REBUILDING A WRECKED BMW M3 THAT CRASHED INTO A HOUSE

this damage was caused by a wall of a

house

and after it

crashed

into the

house

of course I bought it no and this M3 was left with some serious damage to the front, the interior and mainly the rear oh Oh my goodness, but before you buy it. any part of this car. I wanted to be 100% sure that this damage was actually repairable, so I called him an expert. What's up dude? We call you for your experience and knowledge. Ah, liar, is this repairable for repairable sake? You mean like after you? cut it, can you repair it or fix it, yes, I mean after cutting it, can it be repaired?

Yes, everything can be repaired, which is exactly what I wanted to hear now that we can start working on making this all happen. These little separate worlds here, can you see them? Look at the place. The world. The world. there's a lot of damage to be done, let's do it, we'll worry about that rear quarter later in the video, for now let's take this hood off and any time you have damage to the hood of a car, it's always good to replace the hinges as well. especially on this BMW because it has that passenger protection system, this little device here, you can see me pushing down, that pushes the back of the hinge up to protect a pedestrian if you ever hit them, but to access the hinges we have to Remove this Scuttle panel along with the wiper blades and now we can get to the system that is bolted to the hinge.

Because they are deployed, we will have to replace not only the protection system but also the hinges. They can actually be reset after they blow up with the pedestrian protection system and someone said why don't I do that to save money? Well, even if I like to slide it down and then clip it back over that little knob. There you can see this hinge, it's folded nicely like it's an accessory that needs to be nice back there, so if we're lining up the hood, it's just not worth it, let's just get new hinges and stop being a cheap skid last time. that we try. find out exactly how this BMW ended up in a house and this time we have new pictures.

This is CCTV from one of the houses on the street and if you look in the top right corner you can see the BMW fly past and enter the house. and what's even better than that, I actually emailed a recreation of the accident, including the speed they were going, and they were also going pretty fast towards this house property, ah, that's what happened now, just we have to rebuild it, so there is still more. Damage to the front of the car. Both front fins are damaged. The front bumper. The headlights and who knows what else. When we start tearing this thing apart, there are even little things that you forget about, like the parking sensors and the wiring, which have been broken. but at this stage it's just a case of taking everything apart and trying to find everything that's damaged so we know we can replace it.

The left headlight is definitely no longer useful to us and there are parts of the house insulation inside the light. and on the driver's side headlight which is also broken so that will also need to be replaced and now we can move on to removing the front wing or fender, if you are American some of the wing bolts are in difficult places . but in general most BMWs are all the same and as we have worked on a few it is now quite easy to locate where the bolts are once we remove the wing we can see exactly what is damaged again.

Everything here looks great, but we did it. I don't expect there to be any damage here, maybe it's bent, but I think it will work again, that will work again, wouldn't that be the next step? There is some brick in the front. Pat, this should come out in one piece, I think. We should be able to get it out just by moving it back, what does that mean? Well, first of all, it's the tie rods and then we have to remove the clips that hold the intake tube to the radiation pack. Ethan demonstrates it pretty well here, oh.

After that, there are four large bolts that remove it from the frame. The next step hoses we are disconnecting everything that is connected from the radiator pack to the engine and the chassis of the car. There are two hoses on this side for this small radiator, a lower hose for the main one. radiator and the same on the other side and to get more access to it we have to remove this tray underneath which also works as a strut mount and now we can remove the two bolts at the bottom that connect the radiator pack to the front. subframe and the four big bolts that also connect the radiation pack to the chassis legs of the car, after that we should have everything clear, we just need to move it away and make sure we actually disconnect everything, oh there is one, yes, then screen.

A shield was installed to remove the windshield, which will be useful for some work we will do later in the video. Greetings guys, this is the rad package and it contains each and every radiator on the car at the front. Sometimes it's easier to go through each individual piece and order it separately and it may be cheaper, but in this case and especially in this case, I get a better deal by ordering the complete complete piece because I have this one. front radio package which is pretty perfect, has all the parts, it was from CTIC which is a salvage yard and they were breaking down a BMW M3 with damage to the rear so I got lucky here and have a lot of parts. on a pack for my M3 all I have to do now is put this radical pack on which should be as easy as taking it off we'll see it's a huge savior being able to buy something like this because I generally thought I'd have a hard time getting something like this when I first bought the car because it is very new.

I bet it's not worth 7 billion, but it's definitely worth doing a little more research and asking Breakers Yards if they have anything on the car. that you are

rebuilding

even if it doesn't show up online now I have the radiator package roughly in place. I'm connecting all the electrical connections like the front fans and then all the cooling hoses, making sure to connect the hood. Drop the wire to the new rad pack that includes the hood locks and then connect the hoses for the auxiliary radiators on the left and right side of the car. Once this is done, we can start placing all the bolts that connect the rad.

Pack this chassis up here and the front subframe not forgetting even more electrical connectors, then I can push the intake part back into place and put those clips back on that EP that was removed and it looks pretty good, it's starting to look new already or new. new second hand links in the description now everything is connected on the front bar two things so here is the oil cooler that always gets bumped and bruised and here are the oil lines that go to it and they were twisted. I had to cut them in the last video so we can avoid the oil cooler well, this line actually goes here and this line here actually goes there.

I need two new oil lines that haven't arrived from BMW yet, so we're waiting on them and that's the latest. We need to hook up for this to work and then we can change the oil and make sure everything is okay, but there's more to fit. This piece of foam goes on the front of the crash bar here and actually serves a purpose. this little tube that goes down here into those little senses that I told you about, that if this gets hit and the hose gets squeezed, then that pedestrian protection system in the front explodes and literally all that's holding this up is you. , just do this and that's it, not a great time, now headlights, our worst enemy, the chances of them working are very slim now, normally what I do with headlights and I advise anyone to do it is just check the part number of your own headlight and get the exact same one, no point in taking the risk, but guess what I took a chance. 644 802 starts completely different with a nine.

I hope this works. I'm going to plug this one in, we've never had a good experience plugging it in. in second hand headlights, but let's see what happens with these second hand headlights, there were 900 for the pair, okay, I think so, it's not the most expensive set of headlights I've ever had, but they're not cheap, I don't see if works. great moment, oh we're on, no lights, no lights, nothing, nothing at all, nothing fantastic, £900 in the bin, no lights, nothing. I just wanted to remove the second hand headlights and put the original ones back in just to see if they worked that's a good test I like it that's smart that's also a pain and they worked what's the difference unless they're doing just the cod I could change them but I don't think they're going to make a difference I don't think they are Worth a try for £900 yes so I had to resort to the last resort of changing all the little ballasts on the back of the headlight.

I'm actually not sure this makes much of a difference, but it's worth a try. It never worked before, but that doesn't mean it won't work. Now I swapped out all of these modules, but I have a lot of doubts because I think all they do is just turn on the LEDs. I have many, very, many doubts, but let's say it. it actually works no way i did that job that never worked before never no that never worked before this yeah i can't believe it worked no way that never worked before okay, I stated it, let's do the other one before we get too excited, I manifested that, you manifested it, I manifested it, here you go, guys, manifest it and it works.

All I have to do now is declare that the back is fixed. I can't believe that actually worked, maybe one of you could tell me why. it worked yeah, I still can't figure it out now let's modify them oh yeah, yeah, look at that, that could have gone right in. I'm going to remove this little board here with the LED inside. the module, once I've removed it, I'll apply some of this paste to stick a new board that I got from Auto ID and we'll wait for it to dry, after that I'll move on. to the back of the headlight and remove the module from it and once you have it out, take the plate off the module being very careful with it and then apply the new plate which I also got from Auto ID I think.

This will be a pretty cool mod, but we have to wait for it to dry while we wait for the glue on those modules to dry. I have a few more things in my deal. I also managed to get a hood and a wing. or Fender if you're American and another Wing or Fender if you're American now these are wrapped uh this is wrapped in gray, but somehow I've been so unpredictable and it's the same red-orange as the car I have. I just have to unwrap it. I already unwrapped that wing. Let's unwrap this and then I can start attaching the two wings.

In fact, we could build the entire front end. This will be a record time when purchasing parts of a. You can usually get a good deal if you're buying a lot of scrap cars, so as well as buying the radiation package and headlights, I got a really good deal on the front wings and bonnet too, and I was lucky. For me it was enough that they were the same color as the car, the only thing is that I first had to remove the wrap that was on them, but luckily under the wrap the paint was fine so we could get away with not having to paint this.

Once the wrapping is removed, I can start attaching the wing on the right side. Unfortunately I didn't get a front bumper in the deal, but you'll see why in a minute, once I put this wing on, I was able to snap the washer bottle into place, which sits inside the wing and secures with a single bolt. after the modules board has dried so you can plug them back in and place them on top of the headlight, tighten them and then connect the ones that fit in the back. in and tighten them up and we're about to see if this modification actually pulls off here, come on, great moment, oh look, just put the side lights on, just put the side lights on, is it working?

Yeah, that one, look at that yellow look. I know some people. they're going to come out why would you do that but that seems mental yellow drls oh that's great wait wait wait wait full effect full effect full effect oh look at that at night he's going to look sick I like it yeah good news you don't Me love it, it's legal, it's legal, it's legal, are you the police? It looks so cool again. I think it's those little extra touches that will really make this car work when we finally get it back on the road.

As for the wiring, some of the parking sensor wires have been pulled out of the connectors at the front, so rather than buying a whole new loom, which is quite expensive, I figure I'll just splice the wires into the my little one's front slider. I then slid the soldering rod over a connector I had left over on the unit and when I use my heat gun on this little solder sleeve, it will heat it up and melt the solder, creating a good connection. Now some people don't like it. the appearance of the front bumperstandard on these and I have to agree with you, the front nostrils are quite difficult to get used to, but when I went to Auto ID they told me there was a solution for that and I think they are right.

This is the Adro bumper, an idea for cars from Adro dealers in the UK and I think this bumper will drastically change the front end of this car for the better and I don't think we will get the full effect until it is painted for now. I have to see if it fits right so I'm putting all the wiring from the parking sensor I just repaired into the back of the adro bumper and then I can put it back in place. Many thanks to Auto Rd for this when they approached me to help with the modifications to this build, of course I'm not going to say no.

I'll be mad for now, the adro bo bumper is on, it's a 10 out of 10 from me. look at this it looks wild, it looks unreal, I think it's a definite improvement, again, there will probably be people who say oh no, I prefer the original, but how can you not like it? I know it's not orange or red or whatever the color of the car is right now, oh that looks evil, it looks absolutely evil in more mods. It wouldn't be me without upgrading the car and

rebuilding

it to get rid of those ugly tie rods we have. some carbon stays from Keys or Kiz.

I'm not sure how to pronounce it. These will simply replace your old, ugly braces and look much better doing so. I always like to add the odd upgrade when rebuilding these cars just to give an extra touch to a regular BMW M3 and I'm sure there will be many more upgrades throughout this entire rebuild. It is a very upgradable car. Another sensational modification in my opinion, but you guys can leave me. know in the comments section below now it's time for the hood and with the hood of course I got the new hood hinges normally to line up a hood and get the panel lines right it's pretty complicated but for now I'm just going to use the witness marks where it was originally screwed to roughly put it into place once the hinges are in place it's time for the new passenger restraint system which screws onto the hinges and then the electrical connector goes on.

You can clip on both sides and then I got to work removing all the old wrap and that's pretty much a done job for the front. I've had guys from The Body Shop come and paint my cars and tell me that's basically what I shouldn't have done. You cut this all out, which is probably fine because the idea is to take this out with all the panels attached to try to get this line pretty nice before you start removing the quarter panels and everything else. Look at the contraption I've set it up so it's going to go to a strong part of this chassis rail over there, the pump goes over here and then to a strong part of the room and then I'm going to inflate it and try to push this out like Lo as far as you can to get this Gap nice, even moving here the idea is to get the panels as straight as possible before you start cutting into the rear quarter that way we can have a pretty good idea of ​​what part of the car can be save. and what part of the car we really need to cut, we're also going to get a good contact surface for all the new panels that go in and you can see how far the car actually moves when the guys are pushing. spin it around in the back every now and then we'll have a pretty clear idea, look at this, what a difference it makes to throw it away.

I really wish we hadn't cut it, but now we know for next time because okay, it really helped the pull. On the whole panel, we have almost a nice space here, it's a little bit bigger here, but that's because of all this damage, but now we have space on the back and we can see which parts of the fragment have been written. and then what parts are we going to save so in AR shining we can save and now I think we can save this parcel shelf, everything has been removed and doing so means that we don't have to do a lot of welding on this side, which is what we don't we wanted to do, so now we have made progress here, but that is not the work we want to continue at the moment, all the airbags inside the car need to be changed every single one has deployed, but to do that I need to be able to open the doors, so I have to put the wheels on, but that takes me to the back and that's why I have this arm here, remember in the first video we found. that only one arm was bent on the back so all I'm going to do is put this arm in to see if the wheel is straight, put the wheel in and I should be able to drive it forward enough to be able to open the doors. and place the board, so this is going to be pretty interesting first.

I still need to remove more trim and damaged heat shields that are on the back. Now we can have full access to that bent arm. I already unscrewed it from the rear subframe. I just have to unscrew it from the actual wheel hub and these fun looking washes here are there so we can adjust the wheel tip in and out, but we'll worry about them when we get to aligning the wheels now that I just have to put the new rear trailing arm on and put the more or less correct washers that control the handbrake and it's broken, slapped so I just put a new one on and the electronic handbrake is broken it's just plastic and it's broken . off the actual clamp, I just got to one.

Screw on the broken caliper parts and then screw on the new electronic parking brake. All this is a motor that rotates the caliper piston outward to hold the brake pads at the rear. The disc effectively does the work of the handbrakes, but electronically now I can put the steering wheel and I can see if everything is aligned correctly and from here it looks good. Moment of truth, we want to move forward with this. In fact, let's check the truck right then. It looks like this sound is playing I think we're good look how crazy this thing looks yeah, yeah, yeah, oh yeah, it's a little pointy, isn't it?

Yeah, that's definitely it, but yeah, I did it. I can tow it. I just got that armor on it has adjustments that I showed, but now we can open the doors and it's time to do all these airbags, obviously we have to replace an entire dash because the passenger airbag is split into the dash over here and you can I didn't repair this, there is a weak spot in the board and when it explodes it can't be repaired anymore, so we had to replace the entire board. Luckily I got a second one and £450, that's not too bad.

I don't think it didn't include it. airbags I had to buy the airbags the airbags didn't include airbags and you also bought them separately oh my goodness, well that's a plus. I could return an airbag because airbags were around £700 for a second hand one. there so we saved £900 on the headlights we're on a roll we're on a roll this is a series of three like a normal series of three but I think it's the same but we'll find out the first step is to remove the seats. I always tend to do this when I do airbags, it just gives you a little more room to move around the car, especially when all the airbags are deployed, that's one driver's seat out and the passenger seat now has a lot space to continue the work.

I'm going to start with the curtain airbags, the ones I hate the most are the pillar moldings and the curtain airbags are just clipped onto the actual frame of the car, but the clips are very powerful and are very difficult to remove. but once you have them out, this is what the device looks like on the new curtain airbag that was purchased from BMW freshly made with new clips ready to go. All I have to do with this is plug in the electrical connector. There are two bolts that hold the actual explosive device to the frame of the car and then the rest are on clips and it's exactly the same for the right side of the car as well and voila, we can push back the headliner and move it.

Let's move on to the next thing, there, okay, the curtain airbags are in place, it's a horrible job, but that's it, the next step is to remove these seat belts because they are completely locked, oh, that one is not, oh, you know why? It could be why you think because the passenger was not driving normally, so these seat belts lock, so when the airbag deploys, you stay in the same place; Otherwise, if it does not block, what would happen is that you advance the airbag. it would deploy and then just KO you on the wheel so they would lock and keep you in the same place.

Did you know what I did know is that we can send them to a company and then reset them and have new airbags. The air bag device that SC put on them, which is what I plan to do because it saves a lot of money, so I'll get these canisters out and we'll ship them, then we can get on the board. another off, yes, Ju. Just in case, just in case, because I feel like I should have been blocked. The only reason I can think of that the other seat belt has not locked is because the passenger was not wearing the seat belt. or there just wasn't a passenger I guess we'll never know but now that I removed the trim I can access the bolts that hold the seat belt in place, I remove them and send them off and we do the exact same thing for the passenger side though seems fine, just want to make sure the seat belts are off.

The next step is the big one. The center console has to come out because the dashboard has to come out. I thought I could get away with just taking the dash out and leaving the center console in, but when we look at the old dash, there's a bolt that holds it there and there was something there, but whoever took it out broke it, so, yeah, The center console has to come out here, we continue. For the big one, the board, there's no way around it, we have to do it first. It is the trim on the back of the center console.

Once I removed it, I can access the two 10 mil bolts that bolt the center console together. the frame of the car, then I'm going to go to the cup holder, remove the trim and then I can see the other two 10 ms that hold the center console to the frame of the car again. I have never worked on one of these BMWs. M3 never before, so most of this is just guessing and using common sense on where I think the bolts are that will attach on this board. We haven't managed to remove the center console from the dash yet because we think there are some. hidden bolts behind it but my dad is trying to figure that out while I start taking apart this dash with a screen in the middle and then the instrument cluster has to take out all the fans because behind the fans there are usually hidden bolts that I can lift up.

The trim behind the steering wheel has more bolts to remove the instrument cluster and behind the instrument cluster even more bolts, but the nice thing about this BMW is that they have actually used the same bolts to hold the dash together, making it Es much easier to organize them all and determine where they went. I removed the knee airbag from under the steering wheel. Here's a bolt on the top of the dash that would have been very difficult to get to if we had that windshield. Again, many thanks to the screen protector for removing our screen, which has made this job much easier.

Now we move on to the left side, where my dad is doing two bolts on the side, one bolt on the top of the board. some underneath and then a lot more inside the glove box, it never ends, the dash still wouldn't move, so we removed this trim at the top of the dash, which revealed a set of speakers and, you guessed it, a lot more bolts, oh No. My dad dropped one of them, but we managed to find it. Next is a steering wheel air bag that comes out of the steering wheel and then you can loosen the large bolt that holds the steering wheel to the steering wheel column that we're going to tape up. the clock goes into place to keep it from spinning and breaking, then I'm going to start taking the steering column apart so we can put the dash on it and then I think we finally figure out where the last two bolts are where I think we're at the last two bolts that go through this little hole in the back for some reason BMW put them there, the rest is very easy and of course the last two are going to be a blast. space there, hey, the dashboard is out, there's a lot of stuff in here, considering we just took out the entire dashboard, there's still a lot of stuff, head-up display, steering column, all this metal frame, so these are the screws that they held. the real board, if we have something left over at the end, we haven't done it very well and we give it a small score out of 10, now we are going to subtract two from this because the new board has two broken parts. off, so if we have two left at the end, that still counts as a score of 10 out of 10, as I see it, more than two, then we have a problem, here is the old board and these are the little fragments here that were It's really hard to get and the other guy who listed this on eBay obviously found it really hard and sohard he just broke it.

Oh, we also removed that part, so we'll have one, two, three screws left. Because she was nice, buddy, let's go with the new dash and the new passenger side airbag. We're trying to do this as quickly as possible now to remember where all those bolts were that we just removed and are. doing it pretty well, it's a lot easier when two of you are at work, my dad remembered where the bolts were on the left side and I remembered where everything goes on the right side of the car. It's teamwork with everyone. the air vents, the steering column trim and the instrument cluster, which I had to remove several times because there were other things I had to screw on first here's the airbag, oh yeah and it's like new here's the knee airbag, the knee airbag just goes underneath Well, where your knees go and there are two 10 mil bolts that hold it in place, as they would say in France.

That means I'm done, look at that, and we have three bolts left over as predicted. I forgot to film that part, but you. I'm going to have to take my word for it, it works, look at all this, the dashboard is lit, that's lit, all this is lit, that's lit, it's cool and everything works. I wish I had the bucket seats on this one but I think I really think bucket seats are very expensive but we tore it apart in a matter of a couple of hours. All airbags are now installed, including the curtain airbags. The only thing we are missing are the seat belts.

We'll have to wait to return, but there's more: the oil cooler lines have come from BMW. Now we should be able to install them and finish the entire front end in one go if only this job was As easy as it seemed at first, I'm going to drain the oil that's inside the engine, which is pretty easy to do, and then these two Oil cooler lines are in a place I can't even describe on the side of the engine, they were like that. It's hard to get to, but I finally got one out and after struggling a little more I managed to get the second one out, but getting them back in is going to be a much harder fight than I thought I'd had to take them down. the steering rack, the stabilizer bar just to get the oil lines that you'll never see, they like to go, they take a weird route up there and then down to this oil cooler here, so now I gotta put these on and put them on , this is going to be even harder now because they are longer because I haven't cut them, so I have to get them in the hole, screw it all together, don't let this edit fool you.

This took a lot longer than I originally thought and a lot longer than this edit shows. I pushed them towards the side of the engine and then bolted them one to one side of the oil cooler and the other to the other side of the oil cooler. then it was on with the bottom pan, the whole bottom pan and everything is on, but remember BMW decided to leave the oil cooler somewhat exposed. There's a bottom tray here, but it's still exposed and this stuff goes in and we don't. I want it to be remixed and this is a modification now, which is actually what is called improving, yes, it is improving and it is practical, it is a practical modification because look at this Auto ID, it is a real tray that should probably having come with a BMW. from the factory, but Auto ID realized that and started selling them and now this pan not only provides the aerodynamic cooling system we need, but it also provides the protection.

Wow, look at it, look at it. Thrive below here, what a modification this was again, thanks. Auto ID now, I think all that's left to do to get started and get this out is fill it with oil and fill it with coolant. You think you just pour both, but this is a 20122 car, so it's not easy to wait until. See what you have to do to pour coolant into this car. Start with step one, which would be removing the coolant cap on the cooling side of the engine, then the charge cap cools down inside and then we'll put the vacuum filler on.

On the engine cooling side of the coolant, add the small T piece and connect the air line. This will suck the air out of the cooling system once a good enough vacuum has been obtained we can leave it in to make sure there are no leaks. in the cooling system and this looks good. Step five, get your Valene coolant, of course we are using Valene equipment. Valene all the time. We are part of the Valene team. See, it's actually made for BMW Mini and Rolls Royce. It's quite interesting, isn't it? now instead of using it from the Valvoline bottle we pour it into a bucket, you'll find out why in a minute, but we're part of the Valene team now, what a great brand to be a part of De 5.5, make sure it's free of air bubbles this is a trick my dad show me wait how did you do it we have to try to get this hose without air but only coolant that way when it is sucked into the cooling system no We don't throw any air, oh, big air bubble, no, oh No, we didn't do very well.

No, we may have introduced some air bubbles, but overall we are absorbing most of the cooling from the hub into the cooling system. Now and once this is done, we fill the rest only to the maximum filling point and then let the load cool. I think you can pour it out before continuing to move the oil. Valvoline valine oil has been around for over 150 years, so I can be 100% sure that their products are perfect, and that's exactly why I agreed to be part of the team. To get valine, you can do so by checking the link in the description.

Regards Valene, if only BM BMW had made it easier. to fill it out, okay, applause Valene for that, no, really applaud Valene, this is one of our most important partnerships, but thank you so much for helping us all, you're ready for step seven. Yes, this has to be pressed three times now, right? kidding i'm not kidding either 1 2 3 set the heater to maximum temperature and the fan to minimum strange yes ok press the accelerator pedal and hold it for 15 seconds don't press the brake pedal during this process can you hear it ? You hear it, yeah, what is that?

The water pump is working. Get off the accelerator. Press the brake pedal. Start the engine. The speed of the engine and the actuators in the cooling system are controlled automatically. So I start it. The service function has started. Yeah, like it says in the R manual bit, what happened to just pouring in coolant and oil? Why turn off the engine? I think now what it's basically saying is just checking the levels, the price so far, up to this point, the front end, all new second hand parts cost me £4,800 which I think is actually not that bad the dash £450 airbags £500 total so far 37750.

We expect the car to be worth around £60,000 later and we are on target to hit the targets now we were actually going to drive it properly for The first time it already looks great apart From the rear, well, we've done a lot, now we have to address this back room. Thank you very much for watching this video. If you enjoyed it, hit the Subscribe button, hit the Like button and See you in the next video. Calm down. What do you like about power? The colors that I justify.