Sidewinder 7 timing and setup

Hello everyone, this is a Sidewinder Seven, it's ten years in the making of my rotary project that started in 2010 and now we are in 2020. I have done many things to this machine to make it the easiest Sidewinder to use today . The two most important things. Now it has a fixed four millimeter travel and you adjust the stroke with a simple spring adjustment and it's not a screw so you go too far and start over so you just spin this thing around you. You'll get the softest hit with the highest tension right here, pointing toward that ear, and you twist down like this and it reduces the tension and right here you'll get the hardest hit, ideally in the five volt range and below this range. .

Right here is where you want to have lower volts, less tension, higher volts, higher tension if you want to go really fast and in and you slide your lines and you're still going to need some resistance just because the speed is going to make it hit. harder, so over five and a half volts you'll want to be more in this range. A big achievement for me with this machine was getting it right with cartridge needles, now you can only be as good as the cartridge and the grip. you're using, so you want to make sure that a good rubber band cartridge, rubber band cartridges generally just pull the needle group in toward the tip and don't move, and I found a lot of cartridges from membrane if you push it in and then pull this out and the needle group will just move there so it's not very precise.

I have found that the black claw carriage membrane cartridges are very stable and precise and have pretty good tension, so the other big thing with cartridges running is making sure your plunger goes into this hole and doesn't have too much pending in that hole, so if you're just randomly grabbing a plunger and randomly grabbing a cheap disposable grip or whatever, you may find that there's a lot of junk in there and that junk is going to translate into spitting you out with a cartridge, so let's get started here. I'm going to go ahead and start with the cartridges because that's what it's all about. a cartridge 85 to 90 millimeters long, depending on how you measure a cartridge, I think the total length is about 90 millimeters from the end to the tip of the plunger is 90 and if you measure from the center hole, like from here to the plunger, it's It would be about 85 millimeters, that's fine for the standard needle, even those like the cartridge that I'm just showing you with a standard needle, just take your rubber band and put it over here.

If you have thinner rubber bands, you can use two of the number 12. instead you could use three if you need more tension, you can do this too, but for the cartridges, all you're going to do is lift them up like you normally would, but you're going to pull them and twist them and bring it on and with these thicker ones I like to stretch them quite a bit before I put them on because they actually have so much tension on them that it's not good, you're going to have to play with this yourself with your brand. of cartridges that you like to use the most and then your grip and everything good, here we are five point eight, the most useful configuration is down and it hits pretty hard.

I can, I definitely could, you know, run 11 lines like that, Once for Teens, whatever. soft, now they are harder, you will see when I get less than 5 volts, this range gets a little weird, so you want to stay in this range below 5 volts. I really like them with standard needles. The other thing I really like with this. The machine is that I designed the one I designed a little differently. I got the geometry different enough that it has an amazing color. Packer and you can apply the whip tone with it, okay, but what it's like when I feel like it shines is if you want to do it. very intense saturation, but you also want to get a slightly softer fade.

This creates a naturally softer fade and very fast saturation. It's also really good for black and gray because it can grab more attention and you get a really soft result. effect, but when you apply it on the skin for those precise areas you will get a very easy saturated fill in your tight corners and things like that. Here I am at 4.3 regressed completely, it's mostly better at five goals, it's really easy. to control everything here we are, I'm at five and a half, that's really punchy, I could definitely use 15 chargers right there or even my larger and medium sized group lines, if I want to do that we'll go to 6 volts. here, that's really hard right there and I backed up further and there you have it, let's talk about impact adjustment.

I made this adjustment that where you're not really going to do it, you should never have to mess with it, you see, you use this. Little one, you see that little line, you see the cross tip of your screwdriver, but then there's a little plane of line up, most of these machines will point up when you get them, or over here or slightly to the left in your hand left. On the side where the tension increases, the impact increases, so what I'm talking about is increasing when you push the bar down, rotate this naturally, this line should point to about a two o'clock position, if you increase this , will raise the point where that bar is.

Hit it and it will raise that line, watch that line rise and when you do that, if you get too much your machine will choppy, if you get too little the machine will jump and the hits will feel like that. it hits but as soon as you hit the skin it goes back and it just doesn't hit well and there is a time when if it doesn't hit well you may have to turn it counterclockwise to lift the pin a little bit. impact and if you turn it all the way 180 degrees, rip that line that's pointing down, it's going to have the same

setup

as if it were up and then it's going to start with the least amount of tension right down there and then a little bit more and then that's the neutral point. again and then more tension, more tension and then the neutral point again all of this, all of these components are hardened steel, hardened tool steel, I should say, and they shouldn't deflect over time, it should be a The most important thing to keep in mind is that you don't want to just run the machine and jam it to the point where you're trying to pull the truss rod up with your thumb because what's going to happen is you're I'm going to flex this camp, these cams are going to flex the spring so much that you could potentially have the spring out of shape and by the time the spring is out of shape then your shock adjustment will be off again, just treat your machine with respect.

You shouldn't have that problem with this. Take a look at this guy. Well, thanks for watching.