Transylvania's Gábor – between tradition and modernity | DW Documentary

Transylvania. A legendary region of central Europe, surrounded by the wild nature of the Carpathians. Once part of Hungary, today it belongs to Romania. Its 20 million inhabitants are EU citizens, including more than half a million people from the Roma minority. 14,000 Roma belong to the "Gábor" ethnic group. Their community is centered around the village of Karácsonyfalva. It has been home to a population of over a thousand Gabor for five centuries. This is our cradle, it is where our ancestors are buried. The Gabor, with a hat and mustache. Our women wear long skirts. We are the Gabor.

We had the unique opportunity to look inside the island world of the Gabor, a people who, largely protected from the outside world, have preserved their customs and rituals for 500 years. According to legend, a Hungarian prince named Gabor granted them the right to stay in the 17th century. Since then, each descendant is called 'Gabor' either by his first or last name. A few meters from the church lives one of the most influential families. Forward. This is my beautiful and dear wife. We've been together for 42 years, I love her. If she loves me too, I don't know. This is my little grandson's wife.

And this is my great-granddaughter. Stop talking about "love" and all that! Let's say we have been together for 42 years, we are Adventists and you have a beautiful family and many grandchildren. Yes, I have a beautiful wife, for 42 years. We have 31 grandchildren! Her grandchildren live nearby. Gabor families are large. By age 35, most women are grandmothers, and by age 50, great-grandmothers. My father bought this land. He then he died. He was inconsolable and I fell into depression. Then I built this house; With no plans, I just went ahead and built it. Gabor Janko is 60 years old. He is mainly dedicated to antiques, following in the footsteps of his father, who marked life in the town like no other.

This is my father's vest. You will see? He is very old. There are even gems on the buttons. They are gold plated. Many Gabor own something like this. You will see? These are my wife's skirts. She keeps buying more. She can never get enough. My son bought me these. They have a gold frame, from Porsche. They are very valuable. I will use them when I go out or not. Sunglasses do not suit our

tradition

. So it would be seen as something shameful. The village school is located nearby. Gabor children attend until they are 14 years old. Girls are removed from school no later than when they turn 10, to protect them from the "dangers" of the outside world.

The fear is that they could be snatched away as brides by a family of lower social standing. Or associate with children other than Gabor, or worse yet, fall in love with a stranger! The outside world represents the greatest danger to the island community of Gabor. Mundra left school after fifth grade. She is now 14 years old and they are going to marry her. Tomorrow is her wedding day. We have been engaged for two years. Before that we had never talked much, but we knew each other because we are related. We both accepted the commitment immediately. The groom's grandparents embark on a final sales tour before the wedding.

They make their living as merchants. Kuca is one of the few Gabor women who has a job. She is always looking for new fabrics suitable for

tradition

al dresses. Her husband sells the typical Gabor hats. Typically, Gabor men travel alone and work as salesmen throughout Europe. They are business savvy and quick to discern a market. Kuca and Gabor sell exclusive products that cannot be found in stores or markets. They go door to door visiting their clients. We, Gabor, call it the “school of life.” There are people who don't go to school, but they are still intelligent. We have learned how to make money, how to live in the world.

The Gabor know how to trade. Every Gabor has it in their blood. Gold is a precious commodity among the Gabor. Bölöni, who of course was also baptized Gabor, is a gold trader. At 45 years old, he is already the grandfather of many grandchildren. He and his Hungarian employee specialize in jewelry worn by the Gabors. I will tell the client that he is almost ready. I belong to the younger generation. In communist times, our families made a living through crafts. They made boilers or distilleries. Then democracy came to Romania and we were able to travel abroad.

We knew what types of products would sell at home. We saw that gold was cheaper abroad. And not just gold. We recovered everything to sell it for a profit. With their business acumen, the Gabors did well after the collapse of communism. They bought real estate and became owners. And they lent money and charged interest. Were others left behind? and they are poor. The nail even has a head. Of course, that's the head. This is the kind of thing I do. They are called boilers. Janko still practices one of Gabor's traditional crafts. He is a tinker. Nowadays, when everything is made of plastic, the skills of it are rarely required.

However, he can be found in his workshop every day. Bölöni, the gold merchant, asks him about the old days. And the scissors and hammers that we see here, you had them in a bag. In a bag. You wore it all day. All day. And what did you shout? “Patching! Repairs” Repairs All types of repairs. And then people invited you in and showed you what needed repair. I even repaired things for 50 cents. And if they didn't have money, then what? They paid in food. Cornmeal, a little bacon, eggs. You had what you needed to live.

Yeah! You were even happier to get food than money. We were satisfied. A family of five receives 200 euros per month in social benefits. This includes gas, electricity, bread and potatoes. An unskilled worker earns twice that amount. But a Gabor cannot work as a salaried employee. Employment is considered "servitude" and a violation of Gabor tradition. That job is left in the hands of Hungarians or Romanians. The Gabor – even the poorest among them – are seen as the aristocratic caste of the Roma. It is the wedding day at the Sarkany family home. Marriage is the largest and most important celebration for the Gabor: ensuring the future of their community.

The Gabor never marry outside their ethnic group. You are only a Gabor if your parents and spouse are also Gabor. Both families here are rich and influential. Bobby, the groom, is 16 years old. He lives here with his father, his mother and his grandparents. Starting today, he will be joined by his girlfriend Mundra. Like all Gabor girls, Mundra was not allowed to leave her home after she turned 12. She has been waiting for this day for two long years. The grandparents close the deal after months of tough negotiations. Two families join together, consolidating rank and wealth. Bobby and Mundra play only a minor role in this transaction.

Wealth and rank are not synonyms. The rank is inherited. Every family wants to marry someone better. And they are willing to pay for it. For the rich, this can cost up to one hundred thousand euros. The wedding gifts are placed in the young couple's bedroom. The bride must be given 10 sets of dresses. Each one costs around 400 euros, the equivalent of a roofer's monthly income. Men are in charge of serving at wedding banquets. Lamb, chicken, salad and fresh bread. First the men, then the women. The marriage ceremony must end before noon. A wedding in Gabor is a purely family affair, without the involvement of the State or the Church.

The bride's ceremony is presided over by her grandmother, her mother and her mother-in-law. Gabor girls never cut their hair. Like Mundra, they all sport braids. But that changes when they get married. Now Mundra will wear her hair in a bun, as married Gabor women have done for five hundred years. By tying his headscarf, Bobby confirms that Mundra is now his wife. No other man will see her hair again. Bobby will learn the business trade from his father and his grandfather and will eventually support Mundra. He will have children, will be the head of the family and, as the youngest son, will take care of her parents and grandparents.

Guests at the wedding party give money to the family as a symbol of respect. Most of it is distributed among the oldest and most distinguished members of the family. Some even get euros. Among women, only older family members receive help. And in the end the only thing that remains is the national currency. If Mundra becomes homesick or the couple becomes unhappy, she can return to her parents. The marriage can also be dissolved if the couple does not produce male offspring. Otherwise, the Gabor newlyweds will be united for life. At two in the afternoon the last guests had already left.

The people did not pay much attention to the wedding. Most people have other concerns. As the sole breadwinners of the family, men bear a heavy burden. The Gabor women stay at home with the children. Even if your family is poor. Recently, an increasing number of local tinsmiths have found work as roofers in Western Europe. An income that helps their families make ends meet, but with nothing to save. Industrial boilers for making jams and distilling liquors. Boilermaking is another of the ancestral occupations of the Gabor, passed down from generation to generation. How long does it take to make one like this?

About ten days. It took me ten days. This one has 550 liters. Gabor Rusu has 68 grandchildren and great-grandchildren. His children also trained as tinkers, but they make their living through commerce. Three of them reside here in the house with their families. My father was the head of the town. My grandfather too. My Gabor brothers say I am too, but right? I will not take on that role! Among the Gabor, problems within the community are solved by the community. In case of dispute, the police consult the village chiefs, the Bulibasha. The gold merchant explains how the Gabor have exercised their jurisdiction for centuries.

We are all human, and if someone is suspected of wrongdoing, but he is innocent, then he swears on the Bible that he is innocent. And the community believes him. Because the Gabor are afraid of being cursed if they lie. Today, the respective families will gather at home and take the oath there. It happened to me once too. I professed my innocence in front of several elders in a live chat on Facebook. If a door is open, you are allowed to enter. It's an unwritten law here. It still feels strange to wear a headscarf. Mundra's first day as a wife.

I received this from my mother-in-law for the wedding. This one is from Kuca, that one too. I got this one from my mother and this one from my father. My mother received this from her mother for her wedding. She gave it to me right before the wedding. It's back to daily life. Grandparents Gabor and Kuca are on their way to their dressmaker. She lives on the outskirts of town and she is Hungarian. Rich Gabor likes to employ Hungarians, whom he considers clean and trustworthy. In turn, Hungarians like Margit enjoy doing business with the Gabors: they pay good money.

He has been sewing for us for 40 years. Do you want me to measure it? Then we will know how to cut it. Each Gabor skirt is custom made. The fabric comes from India. It is very thin and has to be sewn with tight folds. So that men can't look up our skirts, right Margit? My mother-in-law is like a mother to me. Also my father-in-law, they are like parents! We have a very good relationship. It often happens that you don't get along with your mother-in-law. But with us it is completely different, and I hope that with my daughter-in-law it will be the same as with me and my mother-in-law.

I comb her hair every morning. I make the bow and tie it. I take care of her. Shall I wash her clothes? iron them. Since she is still very small, we take care of her and also her child. They don't have to worry about anything. These girls still don't have to cook or clean. When she was as young as Mundra, at 12 or 13, she had to slaughter and gut poultry. There she is ready. Now I will tie her handkerchief. My dear daughter-in-law. Before the wedding she slept next to me. For three nights. Now he sleeps next to her husband.

They are both still small. They sleep like brothers. They hug, they kiss. How should I say it? They are so "side by side." That's how it is with us. I received them from my mother and they are gifts from guests. This is all for Bobby. Good for both of us. And these too. The bags are my mother's. What shoes do you like the most? These. But they are still too big. I got a lot, I like everything, everything was expensive. 500 years ago the Gabor lived in tents. Then in adobe houses and then in stone houses on the outskirts of the town.

Until now, only Hungarians lived in the coveted houses on the main street. But after the collapse of communism, the wealthy Gabors made offers to the Hungarian owners that they could not refuse, and most moved out. Today, the Gabors represent 75 percent of the population of Karácsonyfalva. Antique dealer Janko and his family also live here. If my father said this is blue, then it was blue. If he said white, then he was white. We are five brothers and he taught us everything. Once my father bought two big pigs. The butcher was cutting them and making sausages when two young men appeared. "Come to church with us, Uncle Mitri," they told my father. "I know that you speak in the name of the Lord Jesus," my father responded and followed them.

When he returned, the black pudding and liver pudding were ready. "Eat something!" my mother said. "I will never put pork in my mouth again!" my father responded. "That's what I swore to the Lord today!" My mother almost cried. In fact, she cried. That was forty years ago. HeJanko's father never drank alcohol or smoked again. Like a growing number of Gabor Roma at that time, he had joined the Seventh-day Adventist Church. Grandfathers Gabor and Kuca are also Adventists. Religion did not always play such an important role in Gabor society. Some were Greek Orthodox, others Protestant. In the church they sat at the back, separated from the Hungarians and Romanians.

However, as Adventists, they feel accepted. Here the only thing that counts is the believer's faith in God. Many Gabor only learn to read so they can study the Bible. Faith has changed their lives. They are devoted and disciplined, characteristics that have earned them recognition from the outside world. The sermon is sometimes delivered in Hungarian or Romanian. Most Gabor are proficient in both. And, of course, they also speak Romani. Four times a year they celebrate the Lord's Supper. The climax of the mass comes when parishioners wash each other's feet, as a sign of humility. After the service, family and friends dine together.

The preacher usually participates. Adventists cook on Fridays. On Saturday they are only allowed to heat and serve food. When they are young, women don't have much to say. But over time they gain prestige and influence. Still, men are always served first. And when there are guests, the women sit separately. We always stay in the background. That is our tradition. Like in India... The men are in front and the women are behind. It's the same in bed. Excuse me. The woman is inside, the man is outside. If someone fights, it should be the man, not the woman.

In her new home, Mundra has already learned to iron. When she goes out tonight with Bobby to a MacDonald's, she will wear her favorite Titanic print skirt. Kuca is known for being an excellent cook. She would never think of using canned food. Kuca will teach Mundra everything she needs to know, just as she learned to fulfill the role of her own mother-in-law. But who knows how long traditions will continue to be passed down from generation to generation? These are my hats and those of my grandson Janko. If he needs a white one, he takes it. If you need a brown one, you take it.

He is already married, we brought him a little wife. She is a little gentleman in the house. God gave him enough common sense to learn what is good. He doesn't drink, he doesn't smoke, he doesn't know what stealing is, what prostitution is. Will you also always wear the Gabor hat? Yeah! And your sons? Yes. I'm not very sure. I guess sooner or later the Gabor hat will become obsolete. I know I will use it throughout my life. These young people are open to the world. He still follows me. But what will happen in his own family, only the good Lord knows.

And what happens to the family of the village elder? These children will not be Gabors. They will be called Gabor, but they will no longer practice our professions. It's not about professions, it's about customs. Gabor traditions will not survive. He wants to go to school and continue studying so he can become a police officer. In Gabor Rostás' house, it is the grandparents who feed the family. Whenever they can, they work as day laborers. His young grandchildren go to kindergarten and 12-year-old Zsuzsko goes to school. He is in fifth grade, where he learns Hungarian, Romanian and English.

Her family is not planning to marry her off anytime soon. How many girls stay until eighth grade? I'm the only one in my school. She is the only one. There are boys, but no girls. Without school you are nothing. It's as if you didn't have a baptismal certificate or a birth certificate. As if you didn't exist at all. But when you learn, everything is different. Then you have something in your brain, you can achieve something. And at 18 years old the child can find a job and earn some money. If all goes well, Zsuzskó will be the first Gabor girl in the village to finish school with a diploma and maybe even pursue a career.

And Mundra? Her future seems secure for now. But business is increasingly being done online. Bobby won't be able to learn the tricks of Internet commerce from his father. He will have to face the challenges of the digital age alone. But can he succeed without the necessary education? And what will happen if the Gabor girls assert their career aspirations? How long can the archaic traditions of the Gabor survive? in the globalized world?