The BEST Beginner's Guide to Paint Your Car with NO Paint Booth!

welcome back to another episode of Paint Society, the channel where the learning doesn't stop when the video ends today. In this episode we'll go over the complete

paint

job

guide

on how to

paint

your

car without a paint

booth

, probably just on

your

own. your home garage or your shed, we'll go over all the procedures, everything you'll need to know to get a clean job, starting with how to sand everything, how to clean everything, some of the things you need. to know how to prepare the area and which one you are going to paint on to get the cleanest paint job possible.

Then we will also go over different techniques for spring. We'll talk about how we're going to mask the car. I even go into detail about the paint we're using and how to apply that paint as it relates to the base coat and clear coat so you can optimize your finish in your own home garage and we'll show you the results at the end. I think you might enjoy this one, so while you prepare your project for final sanding, here are some things you need to know first about the vehicle. Here's a Civic hatchback and while we're working on it with the Vision body, what's up guys? and this is actually the boosted car for kids, so we're going to walk you through some of the steps that we're going to take to get it ready.

Now it's not 100% necessary, but we will use the dust extraction system and there are a few different dust extraction systems on the market that you can use and the reason we use them is because we are going to paint in the exact same garage, so any chance we have to limit the amount of dust and place it. here and not in the air will be of great help to us, but if you don't want to spend money on dust extraction that's perfectly fine, what you can do is just use wet sanding as a method to help you really conserve that dust. down and you can just wipe it off when you're done and we're ready to sand the car.

Now we're going to use a P400 grit which is Kovacs papers, it's a super attack disc, it's a Max film and this is real. The paper has holes. Now I'll link everything in the description, so if you don't have a sander with dust extraction, you can get the sandpaper that doesn't have holes in it. Now we'll also use an interfacing pad and an interfacing pad goes with the actual sandpaper and provides a little bit of cushioning so as we're sanding we can go around the different contours of different areas that might need it and then basically that pad will match up with these holes here and then you have your actual dust extraction and for the final sand we are going to use a dry

guide

coat now you can get this in a dry guide coat which is like a powder or you can get this in a spray form and basically everything what we're going to do is run it over our primer areas and once we remove it with a sander we'll know this area is good to paint now if you're using a solid color then you can sand it down to 600 grit if you're not sealing a sealer, it's just a diluted primer, that's all it doesn't sand, but if you're in your home garage and you're not really familiar with painting a lot and this is your first project.

I would suggest not sealing it and just leaving it up to 600 if it's solid and if it's metal, sanding it up to 800. We're going to seal it, so we're going to sand. this with 400 let's go ahead and sand this all down. I can adapt a lot more to painting thanks foreigner thanks well we just finished being in the car and we used seven pieces of paper now if you used a 320 you could still use less but what really matters is that the paper does the job and once it's done you change it, don't keep using the same paper or it will basically be worthless and as we pull the top part out of the dust extractor you can see all the dust that would have been in the workshop, you can see that It's red and gray and all of that would have been on the real tables, maybe inside the car, so you know you don't 100 need it, but over time it will pay for itself, so let's say you don't have money for dust extraction or you never plan on painting again, you can use a block and water and what that will do is instead of having dust everywhere. the water will contain it now.

I'm a little dirty on the floor, so you'll have to wash everything, but this is a good way to make a mile of sand and keep the dust off the floor well. land and not in the air and basically all you're going to do is put a little bit of water in, it doesn't need to be ocean, just a little bit of water and what the water does is it lubricates the sandpaper and it also helps it bind. Dust it off and get it on the floor, so basically all you have to do is rinse it off.

Now you can also use a spray bottle or you can use a sponge and hold the sponge full of water next to you and just squeeze. a little bit or you can even have a bucket on the ground, there is no right or wrong way to do it as long as the water gets to the panel and then the sandpaper is lubricated. Now one thing you will find is that if you are using water, your sandpaper will last a little longer because it won't clog as much, so this is definitely an option that you may consider strange.

What you do want to remember is if you are using a 400 by hand on a block well, it will be very different than if you were using it in the interface like we did before, that's because when you use it by hand, you wouldn't believe it, but It's a more aggressive scratch because you have that direct contact with the surface, so I don't want you guys to delve into it. I just want them to glide over the surface and knock it down and make it smooth if you're worried about being too aggressive if you're using 400 with the sanding machine and the interface pad.

Maybe you use 600 by hand and then you can always reduce it, but you can surely do it both ways and get exactly the same result. Just take a good look at it now. the car is completely sanded, we're going to hit those little edges that the center just couldn't reach, for that we'll use a k600 grit now it's a higher grit, remember what we said about hand sanding, you'll always want to try that. to step it up a little bit just because you don't want to be too aggressive with it and we're using a hand pad and that's going to help adjust to those edges and now what we can do is get into all of those edges now there's different ways to do this you can use a scratch pad, but I prefer to use this little hand pad because it's easier to use and the paper doesn't really clog up too much so it's nice to have all these edges because you don't want the paint job to peel off and remember that the sander didn't really go into this area so let's go ahead and get this area because everywhere needs to be completely sanded and don't forget about the door handles inside the space here, this will be the first place where any peeling will occur. type of paint when there is contact with two surfaces together.

Now you're not going to sand the inside of the door jamb because we're going to tape it right above it. all the way to the edge and we'll show you that later also on the edges Adam is going to go ahead and touch on any of those areas that once again in the center he just didn't get to and you can see the real sand sanding is going to be pretty much Sprinkle the primer and you want make it nice and smooth. A lot of guys think you can apply primer and paint over it. No, you have to wait at least 24 hours to sand it well and smooth another area around the window.

The edge is very important because these will be common areas that are going to be stripped at this point we are ready to wash the vehicle and prepare it for the tape work so the entire vehicle is completely sanded. Now is the time to prepare your vehicle for masking and painting and prepare its surroundings for a paint job. Now that we've got the car out, we're going to blow out all the dust and contaminants through the fans and that way we can get it out of here faster now. Probably more important than anything else is to clean your surroundings, why rush into doing something that can really affect your paint job, so if you think you've blown enough, go ahead and blow it one more time and wipe down all the counters because the dust there is. on your walls, your floor feels like it's also on your paint job and we're going to go ahead and wash all of this off.

Now we'll use some purple Power and a brown scuff pad to wash the car. It's really going to get all the dust out and all the dust from the scratches that way it's completely illuminated from the car it's not just sitting on top and we don't smear it or wipe it all over so basically we'll just give it is a good spray and then we'll wet it down and get this whole car completely clean thank you foreigner thank you thank you foreigner we'll be back here the next morning now there are some things you can do it's very easy to get in the driver's seat for a better paint job and well that has to do with when you are going to do your painting job if you plan to do it at night well that's when the bugs come out and well sometimes they can land right on your spray job, but I would recommend the morning hours between 8 and 11. that's when it's a little colder, less humid and that's exactly what we're doing here, it's around eight o'clock when we start cleaning. lower the car and spray and it's as simple as the things for you in your garage at home that will make the biggest difference.

Now we are ready to clean the car. I prefer to use Sprayway glass cleaner, it's very cheap and it's I'm going to leave a streak free finish, I'll make sure it removes any contamination from oils from your fingers or something, so there are two different types of cleaners, we'll start with this one and a microfiber towel. I like microfiber because it really picks up everything from the surface and doesn't leave lint behind. You may not think about it, but it is very important that when you go to clean the panel cleaner you want to do your

best

job by simply scrubbing it. with one pass you don't want to go over it because that will really disturb the contaminants and stain them, but we want to do our

best

job just cleaning them off and it's the simple things like this that really make the biggest difference when it comes to fish eyes or any type of contamination, just by cleaning in One Direction we will reach the ceiling and the good thing about this Sprayway glass cleaner is that it foams and you will be able to notice it if there is a The worrying thing is that a puddle will form around that area, so you may want to go over it once or twice, but for the most part, since we sprayed this car with the oiler and you kind of understand the progression here, we've been cleaning it.

Since we were done with the sanding and cleaning, cleaning, cleaning is the name of the game to get that beautiful paint job, so if you have an area like I was talking about with those kind of puddles, just go back over it and do I'm sure everything's okay, okay, we just finished with the last panel. Now I prefer to use the Sprayway glass cleaner first because it takes a little longer to dry. Now we will use a separate process for Clean as well, there are two different types of cleaners that you will need to use and well they have two different purposes so let's talk about that right now, sometimes it can be a little confusing but let's clear things up real quick .

Then we used our Sprayway glass cleaner. Now they do two different things. This will remove contaminants from your fingers. Let's say you went out to lunch and had greasy fried chicken or something and you touched the surface of the vehicle well. Basically this. will remove it and then let's say you were working on the car up to this point with, let's say, oils and greases that are automotive based, well, this is a type of wax and grease remover that will remove it. Don't do it and this won't remove any kind of fingerprints or anything like that, so it's very important to use both and it's more important to wear gloves while you're doing it and when you get to the prep, make sure you're using a separate microfiber, you don't want use the exact same one that we use with the glass cleaner now, when you apply this wax and grease remover, you just don't apply it and wipe it, you apply it and we flood it and what it does is it floats all the contaminants to the surface, So give it a moment to do its job and once it floats all the contaminants to the surface, we'll clean it in exactly the same way. across and this will go on and remove contaminants from the surface itself so it will move to the side if you don't have a pump sprayer like this no big deal you can take a rag full of wax and grease remover and clean it. first and then dry it, but if you are thinking about painting cars, it is a cheap alternative and an easy way to apply the cleaner to the surface, so once again we will let it sit for a few moments and let all the contaminants float to the surface and then we can go ahead and just clean it up.

Now at this point there should be nothing or residue on the rag since we washed the car since we cleaned it with the original Sprayway glass cleaner and now the prep solvent. You can see how clean the surface of this rag is and that is a good sign that we are going to get anice clean contaminant free paint job and just going around the car, we'll go ahead and end up here at the front, when those contaminants come to the surface and it's always a good idea, let's grab a rag and move it around. a little bit trying to get maybe a dry spot on the rag to absorb as much as you can, long strokes, there we go, all good, that wraps everything up for the cleaning process, make sure you go over it a couple of times, you'll never be able to clean. too much on a vehicle that's getting ready to be painted so if you think it's clean I'll go ahead and maybe do it one more time the car is completely clean now it's time to apply a sealant now the sealant we go to use You use a 2K sealer and you mix it three to one and we'll talk about that in a moment, but what is the reason why you need to use a sealer and what is a sealer or do you need to use a sealer well?

I told you earlier in the video, if you are new to painting, I would suggest just priming everything and then sanding it, that will be the cleanest and most efficient way for you if you are new, but if you are an experienced painter and maybe paint some cars in your garage with a sealant a year will be the best possible way or process on a vehicle like this and this is the reason why if you come and take a look at the vehicle, we have a multi-color vehicle we have primer, we have red, we have new fenders which are in black, the hood is black, so by applying a nice even coat, what that does is our base coat, our red, covers it evenly if we wouldn't have applied it. our sealant on a car that is all multicolor like this, then we would have to apply at least two or three more coats of Base, it would never match, it wouldn't be perfect, now the reason we are applying the sealant an OEM or aftermarket part is because it's a primer, it's a thinned primer, you don't sand again if you don't want to seal that, just prime these in 2K and then sand them and almost the entire car will be gray.

Go ahead and mix the sealer and apply it. This is a sealant that we are going to use that has many different types of sealant. This is a two part 2K sealant meaning it has the sealant and then it has the additives that make it harden, if you just put the sealant on it it would never harden and it doesn't matter which one goes in first whether it's the hardener or the reducer, because both are mixed with the next and then with the next in the actual cup. so we'll take the next one up to the next number five as we're using the series of five and then we're ready for our reducer the reducer dilutes it and if you're having problems it doesn't spray well just add about 10 percent more reducer , that will help smooth things out a little bit, but now you always want to start by mixing it according to the technical data sheets and what it suggests, so that's up to the next guy and we're good.

To continue now, just before you go ahead and spray your sealer or any coating, you're going to need to get a tack rack. These are auto tack rags, sometimes, if you try to get a tack rag from, say, Walmart. It's going to be for furniture and it's very greasy and it's not really compatible with car paint, but what you need to know is that when you get this sticky rag, you just don't put it right on the surface that you want to open it on first. You have to let this gas out or aerate first because it is a bit greasy.

Now this particular sticky cloth has low adhesion, which means that when you put it on the surface it won't leave any residue, but when you actually go to use it, you can't put it on too aggressively and we'll show you that here in a moment, but sometimes it will be a little hard to separate them, but once you separate it, go ahead and air it out for a while. Well, about 15 minutes or so and that will help when you are going to use it for the first time. Something like this will be fine and you can just hang it up and after about 15 minutes or so you can go ahead and get your tack rag. and I like to clump it together slightly like this and we'll start to slightly separate it from the surface on the top surface and all the way to the sides, you never want to push it down because that could leave some kind of residue there again, these are low tack, but you don't want to leave any type of residue on the surface now if you want to go a step further in your home garage or in your stand, remember that we are giving it to me. all the tips you'll need to get a clean paint job.

I have like a 90 particle control spray here and basically before you spray it right before you spray, you're going to want to leave it on and we put it on. on this pump sprayer right here and basically what this will do is coat wherever you're spraying and hold any dust or any contaminants on the surface so they don't end up in the paint. I work now I like to be very liberal with this that way you don't have to worry about recoding it or reapplying it, you would only have to do this once before the paint job of course it's never a bad idea to move on. and reapply if necessary, but this really works well, we've been using it in our paint

booth

and even at home it makes a big difference in surface prep and contamination, and it holds that dust just to make sure that can eliminate it as best as possible. as much polishing as possible, but you guys have to be realistic, you won't get the most beautiful paint job coming out of a paintless booth, but you can get very good results that can be polished if you want to take it to that.

It really shows a quality finish of the car, but keep in mind that there will be some work you will need to do, like these tips and tricks we provided. These are things that you should involve in your video to really make sure that you're getting the best finish possible right now, we've got everything nice and wet, we're ready to go, now we're going to spray our paint on this dv1 by the developers, now this is the base coat gun, but it will still spray. the sealer is ok honestly it will spray just as well its kind of marketing that this is a base coat gun but honestly it will spray everything i always suggest to you guys at home if you are going to like cars . get a good gun, you can use it as a sealer base and clean, get a separate cheaper gun for primer to set this up.

I always like to remove this fluid control knob right at a point where it will almost come out when it's on its last screw on the actual trigger and then turn it clockwise again until it stops. Well, once you stop, you will feel a little resistance on the trigger. At this point we know that this gun is set to the fully open position. Go ahead and take this fan. move it all the way to the left, that means it's set wide open at this point so the weapon is now operating at full capabilities and if it comes out too quickly or we can always dial this in a little bit on this weapon. it works at a much lower pressure, around 5 to 15 psi, but on most of their spray guns it will spray around 23 to 25 psi and we'll chat real quick about the paint room, so basically we'll have some sort of outlet. you need some kind of vent to get the fumes out but the way I like to paint is I start from the back so the overspray is carried out the exhaust to the front and then as we go we start re-coating from the back towards the On the front, we're just painting over any dried overspray, that serum has a much smoother finish and this is what we're going to do when we start with our sealer, our primer and our clear coat, we're ready to paint, we're going to let Bodhi do all the sealing, we'll give you some tips and tricks along the way, so let's seal everything right, we're going to start here on the back, we'll try out our pattern.

You're good to go, one light coat is all you'll really need, types you won't need to put on, let's say two or three coats, you just want the auto, a basic color that you can go back to in one go. If you want, but you won't need to go back and apply a full coat separately, so you'll allow this paint to dry for at least 15 to 20 minutes before moving on to the next step, the way we want. What we need to do is keep that edge wet and by keeping that edge wet we'll start on the side and we'll move up along the roof and what this does is keep a consistent wet edge and the Wet Edge is what we're looking at here Now when the sealant is applied, it becomes wet, that's exactly what you want.

If your sealant doesn't get wet, it's not going to dry smoothly, so keep that nice wet edge sealant and you'll be able to Let's have a nice smooth paint job, so that first coat fell. Now I could use a second layer and you see there's a little bit of light here. All that really matters is that we have some sealant in there. It's not really a bad technique. just that it would need one more coat to be completely covered, but as far as the sealant goes, this will do, but it won't hurt if you want to put one more coat on it, but we have the whole car in one color, but you want to. to allow this to really evaporate and evaporate means drying between coats and drying between coats we're looking at maybe a good 15 to 20 minutes and you'll see that in this area it's kind of like dolish but in some parts you'll still see the reflection of the light, you don't want to see that shiny reflection, you want to see it start to dull and that's a good visual indication that it's ready for base coat.

So in a moment we'll start spraying once everything has evaporated and so our sealer is dry and we're ready for our base coat, so we're going to mix two of them together here now. this is a little different because it's two to one, so all we did was locate the two to one mixing ratio. We're going to use the highest amount again, which is five, so we fill it here and then we'll fill it. to the next five with reducer, but we'll show you how we fill it in this one, so Adam will take this one here, we'll fill it to the five like this and it'll be a little bit thicker until it's completely reduced and it reduces from two to one, so which basically fifty percent of this mixture will be reducer and the reducer helps the paint dry, helps it come out of the gun and you can't use just any reducer, you have to use a reducer that comes with the actual paint and we're using a slow reducer and a slow reducer will basically help the paint dry a little slower but smoother, so if we use a faster or medium reducer you will run into problems where the paint is just dry and peeling orange and completely disgusting, so Adam is ready to lay down the base coat.

Now we're going to spray it the same way we did the sealer coat we're going to start with. the back on the hatch again working towards the front where the exhaust is and then you'll start here at the bottom you'll keep that edge wet and they'll move across the top and onto the other surface keeping about 75 to 80 percent overlap, the first coat may look a little smudged but it's not a big deal because the second and third we'll go ahead and put things together and get a nice solid finish and we'll start our base coat again with that dv1 base coat gun that we're using a real base coat here and like I said before you don't need to worry about buying a gun for every little thing unless you are a professional, if you do it yourself or at home buy one.

Good gun, will spray the sealant base and clean a separate gun for the primer. What Adam is doing here is walking around the entire vehicle. Now you don't need to do this for a solid color, but this is best practice for spring colors, as you can see. how do you continue and believe me this is a lot harder than it looks to stay consistent and even you want to keep around the 75 overlap and that means you are getting a good amount of coverage and 75 percent of what you just got . The spray overlaps once again so keep that good consistency over the panel and keep that wet edge and with that wet edge it's basically that edge of the product that you're springing on so for this example, right on the edge of the red and where it meets the white which is the wet edge that you want to keep overlaying until you're done and by overlaying it you're going to keep it nice and wet because if you let that edge dry out it's going to dry out with a crust so use that slow reducer to keep things moving and get a nice smooth finish.

Now, if you have a slightly rough finish on your base, you can always sand it with an 800 and just reapply it. This is me, just putting on a second coat we ended up putting on three coats, but we only show you here two coats and it's exactly the same for all three coats, there's no need for any powder coat or anything like that with a solid color, now we just finished placing the third layer. camera, so we did a total of three layers and it was the same as the first and second layer. Now, if you're doing a solid color, there's absolutely no reason for any kind of layering.dry or something or the layer that I actually put on. the third layer is wetter than most so it's nice and smooth.

Now, how long do you wait before applying varnish? Give it a good 30 minutes and allow all the solvents to come out of the paint because if we catch them with clear coat, you're going to see a little bit of solvent coming through so basically this is what it looks like as of now, good and done and let's go. You apply the clear coat using the gola 4600 digital extreme and have the DVR clear air cap. It's an amazing gun and what I like most about it is that it has the digital readout right there, so we'll do two coats when we put the first coat on Bodhi.

I'll put the first coat on, we won't get too wet, but the second coat will be a lot wetter now, when I do it I'll break it up into panels that way I can keep the finish wetter instead of walking down. I like to highlight the color, but when it comes to clear coat I get a much better finish just by keeping it contained in our areas. At this point we can go ahead and use our sticky cloth to go ahead and clean the surface of the actual vehicle. In itself, a lot of people ask, "Well, how come you don't attack well?

It's really not necessary if you don't have to, if you have a clean environment and you've been using the tips and tricks in the video, then you're going to have a lot of finish." better, so it's clear that we're going to mix it four to one, here's how to mix it for this particular clear coat. I noticed that four to one clear coats are thicker than most clear coats, so they could You can. They might be a little harder to spray, but they actually build up really well and are very crystal clear. Some clears turn a little yellow and can change the color if you do any kind of blending, but I really like the look. okay, four to one, so wait for the next five and okay, mix this up, start placing it, so it's time to lighten your project now on your first layer.

This is what I want you to do. It's easy, I don't want you looking for a complete clean and I don't want you to get angry or discouraged when it doesn't look beautiful with that first layer, what we have the body doing here is simply leaving a layer. kind of a grip, a semi-wet coat that will allow the second coat to really bite into it, you never want to have any kind of bleeding or sinking, especially on the first coat, it makes it a lot harder to get it off, so just connect the dots, let's place the clear coat on the panel and let's get into the rhythm of the painting so that when we get to that second layer we know what we have to do now.

One thing I never want you to do is stop at a door handle. or a gap in the edge, be sure to extend that clearance at least five to six inches beyond any gap in the edge. The reason is that the paint really has nowhere to go, so it's going to naturally pool on those edges and cause a run-like scenario where it's going to be very thick, so we don't want that, so making sure to keep that nice crisp wet edge, which is the most important thing when spraying a clear coat, your wet edge when spraying a clear coat is more important than any wet edge on any other material, the reason is that the clear coat dries much faster and it will show you if it's not shiny, so it's a little bit difficult, so we start towards the back of the car and then we go up and over the roof and back to the other side to keep that wet edge, but then you have to jump to the front and then connect all the dots now on the first layer, it's not a big deal, but on the second layer, where you're just going to leave it and you won't have a chance to catch up or go over it again.

That's when it's a little bit more important, when I go to spray the second coat, I'll go a little deeper into why and what you can do to help with that, and Bodie applied the first coat and did a phenomenal job, as we were saying, of applying the first coat not too wet and without worrying about a little bit of dirt with a little bit of orange peel here and there we need this sticky coat, especially when we spray in the garage of a house, so we apply that second coat. I'm going to go ahead and apply it a little bit thicker because we already have that original layer that's there. and it's ready to grab it but give it time don't put it on your clear coat right away help what you can and how are we going to help it we're going to give it 15 minutes before the next coat let the paint breathe a little and then we'll put it on .

I've said it before and I like to reiterate that you should give the first coat enough time to dry if you don't give this second coat enough time to dry. It won't do itself justice and won't work as it should sticking and sticking to the surface. See how much slower and heavier I go? I'm actually using an 85 percent overlay and what I need is for that original first coat to really help and grab this second coat, if I were to apply that first coat like I'm applying the second coat it would have smeared everywhere, so remember that again on the first layer if it doesn't look the way you just want to take a step back and then with the second layer you can fix things now.

I never really recommend three coats, but if you're going to put on three coats, you should double the waiting time, so let's say you waited 15 minutes. between the first and second coat I want you to double that now to 30 minutes before the last coat because you have so much material that you've sprayed and that just needs time to gas out and if you were to catch it with Well, a third coat will cause it to dry out and a lot of problems with the paint that you just don't want, so I only recommend two coats, but if you feel like you have some areas that have some texture or you want to smooth them out.

Remove even more because you have some dirt, so you can do it, just give it a little more time. Another tip you can use on your second coat is to add reducer 10 to the entire slow reducer mixture which will help loosen things up. Up top you can see here that I'm finishing on the driver's side, but then I'll have to go to the front of the hood and I'll show you what I do with the front of the hood and where I start because remember that. I applied the clear coat all the way to the passenger side door and it has been drying and if I don't put a clear coat on that area soon, when I go to spray this clear coat it will dry.

I need it to land. like an ocean like a big puddle of wet clear coats so to speak that's what I need and if it's already kicking then it's going to be a big problem for me so it's always important to use those slow activators, hardeners and reducers to preserve that painting. open it as much as you can, you can see here as I'm finishing up on the driver's side. I'm going to walk over and kick it over to the passenger side and pick it up before the paint really starts to dry, so I just finished here on the fender and the top of the door, let me go over to the passenger side right now and let me apply a little paint because I just sprayed my driver's, it will still give me a few minutes before it starts kicking.

So now I'm going to apply my paint from the passenger side and connect the dots again to the driver's side and it's just the little things that you need to know when you're spraying a car that make the difference because if you had If you wouldn't have done it this way way, you would have dry spots everywhere, so now as I go around the hood, I'm actually laying it down and overlapping it 90 on your horizontal surfaces, you can really get away with that. because it will flow naturally without running as easily so keep in mind that on horizontal surfaces you can put a little more polish in there because you will get a lot more dirt and dust that will fall in there and it will actually give you a little more material to polish so that, when I'm done here on the driver's side, don't worry about my clear coat.

Landing in a dry desert will land in a large abundant clear-shell ocean and melt. straight ahead and I'm not worried at all because I've used a little bit of reducer to help and I use slow activators in my hardeners and I know I'm good, well we did it, we applied two beautiful coats of clear, this is 30 minutes later and I have to say This looks impressive for not even being in a booth now. It is perfect? No, you're not going to find a perfect paint job even in a paint booth, but it looks great. and we've really minimized any kind of polishing that we're going to need to do, so if there's dirt on the paint, like there's a few specks of dust in this area, let me go ahead and sand them down and polish them and that's it.

I also have a lot of videos on how to do that, but a big question you guys always have is when do I start removing the tape. I'll tell you right now if you have areas that are bridged and that are next to paint, we can go ahead and remove them very quickly in at least 10 to 15 minutes, but if you have areas that are not bridged and you're worried that they might stick to the panel, then 30 minutes, that's where we are. At this point all we're going to do is gently lift up any of those areas so they don't stick together and we're going to have a nice finish on all of our edges and at this point now we've gone around and we'll continue to go around and take off on anywhere there's a bridge, but we want to leave it now for a good two hours.

Give yourself some time before you completely remove it now here in this area. You could go ahead and remove it now, but you don't need to because it's a back mask. When something is masked again, when you use the back of the tape, it will be much more forgiving, so give it all about a good partner. hours and then we'll come here, unmask everything together and reveal how amazing it looks after we take it outside. oh foreigner, there it is guys, we did a phenomenal job and you can do the same too. work in your home garage or wherever you are painting, using the tips, tricks and procedures that we use in this video will give you the exact same results and I must say, man, look how vibrant, how beautiful, how red it is. see this outside with just two coats. of clear is all you need for something like this, you don't need to add three or four high solids clears or clears today just don't require it from this point, all that will be needed is a little polishing on the hood and a roof to make this even smoother to remove paint residue and anything other than a paint boot, but guys, today we show you how to get amazing results in a normal paint room, in a room or in a garage, and here they are right in front. of you, what do you think?

Let us know in the comments what you think of this paint job. Let me know if there is anything you would have done differently or if there is anything you learned from this actual paint job that you are going to do. to apply on your next project I would love to know exactly what it is but look at it from start to finish you will see the consistency of the color because all the panels were originally sealed and remember if you are not going to seal just make sure all your panels are a uniform color to making sure that when you first take them out everything matches up consistently, amazing, amazing, really, very happy to work on such an iconic car and to work with body fission to bring you this amazing video, brother, we.

I did it man, thank you so much again for having me. I love making this content. We really show viewers at home how you can do something like this in your own home. Set up your own home garage, so make sure once again to follow us. body Vision on their channel there are many amazing videos like this and we hope to be back here to create more amazing content bro we hit it out of the park. I'll see you, sunglasses, this thing is shiny. Yes guys, it's Brian from the inside page to remind you not to overthink it, it's just paint.

I'll see you in the next episode abroad.