Utter Filth Volkswagen Golf Gets Deep Cleaned & Detailed!!!

foreigner Hi guys, Joe here at jp details with a 234k mile

volkswagen

golf

1.6 tdi, my tired, in need of a serious makeover, the exterior is dirty from being driven many miles most of the time on incredibly rural roads muddy, hence the condition the gulf joins us today for a three day detailing training course with a guy called Adam who intends to set up his own detailing and valet business, so he first contacted me to receive training. Our intentions for the next three days are To address the incredibly dirty exterior and the faded, swirled paint underneath, as well as a

deep

clean of the interior engine bay and wheels, we'll start by showing you the car to give you a general idea of ​​what we're doing. . against and then we'll begin with a complete step-by-step guide on how to get a neglected vehicle back to pristine condition.

Just a heads up we will be foaming snow in the engine bay machine, buffing the paint through a compounding stage and finishing the stage of wet vacuuming the interior and using one of those rotating brushes at the end of a drill plan is to sell the

golf

to make way for a van so you can start your new business mobile, for starters, before you Get to work with today's complete guide, which will cover practically a professional detail from start to finish. Can you do me a quick favor and make sure you are subscribed to the channel as it would be a great deal to hit 100k at some point.

Over the next six months, it made sense to start with the details by initially giving the engine compartment the cleanup it deserves. This Golf has driven 234,000 miles and there is a good chance that many of those original models were not

cleaned

in the first place. If we tape any plug or outlet to provide further protection against water damage, generally speaking all of these plugs will be waterproof to some extent, but it is good practice to take this precautionary measure, which will only should take five to ten minutes. That way, you can be a little more carefree when flushing, aside from electrical outlets, the only other things to be careful with are air inlets or air inlet pipes and in the worst case , exposed injectors, which at that point I would consider not using the jet wash at all.

Modern engines are covered in a bit of plastic trim, so only the odd vehicle might raise an eyebrow and make you think otherwise, and it's usually the older ones that flush the bottom of the engine starting at the bottom. bottom of the hood to remove all the dirt and grime without getting too close to the engine itself. Modern engine bays can be washed and jet

cleaned

in the way shown in this video, but I have the appropriate insurance in case something goes wrong, let's hope it doesn't. This is happening today and I am sure that with the following incorporated into the auto foam, all fire hazards will be extinguished quickly.

This rapid fire snow foam stage will give us a decent pre-cleaning solution before jumping in with a much stronger APC and various brushes that we used. The HD built hamburger surface is thinned about seven to one with some of the wheel cleaning brushes to access as many parts of the engine bay as possible. The HD surface is more comparable as a degreaser which is proving to be perfect for today's occasion when the agitation stage is complete and don't forget to do this on the underside of the hood, we want to rinse the bottom of the engine starting from the top to remove all soap residue and grind, don't forget to remove the tape from the electrical sockets and then feel free to close the hood.

Wow, this is where you make them. The next area, which really needs a good cleaning and decontamination, is the wheels and arches. I'm not even kidding, these are absolutely dirty for ease and exposure. As many areas as possible for a thorough and thorough cleaning process, we will remove the wheels. You will need a breaker bar and socket set, as well as lug nut drivers, a jack to lift the vehicle and ideally an axle stand to hit the load, break the wheel nuts and lift the car, place the axle support underneath and then remove the load from the jack, completely unscrew the wheel nuts and take out the wheel, place the wheel in a sturdy place and at this point you should have already prepared your wheel cleaning products and tools A pressure washer is an absolute must for car cleaning tasks.

I can't remember the name of the nil fisk I'm currently using but it has proven to be a solid piece of kit offering a high water flow rate, they sell for £850 and can be purchased from lovely Stafford washing machines. Check out the link below to their website. This machine is my new fixed location machine for the new unit. It will not work with a water tank or generator. I can't take it out in the van, that's where the kranzel k7 comes from, as the big one needs to be plugged into a faucet and a power outlet, so rinse the bow first to remove as much mud and dirt as possible.

It's easier for you to go ahead and rinse as much as you can. Jet washing is certainly your friend at this point, so Adam couldn't find the Golf's rear wheel locking nut, so we'll have to settle for Doing our best with the car up and in the air, Doing this has opened up the arc much better, so we should still be able to do a decent job. The fabric arch line is on the back versus the plastic one on the front, I know which one. I prefer to clean, that's why I chose to make the fronts.

You will find that, over time, the mud from the fabric arch liners will eventually soak through completely and settle in large mounds around the back of the fabric arch lines, depending on how well the car was built, of course and things like age and mileage in an ideal world you would want to remove the arch liners but that won't happen today after the initial pre-rinse which took a bit of time. apply auto foam with built in hammer to the wheel arches to give us some decent initial cleaning agents, so we will follow this with our wheel cleaning tools and then shake while using the surface of the built in hammer.

Use each of your brushes to access as many areas as possible or until the desired finish has been achieved, surfax hd diluted around seven to one is a great product selection for things like engine compartments and wheel arches. It really gives you a clean much more comparable to a degreaser. I highly recommend rinsing the wheel arch when the first cleaning stage is complete to remove product and soil residue. We will then perform a second cleaning, this time using the HD hamburger surface on its own. The first swipe removes most of the dirt. The second hit will do it. finish the last few strokes right, it just requires a little effort, time plus knowledge, tools and products, a vehicle to clean and a place to clean it.

I'm sure you get the gist, you can't complete the entire second cleaning stage with an iron residue remover, which would be beneficial considering the amount of iron contamination that must have become embedded in the wheel arches will be quite substantial. We will complete at least two big strokes of the tile and glue remover because the amount of rotor is substantial. Incredibly dirty wheel that has possibly not been cleaned for many tens of thousands of miles. The front wheel too and let's see how well we can clean it. This has to be one of the worst wheels I've done in quite a few years. time, rinse with the pressure washer to remove as much brake dust as possible, then jump right in with your drop iron product, apply it to the wheel, allow some time to start reacting and then start the agitation process With its brushes, it cannot be denied that the amount of dust adhering to the brake dust on the wheels is quite considerable.

If the owner wanted them to be spotless, they would have to be completely renovated; However, a

deep

cleaning in this case will be sufficient. I repeated the process three times initially for the front wheel and could have done it very easily. For another three times as many, we even joked about putting the wheels in a bath or even a tub filled with a fallout product that would probably work just fine. It took quite a bit of effort to remove most of the brake dust. proved to have been there for quite a while anyway, the wheels look much better after the first stage of decontamination, so let's move on to the next smart tardis car, the tar and glue remover will be used on the wheels, this strong solvent will will use to start reacting chemically with the rotating contamination and believe me there is quite a bit, apply the product liberally and let it sit before working with a microfiber towel, you will need to repeat this process several times to remove everything. last traces, you may need to break up the large ones and then gradually remove them; the adhesive strips from where the old wheel weights used to be need cleaning and again saturating these areas with the product repeatedly and if given time to remain they will be scraped off with something similar to a credit card or loyalty card , a heat gun would definitely be beneficial, but I still managed without it being difficult to see how much time went on each wheel, but considering only the front parts were removed, we probably removed the wheels.

The detailing process finished about an hour and a half after the wheel was vigorously

detailed

, I rinsed it and reapplied the fallout product for a final ferrous fight fight to remove as much of the final fight ferrous contaminants that remained on the surface of the wheel. I am contaminated to begin with and I really want to see if I can improve them in the meantime, the arch was

detailed

with several soaks of the product and cleaned with microfiber towels to remove a lot of contamination from the rotor, three strokes minimum for a Si a vehicle this height is less, there will still be stains there, clean the arch several times and don't be shy with the product, clean the suspension arms and up and around the chassis, there are many hidden places where it loves tar. to hide it, rinse the arch when it's complete and put the clean wheel back on, ready to drop the vehicle again, as it turns out I also recorded us doing the wheel details on the other side of the car, so I'm going to speed up The images so you can see the complete transformation process of this area minus the cleaning of the front wheel as it will be out of scene.

I will play royalty-free music and join you again when the wheels and arches are complete. so first step for the exterior, pre-rinse it thoroughly to remove as much dirt and grime as possible, use the power wash and let it do the hard work. You don't need to spend forever on this point, just remove the loose stuff. regular stuff after the initial pre-rinse, apply a layer of snow foam of your choice. I will use an automatic phone with built-in hammer, two suppliers with a strong solution to help soften the most baked terrain on the road, let the snow phone stay at its maximum.

It's time to work its magic, so for me on this cloudy day it was about seven minutes to give the vehicle a much more thorough post-stay pressure rinse to further remove the more stubborn grime that built up on the surface of the car. the first time. The rinse can be nice and quick to remove loose things, but the second rinse should be much more thorough to help remove stubborn dirt. Wash the vehicle from the roof down; my selection of washing gloves is microfiber. Two buckets wash method as desired and leave the vehicle very clean. Oh, take a secondary wash mitt for the lower areas, including under the front and rear bumpers, under the side skirts and around the inner arches, although you should have already sorted the inner arches inside. wheels off the detail stage, you can also take a detail brush on some APC or even HD surface and clean the hard to reach areas.

I'm not sure why we didn't do it that day, but maybe we could have. Later in the decontamination stages, now that the vehicle is being rinsed, we are left with a relatively clean base. The only contaminants that remain will adhere to the paint in slightly different ways. The tar deposit removal stage is the first to remove those small ones. rotating tanks, apply the product to, say, a quarterpart of the car at a time and begin cleaning with microfiber towels for heavily contaminated vehicles. You may need to repeat this process two or three times. I'm pretty sure I performed it in golf twice.

It dries out very quickly if the sun is out, so if it does, it's best to leave that side of the car in the shade. The next area to sort is behind the license plates. Previous glue residue must be removed before a new plate can be attached. It would be beneficial to install a Tauren glue remover. Let the heat stay for a while with the air gun, then repeat the process a few times and the glue should begin to separate. Wipe and repeat several times and you should be able to remove all the resulting glue. When removing it I will make sure to give it a good compound, then rinse the vehicle, when the torrent glue removal stage is finished I will apply the iron drop product to the entire car in the shade to dissolve any ferrous or metal particles.

On the body we should see the product begin to turn purple as it reacts with pollution against a black vehicle. It's going to be hard to see, but I can assure you it's still there. Rinse vehicle when product has been allowed. stay for the longest time without drying, so it is important not to do this stage in the sun. Take the time to rinse and get out of the gaps and crevices of the vehicle as it takes a while to remove. So I decided to rinse everything. The door closes and seals because they are dirty and, as you will see shortly, the interior could benefit from a snow phone wash, so we are not so concerned if it

gets

a little wet, there is a technique to tilt the jet.

Wash by closing the door to minimize the amount of water entering the cabin, but to be honest, I'm sure you'll be able to find out for yourself. Next is a final coat of snow foam to help extract all the iron product from the gaps and crevices. and we will take advantage at this point and clean the doors and sills with a strong apc and detail brushes depending on the condition of this car inside and out. I imagine it has been several years since the vehicle has been properly cleaned and rinsed. the door is closed, the thresholds and the body are lowered before beginning the final decontamination stage.

Now we are left with a clean looking Volkswagen Golf after the first part of seeing two befores and a not so bad after, here is the interior which looks quite sorry for itself. A complete deep cleanser is coming. No, we lifted the hood and applied the plastic and vinyl covering to improve the appearance of the engine bay. We apply to the surface, then brush and tap all areas. It's as easy as that. Then I will give you the product. some time to linger on the surface before cleaning a few hours later, I set Adam the task of starting the cleaning on the interior, vacuuming all areas first to remove any loose bits of debris, and then moving on to manually cleaning the george tire wet and dry vacuum cleaner is great, check out the link below to purchase one today.

I wouldn't be without mine. I took over after the initial vacuuming stage and demonstrated how to clean the driver's door card, the different materials to deal with, the electrical sockets and the speakers, so it works. has its own risks, the vehicle needs a good cleaning so make sure you use the required amount of product, simply vacuum first and clean with a computer and detail brush, then clean the product from any plastic and fabric surfaces you have . There are different cleaning points: vacuum, shake with the brush and clean more with microfiber towels and then your interior panels will look much better after Steering wheels are a high wear area and require regular cleaning to help maintain their interior . a safe environment a swissvacs detail brush and apc will reach all areas of the wheel and a microfiber towel will clean everything very well a thorough cleaning of the interior means just that, so that no area is missed, the roof pillars abc are thoroughly cleaned and If you want to eliminate the odor, simply replace the APC with the enzymatic odor eliminator product.

We cleaned the engine bay with a little more plastic dressing and a microfiber towel to finish it off. You can blow dry the engine primer after the cleaning process which I'm pretty sure is what we would have done, I just didn't catch it on camera now that the interior has been given a decent initial vacuum and all hard surfaces have been cleaned , let's tackle the rugs first. and then the cloth seats using Valitpro upholstery cleaner diluted about six to one. I'll apply it liberally to the carpet and then remove the old brushroll in the drip. This is the first time I have used the brush and yes, it certainly makes a very good tool for cleaning bad carpets quickly with minimal effort required.

Gets a big thumbs up from me. Complete this crazy brush stage to your liking, but be careful that a strong-bristled brush can completely fluff your vacuum afterwards and you should use a winning wet vacuum if necessary, but not for the carpets in this golf today. Make sure any loose debris has been vacuumed from the seats, including any gaps and crevices, then soak the seat with an upholstery cleaner and start agitating the product with an upholstery brush to get things going add boiling water to the tank in george and start wet vacuuming the seeds pull out all the bad stuff and what you will find when the seats have dried are some much better conditioned ones, the interior received a final Vacuum after cleaning the wet carpet from the front, the windows were cleaned and interior window dials and the plastics were coated with auto finesse spritz.

We finished the interior in a timely manner to begin restoring some shine and shine to the terrible lock paint, starting with the hood. Because it is the easiest to access panel and under lighting we will be able to see how the paint reacts much more conveniently than say on the sides, we have a cloudy effect with the paint and we are not so sure. what it could be, it's hard to say if it's something on the surface of the clear coat or if it's just a general uv discoloration etched on top of the clear coat, my guess is it's uv discoloration, so at this stage of composition I use a microfiber pad on the rupes green medium compound.

I hope to be able to cut away this top layer of clear coat to remove the etching, revealing a much nicer color underneath the defect across the entire hood. It turned out to be quite resistant to remove. It required quite a bit of compound to level the clear coat enough to remove the heavier parts of this defect. I told Adam the do's and don'ts of machine polishing and we both set about the task of putting a pad on to paint the rupas lhr 15 big foot mark ii and mark iii. When using composition, the key is to focus on one section at a time, be happy with it, and then move on to the next.

Each section should be approximately one foot square. This way, we won't feel rushed to finish each panel because to achieve a decent result. Completion time really is the answer. The hood wasn't the only problem area we had to fix. We also had these substantial scratches and brush marks towards the front of the roof. We're not sure what caused them, but I'm told it was when Adam bought the car. There were a lot of things stored on the roof. I'm going to let Adam do what he can with these brands and just told him to go to town on them in the meantime.

I'm going to tend to my side of the roof to get the vehicle on the right path to completion. Adam gave the section a good shot of him and it has certainly improved the area. I moved the camera around to capture some corrective work on the side of the car and boy did I have a few things to remove, it's safe to say the golf has been used and abused over the years but a very fine finish is just around the corner. the corner, just to add, at this point the car was covered in clay before drying, we just didn't capture it. camera working each panel of the car section by section.

I'm going to take the bigfoot rupes and show you where to go so that it works well on all areas of paint to restore the finish. You have to be careful with the edges. but just use your common sense and make the crosshatch pattern to keep your work area nice and tidy and to improve the chances of a uniform finish. I only have minimal time to do my part of the composite, which will be the entire passenger side and trunk, so while we are not detailing a vehicle of significant monetary value where perhaps spending 100 hours perfecting the vehicle would be adequate, We want to get to the point a little quicker with the Gulf to save some of their men. hours brush the pad frequently, especially with a microfiber pad as the fibers need to be propped up regularly, reapply the compound after each section and buff each panel as you go, do not build up too much heat in a given area, But be sure to spend time mastering the machine and the paint, inspect your results as you go to monitor the level of correction being achieved, and if you're satisfied, continue working on the car.

I'll put some product links in the description below for the different pieces of tools and products. kit that is presented today, okay, what's left to talk about the composition stage, so well, there's still a lot to talk about the composition stage, but I'm not going to do that now if you want to learn more about paint correction . and even ceramic coatings, so please watch some of my other videos. I'm going to keep this video a little less complicated since, to be fair, I would normally spend a lot more time composing a vehicle that's due for a paint job, correcting the idea with the golf.

It's just that he's here training, so I still have to run him through most of the detail stages. Now that I've finished my part of the composition, I'm going to go ahead and refine those panels, a white rupee finishing platform this time. with the white rupas finishing polish and after applying a few five piece sized drops of the product to the pad, I will begin to work it into the paint as if it were a compound. You can really go on time with how much time you spend on the machine the longer the better you spend the better the finish will be overall.

I'm going to spread the product on speed 4 and then work it all on speed 6. Do the cross arc pattern where appropriate so you can keep a manageable work area and give that paint some much needed shine. The more time you spend with one of these machines in your hand, the sooner you will become familiar with it and, in turn, you will learn how to get the most out of it. You put in hours of work and have those cars under your belt to increase your experience, knowledge and knowledge, so some other things to cover up the front end needs a new paint job because it's absolutely splattered with many miles of highway, we're not going to paint the front today.

So we will do our best. The rest of the paint received a single stage machine polish with as much time as I could offer. It won't be a show car, so no show car hours will be devoted to it. and technically I'm still training, so I have my excuses. I did my best in the composition and finishing stages to get the gulf paint back to a decent finish, a big improvement on before and our efforts should help turn the tide towards funding. We bought the mobile van for Adam, so we finished the golf training with the Gion Mows application to offer the gulf a two-year, single-coat ceramic coating.

It also comes with Gion Cure which needs to be cleaned off 24 hours later, Adam left his bottle in my unit so that doesn't happen, apply the gion product on an applicator of his choice and apply it to the paint in straight lines where possible. You can use circular motions to help spread the product further and ensure that the selected work section is coated, which should be nothing larger than, say, half a hood, grab your first microfiber towel and then Start gently buffing away the residue. Not so, grab your second microfiber towel shortly after to remove all final traces of excess coating residue and repeat this process. the rest of the panel and be sure to inspect the results as you go, it is very easy to miss some residue from the ceramic coating and when it dries it will be difficult to remove.

We have the rest of the golf covered with a single layer. From Geomos they dressed the wheels with detail spray for the doors, they closed themselves, polished the windows and a hanging JP air freshener was placed inside the plates and the vehicle was given overnight to fully cure.We arrived at the unit the next day and got the golf. Outside to see some final photos and sequences, there is a big difference before and after the three days of treatment. Some value has been put back into the car, so I expect it to sell fairly quickly with plenty of mileage, although at 234,000 I certainly wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot Barge Pole, but I tell a lie.

I just spent three days working on it, other than the interior needs a professional touch or possibly even just the final vacuuming. The car has practically been transformed. I let Adam finish the interior. So judge him and not me, it's safe to say we had a good time during the three days of training. Adam had traveled from somewhere up north, but I don't remember where he learned a lot while he was with me and is now able to get decent information and knowledge to help him establish his own business. Golf was a pleasure and it was good to see everything clean and shiny.

In the end, the exterior front of the unit needed a good blast wash to remove it. all the mud, so I got the job done pretty quickly since, as always, a lot of golf stuff came up. I hope you enjoyed today's video and make sure you are subscribed to the channel so you don't miss out on future content. Be sure to tickle the like button to show some support and feel free to follow me on Facebook and Instagram, just look out for jp details and I hope to see you next time.