Making a Mosaic Longsword with an ABS Mastersmith - Kyle Royer

We told you from the beginning, the first video we put on the channel, we will also have other artisans, some of them you have already seen, others we still don't know who they are, that's who we are. let's do let's start branching out a little please welcome Kyle Voyer Kyle Royer is a master ABS blacksmith he's going to show you a sword that took him three months to enjoy welcome back to the Knife Studio here's my name. Kyle Royer and I are a master swordsman. He looks really cool when you turn him around and make my first sword, so let's embark on this epic adventure.

Do you think it will be a bill big enough for a sword? I think it will be one of the next. What you need to do is start cleaning all the scale, rust and everything in here. I want to get nice clean surfaces, so one of the things I'm going to have to be very careful with here is to make sure I take my time. on these billets and not overheating or underheating them, whereas I'm all for putting almost 200 of steel in here and you could just overheat or underheat it just once and ruin everything, so I have to be very careful with that and watch my temperature on this thing I think we'll go ahead and do this Billet first pour it right here in the center it'll go in the center of the

mosaic

pattern when we're done foreigner thank you foreigner this is the W Billet left it all clean, marked it when I cut it into four pieces and we're going to stack.

This should be ready to solder the ends and once the ends are soldered I can continue. and put some sheet metal on the sides just to encapsulate the uh, the Billet, close it all up, so right after I weld this forward, I'm going to do what I did with the first initial billets and polish all of this extra soft steel. the sides and we'll forge this, it's time to forge it. I think I'm going to forge it down to about an inch and three quarters and then re-square the building with all the weird stuff, so the next thing I'm going to do is uh, mark it all out, get the layout of where I want to cut the tiles and, uh, yeah, I'll start doing all that stuff here, it's got it all, uh, TIG welded, we have our casing on the sides or not.

I don't know what you can say, but the wide area has our eight inch metal welded there, it's all encapsulated, so it should be a clean atmosphere, free of Forge welding experience, no one else, thanks, but it's time to finally normalize This sheet, we heat it. to 1600 and let it cool to air temperature and heat it up to 1500 let it cool and then to 1400 and let it cool and then I can continue grinding more surface grinding it until it is rough in profile prepare it for heat treatment thanks foreigner the blade is ready to use with heat treatment the color was beautiful it looked really even it was beautiful with the fries when I saw it I'm going to temper this sheet at 450 degrees There it goes, hopefully we can get the entire sheet tempered pretty evenly.

I already did the design on the sword for the Fuller profile, so it's pretty straight, pretty flat, so I did the design on both sides here, but the blade tapers a lot, so what I did was super glued together. Some little shims here to make the Fuller taper more like the amount I wanted when I put it on the flat granite surface and then outlined the line there. Thanks, the Fuller is finally sanded. I spent most of the day standing. This thing, my fingers are killing me. I'm holding that little sanding wheel I made, but I got the job done, so yeah, this blade is now ready for the blade bevels to be polished and we'll finally be ready to go.

I'm really taking weight off the material in earnest because right now it's almost five pounds and I'm hoping it does well on the grinder. I sanded the blade by hand, the blade bevels are 600 grit and the Fuller's are 1500 grit. I will finish sanding the rest. of the blade after the handle is finished and then we'll do the engraving and all that, yeah look right at me, the next thing we can do is start laying out where the blade will fit into the guard and then start milling the slot. for the guard and something that I like to do on my guards that you may have seen before is that I like the ricasso area to fit into the guard about ten thousandths of an inch so that it fits very snugly and I actually pushed that in there by hammering in my guard until it leaves a mark and go in there with the dental part and remove the material until the blade physically fits into the guard.

You may have seen two little dots on the back right here that indicate which side is up also I have an arrow on the tank so I can put this the same way every time I do a little inspection to see what it looks like oh man, it looks amazing. I'm very happy with that it was the most challenging guard adjustment ever made and it shows. I like it, it looks like it's an integral part of the blade, I mean it's as good as it looks, you really can't ask for it to be better. I have a piece of metal cut here for the front spacer.

I marked where that piece is going to go, I marked the center and I marked where the 10 goes there, so now I'm going to take it to the router and make a slot for it to fit. On the tank, I finally have this front spacer fit. What I was looking for was a little flow. You can see this little coil area here that I cut into the blade, if you look closely, that kind of flow. The coil bend goes directly to the front spacer. I wanted it to flow into the handles. The next thing I can do is draw some lines on the handle material where the tang goes and start drilling holes, milling and broaching it until I get it to fit here foreign foreign thanks mate, pretty tight, not bad man, not bad at all, usually things aren't going so well for me, we're pretty much ready to get to work figuring out how to make the knob, so here's the knob, it has a 5 16 hole going through this piece of metal and I also made a 5 16 hole on one end. 3 8 of an inch that goes in about a sixteenth of an inch or so, I think.

I'm ready to put this thing on the lathe and start turning it, so they rejected this Pummel yesterday. I have a slot at the end here. I think I can probably go ahead and make the knob go crazy. It's going to be a pom pom, I have a hole drilled here, we have a tapered tap and then I have a bottom cap that goes through it with a tapered tap first and then the bottom tap and I get some threads. On this thing, we'll then take it and start turning it on the lathe until it becomes a Pummel nut.

This thing is amazing. I love putting it together for the first time. You're finally starting to put all the components together. I just received the Pommel nut. finished pommel which is actually ready for gold inlay, it is the most finished piece of this entire sword, it is probably even a little closer to being finished than the blade, so here is the finished pommel nut, it has 5 threads 16 inches and is recessed for sitting. down inside once you have the knob all domed and everything will be a nice, perfect dome for the transition to the knob nut, so one of the next things we're going to do is take this really very rough piece of knob and start spinning. lower it and get it very close to the final shape we want.

I've got the top of the knob pretty much done here, it's at 600 grit right now which is probably a little further than it needs to be because I'm going to get gold inlay later and end up having to sand it again at 220. Next up What I want to do is clean this spoke and maybe sand it a little bit and get it nice and crisp. Edge here, something else that will happen in the future a little bit later is that this will be changed from a round shape to a more oval shape, but that will be rectified later after the alignment pins and the handle are shaped and everything. that, but for now, I roughed the knob pretty close, I have the normal shape completely ready to go, the knob is ready to hand sand and gold inlaid, the front spacer is ready to hand sand and then gold inlay and I have the shaped handle. to the final size you need and it's ready to flute once the design is done, so the only other part of the handle that needs aggressive shaping is this guard, so I'm going to start polishing this once I have all the design lines.

Put it here, please, foreigner. I have all the accessories sanded with 220 grit for the sword. We're going to coat the tang and the inside parts of the fittings with Vaseline and then we're going to pour this epoxy that I'm mixing into the handle. Put it on. Instead, put the knife sword and assemble it, put everything together and then once the epoxy starts to set, take the knife apart, clean it all, put it back together, let the epoxy harden completely and then, yeah, We can remove the handle. and so on and it will fit perfectly like a glove every time I finally cleaned the whole handle, cleaned the guard, got all the epoxy out of the places I didn't want it to be, now I have the handle screwed to this little grooved jig design thing which I made, so now I'm going to put it on the lathe and I'm going to start

making

some design lines using the lines here, we're going to put lines along the handle, eight of them in total and then I'm going to take it off of this little template and we're going to bring it over here and we'll put a pencil on my height gauge and draw eight lines around the handle like this so we have a grid to then make our design.

I'll probably use a Sharpie to attach the grid at an angle that goes from corner to corner on each little square and that will give us eight perfect spiral flutes around the handle, after that I can start cutting this thing with a foreign foreign file here it is the ivory part of the handle is finished. I'm so sick of it here and man, oh man, I got goosebumps putting this thing on, it's super amazing. I just love it, the sword looks so good. It's really getting here now. I'm like oh I love it so much now, thanks foreigner, so far wherever the gold goes I've cut the grooves.

I can start taking my 24 karat gold, break it into the grooves and have it set in that dovetail once that's done we can sand the surface clean, sand these things down to 2500 or 3000 grit, polish them lightly and then blow them out with gun and then the accessories will be ready oh yes, thank you, thank you, foreigner, no, no, no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no then the guard sanded the front spacer sanded Palmer No sanding all I have to do is lightly polish the pieces to get that nice mirror finish There and then blow the gun and hopefully it will come out right the first time or at least the fifth time or something like that.

I am absolutely terrified. I have to finish the sword. I feel like I'm going to vomit because I bloom so many times. It's not going well, I just want to finish this, I just have to do it, thank you, thank you foreigner, that looks good, by the way, I was thinking about how much time I spent with this guard, guys, this guard is only about two and a half years old. weeks of work on this card alone, it's finally time to put this Beast together. I ended up sharpening this thing for about four hours. I can't believe I'm actually going to be finished here in a minute, as long as I don't drop anything.

I cut myself everything is ready we are putting together the sword I will see you on the other side of putting this thing together and finishing it QB roll oh foreigner foreigner here's the sketch before and after it's finally finished I can't believe it it hasn't settled yet , this has been going on for a couple of hours guys, I don't think it's hit me yet because I've been working on this for three days in less than three months, this came out epically awesome. 36 inch leaf

mosaic

. Super high contrast damask, the finish turned out amazing. Blue mild steel fittings with 24k gold inlaid drops and drops.

Fossil walrus. The ivory fluted handle has my maker's mark here on the front spacer, which is something I've never done before and really stands out, master. Smith on the other hand, Deep Wide Fuller, when I said this took three months to make, also note that I was working on it 10 to 12 hours a day, so yes, you can do this too. They can make a sword like this. better things than this or just stick with it and give it your all and persevere and you may come out with something really cool in the end there may be some tears and sweat involved and maybe a little but it's really worth it in the future.

Wrap up, big shout out to Matt and Ilya for inviting us to be on their channel. I'm looking forward to

making

more videos with you in the future. Go check out my channel at Kyle Royerknives where we are dedicated to teaching you how to make knives I have also created a special playlist where I show you how to make this huge buoy and be sure to check out more videos of that works click here you are clicking okay, yeah, okay, good job, keep clicking.