Rick Steves' The Holy Land: Israelis and Palestinians Today

Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more travel. This time we are exploring the Holy Land, Israel and Palestine. It's harvest time. Our goal: to understand and enjoy the people who love this

land

and call it home. Thank you for joining us. The

land

occupied by Israelis and Palestinians is, for a third of humanity, Israel is literally

holy

land, and Jerusalem marks its sacred center. For Christians, this is where Jesus was crucified and resurrected. For Muslims, this is where Muhammad traveled to heaven from. And for the Jews, Solomon's Temple was right here. The Holy Land, crossroads of three great religions, has been coveted and disputed for centuries.

While Israelis and Palestinians have overlapping claims and struggle to peacefully share them, this land has a rich and fascinating heritage. We will go beyond the scope, opening our minds to both narratives to better understand and empathize with people. In Israel, we will explore Jerusalem and learn some of the religious customs and ideas that shape society here. and we will walk through the Golan Heights, where the importance of maintaining Israel's security is a lasting lesson. And now we have to make sure we are on high ground, so we don't let this happen again. In Palestine, by harvesting olives, taking a house tour, and visiting a university, we will experience a land that few travelers visit and a point of view that few people consider.

My whole entire country. I don't know my country. And along the way, we'll hear some of the many perspectives here. We will learn about security walls, controversial settlements and the persistent challenges facing the region. At the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea, the region west of the Jordan River is divided between predominantly Jewish Israel and predominantly Muslim and Arab Palestine, which is made up of the West Bank and Gaza. We will start in Jerusalem and, in Israel, we will visit Tel Aviv, the Sea of ​​Galilee and the Israeli-controlled Golan Heights. Then, in the West Bank, we will venture to Bethlehem, Hebron, Nablus and finish in Ramallah.

The Muslims and Jews who inhabit this region share a family tree that dates back almost 4,000 years. It was then that the patriarch or prophet Abraham had two sons. From Isaac came the Israelites and Ishmael begat the Arabs. This ancient ethnic mix is ​​complicated by religions. The Israelites were Jews. Christians worship Jesus, a Jew who brought his own message. And

today

, the majority of Arabs here are Muslims, a religion that came much later with their prophet Muhammad, in the 7th century. Over the centuries, this region endured waves of conquerors, from the ancient Romans to Christian crusaders and Ottoman Muslims.

Until the 20th century, the entire area was called Palestine, as in Roman times. While Muslims generally outnumbered Jews and Christians, the various communities generally got along peacefully. In the 20th century, the Jewish population grew, especially with the creation of the State of Israel after World War II. Today, the combined population of Israel and Palestine is about 12 million, about half Jewish and half Arab Muslim and only a couple percent Christian. In 2012, the United Nations recognized Palestine as a state. Okay, I know, this is complicated and controversial. And I imagine some people on both sides are already upset with me.

But I'm a travel writer and the good thing for me is to come here with an open mind and learn. We will visit each side and we will do so in alphabetical order: first Israel and then Palestine. Come on. Israel is the size of New Jersey and has 8 million people, twice the population of Palestine. Although the State of Israel is young, the Jewish people have a history that dates back 4,000 years. There's history everywhere, and within a two-hour drive from Jerusalem, you can take a scenic tour of places that illustrate its tumultuous past. 2,000 years ago, Caesarea was a powerful Roman seaport.

Further up the coast is the 12th-century Crusader city of Akko. And in the 16th century, after the return of Muslim rule, the Ottoman Turks surrounded Jerusalem with this powerful wall. And the 20th century has left reminders of the determined struggle that built

today

's Jewish state. In 1947, after the Holocaust and the end of World War II, the United Nations helped found the modern State of Israel, and Jews, long dispersed around the world, returned to their ancient homeland. In the process, hundreds of thousands of Palestinians were displaced and, to this day, both peoples struggle to find an equitable and peaceful way to share what each considers their rightful homeland.

The division of the Holy Land has not been easy. The Arabs rejected the United Nations partition plan of 1947, which created an independent Jewish state and an independent Arab state. Civil war broke out, leading to the Arab-Israeli War of 1948. After a year of fighting, with Israel largely victorious, a ceasefire was declared and temporary borders, known as the Green Line, were established. In the 1960s, Arab-Israeli relations deteriorated again to the point that war broke out in 1967. With a quick and decisive victory in the Six-Day War, Israel substantially increased its territory. Later, Palestinians, angered by the loss of their land and freedom, staged two uprisings or intifadas.

About 1,000 Israeli civilians were killed by Palestinian suicide bombers as violence escalated during the Second Intifada, from 2000 to 2005. In response, Israel asserted itself more aggressively, building a controversial fence or wall around the West Bank in the name of security against terrorism. The epic stories of the world's three great monotheistic religions have unfolded on this small plot of land. It has been a difficult mix, and Jerusalem is the most disputed city within this disputed land. Jerusalem is a modern and expanding city of approximately 800,000 inhabitants. But its core, the Old City, is home to only 35,000 people. Its venerable walls enclose a tangle of many of the most sacred sites on this planet.

Within a 10-minute walk you can see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, so sacred to Christians... the Dome of the Rock, revered by Muslims... and the holiest site in Judaism, the Western Wall. For many people, Jerusalem is the closest place on earth to heaven. Much of Jerusalem's importance lies in this sacred site, which is both an inspiration and a flashpoint for the religions that share it. Muslims believe that Muhammad traveled to heaven from here and have worshiped here for 1,300 years. The Jews teach that here Abraham, as a proof of his faith, was asked to sacrifice his son.

God intervened and saved Isaac. They call this place the Temple Mount, believe it is the center of the earth, and have worshiped here for 3,000 years. One thousand years before Christ, King David united the 12 tribes of Israel and captured Jerusalem. His son Solomon built the First Temple right here. It was later destroyed and the Second Temple was built. Then came the catastrophic year for the Jews, 70 AD, when the Romans destroyed their temple and gave way to the diaspora. It was then that the Jews became a landless people and scattered throughout the world. The western foundations of this ancient temple complex survive.

Here, at what is called the Wailing Wall, Jews lament a horrible past and pray for a better future. The plaza functions as an open-air synagogue, with men and women separated by a barrier. The faithful believe that prayers left in the cracks between the stones of the Western Wall will be answered. Bar mitzvahs and festivals liven up the scene. With the Torah held high, joyful families celebrate in Judaism's holiest place. The Old City of Jerusalem radiates from the Temple Mount. It is divided into four neighborhoods: Jewish, Muslim, Armenian and Christian. Through the Christian neighborhood winds the Via Dolorosa, the route that Jesus is believed to have traveled carrying the cross.

Pilgrims come from all over Christendom to retrace their steps. Your journey culminates at the site of Jesus' crucifixion, marked by the Church of the Holy Sepulcher on Mount Calvary, or Golgotha. Today, the dark, sprawling church is the most sacred site in Christendom. Built on the site where Jesus is believed to have died and resurrected, pilgrims line up to pray at the site of the crucifixion. And a few steps away, under a large dome, they gather to enter the tomb or tomb of Jesus and place a candle in the place where he was buried. Exploring the Old City of Jerusalem, with its small neighborhoods and religious passions, I was struck by the diversity, the sense of community, and how things generally seem to work together.

The Jewish Quarter is more orderly and modern than the other neighborhoods. Much of this area was destroyed during the fighting of 1948 or during the subsequent period of Jordanian occupation. After the Israelis took control of Jerusalem in 1967, they rebuilt this neighborhood. While it is neither convenient nor economical to live in this medieval morass, devout Jews find great joy in living here and raising their families so close to the Western Wall. The Muslim Quarter, with more than half of the Old City's population, is Arab. Like the Jewish Quarter, it extends from the Temple Mount, which is crowned by the resplendent Dome of the Rock.

Just as Jews worship at the base of the Temple Mount, Muslims worship at its summit, in the shadow of the dome, with its intricate geometric designs in stone and tile fitting majestically within its pure, simple lines. As sacred as this place is to Muslims, it is controlled by Israel and residents of Palestine are generally not allowed to worship here. Most of those who pray here are Israeli citizens, part of Israel's Palestinian minority. Here in the Muslim quarter, a bustling, labyrinthine market is popular with local Arabs. Today, on the eve of a Muslim holiday, the market is especially busy.

As you stroll through the Muslim Quarter, you may see houses fortified and adorned with Israeli flags, homes of Zionist families determined to police this part of the Old City for their Jewish community. Taking into account the rich historical heritage of each of these communities, it is understandable that both compete for this sacred property. This fight for control of Jerusalem is an enormous political challenge. While complete Muslim control of Jerusalem is unrealistic, many Arabs envision an independent Palestinian state with this part of Jerusalem – East Jerusalem – as its capital. It is a very contentious issue and Israel seems determined to keep Jerusalem whole and under its control.

An icon of the tension is the wall that Israel has built between itself and Palestine. What Israelis call a "security fence," Palestinians consider an affront to their dignity and a land grab, as it often crosses the internationally agreed border and penetrates into Palestinian territory. Just five miles from the Dome of the Rock is a checkpoint on the wall, from where I can walk from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. As in border cities between rich and poor lands around the world, every day, workers with special passes cross the wall on their journey from the poor side to better-paying jobs in the richer country.

As long as times are calm, West Bank is open for the adventurous traveler. You don't need a visa, the currency is the same as Israel's, good tourist guides show you the way and you certainly won't find crowds of tourists. Bethlehem, a major Palestinian city, is the perfect first stop in the West Bank. For me, no visit to the Holy Land is complete or balanced without crossing the wall and learning from both narratives: the Israeli and the Palestinian. Suddenly, there's not a kippah in sight. Wandering through the Palestinian streets and markets, I kept thinking about how easy it is to get here, how little I knew about it, and how little visited this land is.

Although beloved among Christians as the place where Jesus was born, Bethlehem is now a majority Muslim city. Its thriving market is a classic Arab souk. The main square is bustling with commerce and the main roundabout features a monument to locals serving time in Israeli prisons. Bethlehem's skyline is a commotion of crescents and crosses, a reminder that the city, though now majority Muslim, still has many Christians. While all Palestinians are Arabs, not all Palestinians are Muslims. In fact, a small minority are Arab Christians. The Nativity Square marks the center of Bethlehem. Here the Church of the Nativity is built on the site where Jesus is believed to have been born.

Inside, you feel the history. Emperor Constantine, the first Christian Roman emperor, had this church built in the year 326. A constant flow of pilgrims and tourists come here from all over Christendom to remember that first Christmas and pray at the place where tradition says Jesus was born. Many assume that Palestinian or Arab Christians converted in modern times, but in reality their Christian roots date back to the time of Christ. ByTrue, a century ago, about 20 percent of all Palestinians were Christians. Today, that number has dropped to less than 2 percent, and most of them live here in Bethlehem. Along with Christians, Muslims also consider it a sacred place.

In fact, there has also been a mosque in the Nativity Square for more than a thousand years. It is Friday and Muslims have gathered to pray. Traveling, especially here in Palestine, is full of opportunities to learn. After praying, I met a cleric and enjoyed a conversation about Islam. What are you waiting for? And what do you see in the future here in Palestine? I hope, in the whole world, to be one family. -A family. -A family. We need this for life. No fights, no murders, no explosions, no violence, to be good people. Every Friday I say this message to everyone.

So I hope for everyone, and I tell you, I like to come and take your hand from here to go to heaven together, not alone. -I am not a selfish man. -Good. I love you, I love him, I love everyone. I like... This is my religion. When I'm traveling, the more people I can talk to, the better. To make the most of this opportunity to better understand Palestine, we are accompanied by local guide Kamal Mukarkar. There are churches but also mosques in Bethlehem. KAMAL: Bethlehem is a very

holy

city for Muslims as well as Christians. For Muslims, Jesus is the second important prophet.

They also believe in Mary, they adore her. She has an entire section in the Quran named after her. A complete book of the Quran named after Mary? Yes, exactly, and that's why she is very important to them. We will stop by Kamal's house to meet his family and enjoy an evening together. It is typical in Palestinian culture for many generations to live under the same roof. We will meet Kamal's mother, fiancée, sister and children. After a good conversation in the living room, Kamal's mother calls us to the dinner table. She has prepared a classic tagine.

I think it is impossible for a traveler to go hungry in Palestine. The food keeps coming. And you have to keep something on your plate, because if you don't keep something on your plate, food, you will get food another time. Like anywhere else, making friends and entering a home offers an intimate glimpse into the everyday world of the people you meet. I think this is a beautiful, beautiful welcome here. -Sahtein. -And what is that? Enjoy. -Sahtein. -Sahtein. KAMAL: Translated, it's "health for your health twice," like twice for your health. STEVES: Twice for your health, sahtein. Crossing the wall into Jerusalem, the contrasts between the West Bank and Israel are immediately obvious.

Outside the Old City, we are immersed in modern Jerusalem. Joining locals on an afternoon stroll along Ben Yehuda Street in Jerusalem's New City, we appreciate this culture's compelling blend of east and west, secular and sacred, modern and traditional. About three-quarters of all Israelis are Jews. But most of them are secular, non-practicing Jews. About 15 percent of Israeli Jews are Orthodox, highly religious and lead conservative lifestyles that require them to be separate in many ways. Entire neighborhoods of Jerusalem are known as ultra-Orthodox. About 20 percent of the population are Arab citizens of Israel, generally Palestinians who never left the country after Israel's formation.

Christians, mostly Arabs, constitute a small and shrinking minority. Israel is a melting pot nation like no other. Almost half of the country are first generation immigrants, which is evident in the cultural makeup of the soldiers who seem to be everywhere. Almost all 18-year-olds serve time in the army. This service is a kind of cultural training ground, as even recently arrived immigrants emerge as good Hebrew-speaking Israelis. While I found that most Israelis look and live as contemporary as any modern American, there are corners where traditions are very strong. This is especially evident in places of worship and ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods.

With the help of my Jewish guide, Abie Bresler, observing the way people dress carries cultural insights. Walking down the street, there are so many different fashions, different ways people dress. BRESLER: Well, that's because they express belonging to a certain group and following a certain rabbi. Different rabbis set standards for how their followers should dress. STEVES: What does the block on the forehead indicate? BRESLER: Well, in the Scriptures it says that you should always have the love of God in your mind, so in that capsule they have a scroll with that Scripture. STEVES: What is the meaning of the kippah?

BRESLER: Jews wear kippahs because they constantly remind themselves that God is above them. STEVES: Oh, so everyone who wears a kippah, it's a constant reminder that their Creator is above. BRESLER: Definitely. STEVES: Now you see a lot of Orthodox people, even little kids, with long curls. BRESLER: Regarding curls, the Torah is very specific: "You shall not shave the sides of your face." And these people take those words as they are written. STEVES: You notice that the women dress quite modestly. BRESLER: Orthodox women are always dressed modestly. But when they get married, they take it a step further and cover their hair in public.

As for the hats, they are actually part of the uniform that defines which movement you belong to. So by looking at someone you can tell if they are Ashkenazi and what movement among the Ashkenazi. Or Sephardic or Lithuanian, and so on. STEVES: So there are many different strands of orthodoxy in the Jewish faith. BRESLER: Definitely. In Jerusalem, 19 among the ultra-Orthodox. STEVES: And it's like rabbis are almost pop stars. They have their own followers. These are the great teachers. BRESLER: More than pop stars. -More than? -More than pop stars, of course. Put this way, they are spiritual stars, without pop.

The State of Israel was born, in part, from the Holocaust, a defining event in the long history of the Jews. To appreciate the impact of the Holocaust, critical to understanding the psyche of modern-day Israel, visit Yad Vashem. This powerful museum and memorial chronicles the systematic massacre of six million Jews by Nazi Germany. Their Hall of Names is a project designed to give each victim the dignity of simply being named and recorded. This archive aspires to catalog and, therefore, remember each of the six million victims. Yad Vashem also celebrates the creation of modern Israel. It shows the spirit of Zionism, that determination of those who came as concentration camp survivors and refugees from Europe to forge a State for the Jewish people.

Photographs of early settlers show the first Zionists returning to their ancestral land, starting as a t

rick

le in the 19th century and becoming a flood after World War II. Today, just a couple of generations later, Tel Aviv's skyscrapers stand like exclamation points, declaring: "We've come a long way." Back then there was a popular slogan: "A land without a people for a people without a land." That was inspiring, but it ignored the reality of the Palestinians who actually lived here and were displaced with the creation of Israel. Still, it is impressive how the true determination of those early Jewish settlers turned the sand dunes into Tel Aviv and built modern Israel.

The historic city of Jaffa, now consumed by the expansion of Tel Aviv, was the new state's Ellis Island. This was where the newcomers set foot in Israel for the first time. Much of Jaffa, historically a major Arab city, was destroyed in 1948 in what Israelis call their "War of Independence." As in any war, there are winners and losers. And while Israelis celebrate the birth of their nation, Palestinians call Israel's Independence Day "The Day of Catastrophe." They remember their loss: the destruction of many Arab villages that once thrived here and how hundreds of thousands of those who fled ended up in refugee camps on the other side of a newly drawn border.

Just a 10-minute drive north of the old stone buildings of Jaffa are the new glass and steel buildings of modern Tel Aviv. Gleaming Tel Aviv feels as modern and busy as any American city its size. Although its history only dates back a century, the original main street, Rothschild Boulevard, is lined with venerable buildings. And Tel Aviv's beach scene is full of modern vitality. In this culture, food is love and seems to celebrate the bounty of the earth. We sat down with our Israeli guide, Benny, and driver, Kobi, for an edible lesson on this part of their culture.

Hello greetings. L'chaim. L'chaim. Very good. So, Benny, could you say this is typical Israeli? Yes, you can say that this is typical Israeli. Everything you see here is grown here locally. STEVES: Now, you could say this is Israeli, but it's also Arab cuisine. BENNY: Yes. We call it Israeli food now, but you can find it in Arab countries, you can find it in Lebanon, and you can find it all over the Middle East. Here we have eggplants with olive oil and tahini. Here we have the tahini itself. Here we have another eggplant salad with vegetables. That's the hummus.

Famous hummus made with chickpeas. This is something special. We call this tabbouleh. It is made from burghul, parsley and cucumbers. Very special, very tasty. It's okay to reach in and dip the pita bread in it. You dip it in each of the salads, and that's how it is done, without the need for a fork or knife. And, Kobi, how do you say "bon appetit" in Hebrew? -Beteavon. -Bete... -Beteavon. -Beteavon. Thank you. -L'chaim. -L'chaim. L'chaim. STEVES: Israel is small and surrounded by modern highways. Getting around is easy. Traffic signs are in three languages ​​and three scripts. Hebrew and Arabic for Jewish and Arab citizens of Israel and English for visitors.

A short drive along the coast takes us to Haifa, a prosperous and open city famous for its tolerance. Many people here are part of Israel's Arab minority. I was impressed by the youthful and positive energy. It seems that young Israelis here, whether from Muslim or Jewish families, are more interested in living free of their parents' religious and ethnic baggage. In a trendy cafe it was difficult to know who is who. Speaking with a local Arab-Israeli family, we learned that while problems remain, they consider this land their home. Now, what is it like socially in Haifa, if you are an Arab-Israeli with Jewish-Israelis?

Is it separate or can it be mixed? Well, we socialize in restaurants, at work, we socialize here and there. But... Some neighborhoods, some streets are mixed. Some streets. Not much. I used to hear from her that, once upon a time, they were closer together. Yes. As if I had neighbors who used to... -Really? -Yeah. To do everything together. Not now. STEVES: And what do you see for the future? For the Israeli Arabs and the Israeli Jews together, their children, what do they expect? Everyone hopes for peace and a better life, but I doubt it. -I doubt it. -The reality is?

The reality is not like that. Even with all the problems here, these are our roots, you know? We will never, ever abandon it. With everything that happens around us. STEVES: That's beautiful. I like to hear that. Yes. We love it here. Heading inland takes us 700 feet below sea level, to the Sea of ​​Galilee. Israel's main water source is fed and drained by the Jordan River. Galilee is popular with Christian pilgrims. It is famous for being the place where Jesus fulfilled his three years of ministry and where so many biblical stories took place, from the loaves and fishes and the Sermon on the Mount to Christ walking on water.

When exploring the Holy Land, your sightseeing tours range from ancient sacred sites to reminders of 20th century conflicts and wars. Overlooking the Sea of ​​Galilee are the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights. Taken from Syria in the 1967 war and now firmly under Israeli control, a visit here helps explain Israel's commitment to maintaining the high ground. Let's now see an ancient Syrian position... Our guide, Benny, shows us the strategic importance of this area from an ancient Syrian fort. From here, in an ancient Syrian position, you can understand how vulnerable Israel's settlements, villages and kibbutzim were before 1967. For an entire generation, the Syrians were here in the Golan, on the edge of the cliff, aiming and shooting up. every town and kibbutz of ours.

Every day they looked at Golan and said, "Will today be a bombing day?" STEVES: Artillery from this little base... boom. Mortar shells, artillery, tank shells, machine gun fire. STEVES: And the Sea of ​​Galilee was the source of fresh water for Israel. Still is. BENNY: The Sea of ​​Galilee has always been and remains the most important reservoir of water we have, and that's why, today, we find it very difficult to even conceive of leaving the Golan, allowing anyone to be here. Above all, we must maintain our security. The safety of Israelis, of families, of children. Then we can talk about all the other things.

Land control is the cruxof the problem between Israelis and Palestinians, and occupying high ground is more than a military issue: it is also a civil issue. Israel is developing settlements, fortified hilltop communities, deep in the West Bank. These controversial developments, which are essentially Israeli cities, reach into what the Palestinians consider their territory. Many Israelis argue that the development of this land is justified because it was not used. And many Jews believe that it is God's will for them to occupy the biblical Judea and Samaria, which is what they call the West Bank. About half a million Israeli Jews now live in settlements in Palestine.

These planned and gated communities have all the amenities. And with Israeli government subsidies for housing and transportation, young Jewish families can afford to live here and travel from West Bank settlements to Israel. As in other democracies, there are disagreements over government policy and many moderate Israelis oppose settlement construction in the West Bank. But government policies still allow the ongoing construction of these settlements. I chatted with several settlers to get their perspectives. And to have another narrative, I spoke with my Palestinian guides, both residents of the West Bank. There is a lot of confusion now in the United States about settlements and so on.

Is this an agreement? Is this what you would consider an agreement? Well, the word "settlement" has all kinds of connotations. We consider it a city. And just as Seattle is a city, so is Ma'aleh Adumim. There is some controversy in the world about what this should be and what its status is. Are you settlers? Or what do you think? How do you consider the name? I don't have a name for it. We live in Israel, this is Israel. Yes, then this is your city. -Yes, this is my country. -Exactly. Now, what is Ma'aleh, what is the Jordan Valley?

It's Israel. Everything is Israel. I've heard Israelis say, "Well, the land isn't in use anyway. It's on top of the hills." Yeah, that's... That's a good excuse, but why isn't it used? Because we are not allowed to use it. I'm sure you have a thousand dollars in your bank account and you're not using it, so it's still your money.-That's a good analogy. -Yeah. Whenever you want to use it, you want to use it. As long as you don't want to use it, you don't want to use it. It is our land. It is our right.

What would you say to an Arab who says, "This is on the other side of the line that defines the West Bank, and it's Palestinian territory, and you don't belong here?" What would you say to them? I don't know. My story doesn't go back to the line, whatever the line is. My history goes back thousands of years, and in my history this is part of Israel. Why should I leave my country? I was born and raised here. My grandfather, his grandfather, his great-great-grandfather, great-great-grandfather, great-great-grandfather, and we are still here, we did not leave. We need to find a way to fix everything, but I don't know how easy it will be and if it will be possible now.

You know that, every day, there are settlements, buildings, the wall is built and the Palestinians do nothing about it. We don't fight, we don't do anything against it. We just want to show the world that we are a people who want peace. We want to show them that we are accepting this now, because we want to show them that this is not who we are. We are people who want to achieve something. My hunch is that they have learned that there is only one future: respect Israel and not be violent. I don't know if they have learned.

I'm not convinced yet. STEVES: I'm hopeful. That's my hope. -That's my hope. -That's your hope. I think we all have hope. I don't think we've seen it yet. Those settlements are making this idea of ​​us building states on that land impossible. If you want peace, if you want a two-state solution, help us achieve it, you know? Agreements, for sure, don't help. I know this is the big million dollar question, but do you think the future, the best future, is a two-state solution or a one-state solution? -You answer. -I don't know. I'm not in politics. I am a computer programmer.

I hope, and that's part of the things I'm involved in, creating, planting seeds, hopefully, maybe 10 years, 15 years from now, people will realize the importance of living together and having a pluralistic democratic state. . You cannot make a single country with Israel and Palestine. Because it's not going to work, it's not going to work. It will not work. It will only cause war. Yes. Being here, I can see the appeal of these neighborhoods, especially for young families. But I have learned that these Israeli enclaves embitter Palestinians as much as violent resistance embitters Israelis. And many fear that the more fragmented the West Bank is by Israeli settlements, the more difficult a mutually acceptable solution to this region's problems will be to achieve.

The Palestinian perspective on the situation is illustrated by maps like this one, which show how their land holdings are shrinking since Israel's creation in 1948 with each passing decade. And there is the wall, started in 2003 by Israel to defend its border with the West Bank. The Israelis say it is a security fence, built after losing a thousand of their citizens to suicide bombers in the previous decade. And they claim that it has been effective, noting that, since its construction, there has been almost no terrorism. The Palestinians respond by saying that the wall was built under the pretext of security.

They say it is actually a land grab designed to hinder the Palestinian state. The fence or wall, which is more than 300 miles long, generally extends within Palestinian territory. And it is almost twice as long as the border it claims to defend, redesigned to secure settlements, aquifers, good farmland and sacred sites within the West Bank for Israel. While well maintained and may look attractive from the Israeli side, the wall is unfinished and demoralizing from the Palestinian side. This fight has been difficult, with murders and tragedies on both sides. While the terrorist to some may be the freedom fighter to others, the fact is that, in recent decades, both sides have suffered terribly.

Israeli Jews have been murdered by Palestinians and Palestinians have been murdered by Israelis. I can certainly understand Israel's need for security, but the walls are designed to keep people apart and, to me, that is part of the problem. I felt that the younger generations on both sides want to connect, but with this barrier, which many call "the wall of separation", people connecting to find common ground is not an option. Beyond the infrastructure of the conflict, it is the precious land that defines Palestine. Meeting our Palestinian guide, Kamal, our first stop is the Battir Nature Park, famous for its hikes through olive groves and ancient terraces.

Here in the Holy Land, the land itself is sacred to its inhabitants, and for Palestinians, the olive tree is something of a vital element to their culture. KAMAL: We are in Palestine. This is Palestine here. These are the biblical terraces of Battir. And we call them biblical because they are more than 2,000 years old. My ancestors came here and dug these terraces in the mountains. It was the only way they had to survive. You know, mountains are mountainous. You need the terraces to plant on them. They did that at the time, and guess what? We exist until today.

We are still here. Only through them. That's why I love this place. This tells me that this is my place, it tells me that this is Palestine. STEVES: What do olives mean to the Palestinian people? KAMAL: Olive trees are the best trees. They are the poor man's tree because the olive tree gives without taking away. The olive tree gives us olives without even needing us to do anything for it. It is October and throughout the country, as has been happening since ancient times, families gather in the olive groves for the harvest. The children get out of school for a week so they can work on the trees with their parents.

In the West Bank, most of the trees are olive trees. For Palestinians, the beloved olive tree represents their past and their future. They say: "Our grandparents planted it for us to eat, and we planted it for our grandchildren to eat." In nearby towns, families take their olives to the communal press to make oil. The traditional technique survives, albeit powered by hard-working machinery, while a busy crew in oil-soaked shirts meets the demands of the harvest season. Slices of olive paste are pressed into a weeping mass. The fresh oil, after filtering, turns into a golden liquid that is poured into jugs to take home.

As if emerging from those ancient olive groves, the ancient city of Hebron, with more than 200,000 inhabitants, is the largest city in the West Bank and is the vibrant commercial capital, accounting for almost a third of the entire West Bank economy. Just walking down the streets, dodging cars and mingling with people, I feel the energy of an economy that seems poised to grow. Trade spreads everywhere. Exploring the market streets, I immerse myself in Palestinian life. Experiences like these are the reason we travel. Along with all the market and trading activity comes great security and tension. This is because this city has the tomb of Abraham, so sacred to both Israelis and Palestinians.

Here, Jews literally live on top of Palestinian Muslims, as the two communities fight to be near the tomb of their common patriarch. While the town is majority Palestinian, a determined and well-protected community of several hundred Israeli settlers has guarded the high ground. The tension between the communities is illustrated by a wire net that protects the Arab food and clothing market from the garbage of the Jewish residents above. Israeli troops are stationed here in the name of security. Turnstiles and checkpoints are a way of life. A no man's land of Jewish political art decorating closed buildings divides the two communities.

And it is this sacred and complicated site: an ancient structure topped by a medieval church that now functions as a mosque and synagogue that houses the tombs of Abraham and his family. The focal point of both religions is this, the tomb of Abraham. Poignantly, access for Abraham's embattled descendants is divided by a panel of bulletproof glass. On one side of the glass, Jews worship in the synagogue, the second-holiest site in Judaism. It is enlivened with songs, studies and prayers among the tombs of its great patriarchs. The other half is a mosque, where Muslims worship before their shared patriarch with equal fervor.

Its exquisite minbar, where the imam stands to give sermons, is a rare 12th-century original, inlaid with wood and missing nails. Unfortunately, the history of this sacred place has a tragic aura. For centuries, Jews were generally not allowed to worship here. Then, after the Israeli victory in the 1967 war, the space was shared by Jews and Muslims. But during a Muslim service in 1994, an Israeli settler entered here with his gun and killed 29 Palestinian worshipers. Since then, this sacred space has been divided, emblematic of the difficult challenges that permeate the Holy Land. As a visitor traveling from Palestinian city to city on sleek modern highways, it is easy to underestimate the complexity of the region and the extent of Israeli control.

Palestinians living in the West Bank, although nominally autonomous, live under Israeli occupation. Israel has granted sections of the West Bank various degrees of autonomy. Palestinian cities are generally run by Palestinians and have their own security forces. These relatively independent islands are surrounded by areas controlled by the Israeli army. Most of the West Bank's population is in Palestinian-controlled cities, but Israel still controls most of the roads and most of the territory. If there is a problem or unrest, Israel can activate checkpoints like this throughout the country and stop all traffic in the West Bank. Within minutes, they can blockade and isolate all Palestinian cities.

Palestinian cars have green license plates. The Israelis have yellow plates. In general, most roads in the West Bank are open to all. But when times are tense, checkpoints are staffed and only yellow plates are allowed. Things are pretty calm during our visit and we can move quickly and freely, even with our green license plates, throughout the West Bank. Some of the most spectacular and evocative landscapes are found in the vast, arid Judean Desert. Hidden in the folds of the desert are legendary monasteries that, since ancient times, have provided hermits with the isolation of their dreams. Our ears become clogged as we move deeper into the desert and drop below sea level.

The road ends at the lowest place on earth, the legendary Dead Sea. Palestinians living in the West Bank do not have access to the coastal area. Officially, there is no beach, riverbank or lake in the West Bank. Israel adjusted the border to control the entire Dead Sea coast. But when tensions are low, familiesPalestinians are allowed to enjoy some Israeli resorts at the Dead Sea. As you approach any Palestinian town, a bold red sign makes it clear: you are leaving the purview of the Israeli army and entering the area controlled by Palestinian security. This comes with a checkpoint, sometimes manned, sometimes unmanned, in a simple step from the car.

Still, there is always a watchtower to remind those who come and go that Israel is keeping an eye on things. Nablus is the second largest city in the West Bank by population, with a beautiful modern center and a long history. In ancient times, the Roman emperor called it the New City: Neápolis or Nablus. The people of Nablus are relatively conservative. And immersed in the commercial commotion of this vibrant city, simply being part of the scene seemed like a powerful experience. Famous or notorious for its fighting spirit, the city has walls covered in political posters. These local youth, considered terrorists or freedom fighters depending on how you look at it, are mostly in Israeli prisons or dead.

However, they continue to live with signs celebrating their commitment to Palestinian independence. As these signs fade, I hope that what seems to me a new spirit of nonviolence in addressing the region's problems reflects a permanent shift in Palestinian strategy. A recurring symbol throughout Palestine is the key. Many cities display a large key as a reminder of a big problem here: refugees, the hundreds of thousands of Palestinians who were displaced with the creation of Israel in 1948. Here in the West Bank, more than 60 years later, many refugee camps are still It is filled with Palestinian families who fled when their land became Israel.

To this day, these people, whose parents and grandparents, thinking they would soon return home, took their keys and ran away in 1948, treasure those old keys and are happy to tell their story. MAN: Around October 19, 1948, my family was forced to leave their village. They closed their house and moved, waited two weeks and then they will return. 65 years later, we are in a refugee camp, still waiting for this return, which never happened. Two-thirds of the Palestinian people became refugees in 1948, scattered across 59 refugee camps, and most of them have these old rusty keys for doors that either already exist or don't exist.

Among the many refugee camps in the West Bank, the largest, with more than 20,000 people, is Balata, on the outskirts of Nablus. The 10' x 10' plaque survives, marking the spot where the tents were pitched in 1948. Only now the tents are gone, replaced by multi-story cinder block housing. There are refugee camps like this all over the world. Wandering these streets, I can't imagine living in such a dense population...the lack of privacy...being a parent with children and little money...the frustration of an uncertain future. For more than 60 years, the United Nations has maintained a reassuring and helpful presence.

When the UN-run and funded school closes its doors, the streets fill with children happy to practice their English with a rare traveler who ventures into their world. A women's cooperative provides training and helps launch cottage industries run by traditional artisans. And the commerce that animates the main street of the camp is like that of a city. Eran joins little Mustafa, who his mother has sent to get chicken for dinner. Around here, pride can manifest itself in small triumphs, and Mustafa returns home with dinner for the family. Life continues in these camps, while refugees wait for a solution to their difficult situation.

It's time to move on to our last stop in the West Bank. It's October and the landscape is quite brown after a scorching summer. Today's views seem timeless. In fact, I can imagine Abraham, Jesus or Muhammad going through each of these same valleys. The city of Ramallah serves as the de facto capital of Palestine. While most Palestinians consider Jerusalem their legitimate capital, so do Israelis, and sharing the city seems unlikely for now. That leaves Ramallah as the headquarters of the Palestinian government and international agencies. Next to the president's headquarters is the tomb of Yasser Arafat. While he certainly has many detractors, this Palestinian statesman, who led the PLO from 1969 to 2004, is undoubtedly the father of modern Palestine.

Call him what you want, people here celebrate Arafat as the man who did more than anyone else to raise awareness of the Palestinian struggle for independence. With its international professionals and university students, Ramallah has an almost cosmopolitan energy that is not felt anywhere else in Palestine. Whether meeting in Lions Square or strolling down an elegant shopping street, Ramallah helps me imagine a peaceful and prosperous Palestine in the future. Nearby, at Bir Zeit University, with its beautiful campus and 9,000 students, you can feel a younger generation working hard and committed. A walk around campus gives me the opportunity to connect with students and learn a little about their culture and aspirations.

Do more men or more women study at a university like this? Women, I think, women, yes. STEVES: What is it like for a woman in Palestine? They live freely, like the women of the world. Yes, we can do everything today. We can go out together, and without judging, nothing. It feels so free and beautiful here, and you have a great future, but you're living behind a wall. How is that? It's like I don't see my whole country. I can't go to Jerusalem either. I can't go to the sea. I can't see the sea. I don't know my country.

STEVES: Because it's on the other side of the wall? Yes. There was a history of violence during different struggles, but today I feel that it is recognized that violence is not a winning strategy. What do people think now in Palestine about violent resistance? For us to stay united, for us to be together, for us to be one, let's unite, you know. And this is our victory for us, to stick together, to stay together, and to never let them make us feel, in the end, that yes, accept the idea that we are the bad guys. Because we are not.

So what is the hope for the future? Of course, live in peace, have peace and be... Have your whole family close, go abroad whenever you want. We are very glad that you come and give you these points and these thoughts about us, because we know that Americans and the general public know the bad idea about us. So it is a pleasure for us to have this opportunity to express what we think and who we really are. STEVES: Free women with a good future. -Yeah. -Insha'Allah. Insha'Allah, insha'Allah. STEVES: Traveling here humanizes the Holy Land. On both sides of the wall, religious passion, historical suffering and national pride are felt.

And you meet lovely people. Good people motivated by fear and love. Land is hoarded, land is disputed, and land is the basis of dreams. Both communities have inflicted pain and both communities have endured pain. And peace is only possible when both sides move beyond the past and make real concessions. The United States is clearly a player and it is difficult to imagine a roadmap to peace in the Holy Land without American participation. There is no easy answer. However, as I travel here, I feel there is a growing understanding that neither side is going to give up, that violence is not the answer, and that everyone will be better off when dignity, security, and economic justice are provided to all.

I know the obstacles are great, but after hearing both narratives, I can imagine a peaceful and prosperous Holy Land, with a secure Israel and a free Palestine. And I have hope. In this land, so treasured by Jews, Muslims and Christians, I remember that the prophets of each of these religions taught us to love our neighbors. And the lessons learned from traveling here in the Holy Land can inspire us all to strive for that ideal. I'm Rick Steves. Until next time, keep traveling. Shalom, salaam and peace.