Sheer Serger Scarf

we love using our

serger

s to make garments and today we are going to make a

sheer

serger

scarf

using the 3 thread rolled edge of our babylock serger. This is a great way to explore the versatility of our overlocker. We love using the baby serger. the locks have automatic threading, automatic tensions and really, as you'll see, I just have to do some testing for aesthetic purposes so I can make you a

scarf

that will probably take you about half an hour to make. From start to finish, to make the serger scarf, you will need a baby lock serger, three spools of machine embroidery thread.

We are using this yarn because it is a little lighter and brighter to match our two yard semi-formal serger scarf. of

sheer

chiffon fabric and then we finished our scarf with some beautiful beads just to add a little weight to the corners, take two yards of sheer fabric and cut it in half lengthwise so this fabric is 60 inches wide which I cut . Along the middle I have two yards of fabric here that are thinner than what originally came on the bolt and then we're going to fold it in half, so here's my folded edge, we line up the cut edge there and straighten everything out. while the fabric is folded, measure 15 inches from the folded edge and use two straight pins and place a pin through the top layer and then also a pin through the bottom layer so you don't need to pin the fabric, they are two separate pins that mark 15 inches from that center fold on your fabric, so today we're going to use a baby lock serger that has automatic tensions and threading, which is really nice.

The only real test we have to do on a baby lock is for aesthetic reasons so I set the machine to the recommended setting for a rolled edge is the stitch selector D stitch width 3 and then on the length there is a range that says 0.75 to 4 R, so I make sure to turn to the coiled section of my knob length to get a nice coil. edge, but then we're going to test our stitch length, so I know from experience that on a sheer fabric I want it to at least be about 2, so let's see how it looks, here's what it looks like. we're getting a nice wrap, but we're not getting a ton of slits or anything like that, but we're also not poking our fabric too much and creating a ton of bunching, okay, sometimes you get a little bit. of bunching after making a rolled edge, but you can just press it with your fingers, so if it had gone to a lower level, lengthen it; let's go to about 1 and see what it looks like, so here's a 1 and it doesn't It looks terrible, but for my taste it's a little bit over the top, it's a little bit stiff because the stitch is very dense, so once again, this is a length of 1 compared to the length of 2.

Now let's make a 3 and see what it looks like. Okay, and this one is a little loose and look, we're having little threads poking out here, so we found our happy medium in it, but throughout this whole process I haven't had to change any tension or anything like that. Testing my stitch length, kind of like you do with a satin stitch when you appliqué, so you're going to sew with the right side of the fabric facing you, so start with the pin that's furthest to your left, so You have both pins, here is the one on your left, you can go to the other pin and be coming up on the right side of your fabric.

My fabric doesn't really have a right or wrong side, whichever side you decide is the right side. your fabric is the right side of your fabric, take out your PIN before you start to emerge. I am using a three wire rolled edge on my baby lock and with a three wire rolled edge it is always a good idea to have the blade up and be cut a little when you get to your PIN, get it close to the foot but stop, never go over the pins and then take the fabric, fold it on the right sides and find where it originally started to emerge if the needle ended up in the fabric, use the ruffle. to lift it off the fabric and very carefully lift the presser foot and slide the previous presser foot under the presser foot, lower it so that both layers line up perfectly, take out the pin, lift it up now, the presser feet hold the fabric in place. and you can line up the raw edges, so now we're increasing the two layers of fabric and we're going to finish by cutting this little tail that we had when we started and we're just going to continue increasing the two layers of fabric. all the way and if you get to the end and your two raw edges that are perpendicular to this edge don't line up, don't worry, we can go to the cutting table and cut off that extra little bit, there's a lot. fabric and we're done, so this is the wrong side of our fabric where this emergence is showing in our seam, so if we turn it over to the right side, that seam will be hidden until you go back to the fold and see the seam. at the neckline, okay, so the next edge that we're going to sew is the edge that is perpendicular to our seam and we're going to look just over one layer of fabric once again cutting a little bit as we do our rolled edge and this is the part easier is to follow this short edge and we're almost all the way on the other side and you're just going to look well the last thing we're going to move forward is the hem and this will probably be your selvage edge there's something extra to keep in mind on this one border, especially if you want to put beads on the corner of your scarf first instead of using our little script here as my guide. run my blade right here and get rid of these little edge stitches here, that's where the fabric is held on the loom as it's being woven, so you see all these little pin pricks, they're not very pretty, so we don't want them, so I'm going to cut them out, but also your little bold edge tail here is a very useful tool if you want to create any kind of little tassel or, as we're going to do, we're going to put a couple of beads here to weigh it down and so give yourself a very generous tail. here, make sure it's not wrapped in some funny way, make sure it flows freely behind your presser foot, so I'll just pop out no fabric under my presser foot and you'll be able to do this on a baby lock, it's almost like making your own little one. crochet chain, okay, you can sew in the air like this, okay, and then start and notice that I'm adjusting from time to time, you don't want the weight of your project to increase. distorting the seam, it's not too big of a problem with a fabric as light as this, but that can give you a crooked looking stitch and can cause you to pull on the fabric, especially if you're working with a knit fabric and then again when you do it. get. all the way to the end of your scarf here and we're looking for, give yourself a nice long tail.

I mean, it can be as long as you want. I would say about five or six inches to be safe, and I have that little tail there if you see that your fabric is curling a little bit like that, you can just press it with a little finger, sometimes that happens with the rolled edge or you can steam it, but actually with this fabric I can just smooth it out with my fingers and then it will be nice and beautiful. This is one of the reasons you'll want to do some tests on your fabric before you start to really look at what your stitch length should be to finish off the two corners of your scarf. use your nice long tail that we left and put some beads here and all that will give weight to the scarf as you wear it since it's made of such a fine fabric so I'm going to take my twill tail and just stretch it nice and thin here and I give myself a little cut for a cleaner edge, it can be a little difficult to get all three threads through the eye of the needle, but just twist them together, take a little time and thread the whole thing like one thread like that and then go ahead and put some beads on the end of the needle before I did this and what I did before I did this while I check to make sure I chose a needle that went very smoothly through the hole in my bead and I'm going to put about three beads on this border here, you could do a kind of larger hanging crystal or something, you can combine things however they work for you and one more, okay, it looks pretty good, so I have three beads here.

I'm going to put a little bit of space between the first two and the third and I'm just going to go back through those first two, so I made kind of a little loop keeping my first two beads close to the fabric, drawing them up. Okay, and then you can pull this loose thread through the previous rolled edge or just tie a knot here. There's really no right or wrong way to do it. So it's good to tie a little knot here, so pick a little bit. your fabric just like you wouldn't with a hand sewing thread make yourself a little loop tighten that loop you have another loop pass it through it tighten that loop and we have a knot here very secure knot for our beads and then what we can do is just go through our fabric, our rolled edge and tuck that tail into the fabric and the serger seam, we see it's all going to go through there, a little sort of beaded tassel and then I can cut this out nice and close. to the edge and that will make my scarf weigh more or less while hanging from me.