Simple Serging 103: 3-Thread Overlock Stitches & Rolled Hems

Hello everyone, my name is Kathy and I am part of the sales and education team here at Pocono sewing. In today's video segment, we cover

simple

emergence 103 in

simple

emergence 101, we cover how to

thread

your serger and how to make a four

thread

.

overlock

stitch in simple emergence 102 we cover how to extend that four thread

overlock

stitch with different tips and techniques and in today's video segment we are doing the three thread overlock stitch as well as the

rolled

hem which is a really beautiful hem finish, so I have a lot to do today, make sure your machine is threaded and ready to go.

It might be a good time to check those needles and put in some new ones. With that in mind, let's begin our augmentation lesson today. your basics 101 we worked on the four thread overlock stitch here and we have the front here and this is the back and you can clearly identify the two threads of the needle: the left needle and the right needle, as well as the looper superior. crossing at the top and its lower anchor crosses at the back. Now in this video segment we are going to work on the three thread overlock stitch and it uses only three threads in the common sense ear and you will use BOTH the upper looper thread and the lower looper thread, but you will only use one needle and the needle that serves will determine whether it is a wide three-thread overlock or a narrow three-thread overlock.

You can easily see the differences in the stitch because the width of the three thread overlock stitch usually matches the width of the four thread overlock stitch and if you look here you can see that something is missing and what is missing is the right needle thread here, so to make a three thread wide overlock stitch you are going to remove the right needle, the seam of the needle that goes on the right side and you are only going to use the left needle if we look at the Eero three thread overlock that you are going to see right Here again one needle has been removed and it has been the left needle and you are only using the right needle which will give you a narrower three thread overlock stitch.

Here I have the three wide threads and the 3 narrow threads on top of each one. another one so you can see the difference in width and how it compares again to the four thread overlock stitch. People will ask me when you use the four thread overlock stitch versus a 3/3 thread. This is really up to you, but I'll give you a few. general guidelines if you're making garments, children's clothing, you're making pants, things that require a lot of stress on the seams, like cropping, look at the high stress area of ​​my pants, if I'm using my serger, I'm going to use all four.

Thread the overlock stitch through here, however, if I were working on my machine that was doing a three thread

rolled

hem, perhaps the day before or within the days before, I might consider leaving my machine set for the narrow 3 thread hem. threads and construct a garment if It is relatively loose because loose garments are not going to withstand tension like the crotch of pants or a bodycon garment, a bodycon top dress or leggings, if you are making leggings, use a four thread overlock stitch. that's tight it's really a lot of common sense there's no right or wrong you're probably going to make mistakes along the way everyone does it that's fine but keep working on it um you're going to gain more knowledge when it comes to whip stitching I also want to use any of these

stitches

here .

Four thread overlock. Why do the 3 threads narrow? It doesn't always have to be for seams; You can use them as sewing finishes on the edges of garments. 3 threads sometimes, if I want a tank top that isn't bulky and I'm going to tuck it into my pants, I'll just finish the edge with one of these

stitches

instead of turning it under and sewing on top less bulk, less visible under the pants and there. again you have a few options, you can use this as an edge treatment for pillows, home items, whatever, you're ready, let's move on to how to set up our machine for a narrow three thread stitch, this is the one we're going to use. what to do and your choice is up to you as to which needle you want to remove to make that particular three thread wide or three thread stitch.

Let's look at our machine settings when you go from a four-thread overlock stitch to a narrow three-thread stitch or a three-thread width in all of your settings will be exactly the same on a serger like this, so if you're using the needle left only for a three thread overlock, why will your tension still be set to three if you are doing? a narrow three thread overlock you will only use the correct needle and the tension of the right needle will be set to three, you do not have to change it for the needle you are not using because the needles will not be in We will not have the thread in that guide again tension for your shuttles, they will remain the same at three.

Our differential we will set to one unless we need to change it and this is not a lesson on. differential feed, so we'll leave it at one and our stitch length we'll use an average stitch length of three. Be sure to pay attention to the needles you are using. If you want to use a SP SP. means special stitch, these are overlockers, so we use size 11 to 14 overlocker needles, if you need to change them, go ahead and change them before you start, if you've been sewing a lot of things, okay, let's get up close and personal with our machines, are you ready?

Yes, you are ready and you can see on my machine that the left needle has been removed. I only have the right needle when you are going to set your machine for three threads. What you want to do, this is my pro tip for you: don't cut the threads first, what you want to do is loosen one of the screws on the needle that you are removing and then it will fall out, but if you still have the thread attached, it won't will fall completely. all the way and you can easily pull the thread to get the needle out so loosen it and drop the needle just take the needle and then cut the threads and then pull the thread that you are not using all the way back and just put it on this spool of thread on the back of your machine just to keep it out of the way so it doesn't get tangled.

What screws do you loosen well? It will depend on the needle you are going to remove. so here's a screw here for the left needle at the top and there's a little L on the right here's the screw for the right needle and there's a little R for that screw so you instantly know which screw is the left or the right, remember The old saying left-handed loose, right-handed tight applies to these screws, so you'll want to get out your small screwdriver and loosen the screw to remove it and remove the needle and then remember to tighten that screw if you don't tighten this one.

The needle screw that you are removing, do you know what will happen when you increase it to a high speed that it could come out, fall into your machine and never be seen again and then you will have to go to your dealer or place an order? in line that little screw that goes there, so when you listen and you take the needle off, you go back to tighten it again. I want to point out one thing: this machine may look a little different to you, this is the eight thousand two D, this also applies to several Janome models like the 70 34 and some others.

This light here is very bright. We made a modification to this machine. Lauren said she installed an LED light on it, so this one may look a little different from Your Laurens is a very helpful girl and she is a great coworker. It made this much clearer and easier to see on this surface, so right here they removed my left needle. I'm just using the right needle and I'm ready to move on with this, so let's try to put a sample on and see what it looks like. I just sat down and rethreaded my machine and I want you to remember a few basic guidelines here when you approach your machine to start working.

I have a phrase in class that I say "lower rat" so that telescoping rod on the top of your machine that you're not looking at right now raises it by hand to the highest position so those threads can move freely. through the guides and the tension, please get into that routine of doing that because sometimes when you forget we will have broken needles and that is never fun to deal with, everything is set according to the guidelines that I mentioned before, remember that Yes your foot is up, you will want to lower the presser foot. You don't have to lift it when you insert the fabric into the machine, unless maybe it's very thick and you need to help it.

Remember to follow the guidelines. If you want to keep a consistent seam allowance, I may not be so good with this because it's a little difficult for me to film a conversation and press the pedal at the same time. There are many things happening here. I made sure. that I turned my steering wheel ten times towards me to make sure I had threaded it correctly and that everything was forming nicely on the stitch finger. There is one question I want to ask you: where do you put the needle once you take it out? the needle bar you know where I put it and some people will have problems with where I put my needle when I take it out I take the cone that I'm not using this is the thread from my left needle and I'm going to stick it in the right one on that cone so I can find it easily now, people in the cyber world will tell me and I'm sure I'll get some comments about what you should never do, that you should never put your PIN on your thread spool because that tip can weaken the fibers, you know what which may be true, but I'm a practical girl, I work fast, that's where I put it, don't judge me for that and I won't judge you where you put the needles either.

I have my piece of fabric here, I'm going to fold it in half and I'm going to try to follow it. I'm going to use the 3/8 inch seam allowance right here, like put my foot on the pedal and tilt the camera a little better, okay, let's see how this turned out. well, I have a beautiful, beautiful three-thread overlock stitch that came out perfectly. I want you to try this at home. I want you to take out one of your needles using the guide lines. I have given you and I want you to experiment between the three threads and in narrow and the 3 wide threads and let's see what you come up with.

I want to see photos of your progress or at least comment on what your progress was. We are ready now to improve things, what I have Reserved for you is the 3 thread rolled hem, this is a fabulous finish that people love on the

hems

of children's clothing, cover items, napkin edges, pillows, you name it, it's very, very beautiful finish and I'm going to show you how to do this right now. If you're unfamiliar or feel like I'm moving too quickly with some of the parts of the machine, check out the simple surgery or surgery basics 101 where I talked about. about the parts of the machine but I think if you hang in there you will be able to make a beautiful 3 thread rolled hem in no time, now is the time to grab your manual and if you are using the Janome 8000 2 d in my manual it says page 31 yes you have the 7030 for the 204 d or another brand of machine that works similar to this 8000 - d you want to look for the page that has the information about the rolled hem, so let's look for In some of these configurations, if you can hem rolled, it will be very easy to make the picot edge and narrow hem and I want you to experiment with them once you master the rolled hem, they are just minor adjustments but you have to pay attention to what you are doing, we will have a change for the hem wound and the stitch length differential will remain at 1.

The needle plate adjustment knob we will have to go into our machine and change what it says yes. you're using the needle on the right and it tells you what size it tells you what size thread to use it tells you what threads will be appropriate, so woolly nylon, woolly polyester or synthetic, what you have in the cones of your overlocker is good. and like light fabrics like organza crepe de chien, a law in Georgia, you can use cotton, just the lighter fabrics look so pretty with this rolled hem, it tells you right here that for tension adjustments you will only use the The right needle is like a three thread narrow hem, but for the three thread rolled hem again, you're just using the right needle and you're brilliant and the tension should be set on the top looper should be set to three. and your bottom looper tension look this should be set to seven so they have some differences they are in tension this is a tension imbalance moving up they show you what your stitch should look like and you know where it is here .

Sometimes people don't know what their stitch would look like and they look at these diagrams and can't figure it out. All I can say is that I will show you what a good rolled hem looks like and if you follow the instructions in my video to make a rolled hem, as long as you have threaded it correctly according to serger basics 101, you should get a very good three thread rolled hem immediately after making these adjustments, so let's look at our machine now and make the adjustments it says to do in In the manual, the first thing to do is change the stitch length.

Turn the stitch length knob up to the arm and make sure they are in line with that little guide on the machine. Differential power must be set to one. zero pointand it's right here the next thing we need to do is change the needle plate adjustment knob to our I'm going to have my camera react so I can see where it is to access the needle plate adjustment knob. I'm going to have to do a couple things number one, open door number two, open the side door and remember in the first video where I showed you how to put your knife up and down, well this is where we're going to have to do it.

I'm going to have to press this knob here, my knife will come out and I'm going to turn it to the down position, so my knife has been disconnected I have to do this because I can't move this red ah this is the setting of the plate needle I can't move that from s to R R means rolled hem until my knife is down but I have to do it One more thing, I have to press my cutting width knob right here because if I don't do it yet I can't move that knob, I don't. force it, you don't want to break it, push this in, I like to hold down, put a little bit.

Press to the right, push it in and while I'm holding it, I'm just going to move it to the front, let the width come back if it doesn't fit into place, just give it a little tug, then you'll want to put the knife back, people always I seem to forget this, so I need to put a little bit of pressure here so that when I push the knob my machine doesn't move towards me, so I'm going to push it over there and rotate it. To get to the top position, you really have to push with a good degree of force.

Some people think you know it's not moving right, you're just not pushing hard enough, making that blade adjustment down, pushing this to move the red lever, pulling this back. Remove and replace the knife practically as you prepared it for the rolled hem. The only other thing we have to do is adjust our tensions and make sure you have the right needle, which I do. Let's look at our voltage settings now. We are just using the correct needle, so this is the only knob we should worry about and our manual says to set the tension to four.

I have set it to four. Let's look at the tension of our upper anchor. He says that the upper anchor should be. set to three, currently it is lower, the looper tension should be set to seven, now don't be afraid to turn the needle tension knobs. I will make a video with a detailed explanation of the tensions and how to adjust them and how you can recognize what is happening. If you are one of the people who bought their machine from us, you will have access to my video explaining the tension. I thought a lot about how I want to present this, it's the way I do it in class and I think once I do it where people really understand their tensions it's like an AHA type moment that won't be public again, it will be a private video for our Poconos and supporting customers because we like to show how much we appreciate them by giving them a little bit. extra on the way right now we're ready to start increasing, so let's move the camera back a little bit and we'll get our fabric, so let's see how it looks.

I have a fabric swatch right here and I'm just going to make a single layer and I'm going to line up my fabric at about the five-eighths inch mark, so let's see what's going on here, cut it out, okay, let's take a look, look at that. It's a beautiful world ham a little bit. of thread got caught in that edge, look, that is absolutely beautiful, very, very nice rural town. I am always very happy with these two knowledgeable machines. I think even though they're entry level, they really give a beautiful rolled hem that you can even do on two layers of fabric because a lot of times, if you're making a pillow or you know some kind of home patio item, you might you're working with two layers of cotton and this is a very good quality quilting cotton that I'm using it and let's see how it turned out in two layers of cotton absolutely beautiful, let me bring it here a little bit so I can focus, oh, how beautiful, a so delicate and nice finish and you can really feel the roll of the fabric, it's like a nice little bulge there, really very cute, so we have made the hem rolled, now we need to change it back to the narrow 3 thread, you have completed the rolled hem, that's amazing.

I want you to think about one thing, how do you want it? Your machine is set for the next time you use it. Will you use it tomorrow? You will use it within a week or maybe within a month or six months. Don't leave your machine set for a rolled hem if you think you might forget where it's placed, so I want you to reverse it back to a narrow three-thread overlock stitch, we're just going to reverse what we did to set it up for a rolled hem first. place. so let's look at our tensions in front.

I want you to reset all your tensions to three on the right side of your machine. I'm going to angle this so you set the stitch length from where it was set to where I want you to set it back to three and then I want it to make sure its differential is set to one. Open the cover and open the left cover. You should place the knife facing down. Push this in. Make sure the knife is in the down position. Maintain stitch width. Push the red knob back to pull it out a little. If you don't hear a click, put the knife back in and then close the door here, close the front cover and you're all set in your narrow three-thread hem. easy, please make sure to save yourself some headaches and just reverse it if you don't know when the next time you will use your machine will be.

There you go, good luck everyone. I want to see your three threads. wide your three narrow threads and your beautiful three thread rolled

hems

thank you for looking