Singer vs Brother Serger Comparison Video

Hello everyone, it's me Roxanne and I'm back with a new

video

with Pro Finnish

singer

Serger and

brother

10:34 D Serger. In this

video

I will compare feature by feature and share my thoughts on each of these entry levels. search engines, so stay tuned before starting this

comparison

video. I want you to know that I will start with the Finnish Pro

singer

serger

sharing my thoughts on a particular feature of that machine and then I will immediately move on to the

brother

and share my thoughts on that same feature of the 10:34 D before starting with the video portion of this

comparison

.

I put together these three slides comparing each machine feature of the Singer Pro finisher and the 10:34 D, the first area I'm into. In my comparison I will focus on the Singer Pro finish, where the needles are inserted. This is the screwdriver that comes with the Singer Pro finish and I would like you to notice that each of the needles, needle A and needle B, have separate points. screws to insert, I like it better than the brother, but I would also like you to notice that there is a closed channel here, so you have to feel when you insert the needle to make sure it is fully inserted into the shaft.

Now stop. I show you the brother, this is the same area as the brother 10:34 D and what I would like you to notice here is that both needles are held by the same screw that fits with this little Allen wrench that came. With the machine I find it a little more difficult to control both needles since a screw holds both needles, but what I like most about this machine is that I can see both tops of the needles and know that both needles are inserted all the way up. on the shaft, which is its correct position, unlatching the upper blade on the Singer Pro finish is very simple and easy, this is the upper blade, you press with your left hand, turn with your right and the blade comes out. of the way to sew Here I am in front of the

serger

brother and this is the knife that I will show you how to unhook the first thing you have to do is make sure that the needles are in their lowest position and then the next thing you will have to do is push the lever towards the back of your machine which I'll show you in a second.

As I raised the needles, you'll notice that the cutter is now stationary and here's the lever I moved back. to unhook the knife, this is the back of the finished Singer Pro serger and I wanted to point out a couple of features here, number one, these holders under the cones don't hold the thread as firmly as the brother does, but a couple Other things I like about this machine is that when you lower the number one telescoping thread guide, each channel is open and you don't have to put the thread through a hole, you just slide the thread over the top and I like it to snap down .

Each thread guide fits into the combs, so if he moves it, his threads won't fall to the floor. Here is the handle that Singer Pro finish has integrated into its design when you move your machine with this handle, be very careful putting it back into position or it will cause tension problems when you are sewing. Here is the back of the Brother overlocker and I wanted to show you the cone holders that are on this machine. They are larger and seem to hold the cones much more steadily than on the Singer machine. Now, when guided by the telescoping thread, this top is plastic and has a round circle built into the hole that falls into each of the cones, but you don't need to hold it. the cones in place as they are very stable, but what I want you to notice is that each of these thread guides is closed and on the singer they are open, so you should read them instead of just placing the thread on the higher now.

The next thing I want you to notice is that behind the threads there is a handle built into the plastic casing and there is no concern here, as on the singer, of leaving the handle up and possibly causing confusion with your tension. One thing I noticed about both of them. These machines, like the extension tables, were a bit difficult to remove. This is the Singer Pro finish and there's a button underneath that I'm pressing up with my left hand and with my right hand I'm pressing left at this location. It comes off and this is the button you were pressing up.

Another thing I liked about the Singer Pro finish is that there is a cavity here to store any of the accessories that might have come with your machine now so they don't come back into use. Free arm feature, simply slide it back into position, give it a tap and you're done. Here's brother serger and removing the free arm was tricky the first time, but it seems like the more I removed it the easier it got. I just give it a little tap here and it comes off very easily to use the free arm feature. Now when you put it back into position, simply slide it in and gently press it into position.

Here is the presser foot lifter on the Stinger. The professional finish is in the traditional location on the back, behind the presser foot. The nice thing about this is that when you lift it up, you can lift it up so you have a little more room under the presser foot. Look how I lift it up and you get a little more room on the bro, the presser foot lever is located on the right side of the machine which I thought was a great feature, when you push it up it lifts the presser foot and then you also have a little more room if you continue to push it back, so I would say there is a little more room between the presser foot and the needle plate on the brother that has been on the Singer Pro finish, as well as having the lever on the right side as a right-handed person.

I thought this was a great feature, one of the most important things when comparing or selecting a serger for your personal use is to actually see it like this and know what it sounds like because seekers tend to be a little louder than a normal single. needle sewing machine, so right now I have two Singer Pros finished set up to do the four thread ultra simulated safety stitch. This is the most commonly used stitch when making garments, so now I'm going to do a test stitch and show you exactly what it is. how it sounds and what the stitch looks like.

I have a knit t-shirt fabric here and I'm going to lift the presser foot and place the fabric close to the cutter. One thing you should always remember with a serger is that you need to be sure. To pull the threads back, never to the side because pulling the threads to the side can damage the needle plate, so this is what the test should look like. It should look nice and clean against the edge where the thread is ready. The cutter has cut, that's what the back should do. and I have this machine set up color coded on the dial colors so you can see exactly what thread needs to be adjusted if you have attention issues, this is what your stitch should look like from the right side.

I'll look at a bit of the stitching, but keep in mind that I'm using colors that don't match my fabric. If I were wearing all white, I would barely notice those stitches. Here I am ready to perform a test stitch on the 10:34 D Brother Serger I have the same build and I have this machine set up to run the same four thread ultra security simulated stitch, which is the stitch used for the construction that I finished for you to display on the Singer model. Now this stitch is set to default and a What I did notice is that if I had this dial set to the default value, which is a five, my stitches were hanging off the edge a little bit, so what I did to correct that was turn this dial up to a six and now I'm going to run another line of stitching so you can see the difference now if you notice that all the stitches sit much closer to the edge of the fabric with the setting at six, but with the setting at five, which is the default, the stitches hung off the edge just a little. a little bit so it's just a small difference in settings but not a deal breaker the stitch is very pretty you can barely see it on the right side considering I have my thread set to match my dials of this machine.

I found it to be a little noisier than the Singer Pro finish, but I thought it was a great machine to use as the Singer Pro finish. Here I am in front of the Singer Pro finish and what I would like you to say. What you should notice are the tension dials. These dials control the tension discs that the thread passes through to create tension for the stitch. When you go to thread the machine, raise the presser foot and set all dials to zero. This will help you get your threads seated correctly on your tension dials so that when you reset your dials you won't have tension issues.

Here I am from the top view of the 1034 D and I'd like you to notice this little title that says Release Thread Tension Each. One of the tension dials has a tension release attached to the mechanism, so when you are threading this machine you will need to slide each one to the right to release the tension on the tension disc so you can thread the tension disc correctly. Here I am in front of the Singer Pro finish and I'm going to open the cover by sliding it to the right and down and what I would like you to know is this little chart on the inside that is color coded according to the dials on the machine and shows you exactly how thread your machine, it even shows you the order in which to thread the upper looper the lower looper right needle left needle Here I am in front of the Brother 10:34 D overlocker and the front cover is open the same way it is open on the model Singer, it was slid to the right and then pulled down and on the inside cover there is also a chart for upper and lower looper threading, the upper looper is marked in green and the lower looper threading is marked in blue.

Here I am in front of the Brother 1034 D and on both sergers the most difficult looper to thread is the lower looper. What my brother has done to make it a little easier is that he has included this slide lever. To help you thread the bottom looper, he simply places the thread around this area and slides it back into position so the arrows match up and it's easier to thread the bottom looper. Here I am in front of the singer Pro Finnish overlocker and What I would like you to notice is this little lever, it is a built-in stitch finger, when pulled forward it is set to R which is set for a rolled hem stitch and when push back and position in S, it is for a standard increase. so this is built into the machine and it's not a part that you have to take out and then reinsert if you want to change your stitch here I am in front of the serger brothers and this machine has a removable stitch finger that I'm I'll show you how to take it out.

There's a little lever here right at the bottom, press in and take your stitch finger out. Now, with the stitch finger removed, you can sew a rolled hem stitch when you want to return to the normal position. The increase simply matches the two yellow arrows and presses it back into position so there you have it. My comparison of the Singer Pro Finished Overlocker and the Brother 1034 D Overlocker. I find both entry-level overlockers to be the same price. quantity and I find them both to be solid machines. I didn't find anything mechanical that didn't find sound even though I kept reading about people breaking the Brother needle plate.

I didn't find anything that made me feel inferior about the needle plate. I think it's more about technique and people not pulling the serger threads backwards but to the left. I feel like if you want to learn how to use a serger, both machines are very easy to learn to use and just thread. Commit to learning how to use your machine when you buy it and don't be afraid to take it out of the box. There are plenty of groups on Facebook to help you and plenty of videos on YouTube to help you get along, so I hope that if you're researching one of these machines, but found this video helpful, have a happy creative day, bye.