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Knitters Large Storage Bag

Knitters Large Storage Bag
Welcome to SewVeryEasy, my name is Laura. The other day, my daughter asked me to make her a nice big project bag. She's a big knitter and she wants a bag that she can put everything in and keep it all together. Well, that just gives me one more reason to get back into my sewing room. Let's make a nice big project bag. My daughter asked at the perfect time because I just received my Fat Quarter Club in the mail. The club comes with six fat quarters—I'm only going to need four—and
knitters large storage bag
it also came with a very cute pattern. I'll be putting that free pattern aside for next time, but I'll definitely be using this beautiful fabric. The fabric is from Clothworks. I went through my stash of zippers and I was able to find a nice long red one. This is an old one; it looks like I've picked it out of something, but I do like re-purposing things. I'm also going to be using some medium fusible interfacing. Two fat quarters are needed for the outside of the bag and two fat
quarters are needed for the lining. The size of the fat quarters are going to depend on the size of the yard. If it's a meter it's going to be bigger than a yard, but we're looking at 15" by 22". I'm going to be able to join those together and I'll have a bag that has a two-tone front. You can actually sew these together even before you cut them apart. Place right sides together. Draw a line going down the center, and then stitch on each side of that line. Then we
can cut that right apart. I have my center line drawn and my two stitching rows on each side, ¼" from the line. You could rotary cut this apart or just use a pair of scissors. Now I have both my sides done. Press the seam allowance towards the dark fabric. From here you can do a row of topstitch right along the edge. Once the pieces are together I do like to put my fusible interfacing on first before I cut it. Then I can trim all four pieces to the same size. In this case I'm going to
be using Heat n Bond medium. You will need medium heat with steam/ You will need to hold that and press it on for about 10–15 seconds. Before you apply the interfacing, do press your fabric so that the fabric will not have permanent wrinkles in it. Once the interfacing has been fused onto all four pieces I'm going to trim them all the same size, and I'm going to stack them all up and do it at once. As you lay it out be sure to have your two seams lined up, and that way these edges
will match when the bag is put together. The size of the bag is not really that important. You can use whatever size you want, so I'm going to try to maximize the space that I have and make the bag as big as I can from the fat quarters, all while keeping my two tops and bottoms and two sides the same. You can use the straight edge where you joined your two pieces together as a guide, and that will help keep the ruler straight. I'm going to be able to trim through all four layers and that
interfacing all at the same time. I like to rotate my mat so that I always have the edge to my right. If you're left-handed you're going to want the cuts going to your left side. The second cut I'm going to be able to use the straight edge that I just did. At the moment I do not know what size I'm going to end up with. I'm just going to keep them all straight. Rotate my mat again and do my next edge, following that straight edge along the bottom. That can also double-check
with that seam. As you are cutting each edge, take a peek underneath and make sure that all of your fabrics have been cut off. That way we know all the pieces have been cut and we don't have a little short piece underneath. One more turn, and I'm going to cut the top, matching up my two straight edges. I'm going to continuously check to make sure all of the seams have been trimmed off. My size ends up being about 21½" by a little bit more than 17½". The sizes are not
important as long as all four pieces are the same. We have our two fronts and the two linings identical. From here we need to decide what is going to be the top of the bag and what is going to be the bottom. I still have all four pieces together. I want the solid fabric being to the bottom of the bag. You're going to have a flat bottom so you will have some to the bottom and then the rest to the top. I have the floral on the top, the solid on the bottom. With all four pieces together, I need
knitters large storage bag
to cut some corners out of the two bottoms. My corner squares are going to be cut at 3½". We will need 3½" from one edge, 3½" from the other, and square that off. By keeping all of these layers together, I have all of my blocks cut at the same time. I've cut the one bottom square; I'm going to cut the second bottom square the same way. On the top we need to cut out two more little squares, and cut those at 2". The next thing we need to do is find a zipper to match
that size. I have a zipper that's a lot bigger, which is what I want because I want to put some nice finishing touches on the end. Those little edges can come from those 3½" squares that we cut out, but we can choose whatever fabric we want. I'm going to use one of the lining fabrics, and we'll only need one. We can take that and cut it right in half, and that's going to go on the end of the zipper. The first thing I want to do is put the end on the pull side. Open up that
zipper so that the pull is not in your way. We're going to stitch this onto the end. We'll have the top of the zipper and the right side of the fabric matching. We can stitch right along that edge. That's going to close up that zipper, and then when we pull it back, it extends the front of that zipper. We have the front side of that zipper and the fabric together. When this opens up it's going to give a nice finish to the end. Do a row of topstitching along the edge of that
zipper. That row of topstitching is going to keep that zipper tape out of the way. We can trim this so it's the same size as your zipper. We now get to do the other side. I'm only going to use approximately 1" of this decorative fabric on the bag, so I'm going to make a 1" mark. For now I'm just going to pin it. This will help me gauge the size of the end of the zipper. That 1" mark is going to come to that top cut, so I will need at least 1" on the other
side. Trim this zipper so it's about 1½" shorter than this top. I can just trim that right off. We want to repeat the same technique on the top of the zipper as to the bottom. I now have a zipper that's going to fit a little bit in the top of the bag. For now, just leave on those ends. We now need to sew this zipper onto the two tops of the bag, and we do want to keep these edges straight. With the zipper on the top—and I can tell because my pull is here—I'm going to fold
that zipper over and stitch right along that edge. I can center that zipper now because I do have that extra. The first row of stitching I want to go as close as I can to the edge of that zipper, into the top of that bag. With the one side done I'm going to be able to match up the second side so my seams are the same. I will match up those two edges and sew as close as I can to the edge of the zipper tape. The zipper is now attached to the top of the bag. When we turn it over we can just lay
the lining on top of the bag while it is open. Make sure that the little squares are towards the top and keep those t3½" squares towards the bottom. We do need to sew the zipper Inside the lining. We can do one side at a time. I'm going to remove one lining. The second lining I'll be able to just fold over. I know it's going to go on this side, so it's going to go on this side of the zipper. Line up those edges and stitch that seam all the way down right off of the edge,
but we can do a


r seam allowance. That's going to attach the bag lining and front to that zipper a lot more securely. When we fold that fabric over, we have a front and a lining together and that seam is inside. The next lining is going to go in this position so we're going to take that and fold it. The top of the lining is going to fit the top of the zipper and when we pick that up we have the edges together. That other lining and bag front are inside so we get to ignore that. Same
knitters large storage bag
thing: Match up those edges and stitch a bigger seam allowance so we get in that seam and have a nice secure top. We can take these and press them so that they're nice and tight against the zipper. Once the lining and the front have been pressed away from the front of the zipper you can do a row of topstitching along each side. Once the topstitching is done we're going to be able to sew the bag together. We need to have the right sides together of the lining and the right side of the
front of the bag. But be sure to open up your zipper a little bit so you can turn your hand in when you need to. You only need a little bit. So the front of the bag is going to match and the lining of the bag is going to match. We have that little cut-out we did at the top and the


r cutouts on the edge. From here I would recommend the rest of the seams being ½". It's going to give you a little bit more strength, and it'll be easier to press after. For the front of the bag we
stitch along the one side, along the bottom, and the second side. For the lining we can stitch the two sides, but when we come to the bottom we're going to need to leave a bit of an opening. A hand-span opening is going to be a great measurement for this bag. I'm just going to put a mark on one side and on another. I'll be able to stitch from that mark to the edge and the other mark to the edge. This is going to leave this little space open. There'll be no stitching on those cut
corners. We can take that seam allowance and press it going towards the bag. We want to do that to both edges. So we're going to have that seam allowance pressed 𝙗𝙚𝙛𝙤𝙧𝙚 we turn it rightside-out. We're going to do that to all the seams, and in this bottom one we're going to pretend that stitching was there and fold it over and press it. With those edges pressed over it's going to give a nice finish to the outside of the bag when we turn it. We do have a lot of
openings that we can press this flat if we choose. We can put a wooden broomstick in, a wooden yardstick, even a piece of cardboard. We can put that right through. Now we're going to be able to iron that flat. By ironing over top of something we're not going to press anything else in the bag. We can do this to all of the seams. This extra pressing is definitely more work, but the end results will be well worth it. Next we get to do the bottom corners. We're going to want the two
seams to match up so we grab the two corners and pull those two corners and that seam is going to match right up. We can tuck the bag out of the way, match up those seams, and they're going to match nice because they're pressed flat. Stitch ½". We need to do that to all four of the corners by just grabbing that corner pulling it, and those seams will match up. I do like to backstitch on the beginning and the ending of the seams as I'm making the bag, just for stability. We have
two more seams to do and they're going to be closing up the top of the bag. That seam is very similar to how we did the bottom of the bag. The difference is is we have this piece that is sewn together. We want the two sides of the bag to come together, just like the bottom, so this piece will now become the center. It's going to seem a little awkward. We're going to take that one side and match it to the center of the zipper pull. We can use that as a handle. The second side is also
going to match the center of the zipper pull. Those cut edges are going to match up. We just need to ignore the rest of the bag and just focus on this little corner. Once we have those edges matched up we can trim this off so it's out of our way. You can gently manipulate these corners so that they come out. So we have that lining and the front of the bag and that zipper is inside, following this seam. If your edges don't match up, that's fine. With that nice ½" seam allowance,
we'll never know the difference when the bag is done. We need to backstitch a little bit at the beginning, then stitch right over top of everything and backstitch at that end. It ends up looking like the bottom of the bag. The difference is we have two edges tucked underneath. Then do the second edge. The bag really does have a funny shape. Clean up all of your threads and we can turn this bag right-side out. We do have that opening. We're going to be able to go right through through
that opening of the zipper, and that's why it's really important to open that zipper. Pull those bags together. While we have our hand in there we can take time and poke out our corners at the bottom and the top. Open up that zipper to give us some more room to work. Just push out those corners. This is what the bag is going to look like when it's turned rightside-out. We have a nice big bottom, we have a nice finish for that zipper, and the top of the bag has a flat top. We do have
that bottom of the bag where we can take those two seams and join them together. You can hand stitch them, but I don't mind just doing a row on the sewing machine, and that is going to be finished. Our bag is now done. The materials that were used were: 1 yd of interfacing, four fat quarters, and a zipper that was more than 14" long because we were able to trim that down. And now we end up with a nice big project bag. This is definitely going to fit my daughter's knitting. Thank you
for joining me today on SewVeryEasy. Feel free to subscribe and, as always, come on back. Let's see what we're sewing next time in the sewing room. Bye for now!