the plumber always comes behind the tile when he finishes mounting the unit, he would come to this and say hmmm what to do because now his pipe is coming from below you can't put that extra joint in there because it's not long enough, it will cause a crimp, and the plumber also says, well let's install with a crimp, we'll see if we're lucky, did you have an extra joint? length on and then there's not enough room to get it all in behind, so we create problems there or say, hey, take the tile off the wall.

I can open the wall and fix the copper lease. When you have pecs, you are flexible. you have options okay I can basically lift this jam from the ceiling here we go no my waterline is down how easy is that so now that I'm settled great I just do this and here's the best part . I will make this gasket and it will be installed outside the wall lower than the tile so even if there is a leak it will be inside the shower system it won't be a problem. These fittings are designed for half inch pecs and that is a half inch male thread. standard, okay, nothing special here, the unit that comes with the shower tower has a half inch female thread and they are standard and compatible, there we go, the shower plumbing is now complete, that's simple, just a couple of minutes, all kinds of flexibility when I go to install. this unit I can raise or lower just by adjusting this pax Lane on the wall, right, you don't get that kind of flexibility with the cover, well, we finally finished all our stone.

I still have to put the silicone on, but that's okay, let's finish the tower now we'll silicone a little later, we have enough time in the day here to finish filming this video, so this is what we're going to do with tower. Remember the last time we spoke. the extension for the plumbing is done, I'm going to reach in here to pull them out, okay, there's the red line and now these lines are still very adjustable because I have them running through the basement and they haven't been attached at the other end yet. makes this really easy if you don't have such a flexible situation, okay all you need to do is take this out about an inch or two, but I find having that flexibility is amazing because these towers are heavy and if we're working alone, it's a little difficult to work with, but here we go, let me take the teto and bring it here, we'll set it all up, so here's the back of my tower and I have this connection here. it goes to the hose adapter that will connect to this and we'll do that a little later in the video what we're going to worry about now is putting the brackets on this wall.

You can see there's a mounting bracket here and another one on At the bottom, these mounting brackets originally, this hose that is your water supply, came here on the other side of that thing and if you wanted to, you could have lowered the water supply at the bottom and could have taken it directly to the wall this way. but then you can see that your opportunity to work there is getting very small, you would have to have someone hold it in the air while you are on your knees crawling and squeezing that, that's why I opted to bring them in for free. then I can execute them like this, that's what this height is for.

You also have this great little plastic toy here that you can use to tighten those nuts honestly when you're behind that machine getting it ready, there's not a lot of room for wrenches. so having that little audition there really changes the game, so what we're doing is we're putting this visibly on the wall and I'm going to say, I like it, I like that height, I like this feature. that grout line, yeah, so I'm going to make a mark with my tape, that's where I want that thing, and then I'm just going to measure this sensor, this is just a little digital readout screen on the back and my bracket It's actually just on top of that, that was really cool, so first we're going to measure the center of the shower, which is actually right on this line, it's very easy because of the stone that I chose, I know it's seventeen inches and medium, which is Great, I'm going to make mine work for my first stand at that height.

Now all I do is measure the distance between supports and I can translate that information. There we go, this way you want to be more or less exact, okay, thirty-seven. and a quarter, okay, I should be able to guess within three feet here, thirty-seven and a quarter from that location, there's my center line, okay, just to be sure, I'm going to grab my laser level, throw a line about that, make sure you have a nice Wow, it's actually a deadly beryllium, here we are, we have our hardware, this is my shower tube, my hose and my connections.

We'll put all of that on the tower, but in the bag also comes what I call my little French cleat mounting clips. The idea is to mount it there, this screws into the wall and then the bar on the back of the unit will come down and slide behind it making it compressable to the wall nice and simple. It also comes with the plugs that I need, which are a quarter inch size each, screw caps, stainless steel screws, this is my favorite. I have some plastic washers in there, if you are working with a textured stone, if you want to install one of these shower units you may need to use them. one of these to create enough clearance for the unit to hold on well so textured stone you will sometimes have to place this behind the plate to build the plate away from the wall so your unit can still mount on top of that . in the middle of all that texture that's also there, it's a good option, so here we go, because we have our center mark across the line, we're going to put this here and we're going to use our little torpedo level that over an area small it's incredibly accurate if you get it exactly on the line in that bubble here we go that's my setup line BAM okay and we'll just confirm that there's 37 - quarter that was the number we were using I love the reason why What do you want?

Perfect, there's just a little bit of area to work with with this slope, it actually pushes the machine by gravity towards the wall. If you place them too far apart, it will catch on one piece and not the other, and the machine will terminate. rub and that's not desirable, so now we take our clips because the back of the machine that we were measuring from is actually right near the bottom, so the overall dimension of where we rough it out will be more or minus half an inch, so Don't be too hard on yourself, let's work with the numbers that we got and I'll just mark a center line on the actual stand so I can line it up with my pencil and then I'll go through. exaggerate where those holes are so you know exactly where to drill, this will make everything look relatively perfect every time, okay, we have a nice quarter inch glass and tile drill bit, nothing fancy, it's pretty simple, we're just going to go low speed with the drill and this should go through that tile with ease here, this is the squeaky sound of the blade, okay, start with the four before I wear down the tip a little bit and then I'll show you a trick to show you how. to keep the drill bit from overheating because they will split if they get too hot now that we've started the hole if we don't need the tape anymore, I'm just going to grab our damp sponge that we were using earlier for grouting.

I'm going to put my drill bit on my tip and I'm just going to drill while holding two things away. That tip works great on ceramic and you'll find your blade will last much longer. It also takes forever to drill the hole. oh yeah, that's how I like to get through the fog because I don't have ladies all day, what is it? I've had people telling me for years not to use it on the camera drill, look how fast it was, I mean why would I? You, that's two less. I would still be working on that first hope.

I was using the other system. Yes, I know the parts don't last that long, but how often will you be installing the shower? He can pay the seven dollars that you can't. I don't want to be here all day drilling a couple of holes, if you remember, we've put wood behind these areas so we don't have to rely on plugs, which is what we did, we just punched through the cement. to sprout, now we can screw directly to the lip, that's amazing, burst a phillips head, the bane of my existence, okay, then it's easier to put the screw in and there, Phillips,especially in your hard work.

Oh, the typical screws aren't long enough to come out of my tile through my cement board into the wood, aha, now I have to rely on the plugs, that's just great or I'll solve a longer screw problem. I grab some two and a half inch deck screws because if you remember, I don't want to use more screws than necessary, we have one and a half, just think about my pores behind on the flat plus a 1/2 inch mint stick plus almost 1/2 inch for tile, that's two and a half. I'm not putting my plumbing at risk because the head of that screw is not going to pass the plate and the thickness of that plate plus the head is almost 1/4, so we're in pretty good shape now it's just a matter of drilling that out.

Again, be careful not to tighten too much, make sure the cement is nice and dry behind it, we want it stiff but not too tight, just until this thing stops moving, so here's the elbow, the wires from the wand man, this always drives me crazy. there's a filter at the inlet I hate the restrictions on my water flow it has nothing to do with anything oh yeah honey now let's get some pressure hey that's a decent quality hose huh surprise surprise when it says This means that it is a good metal. the hose twists out of the package, that means we are half plastic for 50 bucks, you can get a really nice metal one, this is my only problem, oh no, those are silicone rubber, gasp, yes, these hoses come with gaskets built in , very pretty, okay.

So those are my three components, right, and this appears to be my clamp to attach to my tower. Alright, now just a quick warning on the back of this tower. You almost never, never had, have a small meeting. Okay, it's covering the galvanized edge, okay, so when you grab your tower, you're nice and safe. The rest of this area, like when you're showering, it doesn't reach, okay, this is sheet metal, it's just a rock cut when your hands. they are wet if you touch this you will cut it to the bone so be careful there is no such thing as a company that doesn't have exposed metal so be smart when installing and make sure you are grabbing the gasket on the back ok here we go , there are two things at play here, one is we want to attach this to the other side, see, they cut the drill bit oval, so there's the threaded connection there, so you can.

Don't confuse that, put that in, leave that gasket there, it's to keep water out, if you really want to push it, if you want a better look, we could put the gasket on the inside, to be honest with you, little water gets in. It's not the end of the world. I go like this because I looked sexy. These are all plastic parts. Okay, so the danger here is that I overtighten them and break them. What I like to do is rotate them about five. degrees beyond my level as tight as you can and then turn it back into position, only we have a good adjustable wrench on hand, it's really good, this loosens a little over time, which is very possible due to the type of materials that were used. working with here, Beverly, there is a plastic fitting here, so having it loose won't be a big surprise, it's not a problem, you lift it off the wall once we install it, it can be lifted, have someone work with you or you can use it. my trick when you take it off to leave it and you can tighten all the plumbing connections, now here we are, this is the supply line that goes to that wand, okay, use my trick, roll back, right there, you heard that and then you move on that way, you know you're not threading every time you're threading a plastic or non-plastic accessory, don't discount your own strength, you can easily cross it and just wind it up and think you're kind. and tight and what you've done destroyed your seal get this nice comfortable moderate force here you know, okay, don't overdo it and then pull the hose to a position that it should move freely, bring good shape, okay, this hose here you have two extremes.

The end is the one on the base, just confirm that before you go and install it, it's okay because the threading is universal and will work on both ends. Gotta go back, boy, I can't even tell you every time. I have destroyed something in my life until I learned that secret impulses are crazy right now. I want to take a shower here tomorrow morning. I don't want to wonder if I can take a shower. Okay, wrap your bubble wrap around your accessory. squeeze it with the pliers again, it's okay, you can tighten it too much and it will break if you don't squeeze it enough, it will leak, but you're in a shower, it's okay, so if you're going to make a mistake, err on the side of needing to tighten , it's later because it's always an option to replace the piece that will just ruin your day, okay, now we're ready to install this bad boy we need on the creative table here something with some weight, so the bucket of water from when it I touched I'll throw my hock in there, it's made of solid aluminum so nothing bad will happen there, we'll just lift this tower in the air and put it there now that I can connect.

Now I realize that these lines are color coded for hot and cold water, just like my water supply lines, so this should be as simple as possible. This is metal and metal, so the risk of them crossing is not the same if they go around twice. you're okay and use this little wrench to pry, okay, here we go, this line. I've seen situations where maybe two or three people are working together trying to put one of these things together, it's like we take two seconds to come up with a platform. can you rest your accessory I don't like your life no, we have them tight on hand now the accessory has the ability to put a key on it, let's take advantage of it yes, it's okay because this thing goes inside the wall, right, this is not a place where you want waste time, okay, here we go, that's it, not for my next act, okay, let's put them back up on the wall, now we didn't have to have this plumbing actually on the wall, lots of space. the cavity here so let's not be afraid to take advantage of that space now we are hanging high we are in a good position now press against the wall with your knee and your hands and slide down to activate the mechanism it is already a little dusty, but you will see in the side here that the joint is almost completely engaged, which is really good, well, now you will see these systems there, now it doesn't work, now it doesn't work the same, there we go, inevitably people are going to ask me what's up with the big hole on the wall?

Jeff, here's a secret. If you have the fan on when you are in the shower, all the moisture that enters the air is pulled out of the air at about 110 cubic feet per minute. You're not going to have this wall that starts sweating on you and dripping behind you if you get a little bit of moisture behind that wall. You're made of tile and cement board, okay, which won't get moldy if the cable actually leaks into the wall cavities that the house is on. made of wood, it can absorb a couple of ounces of water every month, every day, it can absorb a lot of water and redistribute it back into the atmosphere, relative humidity takes care of all these problems, don't get hung up on the details, this is fabulous . system and for the love of God don't lift up the clear silicone and start getting that goo all over the side just to think you're waterproofing, that's a waste of time, it looks ugly and it'll end up coming loose because this is an area wet and silicone that sits in so much water with something that is moving, it will come loose from the seal, you will no longer have clear, it will look translucent white, unpleasant, leave it pretty, leave it looking good and enjoy it and if it starts to cause you problems, take twenty minutes and half an hour to replace it with another system.

What a great idea, especially when you're going to sell your house, so in five ten years I want to sell this place. take this other $300 unit and have a new shower because stone doesn't age but generally metals lose their shine over time and it would be nice to update it so in this video we're going to install this live edge countertop in our bathroom we're going to do it to assemble floating from the wall we will show you all the necessary steps to assemble it and prepare the countertop mani if ​​you can remove that for me thanks friend, I'm going to start sanding well Now what we are going to do, we are going to take our 3/4 rod of inch.

It comes with elbows that you can buy at the hardware store. This is standard at any Home Depot, so you don't have to look for it. and you buy the elbow, the rod, and both threaded router ends, which means if you buy a small rod like this, you can cut it off and take out the extension as well, so what I'm going to do is go To set this up, I'm going to have Matt cut right there. I think I like that height, so we basically wanted our countertop set at 32 inches. We will use a vessel sink so that it is not too high. that's right over here, so what I'm going to do is just look at my mark, get some space and here we go, Matt, what I want you to do is give me three of these cut pieces at the same time.

Place here, okay, but I need three eighteen inch pieces, okay, so three of this length and the three and 18 inches, okay, there are two more rods right there, you can cut them for me. I'm Matt, I'm going to use that evolution, I saw it's ours. new tool, a blade cuts wood and metal, if you haven't seen it before, we have a video where we made a huge hardwood pallet. Unbelievable, we did the entire hardwood deck for three days cutting that blade and then it was still able to cut quarter inch steel pipe blew me away. We still use that same blade today and if you want to check it out we'll put a link in the description.

That video is incredible. I need the thread, yes, yes, that's very. important this is why I want to have all the marks before you start cutting. I'll take the marker tape. Check these two too. Here we go with the thumb against the fence. Here you have. You are creating a pivot. No, thanks. No it's yes, Dad, so now that we've got our pieces cut out, we've put them together, just curl them into the corner like this and you can start to quickly figure out how this is going to come together. Now these elbows don't necessarily form the square tube the goal is to place it where it's perfectly level and all at the same height, so to do that you're going to use a nice straight piece of wood and a laser level that way we can place the back and the front dead level and then mount it all accordingly now my laser level has a universal thread for all the camera mounts which makes it awesome because I can adjust the height of this bad boy exactly where I want it to be done right as well that I'm using my laser line to tell me where the level is for the top of the pipe and that's going to be where the thickness of the countertop starts, okay and there you have it plus a vessel sink that makes it very comfortable and now just we're We're going to take our piece of two-by-six material here and install it right on the line and put in a mounting screw.

Okay, here we go, so now I have a positive stop when I'm setting up my rod. The back of the counter will be level correctly and what we can do is manipulate the angle that we install this at to get the front level right, so now I'm going to lower my laser level about 3/8 of an inch and there we go. and my goal we will have all these lines in the pipes in the same place. I have a laser line right in the middle of my pipe and I know it's going to be level so I keep changing my line here, oh that's going to work. they look amazing so these clips actually fit exactly in the dimension of the same place you placed them just below the elbow okay and then the best way I can imagine to do this is to perfectly level my pipe first and then when be inside. a perfect position, take my marker and mark my points.

I don't want my screws to go right so where do you use our torpedo impact level here also when working with the counter if you install your brackets with about a 1 or 2 degree angle up is fine because there is a little bit of flex here under the weight and under when I pull this under the weight it will be level it's amazing so we do this three times we have the same setup. but what I can do is take out my four foot level and after I get all these rods, install them with one or two screws.

I can put the level on the front of the steel and make minor adjustments, huh, this is awesome. Ok, let me have the other two, buddy. Perfect, always the most fun thing about this whole system is that when you go to the lumber store to buy the wood, the big slab, because it's made of pine, it only costs you one hundred and sixty dollars, that's for a 20 inch deep per almost 7 feet, that's a great deal and then right next door they are selling square steel tubes that of course you would have to paint, prime and assemble, they sell you the legs assembled and it's ridiculously expensive.

As much as the wood, this galvanized pipe was four feet long, cost nine dollars and a cubitanother two, so for $35 I bought all the hardware for this counter and all you need to do is be able to cut that steel now. you can use a grinder or hacksaw if you have to, at the end of the day it doesn't really matter, I'm rotten that I have the new evolution, I sob if you don't, it's the only reason they charge so much. A lot of money for that steel leg is because people have no idea how to design a proper way to join wood, so having a system like this in place is great for counters they like, but if you just wanted to buy some square steel.

You'd be surprised how cheap it is if you have the ability to cut it you can save a fortune so just so you can visualize this I'm going to have a nearly seven foot wide live edge solid wood countertop in the room we're in . I'm going to put together a couple of undermount basket shelves, it will look great, leaves a great open concept, you get that illusion of space, it's very easy to keep clean and replaces the need for a full vanity, now a live edge counter plus superior support. sink and faucet. I mean, the vanity for me will cost less than two hundred dollars.

Try to find a dresser for $200. Good luck. This is the way to follow. Sometimes when you go minimalist, you can save a fortune. We're done with this. Okay, now all we have to do is take them off the other threads, set them aside, install our drywall and we're just going to measure from the edge. Here, make a mark with our pencil so we can break a hole with Rotozip and then. the drywall is installed and everything is finished, we can go back and slide these rods back in, we are ready to mount our countertop, we can use the same clips below to attach the countertop to the rod nice and simple, so that It's the preparation phase, now let's go.

Check out all the steps needed to prepare the countertop, so I set up my laser level. This is going to be my center line, okay, and you can see it here, okay, so what you want to do is what you want. To take a look at your measurement, let's go with a 20-inch speed counter. What you want to do is just mark your mark on the wall, just make a 20 inch pencil marker on the laser line, you have one on each side, okay? We're going to mark on the drywall the back measurement and the front measurement off the center line, so from left to right, the left side on the back is 35 and 3/4, and on the right side on the later will be 32 and 3/4, okay, now do the same thing here and this is where the trick is you come here and you get your number here, so 35 and always a little smaller, it's safer that way. 35 minutes 8, okay, that's significantly different.

Yeah, look, this is oh. There's no such thing as a square wall, so you can't when you're cutting something that's no longer square, it doesn't have a straight edge, you have to start from a center line, so you're going to make the cut into this wall and then translate all this information to your wooden slab now the front here do the same there is a number there 33 and I will call it 1/8 okay now take this information so take your slab okay and go Let's drop your center line to the right and then what we're going to do is, even though the slab is shaped like this, we're going to cut from this corner something as square as we can here and then we're going to take the center line and we're going to translate all of these pieces of information on it and we'll cut both ends to fit the room, it makes sense, okay, beautiful, okay, I saw you, we can always buy another one if you mess it up, but I prefer or not, let's measure twice and we'll cut.

One time, basically what we're doing is we're taking this center line and we're measuring from this point, so the wall on the back, which is what it means on the left and the right and on the front left side BAM and the right. side and what we're going to do is take our slab, draw a center line on it and measure the four intersections so we can cut those lines and then we can cross the back and clean it up. We'll just drop that sucker right there when we're done, it'll be perfect, so we've got the counter on our bench, it's upside down because the hand saw cuts from the bottom cleanly and I've set them straight.

Border on the back that I am going to cut that represents where the wall goes. The live edge is at an angle, so I'm going to take an inch and a half off the board. No, this is not an exact science. I don't need a clue. I saw this and I'll tell you why because my wall is not straight and I'm going to be done at the end of the day once I make this cut to fit when the room is finished I'm ready to install it. then I'm going to take this countertop and put it on my rods and then trace the back wall so it fits perfectly, but that's after everything else is done, for now what we want to do is create a straight line and get started. the manufacturing process so I could measure from my center line and double the dimension of my room and cut the sides too.

There's no point renovating the entire slab, we just want to spend time sanding and finishing the part we're going to use now. what we want to do is measure the whole thing over 78 inches and make the center line be around 39 so now all I have to do is translate this number to my center line sorry so I can translate the numbers now, we're relatively straight here, so I've got a chance, here we go. I represent my center line, this is where it gets complicated. One of the secrets about working backwards is knowing the difference between left and right now, so when it's settled, I'll turn it over.

Well, this is my left side, this is my right side, so my left side in the front is 3508 from here because that's the front, this a little bit back, so I'm going to measure 3508 in the back, the front straight and on the back it's 35 and 3./4 and we're just going to translate this information that we took from the other room, then we can connect the dots and that will be our cut line, there we go, so before we finish, We'll take this in the other room. room and we'll actually place it in space just to make sure 33 yeah, these balls are really very, oh, okay, good idea, that's square, yeah, I live in a parallelogram once again, real quick, we'll just confirm this, that's my back, that's the fruit, this is still the left side 3508 yes, this is the front left side, back side 35 3/4 I got it, we'll cut the ends now I'm going to cut along the line, but I'm going to cutting down the Basically, I gave myself about a sixteenth of an inch of extra material.

It's easier for me to make sure everything fits nice and tight. If it's a little tight, it's easier to shave it. It's hard to make the countertop grow, so let's go. a little mercy and let's let our guard down here, so I'll go look and you say hello, we'll screw it. Now you can see the countertops intentionally a little larger than necessary. There are two factors here that we have to take into account one, we have not made any mud briquettes for drywall, so those corners will be built into this part of the wall, it has a small arch, this was not good enough and just draw it, there's our new cut. line that will make this perfect and then I will have Matt go to work sanding this surface and making it perfect, okay, okay, now I'm going to describe the cut made in relative terms, now it's the perfect size of the hole, no matter what. what you do at this point, you're going to need to make some adjustments with the cut leader, the proper scribing you need to do after all the drywall mud is done, sanded, primed, painted, but in the meantime we're going to go ahead and finish the countertop because This is a lot of labor, so we're just going to use a basic orbital sander and some 80 grit sandpaper to get rid of all of these factory dents, nicks, and scratches, well, whatever's left of the countertop. saw and then when we're done.

We'll sand this down with 180 grit sandpaper to get a nice smooth finish and then we'll apply the finish and show you that finish later. We're using a water-based flat finish and we're going to fill. lift up all the bark and apply three coats over this. Oh, this is going to look amazing. I should mention, make sure we have a good quality mask. I recommend these, you will see them on our Amazon page and you will collect all your powder in a container like this, what you can do is at the end we are going to mix this with a little bit of glue and we will actually make a paste that we can use to fill all these holes before switching to the last arena. paper and that way we will have a countertop filled with a nice finish and no indentations, it will be much easier, so I cut my drywall to the dimension of this face and now what I have to do is translate all this information. so the best way to do it is to just measure down, be nice and low, this is nine and a quarter times nine, okay, so the top number will be the distance from the left, the bottom number will be the distance down from the edge of the drywall and they should all be more or less the same now we take all that information and translate it to our drywall sheet and this is nice.

My wife surprised me today with mm-hmm my last sheet of drywall and she leaves me a love note on that pretty one. yeah I told him you had to use black marker now I have a huge special primer just to cover them oh okay down nine and a quarter there we go and just put a cross twenty five and a quarter. I'll also draw the relative size of the hole I need, so this is a 3/4 inch hole. This is a 3/4 inch hole. I am cutting larger than I need because I will be using cover extensions to cover.

This is all one and a half inch pipe, so 3/4 and so on, these are just 1/2 inch water lines. No, go get my rotors and we're drilling all these holes. Now you can always use drywall. Saw cutting a hole like this will force that sucker to move in frustration or you can check out a list of my favorite tools, grab one of these for a couple hundred dollars and you can cut drywall like nobody's business , be as creative as you are. I want to know what we need to do is line this up, so drywall is a relatively dense material, but if you put a hammer on it, you're only going to cause damage right at the point of impact, but if you use a piece of wood to distribute the With impact, you get all that force in a larger area and you won't damage your dremel, so in this situation I just need a little love to leave it done the same, you don't want to ruin your drywall, okay?

I'm going to lift this into position hmm, maybe not, now there's a fine line between giving something a little love with a hammer and trying to be overly aggressive like you're trying to lift this drywall. I have to close 3/8 of an inch. I'm tight here, so if I don't cut some of this off, I'm guaranteed to destroy myself, wolf. Well now when I go there I can step on it, that's something I can live with. much easier, take a little more hair, yes, beautiful, now just show it, no, we have that one up there on the counter, now go back, I tell you until you feel, let's eat it, sit on the thread And there's a bathtub on the counter, okay?

Wow now, this area over here is very easy to fill when we lift up the drywall mud. I'll just use a little bit of quixotic compound. Maybe just a little mesh will clean it naturally. There is no natural flange cover to go. on these is attractive so let's try to create a nice clean paint border, best we can get this out of the way for now so we don't have a nice Michelle loves Jeff yeah that's cheesy Brad okay so We've finished our first level of sanding here and you'll see some pitted areas where we have nicks and that kind of stuff real quick, if I just take my sawdust and rub it down, you'll get an idea of ​​what it looks like when it's all done, but that's just dust, there's nothing there to keep it there and it just sinks back in, so this is what we do: we're going to take some wood glue, we're going to remove the filter, there we go, that's enough and we're just going to make some paste, now wood glue on its own has its own coloration, but if you use the same powdered material and mix it with the glue and then use it as patching compound, you will have something that will fill the hole and be relatively the same color and will look much better now.

The reason I like to use sawdust is because it adds a little more filler to this material so that when the glue dries it doesn't shrink. so much so that we have another big hole back here to fill two or more, now this is not a technique, it's not like working with epoxy, okay the goal of this is to fill the hole so that when we add our finish we don't need to use five, six, seven coats of finish to fill these holes. We just make sure that every aspect of this wood that isn't perfect can be sanded, so we have a flat finish and then two or three coats of finish.

It will do the job, yes, that needs a little more. Here we go,okay, this is carpentry 101. It's not the sexiest video about filling a hole, but it sure works well. Come back to the 80-grit sandpaper in about 20 minutes. It's a quick check just to get all the glue residue off the surface of the wood and then we'll finish it off one more time with some 220 grit sandpaper to finish it all off. Oh, and then we can start the finishing process. Yeah here we are, we've actually done the second coat off camera, we're going to bring you up to speed, though what we did was we took our 220 orbital sander paper and we did a quick pass over the entire first coat and then we wiped it off with a rag in damp water just to remove all the dirt because generally speaking we were working on the dirty area now we cleaned the area and now we are ready for our third coat it's nice and smooth we don't want to use the orbital sander again because we have a nice clean surface, but what we do want to do is move on and usually most of the second is just sealing the wood with specialized software, so now we're going to use this product a lot and we'll start from the middle and we'll drag out because outside is where the dirt hides so what we're going to do is use this coat a lot here we go now this is a water based product.

I've never used it before, but it's from the same place you bought the wood and it was recommended to me, so I will always take a recommendation from a store that is specialized and use their products. Great way to expand your knowledge base. It's also a great idea since they are using that product on their wood on a regular basis so they have some kind of expectation of good results right now, just to give you an idea when you go to the hardware store. In stores you can buy natural pine that is available. I think they are selling designer furniture nowadays.

Everyone is getting into this market and at the hardware store a piece of pine like this will cost you a few hundred dollars, but interestingly enough, we went to an engineered wood supplier for this product, it's called Source Wood here in Ottawa, If you are in the area, okay, this particular pine countertop cost a hundred and sixty dollars and it is milled there, stored on site in controlled climate conditions so you don't have to twist or work, this slab is in perfect condition, It's over 20 inches wide, it's still perfect and you don't have to worry about it now, if you go to a box store, I don't know, generally speaking, you won't.

Get the same kind of quality and you won't get the same kind of customer service, that's for sure, and since it's half the price, it's a win-win, here we go, this code we're still going to be nice and thick, right ? and we're just going to go over it a couple of times to make sure that we get rid of all the extra drips because usually this is not going to soak in the same way that we're going to look more for that sheet of glass and the way that we're going to finish this layer when we're done , we'll come back with some 4-0 steel wool now, if you're not familiar with that rating when you go to the hardware store in the paint department, you'll find steel wool available in small packages, use about eight or ten packages in a bag and it will have everything from two zero two five zero and in the furniture finishing business, steel wool is very common because it can be spun so fine that it barely sands anything and you can use it to sand the finish.

You have glass like this on the floor or in a piece of furniture. Oh, here we go and what it does is sand. It's so thin that you can't even see the markings when you're on it. done and that's why you want to use it because you can apply something like four or five zeros in a topcoat over something like this and it will be smooth as glass. There is no such thing as applying a glass-smooth finish. You have to sand it to make it smooth like glass, so if you want it perfect, get a nice healthy coat here on the third coat, okay, run it down, make sure it doesn't drip when you're done, and then when it's done drying , take your Stillwell and just polish it with steel wool and it will be perfect every time since this is going to be in a bath and we don't want Berkeley to get damaged, ready for this, we're doing these three coats and we're soaking completely. the cortex, okay, we'll make this as bulletproof as possible just to make sure we don't have an accidental chip äj-- chip edge is that even a word, I think I just made a word, here we go, okay and So. here's the process, we're just going to put too much on here without any regard for our own safety, now you're going to want to apply two or three coats here as well and then when you're safe just pat it on. here with some blue fabric, okay, just pick up the extra, here we go, that will get soaked if there is a little left on the edge, it won't hurt anyone, it will dry well, but you definitely want to make sure that in this situation, I think that paint more is better, it's fine on the counter top, less is better because you get a better finish, but here we're trying to protect this crust, so more is better, wet it really well and then come. back it just catches all the drips okay this already has two coats and you can see it has that nice sheen even though it's a flat finish because it's absolutely saturated okay and that's the goal here we want a countertop that doesn't just be smooth like glass, flat, shiny and waterproof, we want it to be very hard and bark, as loud as we can so that our eyes soak this thing in there so it doesn't chip when people lean against it, basically, I'm just I'm going to finish this up and then it will be ready to install after we have the steel wall on that surface.

Hey, I love it, okay, we're at that point in the project where we have our drywall in our shop. The mud is done. The ceilings are painted with the first coat. frisco paint walls, which we hate, it happens sometimes when you have a space and it doesn't have the lighting done, you know you make your best decision and this is what happens anyway, it's supposed to look a lot more steel blue, but Here It looks sky blue, so we're going to paint again, but that won't stop us. Remember we took all these pipes, we're just going to screw them back on.

Now that we're done, as soon as I can find the sweet spot. there it is okay, twist problem, my own advice, go back, tell it you feel good, the reason this has so much weight is because in the threading we have five or six threads deep in this thing that carries an immense amount of weight, that's why this system is so amazing, just resist the temptation to hold the back of that, that will probably cut your hand off, okay, okay, here we go, we're at the door, so now You know, lie down there, go nice and easy, okay? take it right to the back wall right to the back wall I'm going to catch my exterior here is the best part about drywall hooray, it doesn't fit gives us a chance to show you a little tracing technique now this counter needs to go like this This way I can see a screw popping out, which means we're putting the drywall into the wall under a lot of pressure here.

I'm really tight in the back and I haven't even closed my gap yet so the front when I push this back it's going to open up even more which means it's probably perfect okay these carpenter pencils come with a side wide and one side thin for this exact reason that describes how you would see it and you just hold it against your surface and you can draw a line now when I do that, I'm taking an extra eighth. I'm still too tight, it won't be enough, so I'll go to the wide side and write this way, which gets me almost a perfect 2-0, okay, this is what we use.

If you need to enlarge it, you can even put your finger behind it and draw a straight line or you can take a piece of strap and put it against the wall or any other. flat surface is actually fine and you can follow the contour of the wall that way, the more P the wall is, the smaller the other thing you want to use to build will be, so if it really works, use a finger if it's relatively straight, use it. whatever is useful here we go further up you can repaint every ball oh yeah yeah you never finish painting a project like this until everything is installed using the brush scratches and wobbles great we don't have to beat everything up , so let's back up that far, we're not talking about a lot of meat, look, that's going to be fine, amazing, an eighth of an eighth of an inch from the flat side, you know, it's an inch on top and a quarter of an inch thick on center. of the caps on either half of the center LEDs in a corner, perfect, almost everything in life can be fixed with those two dimensions with a little acrylic latex putty, that's it, we'll lift it up and flatten it out. come here pipe there you go okay get something good back first look at this this is how to square all the lives is check your back okay perfect now this is our backsplash tile and here's a cheap stopper for me we're actually putting this one up as a backsplash herringbone backsplash, this is an incredibly rich countertop color, you'll want to check out that video below.

I'll link a description of the video, welcome to my world. I'm going to need the counter here now and we'll use these. Amazing clips, they are actually for conduit pipe, but they are the exact same diameter as the other side of the galvanized steel pipe. It's a great trick to know because it's available in the plumbing department, it's available in the electrical department at Home Depot and look at this. perfect fit, I mean, just amazing, especially working backwards, now we're using an interesting two-quarter screw. How thick is my wood? No problem well I was good to double check and make sure you're not going to drill the other side because that's really going to be a pain now I'm going to put the clip on the front and back of this because there's a protrusion because the counter it's inconsistent we cut it on purpose and there is a protrusion so we want to join the front and back the two outer tubes and the middle one don't need to be connected it's really relevant it's just there to help support the weight now we're going to go up an inch from the end just so you don't risk splitting the wood and the drill works great there too when you're working on your back this way get ready to make life simpler okay it hooks , that's not attractive luck, hey, we still have to finish this countertop, we still have to put the last layer on, I have a couple of tricks to get any glass-like finish, so let's get to that right away, here we go, ya It has two coats of finish and what we want to do now I mean make it smooth. okay it's nice it's sealed all that good stuff but it's not glass like now this is still okay it's a 4-0 steel wool I mean by that the package literally has a rating system of 3 a course or 4 zeros okay four zeros is great for polishing furniture, you can take this and put it on any piece of furniture and polish it and this is what you use on the countertop, this is what you use to polish any surface, lacquer, Vera Thames oil based, water based, no It doesn't matter if you use this to polish that surface, just a quick rub like this is all you need to tell you right now this is the difference between beautiful and not beautiful now, the other thing it does is it leaves little residue there, is it good?

I don't want to put another layer in there if you're going to have steel residue. Steel rusts and you don't want it caught in the finish coat, so grab your rags, clean it up, and throw it away. Okay, it's something like that. in heat, you clean it and throw it away and if you followed that procedure you will have no steel fibers left on the countertop when you come back to apply the last coat and again, like any other coat, start at the edge and work your way to the green. and just pull it in the middle this is going to be your third coat this is going to make it absolutely beautiful so the crazy thing is when this coat is dry you can get the same one it's still going to come back and give it a slight polish and now that you have three coats and the reason we waited to do the third layer until it was in place because we knew we were going to make some cuts right and we didn't want to have our final piece here until after the cut was done. so here we go nice and liberal now we're just going to drag and stretch this head is going to us here we go in this video I'm going to install a herringbone tile arm as a backsplash in this

modern

rustic

bathroom now it's two and a half by 24, so it's going to be some really delicate detailed work but I have a simple way to do it so stick with this and they'll show you all my tips and tricks and you can be on i/o master here because This product will officially be placed on a wall and not In a wet area, we will only use an adhesive.

This is omni grip. This particular adhesive is available at your local building store and has really good bond strength, so it has plenty of bond strength. to hold this tile in place on the wall, having said that we will use spacers just to help make sure allour grout lines to be very consistent, now I'm here, there is a number one secret when purchasing spacers for your tile job. two different sizes, I got one of 16 and 1/8, the reason why it is unique, sometimes in tiling you need to change the grout line to finish, so in this particular case we mentioned it a little in advance when We found that we could have a perfect herringbone finish on the edge of the wall if we use the 1/16 spacer.

Now if that doesn't work, I also bought the 1/8 in case I need it, but it's nice to have options. Now, of course, if you're a fan of the channel, you've seen my videos before, you know I love my laser and we're going to include it here. I already made my center line, you'll see it's in line with my box, which of course doesn't mean with the center of my light and I like to install everything very, very symmetrically, especially in a bathroom. In small spaces, you don't have the luxury of working from left to right, you have to start in the middle and work your way up. so now that I have my line established, that's good, the trick of course, and the spike is that it overlaps, so you have to decide what your center line is, is it the point or is it in the middle of the tile where It overlaps, that's the magic.

Visually that point will be the center whether you like it or not, so if I install my tile like this and like that on that center line, visually that's awesome. Okay, this is what happens here. Oh, perfect finish, and that's where we are. So the trick with the herringbone is that you don't want to start on the bottom row because that's all a little bunch of little cut pieces, you want to start with the full mosaic and you want to get the full dimension, all laid out and square it up, like this. so what we're going to use is some of these little wood screws, okay, and we're going to put some adhesive on the wall, put our first four slabs in place and use our frame. square because it's already a perfect 45 we're going to lay it on your level countertop and then we're going to install all of our stone based on that flush and flush with the counter and that's going to be my line okay so I can install that stone like that anywhere whatever you want and it will be absolutely perfect now so we can apply our adhesive, we are using this trowel here, this is a quarter by quarter square notch trowel, it does a great job of spreading a nice bead of adhesive that also doesn't put too much on the wall, so when you press the stone it doesn't come off in time.

Another thing to consider when you are doing a project like this is the total square footage of the space. we have twenty six and a half square feet from the ceiling counter so that's what we're going to cover so I bought exactly twenty six and a half square feet of stone the danger is that it won't be enough with everything small. cuts to cover the entire space, but I'm cheating to save some money because this stone was very expensive and I know my mirror is going to be that big. Well, I just drew it with my marker, so I don't need to.

Fill everything. I want to leave a hole in the wall here on purpose so I can run my cable to the box and I can run my low voltage power to the mirror so it doesn't fog up there. Come on, to start I'm wondering, just run the trowel in the general vicinity of where I know the tile will go and clean up as you go. Here we are going to do a kind of estimation for now. Well, we'll send our The tiles on don't need a little bit more, here they are and you'll see how it holds up, it really holds the tile off the counter without any difficulty, don't you know?

What I don't know is if this is a perfect 45 minutes. So that's what I have to take care of now and I always love to have some cardboard on my countertops when I'm working just to help protect my surface, okay here we go now. First I have to change my angle, that's my 45. Okay, rough there, but I want to place this on my center line, so now we're going to slide it. It's okay, almost perfect. yeah I'm really happy with this now the first few tiles are going to be the hardest and the most complicated keep everything nice and clean while you work because it's probably going to be a couple of hours before we get back to this area down here we don't want the tile to dry out glue builds up in the corners, it's hard to clean it up afterwards, like I said, we have our 1/16 spacers, we'll finish them now, let's continue with our pattern.

I want to take it from here and then up for so long, so this is where it gets interesting. Remember we talked about where the center line is on this and that peak is usually where the center line is visually which looks like the center, but the truth. It's the center is right here, it's in the middle of this, so when I put this on the wall, I'm actually getting closer to the wall by an inch and this tile doesn't fit, so I have to make a decision. Depending on the situation, if you have a traditional sink and a center faucet and you offset it a little, you will run into a design problem where it will look silly to have as many spouts on the sides of the faucet as you can.

Imagine if your faucets are here and they're all an inch apart, okay, it may seem silly, but for me, since I'm using a stone sink and my facets already offset my very large mirror, I don't really have a centerline problem. to deal with. What I'm going to do is send that off the wall and reposition all of my tiles so I can finish wall to wall centered for the full stone here as well. Wow, that will be amazing. I like that we're using these 116 spacers that are really hidden just to make sure that we have everything how we want now let's see how we put the last piece of our initial design here, like this is crazy the fact that this is going to work is crazy, like this let's just dip this in now, we know this doesn't happen all the time and this is a little crazy, but I have the perfect W, that's the new wow factor, okay, yeah, so we got lucky with the purpose. from this video, this actually worked very well in this particular situation, this is a five and a half foot wall, so consider that if you're going to get these twenty three and three quarter tiles.

Wow, I'll have to remember that math for In the future, this is a great design element. You know, if it doesn't fit, of course, you have to cut the edges on both sides to balance it because in this situation, let's say this tie was too long and I started with the full one. pieces there and this side has all the cuts, it would start to look a little weird so you really want to balance it out but you can see that my center line goes through both tiles because that's the true center even though the tip of the W made up anyway, that's just a little tip, let's keep playing with the sticker and of course the secret to doing this is to get some of these tiles into play first, you don't want to go too far filling them all up. the little fragments until you have your pattern established visually, it's very easy to make a mistake when you do this, so we want to start filling in all these spaces, okay, let's place the next rows at least here in this tile. it's actually against the wall and against the counter it's not going anywhere so we just need to continue with our pattern now send it nice and tight grab your spacer right there one down here and one here now I know this particular adhesive will work more of the job, but especially for now in the early stages, we want to be very careful now.

One of the benefits of using an adhesive here instead of cement is that it cleans up much easier. Well, you can come back tomorrow with a sponge and clean. all this extra adhesive, you can wet it and it will clean up and then you can grab it very easily without getting too much of that residue stuck between the tiles, okay here we go, we'll go to the other side again, did I mention? how much I love the max style, so the reason I chose this tile is because I was really looking for something with a little bit of oomph, something with a dramatic touch, well I definitely found it with these deep rich colors, it's just not I like to paint my bathrooms a dark color if I can get away with it, especially in a windowless room, so this allows me to keep my walls even a slightly lighter light gray and then put everything in. my drama on the short walls on both ends that makes everything really very pretty, okay Matt, we're going to turn on the wet side because the wet side does a really good job of cutting these edges.

I want you to take a piece of tile, cut me a series of triangles. Now, for this particular project, we will use unsanded grout, which is quite necessary whenever you have such a thin grout line. Now there is an option for them to have grouts that have a polymer additive that helps dry very quickly and is also a sand-free grout, but it is a little different and you really have to be able to work fast and in this situation I don't think I would want to. hurry up, so I'll be much happier working a little slower. with a standard grout and giving it time to dry properly, look and see that, so what I'm going to do is put a screw in here just to hold the weight so it doesn't slide under the weight like I'm building the mosaic, like this that one of the ways we're going to save material is I'm not going to fill much of this area here because it's all behind the mirror, but I need to get this memory online.

This side is taken care of now, if I cut this tile in half, put it, it's too short, so what I'm going to do instead is finish stacking them up to the ceiling, here we go, one of these tubs with this kind of trout It says about 20 to 25 square feet and it's designed primarily for the kitchen backsplash, which averages 18 in a weird way, so let's just roll with all that and continue here, so what I'm going to do It's and that's why I'm cheating so now I'm dropping my laser line in my corners to help me stay in one position.

Now when you use a wet saw to make the cuts it ends up with the same effect as if I am cutting and polishing the stone in the same motion so I can cut in both directions. I can actually line this up on the ceiling, not on the adhesive, with my grout line and then make my mark on my play stone right here, okay, that represents where the stone ends and then I just take my square, I'll draw that line with my marker and I'll have that stone cut for me and then I'll finish the entire exposed area up here in line with these cut lines. it looks really cool.

I'm going to have to trust myself on this one and see how it turns out. We really want to make sure that as we go along we always set that 90 degree corner and if it comes off a little bit, make a minor adjustment, okay? that's really good, so measuring and cutting is easy, always measure on the long side, so you place the tape and press it against the ceiling right where the slab will end. Can you take the measurement? You read 15 and a half. Translate that information correctly. our mark and then you check again by holding it back, okay and make sure you have an eighth more maybe even two, maybe it's a full quarter, there just put the difference in that grip line on the roof, edit the woman what is it.

Okay, so I'm going to take my triangle now. I'm going to draw the line I want to cut on the stone so he doesn't accidentally cut it. Okay, that's how you do it so that you always end up getting exactly what you should always make your line on the outside of the actual stone that you want to keep so that you can cut that perfect mark every time my next three are, that's what we're doing around the box and we're actually using a with a piece of porcelain and that gives us the ability to cut out all these fancy little shapes that we want to have as tight as possible to the box so that the lamp mounts on that and doesn't let's have no holes that show to make it look like that's going to work very well, here is this stone, yes, there is proof that by keeping everything square or worse, I can find the pattern after the fact, like I said, this is all behind the mirror, so I don't worry about that piece, right? there, when you're filling a space like that, instead of trying to put the sticker on the wall first, you can always put it directly on the tile.

It's okay, you'll just have to be a little careful, you don't want to leave too much in there. and get it tight like I said this is not a wet area so 90% coverage is not necessary just make sure you put enough on so it really sticks to the lerigot that's what I'm looking for okay , so I'm just putting a couple of my leftover pieces near the top because I need to have stone under my lamp, okay, let's get it all nice and flush. If you're going to put the glue on the tile first, make sure it's nice and flush, okay, squeeze it all out. together and then you can open them up when you're done, create that big space, there we go, once it's tight like this, it's going to hold up really well, oh, let's give it a little bit of extra support. use the head of the screw, show you a little secret here by coming at an angle here, just below the head of myscrew, it actually lifts the weight, it will actually pull it nice and tight so that the next piece goes here in the pattern. and then here so I actually want to measure from here to that ceiling this is one of these situations where not everything is square so my tile is perfect 45 my pattern is perfect I end up with zero space for hero here and I don't want that that looks, so I'm going to trim this angle, it's just going to close a little bit once I've cut it, so it's going to be hard to know exactly what measurements my length is.

In some situations, especially in these inside corners, so I think it's seventeen and a half. I'm going to cut it into seventeen and five eighths and I can bring similar measurements. It would lean down. I love it so now I know it was actually here. where I want to cut, so here we are, we have this situation at the top and you have two options to do this kind of thing, what are we going to do, we're going to take our pattern, that's our pattern, okay, and they're the place it on the counter, place our outline and then we're going to measure, we're going to measure the bottom of that line there and that one comes in four and three eight four and we just put our tile together and then draw our line, let's start with four and a half on the mark of the corner and then we'll run our ruler across both stones at once that way, when you cut this, you'll have ended up a nice straight line if you measure each of these individually.

You're going to mess up that joint and it will show, so when you get to an area like this, you can take three, four or five stones, all on the pattern, measure the other side, draw the straight line and cut all those cuts at the same time. time, that will really speed up the process and get you a perfect cut, but the most important thing is to make sure the grain of the slab is going in the right direction. If you're not careful, just use a snip and you'll be done. up with a grain it always goes in the same direction it always looks weird from a distance it's amazing how a small detail like the grain of that stone can make such a big difference that you are very careful with the corners of the drywall because they don't go to be perfectly 90 I like to put a little bit of adhesive in the middle of the stone so I can balance it and move it around so it's nice and smooth, well there we go, that's going to look pretty good now listen, I didn't understand that this is not a Complete wall finishing the wall is simple, but I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't going to have difficulties from not having enough stone, so I have to make a hole in the wall here anyway because I'm going to Bring this transmission here for my heated mirror , so the next thing is I'm going to draw everything, we're going to let this dry and then we're going to shred it as well, so stay tuned because we're going to capture this in this video because we're going to show some tips and tricks for doing that kind of thing and how you can finish a look and if you like this type of content, make sure to subscribe to the channel, don't forget if you are interested in learning a There is a lot about renovations and you have some big projects coming up.

We have a membership program, so I hit the join button. Check out. Nowadays I am much more available to people who are looking to get a lot of information. They have questions about. your own projects okay so I'll see you in a couple of hours or in your case just to spend a few seconds we'll get back to the grout now here's a special message for everyone looking at this wall and wondering what the hell we're going to do. hanging a huge mirror here and I need access to this rope because this is my fear line for my low voltage wire that goes to the heating system behind my mirror so it doesn't fog up so the reality is I could have installed the mirror. first and actually tile it, but that would look a little ridiculous and it's easier to work this way.

This way I can keep my lines perfect. I can fill all my spaces and I'll look really perfect when I'm there. In fact, this is why I did what I did, you don't need to install tile here, I needed to have this hole as it won't be a perfectly finished wall no matter what I do, it's just the way I roll anyway Anyway, we've been there for a few hours and the glue is completely dry. One of the benefits of using a high performance adhesive is that it can grow at the end of the day. no delay just ryan weird ok usually i pick them up and then put them away put them back in the package they came from i have a pair of pliers on hand if any of them are giving you any trouble because they're actually embedded in a bit of adhesive , then you can pull them like this, no big deal, the process here is pull the plastics, wash it, make sure we don't have any adhesive on the surface or stuck in the corners and then we go. put our grout in and wait about five or ten minutes and then we'll wash it right away and then we'll see how it looks good.

One of the benefits of the herringbone is that all the tiles are already at 45 degrees, so all you have to do is go up and down the left and right straight lines clarkey you have all the angles at the right time and of tiptoes don't forget that one of the advantages of having all the paint finished about two days old is that you can wash the grout as part of the process without damaging the walls, one of the reasons why the tile guy is the only one who arrives at the construction of his new house before the other floor guy arrives, so he goes after the painter, which is awesome and Of course, because this is a 1/8 grout line or sorry 1/16, we are using a sand free route, the gaps will be too small for the growing sand to work, now I'm going to finish on my roof with the concave part of the float, the goal here is to leave some cream filling that space and then I'll use translucent or clear silicone on top so you don't have an ugly silicone line, here we go.

I really want to make sure I fill all the little gaps up there and use that process that I just discovered when you put heavy silicone on a white ceiling, it looks like garbage because the ceiling is flat, the silicone is a shiny weight, so using clear silicone on Instead of white it just gives you a better look, it makes the tile work like a star and doesn't draw attention to itself, it's funny, next thing you know you're OCD, this truth is I only need to grow a foot. perimeter on the other side of this thing, so you'll ever see well, so when you're done, make sure you wipe it off with the growth layer as best you can.

It makes it much easier to wash the towel afterwards, obviously this is not a complete tutorial on how to grow it, but you might like to see one. We will have a link to a video in the description below. We have a complete description of how to grow it. We did it in a bathtub, shower, great video, lots of information there, if you are learning how to do all of these things for the first time, not once, then they grow when you mix them thickly like I just did, it has a benefit that you can see from immediately if you're careful, although just one pass if I've seen it more than once, you'll see all the dye washed out of the mixture and it won't be the color you thought it should be now that we're washing, there are still a couple of things that have.

To do we need quality control, so you take a little drop of your goat that's left over from your bucket and you really want to go through this really small area, concentrate really hard and not just look down, actually go down, get right under it, see . Here we go, okay, so take this a little bit, just blend it out, there's one, leave it messy, here we go, okay, now I'm just letting it sit for a few minutes to set up and then we'll come back and clean up. and the reason you make it this ugly is so you can find out later, nothing worse than coming back and leaving.

Oh, I missed a bump because you'll have to sand it and mark it later. It's a lot of work, so let it go. messy, give it five minutes, clean it up, and then when all the grout is nice and dry on the surface, you can go back and forth with your clear silicone and seal all four edges whenever you change the plane of the surface you want. to add a little silicone and when everything is finished the backsplash will be ready, I tell you to always hang the similar mirror, ready, it's very human here for some reason, it always seems to be raining when we do a Groucho, amazing, like this that we are.

I'm going to put a fan here and blow this up for a book ten fifty ms. Dry the surface so we can show you how to finish this. So in today's video I'm installing a huge mirror on a tile wall. What's good about it? it's the fact that it will have a heating system behind it so it will never fog up from being showered, so really all you need is for everyone to already know, you can check it out on Amazon, we have our link in the description, you can buy one there and some painter's tape, a couple of measuring and cutting tools, it's not that complicated, I'm just going to throw a piece of tape on the back of my mirror because I want to get all my measurements, okay?

I place my mirror on my counter and I can measure my space up to the ceiling. I am 23 inches. I also have a light here so I want to double check if I divided the difference 11 in half it's too close so I'm going to leave a 12 inch clearance at the top which makes an 11 inch clearance at the bottom, so I'm going to go + 11 inches from where I'm sitting, and my mirror comes with these two hangers and what we're on. What we're going to do is just use a simple oil plug system, we're going to drill the flange, install a couple of these wall plugs and each one of them will hold 80 pounds, so that's not going to be a product and now the trick here is to get it centered so what I want to do is put a measurement on my mirrors 48 mark my center on the mirror and I want to measure my wall it will be 68 and a half or 34 and a quarter and I recommend writing down each of your numbers as you go now I know that the center line is approximately below this center of this box because we also centered it, so 34 and a quarter we'll go here.

I'm going to mark my center line and there we go, so that's This is going to be my center line. I measure from left to right, so now physically I'm going to line up my center line with a mirror roughly where it's perfect and I'm going to take some masking tape, now I'm going to put it on the wall right above my limbs, okay? I know I'm going to measure plus 11 inches from this will be the top of the mirror and that's what we want the top of the mirror plus 11 inches to be. Okay, now we're going to measure down on each side because we don't know. if the mirror brackets are actually hanging level then on the right side it's 4 inches, on this side it's a little bit more so that 4 inches translates here because we're going to rotate it, this will be the height where I would put my hole and here they will measure me 4 inches and a little.

Now I have no idea why I have a laser level involved with this. Now, once again, let's work away. center lines to measure our locations here, okay, so I put my tape measure there, it's twenty-two and three-eighths, so I'm going to measure from here twenty-two and three-eighths, right there it's twenty-two and one-quarter, so it's important to do that. this now, at the end of the day, if your measurements are off 32 inches or so, it's not the end of the world, okay, here we go, we're going to put this on low speed and on a hammer drill because I don't like it. to waste time yeah I'm going to burn the bed a little prematurely but I like to get things done look at that and that's a perfect point here for years people have been telling me you know you can't use a glass and Tile bit at the top Peas with hammer drill I mean why doesn't it work?

It's fast, yes it's a little loud, but it bothers Jen. I wear hearing protection. Here we go. I use a quarter inch and a quarter inch tile and glass drill bit, and this one. Here it is from Bosch, it is quite decent, it has a little life left in it. We will use it to hang a glass door in our shower. Next, let's go. Now I buy my plastic wall plugs with the screws and the same kit, so I know they are going to work, they have a nice big head, it will clip onto that, no problem, that's fine, tape measure, I love it, this is my go to rubber hammer as far as depth goes, you just need to have enough space between the back. of the screw head and the tile so this fits snugly and I'll help keep the mirror in place so don't leave it hanging too much okay now because we're making videos here.

I still have to install it. my sink on my faucet and if I mount this mirror first, it will be very difficult to do that job, so we'll put this aside to finish the plumbing a second time. We'll end this video right now. Well, then our electrical inspector came. Yesterday he popped his head in quickly, took a look, checked the space on the floor mat and everything is in order, so he approved the installation, he asked me an interesting question, although he asked me if the thermostat had a sensor . cable too, so I wasn't sure andI opened the box and sure enough now the installation instructions do not call for installing a second sensor but he gave me that advice that since the most common failure is the sensor if you have a second one install it in advance in case the first fail, then you can change the wiring in the box to go to the second sensor, so we run that second line and now they are both installed, we are ready to put it in. our floor, so here we go now, luxury vinyl plank is different than the lower cost final pest, which is very easy to just score and tear with a knife, okay, we will demonstrate three different cutting techniques, well , actually, one, two, three, yes, us.

We'll show you five different tools that you can cut these things with today so you can use what you have available at home or you can choose to go out and invest in something if you're going to be doing a lot of flooring now. Traditionally this type of flooring is what I would call beginner level installation because it is just measured correctly, all you have to do is mark it and go ahead and install it. Vinyl flooring does not expand with heat and humidity. I'm so tired of hearing that. throughout the industry and then this is going to be controversial because, when the first one came out, the advice was to tell everyone, when they asked, to treat it like a laminate floor, but it is not like a laminate floor, the reality is that this product It has an expansion of something ridiculous like less than half of 1%, so in my world that's zero expansion because I don't have temperature fluctuations that cause that kind of thing to happen, even though I'm heating the floor.

We are worried about this buckling, so today we will install this tight to the wall. We will not use clips. We will not use spacers. We're not going to get weird. We are simply going to cut and measure as you see. What we do is we line up, we have a tongue and a groove. We will make sure that the slot is always facing outwards. It's much easier to install that way. This is our water line and we're just going to mark it with a marker where that line is and then I'll have an idea if I cut the first inch right, you don't even need a tape measure for these people, just go ahead and do that now, the easiest way. easy to cut this is actually with a jigsaw and you just put this on a little platform and you can cut it without any problem.

Let me give this to Matt. Matt is helping me today. Okay, now in the next table we're going to want to stagger our joints. We're going to want the next joint to be about a foot away, so I'm going to take a foot off this board because we're going to demonstrate the score and tear technique and see how well it works or doesn't work on the luxury vinyl just use your little squares and it's good to have a guide for your knife so you don't accidentally cut your thumb and the trick here is to turn it over and then press, okay, no, I'm just giving you an idea here that gives you a decent head start, no one will know.

He'll complain about it and it can be quite useful, but if you're not really strong you might find it difficult and I have it on hand for a little later. No that's perfect now this type of floor is what we call a floating floor installation okay you just put it on and it stays there it's really simple now the next piece we're just going to fit it so we can measure now if you've been following this series. Right off the bat you know we put this orange mat and this floor piece right at the beginning to set the height of our transition, our little metal edge coming out of the slab and the secret here is you want to cut. the floor under the metal on the stone so we're not going to cut here we're going to cut behind because it's going to slide right underneath so we set it up for a measurement slide the floor up to the shower pan and then take it off about an eighth of an inch because it doesn't He wants this when he walks to rub against this.

When we're done, we'll add a bead of silicone to hold everything in place, but we prefer now. how are we going to do the same thing here we're just going to measure, make a mark there because that's where the wall is behind this dream and I'm just going to take my trusty little square and draw my lines, I'm going to send this to this Here we go, now hand it to Matt. He cuts the jigsaw and he will show you how well he cuts it. Okay, no, the easiest way to put this floor together, just to put it at an angle and then slide it out. it sits in that slot very easily okay just below where we have it there not because we want to stagger the floor I'd like to go with at least three panels so that's about a third the next one we're going to go through about half the distance so I can just put this back and then measure this which ends up being the mark where you're going to cut so that the cut goes against the finish our pan and that's where the silicone goes here we go there you go you just put it in the slot and place it here's my next piece over here here's my group sitting I'm going to flip it where it goes and then I get my mark and I'm going to mark that somewhere between 1/8 and 1/4 of inch, sigh just because rooms are never square and that will make life easier now here you just set the end Alright, when you are cutting around the toilet flange you really want the floor to be as tight to the flange as possible .

The best way to do this is to just measure a midpoint based on this line here, so that's for my toilet flanges and I'm going to put a mark there. Now this will all be under the toilet so you don't have to worry at this point and also come here, okay, and come here where it's flush. front and this mark where that flange is there's no toilet flange it's about seven inches in diameter so I can go from line to line mark my three and a half and that becomes a pivot point so what I do is I put my knuckle on the pivot point, reach out with my marker, okay, find my spot and you'll see this works pretty well most of the time, okay, here we go, take the saw cut relative to that pickle on somewhere in the middle will probably work.

Get it real good, that's funny man, pick a line, okay, here we go, get into the groove, it just falls into place now, this is one of these situations if life doesn't treat you kindly and cuts you a little bit in most cases when you add something new. floor of your house, the toilet flange will be too low for proper toilet installation and will add a flange extension ring, some type of pool system, so you will have to chisel the floor back to expose all that ring of Vinyl is great to work with, it's easier than wood, okay you can take any hammer and chisel and if you need to take it out you can do it, sometimes having the basic old tools is really good, so now let's measure a little bit to fill at the end and it's very small, here we go again, take 1/8 off a quarter now just for fun, we'll show you what it's like to try to cut this out with the score and fit technique which is a lot of work and that's dangerous.

Wow, now I'm going to show you a couple of other tools that were invented that make life easier. Well, I'll put a fake line here and then I'll have Matt. You show the world that we have two different thieves floor cutters. One here is a commercial unit that I've used a lot for many years and it cost about $400 and William, wow, that unit, I don't know tens of thousands of feet of flooring. with the other ones, when I bought them on Amazon not long ago, we made a special video showing how good it was perfect for the owner if you're just doing one or two rooms with 60 bucks from the same company - a little runt. system, but it works a little more manually, it's more demanding, but it's a lot easier than scoring, here we go, okay, you put the mark on the other end so it works fine, okay Han, that's the $60 tool that it cuts and it works, but it's It's a lot easier with the good one and now with my old $400 tool, that was easy, so here we just have to finish translating this information.

For the rest, you can use your Square and just measure the space I have about two inches. so, but it's two inches wide, so we'll finish drawing this little circle, okay, we'll send it to the puzzle, okay, here we go, I'll line it all up on the grid, slide it nice and tight in there. Come on, that's amazing. I'm going to put some more pieces in here, so all of these end pieces that I cut I save, I turn them over and I like to keep them as a reference to fill out my rows if I can. use it all so this will be a perfect opportunity to use this piece right now here we go we'll make that cut so there are two basic theories on how to install this floor one you put the piece in and you bring the next one. piece, but put the back end, okay, staying below the rest of the floor and that helps make sure that that joint is locked in tight and then you have to lift everything together and then force it in, that's a good joint. the other way to do it is to just put the runner together depending on the size of the room, this might be easier, it might be difficult, put together the runner first and then lay the whole row at the same time.

My experience with this type of floor. is that someone is almost impossible, you will find that with vinyl it is too flexible, with laminate flooring you can get away with it, but with vinyl it seems too difficult to work with unless you have two or three people working with it, so I like to position my butt joint well, honestly the first few rows are the hardest, once you can get to the other side of the floor then you are in a position where you can just lift and smash, for all of you It doesn't have a table saw, you can still use this if you have a jigsaw, you can cut floors, you can cut anything, this is the technique I use all the time, you just hold the saw still and run the floor through the sheet, here we are.

Wow, perfect every time and of course you can always use a circular saw to cut almost anything if it's plugged in, now we have power here. Very sharp grip, okay, depending on where you are and what situation you are in, you may have a door. Already installed, this is new construction for me when I am doing new construction with vinyl flooring. I put the doors last because everything fits nice and tight. I don't have to cut around the molding. I do not have to. I use caulking. My door jamb sits right above the floor and that's perfect, like I said, I'm not afraid of expansion and contraction because it's not going to happen, okay, nice piece of vinyl.

I love these ends, they just fell into place, here we go. This floor is nicely finished, so now I showed you how to install the floor and the heating system, but we're not done yet because whenever you do a project like this you have to trim it too, so. I'm going to show you very quickly my favorite ways to install baseboards and so you don't have to do a lot of tinkering, it's very quick. I am going to show you another system to fix the toilet flange and adjusting the height of the toilet flange is part of the installation of your floor, if you do not consider it, you will have a big disaster when trying to install your toilet and it will not seal properly, so so before i show you all of my finishing tips and tricks, i just want to thank mohawk floors, the company zenit floors actually supply the flooring for this project and they are an online flooring supplier so you can go online.

I'll put the link in the description below and you can check them out. I think you can give free flooring samples in your home to make sure you have the right colors and textures. They have the entire line of luxury vinyl products so if you are having a hard time finding good quality vinyl in your area then This is definitely a resource I would recommend so for anyone who has had flooring done before realizing in a bathroom, especially half the job is laying the floor and the other half is finishing it all, so I'm going to share with you my Tips and Tricks today.

This is just an MDF plinth. Comes with a primer. It really only needs one coat of finished paint, but if you use a nail gun to stick it on, you'll have to do all kinds of patching on everything else. You go absolutely crazy because you're going to have to get out a compressor and shoot the nails and then you have nail putty if you use this adhesive here and it's just what it says, no more nails, that product over there. It's just an adhesive to install the trigger, are you ready for this? Now you have the trims installed and if you are in a hurry and want to finish the product quickly, get this product, this is Alex's quick dry, okay, this is not the typical one.

Cocking doors and windows, typical things take almost two hours to set up before you can paint them, these things are twenty minutes, the way you involve it is to simply put an angle on the tip and then just pull it out to fill in the holes that Tomas. a damp sponge and that's it, in twenty minutes I can come in and start painting, then it will take me about 20 minutes to cut out the whole room, so yeahI start in one corner when I'm done trimming I just pick up my brush and I have to finish the painting and then I'm done and when you're done your paint job you can put some pure white silicone on go to the inside corners and just fill in the corners and We're done okay now for the plumbing we're going to use what's called a pipe flange cover this is a split pipe flange cover and this is in case you already have the plumbing if it's copper and you already have one Closing valve.

On top of this, you can't slide it over the top because that's exactly the diameter of the pipe and it looks really nice, but yeah, if you already have the shutoff valve there and I use Sharkbite for this reason, it's that simple, okay? ? Come on then this split pipe flange is the solution for you, it has a little fold and you will see it, and the chrome will split and you can wrap it around your pipe and put the split on the back. so that no one sees it and you have a perfect decorative finish in seconds, we don't need it because the toilet lift will have the right adjustment for the next trick, it will save you a lot of time and more than this time this will save you from a flood when working In the trade, the number one callback was for leaky toilets.

I can't even tell you how many hundreds and hundreds of toilets, oh it's crazy, and these are professional plumbers and they sell and stuff, but they're all cheap, but since this is your house, you're not going to cheat, here's a solution that will work great for you, ok this comes with a small bolt extension pack, this is a PVC ring, it is the same material as the toilet flange is already made and has the same holes lined up here, it works perfect for putting the bolts in, so put the extra long bolts in place, line them up so it's a little bit parallel here, okay, before you put this in. ring, put this sealing gasket on top, this is where everyone misses it.

I have seen so many plumbers come in and try to use silicone or something else. It always fails. Incredible. Flawless. Failure. No, we're staying. Put this ring on and we're going to pull it almost to the point because you wanted to have a little bit of flexibility with this. Okay, no, at this point you can take screws and screw this flange on, that's definitely an option and then the other thing. It comes with these holes already made. This is a rubber gasket for the toilet to sit on. Well, this is awesome because it's made for situations like an older house if your toilet is here and your house is moving in the winter. there is a little movement here and there and the toilet may be tight like this and then one day in old houses like this the floor is constantly moving with this type of seal no matter what happens on top the toilet is compressed. and then grows back to maintain the seal.

If you use wax and you press that wax, if your toilet moves a little, you have broken the seal and water can leak, so this type of gasket is not perfect for the solution for older houses the secret you want to know is this, yes, the new ring has to be higher than the floor, okay, just an eighth of an inch, okay, you can't slide your square through the ring, it's too low. so get an extension make sure you're three inches off the ground and then there are other extension packs available for more dramatic situations, they're half an inch and a quarter inch high and they can be stacked together and they have more of those together too, but this is the situation, as long as you do this, position the toilet correctly and tighten with the bolts, everything will be fine and that's how you install the floor, right?

Replacing the toilet is the most important part of any floor installation. Well in today's video guys we're going to install this beautiful stone sink, you know it doesn't have an overflow system now so it requires special plumbing so stay with us. We're also going to put in the faucet that goes along with that, we're going to hook up all the plumbing underneath so you can finish the bathroom vanity yourself, so when you install the plumbing for the vanity sink, there's really only one thing. What to worry about and that is aesthetics, what does it look like?

So what we've done is we've just taken our center line that I've measured, put my square there and I'm going to mark my center line on my tape and I'm going to put a lot of tape on it and now I'm going to go back right over that center line. Now what I do is place the sink on the counter knowing that I am in the center. The question is: do I want to move forward or backward? this particular sink goes with this really cool waterfall faucet and the idea here is that this is our guest bathroom, it's really just designed for occasional use, washing your hands, brushing your teeth, that's it, we're not going to wash the clothes here, so it weakens.

The faucet set benefits from water basically cascading into the sink and then I can position it at this angle. I like it. I think I like it better aligned in the center of the hole. That seems good to me. Okay, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to take my marker and I'm just going to put a mark under the center of the location that I like and that's going to mark where I'm going to place my drill bit to drill my hole. I also like the fact that this is forward a little bit so you can I'm not reaching to the back of the counter and I'm actually going to draw a full circle for my drain.

Okay, as for the drill bit. I'm going to need a working pilot. This is small enough for it to sit. my holes because I have to drill from above and from below and I will get into this in just a minute and I will need a couple of serious pisses. I'm going to need this bad boy here, this one here now, if you I've never seen this before. This complete sock is absolutely amazing. It will save your life when you have to solve problems. This is the type of tool that you want to have on hand, so all of these pieces have self-feeding tips and the trick is that I want to drill a hole on the top and a hole on the bottom that are different thicknesses and we'll go in in the assembly and the reason why in a minute let me drill my pilot hole through the wood to have all of this and I'm just dealing with pine so this is really so here's my sink drain assembly sir , explain how it works in a second, this is actually the drain and this part threads on nicely, so we'll set this aside for a minute and here are my washers, now this cardboard ring is pretty vital, this is the piece which goes at the bottom, and this is what causes the compression of this gasket at the bottom of my stone sink, okay, that cardboard ring, it's actually what transfers that pressure to this and I'll explain it if I just had This here without the cardboard ring, is it threaded?

It's not straight, it's actually at an angle, so there's going to be more pressure at this point than at the back. There's a gap, and when you do that under pressure, it actually causes the joint to bend like this, okay, and when the gasket bends under pressure, it leaks. What this cardboard ring does is create an environment where there is no friction. pressure so you don't jam the rubber when you squeeze, so if you could throw this away and think this unusually useless packaging you're making a big mistake, you're going to get into a lot of trouble, so keep it handy, okay?

Another white foam thing, it's not packaged, it's actually the joint, it compresses almost to nothing, okay, I just have a little worm that needs to be mixed in, so what we're going to use here is their pipe joint compound , okay, this is it. It's old, but one of those lasts you a long time, but the point is that this Teflon tape is more of a lubricant, it's a sealant, so what you do is you always go backwards so you feel like you click and then you go forward. You're not cross-threading and you tighten it there really nice and visible, okay?

You can get rid of the excess, here we go, trash. I missed a big surprise, huh, so now that we have the whole assembly together, we just slide it in. the sink is fine up to here and then we want to place the washer on this part in front of the sink, the flat part in front of the washer is fine and we're going to try to slide it into position as best we can before tightening everything up, okay this. It's just a giant nut, okay to hold this drain on. I'm just going to put my screwdriver in the overflow section, which doesn't matter, okay, this sink doesn't have one, here we go, I'm just going to lift this up so it looks nice. and tight, you know that's the tightest I can do it personally, I can't have my key, Matt, okay, here we go, this is really the only chance you'll ever get to tighten this, so it's no time to be shy now, since we're dealing with two joints, when you put all your effort into it, then you know you're done, if you don't have a lot of upper body strength, you can get a pipe wrench, that's a much longer bench you have . a lot more leverage, okay, this is not the part where it's hard to hold the upper body, it's not hard to put pressure on that rubber gasket, it's where you need strength, so get some upper body strength or use a longer pair of pliers or a pipe wrench so you can really get a good grip on it, to be honest if your wrench were three inches longer that almost doubles your strength, it's a little crazy but that's the power of leverage, This is a diamond, we'll put it aside and get it. ready because what we have to do is drill a hole in our countertop that is wide enough for this entire assembly to sit flush.

It's two and a quarter inches wide, so I grabbed the drill that's two and a half inches wide. and what we're going to do is drill this bad boy all the way out because we don't have any connection here that attaches it to the counter other than gravity and the bottom of the stone and we're just going to install it with silicone, believe it or not, like this I like to have a small file on hand. I actually keep this in my kit with my sauce just because when I'm drilling holes I'd like to make sure it's nice and sharp, okay? come on, we'll put this on normal drill and slow speed because there's a lot of torque here, okay now that I'm starting to cut, I'm going to go in reverse just for a second and that makes sure that it's not causing any splits that are going to break on my counter now we're ready and just a little bit of rotation helps make the hole a little bigger than the drill bit and helps keep it from heating up well now instead of going through the On the other side I know a soft wood will split and make a mess , that's why I pre-drilled the hole I'm going to come out of from below.

Now I finish this hole from down here. This faucet is a bit of a different scenario. Okay, we have to do it too. drill the hole for the faucet. The standard faucet hole is a quarter size and that's fine, but that's at the top. Here's the other consideration: how thick the threads are. This is a two inch thick countertop. Okay, so when I take two inches off of this, down to the last thread, which means the hole on the bottom side needs to be wide enough to be able to put this underneath, which is my locking mechanism, so if I want that my locking mechanism is at least held on with some threads so I want to make sure I have drilled from the top to about an inch and a quarter and then I'll go the other way to set up my lucky straightener so as I drilled all the way through , I'm going to do the same.

The bottom hole first are the bits that are already in the drill and we're just looking to go in about a half inch right there, now the diameter of the pipe that goes to the hole is an inch and a quarter, that's an inch and a quarter of the diameter of the part that's on top is three quarter inches so I'm using a drill bit to make my life easier that's inches and a half and we're going to drill all the way through yeah and this one has a trend with the number of software for these.

The threads will gum up, okay, if you wanted to go straight to putting pressure on the middle of the drill behind you from up here, if you're pushing with your hand, you're always going to be turning, so keep it with this one, but push. from above full of sawdust here, as a result, the threads no longer pull, so let's clean that one more time now it should be enough to finish this Oh, beautiful, okay, so let's put this here before putting the Same thing lifts my lines of water and I'm going to connect them. It is important to remember that when you look into a faucet, hot water comes out of the riser and these lines are marked with red and blue stripes.

Okay, they also have a gasket so you can tighten me here, don't use a wrench, okay, we can put this in here for a quarter turn, maybe just make sure they're secure now, most faucets have a gasket that It sits here at the base of the tower. Well, sure, make sure it's in place and we run one line and then the other. Okay, that will work fine before you put it in. We want to drop the stone sink. Okay, this is a situation where we're going to use our structural clear silicone, okay, this is a new flexible cone.

I love this product. I use it on all my wet areas all the time. These tubes are amazing. I buy them from my commercial supplierbecause I can change the tips properly when it gets full and dried on you, just change the tip for a new one and you will be back in business. Great, now look at the diameter of my sink here, that's amazing. I'm literally going to put a bead of silicone around the hole to make sure that the water that splashes out of the sink stays on the counter so I can take care of my maintenance and then I'm going to do this just to help secure it in place , that's all good, here goes everything, yeah, here we go, so now we need to put in our assembly lock assembly, okay, the idea of ​​putting all that on top of the sink base, yeah, that's going to work fine and then our Lock ring is incredibly important, especially in this situation where you borrow your own hole, that hole won't be perfect. flat, we're just going to set this up, lift it up and let me back up until we fill it, click there, go now let's squeeze it, you know, this is the point where we have to make sure that the tap is pointing directly in line with the dream , okay, now I'm going to hold it still while I turn these clamps.

No, I don't have to tighten too much here because we actually used the screwdriver to tighten the clamp. It's okay on both sides. Bright. Okay, so here. We're just going to use the sponge to remove some of this residual drywall paint compound, it looks thick, it's not weird. Thanks on the show, we're going to install these decorative caps and a couple of shark bite latches, now it's not a little tip, just use your key. to secure your pipe while you push your shirt in with the valve, okay here we go, okay now there's a cool little gadget that's on the hinge and actually fits around the ABS pipe.

It's not perfect, but it's not bad to create a decorative lid around it. A drain pipe will work in a pinch to close those ugly holes in an exposed area, so the next process is to assemble the drain, it's a piece of cake, really what we're going to do is set our height now. this piece of pipe coming out of this wall is not glued, that's fine, it's just there to trap possible sewer gases in the middle of construction and what we want to do is make sure that when you measure you have just a minor slope, a level of degree is okay, hold this here and let's get to the dimension from the countertop to the bottom here and that represents the total rise that we have to have in our plumbing, okay, so it's nine and a half inches, this is the fixture that goes to a tube and a half. an inside and a quarter here, which is almost all the vanity drains in the world, is a drain and a quarter of the kitchen sink is a drain and a half, so when you buy this fixture make sure you buy 1 and a half for one and a quarter because the kitchen pieces are one and a half by one and a half and that will cause problems, so for the bathrooms they are one and a half by one and a quarter and I can be so tall or so short so I have a little movement here, so just to make sure I have flexibility, I'll start in the middle, so what did I say?

Nine and a half here, yes, for that pipe to cross and put an identification on it. and then ninety around here, okay, boom, all the way here and I'm going to set it to nine and a half, so nine and a half is my total tube, all the way to this Ridge, so I'm going to take my microphone, I mean you. I could simplify this a bit. I'm taking the total increase I need, which is basically nine and a half inches. Okay, I'm going to come here and measure from this ridge here, where the inside pipe inserts are, two and five. half gives me a seven inch pipe, so let's cut it out and install it, so my plan here is to install this pipe, okay, I'm running my pipe back and then up, and you'll see it works. all good but I want to run the pipe directly to the back wall and then so it is away from the water supply lines after installing this.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the front of this. It could end. Put a piece of pine about one by twelve and make a little box just to encapsulate all this so that everything is hidden. Let's wait and see what I decide later, just a word of caution when looking with your ab glue. a solvent primer on vinyl floors they don't get along so be careful now let's take this whole assembly I'm going to put this together now this p trap comes with a cleaning is an emergency access hatch here this is great for If you're washing your hands and you lose your ring, it should get caught in the P-trap and then you can open it over a bucket and be able to rescue your ring.

Why do we use them in these types of areas? Because we have access, we can also maintain access, wrap some Teflon tape around those threads just three more times and that helps ensure that they have a perfect seal. Now these are all plastic fittings, so when you use a wrench, just skip a little. Touch it, if you tighten it too much you'll end up causing things to twist and lose their shape like an oval and you'll end up causing a leak, so be careful with that, okay, here we go, same with the other color. make a few good passes because it will act as a lubricant and a sealant and we go right back, okay here we go, we're going to put some glue on the fitting and on the pipe because what we're doing is we're actually melting both pieces of this ABS and then we put them together, that's how it's done correctly.

You don't need much to make this work, just enough to make it look like it got wet. Well, now we have all that. together, let's slide that over the top and then tighten this ring. Remember that the piece of pipe you are attaching this to was also placed clockwise. When you are done tightening it, turn the fitting clockwise into position, make sure it doesn't come loose too much. Well, yes, I sent my son to the store, when he comes back, he will have a couple more elbows for me. We'll connect the rest of that pipe real quick and then it's done, so here's our mirror and this is our nice little mirror pad for the heating cables this is a peel and stick scenario.

I wish it were easier to get started, but here we go, we really want to line this up relatively in the middle, we're going to peel off the rest of the best part of this system is this peel and stick and now our wiring is connected to our light, so which is guaranteed not to fog up. We will put the link in the description on how you can contact these products, they are amazing. we have to do, let's just open up these little rings here and fill them for a minute or two until you find the mounting locations, wait and that side is fine, so there's just one more thing I want to try to do and this may seem crazy, but when you have a mirror, this big, you just hang it on two screws, it wobbles terribly, so what I'm going to suggest is that you take some double sided tape, put it on the back of the mirror and then remove that additional sign. and we're actually going to use some adhesive and attach it to the stone, okay, here we go, so you have to remember that because we're on these two screws, if you just move the top of the wall a little bit further away, then you're going to change the height of the mirror, look, remove the top part and then let the bottom part press that tape against the wall.

Okay, now it doesn't take all the weight, but it's just going to hold it in position so now those screws go. To support the weight and it won't wobble, the only thing left to do now is connect the water supply lines and listen, most of these braided faucets have a gasket inside so you don't have to overtighten with a wrench. Just squeeze with your fingers, place the blue supply line on the right side as soon as you can figure out where it goes. Hi, that's what's typical. I made a rookie mistake. I bought the Shark bikes.

I made sure it looked right, but it didn't. You don't check the package when you're at the hardware store and notice that people look at something and put it back, they never put it in the right place, so what I was trying to connect was a quarter inch supply line that It is only for refrigerators. I needed a 3/8, so I stole the one from the toilet. I'll finish this now. I have to go back to the store to buy something for the toilet supply line, which I'm doing a little more now that we can go back. and I connect this.

I always, always, always, always double check. I can't believe I did it. It's been a while since I got the right device, but it happens. Okay, here we go, now put the heat on getting married and then we'll do it. put the wrench in here a couple of turns just to make sure we embed that joint into the line. Okay, now for the drain plug, this threads into the bottom of the drain and is quicker. How's this little flange joint here for you to sit on again? go counterclockwise until you feel like it's there, that's the spot and that's what I did right and then we have a drain.

The danger with this and this type of container is because it doesn't overflow if you do this and fill it, don't leave it. Well, the room, the world of toilets hasn't really changed much in the last I don't know 70 years, except for the body design style, so when you're looking for your toilet, you'll want to take a look at a couple. Of the options that really separate the men from the boys in this business, one of them is the excellent water conservation with dual flushing, the other issue is whether you have the ability to move a large amount of contents through the pipe with the one where the toilets come. a rating for that so you want to check that out too and the other thing of course and this is my favorite soft close toilet seat.

I mean, it's a very simple investment, just a few dollars and you can have the seat that you can slam shut. but it never makes any noise, just oh it's beautiful. I love my soft close seat anyway. We will install it today. We will do this on our vinyl floor that floats above our heating system. So what do we have? here we have this little construction kit, it comes with a foam gasket with the bolts already in place and then it comes with this Teflon ring, okay and it sits there like this and then on top of it you put this huge foam gasket now.

The reason I am using this instead of wax is because this house is very old and has a lot of movement through the different seasons, so if I have any movement on this floor over time I need to have a joint that is under compression during movement it will grow back and that's fine, this compresses and will grow back, so if the toilet ends up moving a little over four seasons it won't be a concern, this will seal all year round, the wax once it It compresses, it stays. compressed and in the toilet it moves now you have a space for the water to flow for a minute so this is the perfect type of flange cover to use if you have an older house like ours and we are going to have a lot of momentum so no Also, let's bring the toilet here and show you a couple of easy tips and tricks for installing it.

So you understand that when it comes to a one piece toilet with this slim design, you're going to have to have a tool that The reach goes on top of the bolts and then you can tighten them so you know here's another great example. I have my wrench with removable tips. This is an amazing tool and is very useful. We will use it for installation today. I also like the fact that the back is raised so I have room for my water supply line. Do I have space to enter? And behind her, let's spin this up real quick, so one of the main benefits of one.

The two-piece toilet is the fact that there is no additional contact between the tank and the bowl. Those areas are usually very common places for dripping and water leaks, so you don't have to take that extra risk. makes it very easy to clean and there aren't many places where the surface can collect that kind of stuff, so what we're going to do because we're using the rubber gasket instead of the wax, we can actually just tilt it. slide it back and secure it in place with wax, it should fit well and flush well and at this point the toilet should be on the floor, that's perfect because what you want to know is that it needs compression if it's touching on the floor and sitting there and it doesn't move there is no compression you need to build your ring a little more this is perfect as is so the installation idea is the same as a normal toilet you have to get this little brass plate up and over there and then you have to reach the nut behind the toilet and just tighten it until it's loose.

I'm going to slide this over the top of the ball, no, you hear that, call it a ratchet wrench, right? You're in a lot of trouble here, so we're pretty solid. We're going to take your side with that here too. Look, you can see here that this side is much lower and yeah, so this is the thing. Don't tighten it to the point where you can't move it anymore, just position it so theratchet works, go to the other side and now we'll tighten that side until the toilet reaches a new level, so I've been sitting. here this ratchet almost two minutes tightening it there is a lot of limitation in the movement but the reality is that everyone who installs one of these in one piece broke it without a ratchet system you just can't get enough force on it I will make it work once have it level, it's time to install the seat on the toilet seat, let's talk about for a second this is not a standard seat, you can't just go to the store and buy one, this is not a basic elongated or around this It's specific to the whole design here, so make sure that when you buy your toilet, if you want soft linen, you buy it as part of the package or you will be really frustrated because you won't be able to just go to the store and buy one after the installation system here, it's very standard for soft clothes, you just have to remove these screws here a little bit and you've got the toilet in place and everything we were over here is fine. all the clips in place, you can see there's a lot of movement here so what you need to do is lower it and then maneuver your seat so it's where you want it, once you find your happy spot, lift it up again, push your two pins in here now tighten them again, okay, you know this particular manufacturer has a decorative cover because it's kind of visible when the seat is on, they give you this stainless steel thing to cover this, okay and you can install it and that's so cool. like it was done on the toilet seat but at the same time it's okay that's it yeah look how the soft clothesline is amazing that's how you don't make anyone else in the house wake up in the middle of the night yeah , okay, now the sides are really interesting. they have a really nice snap cover that was on the side to close the access point ah it's a little tricky you see these rings they are designed these four corners hook onto the edges of the slots here and then this actually fits in that piece, there's a lot going on here, but the idea is that you're reaching back again.

It seems like it takes a lot of work, but they haven't invented a better lacing system yet. You just take your cat game. that in position and there you have the bathroom hatch thank you, you really have to use your fingertip and it's maddening, he will do it, make her finish, are you a good and comfortable step? Okay, Matt, next up is the water supply. line now I love buying braided water supply lines it's ok they already come with a gasket inside so no extra assembly required just reach behind the toilet thread and what you want to do is back up say sorry . like click and then squeeze it it's a plastic thread on a plastic fitting so you can cross the thread very easily if you're not careful okay so just reach back close your eyes and you can't see you can't see .

You feel like there's no click, but you felt like the grant was okay and then you just squeeze it with your finger. I didn't grab it, I wonder if it's easier from this side, it's because you're right. I am right-handed. back and forth and a round thing yes, click Matt, I should go in this direction, you told me this way, that's what you said. I'm just leaving you some room for personal expression, no, the information is good, you just didn't want to listen to how it is, how it's working, it's spinning it while we're doing it, okay, I'll tell you what, just give it to me for a second because I am right-handed and I can reach from the right hand, it was not working because they put a factory setting, it reads that you want is what there is now but with that there is a blood squeeze in that you were probably doing everything right and at the same time having a little experience is worth it when I felt that another fit I'm Like that's all I'm normally, it's just a plastic stem, you know, any kind of pressure you can get with two fingers will be good, you're not going to leak through that joint, now just connect it to the supply line and once.

You have a tight finger you can do another quarter turn with that bad boy well that's unique no it's common yes well I just did it. I wouldn't rate all those times where you said, oh, you crossed them, but I taught you all my tricks. However, they do tricks early on and then you don't learn anything the hard way, you don't respect them. I'm just trying to figure out where in the world they would need that adaptation so where in the world do you think they have a different water supply line sighs are you awake maybe this because the clothes are different yeah yeah yeah the The idea is that we wouldn't really know because the instructions that came on this toilet were in Chinese characters, there were literally three pictures, so one of the reasons we're making this video, we almost didn't make a bathroom video, but then we saw the instructions when, wow, we better go over this together just in case and I'm glad we did because we probably would have spent half the time.

Day ago, trying to fit that water spider every night, you know, the only other system that needs to be installed is the Dual Flesh right now, the tank has an obvious contour, which makes it really easy, that's awesome, oh yes, that's it, that's the installation. In this video, I will show you how to install an amazing bathroom appliance. Clean and heated electric towel rail. These bad boys look beautiful and functional. They incredibly warm your towels. Are you coming out of the bathroom now when it comes to installing one of these, it's really just a couple of things you need to know, hey, you have to power it.

I prefer to run a line directly from my light switch or my fan switch, depending on which has more room, and run it directly to this box now that it reaches the air box location. I think the easiest way to do this is to figure out where on the wall you want this before you put up the drywall and then make sure there is a stud on one side placed on the feed side you want to do. Make sure you measure up. the center of your box, mount it on a bracket between the studs. It's ready now.

If you want to look at that in depth, we have that information in our video on how to make electricity for a bathroom. I'll put the link in the description below, basically you are bringing power in from your supply line, which is your light switch bringing it to this location. There is no on/off switch with this product, it only works with this switch, so if you put it on. With live energy when you enter the room with the lights or fan, you are ready for easy application. This product comes with a ton of extra cable and if you want, you can try plugging it in while sitting on the floor. and then you can try to fit all these cables in the box or you can do what I do, just put the trash can in the room, give me some slack and they cut off the excess and there we go, the problem.

Solved now that the box has a lot of room, now this little tool I have here is also a wire stripper, so I'm going to find the right gauge for the wire and remove the coating and then it's all set and ready to wind the single. Another thing we need to do and I can do this right here now because I didn't turn on the circuit. I ran a new circuit for this bath, so I know I'm ready to go. You're not sure if you're going to do it. get ready, you can grab one of these bad boys, turn on the light, make sure it's green, there's life energy there and a blank space can turn red, that'll be like not touching this, hit the brake first and then once okay, We're in business, we're not done now, before we can make our connections, we have to set the location for all the mice.

Now on the back of this, you'll see that each of these legs here has a mounting pin that goes into the wall and the set screw to tighten it, so it's important that all of these locations are perfect, so the process for that is not described in the documentation that comes with the product, interestingly no, in the box with the product it comes as beautiful decorative plates, these screws on this plate are aligned with the mounting locations on the box, okay and that will be our main location, so we'll install the rest of this based on that, in this kit comes three little caps that look like a flared thimble.

Okay, and it goes through that hole, there's a lot of room to maneuver, then the set screw is what tightens it all up, so there's a little bit of Mercy involved here and this one also has a thimble, same thing, okay and it unite with the wood screws that come in the wall, so what we're going to do is we're just going to push all the wiring through the hole so we can temporarily mount the unit in this location that we're going to take out. a torpedo level put everything where it belongs okay here we go no although this is magnetic because it's Chrome it's not going to stick so you have to be a little careful here I always prefer to trust my level and not my eyesight here we go That's my place, Now you will notice it if you watch the video where we passed the cable.

I know there's a stud right behind these two because I based this location on that stud, but what I don't know is where I should put it. symbol, so we're going to use our pencil here and make some marks around the location of the base where they contact the wolf and I'll guarantee you that if you finish your paint job before doing this, we're going to need to do some touch ups, so don't be disappointed, this It's going to happen no matter what you do, okay, get all this out of the way and then we can put Oliver back together with all our supports.

I hate Phillips, hey, like I hate. It's a lot and that's why we're going to take our thimble now we're going to reverse it put the thick side against the wall Center on your pencil marks take your screw run it straight into poking that drywall wow, that was a bad shot, It's just a matter of screwing these areas and we are ready. I love Phillips screws. This is where good planning works. Something beautiful that will work wonders. Now there are still two things we have to do, oh ho, now for the assembly, of course they give.

You're the most delicate of the set screws, here we go, so we'll back them out a little bit. Don't worry if you lose one. The standard practice now is that these companies did not put extra screws in the package, but before starting. Take the hardware completely out of the package, place it on the counter somewhere. Thanks Rory, here we go. Now we have a location to configure. We have to run our cable through our board so we have a solid cable and one of these little fiber cables. just twist it and twist it around there a few times, okay, we'll use our little blue and red cap, twist it nice and tight so it comes loose over time, we'll do it with all three, we'll connect white to white, black to black. ground to ground the ground just got this green and yellow color, you can't miss it, there's no point in having an extra wire there when you're done, you shouldn't see any exposed wire buildings, we need them RFK, that's just one way to do it.

You can rest assured knowing that when you put this in the box, it won't make contact with anything else. You will fix those wires there as the ground wire. You don't want anything else to come into contact with that soil where it bends. Push everything as deep into the box as you can to make sure you have clearance. Twisting the cables is a great way to ensure that you will get a good connection. It offers the ability to twist them and then pinch them underneath so nothing moves while you turn this on, okay, let's put this one here now, okay, it's going to be a lot easier to put it in and then run it through the wiring and try to connect it to the bar and then try to just glue it on. because these screws will not be accessible once the bars hang there, it's okay, always good, make sure the screws are put in by hands, first turn a couple of turns so you know they are not threaded, the drills are deep enough powerful enough to stick there, breathe. read it and remove it, okay, there we go, just like we did when we set it up to begin with, we're going to feed all this cable into that box, well, a little stiff, it's good that we cut almost half of that. before we start, okay, here we go, everything is finished, the only thing left to do is tighten these little screws, so let's go up here, okay, before I put more I want to double check my level and lower the pressure well. because then I tighten that set screw, it pushes me down and that's still perfect.

What I need to do now is keep a little bit of pressure applied on these as I tighten them, make sure they're tightened as tight as possible. as close to the wall as possible, this is all a matter of patience, sometimes it's a bit of fiddling around that will drive a person crazy, but if you're patient, even customers damage the wall you're working on, Try doing it this way, from below. This almost always scratches the wall, okay, now we have it plugged into the wall basically, but we still want to connect the power to the switch, so stay with us and let'swe will show how to connect the switch also if If you like this type of content, make sure to subscribe to the channel, don't forget to press the notification arc so you can see every time we upload a video, you will receive a notification and you will be able to see it in this package that comes with these cheesy little plastics. plugs and to be honest with you, if you're trying to run a cable to a spot on the wall and you want to mount a box, you're going to hurt everyone to do it if you're not going to be on wood and you want to try installing this with plastic.

I'm going to suggest that you don't take the time, cut the hole in the drywall, put some blockers in the wall and never use them because you know what happens. I'm going to put a towel in here, they leaned out of the shower or grabbed the towel and gave it a tug, the whole damn thing will fly off the wall if you don't install it on wood, just don't install it. So what I have here is this black and white going towards the lamp. Every lamp that you will have to replace in your house will have a black color and a light, and if it is old, they may have been bent a lot, right, Boop, and they break very easily, so if you are making a new lamp, sometimes It's best to just cut off the old ends and flip your strippers over.

Let's be honest. Strippers are part of every electrician's job. life here we go now in this situation our mounting box is way back in the wood like it should be and we have drywall and we have a nice thick porcelain tile so you will find that the mounting screws for your blue light fixture do not they're going to take a long time Okay, this bracket you want to have nice and proud here, okay, because these screws here actually match the plate and then these little nuts here actually hold the fixture to the wall, so knowing that, I'm going to show you a little bit. .

A trick I learned from a random electrician is to mount this in the area to keep the brass flush with that tile, which is key to a good installation. The first thing we do is take our little tool here and we're going to grab the end of the ground wire and we're going to create a little hook on it. Well, we'll use that wire to engage the ground screw on our final finish. Now we want to be careful because that's my design, that's my finish, that's a good location, okay, so I'm going to bring it in from the other side, put it back together, okay, then tighten the screw, okay, no, the other thing we want to do is salvage these little extra nuts from Offer this here, set them aside for later.

One measurement you need is from the wall, which would be tight to this in the perfect scenario to the surface of your face and it comes out to three quarters of an inch when you tighten this, that's three. quarters of an inch from the back of the stone to the face of these nuts, that's the measurement we're working with, so I want to install this on that bracket. I mean, if I install the back plate flush with the stone, I have 3/4 inch of my little nut to go in there, let me take a measurement that gets me to an inch and a quarter.

Well, those little nuts aren't that long, so your best plan here is to drive this mounting screw in, no, come on. It should be a lot easier, well, turn this back and then turn the threaded rod so that you're only 1 inch and an inch from the back plate and you'll go a little bit further, and if we can't go any further than that, then we'll do it. What we know how to do is embed this plate in the hole if possible, but it is good to know how it works because not all situations will be desirable to embed the plate in the hole many times.

If you want to go for a gap in the threaded rod that comes here, double check one inch there, sir. Perfect, okay, so here we go now. I have some accessories here that I brought. They will be solved just by mounting this light in a recessed box and that's it, I went out and bought some screws. Now what you want to do is go to the local hardware store buy a box of machine screws and this is just a basic machine thread, it's 632 per inch and a half, this is what you want to grab. I hate Phillips, now you can put this screw in the box and set the depth right where we want it right, but there's nothing to stop it from falling out.

This is the million dollar problem everyone has when doing electrical work so we measured from the tile to the face of the fixture to mount it but when I'm mounting if this falls on me then I'm in a lot of trouble , okay, so this is what we do, take this off, take your moretz, this is the tip of the day, you put it right where the mounting box is. and you take a look at your depth and it's just a hair like it's only an eighth of an inch grab your side cutters grab a hole that bad boy doesn't look very good but there's a hole and that's what you're looking for and this becomes on your washer, so what I mean is you want to take your drill bit to get rid of that metal threaded part that's inside, okay, sit on it, it's like a punch, there it is and this is what's in your way.

Great for joining cables, but it's very inconvenient, and you're setting this up, boy, you can get it in but you can't get it all. I'm having a lot of fun with this, aren't I? I have never seen it. This will be so stupid just Hana, no this is about rescuing my damn drill bit. Well, there's my screw and here's my extension. I'm going to hold this marette and this is the advantage of making sure there's no power. There's a lot going on here, so. don't try this live and there's enough for that screw. The other option is that you can go out and buy 40 or 50 of these silly little washers and stack them all.

Having one of these Moretz on hand is much easier and more versatile now that we are ready to assemble our box, okay now that box is fully secured which is awesome the only other thing you have to do now is assemble this level , well, as soon as I get in, you already finished it, I need to do it. use my torpedo level here because this will tell me what the level looks like and I don't want to trust your eyes standing on a ladder come on honey now there's a set screw on the panel here once you have a level you tighten that bad boy until you hear some resistance now your entire device will be level if it has been made square to the board, which in many cases it is not, but this device appears to be of higher quality.

I shouldn't have that. problem hmm, not a big surprise. I would love to buy anything made in North America, any of these threaded cables, there are always very few exposed cables left for me. I like it no, you might be one of those guys that says no. I love when there is a little bit. I can not stand. I like to pre-wrap my cable so I can sleep peacefully. I hate doing things twice. Okay, so before we get started, let's narrow this down here now, the idea behind these little clips you haven't seen before as they are designed to hold the glass shade well and what you need to do to attach the curtains before to place them. bulbs and we are installing our fixture this way, so it is very easy to do after installing it, but I guess I saved myself a step because I will be working over my head at that time.

Yes, there is a good question for you, maybe You can fill that in the comments section. Do you like lamps when the lights point down or up? This is an option especially nowadays when you use LEDs and with some people, no it's not the majority. my experience, but some people love the lights to shine so it's not a direct light on their face. I've always been a fan of having light on your face for those moments when you need to see what the heck is going on with your face, okay? What we're going to do is take our ground wire, I also call it a hanging wire because I put it on that green screw, I put two loops on that bad boy, okay, and then I have the ability to hang my device, I just know how . using a screwdriver will be fine, let's tighten it back in there, let's go nice and gentle here yes, I'm nice and gentle, that's fine now let's connect our wires, we'll start with the black one, yes, I should probably have hung that wire up a little closer, twist it a little, hold the wires on the base thread on the blue one, okay, then do the same with the white one, okay, yes, if you can push the right connections back into the box, that's it ideal for everyone.

Well, these connections here don't get in the way if you leave them where the board is, but if you can put them back inside the case, then do it. All we're going to have to do is put these two screws through that plate and it should be perfect because we measure. This is not the time when you want to identify how deep the screws need to be and make your adjustments now that everything is already clamped and screwed in, it's very hard to play with that, which is why I like to measure. go ahead and put these balls on now same thing go back until you feel it click there keep your screwdriver handy there will always be a wire that will be a little frustrating okay make sure you don't compress the wires against the plate to the stone or the back wall and that's it, okay, you know, okay, yeah, and this is my lens, it comes with a sticker, make sure you remove it, it's okay to dry it or eat it if you want. using an incandescent bulb and to make it almost impossible to handle, you put the top thread of that piece like that back until it seats properly and then you move forward, okay, if you do that, it's a very aggressive threat if you just start to turn it on. and try to force it, will you ever say that a small sticker that was on the screen mentioned that this fixture has maximum 100 watt bulbs, not like last night, but I'm not going to put 400 watts of power in front of my face.

We will use these 60 watt LEDs because it is better to have a white light than a yellow light, especially when you use LED lights in the room lights, they used to have the same color temperature in the bulbs. all over your space, that's just one of those little signs that says you thought about what you're doing before you start well, you've seen it all before and someone's house, you're the win on the standard a little bit. I have a lot. of yellow lights and a bunch of white lights makes everyone cheat, throw something in the trash that still works even though it looks horrible, here we go, these accessories still have the ability to balance them, even after installation, it's okay, like this make sure it looks pretty. ready, thanks for joining us for that demo on how to renovate your own bathroom, but here's the good thing, let's talk about money because there are quite a few elements here that may or may not have been in the video, like for example. we have this awesome clear mirror in the shower behind us it has an LED light and a heated mirror so it doesn't fog up so you will shave in the shower great for men we also have the towel warmer we also did all our own electrical system in swap now I know some of you are there, you know the different places in the world, your electrical system is different just like on stage, you are all 20 amps, we have 15, so don't be too harsh with me.

If you watch the electrical video on how to do all your own wiring in your bathroom, put the link here. Okay, now the last thing we want to talk about is the right numbers so that the cost of the vanity, the sink and the spigot reflect the turn on the towel warmer, the door, the tile, the shower pan, all of this, the floor, the heated floor system. I mean, there are a lot of materials, put us at less than five thousand dollars, that's Canadian money, so if you're from the United States, you're probably considering an investment of about four thousand dollars, here's the good news: when you do a project like this and you take the builder's boring old outdated bathroom and renovate four thousand dollars worth of material with all your time, sweat, love and blood, you get a huge return because the value of this house goes up by ten to fifteen thousand dollars by doing this bathroom now that's money in the bank listen in if you enjoy this type of content and are looking for information on how to renew it because you're like me and you know it's necessary to get ahead nowadays and click the subscribe button below and then Don't forget to hit the notification bell to get a notification from YouTube every time we post our new video, which should be pretty much every Saturday. night at 9:00 EST and one more thing, if you are a renovator and need help, I can encourage you to join our membership program.

I guarantee I will answer our members' questions. YouTube has changed our little computer studios so that I can watch every one of your questions and make sure I answer them and they don't let me get away with it, so that's great. We also have an email so you can send us photos, ask for details and get advice. We are here to help, we want to help you see everyone to be successful in your renovation because we don't just show you tips and tricks so you can mess up your house, we show you how to make it better.

Thank you so much. For joining us today, don't forget to hit the Like button if you think you might have learned something valuable and if you wantsee the full playlist for this project, right here we have all the videos divided into sections, so if you have missed something you can scroll through that playlist and find what you are looking for, see you next time