Medium Length Haircutting Class With Guest Artist Tom Harris - FreeSalonEducation.comJun 06, 2021
class="paragraph">Hey everyone, Tom Harris with Matt's back and free
classroom education. start here we are today I'm an educator with John Paul Mitchell Systems and the art director of penico salons New Jersey a lot of what's been going on behind the chair what I've really been paying attention to is what clients are looking for that's kind of new and nothing is really that new but it's new if you're approaching a makeover or a change in the way we're going to do it today what I've heard a lot is people go shorter than they have hair longer and there have been enough stars that have cut their hair short and the cool thing about that is that it gives us a nice creative way to show people that they can change their hair style and try something different where I'm going to go today is that mid
lengthcut and i am not quite sure the exact
lengthwe will end up with but we will see as the technique progresses but this is a shape that is super versatile it will have the ability to be worn in multiple different ways. entes and i think you i am going to enjoy the technique a lot so let's start our haircut so guys this is how we start the haircut we take a section of the parietal ridge and we take a rounded horseshoe shaped section all around from the top and what I'm going to be doing is picking my length through the inner layers so depending on how long or short you want to create this haircut the first section is going to be the most important so I'm going to take, I'll show you, I'm going to take a vertical section. here straight down the middle of the back to the nape area so we took our first section sectioned from the top around the parietal ridge in a rounded shape here and then I took a mid section of the section down the back to the area of the neck, so now what I'm going to do is what you want to do is what you want.
We talked earlier about this haircut, either it can be very soft and almost a shaggy type feeling or at the end of the haircut we can make it extreme and strong depending on where we want it to be. finish the haircut this is how we'll wait until the end for that but your first section will determine how long it's short your length will be here so you can see this length here is combed it will be your length below so depending on how much time is short i take this this is how the length will be determined so we're going to take a vertical section at 90 and i'm looking at about seven inches long so i'll take as much as my hands can handle we'll start with my first length.
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medium length haircutting class with guest artist tom harris freesaloneducation com...
We're going to cut up and then include the nape area so this is also combed out and cut into a square shape so you're going to want to look at that and see what it's doing. weight on the inside and you can see your length is real very soft so anytime it's off the head and then let go of that hair when you're cutting it head first and let it go after the cut is done, it's going to leave a very soft edge so all I'm going to do now is rotate or pivot to my right using that first starting guideline and taking two two one straight out at the bottom.
I'm just looking at that shape starting to happen okay three two two very simple technique and depending on how creative you want to do it with lengths like I said this is a length that's not short it's not long it's that perfect haircut
mediumlength that I feel right now a lot of women are willing to go after than they are willing to take a little bit of hair off and still keep some at the same time, so again let's keep moving forward working my way right now. I'm right next to the mastoid process bone which is directly at the back of the ear.
I like to keep the sections pretty. controlled so let's comb everything out of the way and make sure you can actually see the exact section that you're working on comes out at 90 that's my length this is all combing at 90 and my length on the bottom controls the length of the haircut so now we're going to now go through the ear and what you want to do is continue to keep this initial guideline that you started from the back working it straight into the front if I had very fine hair and I was concerned about how much weight you would be taking off in For the front, I could pull the hair back a bit more, but currently my model has enough hair to keep working with this pattern, so to still want to make it stronger, I'd go further back, but in this case I'm going straight out, no in the front section but almost continuing the same pattern of layers so outwards and then my last section where the front length is.
I'm going to take this backwards and not cut straight from the parting but oversteer back just a little bit to the section before mai Keep a little more length ok so looking at the shape right now best of what's happening here is this movement is really smooth and we get to choose at the end what we want to do with this length if we want to keep it like this long or we're going to go up a little bit shorter so I just want to continue working that exact pattern on the opposite side right now so i go back to center and look at this length now i'm working my way to the left ok so as you move towards left body position it's always very important any time you're working making a cut of hair so currently it was all coming out of the head and i was cutting straight up now at this point i'm going to still pull the hair out to 90 but i'll push it away from me so as not to pull it towards me and cut a bit of too much on the hair so it's still coming out of the head but as I move my way to the left side I'll be kind of pushing that away from me instead of pulling it out so it's really going to have the same pattern coming straight out 90 degrees and just removing that length, you know, when I'm working, I always wonder what the texture of the hair that you're working with will produce. as you choose these lengths and work with precision to the texture you are working on so you are never in a hurry you want to see exactly what you are doing to the hair i mean the best thing to do is take sections that you can actually see how you're developing the shape and you always want to be able to see exactly the length you're cutting as well so back down to the bottom at the nape area you're cutting a square that square layer is fine so I'm moving towards the front behind the left side of the head right now on your last section you want to push it up and keep it right in the center of that section behind the ear currently in the mastoid process area stay organized keep your sections neat comb that to 90 you just want check it yourself check that the head is straight up in the position the best thing about this right now is that what i am seeing is that the clients Before they're really looking for a multitude of different shapes and we're doing a lot of geometric shapes that are very strong and then there's this whole market of people who don't really want geometric shapes, they want to stay smooth and moving and very easy to style, so I think This is a good combination.
You know you're going to We don't know exactly the finished product here yet, so the nice thing is that as we go along, we can decide at the end where we want this shape to stay and what kind of shape. we want to finish the last section right in the front again remember what we did on the opposite side so we're going to direct this hair back and do that final last section ok let's see this before we continue and the good stuff it's right now it's your hat you've got hair that's bouncing and I like to let it know look at it I've got a nice little ripple in this air and that's freeing up the way from the inside out alright so let's drop the part top now and drop this down I completely overhauled it and its length is really consistent every time just keeping a good tension and a good lift keeping your fingers really in place and really pushing that hair out and keeping track of where it is on the head and then checking to check your length it really is a very easy technique to start this haircut so now I'm going to drop the top part down and talk Let's go over where this hair is going to fall so now you can see the top length has gone down over that undercut and depending on where it's going to be parted her hair will be where we'll work we could work we could work with a center parting I'm going It's going to be a little bit different and work off of a side direction so I'm going to part the left side from about the middle of the brow.
I talked a little bit about framing the face through an inner layer because a lot of times you'll create the framing of the face and then the layer inside. I'm not clear, I'm very sure, but I'm not exactly sure where I want it to land. I like the length. I think it would be nice to keep the length soft and at the same time I want to open up the face a bit. the lateral direction is the part that goes from the middle of the eyebrow to the top of the crown. I'm going to take a section from the crown forward in a circular section, okay as you can see I'm working on this side. setting up my part is varying it's a pie section from the crown of the head it's all going to pivot off of this length that i choose so i'm going to overdraw i'm going to lift this hair straight off the top of the head and choose my length so that the inside move the bottom is already released it has a very soulful kind of feel it's lighter and not heavy it also collapses the bottom so this shape doesn't widen at the bottom it will be a little more narrow the nice thing about that is it really is a flexible shape you'll have a lot of movement in the hair and we'll decide at the end how long is short we want to leave it so now for the inside I'm going to take this section and I'm going to overdirect it forward using the length of my crown as my deciding factor on how short or long to make this could be very long or i can move a little bit more on the inside and shorten it a bit which is what i'm going to do so it has ap about eight inches long here and I'm going to work from the length of the crown to the front hairline so that it all comes up and I'm going to cut straight towards the front hairline knowing that the length that I'll lift and cut will be the length of the front of her hair so you can see the length here now became f length or face frame in front the nice thing about this is when it is cut in the air and let go it will have an effect very soft it won't be heavy and it won't be blunt so i'm talking about this first section being the guide for the whole haircut so i'll just make sure it's good and works all the way to the front okay my second section will use the first section that I just cut and come right over like I just did it's two sections that you're leading forward like this ok I'm still in the front area this is combing up to nineties a, my fingers are moving towards the front hairline and you can see how it takes all the shape. place in the front so what you're doing in the air let's see that really nice very smooth ok so the pivot from here moves to the ear area now it's gone from being a pie shaped section to a section more vertical and I'll change this so you can see it so I'm going to direct the hair up in the air at 9 0 again but not straight up 90 it's really more of the top of the head off the head I don't want lifting it up that would remove too much hair I want this to come off the head more if you use your comb it will tell you where to go and just cut down on that part coming straight in and back using the same guide.
I'm spinning around the head maintaining the same momentum and the same change in length, so here I am. in the air and the nice thing about this is that it doesn't have to exactly blend into the background you can leave a little bit of a disconnect over here because as you can see that's my lower section from the first part of the haircut and now I just leave a bit long I don't want it to be a perfect match and continue in the same pattern now I'm at the back of the head so my section goes straight to the back again I'll change this so you can see it this will be my last section on the back this is the side so you're working from your lighter side first and then you're coming up to the heavier side so back to 90 not straight up but further away from the head from where it's living and following that exact pattern from that leading first initial and as you can see I don't blend exactly down to that bottom layer I leave an overhang in the length but when you look at this now and see the movement there isn't a start and a stop what it did below for what I have on top is it stays very soft at this point your body position really has to change so the next section in the back changes to the opposite side and we still go back to The Guideoriginal which is at the crown so I'm going to remove that section, hi Shay p-- and I'm going to layer the hair exactly the same using that length at the crown as my guide pulling that hair straight at 90 until I run out of hair, ok i work my way to the front i am now using vertical pie shaped sections coming straight out of the crown finding the initial guideline we started with and just following along pulling the hair for me now you can see that instead of pulling it out of the way it's all being pulled towards me I'm going to take pie shaped sections I'm just behind the mastoid process bone right now or at the back of the ear like you always use that word mastoid process is is the technical term for where is that always it's funny sounds like a funny name for that area of the head and we stop right above that guideline I'm going to be doing diagonal splits to the front again having o note you don't really want to go straight up it's got the shape of the head leaving the top a little longer and we're moving down this goes right on that layer it's going to sit right on top of the top bottom undercut alright key point right here this is where we're working on the front and because it's parted on one side I want to direct this hair back exactly where I am right now so I'm taking a diagonal part using the previous section and I'm going to redirect this hair towards that guide and the reason I'm directing it too far back towards the ear is so that we can keep a little more length in the front so that this hair goes back and U.S.
I'll leave it a little more in the front, taking a vertical diagonal section and bringing it back so that we maintain a heavier front. I'm going to use this length and I'm going to run my front hair to this length, just pin it to make a better connection in the front, so I'll take a diagonal part in the front with some of what I did on the side of the initial shape and more . direct it back to the opposite side of that party and simply cut it from longest to shortest to longest by moving it across the head.
I will take this hair and finish that length just to make a nicer connection. It will still have a lot of length in the front, but the connection will be much better towards the corner of the eye, the last section for the front and making sure that everything on this side is connected to the length, the shorter length on the left side of the head so my last part of this haircut now will just be changing the length of the back I'm going to part the hair down the center and I think we're all used to it I think everyone is used to creating these strong shapes first by going in and creating the front the length in the back and then layering first I mean second so by choosing a concave length in the back I think it will add a little more interest to the haircut because the center length will push the length to the front and we'll make it too direct. this section i Go back and choose what would be the appropriate length.
Now I knew it was here and I didn't like it. I could go a little shorter in the center to leave that corner a little heavier, so I'm going to oversteer this. hair back keeping it in my fingers cutting from shortest to longest ok so tonight our length is shortest to longest and now what I'm going to do is run the second side towards the center and cut it from bottom to top, let's check that the length is a little longer on the side I just cut, which is much better than being too short, voila, ok, so I'll bring another section down/directed back.
You want a little more less lift at this point because you're creating a stronger shape at the bottom and I'm going to do this whole section just to make sure everything is there just to make sure it's nice on the opposite side using the center as a guide . I'm going to work by cutting the front of my fingers which is very much easier to control the hair because that's where the strength of your fingers is at that point using your finger strength will always give you more control as that you create one last section of shape in the corner directing it towards you and just strengthening that bottom ok so this is the final bang i didn't really go back in there and iron it out i wanted to leave some body because now it's a sensation fuller and I didn't want to see it flatten out on its head though it would be awesome to be a lot closer too but we wanted to show a little bit more of a softer commercial feel but the inside needs to smooth out so let's start by going to the back corner and I'm going to work diagonally.
I'm going to take a diagonal section and I'm going to pull the hair towards me and all we're looking to do is lighten up some of the stronger edges so I'll just point out that I'm going a little deeper and you'll find that that will take some weight off of it as well. throughout the entire process. gh so I'm going in and I'm just taking a little more weight off and that's what you know every haircut you do after you're done the ultimate end is really looking at how it's falling I knew right away my top was going to be heavier than I wanted, so going in and creating that softness with just a very soft tip cut will really give you a great finish and the ability for you to see how it falls much better.
I always like to lighten up a lot of my work. after it's dry and you really want to see exactly how it falls and you want to look at your work you really want to look at all angles and see exactly where the hair needs to be touched up and smoothed I turned up the working weight and worked my way to the front where I directed too much this back. I will do the same. I want to go in and still oversteer it back, but put that texture and that smoothness in. difference when you're done and you're a star When I look at her and really look at the way the hair falls and give it that personal touch, I realize that today's hairdressers are very much attuned to not just finishing a haircut and going out by the door, but they are staring. what it's doing and they're looking at exactly where that hair might need to be thickened or softened for it to have its best effect and for me right now I just like to lighten this up people are lightening the hair a lot different shapes of razors scissors to mix Your own scissor I find that a lot of times you just use your own scissor to give it your personal touch I think clients absolutely know the difference, they see the difference and see the
artistry of the hairstylist just by the way they are handled I think they will What I like most about hairdressing is to put your personal stamp on all the work you do and the best thing for me is just to study the individual and really determine who they are specifically by looking at them and seeing what their profile is what would be the best way for them this way which i feel right now is going to be universal i think a lot of people could very easily fit into this haircut and it would be a trade l success is not the you know it's not this you know it's not the it has a classic shape but the technique is a bit different because you're working from the bottom and then you're choosing your length at the top and you're not creating the outer shape first , but rather after and you can finish this any way you want.
You know, you know. I would definitely put some softening oil on her hair and if needed spray or some spray wax just give it a great finish so we're really good I mean we're really good I think this is one technique you will definitely have a lot of fun with and the best thing for me is that we share our knowledge and salon education for free .com surely is doing it and I am so happy to work with Mr. Matt Beck today on this finished look guys the We'll see soon, enjoy inside, why was I the one who stepped on them?
I don't even think I stepped on you guys.
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