Recreating Leah Chase's Gumbo from Taste | Bon Appétit

Hi, I'm Sola from the v8s kitchen and we're here today to have a secret chat about Chris Morocco once again. Let's put his super

taste

r skills to the test. This is Leah Chase's Creole

gumbo

that we're challenging Chris to replicate. this dish with each ingredient in just two days you will be able to

taste

it touch it smell it but at no point will you be able to look at the dish at the end of the second day I will come back to taste your final creation and then I will be the judge hey that's the apron what's cool is what kind of tentacle is that, so I'm definitely getting a kind of seafood aroma, okay, so we have kind of like the left wing, yeah shit body, really interesting kind of spicy undertones, so we have shrimp, we have like a coin of pork sausage, this also furthers my belief that this could be

gumbo

or jambalaya, we have a lot of flavor that is being taken away from it.

Having been cooked in this working title stew situation, so the spices and nuances have been stripped away a bit, it looks like it maybe has a bit of smoke, it's a bit hard to tell. I feel like traditional sausage. in a dish like this it would be andouille sausage, wow if anything about the texture of this it's like not just like standard meat, it's like organs like gizzards, I have no idea what that was, the texture was meaty, no, bacon, something dry, but it really has almost no flavor of its own. I don't know, that scared me a little.

Wow, slippery little suckers, huh. Oh, eat that flavor where the trash was. Oh, it tasted like a hard, limp liver nugget. He ate that shrimp, very big. And now? Looks like I have a pocket of braised meat that I'm tentatively calling pork shoulder, so now we have another sausage, oh my gosh guys, this one actually has a little bit of spice to it, a little bit of bite to it, so we need to kind of of one inch very spicy sausage, so the other one was a little bit milder, like a soft and moist like a kielbasa, something like that, we also need a kind of very spicy sausage like cayenne, smaller, that's it. a chicken neck I don't have a frame of reference for what this is no, it's so flexible and so tender, although soul, are you back there?

What do you know about a ponytail? Lots of fat, very chewy, okay, at first I thought, oh, this is like chicken? neck, but they feel too big to be a chicken on the back, they're burly, right, yeah, I'm not okay, this little number, this seat feels like it almost feels like it doesn't have it anymore here we have like another bony thing with like something rich in fat around it Oh chicken wing, sorry I'm back so now I'm getting to where there's a lot of texture, I don't know that's scaring me, it feels like a piece of like fat this and this I'll give you one we'll do it together how about that what does it taste like it doesn't taste like anything it's that salty cheese Oh guys waste this is an exercise now I'm just taking a bite? of the thing, so the flavor is actually a little more understated than perhaps I was initially led to believe.

I'm getting all the flavors of the meats. I say there's probably like onion and garlic, maybe a little green pepper. It's spicy like a Creole seasoning, you know, there's a little touch of dried red chili, spicy, lots of pepper, salt, could it be another ruse? Itchy, I feel like from past experiences, you know, jambalaya or gumbo is thickened with Feli powder, it's like ground sassafras leaves, which is like a thickening agent but without being crazy and the rice is obviously a little bit hydrating while it's cooking , so I'm going to lean on it like it's not Roux, but maybe a thickening agent of some kind that I would call this jambalaya and let's say maybe Emeril, okay, I think I'm done here, I need to be ready to take off the blindfold , ready to live my life in terms of our protein shopping list, we have crab, some medium shrimp, two pork sausages, pretty sure.

That was liver because I had a very violent reaction. You gizzard his kidney. No, it will catch both if we're looking at a flat-winged ponytail and then an oyster. What happened? No, they locked me out of my house. What I have. an emerger just ate so much organ meat and liked slippery bits of seafood and liked to do different things, it's like a farmyard and like a tide pool on one plate, pig tails, I've never had a pigtail or maybe or hobbits, was part of an animal. I eat under the cross, which I didn't like, bite the bone, it was rice, that was rice, it was very loose, it was like thick, it was tight, it was tight, it's your chicken inside, yes, there are wings, wings, this It's not jambalaya. it's someone's jumbo it's a goulash this is like these a rodeo on your plate this is wild I think it's something that someone just ripped all this out and made a vegetable goulash okay I have a go back to work okay this is exciting right, real quick because I have to go with onion, garlic, maybe like a chili and dried paprika kind of situation, I feel great with rice accent, so I'm going to take my list, go to the supermarket and see what I can find there. at least one green pepper option.

I'm going to get a couple of chiles for sure. Let's get some garlic and onion spices. I have hot paprika and sweet paprika. I feel like a powder would definitely be in the spice section, but it could. I'd be wrong if it was that easy Essence of Emeril we have to get this let's look at the sausages so I'm going to get andouille wings chicken liver by far my least favorite thing on the plate so we'll need some of seafood. Hi how? Could you give me half a pound of wild shrimp, please? And you could also give me four Easter eggs that really take care of most of our protein, plus a pigtail and possibly sweetbreads or other oddly textured organ meats.

I'm also going to get some whole. I peeled just a couple small cans of whole peeled tomatoes that I also pureed while we're here, let's look at the rice. I think honestly what we want is basic long grain white rice AF, that's it, I think that's it, we're done. Well, we just got back from the supermarket. I've been trying to organize my thoughts on what sequence to put all of these ingredients in a pot. I have a lot of time pressure. I see myself having a fun drink, mmm. so I'm going to make the stir-fry. The sofrito is like your aromatic vegetable base.

Usually a combination of punya, garlic, capsicum, it could be celery and carrot depending on what you are making. I'm going to go with a combination of green pepper and then jalapeno. that I'm going to plant, I'm simply going to pulse the base of my sauce. I just want it to be super fine and I want to cook it until it's kind of like a paste. I want this stir fry to end up as close to a paste, this will take a little time to cook so I just want to set it aside in a separate pot here.

I'm going to start browning some of that meat, develop a little bit of affection so then we can deglaze a little bit it's going to be great don't worry so I've got chicken neck with a pigtail and veal gizzards so the supermarket won't It had these ingredients. I ordered them and our intrepid culinary team was out looking for them in no time. or they just had them in the back and they're totally with me. I'll never know this is like a nice smoked sausage, you know, hopefully a pretty spicy andouille sausage and then this is a kielbasa, also a smoked sausage, this is a combination of beef and pork I just want the flat part of the chicken neck.

Throw in a couple of these to make the pigtails turn out to be a little bigger than you expected. What I had on the original plate was not a pigtail, it looks much more like mini oxtails. Probably looking back now what I tasted and felt was chicken neck and it seems like a richer, darker meat, you know, and maybe it takes on that richer, more ground up texture that I was experiencing. I don't know, I mean, it's a real kind of mind now. So I gave the sausage a little bit of color and then I'm going to continue browning these things here, just putting a little bit of each of these peppers in, so this is the time where if I wanted to use flour and create, you know. kind of like a roux, but you have a roux and then you feel powdery.

I mean, it's nothing like feeling a fuck, it's something I can taste. I'm going to try not to make the flour today, how about that? So I was only kind of halfway there. can of tomato now I want to cook this, we'll see how this one does today in terms of any changes tomorrow. I'm going to start preparing this with a little bit of water. I'm going to deglaze like those brown bits on the bottom. from the pot and cook so you can even see the color of the water as we deglaze them, you know, the bits of water are taking some of the color out of our browned meat, that's all good and then what you could do right now. put it in half so that it gives us something like that oh hello friend, so I have shrimp.

I'm going to throw the shrimp directly into the stew. I'm shucking an oyster, although I'm not doing a very good job there. we just want to keep it intact and in its own liquor. I assume it's a blue crab. They are going to go to the weight of our lake. We'll cook them and Hansie will tell me how long, 8 to 10 minutes. 8 to 10 minutes, so this is our kielbasa, our beef and pork mix, what do you know about jambalaya? Okay, it seems like I'm not the right person through that person who is consulting here, sorry, okay, that's a good intestinal check, thank you ma'am, let's roll. these, let's see where we are, the crabs are outside, the rice has to go, we will cook it a little in time, without putting a lot of rice, so this is chicken liver, I don't have big beef with like chicken liver mousse or whatever, but just the liver hanging like a fart in a car.

I don't need those shrimp that just came in. I just want to poach them here. The livers are just coming in. I have so little time that it's like no. It's even funny, okay, we'll leave this alone for a few minutes, okay, cool waste is coming, they'll splash it around, so this is my first version of the dish. Not bad for the first crack, there is a lot. of flavor here I think I have most of the elements. I wonder if there might be an herb. You know, there's always the possibility of another spice or something.

I wonder about the location of the rice. If that feels good. I do not hate it. this actually, but maybe it will make better sense when I try the dish again tomorrow morning correct ingredients I'll give myself a taste appearance of 82 I'll give myself a solid 85 there maybe even an 86 here's where I'll put myself at 70 I feel like these things could be added in any kind of order, two pots could be put together into one, everything could be thrown into one pot and put together like the look of Doc Baulkham's tongue-like nose. I'll give myself a 78 I mean, there's a crab sticking out of a bowl and there's a bunch in it.

I didn't like putting a hamburger here. You know, I'm kind of waiting for that stupid score to show up there, so that's what it says. I have a 79 percent average or C+, this is my first chance, but I have one more chance to try the dish tomorrow before I have to make a final version for Sola and I'm a little scared, well, let's get into it. Okay, so we have our crab here. I just want to see if I can determine if there might be something on the surface. Okay, so I have an herb here and I'm going to call it parsley.

It was like mine. this is like the nugget of doom that now tastes like a slightly dry piece of chicken thigh. I'm guessing they're probably not gizzards, they just don't have any flavor, but if I had to say you know, maybe I'll make some. like boneless skinless chicken thigh and roll it up so we have our very smoky spicy and that's it, we had our mild sausage earlier, we have shrimp of course we have a chicken neck so it looks like you guys gave me some drum apps today like this actually has flavor, it tastes like a piece of pork shoulder.

Wow, that wing was like it was falling apart. I feel like it must have been stewing there for a while. I think there's a reasonable question to ask in terms of how he was. this wing possibly just fell into the stew and didn't brown ahead of time. Same with the pork shoulder. I don't know in terms of how I envisioned this dish being constructed, it still makes sense to me to brown the meat that way. you want it to brown one thing that tells me the sausage certainly likes to spend a decent amount of time in the liquid to see how the skin of the sausage is kind of cupped that way it's only going to do that when it's sliced ​​and then added to the liquid which tightens the casing and makes the sides stick out like this, giving it that little dip there, the texture of the rice here is perfect, I think now that this rice has been cooked on the side, not really anywhere so different from where it was yesterday in terms of flavors.

I'm wondering if there are any other herbs I could put with my type of chili, there's something about that, the interaction with that type of broth, I was thinking. dried oregano I think I'm good, okay, maybe let's do our aromatic base here, let's sweat some meat, so I have boneless pork shoulder. This wasn't easy yesterday, but only because I forgot to use it yesterday I decided to go. Go ahead and brown the meat, the chicken wings. I feel like we could upload them. They're very attached to some seafood, obviously, you know, it makes sense to drop it at the end, so II took out without thinking. too hard because I have a certain amount of affection for this pot but it's a disc bottom pot so it has multiple layers of metal just in the center of the bottom so you get stupid hot spots around the edge but you don't know cooks very evenly by not being on it before I build too much bond in the pot that really bothers me I just want to transfer change course you know you feel something is wrong I have to do something about it right away so we don't go crazy trying putting like this masses of color on this meat just like sweat, some of that fat becomes a little bit more fun, so I have my mild kielbasa and then I have my smoked and spicy andouille sausage.

I don't know why I'm eating such It's difficult with those like the small and meaty ones, no, I don't know if I'm making it much more complicated than necessary, so I have my aromatic base, it's going to pulse, so we have our aromatic base in the pot. He's getting all that love. I don't want to rush. I want to cook it in water and then I want to give it a light brown color and super concentration. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Holy Trinity refers to onion garlic and then pepper and green pepper specifically onion celery pepper what is that?

Oh, you did good with the celery. Do I need to put some celery in here? Yeah, okay, give me some celery broth, quick, quick, quick, I have to get it in there. I don't usually put celery in my aromatic bases, but it's easier because I don't mind having it at home. Okay, that's the celery, so I have a little bit of hot paprika, sweet paprika and a little bit of black. pepper oregano now that's giving me a taste this is a tomato puree just coming in we're going to cook it again very hard look how concentrated the tomato is it almost turns into you know a kind of paste that's good as if the tomato was cooked We are not going to have any more of that type of ECAM tomato flavored can for cooking tomatoes, it is something I firmly believe in.

I firmly believe that at this point we can also add this type of long-cooked meats. I put a chicken thigh in there. I'm going to see how it goes, let's let this situation simmer, lower the heat, simmer, I'll probably check in an hour, so I'll cut up some sausage and put it in along with our crabs. I want to continue go ahead and steam our little friends there today the rice is cooking separately I want a little more heat here great so we're peeling the shrimp crab liver pretty good maybe just a pinch of salt and then the liver and the shrimp You can come in and then I think we're basically there, so we have to break from our normal format for the show, which is that normally on the second day I cook the dish twice, but because this dish takes a little bit of time to cook, today I'm just making a version of the dish I have to serve for stole, so unfortunately there's no time, but those are the breaks and I think everything will be fine with rice on the bottom, these are waste that we shelled this morning. parsley there you have it Crazy Gumbo by Emeril Lagasse how do you like apples four ingredients It would give me eighty-three flavor I'm going to use the eighty-six technique ooh, let's call this appearance 84 88 so that it averages 85 No I don't think I'll to get an 85 from Sola, she doesn't even give herself an 85.

I'm really curious to know who the developer of this dish was, what it's called and how it's actually made and what the ingredients are. Here we are. Okay, let me get into it, so it's like it's really hard, okay, done, so yeah, Chris, okay, I want to introduce you to Leia Chase's Creole gumbo from Dooky Chase Restaurant. I mean, they look really close, look, that's the ham, that's it. the cube was oh, that's the cube, how did the cube get you to the chicken thigh? Not really, yes. I put in like half a chicken thigh and then I saw how it behaved and I don't even want to acknowledge the fact that it's even in there I thought it was gizzards you thought about the bucket of gizzards it did have like an organ and yeah you know what I mean I mean tonight together yeah sure that doesn't taste like ham it doesn't taste like ham she just said it doesn't taste like him, but like crab, crab, shrimp, shrimp, you have sausage.

Leah Chase is the Creole queen and this is a recipe from Giudices restaurant, so it's gumbo, it's gumbo. I'm so glad you're back from the jambalaya trip, so let's give it a try. the original is fine and then the crispy persian is a pretty light gumbo, sure there is no ceiling, no, no, there is no space, ah, there is a rule here, there is fili powder, there is fili powder, this does not have the consistency of something with space, yes. I feel like it's just there to give it flavor and depth. I'll make you a perfect bite of this.

Okay, ready. I'll just have you try the block. I mean, you'll get everything you need from me. I like to sit there and eat the proteins, no, it's okay, it sounds full-bodied and I was worried that it felt like there was too much body, you know, my aromatic base has tomato. Oh, yes, I put I, yes, I probably use that body as a spirit, like a small amount of puree, as if it were a hard cooked ingredient. It seems like you did pretty well, what sausages, what proteins, what little animal delicacies you chose, pork shoulder, pork shoulder, okay, I think that was the most difficult ingredient, which was actually sick beef, which relieves , I feel like I haven't seen an offer in years.

I was impressed and then had an andouille sausage. I had a kielbasa or a soft sausage, you know, composed, the judges will do that. allow it, then I had the perfect chicken neck, I had chicken wings crushing it, I ate crab, you have the crabs, they never shit, well, they didn't calm everyone down, shrimp, shrimp, pepper, they were gizzards. I thought I was so close, so close though, are you golden? liver too and I know you don't put it in that I just slept well, can you tell me about your procedure? I browned my pork shoulder, chicken wing, raised some honey and then had an aromatic base on top of that paprika.

Oregano with black pepper I didn't end up using dried thyme just oregano, oh, so close to that moment, so close, there was time, it's about time, I'm almost in some tomato puree on top of that and then I used water. just because your order of operations was not correct nothing is ground yes all the brown flavor comes from the medium brown room yes interesting ok the way this creole gumbo is made so start by putting the gizzard of beef with crab sausage, all in a pot without oil. and then in the meantime in another pan it will make your room have no aromatic base, once you have your room nice and dark, the onion gets in there, don't worry, then that Roux onion situation is poured on top of your steamed crab and sausage.

Okay, add water slowly stirring all the time so the root dissolves and then add all the proteins. Wow, everything just goes in there and then the oysters go in for the last bit just so they like to warm up, is there a frico? there's hot paprika, okay, so you got it, I mean, I would never have done it this way, it would never ever have occurred to me to do it better than ever, so it's time for the score, okay, your favorite part, yeah, although I feel like beef for pork like whatever that was was impossible well we'll let it pass the weird cubes those cubes don't taste like anything thanks okay I appreciate who cares how much they hate that but maybe the biggest mistakes were the adding stuff, sure, so how do you feel about a solid low B?

Yes, look 82% more. I know it took me a long time to let you know that the taste is excellent. I mean, if you close your eyes and take, I mean tomato. despite taste, taste a little bit, a little bit of savory taste of that, uh, 95%, this is a great technique. Oh, technique, technique, Oh God, they all come scratches, okay, I mean, I can carry it. 65% of the technique was very far away, yes, it appears in addition to the tomato and as if there is a little more body here, they look more or less the same, how do you feel?

About 87 percent, yes, why is that so? That's tabulated at 82 percent, oh my gosh, okay, that's my way of eating, much more respectable than I would have thought, this one really was. complicated and it was complicated, you know everyone is complicated, but this was so unexpected. Thank you, hey, thank you, I really appreciate it, thank you really, every day, no real final thoughts, this is hard. I definitely learned something here by making the dish. the way I did it there I definitely wouldn't have had time to do it all over again, but now I know what's frustrating for me is that I still get really close to a lot of things, but there's always something, whether it's an ingredient or a technique that It's not immediately obvious and it ends up biting me in the butt and I don't want to be bitten in the butt anymore.

I feel like we're a long way from being done with the types of dishes that would be appropriate for this. Like there are so many different cuisines, you know, we haven't even touched each other and we're looking forward to the next challenge that made the female fin of hers pass, you know, it's a male, we're in uncharted territory. I'll show you how to turn it over again. This one looks like it and that's it, that's the male, that's it, but a little fun fact, crab, yeah, just so you know, cool.