DIY How to Renovate the Tub / Shower from A to Z

In this video, we'll show you how to do your own tub and

shower

renovation and save a ton of money, so the first step of any renovation, of course, is demolition. That's a fancy word for taking out the old stuff, so what? What we need to do here today is let's talk real quick about some safety equipment. I have these fantastic gloves in the color of my soccer team. They work too. If you're a homeowner, you might want to get some. eye protection working with this tile when you're working with it and you know you're going to get a chip or you're going to get the edges cut off, you want to make sure you're being smart about it, another good thing would be to get a mask.

Many of the reasons these bathrooms will break is because we have mold behind the walls. This is an N95 mask. It's for particles. This is especially good for dust and mold spores and that sort of thing. So you buy three of these for ten dollars and they last the entire duration of the renovation, make sure you make that investment and if you don't have a pair of fancy gloves, I bought them today at the store, they're five dollars, this is a backup of palm leather, a great investment if your DIY or one size fits all, so suggest them too now before we get into this, let's talk about the demolition process, of course, it's just the removal of what was installed in the reverse order and if If you follow that advice, everything will be fine, but first.

Let's start for real, number one, turn off the water. I know you are in control, you can turn off the valve and all these wonderful things, but you never really know what is behind a wall, so to protect your home and your investment, simply turn off the water and open the faucets at the top of the house and turn on the faucets at the bottom of the house train all the lines and release the pressure there we go we just hear the air rushing so we're flushing the lines now that we know when we

renovate

we're not going to be able to cut a line and we're going to have a pipe burst so if we're ripping out the bathroom you need some basic tools here one is the tub removal tool you can find it at your plumbing department hardware store about ten dollars a screwdriver to turn a couple of bits different, usually Phillips head and flat head is all you will find, you have your drill and you will need your Allen wrenches now, most of these tubs here have a set screw on the bottom, you can't see it, it's in one place awkward, but you need to know what's there so you don't go crazy trying to screw this tear in the wall until the set screw comes loose. you can't eliminate this, so why don't we start there?

This is a Delta system, it's an Imperial system of course, so it's 5/32 bit and you have to go underneath here, so we usually go to this side at least. This time, though, yeah, okay, so now you can see it on camera. Makes sense. Okay, it's right there. No. You can stick this in a lot of different places and not have much success, so be patient. Twist it a little. you feel it sitting on the seat and then you can give it a spin there of course we have the

shower

valve. These handles usually have a decorative cap and you can use the screwdriver to remove it, but it has a set screw.

Also, no, that's out of the way, there are usually a couple of screws on the board. These older model systems always have surface screws. The newer ones have a wall plate that mounts and snaps into place, but that makes it simple, so now they can all be removed. without disrupting the plumbing okay secondly we want to eliminate the overflow in the drain usually just one or two screws here the idea here is that the plumbing behind the tub will stay in place when you remove the tub , so you need to disconnect the trim here, so that can happen, so here's my fancy tub removal tool and it has two different functions depending on the size of the tub.

This short end goes right there nice and snug over the crossbars and then what I do is a layout. screwdriver on top push down and turn counterclockwise now on older bathtubs because it is steel they usually just use plumber's putty to put them in this bathtub strainer basket is so recessed that my tub remover tool is not abusive, useless, it's not going to help, now I have to I have to show you another trick, so it's amazing, it's the first time that my tub remover tool didn't work. I'm not sure what's going on with this but you know not everything is created equal so we have a couple of tips that might work for you, you can use very thick screwdrivers or you can use what I have here, a couple of allen wrenches old, big, here we go and I'll show you two tricks, one of them is just Put the Allen keys, okay, and then you create this cross again and you can snap like this and you can read it like that.

Now this only works if the crossbars at the bottom of the tub drain here are intact, okay? and you can see that. works pretty well and you can put as much force as you need on that and unscrew it if you have a tub strainer here that comes across eroded or rusty here's another thing you can do, realize this is a chrome plated material, usually a soft metal like the brass, you can take an old chisel, put it on the edge and make a dent and then you can lay it a little flatter and just tap it, that takes a lot of time and makes a lot of noise but it's effective.

I'm not sure how to remove a bathtub if you can't get this because you are now connected to the plumbing in that house, if you have to remove this and you can. To remove this strainer, you will use a cutting tool or blowtorch and cut off the top and middle portion. I don't know, it's amazing, so it's good to have a couple of tricks up your sleeve, ready, we're the innovator 1 and the bathroom, nothing. Well, all shower heads are the same, they usually have a little shower arm and there's also a compression fitting on this one, so if you give it a little twist and pull, you can get it out of the way right now.

You only have a couple of options here, you can grab it here with your pliers and just twist it and you'll probably remove the shower head, okay? and then you can try to give me a ride, it may be a little. It's frustrating because the guy who originally put this in usually uses a lot of force so get a good grip on it and then once you start you can finish it off with your hand, of course if you're stuck and the Reg isn't working for you you can combine this with a nurse trick that I know you put the wrench in there really tight because a screwdriver in the pipe gives you extra leverage and you can pull both at the same time, there is no That way, I'm strong enough that that won't work , so once we remove the accessories, the next thing is to get rid of all the silicone gaskets that are around here because next we will remove the walls and that is a It's much easier to do if they are not silicone for the tub, just take your knife.

The ceiling doesn't appear to be silicone and it's painted so I want to cut that out too okay so now it's time to remove the walls and if you've grabbed your sledgehammer or one of these beautiful Stanley bars you have the wrong tool on your hand, like I said before, this is more surgery, so we have to be smart because what we want to do is reinstall the new tub frame. the same space without creating a mountain of work repairing walls, so the technique you want to use here is really simple, take an old flat chisel and a hammer and remove this tile one at a time so that we have control over the wall and Hopefully , we won't damage the wall board so much that you can see tile chips, so be sure to wear your glasses.

Working this way allows us to cut this wall board right next to the old painted line and then we can create a tile line from it. place on the wall so we don't have to repair all the drywall and repaint now. If you have never done this type of work before, you should understand that when ceramic tiles break like this, it is not the clay that is dangerous, but the glaze. the polish is very sharp, make sure you wear gloves now. I can create a cut line and I can cut the drywall. Now we are ready to remove the walls.

Well, here's the deal if you're a home renovator and you're working on your own house and you don't want to dress like a clown with a diaper on your face, you know, you realize you're taking some risk, okay? So for me, I'm not a big fan of wearing the mask, let's get that out of the way and I'll tell you why I find wearing the mask makes it very difficult to breathe and to be honest with you, I guess I'm a little old school I think whatever you do, making a living is going to kill you, so you know you can try to take all the safety precautions you want to avoid injury, that's one thing, but I won't worry about a little dust from time to time if we go.

To clear the air, I installed negative air and will wear a mask on the occasion. I'm going to cut eight feet of drywall, now the reciprocating machine will make a little bit of dirt and if you're afraid of dirt then don't do it. Don't renew, just look here. I'm only going to cut about an inch from my goal line. This is outside the bathtub. You don't need to have any kind of waterproof board here, which is why I'm cutting at this point. Okay and the Another way to do this is with a knife, if you don't have one of those fancy tools, you can always use a knife.

No, it looks like the last renovator here used a green board, it's attached right in the same place as us. What I'm doing and then they recorded it and did a bunch of clay work so I got a half inch that I have to carve first, but if you're patient, go over this a few times and eventually you'll get to the end. back of the drywall, okay, here we go. I'm going to show you my technique for removing the surrounding walls of the bathtub. No, do not chisel all the tiles. In fact, someone commented in the next section about whether I can remove all the tiles. with a chisel and then re-tile the same wall board and the answer is no, for obvious reasons like this, the surface protection, the paper that has been treated against mold and water resistance, is It will hurt, it's okay, it's not worth trying. to save anything here because I'll show you how you'll see in a second, you saw how hard it was to chip away at this.

I can remove the rest of these walls in less than 10 minutes, okay, so be patient and watch technique and it's very simple, what we're looking at is just putting holes through everything in the same motion, okay, here that is an upright, is an upright. I've cut through the panel because I'm wearing my safety glasses and my gloves and I go in there and I reach in and grab it now just use your ear strength and use your hammer just shake it it'll shake out all the drywall screws that are in this board, loose from the back, all good, usually comes out in one piece.

Things like this get torn off, okay, now you can take them right to the dumpster, so a lot of homeowners I know have the same kind of problem about what to do with the trash they don't want to pile up in their garage. You can't put it on the curb for the city to pick up, so here we go, we'll show you a little secret. I have to do this quick before my bag flies, okay, if you've never seen this before. There is a dumpster in the back. You can buy it at local hardware stores. The brilliant little invention comes with these two straps.

All you have to do is place it near the curb and when you're done, call the 1-800 number on the side of the bag pay with your visa over the phone these guys like to come, grab an arm, pick it up, take it all full, I can put a full bathroom in there, bathtub, toilet, walls, floors, everything, including the vanity. At the top, it costs around two hundred and fifty dollars for removal, a great deal if you want to get a roll pin, your damaged doll in the driveway requires a lot more space and usually starts at five or six hundred dollars, so this is the perfect project size so quick trick here before you start removing all the walls to help narrow down the scope of the job when you're done remember the ceiling here there will be a drywall joint, the tape will go from here up and then across and if you are not careful to cut the paper before you tear it off you will peel it off the ceiling then you will have to repair the drywall and repaint the ceiling so we do everything we can to prevent that from happening.

The runner knife on the other side of here. sometimes almost like we're trying to cut it through the drywall because a lot of people use a lot of mud in rooms, you want to make sure you have that paper gun right now, we go back to the same technique, just different and just give it little tugs. , small vibrations, all these screws will loosen and then,once we have them separated we're going to force it down really well so we don't damage the roof here we go so here's the edge of our roof now it's perfect there's absolutely no damage here it's exactly what we're looking for when we come back with our new wall board and tiles, our new tile will be thicker than this old one, this is what we like to call cookie, it's actually thinning out the new thicker ones so they actually have a thicker profile and that will put us in a position in which we are going to finish clean on that roof, not work on the roof again, there will be another whole day that you are not going to do. waste.

A lot of people ask me questions about this type of situation here, this black and the insulation, and they ask these questions in the comments section below and what you want to know is that this is not mold. Okay, this is air movement and When air moves through a building cavity, it will pick up any dirt around it and deposit it wherever there is resistance, so this is just air movement, probably because it wasn't sealed tight enough. The back of this wall is nothing to worry about, it doesn't affect the insulation quality, it just looks ugly, so if it bothers you, you can replace it, but it's not necessary, it's okay, so this is an empty cavity, we have plumbing and wiring.

Back here, that's a very deep wall, it's a mechanical wall, it's probably going to have heat runs as well, so you have to be careful, watch your swing, you don't want to come out too hard and hit right through here because you might hit something big. record, remember keep your mouth shut when you do this kind of thing, here we go, same technique, okay, make sure the silicone is cut, a little bit of vibration, one thing you'll want to do here, check for nails in the adjacent wall, okay, do it. Make sure there is room for the wall board to open when you start it up, it will just open like a door and again, since you are walking through your house, it fills in all the broken pieces that will cause a mess down the road. all the mess in the same room so you don't have to clean the whole house later, here we go, we know this piece of board probably weighs around 60 or 70 pounds, so keep that in mind if you're working alone or 70 pounds. too much to carry, you can just smash it and then smash it first, then you can reduce the size of the job properly, so for the top side of this wall, I really like to break it into two pieces, tearing off this entire wall and protecting the ceiling while carrying everything that weight and you don't cut your leg with this cut slab, it can be a trick, so what I would do is find a place where we know the cavity is safe and we will go out of that concession line up to the roof.

Now I'm going to put my hammer against the frame at an angle so I can test it again. Same thing, do you want to take it down from the ceiling, away from your cutlery? Well, I mean, there's obviously a lot more to do. do in a demolition than just take out a sledgehammer and beat it up. I don't know, they love to show that on TV, but let's stop and think for a second, what would happen if we took the tar out of the wall and it hit the pile, okay, you drill a hole in this bad boy, now you bring in the plumber and you will be replacing the stack right in the attic, that's attic work too, what if you just move the hammer here and punch out the joint? on this copper line, if you didn't realize you did it, you would put your bathroom back together, turn the water back on and flood the whole house, so when you're destroying things if you don't know what's going on. on the other side or inside that wall, which is not necessary, you have to have a little patience and a little skill.

I know it's a great TV, but using a sledgehammer inside a bathroom isn't really what that tool was made for, we don't do that now. I want to destroy the roof, so we have a here we go, so far we have saved the roof. Remember when you're doing a demolition and you're doing an isolated project like we're just doing the tub in the tub environment, it's ours. Now I have to stop and think about how I can prevent the scope of work from getting out of control. Well, one of the things I don't want to do is not have to start getting into finished woodworking because it's a mark. -new set of tools, it's a new day at work, oh my gosh, so what we have is an outside corner holding this wall in place, so I'm going to grab my hacksaw and I'm going to cut the corner, OK? set it up and go at a 45 degree angle and it will cut both sides, there we go, when I break the corner bead on the wall, I'll leave all the molding alone, there's another whole set of tools and a full setup.

I mean, can you imagine having to set up all your tools and make two cuts, what a painting buddy? Okay, now this bathroom here is basically a big square and they put the tub here and outside this wall to bring the controls to this. The style of construction means you're going to make some mud and you'll have to paint a bit, but it's only on the small wall, so when you take this apart don't even try to get around the corner. don't try to open it to put it back later, you're going to break the paint line, you're going to make a mess, just take it off, move on, it will also get in the way of installing your wall and you can see here they've done it with nails, so the best way to get rid of this is to hit it with the hammer right in the corner, once you have it off the wall you can do it right now and it can be surgical as you want to find every nail right make sure it doesn't do anything sophisticated, do the same thing, just take your time, it's easier when you go down because it will bend and break everywhere, the nail is you.

Put your clown behind it, maybe take it out and then you can put it back down and if it doesn't come off nice and clean, just throw your claw at the wall board so you can grab it and then you can rip it. and that is where we cut perfectly, always remember to close the blade before putting it in your pocket. Yeah, I learned that one is the tough winner, so most of our demo is complete, so before we take out the tub, we'll just take. one minute, take all the nails and screws out of the wall, clean up any extra debris that needs to be removed and then we'll get everything off the floor, sweep, vacuum the tub, start with a clean slate again. before we start playing with the tub because the secret here is the floor in this bathroom we want to keep in good shape so we're actually reinstalling it with the same floor still in place so we want to be a little more careful here and make sure that as we go, we're not causing any damage that's not necessary again, keep the scope of your work small and then this type of project is very predictable, so the next step in our demolition is we have to remove the tub, but before we can move the tub, We have to cut our pipes and this is the reason why we are in a bedroom situation and this tub does not come directly into the room because the frame is exactly the same size as the tub , but on that side of the wall there is drywall, so I'm half an inch too small to be able to slide the tub out, so what I have to do is lift it up, roll it up, and then slide it between the wall studs to get it out and the reason I want to do it that way is because then I'm not affecting or increasing the scope of the job by causing new drywall work and a new paint, it will take a few extra minutes, but if you take the time to cut the part of the plumbing So, pull out all the nails and you have all the space you're going to need to be able to pull out the tub.

We'll show you how to do it in just a minute, but first remember that we have the water turned off. You just need one of these little copper cutter pipes and I'm going to pick a place that's convenient for me to put the plumbing back together. I don't want to have it near my wood reinforcement, that's okay, now that we've cut it out and covered it up. All of our pipes are completely out of the way now so we removed our tub and you can see the full process on how to do all of these pipes in our upcoming copper to PEX video so that's the last step we have before we take out our tub.

Do we just go around and make sure we get all these nails and screws out again? The space here is exactly 60 inches, the tub is exactly 60 inches, so there is no room to maneuver here if we are constantly bumping into nails and screws. don't go crazy just take two minutes so keep in mind when you clean the wall before you pull out the tub, when you pull out the tub you're going to want to be comfortable so you're going to roll it and you're going to lift it up to where you're comfortable holding the tub here.

You have another 32 inches, so you want to make sure you're pulling all the nails up to four, four and one. half a foot just so you don't get caught on anything, especially your hands, so far we have managed to remove all the shower fixtures, all the walls, all the tiles and we haven't damaged anything out of our reach. job which is a new tub and a new tile surround, so the last thing we have to do before we take out the tub is make sure we cut the silicone gasket down here and I mean, sacrifice your blade, get that in there, you you're going to wear out. the tip mm-hm and that's okay, that's why they make them break, okay, now we have this moving mat here so we have a place to put this tub after we take it out, we're trying to remove it and reinstall the tub. in exactly the same place without damaging this tile.

If we succeed, we manage to keep the cost of this job at three thousand dollars instead of more than six or seven. That would be awesome, so I'm going to try to do this on my own for the benefit of everyone who doesn't have anyone around them who can help. I'm actually really lucky here because I don't have a lot of studs on my walls in the end, I have this stud here. and I have this big cavity here that I can work with. I only have one on the other side and all my pipes are out of the way so I should be able to find some room to move this over what I want.

What I want to do is, first of all, start by turning it forward and then pick it up to break the seal and move this tub away from the tile and I think I've done it right, I'm already getting stuck in the drywall over here and the secret How this works is that you have to turn it a little bit and then place this tub surround between the studs in the installation cavity so you can slide it in a little. It doesn't take much extra space to move one of these just a little. There we go now at this point because this is the steel tub.

I would recommend grabbing a neighbor and having them help you carry this thing down the stairs. I know there are a lot of people out there, we could probably pick this up and leave, no problem, remember the goal here is to reduce the scope of the work. I'm putting a hole in a wall going down the stairs, it won't help you with that. just a note if you do your demolition the day before garbage day and want to recycle your tub, the easiest way to do this is to leave it on the curb for garbage day in the morning, there is always someone driving around the neighborhood to pick up the truck.

Pick up metal stuff to take a recycling situation, we have a lot of debris here, but I just wanted to point out one more time, here's the pile, your plumbing line comes out at a 45, pick up this vent and then there's a p-trap up here. and then we have this plumbing and it looks like it could be reused, but here's the problem: our new tub has a different body mold, so our center line will be in a different location. Well, we don't have a four. inch ledge in the front with a little lip in the back, so we're actually going to move a little bit over here and the back has to go up to 20 inches, not 16, so although this looks like this could be possible to save it and reuse it, the fact is that it will be much easier for us to start from scratch and put everything exactly where we want, so we will leave this in place for now because there is a p-trap full of water, but tomorrow when we start Let's redo the plumbing, cut up the floor a little bit and cut this pipe and we're going to set up a new plumbing system here for drainage.

I know it's a bit of a fight, you know? I would like to be able to save some if you can, but in the long run it will save you a lot of trouble and this type of thing should not be attached to your tub under pressure, never try to force it. That's a sure way to cause leaks, so if you're like most people, you're in a house that has a bathroom that needs to be

renovate

d and you have it all torn apart and you come across these copper pipes. Now you may not be the best plumber in the world, but if you can learn how to make a simple solder joint, you can convert from copper to using pecks and then you can use a crimper to install all the plumbing in the rest of the shower.

This will allow any average homeowner to add jets and rain showers and all kinds offun features and you can even install pipes in the nooks you want to build into your walls, but I needed a couple of simple tricks and here they are. First you will need a tube to cut copper. This is a really simple little tool. Pick it up at the hardware store for about $15 and copper is a very soft metal. In fact, I'm going to go down a little bit more, so when it's burning. They are well away from the wood, copper is a very soft metal, you can actually just squeeze that tube.

Check this out, I think it starts cutting and every time you go around the tube you just turn it up a little bit more, different sizes come in, so if you're in an unrestricted area you can get one with a big handle, which makes it a little bit easier, but in this environment, just a quarter turn and then keep running, it'll take about six or seven turns and then you can cut the pipe now if you're good with the blowtorch here we go, we just went through it, you can always warm up this joint and pop both at the same time, a lot of people can This is a little complicated, so this eliminates all of those problems.

Let's adjust it and then fix it. You will also notice that this control area is very low in the past, it used to be standard. He really low because the bathtub was used much more than the shower nowadays people use the shower almost exclusively and the times of these functions are very rare, so we are placing them much higher to make it a little more convenient for while you're in the shower, here we go, so now we're completely clear. All we have to do now is identify how they set it up. It looks like a pair of nails.

A couple of nails. This is elegant. little stiletto tool it's like a little mini hammer but it does so many wonderful little things for those hard to reach places now in this situation we're not going to try to save any of this plumbing so you can be as aggressive as you want like because we've drained the water, there we go and then we'll just lift this up to reduce the nails, try that right there, we're not important, don't throw this away, you'll most likely want to save this copper to add to it. for your bathtub spout and that's a nice chunk of copper, so there's no point in throwing it away.

Well, we have our hot or cold ones traditionally on the left. If it's tonight, you'll be surprised what I'm going to do. Here I show you how to clean it, how to burn it and then how to convert it to PEX or just put a brass cap on it and the reason you'll learn both options is because if you have options it could save you a trick. I ran into the store now, this is sand cloth and it's funny because the last time we did a copper to PEX video I used Sam cloth, I called it San cloth, it says San cloth on the box and people were giving me different opinions on why was he calling.

It's a sanding cloth in the video in the comments section below and it's because that's what it's called on the box, that's what I call it. People have different training for it. Alright. The goal here is to leave it nice and clean. You can't burn it. underneath you have to make sure your copper is copper colored before you try to burn anything and you want to do about an inch and a half don't try to be cheap and clean around the top because all it takes is one miss. point and you will have a leak, so here we are, here is the fitting that we are going to use to convert from copper to PEX.

Now this is plumbing language, we talk about male and female things that receive and things that go inside, okay. the way it works, this is the male version, this is the female version, a female version goes above the copper which is convenient, the male version is the same size as the copper so it would be convenient if you are in a joint or using a coupling I thought I'd show it for you to see, but what we're using is the female version and because the plum part we're doing now is kind of an intermediate demo, we're just covering all of this up to so we can take out the bathtub.

I could also just use a regular plumbing cap and I can cap my plumbing that way too, but since we're converting to PEX long term, what I'm doing. I'm going to do to save myself time for tomorrow, so I'm just going to put six inches of PEX in there, put on a test cap which is one of these little plastic caps here and that will be good for tonight and tomorrow we can just cut and add the fixtures when we're ready to run the plumbing now, basically, this comes already clean, it comes from the factories. The brass doesn't really turn it, but what I like to do is scrape it up a little bit so they have some room. so that the solder sits nice, so when I'm doing the blowtorch, if you haven't done it before, what I want to do is use this solder, there we go, you heat up the joint where you want to solder to go, which is up here and add the weld from below, so what you want to do is create a nice, clean environment so that the weld has a place to sit and you're basically sealing it across the entire width. of the joint is fine, so you end up sealing it 50 times more than necessary and that is the goal of getting a joint so clean that there is no risk of it ever leaking and then you sleep at night, you see, depending on this . is not enough, the solder will melt coming out of the side of the pipe at the lowest part and now you know when it goes to the area pushed into the drip, even though I know it's all full of solder, now I'm adding heat to the top left.

I'm adding solder for the bottom right, the heat goes up, so when it gets hot enough to melt the solder on the bottom right, I know it's been sucked out because I added the flux, there we go and suck all the way to the top and that's all. That welding job is already done, so I ran to the car. I have my pectoral cutting tool, so I was out of breath. It's too cold to stand around in a t-shirt. I wanted to show you these two different fittings that you use to cap the end of the line, they are called test caps, they are made of plastic and this is a brass cap, if you had a line and it would end and you would want to crimp it and never think about it again for the rest. of your life now using that today we will use these and they are wonderful just slide them on okay we have a couple of rings slide them on and crimp them and that's it so we'll just stick this on the line and then crimp everything okay now we burn it just two minutes ago, but don't worry if it's too hot, this PEX handles a lot of heat.

The way you do it is you put this test cap on and you have a little bit. on it and you take your ring all the way here and that tells you that you're in the right place. Your Cooper's light is fine, so you want your ring to be about a quarter inch from the end of the tube, tight to the brass fitting boom and this may seem a little tedious and frustrating, but it is much faster and much more flexible than soldering, so we're back here now to finish our copper to PEX conversion and install our shower valve.

The typical tub and shower system has hot and cold water shutoffs as well as built-in PEX adapters so you can connect PEX directly to it and the tub line comes with a three-quarter inch Tech adapter that solves all the problems we have . I have experience in this industry going to PEX and dripping from the shower head when you do pecs in your tub, so what we need to do here is really simple, it's just a matter of doing any of our copper work first so we can leave let everything cool down. down and then we can put everything together so these systems come out, the faucet threads on like this just be careful, this is all machine brass and it's sharp, you might want to wear gloves for this one, this is just the test cap with the ring On it and that's it, that's our valve, so I'm going to suggest that since I'm going to choose the copper option for the bottom, I'm going to suggest that you remove the stops for the hot and cold, just pinch.

Put them together and slide them out, okay, and screw a pull, there we go, it's all in one piece. Now the instructions that come with this don't tell you that it is necessary, however experience tells you when using a soldering web tool if you have anything. That fitting that's made of rubber, it's probably best to get rid of it and that's why we put the drain cover in there, so now you're left with nothing but solid brass as far as the height at which you install the valve. It is completely optional to consult with this particular client.

She has grandchildren that she uses to bathe in this tub, so she needs to be able to access the water while she is leaning in the tub, so she is not as short as traditional for a tub, but she is tall enough . That you can reach it without having to bend over while showering, it's the best of both worlds here, so before you start, don't forget rule number one: turn off the water, drain the line just because you turn it. off doesn't mean you're not going to have a problem with the pressure lines first so I'll always drain the line first so this valve goes to our center line which is here if you're in a situation where you have more room for studs Peck's is amazing, they have these wonderful little stands and you can bend it to ninety without using a krip, it's fine in our situation here although we don't have enough room to turn that so I'm going to have to use an elbow and since I'm using an elbow on the hot line there's no point in using it in the cold because I'll only be able to get so much pressure on the hot side in a shower anyway, so the easiest way to hook up the plumbing is to use a laser level, attach the laser level on the center line and then just mark all the wood where the line is right up to the shower head and that's it, now no more measurements needed.

God possessed a laser level if you run away from home, next thing is too difficult just to measure all your components, let's temporarily screw it to the wall. It's good to know that in this system there are two holes to screw it in and two holes. To fix the plate, those that are screwed to the wall with this manufacturer do not have threads, so they are easy to identify. I know some companies thread all the holes regardless, it always drives you crazy, so we'll put them in there. Now, for this you will need a half inch coupling for the tub.

I like to use one of these bad boys because I can attach it to the wall. It is a 90 degree well that comes with a bracket. Now what you measure is. you measure the space and then you add an inch to get a half inch for each fitting so we're going to go to seven so I need to cut a piece of 8 inch pipe and there's my 8 inch with my thumb of course this is a difficult one to fulfill, if you are worried, you can remove a little for good luck. This is fine for you and you also want to cut at the same time about a 5 inch extension, the tub spout and now the particular tub spoke fitting that what we have is a slide in tub spout where the fitting happens close from the wall, you really only need about two inches off the wall.

I just like to exaggerate a little so I'm guaranteed to have no welds. on the pipe where I'm trying to slide it over the top fitting later because we're dealing with copper and we're dealing with our hands, we're going to have oil in the line, we just make sure we clean all the copper off. At the end just give them a good scratch with the San cloth, of course, use the accessory brush inside all the accessories, get the ones that are going to be scratched out of here and I'm going to scrape the valve as well before we continue, we just want get all. of our torch products are here, on hand, ready to use.

One of the best ways to solder is to have the device mounted somewhere so you don't have to hold on to something that's going to come apart that I'd like to use. My safety glasses when I'm burning because when I solder my accessories I like to use the brush with the flux and just wait a little bit to ensure a good seal and you might get some shine in your face so that takes care of that now before of soldering, we want to assemble well, so we want to get flux inside all of our fittings, you're okay, so I put this together temporarily for now, I have a screw on this elbow so that while I'm heating things up on the side and then start the flux Co it's very liquid a lot of times these accessories will fall off and I don't want all this stuff falling behind it so this is this anchor and keep everything in place until it's done.

I put a screw in here to forget that my water line is bent to keep it out of the heat, so now we're ready to do this. I know it seems a little archaic, but the fact is that we're not soldering, we're soldering, so you know in a perfect world it's nice to have a nice little joint, but my goal is to have the solder not go up the joint, but that goes inside the accessory where we scratched it. Now I have a scratched connector and a scratched tube and solder stuck in all those little grooves, that's what flux does, it's like a magnet and it attracts everything.the solder towards the inside of the joint where the heat is so you heat where you want the solder to go and then when it's hot enough to melt it it will absorb it so although maybe I have a couple of spots here, You may see what you think is a hole.

I guarantee it's airtight and before we close the wall, we'll guarantee it's airtight and do a pressure test so everything's okay, real quick. Note: Don't worry, if you get any of this solder on your acrylic, it won't bond and will just clean off properly. It's okay now because we turned off the water, yeah, and drained the lines. I'm pretty sure I'm confident because I'm looking at the bathroom faucet and it's running and nothing is coming out, yeah, oh, okay, yeah, okay. What we're going to do is just measure where we want to be here with the water line with our thumb a little bit below this again, it's eyeballing and it might be easier if the blade is facing you, sit down. the base and this is what you want to cut as you turn, this is how you cut it straight without collapsing the pipe, if you just cut it straight you will crush the pipe out of shape like this and then putting the fittings on is a real pain. on the back, so always add a ring as you go, that's okay and it won't stay where you want, but that's okay, we also need to add enough to get from here to here.

I love the fact that this Plex is covered in numbers because it makes it very easy to measure, okay, again, we can put the rings in ahead of time because we're going to have two joints now, here's one of these situations, everything is so tight that we can't connect it, now we can take We remove that and put everything in place, then we will put another set screw in again, just keep everything still while we work. Same with the other side, twist and cut and it doesn't do us any good to fit correctly two rings connect that eyeball and cut it well, then we have to grab our trusty crimpers now these are amazing.

I think the last time we made one of these copper ones. For PEX videos we use a different locking system since then, Crimp Right came out with a crimping tool that costs about $40 instead of 400 so it's certainly something a homeowner can use, so you can use these solid rings to crimp now as an owner. Without a huge investment in your plumbing again, this means you can do your own plumbing and the tools will be much cheaper with an iron plumber. Now the goal here is to move the ring about a quarter of an inch away from the attachment which all of these attachments have.

These little spike rings on it, as long as you make solid contact with one of these rings, you'll be fine, but if you aim for the quarter inch rule, you'll surely be as good as gold, you know how scary. The thing is plumbers today use the exact same system which seems like a huge amount of money to play with Lego, pay a plumber, don't get me wrong I love my plumber and there is a time and a place to call a professional but when they make plumbing systems this simple man oh man you better learn how to do it yourself or you were just wasting your money.

Now what we're going to do is take our valves and we're going to put them back in the closed position, which is up and down, and we're going to put our clips back in and this is a pretty simple system to install, pushing down a little bit and then closing them at the end of the crib you will probably find it easier with this idea. I'm just going to push it in. Leave this there. Okay, we're ready. The last thing we can do here, of course, is to place the shower system. Just screw this back on. back until you feel it sit nice and smooth in case your withers curl up, here we go.

I know I mentioned this when I was taking it apart, but I'll put it back, you have to wear a pair of gloves here. You're supposed to do this by hand, you can use a wrench only for a quarter turn, but hand tightening is enough, but wear gloves on all these lines of machines here, if your hand slips it will just cut you in the face. pieces all over the inside of your palm and I learned that the hard way, so now we're at a point where we've gotten our hot and cold water supplies out of the krypton, the shut-off valves are back on our cartridges, back together our tub supply is installed and capped now it's time to shower and this is just a peck step to observe the perfect cut.

A little that will never hurt. The wonderful thing about bundles is that you can always cut them a little more because you can bend them into place and then just drop them in, set your crimping tool to a quarter inch, oh we know how plumbing is. let's turn on the water supply and double check everything please okay so my son is downstairs turning on the water supply what we do is we talk on the phone together so we can contact him if we have any leaks and the first thing . What we need to do is with the faucets closed, we're going to check our solder joint here and our connections leading to the valve and we don't have teething problems.

Can you use maximum pressure? Please, it's okay and we're all pressurized, okay? Upstairs, buddy, okay, now here's a great little invention I bought at my plumbing supply store. I hadn't seen this before in the hardware store so if you're looking for one you might want to go to a specialist supplier but this is just a simple little cap it has a gasket and an extended tube to make it easier to cut the wall panel and identify things when you're working with tile, but it just screws onto the spout of the shower head, that's fine, it's the exact same diameter as the fixture itself and just squeeze that nice and tight now you can test the pressure on the entire line because I'm plugged up here with this and I'm plugged down here with a solder, so now we're going to turn on the perfect cold water supply.

We have all finished our plumbing installation system, now the final finish continues after the tile and that is also where the cartridge is installed here. The reason they have shut-off valves on this stand is so they don't mix. hot water through the cold water line. I know there are some systems that come with a test lid that don't have locks and I've had situations like that where you install your shower and before you know it, a couple days later, the toilets have hot water while you're in. busy in Thailand so they are designed to prevent water from flowing until you have the rest of the system put together and that's all you need to know, in many cases when we are working on a job site and we are changing the tub or the tub surround, the idea here is to try to minimize the scope of the work, unfortunately in this situation the client wanted to go from a standard 30 inch width to a 32 inch width and so that creates a lot of little nuances which we will cover in this video of bathtub installation because if you can install a larger bathtub in an existing smaller space, you will stop at any time on the planet, okay, so let's get started.

Just wanted to point out First, before we start, how about the quality of the tub we are using? This is a Maryland tub, it's called Tucson, the 32 inch one is called Tucson, it has an acrylic tub, but it's a sprayed fiberglass reinforced acrylic, okay. It is extremely strong and it is a little more advanced than some of the products that are available on the shelf at the construction store so keep an eye on this because the price is really minimal for an extra 30 or 40 dollars you can get an acrylic bathtub high quality rather than something that will have a lot of deflection and risk of cracking over time, okay, you will notice that this is a small piece of plywood reinforced with sprayed and glued tiles, but this is the skirt and this is the translation.

Much of the load is on the front side of the tub and when all of this is sprayed together with the fiberglass, it becomes incredibly strong. You will also notice that on the back there are a series of wooden block feet that directly translate the weight of the tub when it is full of water to the subfloor below so you don't risk having cracks around the drain without those feet, this ends opening and splitting many times and this crack here is not a crack that you can fix it with the technician ok they might come and fix it for you but it will crack again so the only way to avoid it is to buy a bathtub If you have these reinforced feet, don't rely on the skirt to take care of all the details.

The weight you need to support the bottom of the tub, so the only thing you need to keep in mind before you start the idea of ​​installing a larger tub than the one you have now is that you need to understand which direction the joists run. from the floor. If you don't have access from under the sea exactly because of the proximity of them, you run the risk that this could be a beam in the floor right here and if that's the case, when you open this, remember that your bathtub drain will move to a new central location and if it is right where the beam is, then you will not be able to install that installation there without compromising your joy force and that is a whole new world.

I know you can do this, but you need it. to design it and it is a really big expense, otherwise there will be creaks, cracks and movements, maybe damage to the ceiling below, so the way to check it is to go to the heating register vent in the bathroom, put the arm. Lower the hole and see which direction the elbow goes. Well, which direction the elbow goes will be the same direction as the beam. If they run this way into the tub, you will have plenty of room in your cavity to move the pipes. The new location is guaranteed, so the other things you need to consider is the surround around the tub.

Remember when you are framing the tub traditionally you will want to have wood behind the corner of the tub so you can put your fixed shower bar or even in the future if you are going to put glass or a door kit you want to have wood there, You don't want to rely on the strength of the wall board and tile to hold it up, so we want to make sure we restructure, we also want to add and any blocking at the same time to the features of our shower. The less work we do after installing the bathtub, the better.

Other than that, I think if we've cut out all the basics covered, be sure to check out. The floor level when they built the house originally may have been level, but every house sits in the middle because it is wood, everything will shrink a little, there will almost certainly be a slope and if you want your bathtub to be perfectly level. You're going to have to shimmy it a little bit, so keep that in mind as well, so there's actually three things we need to do when we put a larger type into an existing smaller hole.

One is to open the subfloor to reattach it. the drain we have to remove all this plumbing and start all over again and the third thing is we have to trim the tile and the subfloor so that the bathtub can fit inside that area like I said when the house gets a little older it tends to to lean in the middle and if I try to level this tub now, it will be flush with the outside wall and I got almost a half inch difference in space here by cutting all of this out and creating a new line that I can install. this time and we have nothing more than a silicone gasket available to the naked eye later on, so what we have done is opened up a bit of confusion here, what I thought was the pipe leading to the drain turned out to be the pipe only goes to the vent, this drain pipe actually makes a P-trap that comes back here through the beam and then back to the drain, which contradicts what I definitely would have done as far as my process, but it's okay what I've done .

Done, I went out and bought this brass drain kit and the reason I bought it is because of the flexibility that I need to move my drain to a new location around here, but all the fittings on this plumbing here are joint to joint. to join and although I can remove it, it takes a lot of work, so this allows me to change this tube. I can put on this new T that's made of brass. Put this tube in the center where it goes. I can go. of the existing pipe right here and I can actually snake around the corner of this pipe here, which is awesome, so I can get that extra inch and a half out just by bending my copper collar, this allows me to do all my plumbing. leak proof and it's much faster now it's only an extra 15 dollars more than the APS drainage system so I suggest buying it all the time you don't always need to use it but when you do need to use it it's nice to have it already everything is fine now for to be able to cut all of this, I'm saving my handy dandy inch and a half rigid pipe cutter, I try to cut as much as possibleof this tube and you just stick it on the tube that it has. a sharp tooth and cuts the ABS, you know, if I'm lucky I put it right up to the fitting, do it from both directions, you'll almost complete the cut and the secret to doing good plumbing is to cut perpendicularly and Try to cut here with this whip is a little fiddly and I could always put it here and fish it back and forth, but it's too big and cumbersome, so I went out and bought this cute little hacksaw just for special occasions.

This way I can get in here. You know this will take a minute, but it will do the job once you're three-quarters of the way through. Usually he will just abandon the ghost. Okay, so it's not necessary. I have to clean the AVS accessories with a sanding cloth, but I can't see what's going on behind them, so I just make sure to remove the old solvent, so I have to liberally apply the solvent to both. pieces and without spending too much time pushing the twist, put it on nice and tight, okay, now we just have to prepare our brass drink, this is all compression, with some positions, there are gaskets, some of us just screw on like here, so when it's just thread I use a pipe joint compound, this acts as a sealant, let me put it back where it came from nice and tight, okay, now these other joints, sister washing machine, a knot system, okay, so what we're going to do now is we're just going to measure where this goes, we're going to loosen this collar, well we have the ability to raise it or lower it, okay according to the dimensions of the tub, which is awesome, you'll see how this works here , put the ring first and then enter the washing machine. then okay let me slide this in and it fits nice and tight and the thing here is now we need to cut this tube so it fits right that's not my final location before we put the tempo riser on we mark the center drain on the floor . all right, we have the dimensions which are nine, four from the wall and 17 from that wall, so what I do is I go in here now, just see what is this that is 9 and it is not 17, so in To take it to this location, I have to shorten this tube, so what we want to do is go like this now and we're measuring up to the center hole.

I bought this bad boy, yeah, that's going to be good there, okay? eyeball which is roughly the edge of where my pipe goes you can see inside this fitting there is room for that pipe to extend okay I'll mark it you can see I have a half inch of play so if that's what I'm guessing I'll split the difference. I'm going to go to a quarter inch of play. I also have the ability to have this move a little bit on me, so it will be very easy to install the timing. Okay, so we just take the hacksaw and cut it out.

This is one of those cases where we're going to have some Santa Claus. It's sparkly, which makes many of you put on the accessory, okay, so we're on, let's put on the ring. gasket on, I mean, this is tight, it's very difficult to do it with gloves on, come on, okay again, we're still doing the rough adjustment here, we haven't connected or tightened any of the pins 17 right there, okay, now The Another thing we need to do is figure out how far off the ground the tub will be because we were using this type of drain system that we were actually able to connect to the original ABS that was coming out, we've set it to the cholera setting. all of our pipes created our center point here of 17 and 9 and we created our senator point here just according to the dimensions of the tub.

The only thing left to do now is simply trim the tile. I have a beautiful porcelain tile. Kinda here, I bought this at my tile supply store and it cost me 35 dollars. You can get something comparable at the hardware store for about $60. We're just going to vacuum and cut this out. Make sure you protect yourself. flying stone going everywhere lots of restaurants that's good there I like it so we'll just install a vapor barrier here for us has a cool little trick it seems to do this if you're a little short there you go so I'll use it someday, so we had our extra frame on the wall.

We now have the drainage ready. We trimmed the floor so we are ready to drop the tub in, so we are ready to install. our bathtub finally we have our recessed plumbing tied to the wall our drain is assembled your floors cut our framing is done the vapor barrier is intact and we have gotten to this entire point without expanding the scope of work outside of the The fact that we had to cutting the floor so far is a good day. Now there is no one way to do this. You will have to do a little trial and error, just remember that the back and each end are open so you have the ability to twist and roll a little when you try to get them into position, the key is to keep it off the ground at all times until that you are ready to put it in the last few inches so that you don't accidentally put too much pressure on one of the corners of the skirt which will always be visible and if you break it you have to go buy a new tub okay here we go so We are flush with this where is our? drainage and that will be perfect.

This is on the flex connection so we can snap it into place later. Now that we have our tub in place and we're solid, we want to connect all the plumbing before we connect the tub to the walls and I'll tell you why, because the plumbing only has so much flexibility down here, I want to mount this one to the drain and then I want to connect the overflow that is on the flexible neck so that it works very well. what we have is you're going to take care of one thing here and that's this protective plastic and now I'm just mentioning this because everyone who has ever gotten involved in building things and installing plumbing for the first time until they've had a leak and you found out because this plastic was in the way you don't know you need to remove it so I'll save you that trouble get the plastic out of the way you don't want to have any of that protective plastic where you're putting your accessories so you want to get your white silicone that is designed for kitchens and bathrooms and you want to put it on your thread here and a couple of lines and you want to put it just in a thin layer around the seal here on your first attempt to do this series of plumbing in the bathroom, some plumbers came and they became aware of the fact that this particular style of acrylic bathtub is not conducive to old plumbing putty and apparently there is concern that the putty will break down the acrylic over time, so they suggest using this bath silicone, so now you take your tub tool and we're causing compression on that rubber gasket that's under the surface of the tub, we're just going to lift it up until it's nice. and tight, here we go once we have it snug, run a screwdriver across the top and give it an extra half turn, okay at this point, wipe off the extra silicone, it doesn't need to be there anymore, now that we're done with it.

I always put my drink in right away, make sure it's covered. Now here's my overflow and I'm just going to reach behind it. I put the gas in its place. Now it is very difficult to install the bathtub and not remove this. Now you can see. I'm a little low. I'm going to stick that neck extension until it's shiny where I want it and this is where this kit comes in very handy. Many overflow systems have a small bar and you tighten it with a drill. and you just have to be in the right place and you may or may not have a good contact.

This one actually has a threaded cap that goes on top and this one here gives you the ability to back off until you feel it settle and then you go forward that way, you won't cross the thread, not really, if after twisting it a couple of times and it's giving you a lot of resistance the thread may get crossed so just go back and try again now you can use the tub tool here it's also fine like a screwdriver you can see here there's a couple of bits there's something against it than tightening it you're just going to find that middle ground because the back of that overflow is flexible and it's not going to just move up and down, but also turn it from side to side so you can get a perfect compression right there.

Okay, now, if you're ever worried about leaks, as a management tactic, you can put silicone around this plastic on the acrylic can. being silicone and creating a secondary seal which is the finish of this, it actually has this really cool little thing, it looks a little different than the S&B and it has a grooved groove that goes over the edge, you know how fancy that is that of not seeing each other. any screw is very sexy now it is inevitable every time you install a bathtub. One of the things we joke about in our business is that we never find a room that's square, you'll never find a niche that's square, so once you're done, go into one.

You shim around the tub and that is where you will place the screws to secure the tub to the wall. Once you've finished attaching it, cut the shims, moving them out of the way if you're worried about the acrylic. If it breaks, you can get a pilot drill and simply drill a small hole before putting the screw in. I suggest flooring screws because they are coated and won't rust as quickly, but if you really want to go crazy, you can always buy stainless steel. steel now here we go once we have everything set up and that's more than a shim thick here we go these are actually AC cubes or deck screws but they'll do the same thing you'll see we start and it'll drill its own hole and you can leave it almost flush, okay, don't go crazy with this because you'll break it and that's all you need, yeah, perfect, so once you have that here we go, we've got enough stuff installed, okay.

So today in the construction world we have many different materials available to build and waterproof a shower. I think in one of our previous videos we showed you how to just use regular drywall and use the Kirti membrane, that orange mat, and cement. on the walls and create your waterproofing seal, but in this video today we're going to show you a little bit different system because Kirti makes her own wall panel and it's half an inch thick, it's polystyrene, it has the waterproof membrane and it just reduces everything in a single step. One of the benefits of this board is that you can use it to create your own custom niche and you can cut the hole after you've installed the wall while you're laying the tiles to create that shelf. right on the gravel line, we're not going to do that on this particular project, we'll do it again another time for you today, we're just covering how to install it and the basics, so this comes in three feet by five. footboards or four-by-eight-foot sheets.

I have double checked that they are available at both major construction stores. The only downside is that none of them use Kirti Fix sealant, so if you download the instructions or search online how to do it correctly. I will be disappointed if they don't have the caulk. I'm not sure why it's not exactly necessary, but we'll leave it. The day is shorter. I answer that question, so what I did was pre-cut my panel. I prefer I buy three four by eight foot sheets and because when I do the math I have five feet and then three feet, five feet in three feet and then I control well, so it's three panels, it's nice and simple and I never have a problem if I buy the three feet by five feet.

I have it on three sheets just for this wall because normally this wall is six feet and it changes and that's maddening. Now here's the deal. This board is cut five feet and my hole is a bit. bigger and okay, they come with hardware, this wonderful little clip system and that clip over there has teeth, okay, and what happens is you put it on the Styrofoam, you press it, the screw goes in the middle, these are the stud and then you screw it in until there is a depression, and the way this works is that the depression is filled with cement and a layer of small 3 by 2 square waterproofing membrane and that's the entire system, as soon as how you put it, it's built like a submarine, you can go up 10 stories below ocean level and no water will get in there.

Now these clips are supposed to be installed every 12 inches on the stud every 16 inches apart, your bathroom may or may not have a frame exactly like that so don't worry it's a very stiff board so you can get away with a little slack. Yeah, in our particular case, our frame is pretty weird because here we have back-to-back showers, so I'm going to have a larger cavity, so I'm going to take advantage of this stud even though it's pretty close. I love Phillips screws because these boards have these wonderful grid lines and we're just making a substrate.

Nothing has to be exactly perfect. It makes life really easy. In fact, I can. Put that board there, mark my place. I can cut the entire board without straight lines. It tears like drywall and just has another membrane on the back that is very similar without the lines, so I justYou cut it and then you shave it. Now, if you are transporting these large sheets in your car, all you would have to do is cut the back, close them and you can make them half as thick to put in your car and then open them to install them. and it still has a continuous seam in the membrane, which means it still has a waterproof layer, so it's a very useful trick to forget about starting.

We'll put a couple of washers in there and lock it in place. It's time for next board, this is an awesome way to measure, we can just go here, identify where the other board is here, okay, so let's just look at this, take away an extra quarter, you don't have to jump on the roof with your wall board, okay? okay, you have the board a little short, as long as you're just showering now, if you're sealing it all up to do a steam shower, you also have to waterproof the roof at that point, it won't be a problem. but first aid shower if the wall panels are a little short and I say go for it, make it easy and convenient.

I like how easy it is to install, place the clip right on the joint and compress the joint and keep going now when In the last step, just when we are about to lay the tiles, we will mix our unmodified cement and make a nice joint with tape along these joints and we'll cover all of our screws with little squares and then that's the whole waterproofing system, so remember all you need to know is that you need to keep these things every 12 inches up and down the studs, try to place them on every thing you can find or 16 inches on center, use these special things on the joints and knife to cut and you can waterproof like a pro, so I discovered that one of the best secrets is to place the two long walls first, leave the control wall to crawl one last time here and then simply measure the finish wall board to the center of the plumbing fixture, which interestingly turns out to be 16 and because you use a laser level, all three will be the same now we want to measure from the top of the integrated tile flange which is six and then 17.

I want to get all my measurements. at once and have them handy and that's 65 now all we're going to do is translate that information to this board so over here that's my center line that's my center line okay so I'm six inches and I have six 17 inches I'm at 65 inches, okay, now I have all my measurements, all I need to make those goals is that's it. If you want, you can use a hole saw. It seems a little extreme and I'll tell you why up here we're going to have a shower head and it's just a half inch pipe that goes through the wall and the water starts here and goes down so the chance of it getting wet up here is very small, so you can cut yourself a nice moderate sized hole just for convenience, okay, and there we are.

Wow, that's for the shower head down here. I have a shower control. Now my deck pan is about five inches round and has its own gasket that seals against the stone, so I'm not as worried about water getting in from behind it. That part of the wall doesn't either, so I have a rectangle I want to cut that's about three by three inches. Yeah, let's start right and then for the top like this, of course, the same thing is just a half inch piece. copper and just to help make itIt's simple, I'm going to cut a one inch hole and then we'll slide everything into place.

Okay, now the secret to knowing where the wood is is to go down to the tab and just look for the screws. because that's not just fixing your tub that marks it right and that's how you know why you're studying, so I just have one screw here, I'm going to fill those two lines, I'm going to screw in the outside edge as well, but Because the old drywall is sticking out a little bit take a minute with my knife and cut it before closing it until the dimples appear so now all I have to do is finish all my screws every 12 and 16. and I have to cut a couple of small strips to place the bathtub on the floor, interestingly, that is the part of the bathroom that seems to move the fastest and is the most important, so make sure to keep some material right around it. for that position and once we mix the cement we're going to show you how to waterproof this so here we are we have all of our boards installed now there are all the clips you can see where we used the clips on the joints so you can kill. two birds with one stone the only thing really left to do is finish the waterproofing process by sealing these joints to make them waterproof now if you're not familiar with the Schluter product this is their joint tape it's kind of similar to making drywall , we'll really just cover it, now you need to use the right type of cement and so anything that is waterproof means it resists water.

I want to use a product that will get harder and harder over time, the longer it stays wet, so since the water won't be absorbed by the wall, I use an unmodified cement that is outdated for cement and use it to do all these adhesions because I found that trying to use any other product just starts to come off, so I know that Schluter makes their own product ready to use now, that's good for any application that is quite expensive. You can buy unmodified boring cement and it will save you a ton of money. It's really simple.

It's actually plastic, it's a woven fabric, but it's hard to cut with a knife, so be very careful, it's actually better to use scissors when working with this kind of stuff and of course if you need to know how to mix. cement, you can check out some of our other videos that are made on the Schluter waterproofing system and videos on tiles, now let's get into this. This is actually quite simple. In fact, I'm going to demonstrate it here now. I installed this board a little bit. a little shy on purpose, okay, as a demonstration, this is not meant to be rocket science, we're actually just going to lay this membrane up to the ceiling and physically measure it to where it overlaps to the top and Like I said, these things here They are a little difficult to cut, yes, so you may want to use scissors.

An idea here, so we install this. We want it to go down above the integrated tile flange so our waterproofing goes down and diverts everything onto the tub deck and then into the tub if water gets in behind the wall, so just as a note if you're buying this at the hardware store local and don't want to spend a lot of money on tools, you can use your regular 4 inch knife, just apply them fairly liberally and don't try to squeeze them when you put them on. Schluter makes their own tools so you can get all the thicknesses exactly right, but honestly as long as you're a little liberal with this, you'll be fine.

Now you take the membrane fabric and you fold it in half, you just run it over the top a couple of times and that's a great way to put a sew on that fabric and it will help you in the installation so you don't have to fight without everything the time you put it in the corner, then you can just put it there BAM just to reiterate that the waterproofing system works because this product and this product Both repel water, so water can't force itself behind that joint, once It's dry, there's just not enough room for the water to get a foothold and they've tested this about four stories below the ocean floor and the amount of pressure it takes forces the water through that joint and since we're not in the ocean , we'll be fine, so the scooter recommendation of course is to have about a two inch overlap, this tape is four inches wide and voila, that gasket is installed. completely waterproof, but the seams are pretty much the same, you're going to make a mess with these things, so don't worry, you can clean them later again, you want to have a 2 inch overlap there, come on, good now.

As far as the cost of this product goes, I will be honest with you if you are using this product it is because you want your bathroom to be waterproof or waterproof. Well, this was not a cheap product and it really works, but To give you an idea, a sixty-foot roll of this costs $30 each of these four by eight sheets costs one hundred and ten dollars, so you are looking at an investment. five or six hundred dollars just in materials just to waterproof and build. your shower, of course, if you are laying expensive stone and want it to last a long time, this is a great way to make a heavy-duty shower last forever.

The way we finish the waterproofing of the system is everywhere we have a penetration we need to seal that as well so we're going to add the cement and we're going to place these little squares over the top of the hole and we're going to press down with tape now that the area there has the same degree of waterproofing as the gasket again, guaranteed to move away. Generally speaking, you will never have a problem. If you are a homeowner, you purchase this product at a hardware store. There is one thing you can't buy because they don't sell it and that is Kirti Fix and it is a caulking adhesive.

Isn't it part of your warranty program? Requires you to use it on the base of the tub to seal the wall board to the tub. They don't sell it in hardware stores now, neither of the two major brands do. When purchasing a product that you can't get a warranty for, you have to get creative to create that cool seal that I found and we did this on a couple of previous projects. We made a cedar cooler with my deck. If you are using the Lapage two and one pate sealing link, it is made for indoor use, so the fumes are not very terrible and you can use it to seal the gap in the bathtub.

There is another way to do it, you can also cheat and seal. Up to these holes, you're going to love this now, this doesn't dry very quickly, so if you use it, you have to give it a couple of hours to dry, but I'll give you an example of what it was here, one two has nine Dollars. a sheet of this costs $30 plus cement and more waterproof seals. I don't know about you, but if I wasn't in a rush I'd do this all day, come back and tile tomorrow because the design is made for two. inch overlap at 40 person OC level, since we're just waterproofing something in the back of a shower, you don't have to worry as much about the math if you're close, as long as that hole is covered by even a quarter of an inch I'm telling you right now, you're not going to have any problems, so don't be paranoid about it, since you don't have any kriti solution and you have to find a creative way to solve this. problem, you could use the membrane directly over the bathtub or you can just bring it here and of course this is a special material that bonds little to almost anything and you can wrap your wrist around a nice thick bead along the bottom, okay damn and then just smooth it out a little bit with your thumb put a little bit of pressure on there so you know it's joined in all the corners you can also do it on the side and that's fine to close our shower we'll use a a four by twelve glossy ceramic tile, this is a brilliant product because it has a lot of flexibility, great style and easy, easy, easy to install, as long as we don't have your first real level, that's why it's very important to have your laser level by hand.

I can't preach this enough, every tool every homeowner should have in their toolbox, so before you start, a quick tip, make sure you have removed the protective plastic layer from the top cover that you don't want. let that get caught under your tile or end up causing your problems in the future and always have a bucket of water with a sponge on hand. I like to clean as I go, it just makes my life a lot easier and if you're doing This is professional to people every time they pop their head around the corner and seeing you working it's very encouraging for them to see the workplace clean and nice, so the beginning of a mosaic job is always the same.

It's called mapping it. think about how you are installing your tile now, our basic direction here is to start with a 50% offset, so it's a typical subway pattern, just a stack offset in the middle, so what we want to do is first measure our back wall. and put a center line and this back wall should measure 59 inches and that should leave us 29 in the middle right here so the process here is simple we just take a couple of tiles start with a grout line on this underlying line and We work outwards and you'll see we have about half a tile left, which is brilliant and because we're staggering 50%, every two rolls will be half a full tile and of course the same math if we start at In the middle of the tile we'll be left with a full tile on the edge side so what I'm doing is checking how level my wall is and I'll be fine there so if I use that as my starting row right there,then I cut a bunch of tiles in half, I can start building the whole back wall from this corner of that line and that's brilliant, if you don't have a laser you can always use a normal one. level but of course this never lies and now it's okay so in this case the right side is pretty straight the left side actually opens up so this tells me that if I'm going to go with half scroll I should start in this corner and then whenever I want.

It reaches my hand and I have to cut a tile. I can always cut it to fit without ruining my pattern, so I set this up here as well. You can see the laser line on this wall here at most. I'll get out of the way. The laser level that we're going to use now, this tub is installed flush with the subfloor and the house has a little bit of sag so the tub isn't exactly level and that won't be a problem because this is the drain. end now I have to set up the whole tile here when I get to the corner you'll see pretty soon BAM right there I'm already on my line so the way I laid this out and the reason I want the laser level here is I want to cut all of these pieces for the bottom row first so they fit against this laser level and then I can use my wedge spacers and make sure I have a perfectly straight line here before I start building the wall if I just start tiling you have a small slope, you will find it difficult to align all the joints in the corners because the mosaic will stick in all directions as you follow the slope, if you don't start leveling it, you may not finish the level, it may not look bad when you are sitting here building it, when you walk into the room after you're done, it will yell at you, hey, that's crooked, come on, we don't want you to know.

The easiest way to do this is to simply mark the walls and then take a look at your laser level and you can place the tile on your laser level here, sorry, in that wrong corner there and here and when you place it on the tile cutter. just line up the two lines on the cut line, mark and fit so now that our tiles are cut and ready to build the first row before we start, we want our plastic edges to determine what the actual outside measurement will be. to be and really the secret here, let's get something small that you can press that edge into, okay, you can attach the rest of this later, there we go, now we can set up our laser starting down on the socket and you just push that in. until it's exactly where you want it to look very nice.

Now you can see that the tile we've chosen here has a beautiful honeycomb on the back, which means I can use a 1/4 by 3/8 trowel. it puts on a really nice thick ridge they are great for collapse and those ridges and to be good at heejun and the secret here is to close that tile up tight without a grout line and then slide it into position now I have a couple of different spacers here today I have a 1/8 spacer I like subway tiles with a little bit of space a little bit of grout I just see it's much more classic and then these are shims now these shims are designed to help level it perfectly and also Create a small space between the tile and the acrylic tub.

Remember that the acrylic when filled with water will bend a lot so you don't want to have it in direct contact because it will cause squeaks so we just put a shim under it to create that air space then we can remove it and put it back before we go out and also you can use it to level it and then set your spacing with your spacer for your grout line, here we go. It's that simple, okay, because we already have the borders installed. I like to remove these little bits of wax as I go. I don't like to leave them until all the tiles are installed in case there is an accident.

Now I'm going to be tightening it down and then scoring - all the way down to the grout lines, hopefully, Matt, that will cut well. My son helped me today, he is making all the cuts, yes, no pressure, one of the reasons I think subway tiles are perfect for doing it. -Your work is because the tile is small enough and because it is made of ceramic, it is very easy to cut, you can use just a scoring tool that scrapes and then presses and it always fits right on the line. Matt Justin did this and it's a really nice cut and very clean can you?

Do that, that tool is available at the construction store for about $30, that's awesome, you can always get a wet saw too, but for this tile I would use the scoring tool almost exclusively and then for around this area, just buy a ceramic bit for your four inch grinder and you can use that wheel and cut any decorative holes you need and those are the only tools you'll need for this. Now you see that the edge of this tub has a little bit of rise. I'm not level and that's what shims are for, so I'll level that line with my laser first and then use my shims to raise the rest of my line, that's why I switched to the laser level.

Making my tiles is because I would end up making my level so dirty. I'm always putting it in the mud and I can't get a proper line unless I clean up all the cement and start over, that drove me crazy. This way I have a perfect line around the entire tub, not just corner to corner, and that helps ensure the job is perfect every time. So we just set up our laser level down here to see right over the edge of the tub. tile and so down here I'm just floating over the stone, okay, and then when I come across, your eye will play tricks on you.

I think it was level, it looked good, it was a straight line, but it wasn't a level. line, that's why these wedges are so amazing. In fact, I can make this adjustment until it's absolutely perfect, so now we have our first row all set. I am very happy with what is happening. Oh, spacer, come on, remember that we already checked with our laser level so we know that up is perfect. I cut a bunch of towels in half, so we're going to start with half a tile there, so now with this, like building a pyramid, put the cement on the wall and This is going to be a mess here, so when you use a adhesive, I always have that pale sponge on hand, clean as you go, try to keep the extra cement, how do grout lines work? or even both fingers okay what you're going to do is just place them right on the tile first okay start with two rows at a time here so we just pick up the drop of the tile with our spacers and because we have the way good. leveled just make the ends you don't have to put them everywhere just to hold the tile and keep it from sliding that's fine and that's it now we want to straighten our line here always make the cuts on the inside of course press it . to lift it up into the spacer system, where you need it, I like to start from the bottom and then lift it up to move the cement away from the grout line and then over and over again start tight to The tile is okay, this one slipped off the laser.

You can keep an eye on it and adjust it as you go. After about half an hour, these tiles on the wall will no longer be able to move with this type of cement. Okay, so you have a I have a little time to play with this nice and tight and the reason you make it nice and tight is a great way to check if everything is square and level. If I put it nice and tight I have a huge space. I know if it turned out well. That fixed something nice, so let's set up the spacing now just in case, once we have our line set here, put these spacers back in and that will ensure that all the grout lines across the entire wall are even.

There will be no large spaces or small open spaces next to each other, which always seems unpleasant. During the introduction I mentioned that we are making a subway mosaic with the glass mosaic, so now it's time to talk about the glass mosaic and why it is most necessary. Of the tiles produced today are produced under the assumption that you will have a 5 foot shower, so they measure just under 12 inches, plus the entire five tile grout line looks very nice from the point of view. Aesthetic view, easy to center, easy to install and in addition. They are also made to a certain height, so in a traditional 20-inch bathtub, which is now the norm, and in a normal eight-foot ceiling, there is about a full slab on top, maybe a little more, maybe a little less, but still It will finish nicely with a little grout or a little polish and will look like a full tile after the silicone trim is put on.

What you need to know is what if your situation is a little different and it will be just a splinter. What happens if you end up with only an inch of tile? What if your house is a little short or you have a bulkhead or you bought a shorter bathtub and the math doesn't work? How is that solved? And this is what we do. There are millions of mixed mosaic options of different thicknesses, one foot square sheets like this with a recurring pattern? Well, what you can do is follow this simple procedure and you can use your tile to make the adjustment to your finish before you get there. so they measure down from the ceiling okay we're a little bit under 32 inches so I check how that's going to look good.

I have a little more than 32 inches for a full mosaic, so the mosaic at the top of the ceiling will use this. I'm going to end up cutting them both in this particular situation this tile and this tub work because I already checked both sides and on the other side is perfect and the side that is inside the house is actually I have a little gap so I'm going to have some vinyl cut around the top just like you did on the bottom because remember I have a house square and I went and it fell off, so now all I had to do was cut the bottom row of the tile to make a level, the top will be cut to level and it will work but if you had a problem with that and it was going from 0 fill to 1 inch, I guarantee I will give it to you.

A 1 inch piece of tile would look like junk, so I'm going to back this up on a title row instead of the 32nd. I'm going to go to 28 and a quarter and that will give me all the space I need, that's my mark and I want to make my mosaic this thick so now I would take my sheet and at the bottom I have a thicker piece up here we have a thinner piece. I'm going to say okay, so I need a grout line if I use them, it's too much if I go here, it's too much if I go there, okay, what if I start?

This on the sheet is not enough, so that's what I'm going to use, let me use the thick one, two, three, four. and then I have a recurring pattern here, thick one two three four, which means I'm going to get two linear feet per sheet. I bought a couple extra sheets because I know this happens often and then we're going to put that amount in. tile around so we end up with a complete tile and that's how you solve your problems. This is a great way to fill in the differences if you are using a large stone, especially, you can put two bands on if you want now.

Wishon aliy We put it about five feet in the shower okay so stand in the shower it's up to five feet it's like a line of sight in the bathroom so when you look around the glass should be right in front of you your eyes, that's all. you need to know about mosaics of course this is glass so cutting it can be a little tricky and maybe we should go to the saw and show you how to do it so i'll show you how to cut glass mosaics if you have a wet saw it's simple , just place it on the table and slide it, but if you don't, it will use a grinding wheel and this is fine, this is a nice porcelain grinding wheel, the trick here is actually cut from the back is fine, reduces breakage and chipping on the front of the glass and it gives you a nice straight line and since I'm going into a corner I have to have a straight line so I'm just going to look at a straight line. this shorter tile here no, okay, so I wanted what you'll see is that I'm not cutting it.

I'm pressing down the middle of the tile and then splitting it and look at this right here, you can see the grinder only got to this point. and then Shh, it cut right, we go to a corner, the other glass comes against it and then that's all you need to do, you have to make one, two, three, probably four of these cuts for the entire strip of mosaic, other than the rest of these will fit the way they are now on the sheet so you can make a hole in the middle of the slab and this is important because you are going to place the bathtub faucet here and the bathtub faucet can or it may not be big enough to cover this plus the grout line and you don't want it to be a place where water can get through, so it's important to make enough of a hole for the pipe to come out.

What I'm going to do is I'm going to lightly touch these four lines, okay, and then I'm going to finish the cut from the back and if you look closely, I'm going to show you how it's done and then when I'm done doing it, I'm going to explain exactly.how I did it, so you'll see I started the cut on the frosting and then what I do is from the back. I can visually see where the line is and I use the grinder and just make us just a quick line on the back of the stone and that translates all of that information to the back of the slab.

Now I cut from the back, which gives me the ability to finish that cut without having the cross bleed right at the connection on the tiles and the radii of my tub I won't have any problem covering it, so now let's talk about the kerdi-band tea and this particular cement and while we chose this for our glass mosaic, the funny thing is This glass is usually heavier than ceramic relatively speaking and comes pre-attached to the back of the sheet. It is an adhesive. Now a lot of times these spaces that are between this glass are different than the spacers that you're using on your wall, so for example, we'll take one of these Oops and here's my 1/8 spacer, it barely goes there, but yeah I try to fit it between all these slabs, it doesn't actually fit in the four joints of this joint. the spacing is actually something like 215 instead of 216, it's a bit straight so the spacers are useless.

I can't use them, so if I'm building a wall like this and laying down my strip of mosaic, I can use a spacer at the bottom. and I can stop there and I can wait until tomorrow to come back when it's dry or I can use the right cement that will hold it there even without spacers and it won't slide, you know, it sounds ridiculous, but when you go to the hardware store you're stuck, you usually have three options of cement, there is a modified one and now I modified the modified one means it has glue and then there is an ultralight one that is good for laying tiles on the ceiling where I go from my tile products it has the complete line the complete map a line of everything that is available, so I have options in gray and white.

I have modified and unmodified for five different types of tiles. If you can dream it, they have the product there, so when you buy cement, if you go to a tile supply store instead of a construction store, you will probably be much happier with the result and much more. options, so something like this can cover the entire shower in one day or it can take you an entire weekend. Now, if you were to put two of these glass strips in there, it could take three days or you could just buy the right cement for the shower. work, spend a couple of extra dollars and get it all done in an afternoon.

I'll let you be the judge now when I'm mixing cement, generally speaking the first minute of mixing I want to have a little less product than I need. just to make sure I can clean out all the clumps that sit in the corners, of course always add water first, here we go, now I know the thick soup will be able to handle the rest of the smoothness I pour. there, so you just want to mix this one in, so you don't want to wait ten minutes, where you're supposed to allow it to settle and then come back and you're done.

Oh, I need more water because it won't work properly for you. you just destroyed the cement, so you want to mix it fine enough to the point where, when you pick it up, it will hold the trowel groove, but it's still sloppy, that way, within ten minutes, when it's ready, it could be a little firmer. Put a substrate that works well on the wall. Now we bought this cement to use in our mosaic, but since I like to be efficient, I will do the rest of the wall with it because I don't like to mix just a little bit of cement. in the cube just a little demonstration here ready this means it doesn't sink there you have it yes, I'm using 1/4 by 3 it's shale which is a lot of cement in our good good adhesion but 90% contact just by throwing it like this to the wall and it didn't slip anywhere great product this is the white cement it looks a little gray no but this is the white and the reason we chose the white is because the glass only has a paper on it and then all the edges they are behind the sheet, they will actually bring that color, so if we use the dark gray cement, your white glass will turn very dark gray, we don't want that before you put the glass on it.

I'm just going to make sure that my edge here is nice and clean and this is important when you're making glass, make sure this edge here is nice and clean. We're going to start at the edge here and the same as the On the other loop, we're going to start right at the base, it's nice and tight, and then I'm just going to lift it up and what I'm going to do is use my tool to lift it up so I'm not pressing against it. wall I'm just going to give it a little pressure, that's it, it doesn't move anywhere when I place the mosaic on top.

I'll get exactly the same result which also won't move anywhere. I'll already put my grab line in there well done, so for some of these trickier places it's hard to reach, you can't travel in and around this corner and since I was busy building that other wall first, I let this dry out. , feel free to add cement to the back of the tile, okay, be very liberal, wait. your trowel between 75 and 80 degrees and then just remove it, we'll end up getting the same thickness as on the wall, okay, like this, do all the sides of the hole, remove the extra cement and then just shoot it. there you are good, so the only other thing you need to know is this, when you are done with the tiles, the next day come back, take out all the spacers, take the wet sponge, force it into all the lines and clean them.

All the cements that we are using here within 48 hours, you can clean them quite simply and it will actually clean up very well without any tools or risk of damaging your tiles, also when you are rounding the sides down. At the bottom of the tub, you usually do that at the end of the job, save some of this tea product, okay, from Mapai, and use it there as well and then you can build backwards knowing that the tiles won't slide and cause a big disaster That patience, patience, patience, keep your lines level, get a laser level.

I can't stress this enough and you will have a successful mosaic job too, okay before I start doing this let me talk about the pieces real quick, the real Bell pro. The system comes with a surface mounted plate that screws to the roughing valve on the wall and has a gasket on the back that seals the tile. Now, depending on the condition of the slab, you may or may not want to use a silicone bead afterwards. You're done, a lot of times this type of thing doesn't work if you're using subway tile because there are inconsistencies with the surface texture and grout lines if it's a very large piece of stone and you're cutting it correctly. in the middle, so this is enough to seal it, so what you have to do is take the long screw, which are very large, place it on the wall and just slide your fingers over it to know the surface it is on. the depth of your surface that you have to put the screws into and then you look back until you see the next ring, and this one is a soft brass and you just take your side cutters and give them a shot like this and that. it's cut to size again, just confirm what I did right there, we go back there and use your side cutters, okay, there we are and now we have our plate, so we slide it over the edge of the valve and we want to do this first. before we add all the other pieces because we need extra light to come in to find the hole, okay, just move it around and squeeze a finger for now, here we go, okay, wonderful, the next thing you want to do is put on the glove. because these brass fittings that they make for shower valves are very, very sharp and find a place to put them that's not going to ruin anything, take out the temporary test plug, throw it in the trash, okay, in this particular case , you have to be very careful.

Be careful to check your instructions for all of these things because each system is a little different, in this particular case there is an extension that goes with the valve, probably because the valve body is made very deep by this particular manufacturer so that it can manage pressure balance. multiport thermostatic valve plus so this is just an extension of this valve here so these two pieces sit together and then this end here with the gaskets and the pins will sit right on the bracket so all you do is is to slide this in and there you have it, once you feel it sink into those two pins, you're good, now this is just the chrome decorative trim that goes over the brass fitting.

There is a hole near the front that goes on the bottom, in case water gets in. on that valve and it has a drain shape that doesn't go behind the wall, another good reason why when installing the valve on the wall don't be afraid to install it with a one degree slope that way. all the water that goes into that valve will drain out the mouth now there's a gasket there we go you want to tighten our screws and just tighten them don't overtighten it's just made of plastic and you'll destroy it and then after that just put this in the name of the company that rebelled because on the bottom and you put it in place with those screws and if you ever need to take it off you can get a good grip on it and give it a good tug and it'll come back out so here I was so focused on making a video I forgot the most important part, I was about to turn on the water in my brain when Wade, you haven't put the yes, look at this if I don't put this. on the first wait the assembly will shoot across the room, ruin my silicone work, ruin my day.

Now here is a tool before you go, that would check the manufacturer's instructions. These guys are actually not a big fan of the keys here, even though they are set up. so they want you to squeeze your fingers for a reason because they want to make sure everything is lined up correctly and you may feel like it's okay if you start using a wrench and it's not lined up correctly, you might not even notice it. Here we go, a quarter turn is enough. I know from experience that that was going to work very well. Here we go.

Oh, before I put the handle on, I have to put this back on or do it a little bit backwards, but this will still work. The water is still turned off so I can cheat, put my set screw in there, okay? And then don't forget the lid so that when you open the water it doesn't get completely wet and it looks quite hot and cold, oh that's simple. Okay, we've got our face plate, our handle and a little set screw cover all in place, so we can leave that for now, let's move on to the top, now the tub spout and of course, we as you, just take it out and I'll do it. show you this unit, this should be slide out, yes before you go you did the plumbing for this bathroom.

I asked the company why I didn't have the final finish on hand and they assured me it was slideable, etc. that's why I ran half copper and put a test cap on it and of course it comes with its own allen wrench and that's the set screw for this so you have to remove it and you'll see that it comes fully inserted and it will work. You're crazy trying to push that onto the line, so back off until it's out of the way and now you're ready to install. Okay, the handle and we're just going to grab a little pipe cutter.

Now the sliding starts here and there. There's plenty of room in that pipe all the way to the bottom so you can see we're ready to go, so what I usually like to do is cut it off as much as I can here about three inches in case you ever want to change. that to another system and you need to have the ability to weld on a male thread some of these fittings that come have a threaded tube here so this way if I leave a little bit of extra tube and I have to weld on a connection and do any other plumbing on another date, the options there are for someone if you cut too far back just makes it very difficult to fix later, not all companies do everything the same so it's good to leave yourself options when you're working.

When you're in this business, you'd be surprised how often you'll get a call from a client five ten or fifteen years later and they want to make just a small modification for a couple of changes or even six weeks later, this is I've got some water, drain the line so it's not under pressure here we go of course remember we're going to use our silicone when we're done with the final finish so as soon as you can that water cleaned the grout so it doesn't absorb too much you better want to have that great line as dry as possible when using silicone so you know what is going to stick before you put the accessory on, grab your sanding cloth. that just give me a quick polish okay if your ridges aren't too sharp it won't ruin your little joint here and it won't hurt your fingers either just force that one okay you just want to make sure the name is up and everything looks square , reach underneath with the allen wrench, find that little spot, okay, here we go, remember these are all plastic pieces, so don't overtighten them, just make aGood and solid, here we go, what's that old song two? three isn't bad, but we're not done yet, this is the real Bell Pro for jet shower head, yes, but three jets for our heads and rainfall shower head options and it's just manual control right here, you You must love it, oh, that's attractive.

The shower head is okay, so this particular use head assembly also comes with the arm and there is also a little flange here and this is good, it comes with a sticker that tells you which direction the water should flow, which It's kind of funny because it's traditionally the longest piece. of pipe goes into the wall and that's a normal thing so it's good to see that I've been doing it right all these years so this is nothing simple it's nothing compared to this this flange is really basic and it's just a compression fit. It's okay, you just want to move it and there are little teeth on the back that have come out of the can, so you put it in there like that, that's good and done, I hope I don't get soaked. wet here either oh yeah oh here we go okay if you haven't seen the project video and you're not familiar with the moment, buy them at my plumbing specialty store and this one is the same size as this pipe but it has a little joint. on it, these are temporary ones that I put in there, it's a locking system, it's also an ID system for installing wall panels and tiles, it's the exact same dimension as my pipe, so when I install this I know exactly how to do my cuts so that these little zip ties that they come with when I go to install and they cover that hole perfectly, no guessing, I love it, here's my system now to install the shower arm and the wall, okay you want to take your tape of Teflon and just roll it around three. four five six seven eight nine ridiculously ten times and I'll tell you why I'm paranoid.

I'm doing a compression fit inside a wall cavity and after turning on the water, if it doesn't work it will leak and no one is under until it makes a huge mess on the ceiling below and since I'm paranoid I'd like to overdo it a little . I also like to take a little bit of this thread sealing paste and apply it to the female. fitting inside the wall, so now I have two types of stamps that go here, come on, okay, now here's the secret, back up a little bit until you feel it there in the room, okay, wow, this is going to fit snugly. . right out of the door so it's hard to tell the difference between cross threaded or newly installed brass and brass, now you want to wrestle with this until you get it perfect, that's exactly nice and tight, just the way I like it, though, aim up with the ceiling so we have to fix it so these shower arms are not made of metal that won't break so you have to be gentle and careful with this but I like to have a little more influence over this instead to hold it here.

I like to hold it here, so I'm going to put a screwdriver right through the hole, twist it, and use wiring on the pipe. Okay, now the shower head has little flat pieces on the neck. This is for one key. It's surprising how many people will call and complain. there's a little trickle of water coming out of here and going straight into your tub, oh gosh, but it's happening now, there's a gasket in here, okay, so it should just work with compression, finger tight, so I do it. What you think you have is a tight scope.

On the back, find those little flat sections, give it a couple more turns and try to get it in as tight as possible. Now, at this point, you should be pretty torn about that joint and how you make sure it's done. If you grab the faucet, put it on the flat pieces, okay, and then you give it a couple of turns, but make sure you only grab the flat pieces of that shower fixture, so now we have all of our fixtures installed. to clean double our silicone and then we can test the whole system, it automatically goes to the perfect bathtub, so we are pretty much at the last stage of our project and this is done: the bathtub, the shower, the tiles and the accessories.

All done, now it's time to make the silicone. This is the last step we have to do to finish inside the tub frame and there are some tips and tricks that I'm going to share with you, so follow me as we go through this when I shower in the tub. I always want to have two types of silicone, one is clear and the other is white or the color that matches my stone if I choose the natural brown stones of Of course, I use the page, there are grays and, if you go to a good supply store , you can get silicone in about 15 different colors, so don't be afraid to shop around and make sure you get the look you want. when you're done, but since we have a glass mosaic, I'm going to start with my clear silicone and we'll do all the clear silicone areas at the same time and then we'll change everything, okay, so here first remove the tip, now my cocking gun has a cutter on the side which makes my life simple boom okay and then I also have this little wand that's attached to it, it's a little dirty here but it's usable because the tube itself is sealed. and I have to pierce the seal so I can release the silicone once I'm done, it sits back on the handle, I put it in the holder and line it up.

Now I cut it a little angle and purpose because I find it easier to install, one of the things you need when your silicone is, you want to have towels nearby, okay, you want to keep your hands clean and keep your area clean as you go because you pricked it with a dirty Stem. I'm going to start by cleaning it up and making sure that what comes out of the tube is exactly perfect. No, because it is glass mosaic. If I use white silicone here on the grout, I'll get a very uneven, ugly line. all over my glass, so I'm going to start right here and just run a little bead over there, okay, and then I'm going to put my dry finger on it as soon as I feel like I have a lot to build up to. up I'll do it okay that's simple and in this corner just a little bit of pressure and this particular gun when I let go of the handle but I have to put some fun pressure here and that releases the pressure inside the tube so the cocking It should stop coming out and we will start with the dry finger.

The other place I need clear silicone is on my tile wall fixture. Now depending on the stone you use, you may or may not need to do this, but because I made a subway mosaic. I have too much texture on the wall and too many grout lines interrupting my installation, so I want to make sure that the water running down this wall can't get behind my wall right now. You don't have to go all the way around, but I want to start at the top with a drier finger, of course, wipe with the towel and then go back to the other side, here we go, yeah, the next thing I want to do is a new towel. little trick here wrap your finger in your towel and place it on your plate use your other finger against the plate pinch your finger and then just run it around the plate okay what this does is make sure you clean the silicone off the chrome nice and stuck to the wall so it has a nice look and finish, so we also want to do the same with our bathtub bed and here we are again, we don't need much, there really isn't a space here, but I hear a lot of people worry quite a bit about this scenario and they are probably right to be anyway.

You know we have a waterproofing system. There are holes in the wall and this is the most common penetration point around fixtures. Just a little pressure here. I don't want to put so much pressure on them, they clean everything. I need you at the same time. You don't want to leave it there either. Okay, similar system to clean it only this time. Well, I'm holding the towel. I pinch myself. finger and I take out the other finger and use it like I'm writing, well, here we go, remember when you buy your silicone at the store, if you go to the hardware store, they usually have three types, okay?

I have kitchen and bathroom silicone and then they have mold and mildew resistant kitchen or bathroom and then they have mold and mildew resistant kitchen and bathroom but it is really amazing and will last 20 years. I have never seen a bathroom that has been put together for 20 years. old one that didn't need to be replaced, so I don't spend the extra five dollars on something that tells me it's going to last that long. I just get the 10 years and the lid goes back on yeah no don't lose your teeth they're just plastic oh I mean really yeah there's a lot of debate now about silicone in a bathtub.

I've seen people say you shouldn't touch the inside corners, don't touch the tub with the tile wall, it shouldn't be. grout to ceiling I would like to apply all the sand and seal everything because when I apply silicone I only do one application. I don't want to have to put so much silicone in there that it's just making a big mess. I don't want to have to tape the ceiling and walls so if I grab first I have a backing for the silicone to adhere to so what I do is make sure you wear your shoes and do this or you'll slip right away . and your socks start from your inside corner with the toe angled like this so when I apply mine and push them out but I won't scrape them off the back I'll leave enough there I'm filling the hole and this really takes a little practice keep the right amount of pressure, if you don't feel comfortable with this you can always tape it and then you can clean it and then you can remove the tape later. but this is the best way to do it here, okay, again, dry your finger and I'm really just connecting the ceiling to the wall here and that's it.

I feel like there are too many things, so I'll bring my rag with me. back you have to go away and come back again go back a couple of inches and gently towards the corner and slowly apply pressure again okay BAM okay so I'm usually working from top to bottom okay I want to be able to clean as I go I advance. and I started in the corner and pull and clean, you can see the difference because the cocking is not where the cocking is, it's a very easy visual thing to handle, let me get my point straight, here we go, just run it.

Move the cocking gun a little bit in front of the cocking and now always clean towards where you were, like you were doing drywall mud in the ceiling joints, so what we're doing here now on this side of the wall because the room was not there. leveled square I have a pretty significant grout gap and when you only apply silicone in the grout up to the ceiling but not on the tile you will really see it, you know, it always screams at you so I did the top joint and now I'm filling. on the bottom while the top is still waiting, mixing them up here, okay, instead of my finger at an angle like that, I'm going straighter now I'm trying to fill this space with silicone up to the tile, okay, mmm. it's worthless and I'm very happy with it, okay, next thing we're going to bring it down from the inside corner of the roof and we're just going to fill it in a concave shape.

You know, there are cut tiles and different joints here. I remember that we are clear. here, so don't be too clear, what you want to do is use your thumb and just push it back and start right at the seam of the tile. Well, visually I want my silicone to start where my slab is fine and even in the grout is fine, but don't take it down to the glass as it will look very cheesy and scream, so now I start from the top with my finger and I press it dry, done, okay, of course, always keep that in mind. looking to see if the tile has been polished properly, okay, if there is dust there, take a second and get rid of it.

You don't want to stick the caulk to the dust or it will just end up wiping off. So now we are done with silicone on our walls with the silicone in the tub, but before we get to work, remember when we were originally working on this project. If you haven't seen this, you should check out the other videos we were removing. the wall without damaging the ceiling which is difficult because they had drywall tape now we installed our tiles and used silicone on the ceiling which the ceilings already finished painting if you are in a situation where you have to paint the ceiling.

You only have two options, you can wait for the silicone and until you finish painting or if you are just trying to touch it up and you have silicone on the ceiling, when it is dry you can put painter's tape over it. on top of that to create a lead and then you go to the store and buy a can of Kill Kill Z. It's in the paint department in a spray can and you just take a couple quick shots that kill with silicone and you can paint latex. Other than that, you won't have any problems, so the last thing we need to do is apply silicone around the tub and tiles to create that nice clean joint.

Remember that it is not part of the waterproofing process, but it is part of What makes it look nice now? If you're not familiar with acrylic tubs and you've only used steel, then you can go ahead and do it with a steel tub, you just do the seal and go, but if you have an acrylic tub in there. It's something you haveWhat to do before using the silicone and is to put weight in the bathtub, and the best way to do this is to simply turn on the water and let it fill halfway, so now the reason we have to do this is because it is a very flexible material and although it has supports and all kinds of sprinklers underneath, if I could demonstrate some other technique for the vast majority of subs sold out there, you would be disappointed that not all tubes have as much support underneath. or so much fiberglass reinforced spray underneath, so if you go to the hardware store and buy a tub and get a great price, it's probably because when you fill it with water it will sink well and sink.

Move away from the wall a little bit, so if you add the silicone when it's empty, when it separates, it will break the joint and then you'll get all the water and dirt behind it and even though it's waterproof. It will start to get ugly because it will catch all the colors from dyes, shampoos and dirt and then before you know it, a couple of weeks go by and your silicone joint looks like garbage, so you have to do it. all over again and that's a lot more work than doing it right the first time, so in the same kind of process we're going to put our gun in the corner and we're not going to add too much, like again I've already grounded that joint. and I have crowded the joint because I use a tub that is reinforced and has feet and I know that you are not going to move it much so I am not going to have that break take my cloth put my finger in the corner and I felt a lot of silicone there, it is okay so there's too much so what I do is I push against the back wall and not at the bottom and I just wipe the edge off there we go a lot of this is just an experience but a little bit of practice and you can become very good at this.

I suggest that if you are going to do a renovation project like this, before destroying everything, cut away the existing silicone on your ugly tub and tiles and then try to seal them again. just so you have a chance to get some experience with the product that way, when you're ready to do the finishing work, you know what type of pressure to use and how comfortable you are with this process. This is incredibly important here, even if it is good. pressure on this silicone because this joint is part of your waterproofing system this is not just for the sake of being pretty most of the water penetrates between the bathtub and the tile it is in this area of ​​the wall right here there is no waterproof joint after the silicone between the board wall and the tenth, this pretty light bead leaves a little dough on the top, of course, you know the pressure I'm using here.

I want to really feel the tub and the tile with my finger on both sides, you move around the corner. Here we go, nice and clean, okay, come on, where am I going. I cannot stress the importance of having clean towels on hand; paper works too, but this is nice and durable, so now we're ready to do the last joint, which of course, is the tub to the tile, make sure you vacuum clean, make sure there's no dirt and the same as want to leave, that bead really consists here, move at a nice steady pace with constant pressure and you'll end up with a great result, well this is part of the waterproofing system, this silicon will actually prevent water from getting into the tub and the floor tiles, so I'm actually trying to force it into the spaces here, so it takes a little bit more effort to see it right because I'm actually forcing it pretty hard.

I'm running it up the side of the tub wall and all over the floor, so like I said, it's a little different process here, okay. This time I'm going to put all the pressure on my finger on the floor and not in the tub just so I can move that line back. You can only do this with the drive finger. If your fingers get wet, you will only stain it. and make a mess, so remember that the last thing you're going to do is take a look at the wall and floor tiles and think about the water potentially getting up here, especially if you have young children having a bathtub in here. seal this area as well with just a small bead so it's almost significantly fine and there's two things you're doing here, one is getting rid of the little gaps and cracks and your finish so it always looks pretty, this is also cosmetic. but by filling this with silicone you are also waterproofing this joint, okay, that's all you need to know to apply the silicone again.

The steps are quite basic. A lot of pressure. Make sure you fill in the spaces. Make sure the surfaces are nice and clean. and then let it dry, don't be in a hurry, most of these silicones you want 612 even 24 hours, so read the instructions on the can, everyone will have that information there, let all of this sit with the water in the tub overnight , sure. and then maybe in the morning you can come and drain it and wash it all and see if you've missed anything, if you've missed anything, you want these touch-ups done within 24 hours, okay, if you leave everything. perfectly clear and then add silicone on top of silicone, it doesn't stick very well so the next morning is the time you want to take a look, if you have air bubbles fix them right away and your bathroom will stay nice and dry so in In this video, I'm going to share with you a construction trick so that if you end up shipping one of your existing tiles and you don't have any more, there's a way to fix it, it may not be perfect.

It depends on how good an artist you are, so here's our chip. The story is that we did a great job doing a demolition and then the customer asked for a tub that was bigger than the hole so we had to use our grinder to cut the tile. line and that came out perfect and then Maddy my son was cleaning the subfloor and of course his hammer hit the edge of the slab and caused the chip so everything doesn't come out perfect all the time and I'll show you my little trick to fix this. When you go to the hardware store, you can buy porcelain enamel, these little bottles.

Okay, and you go to the tub section and you usually have a little display that comes in a little white box and they have all the different manufacturers that they sell and they have a porcelain enamel. Yes, what they don't have is gray, so you go. to the paint department and you buy a can of gray stain ok you had a couple of tools in the cardboard box and you mix them all together now they are both oil based so I have a great tile I take the gray stain if you have a different color tile, you can go to Michaels paint department or something.

You know you can get some oil based paints and all their different colors and you basically take your paint and mix it with your glaze until you have something that looks a lot like your tile now, it's probably a little light still. I'll add a little more of my dye. Here we go. Generally, you'll want to do this in about two applications. Come here and have a little. Dab, you wanna just use your little tool? Pull it to the edge where the polish came off to get the color of the stone and polish. Okay, there you have it, so now, if there's too much, just take it. your tool flat, pull it back, okay, the only thing left while it's still nice and wet is to take a little bit of a paper towel and just polish the area around the stone that's not included with the chip, okay, done , now it's not perfect, but it's a lot better than that chip that was there two minutes ago, yeah, some polish kit, here it's this handy little piece of sandpaper and what you do is give it about an hour, let it dry, come back and you can sand it nice and smooth and if you want you can mix a couple more colors at this point put in a little bit of a darker color and you can mix it a little bit, you can even get an artist brush , OK? you can just put a little bit of that two tone texture on there and you can put in as much time and energy as you want, as many coats as you want, just do this seriously and in between coats and when you finally get the one you want.

What you're looking for is just walking away now that you're sealed on that floor that's waterproof again, so most people have a piece of damaged wall board, whether it's a renovation like we were doing here behind us , where we have a little problem with the seams or they have a dent in the door handle on the wall or they are just going to repaint a room and they have little holes where they have photos, screws and plugs, so today I'm going to share my secret with you on how to fill them. all that stuff and the reason this is a big secret is because it feels super fast, you don't have to sand it or prime it and you don't even need to use two coats of paint to finish it right, this is my secret in the trade, always that I have to do a touch-up and I'm ready to get off a project and I see something I don't like, I can take five minutes and fix it. that before it goes out the door and it doesn't need any work after it's done and here's the trick you got from touching a four inch knife okay let's go to your store and make sure we buy them that's how you want.

What you have to do is take some gypsum 45, right now this is a quick drying drywall compound, it comes in powder form and you have to mix it yourself, you take your hock, you put it over the sink and I just want to make a little volcano here, okay, and this is easier to do by a lot, it's harder to do by a little, but you really want to set up a little volcano, okay, here we go now before we get there. Started the secret here is hot running water, make sure you run the water first and once it's hot take it to the volcano well.

This will take a little practice to get used to how much water you should put in there now that you want. hold it and you have a couple of options: you can leave it there for about half an hour or so, but it will harden faster and then you can mix it or just take the knife off the edge and lift up some of the looseness. powder and shake it in there like you're icing a cake, okay, go around the volcano, your cake if it starts to come out a little, don't worry, there's not enough water in there to cause a problem, not once you've done it.

If you've gone all the way around, it should start to become more like a paste, okay, and then you can just break it up and mix it right here with enough of it, okay, no mixing tools, no cubes, no fuss, no fuss, here yourself, in your heart. your orange knife and just work this in now it's more of a paste now you just want to flatten it out now make sure all your bumps are out of there okay the smoother it is when you put it on the wall the easier it will be finish just mark there so yeah, I love this so now I have a drywall compound that has a hardening agent here that is chemically activated and anyone who knows any science knows when heat is added to any type of chemical reaction. it speeds up the reaction that's why we use hot water in this so usually 45 minute mud with normal cold water takes 45 minutes to an hour to set up but if you add hot water you can send it in 20 minutes if you have very hot water or if you live in the country with a lot of minerals, be careful because this can set in five to ten minutes, so what we're going to do is show you that you're going to apply some of this mud here and this is my finished coating, all right and tight and I'm really pressing this here and its goal is to fill in every little scratch, every ding, so that this wall is nice and smooth, this particular wall had like this resurfaced with a new corner because we changed the tub and I just started working on this this morning, this is now the third layer of mud that I'm putting here, okay, here we go, that's going to be beautiful, you know, we tried to have this channel. to show people all the tips and tricks to do the job themselves.

I remember that even the most complicated project still needs a simplified finish, so here we go, we'll just double check to make sure everything here is okay. Hey, it has bubbles. This was done. Before, a lot of people had commented on the channel, you know, can you wet sand? Is there a way to keep desks low? Oh I'm just doing a small space and I want to make a mess this is the system for you so just grab your sponge you get them at the building store in the tile department this is for making grout and I'll demonstrate it to you here very quickly, this is clay that has just been pressed, it has wrinkles and these must be eliminated, okay? and you just lay it out there, let it dry, you're ready to paint I know it's that simple again, you know, just go over your accessories, remove the excess, see any ridges, just wipe them off, ready to paint. and the best thing about this 45 minute mud is that even after you wet it, because it has a hardener, it will dry in just a couple of minutes, so if you want to finish a job the same day, you can take up an entire room. all your patches and then you don't have any priming to do or you already finished your projectand you hit a wall with your ladder on the way out, you can do your 45 minute mud, put it in there real quick. a few minutes you even grab a hair dryer to help dry it with a damp sponge, okay come back with some paint get a little mini roller and you can touch up your paint job and be out the door in an hour and that's it money in the bank, thanks. for joining us in this edition on how to renovate your bathtub and bathtub surround from A to Z, we have covered a lot of information in this series, but we also have it broken down into individual videos on our channel in case you are doing maintenance or just addressing a small aspect of this, we also have many other videos from A to Z now, so we have a playlist.

For that, check out the link at the end of the video and remember if you are handling a big project like this for yourself and you have questions, go to the comments section, we are here to help you. Well, give it a like if you liked the video and we hope to see it next time.