Perfect Highlights for Dark Hair

Wow, this is cute, look how light this

hair

is, oh my gosh, hello best

hair

friend, how are you? I'm here with my client Mel, I have to turn around to see how long your hair has grown and this is almost two years, yes, almost two years. the hair still looks good the color still looks good yes, today we are going to do something different, don't be scared, but we will definitely frame the face. I think less is more now and we are simplifying it now. Okay sometimes all you need is 20 or 16 foils and boom that's it let's get started so let's take a look at your natural levels so this is the new level finder in the new identity sample book gaiteng when you place the swatch level finder next to Mel's hair that you can see in the Back, she's a level three natural up here, this is as natural as she's grown out and when you turn her to the side here in the front of her hair, she is a level four natural, so her hair changes and becomes lighter around the frame of the face and that is very normal, most of us have lighter hair at one level on the front part of our face frame, which tells us a lot about how we formulate.

We can start first at the back where it is

dark

er and then at the front where it is lighter or change. we increase the power of our volume developer so sometimes I do 10 volumes in the front, 20 volumes in the back or 20 in the front and 30 and back, I always increase the power of the developer in the back because it is always more

dark

in the back, so you're going to need more power and the hair around the face is always finer. When you look here, you can see that two years of growth reaches up to her shoulders and what you're seeing are the old reflections of her underneath her that are a little bit darker.

How much hair are we going to cut off today I don't know how much you're going to cut how much do you want me to cut I could literally cut it in half I don't have it like that yeah it's okay if you want to cut past your nipples I don't know how to get past maybe right on or under, but on the nipple or under the nipple, it depends on how much, so here I agree with cutting a lot, that's a lot, let's see, right? okay, yeah, we're good, let's do this right, here we go, so let's cut straight over here girl, your hair is thick, these are new sharp scissors and scissors, yeah, the man is having a hard time cutting it, oh, he was. how exciting oh my gosh I know it's blonde yeah okay let's match your cut and then we'll start with the color so I usually use the big nine when I'm dealing with dark hair and I try to make the hair as light as possible up to level 10.

Because Mel is naturally a level 3 to four, I'm going to use Magnum 8 because I'm not trying to make the hair white, so if you haven't used Magnum 8, you need everyone to like Magna Mate 9ma, has the ability to spread

perfect

ly. It has a lavender tone, it is magnificent. I'm going to use about 50 grams and my favorite mixing ratio is one to two. The spreadability of the product is incredible and now I am going to use 40 volumes. I know 40 volumes may sound kind. It's scary, but obviously we're not going to put this on the scalp, we're on the brain, the hair and framing the face, so on the entire back I'm going to do 40 volumes because she needs that power because it's not close to the skin. scalp, is outside the scalp.

So everything down here is considered the cold axis, which would mean I'm going to need a hundred grams of developer. Now measuring is very important so make sure you always measure because if you don't measure you can change the alkalinity of the product which can affect the lift so you're going to churn it. I'm going to remove the eight magnum with the 40 volume developer. Always use the delicate developer because you will get the promised consistency for the product every time, so now. I'm going to add Guy Tank Collagen Powder, so less is more. His hair is healthy and I want to lift as much as possible, so you only need less than a quarter tablespoon.

The collagen powder ensures that the hair is protected while you lift it because a lot of damage can occur when lifting your hair with any product, any lightener, any time you highlight your hair, you want to make sure you protect it. Your best friend will be in charge of applying my thick texturizing body spray when you comb your hair back because Mel is so healthy. Shiny hair is so slippery you can't even comb it back so when I spray the hair first before doing a slick back technique it stays so I'm sectioning her hair by spraying it and it won't affect the lift it just gives me a bit. texture to work with, so when you comb back everything will stay still.

I'm going to part his hair down the middle because I don't want to try to put too much hair in, so starting on the left side you'll see take a thin section. here, so take a look, you can see how your hair gets finer as you get to the bottom, it's denser up here, that's normal, especially with the hair in the nape area, there's more density where the base is, as it goes down, it becomes finer. The highlight is the length, not the short strands because if you highlight the short strands you are going to draw attention and it will look broken because those hairs are shorter to the eye, never draw attention to the short strands.

Comb the hair down with one hand, you want to hold the length so that the entire length isn't pushed back, but when you comb the hair back, you are literally pushing all the short strands back, so for maximum diffusion, I pick it up. hair completely up and from below, push the hair back and then lower it down and push it up. Now you're creating this huge cushion and make sure you don't bring the

highlights

too high for the base you want to bring it here to make it look like an ombre so what we're doing is we're removing the nape here's some foil I'm going to place it on the board and I'm going to dip it in Magnum 8 Liner.

I'm going to paint it right on the foil, so there's something for the haircut here too, so I don't have to work as hard to get underneath the hair to put the foil on. aluminum, rest your hair right on top, so now. the background is already penetrated and then I take my brush with the magnum eight and I just paint from the background first so that all the product is concentrated right on the ends where you want it and then with the minimum amount of product that you still have left. With your brush, you tilt the brush vertically and lift it up, creating almost a W-shaped pattern so that you can fully penetrate and notice that I'm moving away from that base so that you get all the concentration of the lightener at the ends to create an ombre effect so now you do a foil overlay boom and then you just work your way up to the top so make sure you take a thin section, not too thick, hold this up and again hold it down. the length here lifts the hair up, see here with the comb, create that spread and push it back up look how thin that section is right here, okay, so at the back of the neck you can see I'm done with all eight. .

The blades are one, two, three, four on one side and four on this other side, so a total of eight total in the nape area, so I want you to see how cool this is so you can turn the board and take it out with wheels. Somehow it all gets frustrated, so let's leave this down, so I'll leave it out and you can see where it has its old

highlights

that have now turned into an ombre. I'm just going to do four sheets on each side here, so that way it connects completely, so there's a connection, but there's still some lowlights there, so I want you to see what's going on here because I still have my bowl of 40 volumes here and I don't have to mix another 30 for around the face frame, I'm going to skip the face frame and do it at the end, so I'm going to go from the back of the ear to the point where your coin will be because I don't I want it to be too thick around it. face frame I want it to look natural so I go in at that point and I can see this is what I want to skip or not ok this may be too thin I want a bigger piece so I go over here and go Go back in and see, okay, that's a lot closer, so this is going to be the piece of money that I'm going to hit, so now what I did was I went right behind that piece of money, dissected it and left about an inch .

So this is where I'm going to do my first role for the back section with volume 40 because the face frame I'm going to apply with volume 30 because the hair here is much lighter and finer, so first I'm going to spray his hair with Guy Tang on my thick body, so when you highlight this, what you don't want to do is get all the way to the top of his part because when he tilts his head down you can see this. is where your stripe is, you don't want the foil to be right here because what's going to happen is you're going to be able to see a stitch mark and it's not going to blend in, you want the highlights to come out almost internally, so you want stay an inch away from your part so you can go straight from here at the nape of the neck, go up here, leave out that inch at the top, now make sure you take a thin slice because it's too thick and it's not going to penetrate all the way, but you're going to hold the hair back, comb it and direct it down and comb it back from the center here, so now you can go up more, so at this point you can go all out.

Make your way up as high as you can, so grab your full board here. I'm going to grab the aluminum foil on the colored side underneath and you're going to fold the last quarter inch over that board so you can get the hair right in there. If you want to get as close to the scalp as possible, what I do is take your comb and then stick the whole back comb right behind that board like this and hold it gently and this is where you're going to paint your lightener. I'm going to start in the center, but notice how the board helped anchor the comb back so that you get as close to the scalp as possible without bleeding because now everything is clearly hidden and you can reach as high as possible.

That's really great for me, now you can untie the hair because you already have all the lightener in the hair that you want, remove that comb back and that's it, I repeat it until I do four sheets on this side and four. sheets on the other side and you can blend the ends if necessary or incorporate them, it all depends on what you are trying to achieve here. In many cases, sometimes our ends have lowlights, highlighting the base color due to previous ombres. What I like to do is make sure it blends together. I go in with the rat tail part and select the dark pieces so as not to overlap them.

The parts are already blonde, so you can see right there that this part is pretty blonde. I don't want to overlap that so I just place this facing up so remember because of the back of the flap I can put the board back and apply the lightener directly onto that piece so that way everything connects and blends together to I don't have any breaks here so I ended up following the entire back of the head, we did four slats on one side, four flats on the other side and then we got the shadow part on the back so now I'm hitting the face frame of the money piece, so this is the top section, this is where you see that big face frame piece.

I'm going to trim it up and out of the way and you want to work on the parietal area first, so I'm going to make a part parallel to that section, you can see here. I'm going to do three to four flowers in a row until I get to this area and I'm going to leave this piece out, so I've already sprayed his hair, the guy puts my thick body in so that you work on this section, it will be much easier to style towards back all the way, so hold this section and direct it to the front and of course, comb it back to the edge of the scalp so you can get that real coin. get close to frame his face so take your aluminum board, fold it over and anchor the end of the aluminum board so you can see there's a little back comb cushion here, so again if you want to take your comb and tuck it in nicely behind that board, the nice thing about having the aluminum board here is that you can anchor it right behind it and then paint right through the center like this and remember you're holding the hair this way, don't pinch it with string, but just make sure it's spread out, place your middle finger to hold the board right on the back and then paint like this and you'll be able to get really close to the scalp route this way because the comb is anchored right behind the board and that's the nice thing about using a full plank which you can't do by doing a freehand backcomb and then lower your finger and then spread the product downwards.

The good thing is that having a board gives you that pressure and it also looks much cleaner and you will be more professional in the salon when your clients see you do this because it is not something they can imitate at home and it makes things look much more clean and professional, so now you canTake out the comb and then turn the tips upwards. and go over it and paint it and there you have it and now you do a foil overlay and I repeat, I just go ahead and overlay the foil right on top and then I do another section and repeat and repeat until I make about four consecutive sheets, like this Now we are in the last section for the hair.

This is the money piece. This is very important, so I mixed 30 volumes for the entire face ring because remember the hair is one level lighter. It's also thinner around here, so I want to show it to him while I lift his hair. Notice that it has all these short hairs. These baby hairs don't need to be highlighted. I know a lot of people who have to highlight all the little strands and That's great when it's level eight and nine natural.hair, but when you deal with someone who is Asian, what happens is that it looks broken and not only that , but you eliminate the person's skin tone because now their face blends in with their short hair, making it appear that their forehead is larger. or they have breaks around them, you want to make sure you leave this as a shadow, leave these little ones out, so what I usually do is shake the hair when you shake it out, you'll see these little short strands come out.

They hang them down, you don't have to bring them in, so when you comb back, all these short pieces will come out plus, I'm going to do three to four consecutive sheets and that's all you need and at the end We're going to re-shade the root, so again I'm going to go into a V section here and this is what we're going to highlight, so skip this and you can see how, right in the middle, look at that short hair that you have. Don't highlight that please it won't look good so just highlight around it so you're going to have to highlight here and highlight here because obviously she has short natural hair so I'm going to slick this back that's what we're going to do. to do. to highlight, direct this and style that and that's it, so now let's go ahead and bring this in now.

This will be an interesting section because all the short hair is hanging down. Take out the board. Repeat the same from here up. the hair up this is going to be different make sure you spread the hair out so you see there's a space here because this is around the frame of their face and everyone's hairline is different so you have to navigate the hair of each one slightly different, so I want to go in close as much as possible, obviously, tucking the comb back so I can create a good anchor here with the application and a good blend.

Mel and I have a very interesting conversation. What was your question at the beginning? I asked you what makes you happiest and then reflecting on what we talked about, it's just being able to do what you do on your own time because you can never get your time back, you can always make more money, but what are you losing? You're wasting your time, so I think that's what The main gist of our conversation was how to, one, work smarter, not harder, by being able to save time because you can never get your time back, no, you can.

Well, during the quarantine. I have found that I have been working very, very hard for the last five years. I have been traveling and touring the world non-stop, without taking a break, without taking time for myself, of course, I felt obliged to say yes to everything and I never said no because I don't want to fail. I work very hard for everything and speaking. For Mel, you know, one thing I realized is that you can always make more money, but you can't make more time. My dog ​​passes. Mimi passed away during quarantine. My grandmother passed away and I realized I wasn't spending as much time with my family. either me, my dog ​​or my husband, all I did was work because I felt like I had to work.

You realize that when you have enough, you are good, you are good with where you are in life and you are happy, not happiness. This equates to all these things that we believe are materialistic. What's on social media. You should be happy where you are. If you are not happy where you are, you will not be happy where you will be. And I know many of us. I know you've probably experienced this too. It is very important that it is okay to say no. It's okay to think about yourself first. A lot of people say: Oh, stop being selfish, think about other people, but the thing is how can you think about other people if you don't think about yourself, you have to take care of yourself first before you can take care of other people because you can't. you can get out of an empty container, I mean, they tell you this when you get on the plane, put your seat belt on first. before trying to put the seat belt on others and that is important because if you are not safe you cannot make other people feel safe you have to set an example for yourself you have to take care of yourself before trying to take care of others others and that's what I learned the most during the quarantine is that if I'm not happy I'll be miserable and then it will infect everyone around me, yes you are definitely much happier now, I realized that too, yes even like before .

I'm like, oh no, what happened to you, but now, like you're at peace with yourself, you love what you're doing, you exude happiness and it spreads around the room like if someone was happy, everyone would be happy, so I . I'm here and until my last section, oh my gosh, we're done, we're going to process it for 45 minutes and boom, so we're processing Mel's hair right now and we have a very interesting tradition every time you come to see me. bring you something that she always brings because I know we barely have time to eat so I bring snacks so we can eat lots of snacks that you brought like cupcakes, candy rolls for gushers, bags of chips and random candy and all kinds of things, and? you have for us today so I brought different types of fries and then I will make something healthy some beauties this is healthy oranges some are very small yes they are small they are cute oh they are extra bitter no they are very sweet actually oh thank you and then this is just a bunch of random snacks i ate so oh oreos oreos i have the harry potter jelly beans if you want to do that harry potter challenge is this a challenge? where some of them are bad flavors, um, but they seem like good flavors, so hopefully you'll have to get the good ones.

They don't put the stick this was like lunch box food I used to eat you said throwback they make an oreo version no I didn't know that different types of oreos chocolate oreo we have the golden oreo yes those are healthier than no I don't know I don't know , try to be healthy, okay, fries, okay, and then this one is healthy. turkey, turkey jerky, yeah girl, you see what I mean, every time we have to stay full, well, and then this one, this one is the worst. one, but she's the best girl, what did you bring?

Oh, okay, let's open this. We have I don't know the flavors, I don't remember the flavors, you don't know what flavors, but most of them are like chocolate because I know you. like chocolate, I love chocolate um and some of them are also Filipino flavors um and then this is ube ube I thought it was taro um I think this is honey, lemon, calamansi um chocolate kind of like chocolate and cream cookies, put on and for a roche I'm pretty sure it's chocolate sugar. Okay, I think it's healthy. What do you think? I think it's delicious.

I think you should show everything. I want you to try it too. Well, take a bite. Let's eat this while. We're processing your hair, so we have another 30 minutes and you're done, we're going to come back and we're going to varnish your hair, so it's been 45 minutes of processing. Let's flip it over and let's Take out this is my favorite part, so let's undo these clips because I want to see what everything looks like under these sheets. Now keep in mind that we made 40 volumes on the back and 30 volumes around the face frame. Everything should be even because they remember what.

I told you that the hair on the back and outside is away from the body heat and of course at the face frame the hair is thinner there and naturally lighter so everything should stand up pretty evenly. , magnum eight, look at this look at that lift, oh my goodness. Wow, that's wider than level nine, it's like level nine and a half, so that's good. Wow this is pretty, look how light this hair is, oh my gosh this is so satisfying especially when you put in all that hard work and see the lift. So look evenly and notice how the volume 30 is actually very light as well as the volume 40 on the back and then we're ready to rinse and you can pre tone and glaze it's all up to you so you can see Mel's hair. raised to a level nine, it looks very beautiful around her face everywhere, but what I want to do is pre-tone her, so I'm going to choose Misty Muff, this is the Tang type, my identity Express toner, tones the hair . five minutes, you can leave it longer if you want, the longer you leave it the more color deposit you will get, so it usually finishes after 25 minutes.

You can get the sample page here on my dandycolor.com so you can see. that there is eclipse titanium pearl misty moth blush golden sand and sandstorm I am choosing misty mob here so you can see misty moth is a purple base there is a mauve gray tone so that the purple cancels out a lot of the yellow in the hair and that little A A little of that mauve red gives you that beige reflection, so remember the violet red. You get a smoky beige highlight, so I mixed it one to two in a six volume ratio.

I'm just going to massage it all over her head and this will tone down a lot of the yellow bring it down so I'm massaging the express toner all over her strands and her hair won't change the base because it's acidic make sure you do it quick and quick like this we don't want to lose the time, just massage it, you don't have to pre-tone the hair, but I choose to pre-tone the hair for many reasons because when you work with Asian hair, our biggest fear is brassiness, our hair is naturally dark. it likes to go back to warm pretty quickly on its own so having more pigment just ensures that it lasts longer and controls all the brassy tones and that's it and we'll be back fine so we go back and take a look.

In Mel's hair the highlights are beautiful, we pre-toned with Misty Moth, so remember that Misty Moth has that gray red violet background, so it highlights her highlight, mutes it to give it a more controlled look, you can see all The dimension. here we can stop now and it will be beautiful, but take a look, here is your coin, it looks beautiful, but I always want to finish it and

perfect

the product and make sure it melts so that the color lasts for the next few months because I don't see it for two years a year, hopefully a year, but when you layer color on color, like base coat, top coat, same kind of concept, you create more dimension, more tone, especially for clients that you don't quite see. .

It often makes a big difference, especially with Asian hair, because you have to raise it so high to lower it that we have to cancel out the red to make the highlights look duller, whereas if someone is born naturally with five, six or seven, No. I have to deal with red undertones like Asian hair too, so we go from 8 9 10 to mute it so there's no brass, so now I'm going to go in with 7 bb 9 bb, so we're going to do 7 bb demi 9 bb in the demi ends, so it fades down bb has a mauve beige type of background, so because it has a little bit of that cool gray mafia, it correlates to the misty moth that it's on. family and the good thing about the bb series is that it leans towards the fresh side.

I feel like a lot of beige series can be brassy, ​​but in the Guy Tang Identity Collection it's a really cool shade because hair naturally already has warmth, so when you're glazing or dying hair, you have to control the warmth, not enhance it, no just controlling but working with what's there to get the color you want without adding more warmth to the hair that's already there so you can see here. I'm applying this directly over the foundation and it's not going to change your base because it's our semi color, when you mix it in a one to two ratio it's acidic so always remember to mix it in a one to two ratio and the thing is that even though I toned it previously.

I dyed all my hair with one color. You can see here that there are some stitch marks from the highlights. Remember we only made 26 sheets, only 26 sheets, but look at those highlights, look how beautiful they are because I place them in a way. where it's at the angle you don't see it so when it's placed it's all mixed up here you don't see the stitch marks but when you open the hair now you can definitely see it and die second in different horizontals. positions this is where the shadow that roots the hair will help blend it and I know you're watching me apply on dry hair so when do we tone wet hair and when do we tone dry hair that's the question when it comes to hair that If you want to retain a lot of shine and have a pure color deposit, you can tone it on damp hair, but when it comes to hair like Mel, where she is Asian and her hair is naturally dark and naturally has a lot of warm underlying pigments thatrepeats I want to apply it to dry hair so that I get maximum color deposit and maximum longevity.

I think that's where a lot of us get confused, like when we apply dry, when we apply wet, every time you apply the color dry, you have more color absorption, remember anything. by adding water you are diluting the pigment it's like adding water to your kool-aid so anyway I'm applying 7bb and then after I'm done applying 7bb I'll run the 9bb through your mids and ends and let it process for 25 minutes, rinse it and we will be back fine. Now that I have the last formula left, this is 9bb. I don't care about the total concentration of the pigment.

I didn't add anything transparent to this formula. because I want the maximum deposit of say it, yeah, it's going to be deeper, but that's exactly what I want and it's hard to explain because a lot of times when people lighten their hair, they want it to be obviously like ooh, black and white and super light, but the thing is you override it to lower it and so it is muted and controlled and that is the desired tone that many people with natural dark hair want to achieve, but it is difficult to achieve, it will look so beautiful when you see it and it will have a lot of dimension .

Be sure to process for a full 25 minutes for maximum color deposit. Now, if you want less dye load, you can add clear crystal so the color doesn't look as deep, but for me, the more pigment the better, although it will look deeper, it will last much longer and look more lush. This is the final result of Mel's hair. I'm obsessed, yes, my God. Oh my gosh, we took the '90s pass with the chunky money pieces, we brought it back, we modernized it, we made it more diffuse around the hairline, the face, as you can see, it stands out and then when you turn to one side, you get that darkness at the back, but you still see the shimmer shine through, you get that ombre from the deepest to here, but you still see the depth from the inside of the nape area, that depth ensures that it hugs, outlines and contours her jawline so it doesn't look washed out, but she really highlights her length while the color harmonizes with her natural level 3 4 base.

The thing is, when you highlight the hair too much and it's too white like level 10 11 12 next to a dark base, it will look like tiger stripes, so you almost have to match the color to make it look like chocolate mocha latte, yes, and that's why you get the blonde highlights here, but it harmonizes and not like a zebra, nothing more than its hair is healthy and I'm obsessed anyway, click thumbs up, subscribe, follow me. on instagram tik tok facebook yes and download my music on spotify itunes apple music amazon wherever you consume music and definitely buy all the colors you see here at mydanicolor.com or in the armstrong mccall and cosmopolitan stores, okay, we will talk to you soon, my pain is mine. power you