Holley EFI for Beginners -Where to Start! // Sniper, Terminator X, HP/ Dominator

So you've just purchased and installed your new Holley EFI system. I'm a big game store. You open the software getting ready to get

start

ed and are completely overwhelmed by the amount of tuning possibilities in this video. It does not matter if. you have a

sniper

terminator

x or hp

dominator

. I'm going to explain the basics and how to get

start

ed. Hopefully this gives you a good starting point so you at least know what the basics are and how to find them. What you are looking for is a base file that was created by the wizard. Ironically, this car actually paid a thousand dollars for this tune and again, all it is is a wizard tune, so make sure that doesn't happen.

For you, step number one, but assuming you've done the same thing, you have a file open. The first place I would recommend starting would be here in the ICF system, so once you are in the ICF system the ECU configuration will continue. To be the first thing you need to start with, simply choose which ECU you have below. We have engine parameters. The motor displacement here is probably one of the largest and I've done a whole video on all of these different types of load sensing. so if you are too lazy to see that just use the base ve then here for fuel type we can use petrol or e85 in this particular ecu this does not change the fuel supply at all all it does is change the scales you are looking at, I use gasoline for everything, the only time I change gasoline is with methanol, which can only be done with hps and the

dominator

s below we have our type of injection in most cases, unless be a

sniper

it will be multiport the sniper should be tbi and the actual pressure of our system this is important this is your actual fuel pressure so if you have a fuel pressure sensor or a fuel pressure gauge , whatever number you see, is what you will enter here and probably the next largest.

The most important thing will be to choose your fuel injectors. Just click on this drop-down list so you can see there are a thousand variables. If your injectors are not on this list just go to custom and then you will enter the flow rate for your injector at what fuel pressure, so if you have 80 lb injectors and they flow 80 lb at 43 psi, that's all the data for, then I would use 43 right here, 43 and 58 seem to be the two most common, but most of the time they are usually rated 43. When you choose a dropdown, all of this is populated for you and again, if you go to the custom, you will be responsible for entering your injector dead times here, which is a big mistake about that.

To adjust this value, the injector manufacturer will not give you this information. This is also done without battery voltage, so if we look down we will know that between 11 and 14 is what most 12 volt systems will run. The table looks a little intimidating because there are a lot of values, you're really only operating in this range here, but once you have the system pressure, flow rate, and injector dead times you should be pretty good to go. On that, the next thing you want to get to is your ignition parameters again, there's a big drop down menu and whatever ignition system you're using you need to choose that here, generally speaking if you get it wrong the car won't start again.

There's not a lot of settings here, this will just be a drop down menu for what you're using and then your firing order here is obviously very important, which is usually populated based on what you're using here, but just double check and make sure that the firing order is correct and no one is really using knock sensors on these things, so you pretty much ignore that now once you get your car running, especially if you're using something with adjustable ignition, you're going to have to time the firing timing. switched on. and to do that you're going to go here to this drop down menu right here and click on enable static sync check, that's

where

you're going to use the timing light and sync the ecu to the dealer.

Another thing in this menu that will have What to do is this automatic tps configuration, so keep in mind

where

these two things are next while we are in the system parameters in this closed loop and learn the default configurations as you can see here, fifty percent on both, that's a hundred percent correction if so. Even half of that is far away in fueling and you should probably stop and find out why everything is so bad. I always recommend that you take these numbers and lower them significantly, whether you want to make that 10 20, you know the choice is up to you, but basically with these two things at 100 percent, if your oxygen sensor goes out, the car won't. will work, it will try to add 100 extra fuel, so you know, like I say, 10 20 somewhere, it's pretty reasonable. between the two, it will give you a 20 to 40 correction and again, if you're that far off, there are other issues you should probably start addressing and the next thing you'll probably want to do after going through the system. icf will be your sensors, the map sensor here is one of the most important sensors in the car.

You have to correct it. There are a thousand drop-down options and then there's also a custom map here so you can put whatever you want. sensor you want there you just need the calibration data from the manufacturer another tip if you are using an internal bar or a

holley

bar or any of these one bar drop downs it won't let you do anything with a boost control so make sure make sure you have two or three bars selected or whatever sensor you are using that is not a single bar, then also make sure the coolant temperature sensor and manifold air temperature sensors are correct, they are used a lot There are a lot of things different in the fuel calculations, so you must correct them again.

It has drop down menus and then the customization option. GM sensors are certainly the most common if you are using oil pressure or fuel pressure sensors you can configure them. Here they are also not needed to run the engine and are not used for any of the fuel calculations, so you can skip them and come back to them if you need the next thing you probably want. what you need to do is set your idle speed you can't really start adjusting your fuel or anything like that until the car is idling this is your idle spark so if you have 20 degrees on your ignition chart and He sees that time is jumping everywhere. and you can't understand why this is the reason, so if you don't want this on, obviously disable it; otherwise you can play with these numbers to adjust how fast, how slow, how much adjustment there is now if you want to cycle through it.

As to what all these settings and tables do and how to configure all of this, I'll leave a link in the description. You can also go to the website. Tune in to trilogy.com. We'll have a full tutorial that walks you through a z on all the different systems, I'm really excited about that so check it out if you're looking for a more detailed overview of all of this, the next thing you want to do is make sure you have the right type inactivity control. The valve selected is usually the GM ls and the Ford, which are the two most common.

I see driving by wire is a little bit of a different animal and then you have the slow, medium and fast custom, if you want to start setting up your own. The pid values ​​probably aren't what you're looking for if you're watching this video, here's all our other idle control stuff, but the most important thing to do is choose your idle speed, you need to be realistic with yourself on this. Also, if you have a Stage 612 cam, it probably won't idle at 312 rpm, so put a reasonable value here, it's much easier to get the car running at the highest idle and then progressively lower it and figure out where it is. starts to feel unhappy and then our ic parked here, this is basically the amount of airflow that the idle control valve will allow while the engine is cranking, so it's like the equivalent of keeping your foot on the accelerator, like this that this is a pretty important table here next you have your spark plug here is your ignition again this is something that someone paid a thousand dollars for the simple and the second are the two types that you have you just paid a lot of money for an advanced system of management use 2d and this will give you access to the entire table here, if you want to see it graphically you can go to the base sync graph.

The starting stuff usually doesn't work, almost nothing will work here if you want to adjust the rev limiter it's right here. this is the knock control again, no one uses it, in my opinion, it's not really set up in a very user friendly way and these two here are your timing offsets of the coolant temperature and the air temperature. You can see that the default values ​​are scaled really strangely. I don't necessarily remember a car running at a thousand degrees Fahrenheit, so at least make sure you don't have stupid values ​​here. I've seen files where guys will tell you that you know negative 60 degrees on this board and I'm wondering why the car wants to turn them off all of a sudden, so keep in mind that this is your input and output tab and it's self explanatory as far as to what you're setting up it can be a bit complicated so that's a video for a different day so again keep in mind where the inputs are if you have for example a sensor that you want to read the ecu and then a output says you have something you want the ecu to turn on, like a radiator fan would be an output and a dome pressure sensor would be an input.

The automatic transmission is under this tab here again. This is a little complex and it's a different video for a different day, but that's where it is if you need it and if you want to add it. boost control, you can add the toolbox to the individual settings, boost the default boost, now you have a boost control icon so you have all your different settings when it comes to that, and again distract you here, let's just go to the basics, I really like that. Holly put the icf fuel all the way to the left because that's the one you spend the most time on so it's easier to know it's always here, so if we click on that, this is our base fuel table and you can see it .

This is not very happy with the map sensor selection that we have when you have these white cells like this, which means that you are left without a fuel injector, so let's change that real quick like I was saying before, since we have the turbo icf added ,uh. We no longer have the option for a single bar sensor, so if you want to delete an icf, go to the toolbox to delete the individual configuration. In this case, we'll boost and go back to our sensor map and an internal bar is what's set up. above and now you can see it looks a little bit better so just like the ignition map if you want to see it graphically just click on the fuel graph you can see it like this this is the big one right here the chart Learning.

You can see that again this thousand dollar tune has a 20 percent fuel correction up here, it's pretty reasonable here in the middle and then it's a little bit negative down here, but if you assume that this system is self-adjusting and you can just fill out this learning table and then just apply it to the field table and that will be all you need to do. I apologize, that's not really the way this works. If it were that easy, then me and none of the other millions. people who do this for a living would have jobs. This can be a very useful and very beneficial tool when used correctly, but there is a lot more to tuning than just hitting the transfer to learn base and that's it, so next we have our target air to fuel ratio. table again, this thousand dollar tune only has three values, so I suggest you go to table 2d.

The other thing to keep in mind here is that the lower the number, the richer the air-fuel ratio, the higher the number, the leaner it will be. You probably see one in ten cars that seem to come with those numbers backwards, they aim for 11-0 at idle and cruise and then they aim for 16-5 at full throttle, so make sure you have the correct orientation of the numbers on this table, unless you want to buy an engine, next we have our throttle enrichment, this works in conjunction with the main fuel table. You really need to properly adjust the main fuel table first and then you can go and adjust the throttle enrichment.

I have done another. video about acceleration enrichment, I will give you a better walkthrough, just keep in mind that with the learning table, when the acceleration enrichment is active, the field table, the learning table is not whenIt has quick throttle changes and things of that nature. learning is not going to work, it's not going to pick it up in the table and you really need to adjust all of that manually once it's done, so you can do the acceleration enrichment and then we have the temperature enrichment, this is your warm up. up as you can see we have the coolant temperature down here and then this is the amount of fuel that will be added when you see this percentage that means 100 percent is the equivalent of zero so in this case we would be adding five percent fuel. we would add 50 fuel here and then we have an air fuel ratio offset, so this will change our target air fuel ratio based on the coolant temperature which you can see in this file here, once we get to 120 , it will only use the target air. fuel ratio table, we will no longer use this and then we have an air temperature enrichment which is more for a similar air density, since the air is denser, more fuel is needed and since it is less dense, it does not it is needed so much. so much so that this table is not as impactful as the coolant based tables and then we have our initial enrichment, so all of these are labeled as pretty self explanatory, we have starting fuel, this is how much fuel you have, the real key It is active after waiting, you don't have to complicate it too much and then after starting enrichment, this is basically the amount of fuel after leaving. the starting fuel will go into this and then stay active for this amount of time based on the coolant temperature, here's how that all works below, if you want to tune your car you need to know. how to log data and start and stop data logs, actually you click on this icon which looks like a clipboard and once you want to see the data log after saving it, go here to open the data log and the second type will appear tab and now you have all your data log information, you can zoom in and out using all of these things up here.

Usually I'll just zoom in by dragging the mouse like this and wherever I click on the chart all of this information will update. here if you click on this e you will get all the different views that you can edit and then from here you just drag and drop if you don't want something you can bring it this way and if you want you can bring it that way, Click OK, it will ask you if you want to save it. I almost always press Yes and then if you want to click through the different views, you can do it this way.

Now you can change the scale by simply clicking on any one. This is the element that you can see here, we have a scale of 9000 rpm which brings our graph to about here, so if we change this to 7 000. You can see it appears here, another one with tps, you see, guys will have 100 and then It goes right to the top and is very hard to see, so I usually go a little further away so you can see where your line is. Another thing you can do here is just drag this to the top. Well, let me give you a lot more information.

I tend to look at it like this most of the time and if you want to get a little more sophisticated, there's a compare function here. You can open different panels. Look, we have a split screen. Again, I prefer to keep everything in one for the most part. Two more things you can do with data logging. In fact, we'll go back to the tuning software and you'll see if we go in here to On the fuel map you can see we have this yellow ball, so if we bring it down here, you can see how our ball moves here, so it basically shows you where you're in the data log in the fuel table, which is really useful if you go to the data log activation overlay, you can see this green line that actually gives us a visual representation of all the cells that we went through during that data log, so you can see here, it looks like we went full throttle right here, we did a pull. and then when we let off the throttle it went down like this and then to turn it off just go remove the overlay it's a very useful tool and I guess last but not least I tend not to use this but if Click on this, these indicators will appear and you can configure them as you want.

I find it annoying to use them because when you click on something it just minimizes and then you have to go look for it, so whenever I'm tuning I tend to follow Whatever I'm looking for here, I find it a lot easier to use because of new, when I do this I usually make tons of changes and all these different tables so every time I click on something and then this gauge panel minimizes, not for me anyway, hope that was a quick introduction to what is what and what is where within the system. I have a playlist on my channel simply called

holley

efi tutorials, if you click on that there are all kinds. of tutorials on a lot of the different things here that will be useful for this video, as always, I appreciate you watching and I'll see you next time.