Top 10 Pool Shots Amateurs Play Wrong … and How to Play Them Right

Dr. Dave here with the top 10

shots

amateurs

get

wrong

and how to get

them

right

if you want to improve your game. It is important to understand and master these

shots

. Have you ever seen

amateurs

do this or that? If you know and understand it. Basic principles of cue ball control. You should never scratch or even doubt whether scratching is possible or not. Here the natural angle as predicted by the 30 degree rule. The peace sign goes

right

into the pocket, so you just have to make sure the cue ball is gone. rolling the 90 degree rule here the tangent line goes in a good direction so a stun shot is a good

play

here the tangent line goes straight to the pocket so a stun shot would result in a scratch but the natural angle gives a good line to the eight so you just need to roll the ball here here I need to draw the shape on the eight and a scratch is a possibility for draw shots all three times the angle system is useful, it shows where the cue ball will go For a good action shot this close to max draw it's a good option to go straight to the eight line, another option here is to

play

for this line which is about seventy percent of the way from stun to max draw, so aim the 70 tip as low as the maximum. the draw tip position does the job for more information on these systems check out the links in the video description.

Pocket hangers also cause problems for some amateurs, sometimes they aim straight and try to turn it slowly, sometimes they try to stop or take a shot with the same bad result with a draw shot it can be difficult to control the exact angle and amount of effect. I still ended up with a shot at 11 but I almost got hooked here needing a shot at eight. The next option is to go to the railing first. with a gentle speed, but at a slow speed like this, you risk the table falling over. The best play here is to use the draw and trick the bag a little.

A fairly wide range of angles, speeds and amounts of turn will work. Here is another example where a slow roll is attempted. stopping or tying can be bad plays, a good stopping shot will work, but it's much easier to just trick the pocket to either side, there is no chance of zero with either of these shots. Have you ever seen amateurs do this? This is a better play. to use a slower speed and accept a slightly harder shot on the 8, the next shot is more accurate at a slower speed and the effective pocket size is much larger.

Look how far you can be in any direction and still pocket the ball on this table. Obviously this will depend on the geometry and conditions of the pocket, but the pocket is always much larger at lower speed, at high speed. Look at how much smaller the effective pocket size is if you need to use fast speed in a corner pocket. Aim as carefully as you want. aim at the heart of the pocket and don't risk hitting the near spot, which can easily cause the ball to vibrate. Instead, aim closer to the opposite face to give yourself a better chance of pocketing the ball.

The same advice applies to side pocket shots. It is best to aim for the wall farthest from the pocket at low speed. This is not going at high speed again. Avoid the close point of the pocket. Have you ever seen amateurs come up short like this or go long like that? Here's a much better play. to come off the rail, the rail kills the cue ball's speed addition and gives you a much larger margin of error with speed. Using the bands as breaks like this is a powerful technique and is a better option than trying to perfect the shot.

The same rule applies. On shots like this, where trying to perfect the shot can cause problems, you may go too far and a really slow speed can throw the ball further out of line than expected. A much better approach here is to use more speed and go off the rail again, the margin for error. With speed it will be much greater and you will get a more accurate hit to the object ball with less throwing. Another good option here, if there were no other balls on the table that could get in the way, is to simply draw to take a look at the 8.

Throughout the shot this leaves a longer shot at the 8, but there is little that can go

wrong

. One thing that amateurs often underestimate is the power of controlling the cue ball to go to and through the center of the table. It is good to practice this. skill, it is useful to know the 45 degree rule which says that if the cue ball is headed towards the end lane at 45 degrees it will head towards the center of the table, if the cue ball enters at a shallower angle it will not reach to the center. and that the cue ball enters at a steeper angle, it goes beyond the center.

Here's a good example that shows how powerful mid-table positioning from the center of the table can often be. I take a look at each ball on the table. Here's a good example of where it's going. passing through the center of the table is the correct move. Here's a good example where, if you're careless, you can scratch. Going through the middle of the table is a better option here because it allows you to use a safer shot and there is no chance of scratching if you go through the middle of the table from the end lane. Another way to play this shot is to go beyond the center of the table by going towards the end lane at a steeper angle practicing controlling the cue ball through and adjacent to the table. center, you will be a much more intelligent and capable player.

Have you ever seen amateurs do this? Controlling the cue ball with sliced ​​shots in the lane is a very important skill. A good play here is to go straight across the table with a reliable tangent line stun shot. The principle for shots like this is that with the right amount of draw and spin you should be able to drive the cue ball back along the line of the shot from any angle like this. Another option here is to just use near max draw and trust. in the three-angle system, which means that the cue ball will leave the rail at double the incoming angle.

For more information, see the link in the video description. Sometimes it is also important to be able to use internal tracking to move forward and use the effect. intensifying the resistance as per the link in the video description, another option here is to simply cross the table twice, allowing for more speed and the braking effect of the rail. Have you ever seen amateurs try a bench like this instead of cutting the ball here? The cut is much more reliable, you can hit a little full or thin and still pocket the ball now with shots like this where the cut is almost impossible but the cross corner bench is pretty straight and easy.

The bank is the right move. The same goes for the almost straight cross side. banks that should be routine for any decent player. Have you ever seen fans raise their tail much higher than necessary? The problem with this is that if you don't hit the cue ball exactly on the vertical center line, the cue ball will curve. causing you to miss slightly, instead you want to have the cue as level as possible, like this. Now sometimes you need to raise the cue to get over a ball hazard for shots like these from your stance, check your aim in the level position, keep your vision focused.

Tail all the time and rise only as much as necessary to clear the obstacle ball. Also, as always, keep your head, body, and elbow as still as possible during the shot. The same technique should be used for jump shots which also require an elevated tail. Have you ever seen amateurs break groups too fast like this? This is not a good result with the 7 blocking a pocket for the 11 and access to the 13 limited by the 5 and 8. When splitting groups, you should use low speed. possible to get a controlled and desirable result like this now the tee off should be easy have you ever seen amateurs do this trying to follow the end rail to get up the table for the eight when the object ball is so close to the rail the spin topspin? does not have enough distance to accelerate the cue ball and the topspin left on the cue ball after the bounce causes it to continue back to the cushion if the object ball were further from the cushion, the shot works well with the object ball hanging In the pocket drawing is an option, but it can be difficult to get the right amount of backspin, it can also be difficult to get the angle right.

I got this one right and still almost came up short. A much better option here is to simply thin the ball depending on the size of the pocket and how deep the ball is in the pocket, the pocket point could be problematic. Did you see how the tip redirected the cue ball here if the object ball was deeper in the pocket or farther from the pocket? This shot would not have worked if you had ever seen amateurs have no idea if one shot is a double hit file or not all subsequent shots or files, since the cue ball is obviously propelled forward by the double hit.

I'm using slow motion video. from an iPhone to clearly display double hit vowels with a single hit, the cue ball will stop on a stop shot, lag slightly before advancing on the next shot, and not advance at all on a shot shot when the cue ball is frozen on the object ball, you are allowed to hit the cue ball, as it clearly does not involve pushing or hitting twice, even though it may seem otherwise. For more information on how to detect and avoid double hits, check out the link in the video description which offers a wealth of information. resources on this topic, I hope you enjoyed the last video of my top 10 series again.

For more information on all the topics in this video, check out the links in the video description.