JUNK Jeep Ram 3.0 ECODIESEL Engine Teardown. Why Do These ALL Fail?

Today we are going to disassemble an

engine

that I have done before, but it has been almost 3 years. This is a 3 liter eco diesel from a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it's a pretty rare

engine

, it wasn't a very popular choice. For most people who bought them, yes, this is the same 3-liter turbodiesel found in the Ram EcoDiesel. I believe they are offered on other types of vehicles in other parts of the world. It is a VM Motori engine. It is an Italian designed V6. Things I learned the last time I posted a video about one and the last time I took one of these down the comments were I would say overwhelmingly negative about the motor itself and well after looking at this about 3 years later this doesn't look .

The 3 liter Eco diesel that came out for the 2014 model year is a lot of fun to work on. That's the year this engine is in. It is the first to produce 240 horsepower, 400 12-foot, PBS of torque which seems quite on par for its displacement and application. What I find really funny is that when you Google 3L Eco diesel you get this paragraph with autop stating that they are very fuel efficient and lightweight and will save the owner thousands of dollars over the life of the vehicle in fuel costs , let's choose that. I hate to separate things, but I guess that's what I do for a living over the life of a vehicle.

Does that mean that when the engine

fail

s you have saved that amount of money because at that point if you have a gasoline counterpart that still runs and this engine doesn't really save you money because the vehicle is worth substantially less or you are facing a repair bill economical. These used motors cost $8,000, plus you'll pay for labor and seals and gaskets. while you're there, things that are probably an A10 or $12,000 repair bill, have you saved any money by buying this? The first thing I would really like to know is if this motor spins and does it have a flex plate which gives me a lot of hope.

I hope the last one was locked up wrong. Did you know? I just need a bigger bar, that's clearly the problem here. Know. I think I just need to put a little more weight on it. Let's not, you know, maybe. We're just going in the wrong direction, um, that's the bolt, not the motor. I think it's blocked now too. I won't cut any of the wires. I don't think this harness is good, but I still don't like cutting. Cutting wires into harnesses unless I need pigtails for something I don't, so we'll just do what we can to disconnect everything the right way, especially after I busted the charging tube.

This looks like a glow plug. They give you these. little handles to get them out that's cute it looks like I'm already stuck that was fast I swear this isn't that complicated it can be so complicated that didn't do anything right it's looser it's just that I've decided what I'd like next To start, since I'm not getting nowhere with the harness, the EGR cooler and all the EGR lines will clean this up a lot better and we're going to start removing stuff. I have no idea if I'm doing this in the correct order and I would be remiss if I said I care, it moved, it's not even close to disconnected, although it is very tight.

I remember from the last one that many of the comments mentioned a melted intake manifold. I think it was in the EGR tube, which is this, it looks good, no that's bad, but from this point of view, the intake manifold doesn't look melted, correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems unfazed. Next thing we're going to do is work on the back of the engine where the turbo is uhoh, hopefully it won't break into the housing. I don't want that to happen oo, that feels bad, you know what this is going to break, let's tighten it.

I'm going to warm it up, okay, I've got it warm, see if we can't save it, please, maybe we'll get lucky. It broke. There's something sticking out, so there's a good chance you can get it out. If it's worth taking this bolt out, then come on, I think there's a few more things to disconnect here, the vacuum line seems impossible to separate, it looks like it's just that vacuum line, you know, we're going to sacrifice the plastic, maybe I'll sacrifice the rubber. I'm going to sacrifice the plastic. I'm going to pull a Lim and say I'm not going to sell that, uhoh, what have I done?

So here are the EGR parts, there is the tube that goes to the inlet. I'm going to regret it, but yuck, and here's the cooler. I don't seem to know if this is a sign of a coolant leak, that's definitely coolant, but is it from this or from splashing, is there some dry coolant everywhere? This motor seems like a pretty decent part, but again, is a used one worth installing? I don't know, let's remove these connectors from the injectors now. Last time, I'm pretty sure I cut them between the injectors. I am not going to do it. which again you guys yelled at me for that saying that line is too expensive so let's just take it all out find the other end of this everything will be fine next I'm going to drop the lines on the injectors and now take them off the rail here, we will solve it well.

I just looked on the Internet. Turns out you can buy these hoses for about $90. I'm still going to try to get them out without breaking them, but there's no guarantee here and I'm not going to cry when this has to be replaced with a new one anyway. I think so. Hey, there's one, two, that's not so bad. Once you know how to do it, now let's try to remove it. injectors, hopefully, they come out easy, oh yeah, that's super easy, it was a walk in the park, none broken ones show up, these few lines appear now, they can hang, man, they're tight, they were a little more stuck there, we'll get to that.

We only have one to deal with. I'm going to move it back and forth to try to loosen it. You know what we should do. Let's get a penetrator. Is it loosening up or am I getting stronger? Oh, now it's stuck. I did it. I'm going to let it sit and we're going to work on the injection pump. This is the fuel injection pump. Let's remove this cover. Let's break these lines. Let's stop first. Oh, we're not losing too much diesel. there and we've got two of these quick disconnects and we'll get this little locking tab now.

I think we can unscrew it. These usually don't get too stuck here. The blue will be soft here and there. Back to this injector mhm I don't really feel like prying that's the answer okay I put a wrench in the valley the wrench is actually around one of the valve cover bolts and we're going to try to pry this up. very softly. Well, that was easy. Here are the six injectors on this engine. I don't see any harm in them. The one that had a little corrosion on it made it a little harder to get out, but I think these will be good cores.

I usually don't sell diesel injectors this good unless I know it works and has an alternative problem. I don't know if this engine ran well before it stalled and we don't know if it's a fuel problem, so I usually sell them. these as cores now this is a CP4 injection pump and the next thing we are going to do is remove the metering valve. The fuel contamination check seems pretty decent. I don't see any problems at all, so there is the valve and if there is contamination. You would find it on the screen. Everything looks very clean below.

I'm going to continue with this harness. More fuel lines that were violent. We are reaching places that did not help me. I'm not sure how they come out. Here, oh, we can just pull them. I guess we're, we're, we're making progress here and the fuel lines are off. There's more cleaning to do here. This is good. Things are well. Things are not good right now. okay, we'll leave it at that, okay, we need to put this harness in blue, we still have more connectors of course, just a few dozen more, well this is unfortunate, so this was locked, I just need to do that.

I'm sure we are very close to removing this harness. I'm sure there can't be much more. I shouldn't have said that I only see a couple more connectors, honestly, so I only have this connector left. that has a locking tab and is in a not so good area to access, we'll get it and just like that super simple, the harness is off, now we're going to start on the turbocharger. I'm sure it's super. simple it won't take more than a second or it may take a while let's start with this downspout ooh, that looks like it's going to break ooh, that looks like it's going to break, you know what, let's get this hot, okay?

Got this a little warm, hope that makes a difference, oh yeah, well I can't touch it with my hands, but it's loose, let's try the one below it, it's working, this one is pulling out a bolt, which is fine until get to this point. I'll go back to that, I'll go back to this one here and continue like right at the end here, well, the stud broke a little bit, but I'm not really that worried about that because I'm pretty sure I can get it. the rest of that bolt next we're going to work on this side of the engine.

I guess I'll start with the dipstick, it's screwed in, how bad could this be? It came out right after, there's a heat shield here, next we're I'm going to remove what I think is an exhaust pressure sensor. I could be wrong. We're just going to get this out of the way, so I warmed them up ahead of time. Let's see if we can remove them without breaking. the bolts came out of that one I don't want to touch that let's see if we can get lucky with the second one and the last one here perfect next I would like to remove the exhaust manifold but first we are going to spray penetrator on all these studs and it looks like I need to remove this pipe first , well I guess I have to remove the bracket first, that wasn't too bad, let's just close them real quick.

I think this comes off now like a hot glove. Next, I'm going to remove this heat protector. I did that job. Go ahead and remove this bolt as well. Now I'm not sure if you call it a riser pipe or not, but to get to the bolts that hold it to the turbo, turbo exhaust housing. I'm going to remove this coolant line, it just makes it a little bit easier and we have coolant, that's what we do there. In fact, I'm going to work on removing the oil cooler, the oil filter that houses this unit right here.

I need to get to the exhaust manifold bolts. There's just a lot going on here. Is this going to leak everywhere? Probably not. I'm pretty sure there are probably more things that either hold this in or not and it just comes out. really easy and it's making a mess. I don't know what this is doing there, but it doesn't go there like on the other side. We're going to spray this with a penetrator while we wait for it to set. Let's get this bracket out of the way, well the next three bolts I need to put nuts on the bolts.

There are two that are actually pretty easy to get to, but the one at the back might be a little challenging, let's see what we can do. Can I approach it from this point of view? I think so, I'm sure it's very easy to get started, although I think it's fair to say that most of these things are done with the cab off or the engine off I'm sure. that Grand Cherokee is the worst to work on bolt number two and the end bolt extension um very good, now we can get the left side exhaust manifold.

Now this exhaust manifold should slide out. Now we are next to remove the oil feed. for the turbocharger there's a banjo bolt up here and there's a banjo connector down here for one of the coolant tubes. I'm going to assume it drives on the other side of the turbo, but I could be wrong, it's also very tight, that was violent actually. That is the oil feed line. I didn't know that, so how do you get to the other refrigerant line? I feel like I ran into this last time, so I know it's hard to see, but right there is the connector for the other coolant line.

I guess I'll try removing some of these thermal sheets. I don't think that will help me at all. Oh, maybe so. Are we on to something? Oh yeah, that's how it's normally done. All this. There are things that get in the way. I think it's a 19, but what I'm going to do is use precision carefully and get access. I wouldn't work on your car this way, but this is a mid-engine so it doesn't matter. Here it goes. something, look at that, now we can unscrew the Turbo from the engine and see what happens. Wow, they're tight.

Do I need to get the torch out for this? Maybe I've decided that the right thing to do is to use impact. Look at the right thing. Can I touch all the ones that hold the turbo to see if this turbo is coming out, so I went ahead and pulled the little turbo inlet out. You can see that the turbo turns well, the impeller looks pretty good. I don't see any. debris damage no abnormal or abnormal game turns nice exhaust housing has a broken bolt there and a broken bolt there no it's not super damaging they can be removed I don't see any other damage anywhere else I think this turbo came out of this Much easier engine than the last one I took down.

I can't really take a look at the uh vgt actuator. I don't really have a way to prove it, but I will tell you this is original, this is a 2013 date code, so it's original to the engine, next we're going to remove this intake manifold. Hopefully,I don't see anything hidden, we're just going to try some things. I could be wrong, it's happened many, many times, yeah, more screws, look, that's why I don't get into crazy stuff like, I don't know if you really want to call this a throttle body, but let's get this out of the way, right? which one holds it there?

We are, admission is off. Let's take a look at these intake ports. Diesel engines with M emissions look like this. I wouldn't say it's worse than any of the other emissions diesels we've shot down, it just doesn't look good and is very difficult to see. the valves because of the cylinder head design and everything is like the black abyss ooh ooh it has bits in it that are not good for flow so here is the intake manifold and it doesn't look melted but this will take a little time. extra good cleanup to make this usable look at the amount of buildup on that I wonder if there's anything you can do to detect things being removed no, I would never recommend, uh, doing that, no, that would be terrible, next thing I'm going What to do is clean the engine caboose here, just take out some of these bolts, some of these pipes.

I don't know if that will really help us, but you might look at that unit next. I'm going to remove the fuel rails. I feel like I sold the fuel rails off the last engine pretty easily or they are full of fuel and we finally get to the point in the disassembly where we can remove the valve cover. I suppose I could have done it sooner, but I didn't want to remove all the other ancillary parts, I'm sure this will come out right away. There we are. In fact, I'm surprised it's pretty clean in here. There aren't tons of slugs that I normally see when I take apart a modern Diesel.

It looks pretty good. I would say whoever owns it probably uses good oil and probably changes the oil fairly frequently and I don't see any problems with the chain. Everything seems solid to get to all the valve cover bolts on the left. On the other hand, you need to remove this strange device here, it seems a bit unnecessary, but it probably has nothing to do with the packaging. I hope this turns out just as easy. Here's a good look at how clean it is. I'm really surprised. It has to be one of the cleanest diesels we have ever made at least the emissions diesels we have made in this channel.

I don't see any forbidden glitter. The cam lobes look good. All valve trains in place. The chain looks good. Next we'll start with the upper distribution covers, we'll start on the right side. I'm pretty sure I got all the bolts out, we'll find out right now and there's our first look inside. Sync system so far everything looks pretty good. I don't really see any signs of concern yet, let's go to the other side, let's get this turnbuckle out of the way. I see my battery is low, now is the time to try removing this. There is a pressure sensor here and I assume it has to do with the crankcase ventilation.

Is there somewhere to pry that isn't inside the crankcase? I don't really like prying things inside, that's not how we're going to do it. do that, that's wrong, there must be a way, let's try to hit him from behind, that's not what I meant, I think we broke the seal, hey, we're getting places good and leaving good, I still don't see anything wrong here. It all feels like you're opening a good engine that just happened to be blocked. Now it's time for the water pump. At this point, I think the entire unit can come out, but I want to take a look at the pump itself so I can take out these hex sockets or hex hex bolts.

I have no idea if they needed to be taken out, but I took them out anyway, okay, let's give him a pair, oh wait, I'm missing one. If one is missing, it will work poorly. I have an upside down bolt right here so I really don't know what to expect here. Well, it looks like the whole unit is going out. What is it? What is it? It's out, this is falling apart one way or another, let's get this water pipe out, oh, we're, we're halfway there. I can see it, this is falling apart, right? Or is it a sealed unit?

I feel like this might be a sealed unit, let's keep trying, it's not working folks, but it spins great, it's wet here, but it's probably just the gasket, you can see the impellers there, it looks pretty decent. I think once you remove this thermostat it would be a good option. water pump next stop crankshaft pulley city no puller needed there now we'll start unscrewing the lower timing cover that's the loose sound oh this side doesn't even have a place to do that okay there we are it's pretty dirty but It's not that Bad, since we've seen a lot of debris fall on this when I took it out.

Let's take a look at the timing system of this engine. It looks pretty good. I found some date codes from 2013, which means I don't think anyone was there. Here, replacing parts, I can't see them anyway. I don't see any signs that the guidelines are breaking down. Everything looks good and I don't really see a lot of bad things at the bottom, so it's very hard to tell so far. I remove any of the timing components, we're going to loosen the cam gear bolts, they're tight, next we're going to remove the timing chain tensioners. I have no idea how much power is behind them, so you better be sure. and I'm sorry, oh things flew, let's do it again, that was violent but not as violent as the first one.

I have no idea where it went oh man I really have to go I hope no one is here it's so clean God over my safety toad I never know what can happen here oh oh God I'm busy I have a bag safety, let's take a look at this tensioner, ah, stop. Next I'm going to do the paperwork. I'm going to release all the T4s to hold the rails on the first rail. It is actually in very good condition. I wonder how many miles this one had. From what I can see, it doesn't look like a very high mileage engine.

It's a good rail. The same here. This thing is just perfect. Let's see if we can get it. can we do this eh yeah no yeah that's great oh that was bad what do you mean it doesn't turn out well? We'll have to do it this way oh yeah beautiful uhoh I see bad things the rail is in good shape but it has bearing or metal flakes on it that's not where they go so this is what I'm talking about we have some problems on the end bottom, I mean, we knew it's already locked, perfect, let's just go ahead and get this. coolant tube out of the way, now it's finally time to remove these booster caps, these are M8 triple squares, well I gave the journals a brake cleaning bath because they were dirty and don't they look terrible, all rollers They feel good, this thing looks nice. well taken care of at this point a little bit of line something got in there this is probably the worst here I also gave the cams and caps a clean brake bath they don't look bad maybe a little wear there and that has some wear and one It has some wear too I think they are definitely useful although I don't think they are too worn as some of the things we take apart on this channel seem pretty solid especially considering what you suspect is a background.

End of problem now it's time to remove the head bolts. I don't remember how tight they were on the last one. I hope they are tight because it is a diesel. Well, let's get another adapter. Alright. What I'm going to finish. one of these things is fine, so now I have one from a great city in Pennsylvania. This probably won't work, no, it's going to break, it's going to break. You know, I really wanted to rip his head off tonight, but it doesn't seem like it. As if that were going to happen, no, it's bad enough.

I already twisted it. This must wait until tomorrow. I guess I'm done for tonight. I found another one at the store. He is not mine. I hope we don't break it. I'm going home okay let's try this again with a new half inch socket instead of 38 that was definitely short sighted on my part this is a tight fit yeah it worked let's take a look at these big things What are they. some meaty bolts, okay now, hopefully this cylinder head should come off immediately oh, I already see some bad things, can you see it? you should be able to see it.

It is a piston smashed against the cylinder head. It looks like you tried to make your own valve reliefs. Look how clean the piston is, the cylinder walls don't look good the top looks rough that one looks pretty good that one looks good but this one isn't that good in the name of science the test isn't like that I mean, Did we expect something? this is the block it's solid the head gasket doesn't look too bad it's definitely in good shape now I don't like going back to the front but let's start at the back of the engine those two pretty Sy but this one this one has a clear imprint of the piston when hitting him.

The only way a piston makes contact with the cylinder head is when a rod bearing is missing or someone installed the wrong length connecting rod, which I don't know, that's not what happened here. See the shape of the piston in the valves. Hopefully the head is okay. Now we'll start on the other bank and remove these cam covers. This side has about the same amount of wear on these journals. The intake cam journals look pretty good. The rollers feel good too. on this side, but the exhaust, oh, okay, one looks good, the other one doesn't look so bad.

This one has some moderate damage. The intake chamber on the right bank is not terrible. The caps show some wear more than I would like but some wear is more than I would like the exhaust is the worst time to break these head bolts oh ok I hope this one comes off as easily like the other one, so this side looks better, there are no marks from the cylinder head or valves, so it is an A plus cylinder wall. It doesn't look horrible, eh, there's a little bit of damage, some scratches and ridges, it'll look a lot better once we separate this completely and when I say better, you know what I mean, ah, of course, the proof, does it?

How could I forget anything? Not surprisingly, this head looks much better because it hasn't been hit with a piston, the head gasket, as well as the other side, looks pretty good. Next, we're going to turn this thing over so we can get the oil pans out. I heard something. loose things oh oh, did you hear that? I think this bottom tray has been removed. Do you know what we are going to do? We are going to remove only the bottom tray with it in a vertical position. Look, what do we find here? It looks like most of the screws out of this, I missed one no, oh that's really bad, look at this bearing board, look at all the different pieces, there are big pieces, little pieces, all kinds of pieces, we have some Reynolds bearing shell right there, you guys told me that's what it's called.

I can't tell you how much crap there is in this for an engine that didn't throw a rod. I'm really impressed, it's every inch of this. I can understand why it is blocked. The question is how this is going to be dismantled because it has already partially fallen apart. It's one of the most impressive party dishes we've seen in one of these engines that didn't have block chunks. Now let's wind this all the way up, oh there's more here, look at everything, are there any bearings left in this motor or is it all in the tray?

The truck looks pretty clean, so why is there a bunch of bearing material here next? I'll pull the upper oil pan, okay, I think I have them all, except no, they're all on the outside. You should be able to lift this up fairly easily. I think there's a sensor of some kind back here and the upper crankcase is off, uh. there are some problems going on here this windbreak tray is now a windbreak tray I didn't expect to find Carnage on this engine I really didn't so this is a challenge I call it a pleasant surprise this is what It's inside the top tray.

The tray looks pretty bad, it's definitely not as bad as what's in this bottom tray, it's just a mess, so obviously something is trying to make a quick exit. These blocks look pretty sturdy, so they probably kept it in, although I'm a little suspicious of the inferior oil. The tray was already off, so we may be missing some of the explosive pieces. You can definitely see something squishing pretty hard. Next, let's remove the collection tube. We'll start with this blow tray and the big reveal, it looks like we're missing one. Will we find it somewhere else here?

You can see it was cut almost completely in the middle, probably when the rod cap came loose, so I'd venture to say it's probably missing whoever pulled the bottom part. Pan probably has it from this angle. I was really sad because I realized there was some damage right there, look at that Prett prti color, but then when I looked at it from this point of view, there's the lid, yeah, it's still present. next I'm going to remove the bearing pump, I mean the oil pump, I don't know what bolts are needed, it seems loose, there we are, let's take this apart, that's enough, just give it a little help, here we go, how ?

Isn't this not falling apartthis falls apart right why wouldn't this fall apart why would it be okay I'm going to clean this all up so we can take a look at what we have so this home definitely has some wear and tear it's not as bad as you would expect from the amount of material that we found in the tray, the outer gear somewhere and the inside definitely shows some signs that the metal went through there, you can see that if my camera focused, you could Look how gritty the texture is, take a good look at it, it's not supposed so be it, this case has a similar story and that kit is also pretty dirty, didn't do a good job cleaning that one and the outer case is probably the most beautiful. shape of all of them so I just slid this gear, well, there's a key, come on, get out of there.

I think this one comes out too well. I can see that the main bearing is not rotating, that is different from before. Now it's time to split the engine. We're going to remove this base plate, we're going to start with the smaller bolts, now we're going to loosen them in some kind of pattern, you know, this is already totally destroyed, let's use the impact, unfortunately, I need to remove one of the four motors. bracket bolts okay, now we need to find a place to pry it up, yeah, that worked fine, we're ready to remove the base plate, here's a better view of Carnage and it looks like this one pops out right there.

It's not going to come right out, it's going to take a little bit of violence to come out, but another thing I noticed is that this main bearing has spun, so this bearing destroyed itself, it's just that's what we found in the pan that This can rotate. It doesn't really say much with these two these two look good, we don't know what the rest of the rod bearings look like, that one looks good too. I'm going to try turning the crank back, you know what to do. put the bolt back in, this is going to work and if it doesn't work you should have, that's not going to work let's get the bigger bar so it really doesn't work.

I'm going to break that bolt on the crank SN and then it's useless, not that no, this isn't going to work, let's see if we can't, this is totally stuck here, let's get this B bolt out of the way, I really don't want to do it. anything that's going to damage the crankshaft oh, I think I moved to see if old blue can get this thing out of here that's not even close to giving. I really need to turn the crank counterclockwise. It will work? I don't know if I'm going to do it. try it, sure, oh yeah, look at that, well, it's looser, I mean, we're just going to unscrew the rest of the caps, remove the crank, that's what we're going to have to do, of course.

I will always start at the front and there is no need to unscrew it. I forgot about that? I can do things out of order. Alright. Now I think we can get the hammer out. Mill. Let's see what happens here. Well, we're dropping things. It's just a thrust bearing, so this is what we're looking at here, there's the rod cap, the infamous rod cap, it's in exceptional condition. Forged hammer. I'm sure this was just a silence, it just stuck at idle, no associated noise, no warning light. Is it something unexpected? Bearings. Now we will start pulling the rods and pistons.

We'll do this bench first. No, we're going to need help with this one. This one really doesn't want to go out. I think so. We're crowning, here we go, that took a lot to get the first one. I hope the next ones come out a little easier. These are really tough there. I think it's that carbon ridge on the top and I don't have a ridge reamer here. That would be smart, that would help, oh yeah, doing it isn't enough, although I hope they come out pretty easy. I have my doubts. I think it was the easiest last cylinder.

Let's start with the connecting rod bearings. The top casing has quite a bit of wear. and that's because of the thrust and the reason it's offset is because the rod is offset. They make this so you can pop the rod assembly out of the top of the hole, otherwise it wouldn't fit because the bearing diameter is too big. This is the Most Carnage in the engine, obviously, it's pretty terrible. You never want to have your rod cap shaped like this. It takes a lot of force to do this and as you can see there is a lot of heat on the top of this rod because it killed this bearing.

I imagine most of the bearing scale these things that we found in the upper and lower oil pan were of this particular connecting rod bearing and the neighboring connecting rod. I look, there's some marks on it, there's one right there, it's actually not as badly beat up as I expected and then when you roll back, there's significant wear on the bearings, a lot of wear and the rods and the pistons, this one has a major indentation. which made removing this bolt much more difficult than necessary for Pistons. they all have significant wear on the skirts, lots of build up in the ring areas but the rings are all free, that piston looks good on top, this one is the most exciting one, it has new valve tracks but I didn't see none other.

Damage to the piston plus again wear of the skirt. I haven't tried cleaning them maybe I will yeah I will right now so the oil ring on this piston broke when I was cleaning them. I do not do it. I think that was it except me cleaning them, but the rest of these didn't clean up as well. The skirts are not as bad as they looked before. The reason they were so difficult to remove was that carbon ridge on top. I can see that it is also on the top of the piston in the crown. Now I don't think any of these are worth reusing.

Not a single one I would put on any of these engines again, but they make a great desk or ornament, so if you want one of these for your desk, send us an email. We have most of six to sell. We'll run it through the parts washer first, that way they'll be as clean as I assume they can be. It was a lot of work to get them. next the main bearings have pretty significant wear on the front knuckle and this one is rotated, you can see when you turn it, there is the damage, this one has even more damage, pretty heavy wear on that housing, plus they are all pretty worn , sincerely.

I really think the bearing width and journal width of this engine has a lot to do with how they have worn and how significant the wear is on these bearings because it's not a lot of surface area, I think they try to compensate for it. in diameter and not in width, the crank is very rough, let me turn this so we can see it better, so the stump is cooked. You can see the discoloration on the crankshaft that matches the color of the connecting rod. There's a lot. Heat, lots of friction as the days of the crank are over.

That diary is also very hard. The rest of these aren't so bad. The further away from the damage, the better they look on the inside of the base plate. There are the marks of this effort. Cast iron is quite strong. and there's the damage to the block, quite significant damage to the bottom of the bore, but as mangled as the rod cap is, it held up very well. I think it's a pretty strong block, let's take a look at these tables, this is a loose cylinder. here and you can definitely see that there is damage to the bottom of the bore, so there is matching damage to the bore due to the cylinder next to it, although it looks much better and you can see that ridge on the top, that ridge of carbon which is what made getting the r out of the pistons so difficult this bench isn't that bad it's just a cleaning I didn't do.

I have read a lot of things about the causes of this type of

fail

ure with an EcoDiesel, one of the things I see mentioned a lot is incorrect used oil and another thing is extended oil change intervals. Early engines had an oil change interval that was too long. I have no idea what exactly killed this one, it was probably an oil problem and with an engine with so much stuff packed so close together. It's a recipe for big labor bills when things go wrong. I can't imagine owning one of these vehicles and having a coolant leak every couple of years with one of those hoses in the back. of the engine, especially if you had a Grand Cherokee and I'm not criticizing these vehicles, I don't think they are terrible vehicles, but unless you do all the work yourself and have a lot of time on your hands, owning one of these could be very expensive in the long run , maybe in the short term they would be great and I know some people have had great luck with these things but like everything else there are outliers, they have engines that do 250,300,000 miles built on a Wednesday and then you have your Monday engines in the morning or Friday afternoon and I really don't know, this is only the second one of these I've taken apart, but I'm not the biggest fan and it's not like I don't.

I think they are great. I love the idea of ​​different types of engines and different types of vehicles. I just think this engine was so tight that there are so many things that work against the ease of ownership and that's what I like. I like vehicles. that are easy to own like an E90 328 with a manual like this this is an easy car to own there are just a few things that go wrong and it doesn't happen but once every 100 to 150,000 miles an EcoDiesel maybe you have luck, maybe Don't let me know what you guys think, what do you think killed this engine because it looked like it was pretty well maintained and most of the bearing wear was due to Power, it was in the thrust area of ​​the bearing so that I didn't do it?

I don't see anything abnormal, the cams look good, there wasn't a ton of sludge in this engine. I definitely think it had some miles on it, maybe 100,000 120,000, but I will never know because unfortunately I don't get that kind of detail at some of the places I buy engines now, if you want to buy any parts from this engine it has a lot of really good parts that still They could be in good shape and some good stuff for your desk or anything else you broke. down or out of this 59,000 miles I know it's very sad 2008 328 with six speed manual.

I'll leave our email in the video description. You can also go to import apart.com and check out our inventory that I have been uploading. our cars spare parts every week. I really hope you enjoyed this video as always. I love all the comments, all the feedback and even the criticism. I love it all and I'll see you in the next one.