We exposed BEEF to the vacuum of space, then ate it!

Hi, we took some time off and spent a little over two weeks in Florida and we actually filmed some of the highlights from that trip and posted them in our latest video. If you're interested, you might want to check it out, but I'll give you a warning: it's not your typical high-tech science video; It just gives us the opportunity to share some of the things we did and some of the fun we had while we were there and for those of you who are questioning, no, it was not a tax deductible trip. Now we've had a lot of questions over the years about how we come up with ideas for our videos, most of them are just based on things I've always been.

I'm fascinated or my kids find them interesting, some of them originate from viewer comments under other videos and some are derivative. When we come up with an idea for a video, we do a little research and

then

make a decision about whether it's a topic. In general, that will be interesting to people, is that something we can physically achieve or is it something that may be too sensitive? For example, we've kept a couple of videos about advances in Crisp technology due to the recent global human malware event that took place over the last few years, but if it passes those tests,

then

we dive deep into the research, do the engineering, we create the project and we make the video and in that process we often touch on related topics that in themselves are quite interesting, but they are also.

Tangential to the main video to include with those videos. This is one of those derivative videos. A couple of years ago I did a series on epoxy, how it works, how to work with it, how to modify it, and one thing you discover every time you're working. With a resin system, it can be epoxy urethane silicone and a hardener or catalyst must be added to the resin for it to cure. As you stir it, you will inevitably introduce air bubbles which turn into a previously clear, milky type liquid, which is not as good, if you are applying a clear coat, it can have a small negative effect on the properties of the resin and if the Bubbles are large enough near the surface while curing, they can leave craters.

Not good, a simple way to fix it is to take the mixed resin compound, place it inside a

vacuum

chamber and apply a modest level of

vacuum

for a couple of minutes because the bubbles start at atmospheric pressure when you remove the surrounding atmosphere. They become very large and the force that pushes them upward through the liquid, buoyancy is related to the cube of their diameter, their volume, but flow or resistance to movement is related to the square of their diameter, the surface area. , so large bubbles will move much faster to the surface and break than small bubbles.

Just like the large bubbles in a glass of Seltzer versus the small bubbles in a pint of Guinness, once the bubbles have been broken, you reintroduce the air and recover the previously clear resin. It works in a vacuum. Cameras are also useful if you are infusing. wood with resins to strengthen it or preservatives, wood contains a lot of air that is why it is so light. If you place the liquid inside the chamber, place the wood in the liquid and then apply a vacuum, those liquids will diffuse much more quickly into the wood. through the capillary. action if they are not blocked by trapped air bubbles because these techniques are so useful and relatively common that you can go online like Amazon and buy a kit for between one hundred and two hundred dollars for this purpose and many of them even come with small vacuum pumps incomplete ones that are perfectly suitable for that purpose in a more recent video we made on how to make graphene yourself at home, if you're interested take a look.

I think it's a pretty good video. The bottom line is that I needed a vacuum chamber, so I hooked up one of these chambers to a much better quality pump, a two-stage mechanical pump from Yellow Jacket that is quite popular with HVAC technicians and when I tried it I discovered that I could lower the camera to approximately 12,000 atmospheres. in a pot so I didn't need as much vacuum for the video but it got me thinking you know how far you can go so I decided to try that now many of these kits will be supplied with a small hole in the side of the chamber to be able to connect vacuum lines or vacuum gauges and bleed valves, so I took a step drill and drilled this hole up to 18 millimeters in diameter and then welded a short length into the side of the chamber. of stainless steel tubing that simply provides a much better flow path so the gas can leave the chamber and enter the vacuum pump.

Then I decided to add another stage to the pumping and I connected a small diffusion pump and if so, I wonder: yes, I have diffusion pumps out there, but I also have turbo molecular pumps out there and the reason I chose the diffusion pump spread is because you can buy a small pump like the one I have here for less than 200 on eBay or Surplus Sites and unlike turbomolecular pumps with their electronic controllers, high speed motors, super tight tolerances, there are no moving mechanical parts in a diffusion bomb, so no matter how used it is, it will most likely work unless of course it has a bullet hole in it. on the side now the way it works is kind of interesting at the bottom of the chamber there is a small reservoir that contains a specialized fluid in the past they often used mineral oil or even mercury today it will almost always be a Diffusion Pump Fluid based on synthetic silicone that has a very high thermal degradation temperature and at room temperature has an extremely low vapor pressure.

If I lift this thing, it will never evaporate. There is no aroma under the tank. There is a small heating element. When the heater heats this fluid, the vapor pressure increases and the vapor begins to rise through the larger of the two pump tubes. It is guided through the center of that tube by a small diameter tube or chimney and at the top there is a conical deflector like this and There can be one, two, three stages of these, what happens is that when the steam reaches the baffle, it is redirected downward and outward and when it reaches the cold outer sides of the pump, which in some cases is air cooled, in our case water cooled.

The vapor will condense back to a liquid and drip back into the reservoir to continue the cycle indefinitely. Due to the heat, the diffusion pump fluid molecules actually travel very supersonic, so if a gas molecule moves toward the pump and enters the vapor flow path, it is forced downward toward the bottom of the pump where the four pumps or the primary pump will remove it from the system, the net result is a pressure differential between the top and bottom of the bomb that can exceed a million to one, is quite impressive now. Warning: it won't work at atmospheric pressure, there are simply too many air molecules for the fluid to keep up with, but once you reduce the pressure to about a thousandth of an atmosphere and the lower it goes, the better it starts working, another little warning is that even though it is possible to get a small pump like this for less than two hundred dollars, you can spend the same amount on the liquid, this product is expensive, but it lasts almost indefinitely and a small pump like the one we have here only requires 30 milliliters, so a bottle like this would be enough to power a fairly large pump, although they get very large, the largest ones made won't fit in this room.

Then I added one more stage to pumping a cold trap, now that the way they work is pretty. interestingly the gas leaves the lower chamber to the bottom of this volume here it makes a 180 degree turn and returns to the fusion bombs the idea is that if you put this part of the trap in a cold bath it can be ice water dry ice The liquid nitrogen, as we're going to use, anything that condenses or freezes at bath temperature is trapped inside here, which helps protect the pumps. Downstream of contamination, it can remove volatile oils, solvents, water vapor, carbon dioxide and liquid nitrogen temperatures. even oxygen and because it removes a large amount of material before it reaches the pumps, it also improves pumping speed.

Now you can use them in any direction in or out of any port, but if you think you're going to build up a lot of condensate, you don't want to pull the vacuum through that center tube because with pressure changes you could divert the material back into the pump. , but if you're not producing much, it doesn't really matter now that I've connected everything. As you see here, I ran the system for about 45 minutes and was able to set the meter to one micron or basically one millionth of an atmosphere in a pot with a glass lid and a rubber gasket.

I was really impressed, so I invited my wife to come and I said what do you think and she said wow wow, that's really cool, that's fantastic and then she asked the devastating question: what are you going to do with that? I hate that because I thought, well, I don't know, I mean, I built it and it works, it's really cool and she's like, Yeah, honey, but what are you going to do with it? Now she knows me, she understands it, but she made me think: What am I going to do? with it and what happened is that because this is kind of a budget vacuum, you might be willing to do things with this or this that you wouldn't be willing to do with a high-end vacuum system with its expensive pumps and valves. and engines and then what would happen if he

exposed

a bunch of common materials to a prolonged period of vacuum?

What's happening to them? It occurred to my son and he said, yeah, actually that sounds kind of interesting, that's what happens with things in deep

space

or orbit and that's when the light bulb went on now, before you stop, people Start writing like crazy. I know that one millionth of an atmosphere is still a billion times greater pressure than you'll get in deep

space

, but for the purposes of testing these materials that effectively equate to 99.999 of being in deep space will be present at that type of pressures in the chamber because what the atmosphere does is act as a huge heat sink, if you are hotter than the surrounding air it cools you down if you are cooler it warms you up it also provides a balance of water vapor so that Let's not dry out and it blocks radiation.

Several infrared wavelengths that come from the Sun cannot pass through our atmosphere and most of the short UV wavelengths are also blocked, so if we are going to simulate the effect of being in orbit, we also have to simulate the effect of the Sol and, in keeping with the idea of ​​high vacuum and low budget, I decided to literally hack a metal halide bulb. Let me show you one way to do it. This is a metal halide bulb. They are slowly being replaced by LEDs due to the higher efficiency of LEDs. They run cooler and last longer, but due to the huge installed infrastructure of hidden and metal halide lighting.

They still make them and they are pretty inexpensive. The way they work is that inside this outer shell is a small envelope usually made of fused quartz or, if you call it, a ceramic blister, aluminum oxide. Inside that envelope is a buffer gas, typically argon and a variety of metals and metallic salts, including Mercury, what happens is that when an arc forms, the gases heat up, the metals evaporate and begin to produce electromagnetic radiation in a variety of discrete emission bands typical of each of the metals that the manufacturer can design according to his choice. of the metals that are added, what kind of overall tone you get from the bulb when you add up the average of all those different emission bands, which is why when you look on the outside of a box for one of these bulbs, I often say 2700k or 5000 Kelvin, that's not the envelope temperature, that's the closest approximation that average of all those individual emission bands has to a real physical object at that thermal temperature like the sun is at 5700 Kelvin, something else you We will see on the outside of the box a symbol that says UB or universal ignition, which means that the bulbs can burn in any type of orientation or the fact that they should normally burn upside down just as they would be in, for example, a lighting fixture. high bait look for the UB or universal burning symbol, it just gives you a little more flexibility now calculating how much energy we need from the light bulb is pretty easy the sun sheds about 1.3 kilowatts on every square meter of area above our atmosphere or 130 milliwatts per square centimeter, the inside of our test chamber is almost exactly three thousand square centimeters, so we need 400 watts, but because the inside of the chamber is reflective, it's made of stainless steel, it's a reflector poor by about 50 percent, butIt means that any part of the light that doesn't hit our samples and hits the wall will re-enter the camera or 50 percent will if it misses again 25 and then twelve six three when you add up all those retro reflections the intensity of the samples is about double what it would be if we took the samples at the same distance from the lamp, but had them in an open space, so we actually need a 200 watt bulb like this.

The interesting thing is that a metal halide bulb has 100 actually efficient, unless it is being heated or cooled, all the current the bulb draws is converted to electromagnetic radiation, only about 16 to 18 percent is in the visible spectrum. , so we say that its luminous efficiency is 16 to 18 percent more. The light part is infrared and ultraviolet, but we're going to want that light because the sun produces that type of light. Now the reason the jacket is protective, obviously this looks pretty delicate on the inside, you don't want to touch it. It's also running at high temperature and high voltage again, you don't want to touch it and if the oils on your skin, the acidity of the oil on your skin gets on that quartz when it reaches temperature, it can devitrify again, you don't want to touch it, but the envelope too It blocks radiation, it blocks the amount of infrared wavelengths and almost all UV rays below 400 nanometers, so we don't get sunburn or skin cancer. or ozone generation, so we have to take off that cover.

Now the first thing you're going to have to do is do it in a controlled way because the inside of some of these bulbs and I don't know which ones are at reduced pressure, they do it to provide some insulation so the inner covering of the quartz envelope will be hot to vaporize the metals because they don't tell you which ones, we should always assume it's in a partial vacuum. So if we hit this with a hammer, it would implode and probably damage the internal structure, so we have to do it in a controlled manner. The first thing is to find an outlet that you can put this in because you're not going to want to.

To do this freehand you want something that you can screw onto a base or something that you can put in a vise and when you put it in the socket don't press it too hard because when it moves when you take off the jacket, it's It's going to be harder to get it out, so you just want to tighten it enough so it doesn't move and make sure you have the right type of plug. These come in different shapes and sizes. There are linear tubes that have electrodes on both. Probably not a good option on a small camera.

I like the screw bases better but even those screw bases come in different sizes, they have what is called a mogul base which is a large screw base usually for higher wattage bulbs and then what they call a size base Medium, which is typical of a normal bulb, this is a medium sized base. Now the first step, as you can see here, is to start putting some tape over here. I like to use duct tape instead of just using electrical tape. because the reinforcing fibers make it a little more robust once you have put a layer of tape on top then stop for a second and mark where you are going to be willing and I will do it also on the other side where you will be willing to cut the bulb so as not to damage the inner structure because once you completely wrap the bulb to protect it you won't be able to see what's inside so you can continue with your alignment. like this and you will know where it is safe to cut it.

The first thing we are going to do is equalize the pressure inside the bulb and we are going to cut at the bottom. The part of the bulb with the glass is thicker so it's less likely to break so we're going to put this here in the vise and then I'm going to put some safety gear on and I like to use a Dremel with a large cut. wheel, it is a good tool to perform this operation, but this will be a little noisy for headphone users, so be prepared one, two, three, oh well, now we have penetrated inside, so we have equalized the pressure, the next thing they're going to do.

What I have to look at is that at the top of these bulbs they have a little dimple and that's used to help hold this electrode that runs up so the thing stays a little sturdier when the you manipulate or move it because This is stuck to the inside, if the glass comes off a little unevenly, it could bend the internal structure, so the next thing we're going to do is free the top and decapitate the bulb. We're going to flip this guy over like this and we're going to start cutting hard again now, once this is released, sometimes it's easy to do the final release with a razor blade to save time, you don't necessarily have to do that.

Do everything with the Dremel tool, but you can do it, it's up to you and now we have freed up the internal part of the bulb. Now the next step will be to cut laterally along here, let's go and now the last step. Are you going to want to cut up to here and it's possible that in this case it was fractured, so I was lucky, but this side wasn't, so we're not going to have to cut. This aside, so I'm going to leave it on just to protect the inside while I cut out this other part of the base.

I have yet to find a bulb whose internal structure is smaller than the neck of the bulb so you can cut around the circle and lift it if you find one, you're lucky, but I haven't seen one yet. One last cut, let's see if we can get this Dremel working. I almost ran out of wheels, but it looks like I got there. Now let's see if we can free this thing from here. You can see it makes a bit of a mess, but it looks pretty good. I should probably use the razor blade, but let's see if I can remove it pretty well.

Now, the last thing you can do. What I want to do is some of these bits are a little bit dangerous, so what I like to do is use the Dremel, we'll see if I can still use the same wheel. Now watch your camera because this will probably spray some debris that is actually pretty. Ok, now I found the best way to store these bulbs. When you're done with this, I'm going to leave this here, literally, just keep them on the base that way, you can put them on a table and if you want, keep them clean, you can even put the box they came in on top to protect them.

Now the next thing I'm going to talk about is the plug. These things come in both ceramic and plastic and a high vacuum, high UV system. to use the ceramic versions on the bottom of the socket I soldered two flexible high voltage wires and then ran them through this rubber plug this is just what SEALS on the side of the camera this way and then one of the problems with multiple Braided wire is nice and flexible, but it is not vacuum tight, even if the jacket is because air can actually be transmitted or transported through the individual fibers in The Wire.

Now soldering, this will solve the problem that it cannot be soldered. above the insulation level now the other problem is if you try to say just put this in a normal plug like this xt90 I have here almost all types of electrical plugs are press fit they are not vacuum tight so yeah you just soldered this here and then tried to somehow or solder it and tried to seal it, you would end up with a lot of adhesive and RTV trying to get this to work, the simplest thing is to just break this up, remove the wires and solder them individually to the ends of the cable and then take a flexible tube, this nice soft 35 hardness silicone rubber tube that I bought from McMaster Carr.

Cut a couple segments of this, put a little Vaseline or vacuum grease on it so it slides and slide them. all set and you got a nice vacuum tight seal and don't forget to mark the polarity of your wires because once you remove the plug you don't have any type of polarity indicator or protection so make sure you mark them so that when you plug this into the receptacle, you won't get a dysfunctional bulb, so that's it, now let me show you what we decided to test abroad, so these are the samples we selected now. I know we'll get a lot of comments from people saying, oh you should have tried it, fill in the blank, put it in the comments section, as I've always said, I read all the comments and if we get some really good suggestions we can always come back to visit this because we have the configuration as we have it.

We'll revisit the cloud chamber or our radiation detector when we test some tobacco products. I think you're going to like it. This is what I chose. I wanted some latex rubber, so I picked out a rubber balloon and some rubber bands. I also chose a piece of polyester film or aluminized mylar. We'll see if the aluminum has any kind of protective value. This is a four thousand. I can show it to you here. I'll just move it a little. A piece of four thousand polyethylene film. It's the same thing. They build balloons. At high altitudes they are

exposed

to a good amount of UV light, although at a lower temperature I also have a piece of parsley a slice of potato I also have three pieces of wood: white oak plywood and pine or leather.

I have a piece of pork and a piece of meat and despite asking very nicely no one was willing to donate skin so last night my son made chicken curry and I took some skin and put it here to double the effect on human skin and then I also included an old cell phone that works perfectly fine and we're going to see if it's immune to vacuum in the UV rays or if it just stops or explodes, we'll find out what happens so let's switch. this guy and go ahead and put this guy here and then we're going to go to the camera now.

Oh, and another thing I didn't mention, these are duplicates of everything I'm using here, so we have a handle. of what happens with these things outside the vacuum chamber now, before I slide this in, let me show you something inside the chamber, you can see a light bulb setup which is pretty self explanatory. I also have this piece of aluminum plate that I put here, on top of the rubber plug that connects the gauge just to protect it from the high intensity UV light inside the chamber, so we'll go ahead and turn the gauge on, get this going, and then I'm going to slide this carefully like this.

Now I have this aluminum ring I designed with some press fit tabs. I'm going to put this here like this and this has nothing to do with sealing the inside of the chamber. This provides some light protection or UV protection for the gasket so it doesn't dry out or damage the rubber. Now what's holding this top or plate is air pressure, so I'm going to turn on the vacuum pump. it's going to be a little bit noisy and then I have to hold this relatively carefully, thank you and we'll place this here like this, I'll try to center it reasonably well like this and then I'll open the valve and turn on the vacuum.

Now the pressure will hold this for 5 to 10 seconds or so, then I can release it well now immediately. I want to start putting in some liquid nitrogen because you don't want to leave the liquid nitrogen in the door bottle before I seal this because all it will end up doing is capturing water vapor, carbon dioxide and oxygen from the air, filling the trap of cold. We also want to get this in place as soon as possible to protect our vacuum pumps from the effect of anything. The samples will release it, so I'll pour this in now.

Many people are nervous about using liquid nitrogen. They think it is dangerous or exotic. Actually, it is not. It has some potential to be dangerous if you have a large amount. amount and you spill it on the floor in a very sealed room, it could displace the oxygen in the room, but you need a lot and you need a fairly small room. The other thing is that it has cryogenic properties, it's cold, so the point is, you can freeze, but it's not as bad as you might think. That's called the Charged Frost effect because my skin is incredibly hot compared to the temperature of liquid nitrogen.

As soon as liquid nitrogen gets close to my skin, it vaporizes and forms a layer of nitrogen gas that insulates me from the liquid, so you don't want to keep your finger in it too long because as your finger cools, that layer becomes getting thinner and thinner and eventually you will freeze, but you have to put in a little bit of effort, yeah, we'll keep adding it now. If you look at the pressure gauge down here, you'll see the number 1100, which is 1100 microns or 1.1 millimeters, and it will continue to go down as the pump is doing its job. and the cold trap is doing its thing and the other thing about liquid nitrogen that's kind of interesting is that a lot of people don't realize that it's really cheap, this stuff is less than a dollar a liter and it actually has more capacity of cooling per dollar than dry. ice, very good stuff, okay, put the cap on this and now we're just going to have to wait a little bit because I need to get this pressure to the bottom using just the cold trap and the mechanical pump before I turn on the diffusion. bomb, so let's give it five or ten minutes, okay, 290 microns, that's whereIt seems to settle, so I'm going to add the diffusion pump now to see if we can get some extra vacuum and pumping, but I'm not fancy. that we're going to go down to a micron with all those contaminants in the system, high vacuum and meat products generally don't go together, so we're going to open the chiller, the water flows up and then I'm going to plug in the diffusion pump, this it will take about 12 minutes to warm up to the point where it can contribute to the pumping action so while that's happening let's go ahead and turn on the lights or lamp now if you look inside the chamber when I do this you'll see some bright flashes ie the metal starts to evaporate and it will stabilize in about a minute or so and then we'll get continuous output and then I'll also turn on the fans here.

The reason for the fans is that I don't want to create an oven. We're pouring 200 watts into this chamber and all I really want to do is test the effect of the lamp's radiation on samples which I don't want to try. I cook them in a generally warm environment when I keep the fan on the outside of this chamber, it never goes up to even body temperature. Now the plan is we're going to run this for 24 hours straight, which means every two hours I'm going to have to go out and I'm going to have to top up the liquid nitrogen, so it's going to be a long night, but there's coffee and beer. and I won't be alone.

Let me show you something we picked up. These guys, I don't know, 10 days ago, 11 days ago, they were added to our coop and they're eating, drinking, pooping and growing like crazy and they're really cute, so well, see you tomorrow for the first eight hours, everything worked without problems and then around four in the morning I noticed that the cold trap was filling with condensate. I really had no option other than to introduce air into the system is to lower the lid onto the table, drain the condensate, and reapply the vacuum. at a slower rate as the vacuum continues to improve until the end of the testing period.

Well, it's been 24 hours and I'm exhausted. It was a long night and the chickens didn't really appreciate me coming in and out after midnight. but one of the things I wanted to mention to you is that if you look inward, things seem to have changed a little bit and you will also see that in the time lapse the reason was that you remember the warning I gave you about how you use a cold trap and the amount of condensate turned out to be a lot more water vapor and what came out of the cell phone than I expected and it actually filled our cold trap, so around four o'clock in the morning I had to come back here and drain the cold trap and set everything back up and that changed things a little bit with that move, but it only took me about five minutes or so to turn the vacuum pump back on and as you can see we've been running around 50 microns for the last eight and nine hours, so it is not reduced to one micron that the empty container was able to maintain.

Obviously the samples still release some material, but it's a pretty low pressure. Now before I air wash this to get the samples out, I have to cool things down. I have to cool down the light and the diffusion pump before I blow cold air through them so as not to damage them, so let's turn off the diffusion pump, give it a few minutes to cool, turn off the light and give it a few minutes to cool and then we'll take a look at the samples, okay this is nice and cool, the fusion pump is nice and cool, you can see the pressure went up a little bit, it's like wiggling 290 300 310 something like that turning off the pump hurts the pressure Turning off the light helps the pressure because we are evaporating less material from the samples so to get this out I'm going to turn off the pump and then I'm going to use my fancy purge valve and you'll see the pressure on the gauge start to rise as I start filtering. air over here and eventually I'll have to catch it. the top, that's okay, let's take this off, let's take a look at how the shadow protected the joint that looks pretty good this works, it may not have been necessary but it definitely didn't hurt.

Wow, okay, that looks really fun and it also smells a little bit doesn't smell very good, let's see if we can get this out of here, actually, the piece of polyester film or the polyethylene moved there. Wow, okay, let's take a look at this. These are the controls and the wood is not actually visible. very different, maybe there is a slight change in color, but it's actually quite difficult to detect that the oak is definitely darkened or not, maybe it was just the other surface, the oak looks more or less the same and the plywood that It definitely got dark, what does it feel like?

Oh, it's so much lighter if it feels like Styrofoam. I wonder what the surface will be like. Does it change it at all? It hasn't changed except it's gotten incredibly light, it feels like an arrow gel, that's amazing, yeah, I wish I'd brought a scale here to show you, but wow, you can definitely feel the difference, it's much, much lighter, yeah , they are all very, very light. I suppose you could build a spaceship out of oak or pine or even plywood. It could last a bit, as long as you don't spend too much time in orbit, now the parsley, that's fine. so your vegetables in space are going to need some light.

Protect now the metal coated polyester or mylar film that curled up probably due to the shrinkage of the plastic versus the metal, but it looks pretty strong, feels pretty good. the control right here, you know, other than the curling, it looks reflective, it doesn't have any kind of burn marks or anything, let's look at the latex, here's the elastic band, now it still stretches, yeah, well, maybe not , no, definitely, definitely. we dry the rubber, this is a lot harder, uh, yeah, you can feel it, so it's a little bit weaker, how about the balloon you're backing up, yeah, right?

I've got my face close to it and you're backing away, yeah right. Brave soul, okay, okay, so the balloon is fine, the potato gasps looks like a mushroom cap, wow, this was a potato, okay, I have to do it right, I have to do it, it actually tastes like a little overdone French fry. and a little burnt. It's not very good now, oh light, this is the pork, yes, this is the old pork or the untreated pork, no, that's no good, you don't want to do that, here's the

beef

In the same way, it is kind of kind. oh oh oh I can smell it oh it's like eating toilet paper oh used toilet paper no no no the chicken skin is not going to be eaten oh wow yes you definitely want a space suit, that's why they spend a million dollars on a space suit and if you want to call home you're going to need a special kind of phone look what happened to this split thing let's see if I can get rid of this thing as best I can oh the screen comes up first you might want to move the camera a little bit towards back in case something flies out when I do it, it looks like the battery is really swollen, it looks like that's what caused the foam to swell was the battery pack, yes it's crunchy inside and it's still pretty hot and You know what I think I'm going to do before I continue.

I think I might want to put this outside, wait a second, so let me. throw that out just for safety oh that meat is still in my mouth oh man what I do for science, then the rest of the phone, well I wouldn't expect to see much change, maybe if there were electrolytic capacitors or surface mount. capacitors, you might be able to see some swelling or some drying, but no, it's really the battery that is the real problem with this, this could work and I think the damage to the screen was mostly related to whatever was given to it . powered off by that battery, it's kind of interesting, it's definitely not a way to prepare food, maybe potatoes, and it's definitely something to keep in mind because when you go to space, the lack of atmosphere can affect several things to common materials . don't even think about not only deteriorating the surfaces but for example lubricating oils, any type of solvent especially like lubricants around bearings, axles and motors, all of them could potentially dry out or evaporate, we are only talking about 24 hours If you wish. a satellite that will be able to activate something after a year, you have to take into account the possible evaporation of all the solvents and blocking, so why do you have to spend a lot of money when you go to space, not just for rocket engines , but because of the materials and the technology that will be placed there, it is quite interesting and, as I said before, if you have other suggestions for things we could try that you would like us to put in the Chamber put them in the comments section.

I read all of them and I really appreciate it because they are also interesting comments and if you like the type of things that we are doing here and the type of things that we are going to do. In the future I really appreciate it if you take just a second or two and reward us with a subscription. It's really nice to see that people appreciate it and come back to it from time to time, but it also helps us with the algorithms YouTube will distribute our videos, which will allow us to grow and allow us to afford the kind of things that we show you every time we produce a video.

Thank you for taking your time. Thanks for watching, stay safe, have fun and I'll see you around. soon