BUDGET 1995-2000 CIVIC HEAD GASKET REPLACEMENT (209) 305-1672

Well today we have a 98 Honda Civic when he changed a

head

gasket

and customers complained of white smoke in the exhaust and there is exhaust coming out of the radiator, obvious signs that the

head

gasket

did not mix with the oil, so It looks good today too. We are going to make a

budget

change. We already know when a water pump was changed and they are new, so we won't change them today. The client wants it to be as cheap as possible, so we will show them how to do it. make a cheap head gas to change in a 98 Civic BAC what we are going to need spark plug socket 1/2 inch extension 1/2 inch ratchet a pair of 3/8 long reach ratchets and in the hinged pair extensions of 3/8 we use gear ranches yes 12 14 and 10 millimeters your wrench and socket sets are pretty basic what you need on this job deep socket - 14 12 and the 10 millimeter shallow sockets are also the same 10 14 and 12 also a 14 half inch drive for the head bolts, you need a torque wrench, a gun just to do some things a little bit quicker and a variety of pliers that you can get from Harbor Freight.

We won't be changing the time on the water pump today so we won't be using this this is all you need to change to remove the unwanted balancer bolt okay also to do this 98

civic

the 1.6 liter almost any Honda or any head you made, it's always good to have a ruler, I bought this one on Amazon, buy OEM tools 25 rotates accurately within a thousandth of an inch from end to end, make sure you have one of these, look under the car you will see a little hole here, that's where the radiator drain is, just turn it clockwise, drain the coolant out of the radiator, okay, we've got two cars up, we've got under the car right now, we're looking at the part bottom bottom of the intake, that big piece of aluminum there, it's just a black bracket, we're going to remove that bolt, that 12 millimeter bolt, the spark plug. the cables just pull them by hand they come out straight it is a little difficult give them a turn on the distributor we are going to remove the three 12 millimeter bolts that one and that one here it is easier to do those with Phillips wrenches here I already loosened it, take out the intake air temperature sensor, take out these bolts in danger, they are loose, time to take out the clips, push this one back and separate it, I just want to pull it out, then some wall is going to fall, well, I have a towel waiting there to grab it, there is no need to remove the spark plug wires from the distributor unless you are changing; otherwise you can leave them on these two clips here and that hose, inspect the hose here.

Also where the curve is they tend to leak. from there a watt that causes the head gasket to explode, for starters this hose tends to be a little sticky. I bought these pliers from Harbor Freight, they are pretty awesome, it reads around the hose, twist it tight and pull it out, be careful. be careful with the VTEC cables for the connector, they tend to be a little soft, then remove the vent hose, you have the ten millimeters, we're out, you don't need to remove the valve cover bolt from the rear cover, you can lift it up the valve cover with the bolts still working, as you can see there is already a new valve cover gasket.

If they are long, it still fits and doesn't stretch, you can reuse it along with the timing cover. every time to cover the cans there's a 10 right there, 10 back there going into it once you took the lid off the loaf UH, yeah, this 14 millimeter bolt right here, only this one is holding on to the analyzer income bracket and everyone just remove that bolt now that we have the same power mount the bolt took out just one bolt through 312 meter bolts on the exhaust rod now that all three bolts on the exhaust path are out remove the clip to the Otwo sensor, push the center tab in, just slide it out of the bracket and push this because the feed through the exhaust path that way you can't remove the 12 millimeter bolts one two three four five six seven eight nine of them in total now, if you have the 12 millimeter nuts removed, just take them off.

I have another dropdown menu. I love it. Sometimes there is a bolt on some years that attaches the exhaust manifold to the block. It is generally a 40 millimeter bolt and is facing downwards. Now it's not there on this vehicle, but you just replace and remove a 14 millimeter. bolting from below makes it easier, there are also other years where there are two 12 millimeter bolts on the bottom of the downpipe holding it to the block with a bracket, just remove those nuts basically as long as we have this drop down menu, okay below. We're going to mark that this job doesn't actually take the time that it's about to take off, we're just going to take it off and show you how to do it, so we're going to mark where the belt is on the gear.

Note that if we are using the same belt, we already know that it is a new timing belt and a new water pump, it is not necessary to remove it completely, mark it on the gear on both sides standard and then we are going to remove 10 10 10 10 and 2 4 6 8 10 12 millimeter bolts we're going to loosen them all just break them quick we're going to work from the outside in on all of them you don't have to touch that one just these two It's hard to see there's so much bad oil in this one engine, but there are ten of these bolts and they are all 12 millimeters.

This is where the gun comes in handy, especially there is no need to remove the bolts completely, the bolts really help. keep it lined up and the last two are fine and even now I'll show you why your screwdriver is jumping this way. There are 30 jobs. I recommend getting some gloves. Some people aren't afraid to have oil on their hands, but they will tell you what they are working on. years working on cars year after year after year, that side up, this side appeared, so I'll give it a soft stone, I'll take it this and that end and we're pushing it together at the At the same time we're moving it because we don't They want these little springs to pull everything apart and come out, there is a complete assembly, don't remove these bolts, they hold it all together.

Next, we are going to lift the camshaft. That's why we ring that bell. I'm sure you grab some rags, not on this side, yeah, I pull this camshaft out and watch the timing belt come loose. Now next you slide the timing belt out a little. the tight fit, but yes it is a tight fit, you can't move a power steering pump, but it will make that whirring noise for a while until all the air bubbles come out, so we just work the belt past capacity. -pressure hose on the condenser there you go, don't worry if the belt jumps over the crankshaft down, it doesn't jump timing on a Honda, that's fine, that actually has to be pulled down and out so the teeth they move.

I don't want any trolls making comments saying it's the time you're wrong because the crankshaft is going to skip timing with the belt, it's not and if you say that I'll know you're an idiot, keep the job going. a little clean, throw some paper towels out here in the oil valleys, give it a little time to absorb, pick it all up nicely as you raise your head to that wall, it just spills everywhere of course if you don't mind , Sometime I'll have to start unscrewing the head bolts as much as possible, so call here too. Okay, next time for the head bolts, ten head bolts, yeah, the 14 millimeter bolts here, there, there, there, etc., let's loosen them. top reach from the outside in the form of a support loosen is first here a crack leave it there I'm going to loosen everything like this working from the outside to make sure I leave some tension medium tension yes just a little bit beyond the crack is very It's important that the head is tighten down evenly, it also needs to come up, so now they are all loose and go a little further, now you can remove almost all of this tension, the reason is that you don't want too much tension, focus on just one. or two bolts could strip the bolt from the block and that's not good and you stop drilling and tapping the block.

I'm not putting in time for the shirts, the last one see the head shake when removing these full bolts, the washers come with them, not like a Toyota, some of that will be very dirty, yes, 10 bolts almost with that and to remove the high pressure hose from the pressure pump comes out fine now if you want to remove the head completely the next thing you need to do is remove by holding the inlet to the head right there right there there the bottom corners but the ones underneath are difficult reach and you can go under the car, you can maneuver your hand up there and try to reach it or you can pull down when you stick your head out, you can reach under it and grab them with a ratchet.

Okay, now the head bolts are out, just use the pipe by the jack handle, you'll lift it up with one of the exhaust kits that should appear. very easy like this using a big socket just support it so we can put a ruler on it and check the deformation of the head, it's not even heavy, actually you can do it with your hand to hold it and the head joint with it, be careful. so as not to lose these alignment pins, I can see it, they fall out, they get lost, they belong here on the front, as you can see, it's blue, so basically that means it's a buddy's head, yeah, this one was made before This car has three hundred and eighty thousand miles on it, so I doubt it still has the original heads, that's all anyway.

I'm going to clean both surfaces, the surface of the block and cylinders and the surface of the head, and use a ruler to check that the head is resting when walking. Wipe it with a cloth. When you measure the ruler, you want to make sure you don't get these things in the way, so you're going to put the ruler right there and if you can see what I see, I can't. I think it looks pretty good. You can use a feeler gauge to check it just in case. Usually around four thousandths is tolerable, but in this case I can see it being even less than that.

It is also very important. It's also obvious, but sometimes it's necessary. It should be mentioned, but the head gasket on the right, this is the correct way, it is not, although the Atlantic pins and bolts will line up, this is not the correct way, one is not aligned, but everything else looks okay, aligned, aligned. aligned aligned aligned aligned you won't notice until you put the head down make sure all the bolt holes are lined up and you can see that everything is as it should be okay now that the head goes down it's very light. I'm holding that with one finger it's very important when you put the head down it goes straight down you don't want to shake it back and forth because that could cause the head gasket to get stuck on a lip and bend keep it real straight If you have problems, you can look through the hole in the container.

I'm going to close them very quickly, very lightly. Now when you tighten these bolts, a lot of oil goes into the bolt hole and it will actually create like a hydraulic system. resistance so go slow, go down, but if I try it gives a lot of innocence it will almost feel like the vaults are coming apart or frustrating you just go slow, go slow, pick it up without being nice and slow, remember I'm not going to shoot these screws. super difficult, I just use a little quarter inch adapter, but in the next video we'll talk about it.

Well, now we will talk in depth. I have the torque wrench set to 14 pounds, which is the first weight if you don't know how to do it. use the torque wrench, you probably shouldn't do this, you should go in sequence starting in the middle after the 14, we're going to go to 236 pounds and finally we'll finish it with 49 and you recheck the two center bolts after you. I'm done talking about the rest Center, start from the center, make like a criss-cross pattern and continue like this until you end up the opposite of when you take it off, yes start in the middle, everything goes down evenly and smoothly as you take it off squeeze, okay, now we are.

I'll do 36 pounds, which is very fair, if you don't know how to use those torque wrenches you can always buy the digital one from Harbor Freight. We've used it sometimes but this time it's relied on differently but it's fine as long as you keep the same pattern that's it 36 ​​yeah we're 49 he's 29 foot-pounds foot-pounds yeah , that's the first pass, 14 second passes, 36 third passes, 49 foot-pounds, once again, place the pattern starting in the middle to make an axe. Finally you get some torque, just double check the center two to make sure they don't come loose. If your head is straight it probably won't, but it's standard procedure and this is how you rotate it down for when you remove the camera. you have this little oil seal here now, this one the customer said is actually only a couple of weeks old, so we're not going to change that one, but if you need to change it, you have to change it without the cam, take this off. 12 the cam comes off, slides the seal, slides the new seal back in the same direction, but now we know that the sealIt's new, so we're not worried about that.

Push this belt out of my way and the cam goes back down where it's going to paint. marks we made before I'm going to lift the cam again now this gets a little tricky, a little tight, but yeah, make sure the seal is pushed in, you don't want it to come out that way. it just filters the whole world down if you're doing this job and the camera is in a different position and you might feel some resistance when you push this down because these lobes might be in your way now that I'm I'm going to do it, but this guy , everyone, squeeze it, squeeze it and keep it all up, just write where it was, don't lift these arms, make sure they don't push the valves, a little rocky, a little, some realize. it doesn't go down easily, it should go down anything, but who's eyes don't push the camera back and forth a little bit. and get the channel right, okay, now the bow hangs down, if you have the VTEC, you'll have to these little ones right here, make sure they rest on top of the can, if they come out, they'll tie an email pronoun and make sure.

These guys are still inside their hole, they move back and forth, watch these guys do it so the little dimples are facing out and the part that mounts on my camera rests on the camera, so let's do it just for a matter of time. make sure it is hot on the tip of the valve that will hold it. I like this ratchet here from Harper Crate because you do a lot more with it, just check all the contact surfaces and when going down you will feel abnormal resistance if it's not going to go down, don't overtighten, you risk breaking the tube and break the bow more.

The tens on the outside are removed by hand. The head is ready. Now it's time to wait for all the other components to turn back on. Push the exhaust. don't forget that if you didn't remove the gasket then there is no reason to worry about it, when it shouldn't be supposed to go back on, make sure that when you put the cover back on you put this water back in through the hole. they are yeah, three twelfths rusty, whatever your toys look like, I don't know, chances are they look rusty like these things, especially if you're dealing with a 98, the radiator hose isn't too tight, is it?

TRUE? Everybody wants to drop these clips, these guys. best gauge this one is for the computer all those three measure temperature this hose feels good no holes put the valve cover gasket back on the valve cover don't worry if the bolts fall out just make sure you don't lose them The oil dipstick holder Toyota has the same, but Hyung has Honda has a lot more, you don't have to worry about mixing them up. The run time before putting the valve cover on is very important because we absorbed all the oil that was inside the valley under the cam, it needs to be lubricated before starting it, so we are just going to pour some oil directly into the valve train and we know it will go to the cam, otherwise in the first few hundred revolutions the cams don't turn. being lubricated because the oil has not yet risen from the engine from the block and will wake up the bridge cam and ruin the spark plug tube seals, circle the spark plug to make sure it is president, like I said, ideally I'm putting in new ones, but not everyone wants to pay for it, not even the little things, sometimes they don't want to wallpaper, so I mean, we harden these guys over there, little, skinny, 10 bolt, little tents, you can use a gun right there to make it faster, okay, now I have the distributor outside, something that people don't know, especially when they have oil leaks in Hondas in general, how these distributors, this little O-ring here becomes hard as a rock and of fact they stop stealing, yes, take it off and put a new one in, so if you see a Honda that has a distributor and the transmission is well covered, it is most likely coming from this o-ring on Jupiter that we are going to install now, you will see directly on the ship.

Look, these two tetras here are not centered any closer to this, but if you didn't turn it much when you took out the distributor and the cam is still in the same place because you had it marked, I should slide back, but if not. I think you can see it's not easy and if you keep screwing in those 12 millimeter screws, you run the risk of breaking this thing and it won't work. Let's go ahead and get this guy charming for the first time. Will you be able to do it. feel it too that goes all the way in it doesn't feel nice and solid that's it yeah now we're going to put those 12 meter millimeter bolts in, but I'm not going to tighten them yet that's how you adjust the timing.

Now, while he's down there tightening that 12 millimeter bolt that was at the beginning of the video on the bottom of the input bracket, remember, buddy, don't forget to put this 14 bolt back into the ground wire on the chassis. to the head, okay, now let me take the distributor wires out of the cap and then you can put the wires back where they work, the long ones, you know, since they fit, if you don't know, if you didn't put them up, don't start , I don't know the firing order of all Hondas and almost all four cylinders. I'm going to have the same firing order 1 3 4, so I'm number 3, number 4 and number two, the distributor turns clockwise.

I put the total moment meter bolts back on, but left them loose so we can adjust the timing if necessary once we reset it. I didn't forget to reconnect the VTEC and both VTEC cables or the charger, except I didn't. Think about it, next up will be the air filter housing, the air filter housings will go back on, it's a little difficult sometimes to maneuver everything in there right down to the big bulky piece and the intake air temperature sensor that's in there , the dipstick, again, has new oil. Now it has new coolant and let's see if this starts, fingers crossed they give it a boot level mat to walk on.

Allah, as necessary, until it lengthens. I know Moe will fit in there. Remember this is an inexpensive head gasket chain. He can do all this work. 129 31 look at some videos that say we didn't do it right. We know we didn't do everything directly. This is for DIY. You do it yourself on a strict

budget

. Okay, there are a lot more things you can do to get this job done. your new perfect spark plug wires and plugs zoom in the head things like that this person here didn't have much money the engine ran great had great compression only a small amount of coolant leaked into the cylinder new head gasket will be the easy job The job is fine as long as the other self is taken care of, which was adding a new thermostat.

He already had me talking about a new water pump. The radiator already had a new fan switch. All it needed was a new head gasket, a little leak, so if you want. To go ahead and do it yourself, this video shows you how.