Honda CB Sevenfifty (RC42) Vergaser synchronisieren & mehr...

Hello everyone, today we continue with the synchronization of the air filter, spark plugs and carburetor. Maybe I'll check it out again soon. The battery has weakened a little, but that's what awaits them today like a screwdriver. side Take a quick look at the timeline to know what's coming up. If anyone is interested in a specific topic, they can just search for it, so of course you start with the seat and fairing, then move on to the battery, and then. the air filter and be able to do the rest of the things. Then the tank comes out, then we get to the spark plugs and also the carburetor.

Now you can see that in the first three values ​​there are two numbers. which looks like it has a cable, I just reinstalled it and that's why I thought I'd share it anyway, come on, let's of course go with the seat, it has to go down first, the lock back here, no I don't think I need an SM5 to show it to people drivers, everyone can remove the bench like this. Then of course the side panels are removed here, attached to rubber pieces at the front and usually screwed on here. With us it looks a little different.

Unfortunately, things have already broken here and normally they would just screw together here and that will hold. Unfortunately that is no longer the case so I had to use cable ties here. That's not good, but we. I still haven't managed to find new side panels. We actually have the problem on both sides, as you can see, but that also means I have to take them apart during assembly. A side cutter activates, I just do it on both. sides and that's it. Yeah, like I said, here in the front you can see rubber clips and down there again, I can show you right here are the two deluxe mushrooms.

I think you can say they are called mushrooms. and here are the corresponding rubber bands. Always check that they are good, that they are still soft, that they are still complete, that they are still there. Sometimes they are completely missing so somewhere it works. They are available individually. You can buy spare parts from Honda. He's sitting here. I'll write it in the video description if you need any. Now you can start by taking the train because it's right in front of me. I always wanted to carry it. Then test it again to see if it's still okay.

These are simply thirteen screws, there's even a slot there, there's another ten and there's one in the scene and you have to look a little here because there's the. Brake fluid container for the rear brake. So it's best to put the screw back in so it's not hanging stupidly in the area, but otherwise, there are the connections up here and then you can remove them, that's done. quick here with the three screws, the memorial, come on and number three, I always press this a little bit to get it out and push the screw back so we can tighten the brake fluid container again.

If I don't have to do it anyway, I'll just tighten it again. Good battery of the last ones. In the end you also take it out and it's gone. Now you can take it out with its cup, it's there. in some kind of container with the air filter, make there are 4 cross screws here remove the cover. By the way, there's a board here, you can see it, but now we have to see it pretty well. There is only one joint here. up here, you want to make sure that it stays where you wanted it to be, I mean now you just take it apart here, the filter itself is located here and down here, but instead of holding the clamp, you basically have to push it up and then you can take it out the side. and then the filter has to go down and then you can take it out like this if I look at it a little bit, it's already picked up a little bit from three Qatar, I look closely at the slats again and then they get relatively dark. but it's still okay, everything is okay.

I think the machine barely moves this season, the right one moves very little and will probably still work, so I think I'll leave it this season and do it again next spring. that the next day you don't have to do much. It's screwed here on the front, it attaches to the frame on the left and right. Actually, this is typical, as always. The fuel cock has to be there. disconnected, it has two connections under pressure and the fuel line that goes down is over the carburetor and then the tank is still overflowing, I think, and I don't know if it's two or two, I don't think.

I'm already sure, but I can see a little bit of rise and then of course I'll show you everything, but now I need you to take it off first, so there's only twelve millimeters up here, by the way, that's exactly how it is. Here's this one that's covered here and that's the actual screw which is the sleeve and it's just sitting here and you can screw it on and now you can lift the tank up here just fine, I'm going to do that a little bit now I'm going to do something in between places so I can reach better. to the hoses, so now I've raised them up a little bit and now you can see the two connections that are on the fuel cock, that's the vacuum connection that's on the connection here On the second winter You just have to tighten this little clamp here and then you can remove it at the back.

That is exactly the line that goes down to the carburetor and supplies it with fuel. Of course, you have to remove it and turn it on again. appropriately on the back, but you can see you can get there to a certain point and then on the other side we have that maybe even better from here, there on the side, these two, so that's good, those are the two The hoses that go directly to the tank are on the other side, but I can see it pretty clearly over here now, so I'll show you from here. Of course, they have to go out too, so I've already done that.

I have the clamp down here, but that one. The hose doesn't really want to come out yet, so I always start by trying to twist it. I tried to get it in here with the pliers, but I actually managed it. With my hand you can see it rotates a little bit and now you can do it. So take it out piece by piece. I actually have a nice pair of hose printing pliers, but they're of no use in that area. 'Cause you can't get there, so I keep fiddling. Now you can see them from here and, above all, you can easily move left and right with your fingers so that you can then remove them properly.

Number 1 and number 2 won't put up much of a fight especially since that one has a nice clamp that you can press down on and then we don't have it, well sometimes they don't know that you should just take it off, I have it here but unfortunately I don't know if it's standard because the small hose is there. Of course you have these strange clamps typical of the slightly larger ones which of course you can press much better by hand. I just don't know if they were standard or if one of those really belongs there, but here I pull out my masking tape again and then I can.

Now carefully here, I slowly pull back and Mr. Company like this and now you can see. These two rubber bands on the left and right, they are placed on the frame here, the tank is sitting on it, it has corresponding places. I can see it directly, yes, since these are the places that slide there. which is attached at the front and at the back, you can actually use the screws to figure out how to take out the plugs. There is also a corresponding pair of pliers, but unfortunately I don't have them, so I have to do it. use them Try it by hand, but it usually works pretty well, so there's always a little bit of caution and that's okay and on the second one, straight up, yeah, okay, but on the side and you won't see that on the camera here, that's why If you look closely, you will see it there.

At the bottom there are some grains of dirt and dust or sand or something else, not in the front, actually not that much. I can definitely see some grains of sand on the back. , you definitely have to remove them before unscrewing the candles because otherwise it could fall into the cylinder. We definitely don't want to get upset about it. Yes, you can clean the thing in question, you can also fall in many ways. and shapes. The argument is that my light is crooked. I'm one of the RV's of all people who cares a lot about the candles themselves, which in this case are 18, so you need an 18 candle wrench, of course there is this one.

From the built-in tool, it actually works quite well. In fact, I prefer it if there is still a chance to finally get it with the appropriate desire to do this now also on the 18th, then let's start with the first lost candle. be honest as soon as she lets go I'm going to go with the rubber on and I'll go out with her or if really talking isn't going to work I think I'm a little fat on the other hand, in the end she fell while standing up and falling in a state of shock, so it probably won't be that bad, let's take a look at the others, the angle doesn't seem to be ideal here, but it works because behind it there is just plastic that you can push. a little bit, but a plastic cover and then it works pretty well, yes this one is actually better, it's a little bit brighter, so maybe now we can see each other better, they are a little bit different, one of them is darker, the other is brighter, that means one cylinder ran a little richer, the other a little leaner, maybe it's actually a little out of sync again, so the carburetor might be indicating that inserting the spark plugs is important.

I always do that with these. I've gotten so used to the rubber pieces, the big advantage is that if you really make a mistake you can look around the corner without any problem, so that works quite well, and on the other hand, if you really make a mistake . one mistake and the candle goes out. With the thread in the cylinder head somehow stuck, it can always happen in a rush or something like that, so nothing happens here because it just slips away, twists a little, slides and that's it. force that is transmitted there, no thread breaks, that's why at some point I got into the habit of using this permanently and in fact I always use it, I even use it on the Habs that people who watch my Saab videos probably have seen.

I've done it before on the 95. I did it like this and in the end when it comes to tightening the spark plugs, you just have to go through the process of tightening them. There are nice stories about new spark plugs when they are. on, half a turn on a quarter turn used because the seal has already settled a little, but you can find it. There are always torque specifications and I think whenever you have the opportunity to get to the spark plugs to be able to apply a torque. wrench, you must also do it with torque, which is different for other machines, for example the Dominator has it.

You don't stand a chance if you don't remove the tank or anything else, but if you just fumble around around the front to put the sail on, you really turn around because you can't get there with the key and at that moment the key but here it comes, I'm holding on very well and that's why I'm fixing it. the 510 newton meters now. Fall again 1 and number two, we're doing the exact same thing on the other side, so we get there before I deal with the carburetor here. I need it. I just put the. air filter back on, not that I forgot, so here we have the air filter, which belongs like this, the flat side with the opening facing up, we have it down here, I'll show it well if there is a rail like this, but a rolling rail and here in the casing, of course.

That's basically where it goes and then it goes up and this seal here then directs the inlet here because the part up here is the inlet and the air basically comes in up there. Behind him, where my finger disappears, is the entrance. The air comes in and then goes through the filter here so that it seals well up here. Of course, this clamp here has to lower these errors again. Can't. handle that, so I just save the small one and do it with the big clamp in there. Now it's next to the lid, like I said, make sure the seal is in order.

You still need to screw it in. here and there, so we'll take a quick look at this point. I wasn't quite sure if it was still in order or if it just wasn't charged, which is why I just gave you a test device here. enter the battery charge, so now of course you have to get out of the vehicle, the BMS is oneThe battery is so standard that it was a little difficult to figure out because unfortunately there is nothing written on the battery itself. At some point I may specify the standard, but I don't have any value that matches the standard, for example the. broken battery from the other BMW Says 150 amps or so So that's the standard code rating, it should deliver 150 amps, ideally you should know that if you want to test it properly.

Now I'm lucky, but the dealership says it is. It's supposed to deliver 230 amps, so here it is. The standard and 230 amps are supposed to be brought in, we are doing it now by adjusting that it was 30 amps in the center and now it is measured and this 90% good health means that it can still correctly deliver 207 amps that you measured, brought the standard would be 230, everything is fine. Well, I like that, the state of charge is 98 percent and the state of health is 90 and now I almost made a mistake again, of course that's because Honda is It's very nice and it also makes it possible for people to use rum appropriate.

Less time is written on it, so this plane here faces outward, the chosen one faces inward because I have an extra connection up here, the screw is always too short. and it doesn't always catch this nuthere, that's why sometimes I have to put a screwdriver under it and give it a small one, I lift it up a little so that the thread can grab it so that the threads are tight. I also do this in the scene. After a few minutes, something like the covers sit here very nicely. You can see that there is an additional yellow wire coming out here and ending at an additional 7.

René I use the relay to switch the power supply voltage for the navigation system and the heated grips, which is activated separately and is not connected directly to the battery, but is controlled via the lights relay, which means that as soon as the low beam comes on while I'm driving the relay comes on and then there's a retaining bracket on the front which is again the screw where the back of the fluid container attaches to so the first thing I always do It's re-fixing it so it's somewhat secured in position, Natalie is there to sync it up.

I forgot things about a synchronous tester, an external fuel source, and a long thin screwdriver. That's all. Now I will show you the synchronous tester. I have classic ears, but I have a cartoon pro which I found somehow more elegant and it's also easier for me to read like this and it doesn't take up as much space. Now you can see that all four connections up here are pressurized. hoses that are attached to the respective words here and I have connected them to the cylinders in exactly the same way as the order is 1234 and the same thing are cylinders 1 connected here, cylinder 2 connected to cylinder 3 and over there the four can see exactly There They are now wired for the connections here on the convertible pro, there are inserts here that are made of plastic but are still relatively durable.

You screw them in place of the cover screws that are here, put the hose on and that's it. It is connected to the external fuel source, so at some point I bought a cup that doesn't always hang at about the same level where the tank would normally be, so I will say that the fuel pressure listed here on the line is more or minus the same one and the float needle valves have no problem, this one is a little loose so I have to put a clamp on it right away otherwise something will leak, but otherwise it is connected the same way, there is also a closure, which always seemed very practical to me and yes.

The whole structure is good in terms of procedure. Cylinder number two is the so-called master cylinder. Nothing is changed, but everyone else has to get their bearings. themselves in it and you do it in the following way, in the first step cylinder 1 is adjusted to cylinder two, that is, look, then here are the scales, you will see them later down there, how they go up in the same way. , so that they have practically the same height, as precise as possible and you do it with this screw down there with the first one in the second cylinder.

Then we do the same thing with cylinders three and four, now I know three is a little hard to see, it's down there, here are the 4 and you can also line them up with each other and you should do that and first you'll know yourself, look for the screw from there that is like this with the screw from here and now just below that means that you have them the same, that means that cylinders 1 and 2 then work the same, three and four then work the same but possibly the values ​​of these two and the values of this one The work is It's still different and this can then be fixed with a middle screw and unfortunately it's located right here under the frame so now I have to film a little bit down there is the one that is the one that adjusts the screw and then connect the. two groups of cylinders or groups of carburetors together to adjust, yes, so far, first a little dry theory, now comes a little step and then I have to let it warm up, as you can see the result is really excellent, definitely we have to act. ok like I said the two are the master cylinder minister In an adjustment to this, that means we now take the screw here on the front and then turn it a little bit, that's not too bad at first, then we move on to the other two.

Countries 3 and 4 are the configuration here on the front, I can point to them, on the screw, next to each other or directly above, you have to turn off the light. Yes, I think it works better without them. light, I hope you don't understand anything, let's go to the front again because from here now I see that it's not exactly right, so the last setting you can see if I turn it a little bit and then it changes immediately. We found that the idle speed changes immediately. What is still missing is the coordination of the two bridges with each other.

So, the screw that's down there is exactly the one you can't see right now, that's the one we have here and it's so pretty. under the frame if you're so bad at that, but you can see that now I put the screwdriver in it and the first two are no longer completely facing the wrong direction. Now the teacher comes down, but you can see that he is a little better now. again, but they are different overall, so you can see that some passes are necessary. Well now I need four passes, this is how it currently looks and with that.

I can live with that? Like I said, you just need to load these. screw with the weight of a screwdriver or press a little harder and the values ​​change even without you turning, but actually now it can be used if you give it the throttle, it stays like that, so I've won, you can see it one and two. already started again amazing so another 5th round now I've finally done it now it's practically in the right position so it stays that way even after I step on the accelerator and that's how I read it now While it's still cooling down here, a Of course, Some very simple practical advice should ensure that these rubber lines going to the synchronous tester, no matter who takes them or others, of course they are made of rubber and if possible they should not be on the valve here somehow. cover or something else hangs right off the engine otherwise it won't melt and you'll see here's the clutch cable, it's hanging out here, that's not what I normally have behind it here and then.

It also passes behind this hose. Now I changed it briefly and moved it out so I can access it easily, just a tip from practice, so to speak, it has cooled down, which means the tank is in it. I have to check that I am here on the front, this guide and give it to the press. Ready, now it slides very well here, as always, let's see if the screws here really fit exactly. the support on one. Then you've caught him. Raise it a little again. Okay, now all the hoses are back on, but that's what I'm trying to do here is I'm trying to put on. the hoses again.

Where do we have what? The little girl has to go there. The big one has to go. I can't turn the corner. Nicer to grip, now I had the pliers, those actions are here. So the curved days, some of them are very handy, I've always found that you can use them very well because the clamp is now in place so you have to grab it directly from the bottom and it worked very well with these pliers. It's up there and you can go directly to it. Let's start with him. It's back on, it's pretty tight now, but that's simply because the tank is still elevated.

I'm hitting the right angle here again, you can see they're back where they belong. Have something? Maybe you can see it there, I think pretty well, like this tank, these indentations in a tank. sitting right now in these rubber cases like this. The screw has to be back here like I said, up to 1 12, the side parts also fit well in the back. I usually do it like this before putting them here with him. I put mushrooms in the rubbers again here so I can put a very short load of silicone on them. I'm going to spray it now because I haven't found anything that can help the rubbers last longer and that's what you want, yeah and here.

Unfortunately I have to use the flange again and finally the seat is rusted, the lock is rusted, everything is clear. That's all for today, the Honda is ready and can get back on the road. It probably won't go that many miles. this year, but that's a different matter. Still, it's supposed to work optimally and I think it's doing it again now. I hope you enjoyed it and if so, check it out again next time so we see ourselves as women.