How to Use a Multimeter - Detailed Tutorial

Hey guys Jay, here with some advice. TV on a lot of my boiler repair videos, people have been asking me to make a video on how to use a

multimeter

and go over all its features and what it does, finally here I am. I'm making this video and this video is going to be two parts, in the first part I want to go over the meter itself and then all the features, everything it can measure and what it can check, and in the second part I'll do that. Go over to my oven and then we can do some of those checks using these functions on the oven, so let's dive right into the meter that I'm going to review today.

This is my favorite meter. I've had a couple before I won. I don't consider myself a meter expert, but I've owned about four or five in the past, including older models of this one, and this is by far the best meter I've ever owned. This meter is the UEI G2 Phoenix and this is the DL 389 model and this meter comes with some accessories. When you buy it, of course, it comes with some meter leads and then the other thing I really liked is that they come with these alligator clips that you can attach to the meter leads. which is actually very useful sometimes, um, there's just some wires inside and you can just screw them onto your wires like this, so it's almost like having a third hand to be able to connect this to some wire terminal, connect both.

If you want, you'll have your hands free to hold the meter and then remove the screws or do anything else with your hands, so that's pretty cool. I like that it comes with those clips. Other meters I had never came with these. little alligators with them so when I bought this meter I really liked these little alligators and the last thing it comes with a temperature probe so if you ever need to measure some temperature it gives you this thing just plug it into the bottom of your meter and you can use this small thermal pair end to measure temperatures.

You can stick it on a supply duct or return duct or maybe you lost your clamp to run the refrigerant pipes on the air conditioner outside. Sometimes I had to do that. before where you just wrap this around the pipe and just put some black electrical tape around it and you can measure the temperatures that way and you also know the temperatures to figure out the work. I always use a Pok in thermometer but I lose them a lot so this is also very useful for that, if I don't have any more thermometers left I can use it as a backup so it's definitely good to have with your meter so those are the accessories .

I just wanted to go over them quickly so you know. They come with them and of course it comes with the bag that you put the meter in, but the most important part of course is the meter itself so let's go over this in a little more detail, the meter itself is actually resistant. My meter follows the motto of what doesn't kill you makes you stronger. I have dropped it several times and it recovered and was stronger than ever. I had this meter for probably about 3 or 4 years and it's gone. I've been through a lot and really the only damage I'm seeing is that this soft magnetic pad on the back here just slides around a little bit, other than the meter being completely intact there is no damage at all even though it has suffered some abuse.

The body is made of rigid plastic and on the sides there are these ridges for grips and what I love about this meter is that although it doesn't look like it has a lot of features, this meter actually has a lot of stuff packed into it. practically everything that an HVAC technician or any appliance repair technician would need in the past, the functions that this meter has would be divided into three meters, it would have an amperage clamp, a meter to read voltages, a meter to read resistance In its whole. Lots of different meters, this one combines everything in one which is really nice as you don't have to carry multiple meters with you.

There are four things I really love about this meter. The first is that it has a backlight, so if you press the Hold button and hold it for 2 seconds. The backlight turns on along with a small work light. It also has a voltage pencil function. Non-contact voltage. You could use this meter as a voltage pencil to see if there are live wires using the tip. of the meter right here, I'll show an example of how it works later in the video to turn off the light, just press and hold the hold button again to turn it off and have the backlight, have the voltage pencil and the magnet.

It is essential. I love this magnet on the back. My meter is used a lot here. As you can see, that little pad is starting to slide up a little bit, but it still works great and the fourth thing I like about this meter. It is the auto range function. I think it's really amazing. I use it all the time, so it basically selects the range for you on older

multimeter

s. You have to manually select the range, for example it will let you know 400 ohms 4K ohms 40K ohms 400k ohms etc. etc., the same with amplifiers, there will be multiple selections of amplifiers that you can select and voltages, while this, the external range function, it automatically detects and measures how much voltage it is measuring and adjusts accordingly automatically so that here you only have a voltage selection and a resistance selection because this will automatically detect what you are reading.

These markers on the amperage clamp here are actually little indicators that show you where is the best place to take an amperage draw, so if you hold your meter around a wire, whether the wire is right in the center or basically in the crosshairs of these markers, you're going to get the best reading in that spot, right there, the amp clamp also has a cable holder so you can put a cable right on top. and get to hard to reach places that way so if you're checking the voltage of something you can just stick it in there and it helps you get into tight places so that's nice.

I don't use that stand too often but when you need it in a tight space it's very handy to have and on the back of the meter of course we have a place for the Le cables to go so you don't have to have them hanging on somewhere, you can just plug in the cables. the back like this, this meter takes two AAA batteries which are on the back here and I actually like that there's a screw that holds the cover down because on other meters that I've had, if you drop the meter, usually this cover just goes away. flying and sometimes it flies so far that you can't find that cover anymore, so there are the two batteries and later in the video I'm going to go over the temperature.

This meter can measure temperatures and you can actually adjust the temperature reading. Stick a small flathead screwdriver in this little hole here and adjust the temperature of your meter if you think the temperatures are low and the amp clamp on this meter is on. removable reality. It's an adapter that just clips on from the top if you just grab it. firmly and pull on the top to remove it and you can actually buy an adapter which is a hook probe amplifier clamp, it's just a very thin one that you can get into tight spaces and just hook it to a cable to check the draw of energy that way. so that's just another cool feature that this meter has and then to put it back in just press down and it will snap back into place at the bottom you'll have the ports for your meter wires the black turns common and red becomes common. on red and I always like to check my meter wires by putting my meter in continuity right there that little sonar symbol and if you put two of your wires together you should hear a beep that means there is continuity between the two wires and you know the wires of the meter, the wires are not broken anywhere or the ends here sometimes crack, so every once in a while it's good to check the meter wires and make sure they're okay and there are no cracks in the wires, and now let's go To review all the options this meter has or all the buttons, so this is your main dial switch to select all your measurements.

We'll start from the bottom and just go up to the top. The first is the voltage. You can check CC. or AC volts and when they are both in the same place, that means you can measure AC or DC or you can press this select button right here and that will change this little wave symbol to your DC symbol and you can check the DC voltage that way and I would use this setup to check the mudas as well, so this MV symbol appeared right there and this meter, like any other digital meter, will have a bunch of abbreviations and I'll go ahead and put up a little printout from the manual of what What all these symbols mean and in fact I will also put a link in the description where you can find the manual for this meter online.

You also have a lot of good information there and I guess I should mention that the dual screen that you see, the top screen will always be for the adapter, so in my case it will be the amp clamp here, so the top screen will always be ampdraw, while the bottom screen will be what you select. This selection knob right here, this meter also has a maximum and minimum capture, which means it will record the maximum amperage draw or the minimum amperage draw, so if you just press Max, Max shows up there, so it's good for input current, such as.

An AC compressor that is starting up sometimes wants to look at the input current to see if it is drawing locked rotor amps, in that case using this maximum setting would be perfect for that scenario and can capture the maximum or minimum voltage, draw of current or resistance. Personally I always use the auto range feature and have the meter automatically detect what I'm reading, but if you want to adjust it manually you can just click on this range button and you can see the decimal move and you can manually adjust the sensitivity . you want it to be the me meter and the only time I use the manual range is when I'm measuring the input current.

In fact, the manual also recommends that whenever you use the maximum setting you use your manual range to manually select what type of range you expect to see because the meter gets a faster reading when it is on manual than when it is on auto and at the bottom right here it has Herz and the duty cycle so you can measure Hertz and the duty cycle with this meter like Well, if you press that button, if you press it once, it will measure Hertz, so in the United States the standard is about 60 Herz for electricity and if you press it again it goes to the duty cycle.

Now, the duty cycle. I know what it does, but. for HVAC I never used this and if you're watching this video and you actually use the duty cycle it would be interesting to know how you use it so if you get a chance let us know in the comments below but anyway the duty cycle and In some applications, electrical loads turn on and off quickly, so the duty cycle actually captures the percentage of time the load is energized, so this feature would be more used by mechanics like RPM and a motor, but for HVAC I've actually never used a duty cycle from time to time.

I'll measure the Hertz to see if you need an electrician or not, but I never use the duty cycle, but anyway that's what this button does, so let's move on after the voltage you have. ohms, which is that inverted horseshoe symbol that is used to measure resistance and we will take some resistance measurements later in the video in the oven and next in line there are two selections here: the diode test and the continuity test the continuity test We did this before with our meter leads and what you should know about the continuity test is that it is mainly to check how a piece of wire or a closed switch is not designed for large loads so according to the manual, is 50 ohms or less. the continuity feature with the beep is really just there to check if a switch is closed or not or if you have a broken wire and we will do some continuity checks on the oven as well as to check the diode if you press the select button. changes continuity to the diode and that little diode symbol appears at the bottom of the screen and the diode usually looks like a little barrel looking thing and it almost works as a check valve for electricity, so it allows electricity to go in one direction but not the other way around, to test if that diode is good or not you could use that diode check right there.

I don't use that feature in my HVAC field, maybe someone will if you do and use this feature all the time. It's also interesting to know if you could let us know in the comments how you use it and what you use it for, maybe on dashboards, but I usually don't delve into dashboards.control and check which diode is defective. I just replaced everything. board, but anyway this meter can check diodes if necessary, so the next setup we have is the MFD or capacitance to check the capacitors, which is really good for air conditioners and furnaces, and we will check the capacitors in the furnace to show you know how it works, the next setting is microampere, this is a very important feature to measure the flame signal in a flame sensor, very good for ovens and we will also do an example of that in the oven and the last one is temperature. you can toggle between the Celsius and Fahren gate by pressing this select button and if you're measuring temperatures you have to take the leads out of the meter and there's a little dial here that says temperature, you have to move it down because you can't use it. the wires of your meter and this temperature probe at the same time and then that temperature probe that I showed you earlier, you plug it in and that thing will now measure temperatures, so for example, if I measure the temperatures of my fingers, give it a few seconds like You can see that the temperature of my fingers is about 94°.

I like this temperature probe because it acts very quickly. It measures the temperature very quickly. I also work in ovens so sometimes if people say their ovens don't heat well I'll put it in there, it's heat resistant so I'll put it in there and it measures temperatures very accurately. and those are all the features that this meter has. I didn't really mention the hold button of course if you are measuring something and you press the hold button it just freezes the screen and this meter has an auto shut off feature so after a while if you leave it on the The meter will turn itself off if you put it on standby, although it will not turn off.

Also if you turn on the backlight it will only stay on for 2 minutes and then it will turn off too, but anyway that's enough with the boring stuff, let's go to the oven and do some checks, okay, so we're in the oven, but before we get to the oven, the first thing we're going to check is the DC volts, so you want to set up your meter. to the voltage symbol right there, you can press the select button and change that wave symbol to the DC symbol and we're going to check out some batteries here and see how they work, so we have a 9 volt battery here we have a double one. one 1.5 volt battery and one AA one 1.5 volt battery so let's check the 9vt first you put a wire on one end and a wire on the other and turn on the back light on my meter turn it over so you can see him.

We are getting a reading of 9.6 so this battery is very good, it has a good charge and it should be because it is a new battery. Next is double A and you can feel the wires with your fingers when you are measuring the batteries. It's not going to do any harm and it's not going to mess up the readings, so you put one wire on one end of the battery and the other wire on the other end and we get a reading of 1.6, so this is a good one too. battery because it is rated at 1.5 volts and then we have the AAA battery also rated at 1.5 volts and this one is rated at 82 so it is actually a dead battery it is not good and you can look for this on line but basically with the 9 volt battery if it drops below 8 volts that's rubbish with this one and this one they have a rating of 1.5 if they drop below one they're rubbish so you know of course how much the lower it gets the weaker it gets so 1.4 1.3 1.2 but once you get one down they are both garbage so they are DC volts and in this setup you would also check for molts.

I don't have a thermocouple or anything so I won't check for mutes, but that's also in the same settings there, so Next, if you press Select again, that will bring us back to our AC voltage, that w symbol and let's check an outlet and make sure it has 120 volts. There's a splendid outlet here that will work great so the wide prong will always be your neutral and then the narrow prong will be your heat and of course the one on the bottom is the ground now this is 120 volts and basically anything with 120 volts, you have to be careful, you definitely don't want to stick your fingers in it. there it will electrocute you so only your meter leads will touch any metal objects once you are dealing with a higher voltage than just DC or low voltage AC so I have my meter set to voltage.

I got it on the wave symbol, which means it is set. to AC current and let's connect one wire to the common or neutral and the other to the hot and as you can see I have 123 volts and just so you know it will never be exactly 120, it will go, it will be around 120, so 120 3 that is good if it has Zer volts , then maybe your ground fault or GFI has tripped or a circuit breaker has tripped somewhere and while we have my meter lead stuck in the outlet, we can also go to Herz which is the correct HZ. there and of course in America we go to 60 htz and as you can see I'm pretty much there at 59.99 and right there it changed to exactly 60 and if you have anything lower than that then you should call your electrician because something That's wrong. wrong and before we move on from AC voltage, let's just check some AC voltage on my oven.

I'm going to turn the ignition switch on and I'm actually going to go ahead and disconnect my inducer motor, so here's the plug that goes to the inducer motor. As you can see, I unplugged it and my inducer motor plug has three wires. If you only have a normal inducer motor, you will only have two or maybe there will also be ground, but mine, as you can see, has a white color which is neutral. black is a line and red is also a line. I have a two stage inducer motor so red is low speed and then black is high speed.

The inducer motor will always start at high speed and then drop to low. speed which means right now the black wire should be receiving 120 volts so if I put one wire on the white and one on the black I get 123 volts so the inducer motor is receiving voltage so for For example, if you check this, you get 123. volts but your inducer motor does not turn on, so you know your inducer motor is bad and before I plug in my inducer motor, let's check my pressure switch real quick here, so if I go from one terminal to the pressure switch to the other this is low voltage so it will be around 24 volts as you can see I have 28 volts right there and as we all know a switch will have voltage a voltage drop if the switch is open , so right now this switch is open and then when the inducer motor turns on, the pressure it creates will close this switch and when a switch is closed it will go down to 0 volts, so I'm going to go ahead and turn the switch off.

I'll connect my inducer motor. I'm going to go back in and then I'm going to run my gauge leads to the pressure switch right away and I just want you to see the voltage go from 28 to zero after the inducer motor turns on so I'm going to turn the switch back on. I already have my meter set to voltage and let's see what happens and as you saw it went from 28 to zero that means the pressure switch just closed so I turned the power off again and the next thing I want to check is the igniter so that in the sequence of operation, the inducer motor turns on in my furnace, at least the inducer motor turns on, the pressure switch closes and the next thing that happens is the igniter has to be energized so that it gets 120 volts, so if If you think your cigarette lighter is defective, for example, you can simply check voltage to see if it is receiving 120 volts, you can disconnect it like I did with the inducer motor, here is the plug that goes to the cigarette lighter and here is the one that supplies the power, you can Connect the cables to the internal connectors, do so very carefully. to not damage it, I like to just stab it from behind.

If I'm going to do that, check to see if you have 120 volts for that hot surface lighter when it's supposed to glow or you can leave it plugged in. which is what we're going to try this time, leave it plugged in and I'll just lock my meter leads on the back of this side, right here, all that, I don't know how well you can see that on camera, but I basically locked them. on the back right there and I'll turn the power back on and we'll look at our meter, we'll turn on the backlight, so as you can see, it's already at 120 volts and if we look down we can see that.

The igniter starts glowing that orange glow right there and the gas valve will energize and everything will light up and of course the same with the gas valve. Let's take out my wires while the gas valve is energized. This coil opens and lets the gas pass through. I should get 120 volts between my C which is common and my PM which is the main valve, so if I connect one wire to PM and another wire to common, as you can see I have 26 volts anyway, I'm going off by complete of this video. About troubleshooting is about how to use the meter so let's move on, this is how you check AC and DC voltages, next on that dial switch is ohms or resistance which is that inverted horseshoe symbol that is there and let's do something simple first.

Start with these light bulbs that I bought from my bathroom, one of my light bulbs conveniently burned out, so one is good and one is bad, so let's check which bulb is good and which is bad, so you put a meter of wire in it. the outside plug and the other wire on the bottom of the bulb right here and we'll turn on the tail light one more time so you can see what I'm doing so one wire on the outside, one on the bottom and we're getting 40 46 ohms and different bulbs will have different readings so I don't focus too much on what the ohm reading is.

A bad bulb will usually just be off, which means an open line which equals a bad bulb, as you can see this. the bulb here is O. So this bulb is bad and this bulb that is getting a reading is fine, back to the oven and before we check the resistance, I want to point something out when you have your meter set to ohms. symbol or resistance when you are checking resistance readings, you can't have power to that component or that load, you want to disconnect the wires and there is no live power because every meter comes with smoke built in but you don't want to release it.

If your meter starts smoking, that's bad news, so I turn off the power to my furnace and, for example, let's take an ohms reading from my inducer motor, between black and white, that's my maximum speed on the inducer motor, insert a wire in there and it doesn't matter which direction you do it, this wire here and this wire here or this here and this here are multifunction or external range on my meter so don't matter and let's see what reading I get. the high speed I get 33 ohms or let's say 35 35 ohms for the high speed and then if I measure from white to red which is my low speed we get 51 ohms the lower speed will always have a higher resistance and the most Of the time, if the inducer motor is bad, you'll see the O symbol or your reading in mm will be super high or just something totally weird, but my inducer motor is fine, so let's plug it back in and before we go beyond the ohms.

You could also check the igniter the same way with the igniter, if your igniter is bad almost always it will go out or there will be a very high reading like 400 or 500 ohms and you want to measure it at room temperature so if your igniter was just hot . your reading will be slightly different than it normally would be at room temperature so once again I put both wires into the plug that goes to my cigarette lighter and I have about 70 ohms of resistance, it's bouncing around CU. I don't have a very strong connection with my wires, there you go, it's stable now, so my igniter is 65 ohms and that's good with hot surface igniters, silicone carbide like the one I have, they should generally be below of 100 ohms, but like I said before, if it's dead or if it's a bad igniter many times it will be off and next on the list here we have continuity and measuring continuity is a lot like measuring resistance, you want to turn off the power and if you can Disconnect the cables, then you want. isolate whatever you are measuring, usually used to measure switches, not designed to measure loads, continuity should only be used on resistance readings that are below 50 ohms and will sound a tone if there is continuity and if there is not continuity then of course it's not going to sound a tone so basically if I touch both of my meters there should be continuity unless I have a broken wire inside my cable somewhere and you should hear a tone for example so the The main function of the continuity test is to make sure that a switch or whatever you are checking is a closed circuit and not off or open and just like resistance you want to make sure you have the power off and if you can disconnect the cables. at least one of them, preferably both, of whatever you're checking, so, for example, let's check my high limit switch.I will unplug both cables.

I have the power switch disconnected from the oven and will put a wire in one. terminal and the other on the other and we should hear a beep there, that means the switch is closed and a high limit switch or upper limit switch is a normally closed switch, so you should always hear a beep on that switch just there, unless your The oven is overheated and opened and let's test the pressure switch. The pressure switch, unlike the high limit switch, is a normally open switch when the inducer motor turns on and creates an induced current. The pressure switch closes and allows current to pass.

So if I unplug my wires and check my pressure switch, since it's a normally open switch, you shouldn't hear any tone and this should be off, so one wire on one terminal on top of each other, as you can see, doesn't there is no beep and my meter shows. o and of course you can also do these same measurements with the resistance settings and once again you'll get that O symbol, mainly this continuity check right here. The nice thing about this is that there is a tone, so you don't even have to do it. Watch your meter, especially if you are in a tight space, just get in there and if you hear a tone, it means the switch is closed.

If you don't hear a tone, it means it is open and is next on the list after continuity. they have microfarads or capacitance and that is usually labeled with MFD or UF or that capacitor symbol that you see and this setup is for checking capacitors so I have two capacitors as an example. I have a 5 microfarad capacitor and I have a 50 microfarad capacitor and both. of them are plus or minus 5%, which means that the most that should go from 50 or less than 50 is 5% and the same with the 5 microfarads 5% above or below 5 microfarads if the capacitor measures outside that range, that means the capacitor is defective.

So, for example, let's start with this 50 microfarad capacitor. This capacitor is 50 by 5 and it is for a condensing unit or air conditioning that is outside so we have Herm which is a compressor and fan which is for the condenser fan and of course the common so I have my meter set to microfarads right there and let's check this capacitor, so I put one wire into common and one into Herm or compressor and you should have about 50 microfarads of this capacitor. it's pretty much getting a charge from the meter so give it up to 10 15 seconds and you should see a reading from the capacitor so you can see mine is reading 52.3 microfarads so if you add 5% to 50 that will be I think 52.5 so so this capacitor is within the range and good to use.

This is a good capacitor. Now let's try this type, which is a 5 microf capacitor. This is just a single capacitor. This is usually used for blower motors in furnaces, so no. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal basically one is common one is the fan put both wires in and let's see what we get as a reading and we get 2.7 microfarads which means this capacitor is out of range which means It's garbage and the next. Up top we have Micro Amperes which is basically zo backwards and an A so DC Micro Amperes and this is usually used to measure the flame signal current in a flame sensor so let's go ahead and do that and a easy way to do it if you have these The alligator clips are to put one of them on one of the wires, disconnect the flame sensor which on my oven is right down here.

I'll put my alligator wire on the flame sensor terminal here that way I don't have to hold my lead meter. The wire that I have there and the other wire I will glue on the wire of that connector that I took off the flame sensor and I like to glue it between the connector and that piece of plastic so as not to damage the connector at all so put it there like this and not even I have to hold it, just make sure it doesn't touch anything metal so it doesn't short out. I'll put mine here so basically what I did was I put my meter in series with that flame sensor so let's turn my oven back on and wait a little bit basically when my burners come on and there's flames we'll see a signal DC micro amperage or current that should appear on my meter for my cigarette lighter to be on.

Right now the burner is on, as you can see I'm getting 2.6 microamps, which is actually a little low and means I need to take out the flame sensor and clean it, and I know that on my oven the microamp reading of the flame sensor It's not that high to begin with, some ovens can go up to 10 microamps but mine only goes up to 3 and 1/2 or four when the flame sensor is new so I'm not too worried about it but usually when clean. a flame sensor that is very dirty you will see a big difference in that microamp reading and while we are talking about amps, it was DC microamps that we just measured, if you go back to the voltage, this top display is where the amperage clamp adapter is, it's a dual display so the bottom as I mentioned above is whatever you have set up and the top will always be for the amplifier clamp so let's just measure the amperage draw of my inducer motor right here clamp it to the wire black which is the high speed that's where the inducer motor starts and I'm going to change it from automatic to manual range so it's more sensitive.

Put the decimal point in there and this is also a good opportunity to check my input current or maximum peak, so I'll set it to Max that way I'll record what the maximum amperage draw of this inducer motor is because on all motors, Every time they start, they draw many more amps than while they are running, so let's turn on the heater and see what we do. As you saw, the cranking amperage was 1.4 amps and now my inducer motor switched to low fire, which is this red wire. Let's clear that up and check the run time amperage of my low stage inducer motor, as you can see, we are.

By getting a reading of 36 amps, we could also check the amp draw of the gas valve coil, so I'll just put it on the gas valve common wire. The gas valve coil is drawing 31 amps, this is how the amp draw is measured and the Another feature is the hold button, so for example if for some reason I wanted to save the reading I'm getting on the inducer motor per se, let's say I want to show the customer that the amperage draw is too high and the motor is starting to run. come out I could get a reading so as you see it's 34 amps all I have to do is just press the hold button and that holds whatever reading I was getting so I can go up and show whoever I was getting a draw 34 amps in inductor mode and the last one on the list is the FN C temperature and to put the temper probe in you have to disconnect the wires from the meter and change this little switch to Temp, that's because you can't use the meter wires and this thing. at the same time you connect the temperature probe and since my heater was running this exhaust pipe should be very hot let's see a live reading of what it is so if I touch this wire to the exhaust pipe we see which is at about 150° and going up 160 162 and of course it would be a better connection if I really pressed it, but that would burn my finger so I'm not going to do that, but that's how you use a temperature probe, It's pretty much the same as using a Pok in thermometer except this one is connected to your meter and last but not least we have the non-contact voltage or I just call it a voltage pen because that's pretty much it.

What you are doing. just press this button and hold it and you can check which wires have voltage or current and this works for both low voltage and high voltage so for example we should have voltage on these pressure switches so if I press it and I hold it down. You should hear a little rattling coming from the meter which means there is voltage present or like on my inductor motor for example there is also voltage present there and you can also check outlets like that guys and that's all I need to know. had for this video on how. how to use a multimeter I hope you found this video helpful and that you got some good tips.

If I missed any features of this meter that you know about, please let us know in the comments below just to help everyone else out or if I didn't. I'm not explaining something well, please also correct me in the comments below anyway. I hope you found this video useful. Thank you very much for watching. Don't forget to hit the like button on your way out and we'll see you next time. and for those of you who watch the video until the end, thank you. By the way, I have a brain puzzle for you. This puzzle is not as easy as it looks and it took me about four tries to get it done every time.

I was sure I had the right answer, but I was wrong every time, so if you don't get it on the first try, don't be mad, it's natural, but let me know what you think the answer is in the comments below and I'll let you know. To know if you got the right answer or not or if you like spoilers, you can always check the comments and see if anyone already has the right answer, but anyway here's the riddle. I'll leave it on the screen. about a minute if you need more time just pause the video good luck you have to feel you feel you know you know