Party Miatas: The ULTIMATE Timing Belt & Water Pump Tutorial!

Well guys, last night I heard a

party

in the driveway. I'm going to try to figure out what the hell was going on. Someone left the garage door open. This look. Daniels hose. A coolant. Jaeger Moly. Captain Rotella. What the hell happened? Oh, that's it. beautiful, that is beautiful, what are you responsible for this shame? You wake up, time to wake up, now you look great, as you can see, old, broken, driven, here's some

party

habit. He also likes to drink a little. too much oil cooling, we'll fix it today welcome to

timing

belt

water

pump

maintenance and front reseal.

I'll show you how to replace the

timing

belt

water

pump

, thermostat camshaft seals, front crankshaft seal and valve cover gasket, the only thing. In addition to basic hand tools, what you will need is a silicone gasket maker tube. I always like to use the black material because I know that once it turns black, the leaks will never appear again. This is also a good time to replace the rubber fuel. lines radiator hoses heater hoses radiator cap radiator vacuum lines spark plugs spark plug wires change the oil change the air filter basically anything around the engine that is rubber or that can wear or crack over time, you want Start by putting your car on jack stands at the front, removing the radiator cap and screwing on that big Philip plug to drain the coin.

Move the radiator. It's not 100% necessary to do this step, but it gives you a lot more room in the front of the engine, so keep going. go ahead and remove those clamps, same thing with the lower radiator hose, all you have to do is remove that clamp, go ahead and remove this hose and grab a ratchet with a 12 millimeter socket on the side of the radiator right here and sing On the other side, there is a 12 millimeter bolt on each side, just go ahead and remove those bolts and attach the fans. If your car has air conditioning, you will have a pair of 10 millimeter nuts holding these air conditioning lines to the radiator, so you will also need to remove them.

Remove the coolant overflow hose. Remove the intake crossover tube. Simply loosen this hose clamp with 10 millimeters. Remove the line from your vent tube. Remove the line from your CV and simply loosen it on the afm side. last thing is that little 10 millimeter bolt hidden down there but ready to be removed, remove the spark plug wires, disconnect the PCV hose and loosen all the bolts on the valve cover. I like to do it in a sort of criss-cross pattern, just breaking it up. They are not likely to come loose, but it is possible to break the valve cover by simply removing one bolt completely at a time, unplug the thermal switch, and remove the two bolts on the top of the housing.

Remove the upper timing cover with these four 10-millimeter bolts. I'm getting ready to remove the accessory belts, but before I loosen any of the tensioners you want to loosen the ten millimeter bolts on the water pump pulley, I'm first going to remove the power steering and air conditioning belt to do it. You're going to have to loosen a 14 millimeter nut that you'll have access to through the pulley, this 14 millimeter bolt, the 12 millimeter one isn't there and then this actually controls the attention on the pump, so you're just going to loosen this and then when the belt is loose enough you can go ahead and take it off the alternator and the water pump belt it's the same concept you've got a fourteen millimeter down here you need to break that back loose behind the alternator there's a 12 millimeter bolt right here and then you have another 12 millimeters that controls the tension, so first loosen this one and then just loosen this one until you can remove the belt, remove the harmonic damper and the water pump pulley, which are ten millimeter bolts you want to have on the car. in first gear with the electronic brake pressed, then you will remove the lower timing covers.

There are a few ten millimeter bolts left that will hold those covers in place before removing the timing belt. You want to make sure that the number one cylinder is at top dead center and what that means is that the piston and the front cylinder are as high as possible. You want to go ahead and remove all of the spark plugs and then you're going to take a long, clean screwdriver and gently drop it down. through the spark plug hole on cylinder number one, then you will take a ratchet with a 21 millimeter socket, crank the engine once it is at the highest point, you know you are at top dead center, now I want to lock the engine at top dead center.

Center Flying Miata is a really cool tool that goes between the cam gears and has teeth and locks the cams in place, but I'm going to do the cam seals so I need to remove the gears and I still want everything to stay instead, so this is a cool trick I learned online. Your cams have this hexagonal shape in the mold and what you do is put a wrench on each one and be careful not to scratch the lobes of your cam. or any other surface like that while you're doing this and you're going to take a couple of vices and lock it in place.

I want to go ahead and get the rest of these cables and cooler lines out of the way, so I'm going to disconnect my power steering. I think that's the pressure sensor. Disconnect these coolant lines. Here you have to disconnect them to remove the timing belt. Anyway, remove the nut on the front of the crankshaft. You want to have the engine in fifth gear. I think I said first gear earlier. You want to be in fifth gear if you don't want the engine to turn over and you have the tea break too tight to release the tension on the timing belt, first loosen this 14 millimeter bolt on the tensioner. remove the spring back here, remove the belt immediately, you have to remove the belt, go ahead and remove the tensioner and the idler.

Next you will remove the gears from the can, simply take the right wrench and turn them against each other a little more. The ten millimeter bolts will release the backing plate. Next you will remove the water pump and that is done by removing the four 12 millimeter bolts that surround the water pump pulley bracket and there are two 12 millimeter bolts on the side. I have to remove it, so here we are at the timing gear moment, it's time to remove it. These things can be almost impossible to remove. Sometimes I'm the luckiest person in the world because mine came loose by hand so I can remove it.

One way to remove it is to get a very long pry bar and stick it behind the gear and pry it up against the oil pump. One way to do this that can also help is to use a torch and heat this gear while prying. The next thing I'm going to do is remove the crankshaft front seal. You want to use something like this basically what you're going to try to do is pierce the seal grab it and pull it out without scratching any sealing surface including the crankshaft and oil pump putting in a new seal it's pretty easy to decide with what spring goes To look at the engine, one trick you can do is put the old seal on top and get another timing gear.

The way to do this is to use the correct size bushing and tap it into place. Whatever you do, you just want to make sure you don't scratch any of the sealing surfaces and that you don't use any tools that could damage the seal. Next I'm going to do the cam seals and I'm actually going to cheat a little bit with these and release these front cam covers. This will make it very easy to replace the seals. Super JDM, you will feel it getting good. and flat, don't change these caps, it has an eye right there for the intake, this one has an e for the exhaust, they have to stay on their correct sides and when you tighten these bolts, don't overtighten them, there are very small bolts and they are threaded in aluminum so they don't require a lot of torque, if you're not sure how tight you need to look at the torque specs, so now I'm going to put the new water pump on and I'm going to start by installing this o-ring that is included with the kit, down here you can see where the two twelve millimeter bolts on the side of the water pump come from.

This housing here connects to a hard line that goes back to one of your heaters. center hoses this hard line right here, so you're going to have to hold this hard line, click with one hand, pull this housing with the other hand and I've already loosened it once you release the housing from the tube, you can barely see that. oh hey after a place and the o ring itself is really easy it's a pain to get to it if you have power steering when I put the pump on I like to put the gasket on the pump lever these top two bolts and fit them as one piece once you start threading those top two bolts the joint isn't going anywhere.

The next thing you want to do is make the gasket for the small housing on the side of the water pump. I actually have this nice little tab on the side, so what you can do is just pry it up like this and then thread the two bolts right into the side of the water pump. Reinstall the cam backplate here and make sure the Woodruff key is in place before doing so. Put the timing gear back on and then go ahead and slide the timing gear back onto the nose of the crankshaft and then you can slide it back into place.

Install the new timing belt idler to the tensioner. There's a little peg that's going to go in. this hole to put the spring in I push the tensioner all the way up this way and just tighten it by hand. I put the rubber boot from the old spring on the new spring, hook it to the tensioner, first get a good grip on that. hook it with your pliers and go ahead and hook it onto that other pin so the cam gears on the Miata engine are identical for the intake and exhaust the difference is how you install them on the exhaust side of the head you would see that should be facing up on the input side, you have one eye, the eye must be facing up, so here is our eye, here is our e.

I make you Randy for putting your seatbelt on. I loosen that 14 again and push the tensioner as far back as it will go. I can get it and I'm going to tighten it again, first the belt on the timing gear and around the tensioner and the idler so the timing belt is on, but that's not timed correctly because I literally just pulled it just to get it on. and you'll understand the method of my madness here in a minute, what you want to do is go ahead and reinstall the timing belt guide, tighten it up pretty good once the belt is back on, even if the timing isn't set yet, you can do it too.

Remove the keys from the cans. You may need to turn the cams just a couple of degrees to position the belt correctly. Let's take a look at our timing marks. There is the triangle on the oil pump and then there is a small notch cut into the timing gear cylinder number. one is at top dead center when those two line up, so what I'm going to do is turn the crank back just a hair to line up those two. The first thing I like to do is time the exhaust cam crankshaft so that Once you line up the marks on the crankshaft and you get here to the exhaust cam, what you're looking for is this eye that's on the cam gear, It has a little nick in the tooth here and it should line up with that eye.

There on that backing plate as you can see the marks don't line up so I can tell you that this cam gear needs to be turned one tooth clockwise this is where it gets a little complicated and each It has its own method to do it. but what I like to do is slide the timing belt off the intake cam and you want to hold it to keep tension on the crankshaft gear and then we'll make this belt skip a tooth and I'm going to put it back on the crankshaft . The crankshaft marks are still aligned.

Come here to my escape chamber. See those timing marks line up. So come here to my intake chamber. It has the same treatment. It's got its e right there and a. On the backing plate you can see that it is also missing a tooth as I know the belt is where I want it on this side. I'm just going to throw in a couple of zip ties now I know I'm not going anywhere to get it. my intake cam should skip a tooth counterclockwise. I'm going to do it the same way outside of the gear and I'm going to check it again.

Make sure the timing marks are aligned. One last check you can do to make sure the cams. are timed correctly is counting 19 teeth between the marks so I'm going to do this real quick 1 2 3 17 18 under the flange and 19 teeth between the marks and that's how you know your motors have the correct timing to adjust the tension. correctly, simply loosen the 14 millimeters of the tensioner and crank the engine for a few cycles once itfinished, tighten the tensioner again. Installing the thermostat is fairly easy, so place the sprinkler side down and attach the lower distribution covers the same way.

You removed them the same way you removed the top cover water pump pulley. You can only tighten them by hand until you attach the strap and harmonic damper. The valve cover gasket is pretty simple: take the new gasket and place it in the groove before putting the valve cover in place, you should use a little silicone on the cam covers something like this, you need to do it on each side of the cam cover on the intake and exhaust and back here on the cast of that camp. The same way I loosened it with a criss-cross pattern, you want to do the same thing.

There is actually a specific order online. I don't remember exactly what it is, but as long as you use some kind of cross pattern in this. We will keep it safe and it is not very likely to crack. Connect your PCV valve. Reinstall the spark plugs and reconnect the wires. Replace all accessory straps. Setting belt tension is the exact opposite of loosening belts. tensioner bolt on both the power steering and the alternator down here and basically you just want to tighten them until you have enough tension and then you're going to tighten the other bolts that you loosened this down here, the one behind the alternator two on the power steering, you want to tighten the belts enough but don't tighten them too much, still be able to move them a decent amount, but not hear any squeaks when starting, others, your belts are on, you can adjust those ten millimeter bolts that hold the water pump pulley, tighten the bolt of crank, spec is 1/16 to 122, that's foot-pounds, drop the radiator back in, plug in both fans again, hook up the coolant overflow tank.

Replace the crossover tube and of course don't forget to connect the SCV hose and the valve cover vent hose so it gets dark and rainy but luckily all that's left is to connect the upper and lower radiator hoses and Connect the small coolant hoses. which you disconnected from the thermostat housing and then simply refilled your cooling system, let the car come up to temperature with the cap off and added coolant as needed. Well, this is how you make a water pump with a timing belt and other miscellaneous items that could leak. in his car I know it was a pretty long video and I'm trying to gauge if you guys like that or not.

I know it's very detailed. I don't want to skip any steps when doing something like this in case anyone is interested. They are really new to cars and doing this for the first time so let me know what you think of this again. Thanks for watching, don't forget to subscribe. I'm very cold and wet and ready for pizza. I'll see you next time