Swiss Alps

-Hey, it's Rick Steves, back with more of Europe's best. I'm announcing some of my favorite mountain destinations. They are the classic corners of the Swiss Alps. Thank you for joining us. ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ Switzerland attracts travelers from all over the world for its legendary mountains. In this episode, we won't see big museums or big cities, just the stunning alpine beauty and the rich, resilient culture of the people who live here. It is a land of spectacular mountains linked by picturesque train rides and spectacular hikes. Famous peaks can be accessed by exciting ski lifts, including the highest in all of Europe.

We will enjoy alpine life, from exploring glaciers to making cheese the old-fashioned way. Switzerland is small: only half the size of Kentucky. Although it has large cities, most of the country is rural and mountainous. We started in Zermatt, at the Matterhorn, took the Glacier Express train, arrived in Appenzell and finished in the Berner Oberland, taking the ski lifts to Jungfrau and Schilthorn. Zermatt, at the foot of the Matterhorn, was built essentially to enjoy the Alps. It is very popular with skiers in winter and hikers in summer. With its numerous lifts, it is a springboard for countless unforgettable trails and viewpoints.

The weather is good and we will take a train to one of the most spectacular views in all of the Alps. The Gornergrat cog railway has captivated visitors since 1898. The ride includes panoramic views, first of the city of Zermatt...then of the iconic peak that draws so many to this region: the Matterhorn. The train climbs steeply towards the highlands. It takes us above 10,000 feet, where we reach the end of the line. On the other side of the tracks, an old hotel solidly crowns the Gornergrat ridge. Great views stretch in all directions. The stunning views of the Matterhorn demand hikers' attention, but there's more.

Monte Rosa is actually higher than the Matterhorn. In fact, at 15,200 feet, it is the highest point in Switzerland. And a sheer 1,000-foot drop below the platform extends toward the mighty Gorner Glacier. It seems like a lot of my favorite hikes start in the middle of my favorite lifts or train rides. Getting off this train halfway, I'm in for a sensational but easy walk. Getting to these exciting places with so little work and so far from the crowds, I feel like I'm cheating... and I love it. There's something about the Matterhorn, the most recognizable mountain on the planet, that draws people in.

It is a dangerous mountain to climb. Each year, while several thousand manage to reach the summit, around a dozen die in the attempt. And with global warming, the permafrost that keeps it solid is melting, making falling rocks a new hazard. Around Zermatt, to enjoy views of the Matterhorn from every angle, there are dozens of ski lifts and hundreds of kilometers of trails. As in all the Alps, handy signs indicate where you are, what the altitude is and how long it takes to walk to different points. ♪♪ Zermatt, on both sides of its small river, is a small city of 6,000 inhabitants with a large tourist industry.

It has more hotel beds than residents and they are often fully occupied. Almost everyone makes a living in one way or another thanks to tourists, who flock to catch a glimpse of the summit. Around two million visitors arrive by train each year. Cars are not allowed. Electric carts circulate silently among pedestrians. The city is a group of more than 100 modern chalet-style hotels, with a well-organized and well-kept infrastructure for summer and winter sports. And this herd of traditional black-necked goats, which parades through the city every day, has had enough of selfies and is heading to the barn.

If you explore a little, you can discover pockets of traditional charm. 200 years ago, Zermatt would have looked more like this: little more than a collection of humble wooden cabins. Zermatt strives to keep its visitors entertained, and the tradition-loving locals seem happy to do just that. ♪♪ ♪♪ - ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ -From the city of Zermatt, an imposing cable car takes us to the top of a peak called "Little Matterhorn". Prices are high, as the community has invested hundreds of millions of dollars in its ski lifts in recent years. These lifts are absolutely state of the art and just experiencing them is worth it.

At 4000 meters, it is the highest cable car station in Europe. While the view of the Matterhorn from this angle is not an iconic postcard profile, the views from this observation deck are stunning. On a clear day, the Alps fill the horizon with all their splendor. ♪♪ Zermatt train station is busy every morning as travelers spend a day of their vacation on one of the most scenic train journeys in the world, traveling through southern Switzerland on the Glacier Express. Designed to maximize your tourist thrills, this journey features a masterpiece of railway engineering. The Glacier Express train line crosses 290 bridges and viaducts and goes through 90 tunnels in 8 hours while connecting two of the main alpine resorts: Zermatt and Saint Moritz.

More than a quarter of a million Alpine lovers travel on this train every year. People relax and enjoy large windows for wider views. The landscape develops as the train travels through the Swiss landscape. Some of Europe's great rivers originate in the glaciers high above, flowing into both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Now let's move on to some of the amazing Alpine peaks to learn about the Swiss and their heritage. This is Appenzell: a country of cowbells and suitable for storybooks. According to legend, the devil flew over these hills with a sack full of houses. A sharp spike tore a hole in the sack and many chalets were scattered across the field.

To this day, the farms and villages remain widely dispersed and the canton of Appenzell remains one of the most traditional cantons in Switzerland. The Swiss are famous for their independence and historically the greatest threat to their independence was the Habsburg Empire of Austria. In the Middle Ages, this region was fragmented into small cantons or states. In the 13th century, three of these cantons united to fight against the Habsburgs. In 1291 they established their independence and Switzerland was born. This union eventually grew to include 26 cantons and the country we know today. Switzerland is unique among its European neighbors.

It is not in the EU and, instead of the euro, it uses its own currency. This stubborn pride and the consequent survival of local traditions is something that makes Switzerland such a rewarding place to visit. The strength of that tradition is felt here in the city of Appenzell. Surprisingly, it was not until 1990 that Appenzell women were granted full voting rights. This has been the capital of the canton for 400 years and many of the buildings date from that time. ♪♪ The independence of Switzerland distinguished it from European high culture. Back then, royalty or the Roman Catholic Church was needed to pay for great cultural achievements.

So, instead of seeing many grand palaces and cathedrals, today travelers see Swiss culture on a small, personal scale. The folk museums here offer an intimate look at Appenzell's humble rural culture, with rooms that replicate everyday life, from where they raised their families to where they worked. In this 400-year-old building, the ceilings are low and the floors creak with century-old beams. Simple folk art shows the importance of cows and the ritual of taking the herd to the high grasslands for the summer and coming down for the winter. This room shows the life of the shepherd in the high Alps, who spent the summers alone, milking cows and making cheese.

These decorative cowbells awaited the festive day when the flock would descend from the high meadow. It was a world of wood. In the carpentry workshop, milk pails were made from maple and spruce, soaked in water to make them flexible, tightly assembled without nails, and then artfully carved. The carpenter's bedroom reflects the pride he had in his profession. He earned enough to afford finely painted furniture. This cloakroom dates back to 1817. ♪♪ Whether by train or car, mountainous Switzerland has an excellent infrastructure and in just a few hours you can reach almost anywhere in the country. The Bernese Oberland is a particularly picturesque region.

Its Lauterbrunnen Valley, which extends south of the city of Interlaken, is a wonderful springboard to some of my favorite experiences in the Swiss Alps. The Lauterbrunnen Valley, with its vertical sides and flat bottom, is U-shaped, a classic example of a glacier-shaped valley. While the main town, also called Lauterbrunnen, sits at the bottom of the valley, the neighboring towns hang from cliffs above. "Lauterbrunnen" means "noisy waters", an appropriate name. Waterfalls cascade from the cliffs along the valley. The Staubach Falls, one of the highest in Switzerland, fall almost 300 meters. ♪♪ The valley, with its riverside paths, traditional cottages and cheering chorus of surrounding peaks, is a magnet for nature lovers.

High above rise the frozen peaks of Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger, named after the legend of the young maiden, Jungfrau, protected by the monk, or Monch, from the evil ogre, or Eiger. And perched on a hill between two of those mountains is Jungfraujoch station, and that's where we go by train. From the valley floor, a cog railway takes tourists and mountaineers alike on this exciting journey. As we gradually ascend, the views continually develop. ♪♪ ♪♪ Finally we arrive at Kleine Scheidegg, a railway crossing at the foot of the peaks. For more than a century, this has been the starting point for climbers attempting to scale the Eiger's sinister north face.

Kleine Scheidegg has souvenir shops, abundant food for hikers and rustic 19th-century hotels, a reminder that tourism is nothing new here. With the social media craze these days and millions of people from countries with emerging economies now able to afford their dream trip to Europe, famous destinations like this can get very crowded. Do what you can to minimize crowds. Arriving early or arriving late...it really helps. Continuing our journey towards Europe's highest train station, the ingenuity of Swiss engineers becomes evident as we board the railway they built in 1912. Remarkably, our train traverses the Eiger on our climb to the Jungfraujoch.

Think about it: the Swiss drilled this tunnel through solid rock. It is four miles long. This train is smooth and they made it 100 years ago. Because? To show off your engineering skills and celebrate nature. Halfway there the train stops in front of the panoramic windows. While expert climbers can step out here into an unforgiving world of ice and air, tourists get a thrill simply marveling at the icy views. Continuing through the tunnel, the train's cogwheels earn their keep. You will emerge at 11,000 feet: the Jungfraujoch. Spectacular views of majestic peaks stretch as far as the eye can see.

Cradled among these giants, you will understand the timeless charm of the Swiss Alps. The Jungfraujoch is like a small tourist complex perched on the ridge of a mountain. From the highest viewpoint you can see the Aletsch Glacier, which extends about 16 kilometers to the south. Although it is shrinking with global warming, it remains the longest glacier in the Alps. The air is thin and people are in a giddy mood. The station is a labyrinth of shops, restaurants and entertainment. In fact, a tunnel has been dug through the glacier to an ice sculpture cavern, an especially big hit for visitors to lands where ice is a rarity.

Outside on the glacier, people enjoy the scene. From here, many venture even higher, as a snowy trail leads to more mountainous thrills. But for me, I'll call it a good one and savor the feeling of accomplishment I get from climbing to 11,370 feet before lunch. ♪♪ The Berner Oberland has something for everyone. Part of the fun and much of the expense of enjoying the Alps is riding the various lifts. Funiculars allow hikers to gain altitude quickly and easily. This elevator actually allows visitors to go up to the rooftop, a great way to more fully appreciate the amazing beauty of the region.

And once again, it's fun to get away from the crowds by getting off at a midway station and going for a walk. There is a special camaraderie with people who actually get out and walk. And in moments, you'll be sharing the experience with other hikers and enjoying the Alps in a way that many miss. Cities like Murren were developed to welcome nature-loving tourists. They adapt to all your needs. You can ride through traffic-free centers and cities are springboards for a popular option: the electric bicycle. While service roads in higher areas may be closed to regular traffic, e-bikes are more than welcomeand they make you look fitter than you really are.

Remote towns may be out of reach of your car, but they are all accessible by several elevators. One of my favorites is the idyllic town of Gimmelwald. The village, founded precariously in the Middle Ages on the edge of a cliff, was one of the poorest places in Switzerland. Gimmelwald works together like a big family; In fact, most of the hundred or so residents here share one of two surnames: von Allmen or Feuz. My friend Olle, a long-time village schoolteacher, loves to show me around. This is the oldest house, from 1658. And the woodwork is usually not painted, just sun-bleached.

Originally hay above and cows below. For generations, families have lovingly tended their gardens. They are still trusted to put food on the table, and this one comes with an artistic side. Maintaining their traditional customs, farmers here make ends meet only with the help of subsidies from the Swiss government. They complement this by working the ski lifts in winter. Modern tourism has also contributed to the local economy. The Gimmelwald Pension's terrace restaurant is filled with happy hikers at dinnertime, excited by the memories they made from today's hike. I've been coming to Gimmelwald all my life and it never gets old.

With the world changing so quickly, I find it comforting to know that there are places like this that still embrace their traditions. The dairy industry is traditional here. Gathering grass for cows to overwinter on these steep slopes is labor intensive. Each family fills the silos with enough to feed a dozen cows. But we are here in summer and the cows are in the high Alps enjoying a diet of fresh grass and flowers. Some of the most precious cheeses in the world are still traditionally made with its milk. We joined a small tour group organized by the town's tourist office.

Of the countless visitors to this valley, these travelers took the initiative to enjoy this intimate look at local culture in action. Once the milk is heated to the proper temperature, the cheesemaker, using both his teeth and his hands, masterfully removes about ten kilos of curd from the bottom of the cauldron. Then drop the soaked cheesecloth into a circular mold. Press quickly to remove as much liquid or serum as possible. As the moisture is removed and the aging process begins, a wheel of wet curds becomes a wheel of Alpine cheese, often smeared with brine and stored on shelves in a shed like this for up to two years.

In the highlands, I also enjoy the opportunity to listen to traditional music, and up here, along with yodeling, that means the long, legato tones of the alpine trumpet. The alpine trumpet has a range of almost 3 octaves. But since it does not have valves, it is limited to the same notes as a cornet. Used throughout the Alps, this horn has played a role in this culture for 500 years: to call cows from the pasture to the barn to milk them, as a way for high meadow shepherds to communicate with the people of the valley, and even as a call to prayer for remote valleys. ♪♪ Oh!

And we have time for one more Swiss summit. High above this meadow, a peak called Shilthorn emerges from the clouds. And in Swiss style, a modern cable car, the Schilthornbahn, takes visitors effortlessly to its summit. In the Alps, although the valleys may be covered in clouds, the peaks can be brilliantly sunny. Start early: the summits are usually clear in the morning and then become cloudy. The 10,000-foot summit of the Schilthorn awaits skiers, hikers and tourists, both winter and summer. Capitalizing on its role in a James Bond film, this station awaits with a revolving restaurant, perfect for spies sipping their 007 martinis.

Meanwhile, on the panoramic terrace, families contemplate the peaks while others get excited at the 360 degrees of alpine splendor. For me, the majesty of the mountains is easier to appreciate in my private position. As always, try to get away from the crowds: be alone to savor an unforgettable moment. Switzerland may be a small country, but its mountains are stunning, and we hope you enjoyed this look at some of its best views. Thank you for joining us. I'm Rick Steves high in the Alps. Until next time, keep traveling. -♪♪ Knowing that there are places like this that embrace his traditions - ...makes me want to answer the phone. -Oh ho! -Ah! ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪