The Secrets Behind Spraying Glossy Paint on a Hood!

In this episode of Pain Society, we'll take a closer look at how to apply a beautiful layer of clear coat and how to choose the right clear coat for the job. We will also discuss the importance of maintaining a moist edge. The results. in the end it will surprise you, you will surely learn something about what is happening to everyone and welcome back to another episode of Paced Society. The channel where learning doesn't stop when the video ends. Now we've all been here before, where we lay down. a nice coat of base and we are ready to clean and this for some people can be the scary part.

I feel your pain, you left your clear coat, it has fish eyes, it has orange peel, it is uneven and you can really feel bad about yourself. Quick, in this video we'll teach you some tricks to help you apply a smoother coat to your

hood

. Now that this is a

paint

ing society, a group of people here to learn about

paint

ing also means that I have many professionals. below in the comments, so be sure to leave your tips and tricks for everyone so we can share them and also learn from you. What we are going to teach today is to ask ourselves what edges we are going to address and how tight our passes should be. what our first coat and our second coat should look like as well as expectations now when I use the words actual expectations what I mean is we're going to have a beautiful finish on this

hood

that will still have some dirt and debris here and there that It will require wet sanding and polishing, don't be discouraged, you will have some of that in your paint job, even in a professional setting.

The tips and tricks we are about to go over will help eliminate it. Now the number One misconception is that I get dirty when I spray clear, but what you guys don't realize is that the dirt was always there to begin with. What they want is a very smooth base coat, so if your base coat is not smooth, you can go ahead and sand it with 800 grit and then give it another coat or two and it helps smooth it out and it will be much better for your cleanup. Your tack cloth should slide over the surface.

Do you see how it slides? Yes. I don't prefer to use a new anti-static cloth. I like an anti-static cloth that has been used several times and is still clean. I turn it around and that way it's not too aggressive, so that's number one if you don't have any. a cool and smooth base coat, you will never have a cool and smooth clear coat, a clear coat will only highlight the flaws underneath so you will feel it once again if you feel a lump or something you have, go ahead. yourself some 800 grit maybe a thousand. I just check that area or if it's a hole all over the hood go ahead and smooth it out and then when you're ready to clean we'll start there now most of your orange peel is This will come from whatever you decide to use as clear you have You have to be informed that you use the painter, so when you walk into that paint store you can't expect the salesperson to know exactly everything that some of them have painted before some of them just are. sellers, okay, you are the ones who work every day in the heat, you are the painters, so what you need to understand is that it is very hot and even in 70-80 degree weather it is not a bad idea to use it. slow so you are already defeating yourself if you are using the wrong clear coat for the job, some clears will stay open longer and that will help soften the feel a bit and some are fast so make sure you keep going and choose the right one, of course, check the technical data sheets of all the clears and do your homework here.

I'm using our slow to pack auto erase, it's phenomenally clear and will be able to soften even a touch after we spray it, so let's talk about our passes. Right now when we're on a hood the number one way to make me cringe is to start with the clear coat in the middle of the hood, that's something and I never want to do it, the reason is you lose the wet edge and one of the edges . is that we keep the end of our pattern constantly wet, so for example, when I spray here, the wet edge is where the pattern ends, we carry that wet edge, the wet edge went over the top, it's okay if we start in the middle, okay and If you come up here, the wet edge in the middle of the hood has already started to dry, so when we clean this side, what happens is the nuclear doesn't blend with that old one and you'll have a dry fuzzy area , TRUE? here, so make sure once again to keep it consistent across the entire panel.

Now this is an SUV, it's not the tallest in the world, but in the middle the hood towards the windshield is going to be strong. This is not like a base coat. we don't need to spray it consistently the same way if we need to in the middle of the hood, we can actually go the other direction just to get something there for our lacquer to adhere to, let's go ahead and mix up some lacquer and I'll start showing you what. what we mean by our wet edge: a close overlap and our consistent passes are fine, so now I'm going to show you some wet edge passes.

I'm around 33 psi on a ws 400 that I want to put on. It's half wet, which means I don't want to soak it all the way through, but I want to get a nice consistent layer there, there might be a little bit of peel there. I'm not worried about that, that's fine, so we just spray this. It overlapped about 90 percent, which means we're covering about 10 percent of new paint as we move across the panel. This is the wet edge. We want to continue moving this wet edge all the way, so we need to reposition it. It's in the middle here you may have to go back and forth this way we'll see what we have to do the first layer is put on now my intention is not to mislead you many things look great on camera but up close you really want to take a look at it that's happening, so on our first layer we have some areas that are not perfectly slick, we have a little bit of dirt, okay, but we can go over that with our second layer and just give that second layer a touch. layer and it will smooth it out very, very well now the goal of the game is not to hit it to cover all that gunk so that it's nice and smooth, we don't want to do that because then we can We take care of troubleshooting enough and then whatever is left, we're just going to wet sand it and polish it, that's the purpose of sanding and polishing, okay, but we're going to get it as clean as possible, so let's take a look at what we have.

In this area we have a clump of some dirt and some dry shell. I'm not sure if it's just picking it up. We also have a little bit of dirt here in this area and now on the other side of the hood we have a little bit of shell, it's not consistently flat but I'm okay with that right now. I just want to put the first coat on so we can put the second coat on, really really good. Another question I'll get is Brian. How long should I wait between coats? Well, you really need to do yourself a favor and check the technical data sheets.

What this clear clear requires is different than what your clear will normally use, although you're in and about 10 minutes really let the solvents apply. take out the solvents or what's in the paint and if you apply that second coat too quickly, okay, both terrible, too quickly, too quickly, too soon, too much, um, you're going to go ahead and catch all that solvent that's trying. to loosen it up nice, then you put that second layer there, it has nowhere to go, so it's pretty much like a blanket there, so once it dries, it's going to explode everywhere, okay, and that's what it's called a container of solvent, that's how we do it. make sure you don't have pop solvent, making sure your base dries enough, maybe 20-30 minutes okay, making sure your clear is drying, has evaporated in 10-15 minutes or whatever your technical data sheets and then apply it appropriately. now that we're about to apply the second coat, you'll see me go a little slower and I'm going to apply a little more in my technique when I spray products, I want to be about four or five inches away. the panel on that second layer and we actually lay it down, it'll actually slide in and then whatever's left we just polish it off.

Now look what happens when we apply a good second wet coat on a much smoother factory finish with barely any orange field just as it was supposed to be from the day it came off the assembly line now if we look closer, we will find a little piece of land here and there, this is totally normal, okay, we have some land in this area, some land. in that area that just didn't get buried, okay, but from a hole it looks really good and I'm really happy with it now, couple questions, I'll get it, Brian, can I put on a third layer?

I do not recommend it. because usually technical data sheets will only recommend two, that's all we really need; However, if you intend to polish with wet sanding, you can apply a third coat, just be sure to give it even more time, maybe 20 minutes or so before the third coat really allows for those solvents. to get out of the first one in a second, but again, I don't suggest it, it usually just gets you in trouble, now it doesn't stop here, the first thing you'll probably want to do is grab your hood and put it outside to get out. dry everything that way, no more dust will fall, that's the worst thing you can do.

All you're doing from there is trapping the top surface again and not allowing those solvents to pass through. We want to keep it very open and the only way to do that is we don't want to put too much heat on it. I'm not even going to bake it now. I'm going to let it sit for a good 20 minutes. Anyway, it's about 95 degrees in the cabin. the solvents come out and then I'll bake it at a very low temperature, maybe 135 degrees for about 30 minutes and we'll go from there, this is how I do it and this is how it keeps its shine, we'll move on. and bake it and we'll take a look at it once it's all done so we take the hood out of the oven and it's got this amazing shine, but you can already tell we started doing a little bit of wet sanding and I could tell you.

Nothing is perfect right now and that's the purpose behind this video to show you that even at a professional level there will be some little bits of dirt here and there. What we did was we put all the little dirt tips together and We went ahead and sanded them with mm so let me show you what they look like now the dirt tips were very, very small, but it's our job to make sure that some work is removed now They come out a little cleaner, others come out a little dirtier, but in their work the bees are as transparent as possible and show you that this is normal on flat surfaces.

However, the main goal of the video is to show you how to spray that hood that way, you have a nice thick one. layer of clear coat there so you can wet the sand and polish if I had sprayed it and there was a lot of orange peel, it would be a lot harder to polish and that's not what we want, we want to be able to do it just by coming. to the surface and sand it and polish it really good and this is not a polishing video so we're not going to go into too much detail on how we do it but we'll just show you a quick time lapse of what we do. so the purpose of the video once again guys don't be discouraged she has a hoodie she came out a little dirty this is normal stuff we do on a professional level don't feel bad about it so go ahead I'll make it better.

Pick it up and we'll show you what it looks like in the end and until then it's Brian from Paint Society reminding you not to overthink it, it's just paint, let's get to work.