KnifeCenter FAQ #37: Cheapest Good Knife? + Knife Safety, Spyderco Alternatives, Work Sharp Upgrades

Hello everyone, David C. Andersen here from KnifeCenter. Welcome to KniFAQ number 37. The

knife

series where I answer all your questions about knives, whether

sharp

or dull. This week we'll go over some things like

knife

safety

, which is always very important, and how little money you can spend and still expect to get a

good

knife. Let's get into it. Did you get a new shirt? No. (KniFAQ) Alright, thanks to everyone who has left their questions in the comments section of these videos. As a result, we have some really cool things to talk about. If you'd like a chance to have one of your questions featured in a future episode, as always, leave it below.

Let's get into this week's first one, which comes from Matthew Dannic. David, you mentioned a couple of times that as you got deeper into blade forging, you upgraded from a Ken Onion edition

work

shop to a more robust one. I'm not sure you ever went into detail about what you ended up buying. But I'm interested. Sure, I'll talk a little about it. You won't be able to buy one yourself because what I have is cobbled together from a few different things. But essentially the next step up from a Ken Onion unit with the blade grinding attachment, which I love by the way, it's a fantastic unit.

But beyond that, you run into real professional metal and knife grinders, and the two-by-72-inch belt size is the most common. What I actually have is a dual two by 48 setup, it has a motor in the center wheel on each side. And I bought it from a machinist who more or less invented it himself from a few parts to do what he wanted. And then I modified it further. So on the left side I can

work

with the platen, on the right side I have a slack section and a little wheel holder so I can make different small spokes.

And then, of course, you have the contact wheels on each of the lower sides for variable speed work. I love it. It's really amazing. But it's not something I would recommend to most people because that's not who we are here for the hobbyist more or less. If you're getting into heavier blade

sharp

ening and stuff. I don't do any blacksmithing, I only dedicate myself to removing material. But that's the next step you'll want to start considering. Some people actually go up to one by 30 inch belts on some of these little hardware store sanders out there. That's certainly an option too, but it's definitely not a professional thing to do.

So thank you very much for the question. The next question comes from Dan in Michigan. I recently discovered that I have to adhere to a blade length limit. We are very sorry. So far I have had no problems and I would like to keep it that way. What folders could you suggest that are closed at least four inches, that have a sheet of no more than three inches? Don't shout tactics and the fact that they cost $100 or less and are American made is a plus. Sure Absolutely. What comes to mind here that fits those things. It has a classic look and has the length requirements you are looking for for an American product in that budget.

The Buck 112 slim pro right now, made in America, comes with a blade length of $80. There you have the required 30V steel for three inches under three inches, so you have some

good

materials there. Micarta or G 10 handles, this is the green micarta and unlike Buck's old school Rangers, it is not a super thick handle. This is definitely a pocket knife. Again, also thanks to that deep pocket clip that is reversible for left or right carry lock. Double thumb buttons, you have one hand opening and it doesn't scream tactical. It's just that a good pocket knife gives us that good amount of work capacity, for sure.

Some other good options. The Kershaw leek is always a fan favorite. I don't know if that's too tactical for you. But another option along similar lines, the Gerber fastball, again, with three-inch 30v blade aluminum handles, costs just under $100, has a liner lock and ball bearings in the pivot. So there's a lot more flipping, fast-paced action than that book, whether it gets too tactical, apparently, and in the area where you need that three-inch limit. It's up to you to decide any of these good materials, American construction and also some really nice designs. The next question comes from a Q.

I would like to know what is the

cheapest

EDC knife that you would fairly recommend. easy answer to the ka-bar folding bulldozer hunter in ahsay all day every day. $22 doesn't seem like a cheap knife even though it is very economical. Actually, this would also be a good budget option for our previous questioner because here you have a three inch long blade. Also eight steel as I said, but there are two D available. But I repeat, that is more expensive. You're looking to spend the least amount of good money here. So go for the Aus eight version, which actually costs a couple of dollars less.

You can get an even shorter blade, but I think a three-inch blade is where it's at. But with the same kind of quality, Zito makes sure that in this case you have a reversible pocket clip. You have a reversible thumb button and a rear lock. But if you have that great, versatile everyday carry blade with a neutral handle shape, it means almost anyone will be able to hold it very well. And while you may not feel like you're carrying a top-quality knife, it's not a cheap-looking knife either. Really good option. Actually, another would be the slim, select versions of that Ranger, which cost a couple of dollars more.

I think they have about 23 or 24 right now, but they have injection molded handles and 420 Hc blades. Another good option, but I guess Ka-Bar would accept it based on dollars alone since it's a skosh cheaper. Alright, the next one is forged by a dragon. Another one to compare the rat one two apart from the bK 40 is the ESEE Wasp. I'm going to go ahead and disagree with you, there are actually examples of both here. I have the rat one on top and the Wasp one on the bottom. Although in the profile photo, they look very similar. The blade itself is a little different.

You have two different drop points. What's more, this was a bit more like a spearhead. And the profile of the handle, at least in the side shots, looks the same and it's even the same guys who designed both knives, they are actually very different knives in actual use. The only thing rat knives have going for them, especially full-sized rats, are thicker handles. Here you have an economical work knife. Again, another good option, number two, especially for our previous questioner, but you have a hard-working knife that has a handle to withstand some of those tougher uses. The vispa is a really good knife, don't get me wrong at all.

But the handle is much thinner. I mean, if I hold them side by side, you can definitely see the difference there. If you need something with a larger blade, but don't need something with a handle that will handle really long cutting times or really heavy tasks, you'll be able to carry it around a little easier. Thanks to that thin nature. It's not as bulky in the pocket, it weighs a little less, about half an ounce than the Ontario, not a huge difference, but it's there. But yeah, that's why even though these guys are very similar in appearance from one side, they are very, very different animals in actual use, each of them good at a few different things a little more than the other.

The next question comes from x small country x. I have a challenge for you. I love the Spyderco shaman but he is out of my budget. Do you know any shaman like knives for about half the price? Sure, there's a Spyderco shaman here. Excellent knife here. $210 American made a little over three and a half inches of 30V high flat sharpening blade. 10g contoured handles and of course Spydercos compression lock. Really nice and very strong lock. And one of the key things about the shaman is that it is seen as a more difficult knife to use. It is a fairly comfortable knife to hold.

And the locking mechanism is strong and, more importantly, allows you to keep your fingers away from the edge when you close the knife. Then I have an option here for you. New SIG k 320 exclusive to Hogue's KnifeCenter. The KnifeCenter exclusive versions now have a 30V stonewashed blade, very similar in blade length, actually the sharp edge is about the same between these two knives. Similar style handles, it has black injection molded on the case of the SIG and it has a finger trail on the front, it actually matches very well. And well, it's not half the price, it almost costs around 119 right now for that sicko, and you also have their crossbar lock, which obviously nothing will be exactly the same as the compression lock, since it is a patented system by Spyderco, but you can do the same with it and keep your fingers out of the way of the blade.

It's nice and strong. He's even more ambidextrous than the Shaman and you can take that risk. Fun stuff too. I think these things are excellent and a pretty compelling and cheaper alternative to that shaman, both made in the USA too, which I really like. I also have another one here on the budget end of the spectrum. And that's the Gerber Sumo which is about $37, a little bit more blade length here, but you've got a stainless steel seven CR series, so obviously it's not going to hold an edge as long as the similar vibes type on certain way.

Probably, since you're ordering something in the half-price range, you're probably not looking at things in this budget range, but some other people might be. But again, all of these knives have excellent cutting geometry with high or completely flat sharpening. You also get a crossbar lock on this Sumo. Again, same benefits as compression locking. And it's a nice, comfortable g 10. Also on the handles. The next question comes from John Hughes. Wait...that John Hughes? It might be interesting to write from beyond. Hello DCA and KC, I loved the series, my favorite knife design of all time, it is the Spyderco tenacious, it is a really good design, the opening mechanism in the spidi hole of the blade compared to a star. looking to upgrade outside of Spyderco.

Do you have any suggestions with a similar size? In fact, I do. And we just looked at it. It's like this for SIG k 320. Again, with similar sizes, you have the aperture hole you want. You definitely have an improvement in the steel of the blade, a little less, it's a little less sharp itself. So a little less length to work with. But to start you have the s 30 v. One thing I didn't mention is a nice deep pocket clip with some nice ridges to grab and watch that guy. It is not a cheap knife. It is not very economical, but I think its price is very affordable.

Our next question is from Jerome Voss. Hey, David, that Rhino tool isn't an axe. It's a tuning fork. So he's talking about these mid read blades, Rhino Rescue x is around $280. Because in last week's video I made this thing still play. It's pretty cool. The first thing we noticed was that we actually just took it out of the kydex sheath. It was enough to make him vibrate. But a good tuning fork must be in tune. So let's see. I got my chromatic tuner app here from non-Fender sponsored content. You need complete silence for this to work.

We'll see. So it's a very high G. So it's not a good tuning fork. It's not a good thing. Good. You just have to tune everything slightly for this guy, if you want to do that kind of thing. Thanks for your question. Here we go. Which brings us to today's lightning round. J Hara gab 87 question, best truck knife. Something in your truck. I'm thinking something thick, meaty and almost indestructible. Just something that's ready to be thrown away and dirty. Becker BK two or ESEE five. Be a good place to start. If you want something bigger, Becker BK nine choppy or ESEE hoodless or Ontario SP five for the budget.

Look at those guys. They will be really good. Mike Blennerhassett asks: Hello, DCA. I'm looking for a gentleman's knife for a person without knives to give as gifts. Yeah, obviously, probably for a person who doesn't use knives, you don't need to spend a lot of money because most of them won't know the difference either way, but give them something nice. Give them something fancy. That seems more expensive than CJRB Ria. Another three-inch option here is a variety of things to get you started at about $30 or so. This particular one, exclusive to KnifeCenter with the pakka wood scales and powder metallurgy blade, I think is a really good sweet spot.

It costs about 55 dollars, it looks super elegant. It has that kind of timeless pocket knife vibes and you get a nice liner closure, one hand opening and also a pocket clip. Very pretty. The next question is from James Harris. How come obsidian isn't used in folders or straight knives? It's too fragile for thatkind of things. Very easy answer there. However, you hear things about some surgeons preferring obsidian scalpels, and there are companies that make them just because you know that when you get to the microscopic chipped edge, that crumbly edge or whatever you call it, it's sharper than it was then.

Even their advanced machines are capable of making steel like this, so as far as I'm concerned, it's pretty impressive and cool. Next question, Kenneth okcoin. My wife just gave birth to my baby, congratulations man. What would you recommend as a camping bushcraft knife to start the tradition? I would say anything for the right lieutenant, but especially the next generation model. This particular one is about 190 made in America. It is a pretty good size so it will work great when they are younger and have smaller hands. But it still feels good when you have slightly larger than average hands like I did when I grew up.

Really nice, they feel really great, have a classic, timeless look and are built to last. The next question is from Patrick 12. How can you tell a player from Germany from one from China? Very easy, he will say it somewhere on the page. If it has something that says Boker Plus then it's not a knife made in Germany, it's made somewhere outside, usually China, sometimes Taiwan, sometimes even the USA in some of the more premium, non-Boker or They are not German made. products. But the most telling thing is that you will have that big plus symbol there.

That's the Boker Plus, German-made Boker's, we'll say somewhere on the sheet. Usually Solingen or Solingen, Germany. I never know if I'm pronouncing it right or not. But again, right there, on the page. Interestingly, you also have Boker Arballito. Like another label, they are actually made in Buenos Aires. It's very easy to tell, because they are always quite direct in the labeling of their products. Next question Vir Elliott says ask, says and asks, I have started collecting knives and from time to time I find that I accidentally cut my fingers while handling them. Some of them have needed stitches.

My wife says she should give up this hobby. But there is no chance that good man. Apart from being careful. Are there any tips you can avoid? Give to avoid cutting yourself? Have I thought about purchasing cut resistant gloves? Or is this simply an unfortunate danger of this wonderful hobby? Yes, Be Careful aside, I can also say from experience that unfortunately, never trying to catch a falling machete doesn't work out very well for you. I have a nice big scar here on my joint to prove it, we won't focus too much on that, maybe it will make some people dizzy.

But as the saying goes, a falling knife has no handle. And it is very true. Just drop it, let it go where it is, cut resistant gloves might be a good idea. But I think what you have to do is, in part, learn how to use knives and, in part, learn to treat them with the respect they deserve. That will solve 99% of your problems right there. You probably still know a nickname here or there. I got one a little early. Earlier this week, it just happens. But really learn to respect the tools and they will treat you well at the same time.

Which brings us to our final question, the most serious of the day from the CP. If you had to chase someone with a knife just to scare them, why would you recommend a couple of things? Definitely some court ordered supervision, probably a restraining order, and almost definitely some therapy. They will, I think that covers it all. Thank you all for your questions. That's all we're going to get through today. Be sure to leave your own questions below and we'll select some for our future episodes. If you want to get your hands on some of these knives, we'll leave links in the description as always, which will take you to KnifeCenter.com and ensure you sign up for the knife rewards program.

So when you invest your hard-earned money on one of these knives, you'll earn some free money to spend on the next one. This is David C. Andersen from KnifeCenter signing off, see you next time. I swear there's a new shirt.