Why I DITCHED dot & dabbed plasterboard for a batten wall

Hello, I'm Viik, the carp's daughter. Welcome back to another installment of remodeling this living/dining room just around the corner, but today we're going to focus on the dog biscuit, which is putting up sheetrock on this alcove

wall

, ready to put a TV in there. , so we have a power antenna point and Ethernet sockets which will be sorted out later anyway. I took what she said into account because I was going to dot and dab it and then thought, am I going to foam it on the

wall

instead? To reduce clutter I originally liked the idea of ​​batting it but at the same time I want to dot and dab it because I've never done it before but you said what if you want to add some wires hidden behind the wall later? as to why just Batten it and that's fine, I quite like the idea so that's what I'm doing.

I also like the idea of ​​adding more wood to the area where we will mount a stand later, so I really want to get to work. this one so we will use full sheets of drywall which is 1 12200 by 2.4 M and this is just a cutout of the previous one and when I put masses on the wall I will put them every 400 starting from the corner and when it gets to the end of a complete sheet. I need it to be halfway between the baton and the slats. They are not the biggest. They are 19 mil thick by 38 mm.

Wow, and they are 2.4M long, so I haven't needed them. to cut anything and that's usually the height of an average house, so the first thing I did was remove the bits of mortar that were sticking out along the edges. I haven't done it completely because I'm spacing them every 400MM just so I can give a flat finish to the wall, so before I mount these masses on the wall, I just want to explain that some of them are not the straightest, so anything that looks a little bowed, I'll leave it for one. side for now I'm sure I could use them for extra support unfortunately that's what happens when you buy them in a pack you can't inspect them individually oh my gosh I didn't think they were that bad that's pretty cool right?

Perfect, but it will if there's something that arches like that in the middle. This is the curve I want to face the wall and then I can straighten it out by mounting the top and bottom to the wall. You may be wondering why. important because I am going to fix it to the wall. I'm only going to put one screw into the wall every two bricks. I don't want to put in lots and lots of screws because I also need a lot of surface area to mount my plaster. board, so the first thing I'm going to do is secure this to the top of this wood stud with a drywall screw and I need to bury that as well and make sure it comes out.

God, it's hot. here again I completely forgot to say that I was already around here just to check if everything is Plum and if you look over there, it's more or less everywhere exactly the same, but what I might find is that I might have to do it. use the odd packer if, for example, because it's not the thickest wood while I'm putting it together, if you look here, see if I understand it's up there and it looks plum there, but when I put an odd screw in, I could just throw it away. in a moment, so I might put some other packer in there to keep it absolutely straight, just to also show you that it's kind of level there, but what I want to do now is fix this on the brick.

I'm going to fix it to the bottom brick because that's where the moisture proof layer is, so I'm going to fix it in the middle of this brick and that, for example, if it is tightened too much, it looks like it will move a little bit. I can put a package in there so I'm going to pre-drill with a 6mm masonry bit and instead of using raw plugs and screws I'm using masonry screws which look a little different if I have a problem you may have I have to go up to 6 and 1/2mm, but I'll try to avoid that because we've noticed that this Breeze block can have a tendency to crumble a little.

I haven't put any tape on it either. on this bit because that's the length of my screws, which are 82mm, that takes into account the thickness of this Ward and this screw, but before I drill with my masonry bit, I want to make life a little easier and drill with wood. drill a little bit through the wood and then we'll switch to the masonry one. These screws also come with the Torx bit you need to screw them into the wall. See how it was introduced there and it was very early? I realized I needed to level it with the Packers the first time because removing them to add Packers and then screwing them in meant the screws could lose their grip completely, meaning I would have to drill and screw in a totally different place.

Oh, that's not good. I also found the moisture proof Co layer stuck out a little further than the reeze box so I had to pack the doughs in more than I expected. That's better, so for my walls I found it's best to pre-drill with a 5mm masonry bit. I then pre-drilled through the wood every other brick with my wood drill bit, but this time I used a counter-timing bit to make sure the heads of my screws didn't protrude during storage of the plastic liner and then moved on to drilling with my Mo bit. It was quite time consuming to constantly check the spirit level and try different Packers, but I wanted my first batter to be straight as it dictated a level line for the rest of the wall, so I already have my first batter before I do that. the other ones I just want to work the last one for the sheetrock, so this is just a cutout of exactly the same length 1.2M and the end is there, what I'm marking on the ceiling, but that's my halfway point of a of the masses, once I've mounted it, it should give me enough surface area to screw two sheets together, but I can't attach that one yet because I have plaster in the way to make absolutely sure that the end of my sheetrock would meet in the middle of the baton I used a combination of spirit level and tape measure and screwed the cut sheetrock to the bottom to hold it still while I mounted the batom to the wall and then removed it to finish mounting. once I knew it was safe, now I have my critical start and end, now I'm going to mark every 400, so 80 again, the drywall cutouts went back into the dough to keep them stable temporarily while I mounted them higher , but having a Batton level on each side for reference now made life much easier to check if I needed the pack or not, so my camera ran out of battery yesterday and I wanted to move on, so I'll quickly show you what I did where I came in and put this pattern here, which is the end of the second panel that we're going to use.

I put this end here because it's obviously the end of the wall but the next ones I need. The stalls are in the middle here and we obviously have sockets in the way so we've decided to do something slightly different instead of having them 400m apart like before. Instead, I'm going to put one there next to that plug. Now I know it's a little closer than the others, but if I went with a true 400 it would mean cutting a few things and then another on that side, so for speed I'll just mount them on top. According to these boxes, put them directly on the bottom, and then start to arrange them.

It's easy to be clumsy at this job, so they're all also packed where necessary and leveled, and that took quite a while. Now I go. to screw some Noggin bar cut head rails between the top of the slats that way I have another surface to screw the plas board for the bottom ones I'm just adding angled screws so after putting the slats on the wall I took more advice and where the mount for the TV will go. I cut some wood exactly the same thickness as Baton Rough, did it with my little compact saw and just mounted them back with the same masonry screws on the wall, so today is actually drywall day and Before I hide all the mass, I need to quickly mark where they are on the ceiling and floor.

I'm going to do it now and these marks will be useful later when I combine them and draw on the sheetrock, so when I screw the sheetrock to the

batten

s it's less likely to get lost now. I have marked on the floor where the slats are. I also need to do it with the top, so I already made one there. just make it a little bit bigger because the sheetrock is going to be thicker and another one there obviously I don't want to touch these electrical elements. I'm just going to use a little bit of chalk to say we're not going to go there, we can go there.

We're not going there so that's a noo and when I get to Coing that will be an area I won't touch either. I'm also going to mark on the side wall that won't be covered where the bracket is. It'll be more or less in line with it, so these are my sheets of drywall that measure 8' x 4' and no, I don't need that many, but we have other areas of the house to do. I have measured the height from floor to ceiling and it is about 2.4m long but we need it to be raised off the floor in case water spills and stuff later and the plaster will absorb moisture so I What I have done is put some 12 1/2 mm pieces. of drywall as packers on the floor and I've already measured to the ceiling from that point and it's 239 CM so that's what I need to go and cut there so I'm just going to mark a cenm cut.

Take it down and then finish it off with my surf form for the first one, we just need a full sheet, we don't need to cut anything out so this should be the easiest and another thing to worry about is when we turn them in. The size is a little damaged now. I could ask them to return them and bring some new ones, but that would slow me down, so since I have to make some cuts, I'm going to have the end of the trash touch the wall. and the good ending is the final aspect that will then join the next one, so I have to be careful which end I do if you're wondering.

I just chose 12 1/2mm square edged

plasterboard

, there's nothing special about it. It's as cheap as it comes but I will need help moving it because you may have seen me plastering the ceiling and it was quite a challenge trying to do it on my own now because I'm not a professional. I don't do this every day, the first thing I'm going to do is mark a centimeter and then when I mark it with a stationary knife, I can use that pencil line as a reference to see if I accidentally slip and go off track. so I'm going to try to cut it with my very sharp foot knife, but since there's only a centimeter, a hand saw might be better, we'll see.

I'll do it a few times because it's a very small cut, so I'm just bending. I'm not too worried about the slightly rough edge because I can smooth it out shortly. Now I need to cut the back so that the end is a little bit rough at the moment, so I'm going to smooth it out, so now our first class board is cut. I have my impact drivers nearby and one screw was attached to a magnetic wrist strap. Oh, and by the way, I also did what you said and bought some drywall screw bits. I had never used them before. but hopefully it will set the perfect screw depth where it doesn't stick out and doesn't sink in too much, so I'm going to put it in there and I need Mr. tcd to help me lift the first one up for a second.

Let me. I'm going to have to leave it because it's uncomfortable, okay? So I need to try to place it in this corner. I have a good eraser, so please put mucus mucus mucus back on the cutting board to cut off another inch because it was too much. tight and hooked to the roof, okay let's try again, but this meant adding more Packers to the bottom to lift it up to the roof, so now that I have it propped up and level, I need to quickly put in some screws to keep it there. so now I have a bunch of screws just to keep it there.

I'm drawing where my masses meet the top and bottom marks and then screwing them in every 20cm after some trial and error. I set the drywall bit to sink. The screws just past the face of the board so they could be easily filled in later for the second board over the baseboard, this time I pried them up with a makeshift foot lever which allowed me to lift it up while hitting the face of the board with a mallet. and some wood to try to make an IND on the back so I know where to cut the holes for the plugs.

Then we carefully lowered it to the floor, resting on some boards where I could cut them with my multi-tool, but it was hard to see. The faint lines were drawn around a spare rear box and repeated at that time. Then I did the same with the only other one I could see, the outer one, so initially I was only able to cut the outer one because I didn't get these marks on the back. I had to put it back on the wall and put it back in the mall, so I have my impressions, but for completeness, some areas are weak, so I'm going to go over it again now that it's secure enough to handle on its own.

I drove screws dry. at all times while avoiding my cableselectrics, now this was the best part, the final section, knowing I had almost made a nice narrow strip which I marked along with a ruler and bent it to cut and smoothing and bracing was easy with my crowbar and screwed to the exposed battery end of anyway, you get the gist with this. I'm going to leave this job to Mr. tcd while I go and edit the video because he got stiff here, we have the air unit on, you know, oh. Hello, well I'm still here 2 days later, but we are seeing progress.

No, we haven't put in the plugs yet. We'll cover that in another video, but Mr. tcd went through each screw hole and filled it with filler. I also had him do something called pre-filling, filling the drywall joints that I sanded and then I'll put paper tape on it, but this time I'll do it. I won't show it to you in this video. I'll leave a link below, but this time I'll first soak it a little in water and then put a fresh filler on it and then try to apply it for hopefully a flawless finish. Also, the TV we plan to mount here has surrounding lights that will reflect off the wall, so it has to look good.

I might end up having to put a cast on it, but I'd rather try. First, also, this job shouldn't take as long as it did for the dining room ceiling, but overall I'm very happy with how it looks, by just removing the brick and putting this here, we've gained a lot of space in the room. but once this is painted, obviously we have to think about a color scheme, we'll put some kind of unit in here for the logs, some log storage, so I'm probably not going to go with a plinth here, but I've thought well should I have stuck with Dot and dab or gone with this and really yes I think dot and dab would have been a lot faster because you are working within your adhesive drying time limits which could be 30 minutes to an hour I had a lot more game time to work on this and get things right the way I wanted, which I think is a particularly forgiving approach for beginners like me, but of course if you do something different, if you have other tips and tricks. let me know in the comments, but I'll be saving the dot and ab adhesive for the brick wall around the corner, so I hope to see you next week on another project, but in the meantime, I'd better get started on masking tape of paper, but if you want to see me do this, I will leave a link to a previous project in the description below and I will finish with water in a bucket because I needed a soaked mixture to get there and so my paper tape better stick to the wall thanks for looking goodbye