Tim Holtz Compares Distress Ink vs Distress Oxides

everyone is buzzing and I'm here at scrapbook calm and I'm excited to share with you many unique differences between

distress

ink and

distress

oxide. You could ask that question all the time, what makes these inks different, so I'm going to share with you some tips and tricks to explain all the properties of both products. Now worn ink and worn rust. These are ink pads but they are very different. One is a dye-based ink and the other is a pigment-based ink, but it is also a fusion because the oxide also contains a little dye, so I want to demonstrate how those properties really affect the overall result, whether that you are stamping or making backgrounds.

Now these inks traditionally come in three by three sized ink pads. They also come in mini size and are great for traveling because you can use them, you can fill a can with lots of different colors, they are great for stamping or making backgrounds but due to the formulation they can live on so little ink pad wear

oxides

one by one though, they can't be used on that little mini ink pad, not yet, anyway, the Ranger chemists are still working on it, but for now let's really demonstrate what I call regulation. oversized ink pads, so generally you can see that when I take the caps off of both of them, they both have that felt layer and that's what's really nice about this ink pad, usually when it's an ink pad pigmented, you have a soft foam, but both These are the same dense felt and that's really what I like because I think they give much sharper detail when it comes to working with stamps.

Now you can see right away, when I remove the caps, that they look different on the surface of the dye. As it happens, of course it will be translucent, we will see through the oxide that that layer of pigment has that will give us some kind of opaque properties, so I will just share with you some of the color samples so that you can visually see how they are different. , so here we'll start with the tint, the ink fade side and you can see this on watercolor cardstock, white paper and you can also see what that color does when we use it on darker surfaces like crafts. paper and you can see that that dye is really affected by your background, whether you're using brown paper or blue paper or any colored cardstock, you really have to be careful when it comes to working with dyes, now when it comes to working with rust of rust. it has this really cool ability to oxidize when it gets wet so you start to get this kind of fuzzy white film on top that is watercolor cardstock, now it's the same color on Kraft so you can see it right away when you put him in that darker role.

On the surface we still have that property of the pigment and we can see the color and that goes for all the other colors, whether we're dealing with reds, you can see here how the fire brick becomes really cool in that background, even when you you put in the craft you get that rust layer, but as we go, I love all these colors, cracked pistachio, one of my favorites, you can see in the watercolor, there's the craft and then there's your version of rust, so we get a little of that creamy layer. milky, but look how it really lights up on that darker paper so let's explain and show you how this all comes to life so I'm going to start with two different papers we're going to work with a white cardstock and one now I'll tell you that when it comes to working with papers, you really want to play with different types of papers, not all papers are the same and some papers really absorb your color a lot more than others, so play with that if you're not having much luck getting it to react or blend change your role.

I prefer to work with distressed watercolor cardstock or any type of craft cardstock, so let's take both inks, we have our dye inks. a couple of different colors here and our

oxides

and we're going to compare both so I'm going to start with just the distressed ink and I'm just going to rub this right in because I think it's really important that you get the visual impact of the color so there's our tint in the watercolor and our tint on the craft, okay right away, like I mentioned, you'll see that color is really impacted and even if we go into something like green like a crack. pistachio there again, you can see how pretty that color looks on white cardstock, it will still show through a little bit, but it's certainly not the same color when you're working on something dark and again, whether it's craft, blue or black, always is we're going to impact that dye ink a little bit differently, well let's go to the rust, the rust because it's a fusion of dye and pigment, we're still going to get that nice color, that color that really coordinates with our dye ink, but because It has some pigment in there when I apply it to something dark you'll see it really looks almost chalky but keep in mind that rust doesn't contain chalk at all it really does have some properties and I love the ability to get it to appear on any surface that you want to print on, whether it's light or dark, there's our pistachio crack and there it's not cracked, so visually when you look at them you can see that there's a completely different difference between working with their distressed dye inks and their rust worn so let's talk about the reaction with water and that's one of the key features when it comes to working with any worn product whether it's ink or rust is its unique ability to react with water and both. whether it's faded ink or rust, they react differently, so I'm going to take that ink again and run it directly onto white cardstock.

This will be watercolor and we'll move on to the craft here so you can see. and the craft is going to be more porous, so you'll see it react a little differently. I'm going to do the same with the rust. I'll just rub it on both surfaces, so right when you apply it. When it's dry, you can see the different colors, of course, but let's react with water here. I'm going to use a relief sprayer and the nice thing about a relief sprayer is the fact that it's a spray bottle that has the ability to spray or the ability to splash if I slowly pull the trigger, so here I'm just going to spray and splash and the reason I like to splatter is that you can see those larger water droplets that really make the ink move differently, but right away you can see that the distress actually absorbs when it gets wet, which means that spreads across the surface, that's what makes it so cold, but immediately between the ink and the oxide you can see the opacity really starts to appear because of the pigment and you can see. here it's starting to rust on the surface of that craft, now you can let them air dry or you can use a heat tool and we can dry them now.

I really like a heat tool. I really like this one from Ranger simply because it doesn't blow away any of my inks or media, if you have a stamping gun you might want to stay a little further away otherwise if you get too close the high fan speed will blow that ink that's why I love working with a craft tool when it comes to drying my inks now again you don't have to dry this with a heat tool you can let it air dry it will do the exact same thing but this just will speed up the process.

Right there we can see that this is dry most of the way. I can go in with just a cloth or paper towel. I can blot the excess ink off my background if I want, but take a look at what you can see here. especially on watercolor cardstock, that's what I love about it, is that it really blends beautifully on that type of paper and you can see that my rust creates that oxidized layer and reacts because of that dye and pigment, so they're both great, just It depends on the effect you get. I want to, but take a look at Kraft now.

Kraft, although this color will appear because it is a different type of paper, does not give that movement to the ink, so that is what I mentioned at the beginning and that was tested on different types. of papers to see what kind of movement your inks will create. One of my favorite things to do with ink, of course, is blend, whether I'm blending a background or bordering a project, so here I'm just going to start with a piece of cardstock and I'm going to grab a mini blending tool. and a mini mixing tool is a wooden handle that has this hook tape on the top and then we'll just take a piece of foam to mix and mix.

The foam has this unique sponge, some people might think it's like a cosmetic sponge, it's not because it's not designed to absorb anything from the medium, it also has this really unique fabric backing that when you throw it right on top of that blending tool , se I'm just going to stay there and that's going to allow me to blend now, when we work with this, we're just going to take the tool and rub it over the surface, we want to make sure we have ink there, but you can see. That this foam doesn't really absorb much ink, it just sits on the surface, that's by design.

Here are some tricks when it comes to mixing. The first thing we do is never start the tool directly on the paper if you do that. You're going to end up leaving a mark and that's really hard to blend. The trick to this is to start from the surface, tilt the tool slightly away from the edge of the paper because if I go flat there again. I'm going to create a sort of drag on my paper, so if I start at that angle it's going to work in a circular motion and I'm only going to use the ink that's on that surface and if you're working on a craft. sheet which is what I'm working on or any type of non-stick surface that allows you to get that ink from the surface onto the paper and if you want more to go in, just make bigger circles and that will continue to blend. and there's a lot of ink here, create it so we can continue blending our entire surface just to get that ink in there and if you decide you want another layer, just come back, the same rules apply, start from the edge. just with those little circles and then it just increases and I'm not using a lot of pressure.

You can use more pressure if you want it to be a little more intense once you have one layer down, but it's that easy. is to mix with worn ink and now worn rust, that's a game changer because it has much softer pigments to get a much nicer blend in the background, so what I want to do is change my foam. Now I will remove it. The blending foams are washable and reusable, so you can simply wash them with soap and water and you can reuse them for other colors or other mediums. I'm just going to take another piece of foam and put that on.

I'll go to the rust. So I'm going to flip this over, we're going to do the same thing, we're just going to slide this right along the edge and I'm going to blend it, but you can see that because the dye and the pigment become a lot. more ink on my surface, which is good, it will allow me to take that color and really blend it. It's very simple, same thing if I take my rust and start here and leave a mark, you can see no. It doesn't leave as harsh a mark as the dye, but it will actually allow me to blend it in, which is a really neat trick when it comes to blending with the rust relief.

Next, we're going to emboss and yes, you can emboss with both. Weathered ink or weathered oxide, either will etch very well and whether you're working on different colors of paper or cardstock, I want to show you a few tricks when it comes to using them with embossing powders. Now, ink or rust, remember these will be your colors. so when I'm hard embossing I prefer to use a clear embossing powder this way I can see the color of the ink I'm embossing with but in this demo I'm just going to use the oxide so I have a stamp just on my stamp platform I'm going to ink it when you use that pressure, you can hear it.

I'm actually quite aggressive when it comes to inking a stamp. I want to press down several times, some people slide a finger there. a little gentle, I'm going to make sure I have ink on my stamp and then I'm just going to do that twist with good pressure, you really want to make sure that we have a good impression, I'm just going to take that move away. aside and I like to work on a piece of scrap paper, this way I can take my embossing powder and apply it liberally. This is going to take back all the excess, so you better go in and actually cover that image and I'm just going to take this, pick it up, give it a little touch, you don't necessarily need to move it, you just need to touch that and you can see that the image is covered in dust, we'll put this back in the jar.

Pick that up, put it aside, otherwise, well, I'll make it go everywhere and put it there and we'll talk about stamping. It's a great trick when it comes to making any type of stamping, whether using a craft tool. or an embossing gun if you can lift the surface off the actual work table, that will allow the heat to pass through the paper and it will emboss in half the time, but it will also prevent the paper from curling too much sowhich can be very close, start heating that up and look at that and see how the colors come out with great detail, great color, great dimension just using my distressed or rust or embossed inks, so there's so many things you can do with distressed ink and distressed oxide and another interesting thing is to use it for watercolor so with the ink pads of course there are increments and these increments are designed to fill your ink pad so we have one for distressed ink which will be your translucent tint and so Of course, there is a reinker for worn rust.

Now the tools you will need for watercolor will of course be a permanent waterproof ink. The pad can be any brand you want as long as it is waterproof and permanent, and they will usually tell you that right on the label or on the lid and then a brush of water. I love using a water brush. You certainly can. watercolor with a brush in water, but why when you have a water brush? So the thing about a water brush is that there are different types in different styles. I like the detail because it has a very detailed point and it will be a water that feeds itself. brush once you fill this barrel with water, it will simply feed water continuously.

Another style of water brush, of course, is a flat water brush and this one is really cool because it will allow me to do blended backgrounds if you like to do skies or anything. kind of sunset themes, but this one also allows you to remove this top. I can grab this ferrule, I'm just going to break it off and you can see that spreads those bristles out to make a big round water brush, anyway and this is I'm just going to plug it back in and we can use it, but for the demonstration I'm just going to show you the details.

Now what I've done is I've taken the reinker, so let me clarify this just a little bit. a little, just take this off now, the reinkers I've actually used on an ink palette, an ink palette is really good because it's sold empty but it has a hinged lid that will protect the ink from getting dirty or covered in dust. Ready is this half. I just used different colors of weather ink and I actually put just a little drop of ink in there, the rust of course is this half. Now the oxide you have to shake this reinker because remember that is the dye and the pigment.

I need to make sure this is mixed before I put that drop of ink on the palette. Now, once you have applied the ink on the palette, the ink will never dry on that palette. You can leave it for weeks, months, years and at any time. go and put a wet brush on it, it's going to react well, so let's do some watercolor. I'm not going to color everything, I'm just going to do a little demonstration so you can see the difference when it comes to water coloring. either one, so I'm going to start with my brush just to make sure there's some water in there and I'm going to go in and dip this now.

If you are making a set, you can label these colors. I can walk around here with a permanent marker. I just like to be surprised. I can identify which color is which, but I'll only share it when you come in and color, check it out. Okay, we can add that. water color right there and you can see how it comes together and I plan on cutting this out anyway, so a lot of times I'll work with a larger sheet of paper so I can see what colors I want to work with, you can even do something like that. double dip in different colors if you want to create your own little mixes either way works now clean with a water brush I like to clean just on a craft sheet just to clean that I don't like working with a paper towel or cloth, of otherwise it will absorb the water from your brush, very easy, so let's go in and pick up a little bit of that color, let's mix it up a little bit, a little bit clean, maybe you like to change to a different color, I can pick it up and just draw that color so Pretty simple and you can go through it and complete it and you can mix it up however you want.

Let's talk about coloring with rust, that's where it gets really interesting. Remember that distress oxides react with water and oxidize. when they get wet, so take a look, when I go in and touch that wet brush right on that rust, you can see it rust right on the brush now, when you go in and add that color, look it's almost like paint, but it's still an ink and it gives you that really cool fluid look and we can do both, so here I can go in and get a little bit of that rust off and I can always go back to my ink and I can pick some up. the color mixes a little bit here just to muddy that creates a nice little distress look and I can mix both if I want so here I'm going to get just that little mix that little mix of not only the dye but also that colorant pigment to the water with distress ink and distress oxide, so I hope you learned some of the cool tips and tricks when it comes to working with distress ink and distress oxide.

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