How to pre slope a shower pan on slab - Using Dry Pack Mortar

Hey guys, if you don't want your

shower

to look like this just after a few months of use, you might want to watch this video. It is a very common problem that many homeowners have to deal with and it is caused by two things: Number one, no pre-sloping under the rubber lining has been done or number two, we Pooles are clogged around from the drain, so those are two main causes that would cause stains in your

shower

like this, so if you look at this In the video you will learn how to avoid it and how to do it right.

What pre-

slope

does: It basically levels the area around the shower walls and provides a gradual

slope

toward the drain. It is waterproof and adhered. It's okay, guys, as long as you work with it. a new area, the first thing you want to know is what you are dealing with, you want to take the 4ot level and just lay it around the shower floor so you know how level that area is. Typically, concrete floors are going to be a lot. better than plywood floor which is sometimes uneven by a quarter to a half inch or even an inch.

In another video, I showed you how to install the shower drain and today we're going to build a pre-slope around it. It is a typical pre-slope that is usually built on a concrete or plywood subfloor to bond the concrete with the motor. I use a thin layer of modified thin

mortar

, this prevents the concrete from absorbing water and creates a very strong bond between the wooden floor and the engine. pre-slope, especially around the drain where it gets pretty thin before you start First, we're going to talk about the right tools for this project, even if you don't have a lot of experience with the right tools, your work will look better and you won't have to put in the effort. so much to distribute the game.

I'll use a 4 to 3 inch stroke. I also have two different tours that run on the motor. They are quite special because they are thick and rounded. two different sizes, one is Stander and the other is a few centimeters shorter. Well, I have to cut it from both sides because you can't really buy it, but it makes your life a lot easier when you build shower platforms and pre-slopes like That's for sure, one thing is don't use that quinate run to build the pre-op because I have seen other contractors recommending it. What basically happens is that the ride is too flat for that purpose and is quite sharp when you are working. with it so you can end up cutting a siding without even realizing it all.

I use that 6 inch run to spread that tet over the fiberglass mesh and that L to clean the tin kit or hub motor, another very useful tool you can use. When building your shower panel, the prerequisite is to have a set of straight edge rules. Basically, they will show you how flat your surface is. For that purpose you don't need anything fancy, you can just buy a straight 4ot. rulers from Home Depot and simply cut them to the desired length. The most common ones I use are 18 24 32 42 and 48. Whenever you build a shower pan or pre-slope you will use a few different sized levels. of them you want to have the longest one, you want it to be an inch shorter than the length of your shower, the second you want to have it at least an inch shorter than the width of your shower and then the standard two feet just to check the slopes and levels that You also need some tools to mix the engine, but it depends on the way you decide to mix it.

I have a whole video dedicated to how to mix motor in buckets

using

the concrete mixer, so first we'll cover the entire shower floor with For a quarter inch thin layer on the average size pre-slope, you'll need at least two bags of motor, so make sure you mix it before you start spreading the thin layer on the shower floor because that could dry faster. Than you think, as you can see, this is a dry mix and it's pretty easy to spread around the base of the shower, so when you work with it you shouldn't have any water on the surface.

First you must spread the even layer. around the shower walls because that will be your starting point to have proper slope, you should have an A4 slope of one inch per foot on the shower pre-slope or shower plume, in this case the drain is located approximately 1 inch above the shower floor. and the far wall is 24 inches away to have enough slope so the previous slopes are at least 34 to 1 inch thick around the shower walls, so you will start working on the longest wall first, so set the thickness and start leveling that area once you have the perfect level between two walls you can continue around the base of the shower meaning it will transfer that level from one wall to another until we get the perfect level around the base of the shower and then from there you can build a gradual slope towards the shower drain and this is the time where rulers of different sizes come in very handy - they will show you all the high and low points on the previous slope and around the shower walls, especially are important when you are smoothing the surface towards the drain.

You can use the shorter one to eliminate any high spots and if you have to build up an area, just sprinkle a little bit of that motor on the surface and then smooth it out with the Trel, yeah. Continue doing this until you get a gentle, gradual slope toward the drain to make the motor even stronger. You can simply take the course and then gently tap the entire surface of the previous slope, this will increase the density of the motor and make the PR slope much stronger and this is one of the last steps before covering the entire PR slope with a large piece of fiberglass mesh and then cover it with a thin layer of fine set.

You can buy this fiberglass mesh at any stacco. Store supplies come in different colors, lengths and thicknesses. I will try to have the links to all the tools and supplies used during the projects in the description below. This step is not necessary but it will strengthen the entire previous slope that is the base of the entire shower, well guys my goal was always to build the project a little better and over the years I got to this point that some might consider as excessive, but what I am going to show you I have not failed yet, yes.

As I mentioned above, I use a 6-inch drywall Trel to spread the assembly on top of the mesh. You want to get a very thin cod, so you want to blend your T-set very thin. They will add a little more water than you will. I would use uh to install the tiles that will help you spread it out a little bit easier and you just want to cover everything with a thin layer and then you can take the sponge and basically run it over the entire surface just to smooth it out. As a last step, you just want to place the second piece of a drain over the existing drain just to make sure the concrete doesn't go over the area where it sits well.

The last step to prepare our pre-slope is to basically waterproof everything, so we have everything nice and smooth, so you can take the 4 inch brush and the Aqua Defense waterproof membrane that is made by Mape and basically cover the entire floor. You want to get a nice, thick, solid layer across the entire floor. You may have to redo it sometimes, that waterproof membrane will shrink and when it dries you may have to apply another coat to make sure it is 100% waterproof. Additional waterproofing under the shower boom liner will protect it in the event of failure. in the future or something will happen to it, so have another layer of waterproofing that slopes and joins the drain and also works as an anti-fracture membrane, so it basically limits the movement of the floor that is transferred to the shower pan, so it can potentially prevent it from cracking.

The future and main function of the pre-slow basically provides the slowness for the rubber liner of the pen and prevents water from collecting in it, so if you learn something new, please like the video or leave the comments if you have any questions and subscribe to my channel because I will upload many more videos about baths and showers in the future thanks and bye