Sometimes The Repair is Better Than the Original........Drop the Mic...

Hey guys Joel Pie, here at Advanced Innovations, welcome back to the workshop, as last time we met, I discovered that this particular lug on the base of the mini router is either too short or not low enough or as Be called. The course of action I'm going to take, I'm going to take this off and I'm going to put a little pocket right there, about the same size as this lug, then we're going to put this little beauty in that pocket. and we're going to drill into that pocket and bring in a screw from the inside of the door that gives me guidance, that gives me push, gives me all the material I need, drill from the bottom and hit it directly in line where it's needed. get that out this morning on my CNC giving me corner rounds so I don't have to square the pocket or put champs on this or whatever, so let's knock this out, make this socket fit, drill that hole, cut this to size and let's move on to the next obstacle, let's do it, we're going to zero the cutter on the top plane, raise the table and then start pecking the pocket.

I'm going to try to remove as much material as I can. You can peck it like this to avoid movement of the cutter, it will still turn a little in the direction of rotation, but for the most part this is the quickest way to remove material with a smaller diameter cutter without fear of breaking it. I never want to go all the way in with such a small diameter cutter. This is a 125 cutter measuring about 3mm, a little larger than 3mm, it will stay a couple thousand away, a couple thousand away, it will stay a couple thousand away. and clean up the scallop marks that are present for an operation like that because it's going to leave an ugly wall a few thousand away in the Dr.

We're going to go back and make a wide cut on one side it's a climb the other side is a conventional, I'll cover it another time and to check the width of the socket, that's good, now I'm going to go back around the bottom and remove that back wall and that should do it, it wasn't half as bad as I thought it would be fine, the pocket is already done, the rest of what was left has been removed, the insert fits very well, nice deep engagement, so it will be quite strong, pretty much a seamless transition to the

original

surface, now I just have to sit here . for a while and figure out how to turn that screw to hold this thing.

I'll probably take it with a grain of salt and I'm definitely not going to bore you with it in the movie. The through hole, the threaded hole that will be there. It's for the lifting mechanism on the table and that will be drilled and tapped from the back inverted let me secure it we'll get back to that so far so good the little block is now secure and it's time to set the height of the block before the radius is added. I don't have the right size radius tool so I'll use something that's relatively close and blend it with a file after the fact, it's much easier to see where the radius is running out if you use a Sharpie Marker and notice how the diameter of The tool slides toward the edge of the part or the edge of the feature.

Same with the vertical sides, what you want to do is watch the bottom of the cutter and not allow the bottom of the cutter to sink. because that's just one of those times where you have to go, I don't, so mark the vertical surfaces as well and see if the cut line slides to the bottom of the cutter. A little oil for finishing. pass for a

better

finish and you can move on. The next thing I'm going to do is remove the entire assembly from the machine. I'm going to remove the base block here, deburr it completely, blow it out front and back. faces and reinstall it to look like the

original

casting with just the faces.

The machine will return quickly if you have space in your shop and a compressor to power it. A small shot blasting unit is good to have small parts. A small cabinet. Alright? extra effort on this particular part, I decided to relieve 100,000 from the top side so I can push a headed brass bushing into this and drill and tap it to accept the left 540 screw that will go through the top surface here. act as a bumper that engages the knee itself and leaves me room for the socket head to press in there and look relatively presentable. Looks good to me, so let's have the bushing press it there, hit it and see if that's true. to make the left 540 screw and the lead screw that goes there, let's do that.

Take a quick look at the hub. The bushing goes to the receiver. Everything will be drilled and tapped upon assembly. We're going to put it over the vise and tighten it down a little bit. a little bit of oil in there first to make sure this doesn't remove too much along the way. I'm hoping to see a little bit of curl on the back, but it's almost unavoidable, this is very smooth, as the surfaces I need to make to properly make a hole in this little bus here is going to be extremely difficult to physically lift, which I'm going to do is do the same thing that I've done on several other models, if you've seen my channel, I'm going to create a surface that I can pick up and then I'm just going to install the piece and trust my setup and create the feature that, with that being said, this slot in particular here is as wide as indicated the outer edges of the dovetail and the outer edges of the dovetail with the knee in place and the pin in the knee, let's say three times as fast anyway, I hit the pin on the knee I put my zero on my digital remove the knee and then I used the exact same center line to trace the outside of the dovetail to make sure the dovetail was a reliable feature to lean from to create this right here, okay, with that being said, come on, now it's a zero plane when this is located vertically and this little slot was placed there at the same time it was cut, so now that's my vertical indication offset point.

I can use an edge finder against this face and just scroll in and then indicate this for the center line problem. resolved once the configuration is done, this part will slide here. Let's get a camera angle that does it justice. There you have it, I'll lock it with a single clamp and blind drill from the bottom and be 100% safe. that the feature when the drill goes through the bottom and hits that lug it's going to go right through where I want it to go that's the plan, let's put this on the machine, let's do some quick directions, let's make a hole there, which is very good Technique guys, if you've never tried it, try it.

I used it in the steam engine I made. I did it on the shaper. I did it. I'm doing it on the router and I'm not sure what model. This was so I normally mark the bar as you can see the shape or the base of the motor and that's it, anyway we're going to set it up, do it for, for, for, for, Hey guys, a little sidebar here before we get to the point. Unique to 540 thread. A 540 thread is one-eighth of an inch in diameter, that's about 3 mm. I think it's a little more than 3mm, but this is what happens when you twist something, thread something, or pull something apart.

Let's see, this is the material and us. We're looking down the spindle when that tool comes into contact with that material, several things will happen, possibly several things will happen, the material will deviate from the center and if you have a piece of material extended too far out from the clamping points, chuck collet, whatever it is, that's exactly what's going to happen, it's going to move away, flex, deflect, it's also going to want to climb over the tool and the tool itself will also make contact and dip like a separation. tool that's why separation tools break when they break they probably break here they separate and just explode and scare you forever right to the kill, thanks Mr.

Compressor, well said, one or two things I want to keep from happening while I point out a single thread. This thread is that I want to prevent the part from deflecting and I want to prevent the part from going up on the tool. There are two ways to do it. There are actually two surfaces that need to be restricted. you need to restrict the back surface so it can't be pushed and you need to restrict the top surface so it can't be lifted or rolled, that's why I made this little one for my lathe. This is a half phenolic linen.

Le folic, this is like a carter, the same thing you use for a knife handle, hard things, really hard things that screw into the front of the carter and this little cutout here is for a conventional right hand thread and a right thread because that stops. the material from dipping under the tool and moving away and this is for the left and the thread this keeps it from lifting up and moving away I'm going to put this on the front of the lake even set it up it's on a slide here there is no boom like the from the camera, let's go now and since it's my Letter, any material that is being cut will probably displace some of the material and the material will not displace part of the part, which is the least desirable scenario here's my C to follow, quick break, simple, stupid and the first way to set the hole in the block to support the piece was to put a milling cutter in my collet and I just ran it through to the milling cutter and started opening the tool hole and then just cut accordingly so it was very easy let's set it up show you what it is the tracking mount is attached to the front of the carriage and that's my locking line on my tripod that appears like this so forgive me here's the slide that's on the top part and that's for different size materials I have a 540 this is my 540 block 540 left hand on one side 540 right hand on the other side and let's say to set this up I'm going to zoom in on this block and this camera as much as I can So right there, let's lock that in there, we're going to move the whole setup very close to the face of the col and I'm looking at my plate on the back so it doesn't crash, that's going to be my zero stop point and I'll put a stop on the bed so you don't hit this back here by the collar back here by the Chuck will be the most likely chance of having concentricity, so I'm going to move this in until it touches just run it until it touches a gentle pressure on the back, tighten the two screws, okay, right now, the material can't be pushed out or up, let's turn on the machine, let's make a pass, be careful with the end here, it will probably jiggle a little. but as this gets closer it will stand still, take a look.

I have to tell you, it's one of the most useful attachments I've ever made and if you have any of this stuff lying around, grab some and make one of these awesome ones. to at least make the contact point of something that will yield to whatever material you're threading, let me set up my threading tool, change the camera angle, put a 540 on the left and thread it on for about an inch and spread it a quarter part and check it with the new lug on the base. Hang well before starting this. The preferred method of threading in this shop is away from the mandrel or collet, so normally on a right hand thread I will have the tool reversed.

I will use a left hand tool and because this is a right hand tool I will use a left hand insert on this side, I'm going to turn it over, it's very close and I'm going to thread it away from the shaft or the collar on this particular left and I'm still far away from the collar, but the tool is conventionally positioned and the machine is set up so that when I engage my half a nut, the tool comes out, which will result in a left hand thread and well, for anyone who is confused about exactly what the heck are you doing?

That's what I'll do. OK let's do it. 570 RPM, 40 threads per inch. Left threaded, the right shaft rotates conventionally, the machine is set to engage reverse gear. 5 170 RPM. An easy way to know if there is deviation or rise in the piece. Firstly, a combination of rise and deflection will give you thread vibrations if you simply have a deflection clock at the crest of the thread closest to the Collard or Chuck, rather than at the unsupported end, you can wait for the crest of the thread. Thread the top, the outside diameter of the thread to have a wider space between not a wider space between the depth will look shorter and the ridge at the top will look wider, that's because the part is being zooming out, this will remove, let's go back Also, the depth of cut on these passes is very shallow, it's only about 3.7 inches deep and between passes I'm visually checking with an eye loop to make sure the settings are correct and that it lands on the crest of the thread.

It's the same all the way down. I have prepared a small piece of brass drilled and tapped with the same drill and tap that the base piece was made with to use as a functional gauge. I'm going for a very specific feel here, you can also do this with wires or a stiff gauge as you see fit. It's always handy to have a working gauge on hand, okay, the mini lead screw has been assembled into the knee and lines up nicely with the new bushing on the bottom. I am very satisfied withthat, see, put down this thing that's very soft, what I'm not really sure about is why it sticks out the bottom a quarter of an inch.

Everything is absolutely printable, but notice how it comes out of the bottom hole. Not only does it come out of the bottom hole, but it stops very close to where it should. I'm thinking this shaft called here 2 inches long probably could have been considerably shorter if I moved it up now, I would say it takes so much to get off this end, this would shift down, this would be flush, it may compromise the riser, let's see there's a little bit of gear noise on the elevator, if you can hear that or not, I'll figure out why that's happening and do it. go away, let's see when we get to the level here what happens, so imagine and start putting this guy together and we're going to put this in just for disgust.

You can see that the spindle is well below the height of the table when finished. I think I can just adjust the length of this screw myself at a later date. I won't do it now because the model is not complete and I don't know what will happen in the future, but there you have it, the bus

repair

worked. It came out very well, I'm pleased with the way the brass finally ended up pushing in there, it looks great, it seems like on any knee I've had surgery on, you can always see the brass nut on the top of the lug that holds the screw and this. it's just a gauge pin with the faucet handle glued to it, not really a commitment, just a bit of drill.

Rod, there you have it, thanks for watching guys, that's a wrap that turned out really well. I am very happy with it, leave your comments in the comment line Thumbs up Press the Subscribe button. I appreciate everything wherever you are in the world. I hope you are well, happy and safe. I'm Joe P Advance Innovations in Austin, Texas. I'm out, guys. I got a little off base. for a second to address the little shelf that will go on the side where the door is on the base so this is what you start with flash lines, some cutouts, some doors and if you spend some time on it this is what you will get .

I ended up with flash lines that disappeared. I machined the back flat so it rests square against the mold. I also went lightly inside. You can see the cutter witness mark right there, just on this side, so the head. of the screw has a parallel surface to rest on and there will be no influence, then bend the screw or shelf in any direction, so it's not a big deal, just be careful what size screw you use and that it has enough clearance to head. Turning this was almost tangent, so I'm hoping this will be a bit of a challenge.

I'm going to show it and we're going to say that this base is finished. For this time, there are two more holes to make in the On the Other Side, but you've seen one, you've seen them all.