WATCH THIS before your next OIL change!! SAVE A LOT of money!!

Good morning, welcome back to the channel, today we are going to talk about three different things, number one, how to

change

the oil in a dry sump Corvette c7, number two, how to save a lot of

money

doing it and number three, how to reset. its oil life monitor again on corvette c7 so

this

is what im using mobil 1 extended performance full synthetic 5w30. Now for these, I bought each of these at my local Walmart. They were twenty-five dollars and forty-seven cents each, so I got about fifty dollars on two of the five-quart jars, which in itself is not bad, you know, full synthetic oil, $25, $25, not a bad price, but if you do it right, there actually comes a time when year, which Mobil 1 usually does about 4 times a year, they actually offer a rebate on these jugs at 12 dollars a piece, so I paid 25 for

this

and they gave me back twelve dollars.

I paid 25 for this and got twelve dollars back so I finally have about fifty dollars. in oil and they gave me back about twenty-four dollars, so about twenty-six dollars in oil here before taxes for full synthetic and ten quarts and then here's the oil filter, this is the OEM GM AC Delco PF sixty-four oil filter, Yes I know the way Chevy designs them; it actually has a 22 psi bypass valve and a lot of other companies like even Mobil 1 KN oil filters still use the 17 psi bypass valve and basically what that means is it allows for a lot. of unfiltered oil to bypass the filter versus this one keeps the pressure tighter so the oil doesn't pass any further.

In fact, I've read a couple of places that say this PF 64 is really the one to use because of that PSI difference. I will now put a link below to the Mobil 1 website where they do their promotions. It's not available right now, it just ended at the end of October, so it's not something you can see right now, but whenever they release it. In fact, I'll go to that link and check it out, and if you want to do something like this

your

self, honestly, it's such a good price for full synthetic oil that you'd be stupid not to just buy them, but why not get them too?

Honestly, I mean the promotion, like I said 26 dollars plus tax, then my oil filter here from Amazon is about five dollars and some

change

, so I bought a couple of these on Amazon and I mean, I got my old change here for a little over $30, while the dealer charges hundreds of dollars for a full synthetic oil change in a Corvette, so these are the tools you'll need. Number one is going to be a fifteen millimeter socket wrench, like I said this is for the dry sump oil system. and there will be two different drain plugs, they will both be fifteen millimeters, but I noticed that the one on the side is a little tight to put a ratchet in there, so I also have a ratcheting socket wrench that is also fifteen millimeters for that, but the The filter I have there now is a Mobil one, which is the one I used last time to change the oil before I learned about the 22 psi bypass valve, so this filter wrench here is 76 millimeters, but it's fourteen flutes so it will work on the Mobil 1 Filter but it won't work on the new AC Delco filter now when I say flute it's literally just the little indentations that you can see there are 14 of them whereas on the AC Delco you need to have one, I think it's 15, so literally There will be a little bit of a difference, so this won't remove the AC Delco, but it will remove the one I have there now, so I'll make sure to pick it up

next

time I have to and swap it out. but that's it, you just need something to remove the filter and something to remove the drain plugs and obviously you'll need the oil drain pan and the oil funnel as well, so basically we talked a little bit about the price.

Go ahead and start the actual oil change now, if you guys don't know how to change the oil in

your

Corvette c7 stay tuned, let me show you how, so we get the car up on the ramps, these are the racing ramps that I use. Right here are the 67 inch separate racing ramps and then I also have the extension here because basically you're not going to get a lowered c7 on these things without them, you gotta remember your wheelchair because safety is the number one concern. here at horsepower obsessed now we're going to go up here, take the oil cap off just to relieve any extra pressure that's in the system, that way everything drains nice and easy, also grab the funnel, throw it in here like that. it's ready to go now I'm going to trap it under the car okay now we're under the car here's the front drain plug here's the side drain plug and then here's the oil filter so I'm going to start with the front drain plug here, when I go ahead and loosen it, okay, now the inevitable hard way to get this plug out without getting oil on your hands, there we go and she comes out, now is also a good time to inspect. your drain plug here, make sure all the threads are good, the rubber seal at the end is good, you don't want any oil to leak out after you're done here, so take a good look at these, clean them up, everything looks fine.

The threads on mine are all good, the rubber seals are good, so it's good to reuse them now while this one continues to drain. I'm going to go ahead and take out this plug right here, this one on the side, like I said, it's tight up there with a socket wrench, so I actually have my ratcheting box wrench here, it just goes in here, it fits perfectly there. like this and just loosening like this now we'll go ahead and also let that one drain at the same time as the other ones still. going there she goes and then the same thing with this drain plug just clean it out, make sure everything's good.

I'm going to let it drain for a moment and then I'll see you back under the car five minutes later. Okay, they're still leaking a little bit, but I mean, obviously, these bees are going to leak almost every time, so I'm going to go ahead and put the drain plugs back in and finger-tighten them here for a second and then again. Wipe out the oil that's still in there so nothing will burn or smell when you turn it on Kent, now we're just going to tighten these up, you don't want to go crazy with these just tightened up, so

next

we're going to go ahead and remove that oil filter is another one of those things where you're basically going to be covered in oil, so let it drain a little bit like this, once it slowed down a little bit, you didn't remove it, but sure your hands will still be covered in oil, it's a little bit more slow so I'm going to go ahead and just turn it the rest of the way to keep things from getting pretty slippery so be careful and I'll let the rest of it drain out of there Wow, I clean my hands so I have the new filter here.

I'm just going to take a little bit of oil and run it over the seal here, something like that to make it a little easier to remove for the next oil change so it never gets stuck in there or anything like that. I already filled this with oil so it fills to the top with Mobil 1. You don't have to do this. I always do it because it seems like good practice, fill it that way on the first few outings, not dry, you just want to hand tighten it, tight enough that nothing leaks out, but you don't want to make it too difficult for you to continuation.

It's time to take it off so no tools or anything needed just hand tighten it and you should be good to go so we're back on top. I'm going to go ahead and open up these five quart oil jars and start adding them. Now with the dry sump oil system, after you add all the oil and put 9.5 quarts in here, you want to let the car warm up to 175 degrees, at least after it gets to 175 degrees it will go ahead and shut down the engine. and then wait five to ten minutes. You don't want to wait more than ten minutes, so after that period you can take the dipstick out of the engine and check the oil level and add it if necessary, but basically this is the way. make sure there's enough oil in the crankcase and everything to get an accurate reading this is what you need to do to get an accurate reading and while we're sitting here waiting for the car to warm up so we can check the oil level I'm going to move on and show you how to reset the oil life monitoring system, we'll go to settings on the left and then information and then from here we'll scroll down to oil life, which, wow.

I'm at exactly zero percent, so it definitely needed to be done, but now we can do it two ways: we can press and hold the select button here, so if I press and hold it, it just resets or else you do. If you want to do that, you can press the directional button right up here on the screen, you'll see it come up and then you can press Reset from there either way, that will reset you back to 100 and then you're in. Well for another year, it's been about six minutes. I'm going to go ahead and check the oil level here.

I'm not sure how well you'll be able to see it, but it's almost right at the top of the heat. It's just a little below the heat, so we're ready. I don't need to add anything more to this. I'm just going to go ahead and put it back in and we're all set guys, that'll do it for today's video. If you have any questions about the process or how I went about purchasing all the materials, please post them in the comments section below, give me a big thumbs up if you liked the video, and if you haven't already, please subscribe.

I love having you as part of the horsepower obsessed community and as always guys, I'll see you in the next upload.